Leaders of the contemporary-art pack have long been recognized for their jetsetting tendencies – traveling the world in search of cutting-edge exhibitions and innovative installations.  Cuban-born contemporary art dealer, Javier Peres, who heads Peres Projects, a cutting-edge gallery with outposts in LA and Berlin, is no exception.  

It may be Peres’ affinity for outsider art: he represents young stars including Terence Koh (formerly Asianpunkboy) and Dan Colen.  Or his nonstop travel schedule: his time is primarily split between Chinatown and Kreuzberg.  In any given week, Peres, who has lived all over Europe, may traverse anywhere from 300 to 32,000 miles.  And last month, The Guardian named the 31-year-old, who has been collecting art since the age of 13, the 59^th most influential figure in the contemporary-art world (one spot behind Frank Gehry). 

Regardless, Peres ranks Norway – a country long recognized for producing revolutionary playwrights and painters, like Henrik Ibsen and Edvard Munch, and birthing the Scandinavian black-metal scene in the ‘80s – at the top of his list of enchanting destinations.

Upon learning Peres’ soft spot for Oslo, Norway’s capital, psychoPEDIA caught up with habitually handlebar-mustached Peres (near Sunset Blvd.) via telephone.  In the midst of furnishing his new Chinatown office, Peres divulged a few of his favorite Scandinavian spots:

What is your primary attraction to Scandinavia?
The first time I went was 2 years ago for Dan Colen’s exhibition there, Fantastic Politics.  Now I go 3 to 4 times a year.  The main reason is that I have a big Scandinavian fetish.  I like blonde, red-haired freckled guys.  And Norway has the best specimens.  It has some of the most beautiful people. 

And how would you describe Norwegians as a whole?
Norwegians are amazing, generous people.  It’s the Texas of Europe.  There’s tons of oil money.  It’s super-Christian and super-fucked-up. 

So you must have some familiar faces in Oslo that you visit…
Yeah, Gardar Eide Einarsson, an artist with Team Gallery in New York, [who lives and works in Oslo], is a friend, and I developed a network of friends through him.

A friend of mine there, Erling Kagge, is the first man to have gone on unmanned missions to the South Pole.  He’s the most important living treasure.  He owns an important [eponymous] publishing house. 

What is Oslo’s contemporary art scene like today?
Scandinavia had its heyday in the ‘90s.  But it’s become a lot more interesting since then.  The Norwegian government heavily funds the contemporary art scene, then these artists turn around and create works that criticize the government.  It’s pretty amazing. 

Any museums or galleries that are a must-see?
The Astrup Fearnley Museet for Moderne Kunst.  It’s owned and operated privately by Hans-Jakob Brun.  It has one of the finest contemporary-art collections.  I just saw Black and White there, an exhibit of Charles Ray’s work.  He’s an LA artist, but there is more Charles Ray in Oslo than in LA. 

I also always check out Standard, and a few others whose names I could not tell you right now.  Norwegians’ names are particularly crazy.  Everyone speaks English there.  They speak English better than we do.  

Any experiences you can only have in Oslo?
There are two truly amazing places.  One is Gustav Vigeland in the Vigeland Park.  It’s this giant sculpture garden with social-realist Nazi-style architecture.  This one man convinced the government to allow him to put hundreds of his sculptures in the park.  It’s one man’s vision of sculpture.  It’s bizarre but really beautiful. 

All the parks are very unique, Viking in style - lots of abstract geometry, very tough-looking.  

And the other?
The Viking Ship Museum.  It’s so spectacular.  It’s shaped like a crucifix.  There are four extremities and three of them are these ships that were used by the Vikings.  In the center of each ship they built a small shack where they’d bury high-ranking officials.  There are two men and a woman.  A young girl, probably her servant, was buried with the woman.  

So the young girl was buried alive?
Yep.  They have these stairs set up so that you can see inside.  And they have all of these relics of Viking culture.  It’s amazing. 

Any favorite shops for imitation relics or local designs?
It’s funny you should ask that.  I was there with Dan Colen and Dash Show.  And Dash wanted to get some Viking handcuffs but we couldn’t find anything.  I’m telling you it’s so expensive to shop there.  I mean a beer is like $20.  Oslo is more expensive than London.

Best places to sleep/eat in Oslo?
The most interesting hotel is Hotel Continental.  It’s the oldest continuously-owned family hotel.  It’s across the street from the Nationaltheatret and it is attached to the Theatercafeen.  It’s very belle époque – turn-of-the-century.  Norwegian society has been going there before and after the theatre [since 1899].  One time I had reindeer. It was grilled and served with a wild berry and mushroom reduction.  It was so good.  Its meat is really tender, flavorful - not funky.  The reindeer come from the very north of Norway.  A friend of mine had stag.  It was very good.  I’m a bit of a foodie.  I had Icelandic mussels.  And my friend has this Swedish caviar.  It was this hot, orange, crazy caviar.

Norway is a bit bougie.  And if you want great but expensive sushi, go to Alex Sushi. 

Is the death-metal influence very visible?
It’s a bit sketchy - the whole death-metal thing.  I don’t even feel comfortable commenting on it.  Some of those guys are in jail now.  I’m friends with them.  A lot of them work as DJs and in nightclubs on the side. 

What about the nightlife? (To note: in the winter the sun sets near 3pm.)
You really have to know somebody there to know where to go.  They also have strict guidelines on alcohol.  I was with this friend of mine at a bar across from the hotel and she asked for a double.  The bartender told her he couldn’t serve her a double, so she ordered a second shot on the side.  He told her if he saw her pour the second shot into her drink he’d have to kick her out. 

And the names of your favorite bars?
I really can’t remember them… I was too wasted.

~Alisa Gould-Simon

For budget travelers and barflies, psychoPEDIA recommends:

Laksen Pub & Rest, Maridalsveien 188, for cheap eats.  In addition to different fish and meat, they serve crocodile and bear.

Bar 1, Holmens Gate 3, Aker Brygge, Oslo, 0250 22 83 00 02, or Amsterdam Café, Universitetsgata11, Oslo, 0164 22 20 26 55, for drinks.

Café Mono for local music.

See It:
Peres Projects, 969 Chung King Road, LA, (213) 617-1100, and Schlesische Str. 26, Berlin, +49 30 6162 6962, www.peresprojects.com