psychoPEDIA: Daily News

Wren Takes Flight
Fashion Designer Melissa Coker on Icons & Inspirations

Melissa Coker is the ethereal, delicate-featured blonde who, besides being easily mistaken for Calista Flockhart's younger sister, is the creative force behind the LA-based label, Wren. It’s a collection of sophisticated silhouettes with sunny California whimsy, seen on the likes of Katie Holmes and Kiera Knightly.

For a line still in its infancy (recently passing the year and a half mark) that was first snatched up by taste-making boutique Opening Ceremony and has since made its way to Barneys and Neiman Marcus, it comes as no surprise that before starting her own label, Coker packed a wealth of fashion-industry experience into her 29 years: interning at Helmut Lang, recruited to be a trend forecaster, styling photo shoots and working in editorial at Details and Vogue (where she assisted Andre Leon Talley, who now sits front-row at her shows), and designing for major commercial markets at Old Navy and Forever 21.

It also doesn't hurt that Coker also has the support of her friends-– singer Sarah Sophie Flicker, model Karen Elson, art director Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, socialite Margherita Missoni, and DJ/muse Harley Viera-Newton-– all style mavens who star in her lookbooks.

To find out more about this bird-like beauty, psychoPEDIA got behind the scenes with this over-achiever:

Seeing that you have immense fashion-industry experience, from which did you take the most influence and skills?
I try to have a mind for the editorial in the way I present things, so that has always been a big influence. The time I spent doing trend forecasting was probably the most formative. I traveled all over the world, worked with amazing and inspirational people, and learned so much about everything from graphic design to color to finishing.

Being that you've worked in both designer houses and mainstream brands, where does your line fit?
I hope somewhere in between. I like the idea of having a refined aesthetic but still being accessible.

You use many of today's style-setters in your lookbooks. Are they also muses for the clothing you design?
I have chosen specific girls to be a part of what I'm doing because I like that they have their own, very defined aesthetic. They are all characters, and I really respond to that. I am inspired by the childlike fantasy in the way that Sarah dresses or Karen's other-worldly, Victorian beauty. Tennessee Thomas, an early Wren model, has definitely been a big inspiration on the latest collection I've been working on. I love her quirky, winsome English charm and style.

Who are some of your own style icons?
As a teenager, Kate Moss was certainly the biggest. My grandmother has always been a big influence, as well. Other than that, I've liked specific movie moments. Catherine Deneuve in the Umbrellas of Cherbourg, Goldie Hawn and Julie Christie in Shampoo, Mia Farrow in Rosemary's Baby, Auntie Mame for being so over-the-top. To color-coordinate your rooms to your clothes...sigh. I just watched Desperately Seeking Susan again recently. I've always loved how Madonna looked in that movie.

Do you find that being LA-based gives your clothes a different attitude than New York designers?
The attitude of my clothes is playful, with lots of color and quirk. New York has such varied talent that I feel like those sentiments are reflected by a few designers there as well.

As your line is named after a doll dressmaker in a Dickens novel, would you ever design clothes for dolls-- especially now that Louboutin is making special shoes for Barbie?
Not so much dolls, but I'd love to have a children's line. Suri Cruise as the lookbook model.

What's the inspiration behind your next collection?
Birds of Britain.

Since you once acted as a trend forecaster, can you tell us what styles will be big in '09?
Shine for day, and pretty, ladylike textures like lace. More high-waisted things and lots of skirts.

Do you have any New Years' resolutions?
I'm a bore. All the old standard things: try to exercise, eat right, work harder.

~Leann Peterson


All photos, except third, courtesy of Melissa Coker




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