It took Jahream, Yuji Fukushima, and Gordon Heffner a year and a half to open Blue In Green, their much-anticipated men’s lifestyle shop. That was the time it took them to scour Japan for the most sought-after denim and streetwear labels yet to hit America.

“Everything in here is exclusive to us,” says Jahream, the single-monikered marketing partner. “It’s either made exclusively for us, or sold exclusively to us.” Consequently, since they opened on SoHo’s Greene Street six weeks ago, they’ve had a steady stream of denim freaks looking to finally lay hands on the brands getting big buzz on message-boards. Labels like Sugar Cane, Samurai, Pure Blue, Oni, John Bull, Studio D’Artisan, and Warehouse -- and that’s just for starters. Blue In Green (named for a Miles Davis song) also stocks a well-edited selection of jewelry, sneakers, and art; as well as sportswear from American designers like Telfar and Oliver Helden, and odd collectibles like YSL and Vivienne Westwood washcloths, imported from Japan.

But it was the denim that had us drooling. Like the pair of Samurai 5000’s made from a 17-oz denim so stiff the jeans could stand up by themselves. No joke - check the photo. “These, you’ll pass onto your grandchildren,” says Jahream. (The 24-ouncers are arriving for winter.)

We asked the guys to come up with their favorites. Here, their Top 5: 

Sugar Cane Edo AI:
“Sugar Cane is one of the most reputable and quality-driven denim companies in the world. After World War II, the shortage of cotton forced fabric manufacturers to find ways to substitute the resource. Sugar Cane devised a method of making thread using sugar cane extract interwoven with cotton to create an equally durable fabric. They then started designing dungarees from the innovative fabric. [Ed. Note: Take a sniff of the denim, and there’s a hint of sweetness]. Each Sugar Cane dungaree is cut and sewn together by highly skilled craftsmen from Japan and USA, respectively -- all with strict standards of quality and homage to the old-school techniques of garment-making. All Sugar Cane dungarees are dyed using genuine indigo using a rope-dyeing technique, which involves dyeing the thread strands prior to weaving. The Edo AI is actually made of 10% natural indigo, a more pure indigo, and 90% genuine indigo -- hence the green color. This style is dyed using the same techniques used during Edo-era Japan (1603-1867), making it that much more unique. They have a printed front-pocket lining and back pockets hand-sewn with sugar cane thread.” 

Warehouse 1950 Duckdigger
“The Warehouse Company is another brand at the top of many denim connoisseurs’ lists. What sets it apart from others is the extent to which they ensure faithful emulations of pre-1900 designs and manufacturing techniques. For example, on their 1800 models, which represent a style that was created before the invention of the rivet, they do what the norm for that time was, and make several stitching patterns to act as reinforcement. All Warehouse Jeans are essentially hand-made, in that care is taken to preserve the old style of sewing, which does not incorporate modern time-saving techniques. Instead, double rows of stitching are sewn one-at-a-time. All Warehouse jeans are rope-dyed using genuine indigo. And all button-holes are hand-sewn, which for a raw denim jean is an incredible detail and unique to this brand.”

Samurai S5000VX
“The name hints at what to expect from this denim company out of Osaka, Japan. Samurai Jeans pride themselves in making some of the heaviest and toughest denim on the market with an added sense of quality and detail that is expected from a Japanese denim company. The majority of their models weigh in at 17 ounces -- an average pair of jeans sold in the US is anywhere between 10 to 13.5 ounces. These jeans will put any tough guy to the test to break them in. We have a photo showing a pair of Samurai jeans after one wash standing on their own. Due to the rigidity and weight of the material, once faded the results are amazing with hues of deep dark blue contrasting with the natural white of the cotton beneath.  All Samurai jeans are genuine indigo and made in Japan. Details include brand-stamped rivets, logo pocket lining, and their trademark silver selvage, meant to represent the samurai sword. Live by the sword selvage!”

Oni Denim Blue
“Most denim is woven using a two-shuttle loom process, giving the material a balanced weave, both vertically and horizontally. By contrast, Oni’s denim is woven using only one shuttle loom, which yields a unique, uneven, slubby texture, reminiscent of hand-woven denim. Apparently, several attempts were made on several machines, and all failed, except one; and that's the only one used for Oni Denim jeans.”

Pure Blue
“Pure Blue Japan has found their niche in the Japanese denim market with their painstaking indigo-dyeing techniques – hence, their name. Their jeans have plain back pockets, free of any stitching. The idea is to draw attention away from the detailing and towards the quality and workmanship. Two things that make this particular model unique is the dye -- 100% natural indigo. And the weaving process – it’s tightly woven to produce a super-slubby texture.”

Get Them:

Sugar Cane, Edo AI, $315

Warehouse 1950 Duckdigger, $235

Samurai Jeans, S5000VX, $285

Oni Denim Blue, $255

Pure Blue Japan, AI-001, $500

All styles available at Blue In Green, 8 Greene St., NYC, (212) 680-0555; blueingreensoho.com