psychoPEDIA: Daily News

Douglas Michael came to the East Village from Pittsburgh—but the city whose claim to fame was being named “Most Livable” in, oh, 1985, wasn’t exactly a mecca for designer denim. So Michael headed east to run wholesale for Helmut Lang until, well, we know the end of that story. But before the imminent closing, Michael scored a slew of classic jeans in every style and color, while honing his denim expertise. Surprisingly, his ultimate favorite pair of jeans is not Helmut at all. Instead, they’re a dark pair of multi-tasking raw denim, made by the Swedish line, Filippa K. You can find Filippa K at Underdog East, his cozy, unassuming retail space that caters to other well-dressed Burgh-and-burb escapees.

Located in the heart of the Easr Village, a discerning downtown gentleman can stock up on quirky boxers by Unfed, cufflinks from Anglomania, and of course, plenty of jeans. Current offerings include styles from 5EP, Salvage, Rag & Bone and the occasional pair of Wendy’s (as in Built by Wendy) Wranglers. T-County dress shirts line the racks, as do vintage pony military bags and homemade scarves made with love by Michael’s mom. But denim is really Michael’s thing, and he was kind enough to feature his favorite pair today to tell us why they’re so damn great.

So, Douglas, what’s your signature pair?
These are called M. Ryan by Filippa K – dark, raw denim. A lucky sample sale find in NY since I’m a 33 and their samples are 33s.

Lucky you. Are these lucky jeans or moneymaking jeans?
Well, I did buy them at a sample sale, which I suppose is lucky, and that sort of makes me money by saving it.

Makes sense to me. And the best part about them?
The fit. Somewhat skinny but not. I’m not into skinny jeans but this pair is a happy medium between straight-leg and skinny. Plus, I am always a fan of raw denim. These are nice because they look dressy and wear well for a couple weeks before I have to deal and wash them. Oh, and I also like that there aren’t any visible labels—nothing that screams what jean it is. It’s a very non-descript, clean jean. Helmut would approve.

So you and Helmut would disapprove of…
Jeans that are overly manufactured, anything with whiskers, crazy stitching or lame labels/ And I hate jeans that look ripped but like they were then stitched back together. That’s not cute.

OK, so break down your denim essentials:
Fit. Fabric. Color. In that order. Always.

And where do you source new denim?
Want Agency. They’re the wholesale agency who rep Nudie, Acne and Fillipa K. All Swedes. And I gotta say the Levi’s store. Oh, and Schiller’s.

Do your all-time favorite jeans have any non-redeeming qualities?
Well, OK, these retail at $325, not redeeming. But they work hard, day-to-night, and I believe you should spend money on jeans. Nothing else.

Not even sneakers?
I wear Converse. Converse are cheap.

True. What was the last all-nighter you pulled in your Filippa K’s?
Last week, and they held up great. It was a late night at Fish Bar. I ended up DJing for them. I even played Motown. Feel-good drinking music. Al Green’s “I’m Still in Love with You,” Dusty Springfield’s “Spooky…”