Awhile back, jeans got treated like what they were – workwear: Tossed in the wash when they were dirty, thrown in the dryer when wet. You paid them about as much care and attention as those beat-up boots you wore them with. Nowadays, jeans freaks are called denim connoisseurs, and aging a raw selvedge pair has escalated into an art form.



Here are some tips to master it:

Breaking Them In:
“There’s the old rocker trick: smoke cigarettes and rub the ashes on the jeans, then run your hand through your hair and rub the grease on too. I’m not crazy about the smell. But the look is perfect – that’s how A.P.C jeans should be worn.” – A.P.C founder/designer Jean Touitou

“Use a spray bottle with water in it. By continually spraying down your jeans, they'll start to mold to your body; and natural creases, folds, and areas of stress will start to break in. Wear as often as possible without washing to achieve the most authentic vintage appearance. With commitment, these jeans will become your favorite.” - Scott Morrison, co-founder/designer of Earnest Sewn

Stiffening Them Back Up:
“After you wash your jeans – and while they’re still wet – spray starch on them. You can either lay them on a table and do it, or put them on -- depending on how hardcore you are. Rub the starch in, and let them air dry, and it’ll give your jeans that rigidity that you loved about them when they were new.” – Richard Cadet, owner of Famous Friends

Washing Them:
“If you can, do not wash your jeans...wear them ‘til they’re stanky. Then, you can either rub a dryer sheet on them or spray Febreze. But, if you must wash your jeans -- and, no more than once a month if you can help it -- do it either by hand, or machine wash them inside-out in cold water with mild detergent. Some people suggest dry-cleaning jeans to keep them new-looking, but I find the chemicals change the indigo. True jeans aficionados would never dry-clean their jeans. They know better. I personally do the I Love Lucy wash in the tub, like I’m stomping on grapes....And never put them in the dryer. Let them hang to dry.” - Christine Rucci, co-founder/designer of 5EP

“I never wash my jeans ... so not much help here.” – Scott Morrison

"I don't wash my own jeans. I always start with a pair of raw denim and wear them down to what looks ‘washed’ naturally. A washing machine removes the top layer of indigo and speeds an aging process that I do through normal wear over 2-3 years. I have known denim aficionados in Japan to stuff their jean pockets with dryer sheets overnight to absorb odor.” - Donwan Harrell, owner/designer, Prps

“If you have a garden, hang them outside for two days to clear them out.” – Richard Cadet

Shrinking Them:
“You can try the old ‘sit in the tub’ method [which entails sitting in a cold bath while wearing them], or wash them in warm or hot water. And, as a last resort, the dryer works....” – Christine Rucci

Storing Them:
“I would ideally store them by hanging them from the locker loop on each pair of Earnest Sewn’s. If you don't have a locker loop on your jeans, then hang them by a belt loop or two.” – Scott Morrison

“I stack them by color and fit, and hang them on a hook at home. Keep them out of sunlight, or they will fade...Really rare pieces are stored in plastic containers in our denim archives at the 5EP warehouse.” – Christine Rucci

“I never fold them -- I hold them up and let them drop into a little pile on the floor.” – Emmett Harrell, creative director, Prps

Get Yours:

A.P.C, $160, apc.fr

Earnest Sewn, $198, earnestsewn.com

5EP, $240-$300, for store info, denimafia.com

Prps unwashed jeans, $260, bergdorfgoodman.com

Famous Friends, famousfriendsnyc.com