Tucked away in Tribeca lies what many trend-following foodies have recently been touting ‘the next hot thing’ - the tiny one-room bar and eatery, Smith and Mills. Having celebrated its 30-day anniversary just last night, the less-shabby-more-chic outpost boasts a pedigree packed with enough NYC restaurant royalty to leave expectant gourmands foaming at the mouth. Yet, from the lack of signage outside and the intentionally quiet launch, one gets the sense that co-owners Matt Abramcyk and Akiva Elstein, who together also hold stock in Employees Only and Beatrice Inn, would prefer to keep the spot a secret.

Curious to get a firsthand taste of the extremely small, laid-back lounge’s atmosphere (not to mention the diminutive menu from chef Julia Jaksic, alum of both aforementioned NYC hotspots), we sought out 22-year-old Paz de la Huerta. Considering the actress and aspiring director grew up blocks from Smith and Mills, and her downtown ‘It’ girl status has allowed her to sample even the most exclusive NYC epicurean and social settings, we figured her the perfect Smith and Mills road-tester. In her own words:

What are your first impressions?
I’m a sucker for outdoor seating… especially during the summer. I’m not saying they should have 50 tables outside, but maybe have one or two. It feels like a very fall/winter-y spot. It’s cozy. There’s something nice about that too – during the dead of winter, but also in the heat in terms of escaping. The entrance is very discreet. I like that.

And what do you think of their choosing this locale – blocks away from where you grew up?
The neighborhood has changed a lot. My building was the first real residential building. Seeing it develop over the years… a place like this, so obviously trendy, shows how much has changed.

[She opens up the small, green menu] let’s see how much they’re charging us… their relishes seem reasonable. The prices on the starters are good. It’s a chic little spot. [She orders an Old Fashioned.]

How do you like the décor, the music [Louis Armstrong is playing]…
The music I really like. The décor I like; it keeps with the industrial nature of the neighborhood. You know Robert DeNiro is opening a hotel across the street [she gestures out the restaurant’s front windows]? It keeps with the vibe of what old Tribeca used to be. I like the music and the brass lamps. The details on the wall of an oil barge. The drawings, and the hardhats hung on the wall are making me feel like a coal miner. We’re surrounded by a bunch of yuppies.

Typical Tribeca?
Typical New York right now.

How’s the Old Fashioned?
Delicious.

[De la Huerta’s friend, director, producer and protégé of director Alejandro Jodorowsky, Fabrizio Chiesa - with whom she recently shot a film inspired by a French tarot card reader - joins the table. His first words are: “What a strange little place.”]

What have you been working on recently?
I was sick during the winter and wrote two screenplays. I’m working on one with Crispin Glover. I’ve also been working on a trinity of short films I’m writing and directing. I shot the first one at 18, the second last summer and I’m going to shoot the third when I’m not acting and modeling. I’m also working on a book of photographs [she declines to mention details, but does divulge that she knows with whom she’d like to publish the tome]. I also did a film, Fierce People, with Donald Sutherland and Diane Lane. It’s finally coming out in August. They had a really hard time finding distribution because of the sexual nature of the film. [A daily special, a dish of halibut and matzah bread, as well as a serving of cream cucumber arrive at the table.] I thought the waitress mentioned ceviche but this is slightly cooked halibut… and to serve it with Matzah… maybe it’s because I’m not Jewish. It’s very good, but this big bunch of Matzah; I just don’t know what to do with it.


Would you come here on your own?
I’d come here at an off-time. I don’t like crowded places. And, it’s near the financial district, so it’s bound to attract lots of Wall Street types. I don’t like that energy. If they had a door policy… hehe. No, I like it. I’d, you know, come at three in the afternoon.

[The Classic Oyster Pan Roast arrives] I like the waitress. I like her tits. I’m like a man when it comes to women. I definitely am. I’m struck by a great pair of tits. [She starts in on the oysters] I like it, I like it. This is really good. This is the best thing we ordered. [Before long, every oyster, and every bit of broth (thanks to a side of sourdough) are devoured.]

Before leaving, you have to take a trip to the restroom. It’s actually an old freight elevator and is supposed to be exquisite…
[Upon returning] I love it! It’s so beautiful... Can I use your phone? Mine’s broken and I have to call this person back. [After a brief retreat outdoors, de la Huerta returns elated.] I just got a part in a really great movie. I’m so happy right now, you don’t even know!

~Alisa Gould-Simon

Go There:
Smith and Mills, 71 N. Moore (between Hudson and Greenwich), (212) 219-8568, NY, open daily, 5pm-4am