My Town: Berlin
Head Non-Stop On Uslu Airlines
With the launch of their airbrush-makeup line called “Uslu Airlines” in fall 2003, Turkish makeup artist Feride Uslu and her German husband Jan Mihm became the Black & Decker of the beauty industry. Instantly, women around the world became masters of their facial domain: evenly misting foundation, blush, and eye shadow like true artisans, wielding the pen-like power tool and attached micro-compressor like pros. The How-To videos accompanying the contraption (which is called the “air(o)pak”) at boutiques like Colette and 10 Corso Como, show novices like Chloe Sevigny and model Christina Kruse becoming insta-experts. And, for roughly the price of a flight from New York to Europe, anyone can get one.
A couple years ago, Uslu and Mihm, and their two young kids, took their own international flight, relocating from New York to Berlin. Here, the two of them take us on a high-flying tour of their new hometown, from its obscure back-alley art parties to the best burger joint in Deutschland. In their own words:
1. The Uslu Airlines 'Kantine' (canteen) in Berlin is Imbiss International, Rosenthaler Platz. It’s right downstairs from our penthouse showroom in Berlin Mitte. You will fall straight into it when you exit the U-Bahn. Turabi Abi, the owner, is the nicest guy you can think of (see the hairdo!), and his wife prepares the best Börek in town, rolled right in front of you with paper-thin dough. We recommend spinach with cheese, combined with a glass of cay or ayran. But the most noteworthy is the selection of alcohol and pork-based dishes that this Turkish restaurateur offers. It’s not common at all for Turks to serve these kinds of dishes in their restaurants. So, in that sense, it’s truly international.
2. The best cheeseburger east of Manhattan is at Kreuzburger, Oranienstrasse 192, in the middle of Kreuzberg 36. Fresh ground organic beef, onion slices as thin as paper, a chef with passion, open till dawn, and prices lower than McD’s (even with the colored glass chandeliers!). It sounds like a dream, but we’re telling the truth. We thought there would be no more burgers for us when we moved to Berlin after 10 years in NYC. It took us a year to find these guys... 100% approved!
2.b Just a block away at Kottbusser Tor is 'Izmir Köfte', serving the Osman equivalent to the burger. Actually better. And directly next to it is one of those betting places that have become more and more popular in the city. Like an OTB, but more civilized -- you can bet on soccer. For better or worse, Izmir Köfte does NOT have a loo, you can freely piss here.
3. An honest Berlin bar/lounge with a decent tune at any night is Avastar at Nostitzstr. 12 in Kreuzberg 61. Yes, we admit, one of the biggest advantages of this place to us personally is the proximity to our bed -- only 2 blocks west. And we also admit that they must improve on their beer selection. But the heck with those details, it's Uslu Airlines' favorite hangout after 11pm. So take it or leave it.
4. Mulackstrasse in Mitte is great from start to end. Don't worry, it’s not such a long street. There is LaMu boutique at #34, an upscale vintage shop featuring New York icons like AsFour next to French monastery tables. Right next door is a stylish but relaxed noodle kitchen (Italian). A few steps west is a noodle kitchen (Asian). Right across is one of those very green and charming typical German playgrounds. Take your kids or just take a picnic (noodles?). Also in the hood are SchwarzHogerzeil, Starstyling, Bless, and Rugstar designer carpets right across the way. But the best part – although it rarely happens and is the hardest place to get in – is this former empty lot-turned-paradise garden with occasional BBQs, wine tastings, vernissages, screenings, or performances. It’s curated by our good old friend Yasmine Gauster, and it’s not found in any mag or guide. Being the self-made woman that she is, Yasmine often publishes her own guides and maps just to be sure that it's right. We love that! And we are lucky enough to always get invited. We personally care more about the BBQs. However, Yasmine and her family are to be credited for the introduction of beer to the Berlin/global art world, so we enjoy the vernissages, too. In a world that serves nothing but white wine (uurrgghhhh!) for decades, Alex and Yasmine brought in the Beck's and turned every artsy fartsy event at NEU into a hooligan party. Well done!
5. The before-mentioned NEU gallery in Mitte. Hannoversche Strasse, Mitte. Expensive Art. Great crew. Endless beer during the vernissages.
6. Gastätte St. Oberholz, Rosenthaler Platz, Mitte. This one is the best. For many reasons: free unlimited WLAN attracts all those cute mid 20s bums (male/female/else) with their good-looking iBooks. So, even if you show up without your surfboard, you will be ready to ride. Freely read the latest magazines, global and local, even topshelf items like HekMag or Carl's Cars! Open from early morning for coffee to very late after-midnight for drinks. Perfect location – it’s walking distance to many clubs. The food seems good too, but we never tried it -- too healthy (looking) for our taste. We prefer some greasy curry wurst from International right across the intersection. (See #1). Oberholz also hosts the bi-monthly 'midweek/midnight' opening party for every new video screened on our tower window. (See photo with beer glass: the night screen is the big curved window on top of the red building. The best seats to watch from are the newly installed tennis court referee high chairs.) Wonderful. At night it really looks good.
7. Borchardt's. Often cited in every Berlin guide for their Wiener Schnitzel. For us it's more about the oysters and (again) beer. Served by *the* most friendly staff in Europe. Only the New York staff seems as friendly. But as we know, they fake it for the tip… Here it's real. Go at a non rush-hour time, like 3pm on a weekday. Otherwise the place is packed and fully overbooked well in advance. The staff is still as friendly as always then, and the oysters cold; but not for you, as you won't get in.
8. Family special: while you shop Mulackstrasse (4), let your kids run wild at a somewhat different public playground corner of Steinstrasse/Rosenthalerstrasse. Here, the concept is decidedly DANGEROUS. Kids are encouraged to hammer rusty nails into (stolen?) construction site boards to build treehouses that would make any NYC liability Scheister jubilate. But, not here. Here it's all fun and never a lawsuit, even if your thumb blows up. This place is free in all senses. Expect some full frontal nudity when temperatures permit. So, my friend, are you brave enough to drop your kids there? They might never wanna go back to the States. If that's the case, enroll them at ABC Sprachclub für Kinder on Mulackstrasse (4).
Go There:
For more info on Uslu Airlines, and to buy the products: usluairlines.com
For more on Feride Uslu, ferideuslu.com
