The urban gastro-pub is a very tricky tightrope act to achieve. It has to be down-to-earth but not grubby; homey but not kitschy; and the food has to be two steps above standard pub-grub, but not so highfalutin as to be inaccessible.

The latest gastro-pub to aim for the mark is Wilfie & Nell, a West Village spot that’s brand new but already looks nicely worn, befitting the old-world vibe of the immediate area: dark wood-paneled windows, exposed caramel-colored brick, creamy-gray velvet banquettes. It’s sort of American-Irish hybrid in aesthetic, more masculine than feminine but friendly to both. The effect is a regular local bar, just scrubbed extra-fresh. The place is named for the grandparents of owners Mark and Simon Gibson, two Irishmen who also own Bua in the East Village; Joaquin Baca, formerly of Momofuku, worked on the menu, with much thought going into the details.

The food on that menu is squarely in the gastro-pub safety zone mentioned above – better than standard pub food, for sure, but not annoyingly Top Chef-like. And dieters beware: it is very, very fattening. The only greens here are the pilsner logos on the bar tap. The big beer selection is designed to soak up the greasy food – and my friend and I came hungry. Luckily, much of it is not just greasy, but flavorful – when you’re eating so unhealthy, you want payoff. That comes in dishes like the Berkshire pork sliders ($9) – delicious crumbled pork on buttery little rolls, with McClure’s pickles and grain mustard. Completely smile-inducing, as is the corned beef grilled cheese with onions ($10) – it all comes together with a perfect crunch on the outside and meltiness on the inside – this type of sandwich can easily fall into sogginess and blandness, and not so here. Delicious.

Unfortunately, some dishes were not as good. Of the other two we tried, one – the shepherd’s pie ($10) – didn’t rise an iota above boring – and the malt vinegar-soaked fries ($5) were too soaked, almost inedibly greasy. Less vinegar and they would have been fine, but they were so pungently vinegary, it almost hurt, and sent us frowning back to our pint of lager.

Service was average to good – we were served by a fellow who was relatively expressionless and seemed somewhat depressed, yet was quick and efficient. It’s not a welcome-you-with-open-arms place, but certainly there is no velvet-rope chill.

Despite the missteps, there’s enough good to recommend the place overall – start with those pork sliders and you’ll be happy. Also, this place suits the current economy – a couple can get well-fed and liquored up for under $50, which is a nice idea for anything from a cheap date to a gathering among friends where you don’t have to worry about splitting a Nobu-sized bill.

Wilfie & Nell, 228 W. 4th St. near 7th Ave. South (phone 212.242.2990)

~Stephen Milioti

The Verdict:

Taste- 7/10
Looks- 8/10
Value- 9/10
Service- 7/10

Total ... 31/40


First photo by Hannah Whitaker
Second, third, and fourth photos via The Hungry Roach