Young Guns Make Their Mark
Up-and-Coming Designers Do It Their Way
As seen in the art and music worlds over the last few years, the fashion industry is becoming increasingly drawn to under-the-radar talents. Barneys recently beefed up its roster with underground labels like Eventide and Salvor Projects, not to mention Mooka Kinney, a NYC-based line designed by two twenty-somethings with no former fashion experience. Fashion insiders are embracing these young creatives with open arms.Hand in hand with fashion’s current leanings towards limited-edition goods, younger, up-and-coming designers are now cashing in on both ends: they’re exclusive (most can only afford to produce small collections), and, typically, painstakingly constructed. Thus, designers like Koi Suwannagate, whose namesake line was recently nominated for CFDA’s Fashion Fund, can successfully maintain a locally manufactured, hand-crafted line without gifting celebrities (though Natalie Portman and Nicole Kidman have bought her frocks), and still gain recognition.
Now, more than ever, rather than contemplating potential expansion and mass-market appeal, young labels are instead focusing on staying true to themselves, maintaining small production and high-quality craftsmanship. Here psychoPEDIA singles out some of our favorite under-the-radar lines – the best fresh faces that prove you don’t need a trust fund of socialite groupies in order to garner a following:
Mociun
Caitlin Mociun, designer of an eponymous Brooklyn-based line of mens and womenswear, is as well-known for her distinctive prints as she is for her lack of regard for the fashion industry. The RISD grad, who sells her clothing at boutiques like Brooklyn’s Bird and Jumelle as well as Steven Alan, has said, “I’d like to stay in the market that I’m in—boutiques. I don’t feel that I have to be that big.” Despite her disillusionment with the fashion industry, it appears as though Mociun is one the right track – she can count Mischa Barton a fan, and orders for the internationally-sold line show no sign of slowing down.Jesse Kamm
Jesse Kamm’s namesake collection is a bit of a double-edged sword – the designer handprints all her fabrics (often adorned with her lifelike renderings of animals and nature) and incorporates sustainable design into her creative process. A one-woman show, the Los Angeles-based designer, who recently showed her Spring 08 collection at St. Louis Fashion Week, even models all her looks herself – exhibiting her self-styled, self-portraits on the line’s website as opposed to showcasing a traditional look book. To boot, you can view close-ups of the designer’s drawings in an online archive. Jesse Kamm is sold at Colette in Paris and Ylli in Williamsburg.Something Else
Aussie-based Natalie Wood is recognized within her country’s flourishing fashion industry. Following the launch of her line Sample, which arguably introduced Australia to independent fashion, Wood created her spin-off collection: Something Else. Wood describes the latter -- a higher-end, more artful line -- as her “true creativity.” Borne out of dissatisfaction with her role in revamping the prestigious surf wear line Insight, Something Else soon became Wood’s pet project. Giving up the runway for more artistically charged, interactive presentations, the line, which incorporates an eclectic variety of graphics, textiles and fabrics. Something Else is sold at I Heart in NYC and American Rag in LA.Chronicles of Never
It’s far from shocking that a former Ksubi designer is now making waves via another fashion brand; yet that’s not to say Gareth Moody’s two-year-old line Chronicles of Never doesn’t pack surprises of its own. Inspired by the concept of Never Land (notice that the acronym for the line is CON), Chronicles of Never is both a direct and indirect attack on the fantasies and fallacies that the fashion industry promotes. Moody’s masculine-charged collection is unisex, and adorned with varying iconic symbols that perfectly compliment the cult-like following the line has amassed. Chronicles of Never is sold at Space Junk and will soon be stocked by American Rag in LA and Active Endeavors.Catherine Holstein
Holstein may have socialite connections, but, surprisingly, that fact couldn’t guarantee her access to production facilities in a time of need. After landing her frocks on the likes of Nicole Richie, and thanks to friend and former Parsons classmate Victoria Traina sporting them during NY Fashion Week a few years back, Holstein had an industry wake-up call. Despite numerous orders from boutiques across the country, factories wouldn’t return the calls of the untried designer. Thus, Holstein was forced to produce only limited numbers of her feminine, graphic, subtly simple clothes; therefore increasing their exclusivity. Now, her collections continue to sell out before countless frantic fashionistas can get their hands on them. (Note to aspiring designers: Holstein swears by The Fashion Designer Survival Guide.) Catherine Holstein is sold at I Heart and Satine Boutique.~Alisa Gould-Simon

First there was the Pit Bull, then the Jack Russell Terrier, and, now, the French Bull Dog – the perpetual must-have accessory, as sought-after in many cases as an ‘it’ bag from Marc Jacobs or Balenciaga. Every celebrity on a first-name basis with the paparazzi seems to have one, so why shouldn’t you? Really, who could balk at the idea of a loyal, furry friend that helps you land dates and will keep you warm in winter?
Cairn Terriers
New York City is a music mecca. Hundreds of performance venues are scattered throughout Manhattan and Brooklyn – the smaller of which have birthed countless young artists’ careers, while the larger continue to showcase those fortunate enough to land mainstream success.
Known for his fiery prose and superb storytelling, Rhode Island-born, South Korea-bred author
Thus, just in time to see the leaves turn, psychoPEDIA enlisted Chee’s help in garnering a Berkshires insider’s best-of list. Here, Chee tells of his adventures as a New England gourmand, and his dedicated drinking habits as a literary luminary. In his own words:
How do you typically start your day in the Berkshires?
Do you eat out?
Would you say Amherst is a college town?
The Berkshires is definitely known for its cultural attractions – galleries, museums, etc. Are there any outdoorsy activities that locals participate in as well?
You grew up around the ocean right?
Any good places to hang out during the daytime?
I’ve never heard of that before…
Anyone who has ever stepped into Boston’s
What are your first impressions?
What qualifies you to critique food?
What are you working on right now?
Do you see yourself as an arbiter of cool?
You were really insistent on ordering the shrimp fried rice. Is it a staple dish for you?
How does it compare to your parents’ restaurant?
Having a conversation with metaphysician and therapist Dr.
"We are all having more interesting experiences with this," Dr. Harra says about the recent phenomenon of contacting the dead. Like all good intuitives/metaphysicians, Dr. Harra's vibration is infectious. Here, psychoPEDIA sat down with her to discuss her newly released tome, and her thoughts on the mantras everyone should take to heart:
Your new book The Trinity of Health talks about how being overweight and sick stems from the emotions.
Why do you recommend being in contact with the dead?
Can you give us a simple exercise for communicating with those passed on?
We all have those friends who live for Halloween: You know, the ones who plan months in advance, and will spend a small fortune on their costumes without blinking an eye. Then there are the rest of us - adults who dread the whole dressing-up tradition, save for its inherent promise of a few killer parties. After all, Halloween really is a holiday for kids… candy, costumes, trick-or-treating. Yet, no matter how much we try to avoid it, most of us will end up sporting some sort of last minute concoction for the sake of not looking like the sole partygoer who’s too cool for costumes.
Beastie Boys Cop: Old-school 1970’s detective. Men, do it right and the ladies won’t be able to resist your charm.
Redneck: Get in tune with your inner party animal. Great excuse to act like a rude drunk all night.
Kogal (à la Go-Go from Kill Bill) or Harajuku girl: This is a modern twist on the classic schoolgirl, meets Lolita, meets Marilyn Manson. Pile it all on - just make sure nothing matches. Besides, it’s a great way to utilize all those tacky sale purchases you’ve never worn.
Mardi Gras Princess: Be the belle of the ball and make new friends with your Mardi Gras beads. The Mardi Gras masks are great since they don’t impede with eating, drinking or smoking activities.
Urkel: Everyone has a soft spot for a nerd, so be the geek of the party.
Though ever-present in entertainment industries (think brand associations and product placement), nowhere are the lines between art and commerce viewed as vehemently, or blurred as often, as in the art world. Corporations are constantly scouring for the finest artists and illustrators, in hopes of injecting street cred into their brand. For some time established artists like
Leeds-born, London-based
You’ve created many posters and imagery for friends for free, but you also do your thing for big companies. Are you ever afraid of being viewed as a sell-out?
Is the commercial work you do something you sought after from the start, or did it come to you?
In a recent interview with CNN, former Gucci creative director and marketing mastermind
Recently nominated for
What are you working on right now?
What do you miss most about Bangkok when you’re in LA?
In what ways has Bangkok influenced you as an individual?
What hotel would you recommend to a first-time visitor?
What’s one of your favorite places to shop downtown?
Speaking of late nights, what are some of Bangkok’s hottest after-dark spots?
What’s Bangkok’s best-kept secret?
Much like hip-hop, grime artists are usually pretty fussy about what they put on their feet. Although designers such as JCDC and
What would you say are your all-time favorite trainers?
What brand of trainers would you never be seen dead in?
Do you think the type of trainers you wear are important in the grime community?
Add the word “naked” to pretty much anything, and you’ve got most of the population’s attention. Luckily for three young filmmakers and ping-pong enthusiasts - Jonathan Bricklin, Franck Raharinosy, and Bill Mack - they decided to do just that when launching their uber-popular, twice weekly event revolving around the classic sport. An addition to a plethora of other nakedly-named endeavors – the health-conscious
Drawing in a diverse crowd to their Tribeca loft playing ground, from professional pongers, to investment bankers, graphic designers, movie producers, and models (Tim Gunn-sidekick Veronica Webb included), the event even garnered enough buzz to warrant a drop in by professional tennis players from the recent US Open. To find out more about these exclusive gatherings, and because psychoPEDIA can’t resist the idea of a wholesome, unclothed sporting event, we had co-founder Jonathan Bricklin give us the dish on the party phenomenon, being naked, and his true love for the game:
So you’re very pro-nudity?
What’s a technique or secret you would give to ping pong novices?
Do you have any intentions of starting a ping-pong empire?
Sometime between 9/11 and the present, flying turned into a nightmare. Translation: a day of hassles, delays, lost luggage, rude airport employees and strip-searches, not to mention freezing cold flights with no blankets or pillows and inevitable starvation save for a possible package of peanuts. And, not only do you have to plan your outfit accordingly, and allot an additional hour for security, you have to deal with the liquid restriction. Who wants to check their bag when they’re headed to Miami for just the weekend?
Another year and another