Francesco Carrozzini is the kind of travel companion you want when visiting Milan. Aside from the fact that his mom is Italian Vogue’s editor-in-chief Franca Sozzani (which means he has primo fashion pull, if he cared to use it), the 23-year-old filmmaker, who studied philosophy at the Università degli Studi, knows all the hidden nooks of his native city that you won’t find listed in any travel book.

What intrigues him about Milan – the blending of classicism and cutting-edge – is evident in his sought-after artwork. Last year, Carrozzini received the honor of being chosen as the “upcoming artist” to exhibit his ecclesiastical “Last Words” video installation alongside the work of Bill Viola and Mark Wallinger at the Duomo, in Milan.

Now a New York resident, Carrozzini is still privy to Milan’s hippest spots – many of which aren’t the usual fashion haunts during the show seasons. Apparently, if you really want to find an edgier scene, you’ve got to head out towards the canals to an old section called Navigli.

“It’s like going to Harlem,” he explains. “It’s much more interesting there. The problem with Milan is that it’s all becoming so trendy and high-tech, which is not us – it’s something we’re copying from the Americans. Navigli is much more traditional and full of young kids and artists.”

“I don’t go to trendy restaurants,” he adds, referring no doubt to places like Da Giacomo and Le Langue, two ultra-chic restaurants that suck in fashion editors like a four-inch-wide Yves Saint Laurent belt: “The food isn’t very good.” Instead, he heads out to the canals to a place oddly called Jamaica Pub. It’s a low-key brasserie with little tables and no jerk chicken to speak of. “I think the only thing that’s Jamaican about it is that everyone there smokes weed,” he explains with a laugh.

As for going out, he’s still a big fan of Hollywood Club. “After 17 years, it’s still where everyone goes -- all the rock stars, George Clooney…It’s underground, literally -- in the storage, or how do you call it? The basement.”

But even better is Magazini Generali. “It’s much more underground, and gay -- which means better music. They get bands and DJs from all over – Ibiza, London…It’s really fun. Very wild and fashiony.”

During the day, he often checks out Spazio Anteo, which doubles as both a cinema and a bookstore. “It’s full of film-makers and intellectuals. It’s really an interesting environment – more artistic, less fashiony.” And he’s no stranger to his aunt, Carla Sozzani’s immensely chic bazaar 10 Corso Como. Despite all the avant-garde people and goods on display, “it’s still so relaxed,” he explains. “There really no place in Milan quite like it to just chill. You browse a little and sit and have tea, or come later in the evening and have a drink.”

When it comes to shopping, though, Carrozzini is all about the flea market called Fiera di Senigallia. “You get the best things there – beautiful vintage clothes, dead-stock jeans, books. I’m there pretty much every weekend.”

~Karin Nelson

Get Yours:

Jamaica Pub, via Milano 37, (338) 374-7981, jamaicapub.it

Hollywood Club, Corso Como 15, +39 026598996, discotecahollywood.com

Magazini Generali, via Santa Teresa 16

Spazio Anteo, via Milazzo, +39 026597732, anteospaziocinema.com

10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, +39 0229002674, 10corsocomo.com

Fiera di Senigallia takes place along the Darsena basin on Saturdays

‘On Set' photo by Walter Chin
‘Last Words’ courtesy of Galleria Cardi