In order to understand The Libertine – the stuffily-named new restaurant at the new Gild Hall hotel on Wall St. – you need a little backgrounder on the hotel itself. It’s owned by Thompson Hotels, a company whose first venture, 60 Thompson, was a testament to late-‘90s tech-driven moneybag chic, with its private passkey rooftop lounge and velvet rope outside.

Times have generally changed since then, and things have toned down. Gild Hall reflects that in its general look – it’s more grown-up than 60 Thompson ever was, with less focus on show and more on details. And the design has also matured, courtesy of designer Jim Walrod: bright red walls contrast with huge white wall moldings for a Federalist-goes-mod look; the rooms have thick, substantial leather bed headboards and a splashy mix of prints; and a bi-level library bar featuring stately wood tones contrasted with swoopy seating surfaces, for a perfect yin-yang.

The restaurant lies within this style, with a tony-pub feel – though, as it’s Thompson’s wont to attract celebs, they got about as big a food star as you can to run the place: chef Todd English (responsible for tons of big restaurants in the U.S. and throughout NYC, most notably in big hotels, like Olives at the W Union Square). And it’s no small operation – it’s a bi-level space meant to recall swinging-‘70s London clubhouses with its ironically-old-school portraiture on the walls, rubbed-bronze accents, velvet chairs, and red leather banquettes over trippy Oriental rugs. And lots of bookshelves with books that look frequently-read and tattery-eared.

While he’s extremely attractive and TV-photogenic, and a brilliant businessperson, English is not known for taking huge culinary risk in his menus, and this place is not an exception. But what’s there is fun: cheeky, high-rent takes on hangover food, courtesy of executive chef Eben Leonard. Two really tasty examples of that are caviar sliders ($20) with quail eggs and crème fraiche, and a Kobe hot dog ($18) – both of which were expertly rendered. These smaller bar-style plates are the draw.

Sadly, the main course wasn’t as much of a hit. After chowing on the above, my friend ordered a rack of lamb and Moroccan shepherd’s pie ($28) for an entrée, and I had the roasted sea bass with grilled corn and salsa verde ($24). The lamb was bland and the Moroccan shepherd’s pie a little too minty-tasting, and the sea bass was just fine but very forgettable, with the salsa not enough to float it above average.

The service was OK. When we asked what a good wine might be to complement our meals, the waiter said “It really depends on your mood” – and he wasn’t being playful. He was serious. I asked him if he meant before or after my daily anti-depressant pill. That sort of started things downhill, and he did not really say much after that.

The overall verdict is that this is not a place I’d recommend people cab specifically down to the Financial District to have a full meal at. But if you’re down there and you want a “reinterpreted” pub snack and a cocktail, it’s more than good enough for that – and if you’re a design buff more than a foodie, you’ll be downright pleased.

~Stephen Milioti

The Libertine, 15 Gold St. (at Platt St.), 212.785.5950

The Verdict:
Taste- 7/10
Value- 7/10
Looks- 8/10
Service- 6/10

Total ... 28/40


First and third photos by SarahNYC
Second photo via Boston.com
Fourth photo via Eater.com