For as long as any New York nightlifer can remember, Jauretsi Saizarbotoria has been throwing the coolest parties in town, with the most flavorful music to dance to. But that would be expected of the Cuban-American Miami native, who grew up hanging around her family’s restaurant, Centro Vasco, where just about every legendary Cuban exile performed. “Celia Cruz, Cachao, Albita – they all played there. I was raised around music.”

After the restaurant shut its Miami doors in ’97, Jauretsi -- as she’s simply known -- took a pilgrimage to Cuba; and what she found there was unlike anything she’d ever heard: an underground hip-hop scene that had formed in the eastern outskirts of Havana, and was only recently legalized.

“The officials didn’t understand it – they thought it was protesting. If you were caught rapping, you were arrested.”

“There’s a brilliant youth culture happening down there that’s not covered in the news. Everybody talks about Cuba’s past – no one talks about its future.” So, with hopes of opening a dialogue on just that, Jauretsi headed back down to Cuba in summer 2004 with a couple of film cameras and the U.S. government’s approval. East of Havana, her awe-inspiring documentary, produced by Charlize Theron and co-directed by Emilia Menocal, premieres March 14th at the South by Southwest festival in Austin, and will hit theatres this summer.

Meanwhile, here’s a tour of Jauretsi’s favorite spots in Havana. In her own words:

The Malecon Wall
The Malecon is one of the most revered places to sit in this world (and the most photographed in Cuba). It’s where authors wrote their first novel, and where couples had their first kiss. In comparison to Miami, it’s the big ol’ Ocean Drive of Havana, minus the annoying traffic and neon lights. The breeze by the Malecon is one of those things you just have to experience for yourself. If you go to Cuba, grab a bottle of rum day or night, and go sit on the wall for a good talk.

Infanta
Infanta is a very long picturesque street, off the beaten path away from tourists. At #202, there is a gentleman outside who physically resembles a Cuban Hunter S. Thompson. There are usually 10-20 pieces of albums leaning on the floor beside him. Ask this man where the rest of his records are, and he’ll walk you into a secret vault of endless vinyl to buy at your disposal. A true diggers’ paradise. (Note: he has a sick Beny More collection.)

The Alamar Amphitheater
Located 30 minutes outside Havana, the neighborhood of Alamar is best known as the home of hip-hop in Cuba. Its reputation stems from hosting the first rap shows on the island. The amphitheater is a tough, cement-blocked, outdoor venue with Greek theater seating. All of Cuba's seminal bands had their start here, including the Grammy-winning Orishas. Mos Def played in this theater on his visit to Cuba and said he felt like he was in the last scene in Wild Style. Need I say more?

The Bay of Cojimar
This is a little, humble town nestled between Havana and Alamar. Cojimar has a special fishing tradition, and was the place where Ernest Hemingway fished endlessly. The Bay of Cojimar is what he referred to as "the big blue river" in The Old Man and the Sea. East of Havana's main protagonist, Soandry, is from Cojimar.

Centro Vasco
My trips to Cuba would not be complete without visiting my family's restaurant, which had its heyday in the ‘50s. The government owns it now. The walls practically speak to me and hug me when I walk in the room. My grandfather’s Basque energy lingers strong. There are still two employees left who worked with my family pre-revolution, whom I love to catch up with. Centro Vasco is one of my main stops in Havana, and reconnects me to myself all over again. It's my soul's ground zero.

Habana Riviera Hotel
The view of the hotel can be seen in the famous film, Soy Cuba, in the long crane shot. It’s a classic hotel with lots of old-school casino vibes. Back in the pre-revolution era under Batista, Habana Riviera was run by Meyer Lansky and his gangster posse in their days of gambling and mob rule. It is simply one of the most beautiful buildings and elegant hotels. I hope to see it restored to its true glory one day, and not turn into some cheesy Vegas hotel.

Check It Out:

For more info on the film East of Havana, as well as its accompanied book, check out www.eastofhavana.com

South by Southwest runs March 10 –19. For more information and event scheduling, www.sxsw.com

How does one get to Cuba? According to Jauretsi: “If you're from anywhere other than America, google Cubana Airlines. If you’re from the US, prepare to jump through hoops with the US government; America is the only country that embargos travel to Cuba. So, you’ll need Mr. Bush's permission to visit. If you sneak through Mexico, prepare to get fined $10,000. But you can always apply to the State Department for humanitarian, educational, or journalistic reasons. Go to Marazul Airlines’ website (www.marazulcharters.com), and check out the rules and regulations. Flights are roughly $200-300.”

For more on Jauretsi, www.jauretsi.com

Second and Third Photos courtesy of Jason Florio, www.floriophoto.com