psychoPEDIA: Daily News

Noguchi Meets Cousteau
Jewelry Designer Christine J. Brandt on Reefing & Resolutions

Often seasoned designers will tell you that their first fashion memory occurred shortly after they mastered walking. What’s much rarer - and a lot more genuine - is hearing an artist actually admit to not necessarily having known exactly what professional path to take, as accessories designer Christine J. Brandt will happily disclose.

The Parsons grad, whose work has been featured in Elle, Vogue and Surface magazines as well as on the runway during Charlotte Ronson's Spring 08 collection, launched her namesake line two years ago after trying her hand at fashion design, textiles and footwear. Needless to say, it fit like a glove. Ever since Brandt has spent her time developing architecturally minded wood and gemstone jewelry, as well as developing an oceanic fetish. From the comfort of her cozy Soho studio, Brandt filled us in on a favorite salty pastime and setting a date:

Your work can be viewed as quite lavish and dramatic. Where does that come from?
It comes from the raw materials that I work with. My materials are what inspire the pieces. I’m attracted to the large, bold, extravagant gems and woods. Personally I wear very little jewelry. I’m very understated, but my pieces are very in-your-face. I’m a quiet person but my pieces are loud. Maybe it’s my other side, a balance of who I am.

It’s a very interesting approach with regard to materials, very unique…
I don’t know anybody else that works with wood and jewelry and it feels very lonely… no, just kidding [laughs]. I like it actually.

Your bridal line is likewise non-traditional. What kind of people tend to choose your rings versus a more traditional diamond band?
Human people [laughs]. No, it’s the person who doesn’t want the Tiffany diamond. They’re all different— lawyers, musicians, artists, doctors. They want something unique— something custom for themselves that their girlfriend down the street doesn’t have. A lot of my clients seek me out because it’s all one-of-a-kind. I’m working on my own ring; it’s taking a long time [laughs]. I’ve been commissioned by my fiancé to make my own ring. But I have to make so many other pieces first.

Have you set a date, or, rather, a deadline?
No [laughs]. I think that’s why. If you have a deadline you’re forced to do it. I haven’t set the deadline and I haven’t set the date.

Do you have an idea of what it will look like?
I’ve picked out this really beautiful cluster of rough gold that looks like a nugget. And I don’t know if I’m going to use it yet, but I have these yellow rough diamond chips. It’s so hard. I have to be comfortable wearing it, so it’ll be quite small.

For engagement/wedding rings, do you receive requests from grooms, brides, or both?
I often get both. The groom contacts me first, then he brings in his fiancé and she picks out the stone and wood combination. Or maybe she finds me, and she tells him what she wants and then they come in together. Usually they do it in a partnership. And then I usually create the band for him so it’s a two-piece project. Sometimes they both want simple wood bands so I’ve done all three pieces.

Any bizarre requests?
No, not really. Usually they mention certain colors or styles they’re interested in, and I get the liberty to create what I want. I get carte blanche. I had a request for a black stone and African black ebony wedding ring which is opposite from the traditional diamond ring, but I don’t think that’s unusual. Once I did a commission for a client who sent me a barnacle from the ocean that was attached to a whale and it was an interesting shape—quite big for a barnacle, 1.5x1.5 inches. It looked like a star. She said, ‘Please make me a ring with this.’ That was one of the most interesting commissions that I’ve gotten.

Some people believe that those who work with weddings have a sixth sense as to what couples will last and which won’t. Have you experienced that at all?
No. I don’t go that far. I’ve never thought of that until you mentioned it. It’s just not my thing. If I had that sixth sense I would buy a lotto ticket every week [laughs]; I would put it towards something useful.

Any current obsessions?
[Laughs] My current obsession started about six or seven months ago. I set up a saltwater tank. I like animals in general but I’ve realized I can’t take care of everything. So I have all types of living corals, anemones, crabs and shrimp. I’m such a nerd. There is a small community of what they call Reefers here in NYC. You can log [onto the website] and become a member. There are forums and information, you can ask questions about something happening to your tank and usually people come back with really good answers. It’s an online community and we get together once in a while. We talk about different types of corals. It’s kind of silly; my fiancé says, ‘You spend more time with your fish tank than you spend with me.’ Nobody else is into it. They don’t understand.

What’s a typical reefer like?
They’re mostly middle-aged men. I find that there’s also a large Asian community that is involved. There are some women. It’s mostly a masculine hobby; I’m not sure why. Maybe for obvious reasons like if you have that much time to dedicate to your family you should do that rather than fish. It’s also very scientific—checking nitrates, phosphates and water quality.

Do you have a next purchase that you’re working towards with regard to the tank?
I want a bigger tank. The one I have is 30 gallons. I want to go to like 100 gallons. It comes with a nice price tag and I have to work my way up to it.

Has this hobby influenced your design?
I haven’t really used any materials from the ocean yet, but I’m very influenced by the shape. The shapes in the tank are always changing. I have this creature called the carpet anemone and it looks like a flower, almost like an orchid. It’s very sculptural, very beautiful. And color combinations—the colors are intense. You start combining interesting colors, neon green with gray… you have it in your head but you may not even know that you’re taking it from there.

Did you make any New Year's resolutions?
Just to do more than I did last year, and to keep going. In the beginning it’s very tricky to start your own business and in art you’re selling your own wares. So, just to be able to keep going and to create.

~Alisa Gould-Simon

Go There:
To get your hands on some of Brandt's exclusive pieces, check out these boutiques.
Matter, 605 Broome St, NYC.
Luxehaus, 1410 Montana Ave, Santa Monica, CA
Kaviar & Kind, 8533 W Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles, CA.

Fourth and Sixth photos, courtesy of Theme Magazine




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