Navigating Bryant Park during New York’s Mercedes Benz Fashion Week can arguably require as much energy and focus as braving a Barneys Warehouse Sale. Big names abound, but finding a diamond in the rough is next to impossible. Thus, it’s long been true that editors and fashionistas alike have to search farther than the 42nd Street runways to find something truly refreshing.

As New York’s Autumn/Winter 08 Fashion Week is now fully underway, psychoPEDIA is highlighting some of the most exciting, noteworthy young designers at work today. You won’t find them at the tents, or, in some cases, even sending their looks down a runway. But that’s not to say these talents are anything to scoff at. Here, the leaders of the pack:

Telfar
Since 22-year-old Telfar Clement first registered on the NY fashion scene a few seasons back as a model, then as an assistant at the now defunct menswear house Cloak, his deconstructionist namesake line (launched in 2004) has become somewhat of a cult-coveted phenomenon. The designer, who’s dressed MIA and whose sport-meets-streetwear designs are sold at avant-garde boutiques like Eva and Oak, showed a collection of exoskeleton-inspired looks yesterday at St. Marks Church. Entitled “Urban Jungle,” the show featured jumpsuits, suits and business coat combinations, as well as accessories created in collaboration with Converse, among other pieces. And, good news for guys and gals, Telfar’s A/W 08 collection, as always, is unisex.

Liz McClean
Hollywood stylist-turned-designer Liz McClean is making a splash this NY Fashion Week, and it’s not just thanks to her designs and celebrity clientele… though those never hurt. Rather than taking a traditional approach to the presentation of her textural, feminine collection, McClean has instead chosen to exhibit her looks in a gallery setting, with photographs of pieces on friends (some famous, Keri Russell and Maggie Gyllenhaal included, some not) in their natural environment. The show opens February 7th at Openhouse (and is sponsored by Cover Girl), with all featured “models” wearing the McClean frock in which they were photographed. The presentation will be less costly and more ecologically-friendly than any other runway show.

Jeremy Laing
This 28-year-old, self-taught designer has gained quite a reputation for his breezy, feminine looks. Not bad considering his first fashion project was done “on a whim.” Based in Toronto, Canada (by way of Berlin), Laing honed his patternmaking and design skills watching his mother sew when he was a child and, later, working as an apprentice to Alexander McQueen. Now in his seventh season, Laing’s NY Fashion Week presentation this time around proves especially interesting; his collection was created in collaboration with fellow Canadian (and former Olivier Theyskens associate) Calla Haynes. Expect colorful, covet-worthy pieces.

Built By Wendy: Wendy Mullin
Built by Wendy: Wendy Mullin, best known for her quirky socialite-attracting line, Built by Wendy, is no newcomer to New York Fashion. But that doesn’t mean her appearance at this year’s fashion week is any less anticipated. After a four-year hiatus, Mullin is returning to the catwalk with a slew of celebrity followers: friends (and fans) Parker Posey, Amy Sedaris and Jason Schwartzman were on hand yesterday to cheer on Mullin’s presentation, while her muse, Joanna Newsom, provided a live folk-infused soundtrack. Talk about a comeback.

Jonathan Saunders
After graduating from the famed fashion design program at Central Saint Martins, Scottish-born Jonathan Saunders followed suit with many of classmates, making a sizeable impression on the London fashion scene. But this season, he’s bringing his (often ultra-bright, graphic) womenswear stateside, with his first foray this side of the Atlantic: NY Fashion Week. Considering the strength of his designs, which are currently sold at Bergdorf Goodman, he may take the title of London’s hottest export… that is, until Topshop finally lands in the U.S. And, one step behind seasoned veterans like Proenza Schouler, and up-and-coming designers like Erin Fetherston and Loeffler Randall, Saunders is rumored to be the next guest designer to team up with Target.

Richard Chai
The acclaimed womenswear designer who’s been garnering acclaim for his sophisticated designs (often outfitted with hand-stitching, bias tapes, French seems and origami tailoring) for several seasons, is making his way into menswear. While the move may come as a bit of a shock to his female fans, Chai is no stranger to designing for men. Chai cut his designing chops as the former design director at TSE, not to mention he launched Marc by Marc Jacobs' menswear line. And that’s not even taking into consideration Chai’s family connections—his brother, Edward, is co-owner of influential Manhattan boutique Odin.

~Alisa Gould-Simon