Brick Lane -- most fondly known for its large Bangladeshi community and vast selection of restaurants specializing in some of the finest Anglo-Indian cuisine anywhere -- is fast becoming known for its large retro community and huge array of fine vintage boutiques. Unfortunately, the street once celebrated for its East-meets-West diversity is now becoming engulfed by the Western love of alcoholic over-indulgence, and dresses from the 1950s. It was somewhat inevitable, then, that one day a company specializing in catering to both lovers of alcohol and retro-chic would take the opportunity to cash in on the Western end of Brick Lane.

Cue All-Star Leisure Group Limited, to open the doors to All-Star Lanes, their 3rd ‘boutique’ bowling establishment, on Brick Lane. Co-directors Mark von Westenholz and Adam Breeden promise “a marriage of bowling, cocktails, the finest diner cuisine and unforgettable music.”

Marriage, it seems, is not the harmonious union it used to be. As we all know, 10-pin bowling rose to fame in the 1950s, and for some has never really shaken its fey ‘50s charm, one which All-Star lanes has taken and halfheartedly run away with. We are greeted by well-turned-out staff -- all ‘50s dresses, red lips and Happy Days hair dos -- but upon further inspection, it soon becomes clear this uniform resembles that of a fashion-conscious TGI Fridays. Funnily enough the menu isn’t that far off Fridays either, featuring wings, ribs, burgers -- all including the word ‘American’ in their description. First impressions are important, and sadly for All-Star Lanes, the first thing you see as you walk in is the restaurant area, which can be best described as ‘Ikea does Grease.’

But, on to the bowling, which is what people primarily come for: one game is surprisingly well priced for ‘boutique’ bowling, at 5.50 pounds per game (about $10), which rules out the popular notion that the lanes were primarily built for the city boys of nearby Liverpool St and Bank.

Beyond the obvious hilarity and enjoyment a good game of bowling can bring, the lanes were a little disappointing -- a lot more could have been done with the space. It’s stylish, yes, but there’s so much more potential here than a whole wall of black-painted breezeblocks and some funky lighting. If you are going to go for the ‘50s theme you really need to go for it -- otherwise you have to go for the other end of the spectrum, and that’s the super bowling complex with arcades, flashing lights, loud music, the whole shebang. All-Star Lanes lies somewhere flaccidly in the middle.

Neighboring the six lanes is the venue’s saving grace: a super-smart bar 100 times more inviting than the restaurant. It boosts several curvy leather-clad booths and a well stocked bar boosting several rare American spirits and difficult-to-pull-off cocktails, that judging by the looks on the recipient’s faces, were successfully rendered. It is also twice as packed as the 200-seat restaurant area, despite being a quarter of the size. All Star Leisure would have done very well to stick to just the cocktail bar and lanes at the front.

Either way, by the look of the packed lanes and the line for the bowling shoes, it already seems that All Star’s Brick Lane gamble has already paid off. The future can only offer more gain for them: As we speak plush apartments and two new shopping centered train stations are flying up all within 10 minutes of the lanes. This will no doubt lead to a never-ending influx of cocktail-guzzling, pin-hungry corporate groups and parties.

~Kevin Soar

All-Star Lanes, 95 Brick Lane, London E16QL. 020 7426 9200

The Verdict:

Looks: 2/10
Fun: 9/10
Service: 7/10
Price: 7/10

Overall ... 25/40