In the process of building multi-billion dollar empires, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren defined the widely-embraced concept of the “lifestyle brand.” In their wake, they left many specialty designers scrambling to join the race to secure their names on everything from bath towels and bed sheets to sunglasses and shower gel. While spending years working for Lauren, Michael Kors, and Derek Lam, designer Lynne Hiriak always envisioned a line that had a singular focus and expertise.

She got her wish: Not interested in making everything under the sun, Hiriak recently launched two lines that make a few things in all their glorious and multiple forms MLH, a women's collection that explores color and print using one fabric-- novelty fine jersey and CARDIGAN, a knitwear concept dedicated to the eponymous item. With both collections, Hiriak aims to explore all the variations and possibilities-- what she calls “singular multiples.”

Hiriak's design philosophy stems from her extensive travels and personal style. But what really drives her is the simple obsession for finding basics in different forms. Hiriak began collecting her coveted items when work led her to Asia and the Middle East. Afraid she might never get to return to the markets, Lynne stockpiled, shipping home suitcases of scarves and printed shirts. Today, Lynne's closet is a testament to the beauty of utility. Stacks of neatly folded sarongs and saris, piles of cotton and silk shirts sit above countless cardigans. A row of blue denim floats atop two towers of colorful scarves and a multiplicity of moccasins. Frowning over the of-the-moment status of Minnetonka moccasins, Hiriak says "They're easy and seasonless. I wear them in the winter, spring, summer, whenever. They weigh nothing so they're easy to travel with. I've gone through tons of them."

"The thing I like most about everything I collect is that nothing is precious. There is great utility to everything. In the context of where they come from, these are all classic everyday items," says Hiriak. Woven baskets rest on her bedroom floor overflowing with beaded necklaces and Italian leather sandals from Francesco da Firenze. The reasonably-priced (60 to 80 Euro), beautifully-crafted shoes are custom-made in 4 to 5 days. "The first thing I do when I get to Florence is put in my sandal order and go eat lunch. It's become a ritual," says Hiriak. " The teeny little shop has been doing the Greek sandal/gladiator thing for years. They make great classics that can be tweaked and personalized."

"There was a period where I was wearing a lot of scarves-– and people started to identify me by them. I kept getting them for gifts even though I had a bazillion. I must have received 25 one year. The thing is, I've never gotten one I already had or thought I didn't need. And I know exactly where each one comes from. They all have a story." Lynne finds most of her brilliant silk and cotton scarves at the markets in Thailand and India. She gives John Derian props for "doing scarves really well." For those who don't mind coughing up cash or aren't turned off by popularity, Calypso and Matta are great sources for ornately authentic pieces. But when possible Hiriak always shops the source. The best tissue-thin silk and cotton shirts are to be found in Qatar: "There's a guy in the old section of town, just go over the bridge and he's right there." She wishes she had an address. If you're not going to make it to Qatar anytime soon, Do Kham Tibet Emporium on Prince Street serves as a good second.

And as for accessories: Way before Prada and Marni, Lynne unearthed the most outrageous over-the-top necklaces in India's Tibetan open market. "You're supposed to bargain down and each guy is cheaper than the next," she explains. There Hiriak has found beads and bones, wood and tortoise. Some of the tortoise shell pieces are so thin, she has to be mindful of the weather or they'll crack. Her seemingly endless collection is filled with turquoise and lots of quartz. New York City also has lots of tucked away little shops filled with hidden treasures. Nusraty Afghan Imports hosts beads and jewels amidst a jumbled mess of rugs and metal deities. You might even be able to do some bargaining down without having to traveling across 12 time zones.

At first glance, Hiriak's obsession for hunting down the perfect find seems like a quirky idiosyncrasy. But she is really just perfecting a modern uniform for increasingly complex times.

~Lisa Germinsky


Go There:
Franceso da Firenze, Via di Santo Spirito 62 red, 0039-055-212428
Nusraty Afghan Imports, 215 W 10th St, (212) 691-1012