psychoPEDIA: Daily News

January 30, 2007

It’s All In the Details
Best-in-Show at ‘Project’

Just last week, denim (and denim-friendly-accessory) aficionados gathered en masse at Manhattan’s Pier 40 for the Project trade show, in order to ogle the latest from a select group of international exhibitors.  While the pickings were far from slim – the number of booths ranked in the hundreds – finding even a handful of truly innovative, flattering jeans was a feat.

Yet, determined to lift ourselves above the dull, skinny-leg-dominated denim world, we embarked on the near-impossible.  Fortunately, our prowess paid off, and psychoPEDIA prevailed.  See below for our favorite finds:

ProportionofBlu Golden Ratio Jeans ($220-$450)
This LA-based brand, launched just last year, is offering some of the most refreshing takes on denim we’ve seen.  Designed by Terrell Wick, alum of both San Francisco’s Academy of Art College and Studio Bercot, ProportionofBlu’s latest line is inspired by the Golden Ratio.  Yes, we’re talking the ratio birthed by Greek philosopher Euclid 2000 years ago (expressed mathematically as 1:1.618).  While we still don’t quite understand how the proportion (said to be present in countless great works of art including the Egyptian pyramids, DaVinci’s Mona Lisa, and even our own double helixes) translates into denim, sliding on a pair of Wick’s understatedly stylish jeans (in one of four styles and four washes) will generate the only realization you need: They epitomize effortless elegance.

April 77 Munich Jean (Price TBA)
‘Death Melody,’ the latest line from Brice Partouche’s Parisian-based rockabilly/punk rock-infused brand April 77, is not to be missed.  And our favorite from the infinitely covetable collection is the Munich jean – “where pant meets jean,” says Damiano Dall’Avese, brand manager for the US.  Washed in grey, with tuxedo piping down the outside seam -- not to mention a looser fit around the waist and thigh -- these may be just the perfect skinny jean or basic five-pocket alternative.  And don’t forget (since we can’t seem to), all April 77 jeans and jackets come complete with their own desirable accessory (a guitar pick and comb, respectively).  Join the ranks of famous rocker fans including Rolling Stone’s Ron Wood, Iggy Pop, the Horrors and the Klaxons

Edun Champ Jean ($210)
This spring sees the second birthday of Bono and wife Ali Hewson’s eco-friendly, socially-conscious clothing company, Edun.  And, just in time, the company’s launching its own take on the trouser-meets-jean, well worth a celebration.  “Customers are looking for an alternative to the skinny jean.  They want darker, cleaner washes,” says sales director Maria McManus.  And, with the Champ jean in Night (our favorite green cast, resin-coated indigo wash), their customers will find what they’ve been seeking.  With lower, diagonal pockets (including a coin pocket on the back), darker, more discreet rivets than typically seen on Edun denim in the past, a looser thigh and higher back, achieving a day-meets-night look for men just got a lot easier.

PRPS Snap Jean ($288)
While it seems a number of leading denim brands are making their men’s styles significantly looser and taller, PRPS - a denim institution long known for  high-quality raw selvage and minimal washes – is doing the opposite.  “There’s a raw craze right now, and this is our #1-booked jean this season.”  In addition to shrinking the ankle opening from 19” to 16”, and shaving 1 1/2” off the thigh and knee and 3” off the back and front, this season PRPS is playing with folded back pockets, and placing non-selvage details on selvage (i.e. the snap detail at the waist seen here).  “Recently we’ve been addressing a new kind of customer.  This is a full-blown assault on that customer,” says Ari Langsdorf, Brand Manager.  From what we can see, the odds are in PRPS’ favor.

Bread Predator Zip Jean ($230)
“The cutting edge is anyway you slice it.”  So goes the motto of LA-based, Bread, a recently-launched denim brand sold at Fred Segal, as well as retailers nationwide.  The brand is designed by Jason Ferro, who has designed for Abercrombie & Fitch, Levi’s and Guess among others, and champions minimalist design, while paying strong attention to detail.  Bread provides unique offerings like ergonomic cuts, and Predator skinny jeans adorned with a thigh-high zipper along the inner seam (allowing wearers the choice to go cigarette or boot-cut depending on how you zip it).  As far as we’re concerned, this kind of customizable denim is exactly what so many gals with a love/hate skinny-leg relationship have been looking for.

5EP Stretch Selvage Jean ($298)
When we saw these standard five-pocket jeans, done in the highest quality selvage, we couldn’t help but stop and stare.  Little did we know the pair is the first-ever produced Japanese Stretch Selvage jean, introduced by NY-based denim label 5EP (for 5 Easy Pieces), in the brand’s own custom indigo color and selvage (2% stretch).  Just thank ‘godmother’ – who has designed for everyone from RRL, Diesel and DKNY - and ‘hitman’ – who builds custom motorcycles: 5EP’s partners in crime (literally: they’ve dubbed their various brands the Denim Mafia).  We recommend the Low Down Slim Fit (not too tight) in the Dark Worn Wash.  They’re simple yet classic and modern.  While the full launch for the style is not till Fall 07, mark your calendars - a select group of specialty stores will stock them by March. 

~Alisa Gould-Simon

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