My Town: Arnhem, The Netherlands
Designer Maaike Mekking on the Art of Fashion & Raw Herring
When most people think of Holland, they think Amsterdam, tulips and prostitutes. It’s very likely those folks have never heard of the Dutch town Arnhem. That is, unless you know fashion. Because ever since Arnhem Academy of the Fashion & Arts (artEZ) graduates Viktor & Rolf had their breakthrough in the fashion industry, all eyes are on the town -- and there’s a lot more to the place than the geeky designer duo.The Arnhem-based artEZ arts academy has the highest standard and selection of talent than any other Dutch art institution. Spijkers en Spijkers, People of the Labyrinths, Viktor & Rolf -- all have their origins in Arnhem. So does fashion designer Maaike Mekking. She spent five years at artEZ and left Arnhem for London soon after graduating. After four highly-anticipated catwalk shows during London Fashion Week, gaining international press coverage in i-D, Nylon and Zoo, this lady is set to rock the world as Arnhem’s latest fashion darling.
psychoPEDIA got Mekking to confess what she misses most about her time in Arnhem and where to bump in to the next Viktor & Rolf:
How would you describe Arnhem to an outsider?Unlike London, it’s green and in the summer you can cross the bridge to cycle to the lakes and swim with the cows! And although Arnhem is fairly small, there is great creative energy. I really liked the intimacy of the town, and the fact we created our own events if nothing was happening. It sometimes seemed a bit too small, though that is what makes it charming and it increases the focus on the arts.
What is your favorite part of Arnhem?
I loved swimming in the Meinerswijk, the lake I mentioned before. Or going to Sonsbeek Park to read. I also loved going for pizza at De Blauwe Hoek on their discount evening with classmates when working late. Most of all I loved the shared house on Boulevard Heuvelink I lived in. We shared it with an amazing mix of people that studied music, graphic design, dance, fine arts... Herman Brood used to live there too.
How would you describe the fashion scene in Arnhem?It’s small, but oh so refined. Thanks to the brilliant fashion department at artEZ it attracts new young people each year and is the home of many talented designers such as Spijkers en Spijkers, and the amazing shops Humanoid and Coming Soon [by Yohji Yamamoto]. And although Viktor & Rolf are based in Amsterdam now, they once were notable locals. So was Alexander van der Slobbe, Spijkers en Spijkers and Jan Taminiau, who were actually in my year.
What are you currently working on?My A/W09 collection: designing, fabric selections, pattern cutting and preparing for fittings. I am also working on a project called ‘N O W’, which is a platform for young designers. We are currently in the process of preparing a presentation for A/W09 London Fashion Week. The result is completely different from the conventional catwalk presentation, an ongoing theme in my work.
Tell us something about Arnhem that tourists may not know about.
The Museum of Modern Art is worth a visit, and the permanent artwork on the bridge over De Rijn is nice to see at night when it’s lit up.
Where do we go to spot the newest local designers?
You should go to the monthly parties like Konijn 2000 and Luft, or local nights when DJs Tricky Disco spin their vinyl. Or visit the canteen in the art school during lunch hours.
What should culture vultures take in on a trip to Arnhem?Visit the Fashion Biennale coming up this year -- you will spot all the new designers! But otherwise eat the best homemade Dutch “appeltaart” apple pie in Vrijdag, check out the music selection in record shop De Waaghals, walk along the river, go to the museum and Sonsbeek Park. Humanoid and Coming Soon remain my favorites for clothes shopping, as well as Super Duper Vintage on the Rijnstraat.
Tell us more about the Fashion Biennale.
It’s a well-known international fashion event, set up by artEZ and the council of Arnhem. Every two years you can spot the newest cutting-edge talent during an exciting event where fashion is presented in unconventional ways. The next Biennale edition is in June 2009, you have to go visit it!
Other than clogs and windmills, Holland is famous for its cheese – where do you find it?
There’s one really good cheese shop: Het Zuivelhoekje on the Steenstraat.
Do you miss any typical Dutch stuff now that you’re based in the UK?
I miss the Hollandse Nieuwe! It’s a Dutch specialty, raw herring typically eaten with raw onions. And there’s the swimming outdoors in the summer, which seems to be impossible in London. I miss the green surroundings, after living in East London for so long.
~Freddie Janssen
First photo by Billa
