psychoPEDIA: Daily News

My Town: Mexico City
Photog Livia Corona on Her Capital City Hometown

Over the past decade, Mexico City’s reputation as a true tourist destination has continued to grow. No longer is the sprawling city plagued by taxi cab kidnappings or muggings, though that’s not to say the metropolis-- often referred to as Distrito Federale (or D.F.)-- which houses an awe-inspiring population of 19 million, is without crime. But garnering more international attention these days is Mexico City’s burgeoning cultural scene. In various pockets of the city, like up-and-coming neighborhood Condesa, fledgling designers and artists such as Ensanada-born Livia Corona are generating work that’s catching the eye of gallerists and collectors worldwide

In Corona’s case, it’s her recent photographic series, Enanitos Toreros, that’s making waves. These celebratory images capture various traveling troupes of little people performing as Mexican bullfighters-– a tradition as old in Mexico as Mezcal and Mariachi. The stunning series, the fruits of eight years of labor, is encapsulated in an eponymous tome on powerHouse Books (a launch party is slated to take place at powerHouse headquarters in DUMBO tonight). In the midst of preparing for her book launch, we caught up with the acclaimed photographer, who divides her time between Mexico City and NYC, to talk inspiration and the idiosyncrasies of her hometown:

What initially inspired your Enanitos Toreros project?
Enanitos Toreros started in a very casual way when a woman, who is a little person, invited me to tour with her team of dwarf bullfighters after I made her a headshot. Through her I met other little people who invited me to their shows and to their homes. With time I realized that there is not a great deal of common knowledge about dwarfism and, consequently, there are many false ideas and much discomfort about the subject. I was interested in the space between these two factions. Right when I started hanging out with the Enanitos Toreros, I saw Robert Frank’s “Cocksucker Blues,” a behind-the-scenes documentary of the Rolling Stones while touring. That was a point of departure for my touring with my friends.

What was the most surprising thing you learned while documenting these bullfighters?
I was, and am [still] struck by how dwarfism remains a sort of “last minority” which culture can discriminate [against] and stereotype. It seems that the blanket of political correctness skipped this part of our society altogether. The book is about a lot of things, but mainly an effort to get past the spectacle and re-portray dwarfism in a way that made sense to me, having people with dwarfism as friends.

What inspired you to move to Mexico City and keep a part-time residence there in addition to NYC?
For a photographer, New York is a top place to produce work. New York City figured out how to take care of itself years ago, and now it’s a model for efficiency. My antidote to the smoothness is Mexico City, where nothing really coincides and everything runs on a fluctuating pattern. It is vast in countless ways, so it has a lot of space where one can generate ideas for work.

How would you describe the city to someone who’s never been?
I would cut right to the sales pitch and tell this person to pack their bags and get to it.

If you were celebrating the launch of your new book in Mexico City-- where would go for a night on the town to celebrate?
El Covadonga, in Colonia Roma. It’s an old, enormous dinning and drinking hall with rows of tables to sit 40-50 of your closest friends. The waiters know many by name. You drink and eat until morning. When it closes, everyone moves to the next bar and knocks on the door until they open.

The city’s art scene is flourishing. What sets it apart from other cosmopolitan art communities?
I guess all the hanging out and talking leads to something. There is not a significant division between artists working in different mediums and people socialize a lot. It may also have something to do with there being very few “accredited” sources telling creative minds what is what. All the general urban senselessness probably keeps people inventing their own conclusions.

What are the names of a few local galleries and artists of note?
Go to Galeria GaGa in Colonia Condesa. Ask for Botas. He might tell you everything or nothing.

Best place to see live music?
El Pasaguero.

Where is the best to go for tacos?
Tacos are more of a Northern Mexican staple. There is one place not many foreigners go-- the food cart lady who parks at the entrance of Hotel Buenos Aires, on Motolinia and Cinco de Mayo. She makes everything you can possibly make out of blue corn. For breakfast - Chilaquiles en Salsa Verde-- I always go to Cafeteria La Blanca, on 5 de Mayo.

What’s your favorite shop to frequent?
Nacional Monte de Piedad-– a jewelry pawnshop administered by the government.

What’s a good hotel for out-of-towners?
A lot of foreigners stay at Hotel Condesa. My favorite hotel, for the interior décor, is Hotel Jena, a left over from early '70s décor. The '70s look is consistent to the last detail… furniture, rugs, bedspreads, dishware, etc. It’s a time warp. For '80s hotel décor intensity check out Hotel Casa Blanca.

Where offers the most authentic Mexico City experience?
You can go (pretty much anywhere) and get kidnapped.

What is the most visually inspiring spot in the city?
Centro Historico, northeast of the Zocalo-- the streets that haven’t been bought up by Carlos Slim.

What's Mexico City’s best-kept secret?
It’s really 30 million citizens but it doesn’t want to admit it.

~Alisa Gould-Simon




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