psychoPEDIA: Daily News

Beauty Road-Test: KO Nailpolish
Paint it Black

A spiked black-leather band around the wrist or neck -- that was all it took to freak the heck out of your average New Yorker in late '70s, early '80s. We laughed at the pet-shop owner’s scowls as we appraised the fit of a choker and spiked dog collars on one another, adding to their dismay with an occasional woof woof. There were no “Punk Outfitters.” We got our combat boots from Army surplus stores, and the rest of our paraphernalia we made ourselves.

Back in them olden days, the desire was for a look that made people shudder, or at least notified clearly in no uncertain terms that we were not one of “Them”! We were not part of their system of conformity. Everyday household items became a means to expressing these sentiments. Our rage combined with our fashion, and safety-pins that had once held up our diapers were now appropriated as accessories to hold together clothes or an earlobe. No-income sensibilities found creative usage for sharpies beyond tagging up LOUD FAST RULEZ on subway walls. A quick scribble on fingernails was decorative but did not accommodate a manicured pampered look. These nails were Mad Max’ish FLAT BLACK, no glitz, no gloss. And for a change-up, painting WhiteOut was the perfect antidote to those preppy girls being pretty in pink. For spice, a bit of yellow highlighter leant an ambiance of, “we will survive in the gutter better than you yuppie scum!”

Eventually, black nailpolish became the Vogue must have, but for us early punks who got our asses kicked for daring to sport dry marker on their nails, seeing models pose in Chanel’s black-polish felt somehow heathen! But we also knew, they still didn’t get it right. Our nails weren't a mirror for the soul -- all shimmer and shine with their glossy counterfeit black. Our ink was the certitude of tenebrous bleakness. Ours was the dead end we felt was offered us -- as the Sex Pistols gospel held it, “No Future For You!”

But then, something happens if you don't hit an early extermination. Suddenly you find yourself in your 30s or 40s and pink doesn't look so bad anymore. Actually it’s kinda cute. Maybe. And coating your nails with sharpies just doesn't have the same Raison D'Etre when you’re helping your child with homework and preparing school lunches. And you start to care that walking around with the scent of WhiteOut on your fingers might make other parents think you are a low-rent glue sniffer.

When my son was five and his new playground pals gathered round me to point at the piercings in my nose, eyebrow, under chin, and around my ear, and inquire loudly why I had metal in my face, the last bit of visual punk in me stepped aside. I always thought I’d raise a punk rock kid, but this is not how my punk ethic needed to express itself -- humiliating my son.

I have had only two manicures in my life, when it was a gift from someone else. I found it painful to sit and have someone I didn't know hold my hand with the touch of a loved one. They didn't want to converse, they wanted me to soak my hands in the pretend Palmolive, act pampered, and shut up. I didn't dig any of the colors they had on their wall for me to pick either. I suppressed the desire to ask for the marker that the receptionist was using to label plastic bottles. I just did cliche red and felt like a harlot sell-out.

Then one day my friend, the iconic makeup artist Mike Potter, pops on me that he is making nailpolish, and before I can sputter, “Et Tu, Bruté,” he pulls out what looks like a small flashlight. He says nothing, just takes my hand in his as a beloved would, twists the top, and the magic wand is painting. And it's a Proust Madeleine moment, I was a teen living by wits in New York City with street punk on my finger. I look up with him, tears welling in my eyes. He smiles, the arch grin of Gene Wilder’s Willy Wonka: I make the impossible possible. This is necromancy in a bottle -- pure flatte black is here! It even applies like the spongy sharpie head, uniform, no brush strokes. It’s so innovative that if your nails were painted with this stuff and Matisse happened to time travel and was strolling by a café where you happened to be nursing a macchiato, well, he would stop dead in his tracks and do a portrait of the being who had managed to display gouache on, as the dictionary calls it, “the flattish horny part on the upper surface of the tip of each finger.”

It wasn't a stunner to find out Potter was christening his line K.O. -- as in Knock Out. It was Rock'em Sock'em Robots to me, I was floored.

And then it got better.

He took out another flashlight. He took my other hand. I closed my eyes.

I felt the vague dampness glaze my fingernail. After I opened my eyes the tears jumped ship and gushed down my cheeks.

“OH, oh! It’s WhiteOut! With highlighter mixed in" -- but not the look of yellow snow. It’s called Powder and it glows, but in a matte way.

“Who can take a rainbow...”

The punches kept ah’coming. He did my pinkies in Liberty-– the color of an old school oxidized penny or our lady of the harbor.

The sound of flip-flops, the pungent scent of chlorine filled my nostrils as the color of damp cement was spread on my middle fingers, it is called Flatte Top.

The Coup De Grace hit my toenails, red of the cheap splatter film color, getting its point across, vivid but no gratuitous shine. It is fittingly named after its inspiration, Karen O of the Yeah Yeah Yeahs.

For the first time I have given a gift of PINK nailpolish to a grown woman. But with KO’s Calamine, I did not have the icky feeling that I was colluding against the feminist movement. It’s a decoration in remembrance of things past -- when that pigment of red mixed with a lot of white covered all mosquito bites. I could feel my momma dabbing it on with a cotton ball and uselessly admonishing, “Don’t scratch.”

With his his trunk-sized Louis Vuitton suitcase of makeup and brushes spread before him, Mike Potter conjures legends. He is the artist that created the famous Hedwig look for the film Hedwig and the Angry Inch. He’s the one who makes the lives of photoshop experts at Vogue a lot simpler. The only problem with being a patron of Potter is that there's no way you could ever try this at home. Potter doesn't just apply makeup, he transforms you. “How can I bottle you?!” was the constant plea his clients would pout, knowing they'd return to postmidnight Cinderellas.

Somehow Mike Potter found a way to bottle the reconstructing of who we are through our memories. I look at my nails, and it is the richness of printing ink dried. It is a teen girl encountering the world with the same passion that black absorbs in the universe and hides within. It was punk, it was a communal sense of hope within despair, a reminder that anything is possible. We will be heard. All captured in a bottle that looks like a flashlight.

~Laura Albert
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Denim Road-Test: Bzen
Fashion Designer Rebecca Turbow's Monochromatic Moment

Many fashion-conscious folks would be resistant to going gray, finding it too safe. Not New York City-based designer Rebecca Turbow, who has designed an all gray line of clothing called… Safe. This spring, the designer showed her Fall/Winter 2009 collection during New York Fashion Week at the downtown Moeller Snow Gallery. The models stood on white cubes, donning the mod clothing done in all gray (with a bit of black thrown in).

When it comes to personal style, Turbow practices what she preaches. For years she has only worn monochromatic color combinations, even going as far as dying all her clothes and painting the bottoms of her shoes. Therefore, she was a perfect fit for our latest denim road-test. To wit, we asked Rebecca to test out a pair of Bzen's "Nathalie" tapered jeans. We thought this might meet her design expectations, since this Montreal-based premium denim line produces 100% hand-stitched, hand-sanded products. Constructed of black Japanese fabric, the style is washed down until it reaches a soft gray color: a perfect fit for Turbow’s own wardrobe. We asked her 10 questions:

Tell me about Safe.
The original concept of the line is about clothing and how it keeps you safe.

What’s your latest collection about?
It’s a little more grown-up, more sophisticated. I was calling it “’80s prep school.” It’s got a ‘80s vibe mixed with the ‘60s-mod era.

For a long time you only wore the colors green and white. And now you only wear the color gray. Explain?
It started about nine years ago, and I was really drawn to this shade of green. I started dying everything that color, and before I knew it, everything was green. It wasn’t even intentional, it just sort of happened, and then I became the girl who wore all green and white. Then last year, I needed a change in my life and I switched to gray. It’s great because I got to look forward to a whole new color.

What did you think of the Bzen jeans?
I think they are great. The color is really good. I’m really into cool grays, and these are a really nice cool gray in a medium shade.

Where did you wear your new Bzen?
I wore them all day doing errands, and I ended up going out all night in them as well! I went to a birthday party at the bowling alley Lucky Strike. Then I went to the Beatrice Inn, and I was there all night!

What did you pair with the denim?
I wore a silk, sort of oversize T-shirt, from my Fall 09 line. It almost acts like a dress because it’s pretty big and long. It looked really cute, because the jeans are really tight and skinny. Also, I wore my favorite little leather scrunch boots.

How did they fit and feel?
I love the fit and they look awesome! And they are really skinny, which I really like. My only issue is the waist was so low on them that they cut into my hipbone, which was kind of uncomfortable. But, I definitely got a ton of compliments …

Do you ever feel stifled by only wearing gray?
It can be so difficult. I’ve been trying to find winter boots this year and it’s impossible! It’s so much harder than you think it would be.

~Meredith Craig de Pietro
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Beauty Road-Test: Facial Acupuncture
Following in Gwyneth’s Footsteps to Find a Remedy for Skin In Crisis

I’ve Googled Juvéderm once or twice after contemplating¬ my reflection for an amount of time better left for teenage girls. But the thought of a dermatologist jamming my cheeks until they’re plump with hyaluronic acid dermal filler produces an anxiety that far outweighs the desire to erase smile lines. Of course there’s Botox, which promises to vaporize my frown lines, but unfortunately I have a healthy fear of clostridium botulinum. And anyway, isn’t it at all disturbing that I’d want to erase all evidence of emotion on my face?

In the spirit of holistic medicine (and vanity), I contact Mark Moshchinsky at Tree of Life Acupuncture, and schedule a facial acupuncture appointment, clinging to the hope that this problem can be tackled from the inside out. If Gwyneth and Madonna are fans, there’s a good chance I’ll walk out of the acupuncturist looking younger and prettier.

I arrive at Tree of Life and complete the standard intake forms. Then I meet Mark for our consultation, but first ask him a few questions before volunteering my face as a pincushion.

On the inevitable Botox comparison: Well, I’m not a Botox expert… let’s start with the advantages. It’s quick and the results could be more dramatic than acupuncture. That’s probably it. The disadvantage is that when it wears off, you look a lot older. And there are no health benefits.

Disadvantages of acupuncture: I’ll start with the disadvantages. It’s not as dramatic– that’s basically it. The advantage is, it works on your health. Even if I focus on your face, a lot of organs map out on the face. The liver has to do with eyes, mouth has to do with digestion, and the nose has to do with the lungs.

On visible results: Unless you do some surgical procedure, if you don’t feel well, it always shows on your face. Even if you get Botox, there’s an energy around you. A woman may not be that beautiful, but she’s happy and people cling to her. A lot of the time it has to do with internal energy. You might not always see it, but people feel it. Another advantage is that it’s natural, it’s not as dramatic, but over time you can see that it will help you with stress and all your health issues. A lot of people carry stress on the their face.

How to achieve optimal results: Lines aren’t going to disappear after one visit. A good rule of thumb is 10 to 12 weeks for any course of treatment. Acupuncture can give you a glow–it can happen with even one treatment. It gives you more blood supply and more energy.

Cost comparison: Average acupuncture sessions range from $80 - $120 (generally 10-12 treatments, one every week or two, are necessary). A standard Botox treatment costs anywhere from $350 - $800, and lasts up to 4 months. Restylane lasts a little longer than Botox and there are claims that after a second course of treatment, results can last up to 18 months. (But Botox is still the most popular, with over 5 million injections last year, up from 4.6 million in 2007). (Also of note: Reloxin, a possible Botox rival expected to be approved by the FDA later this year, is currently used in two dozen countries. It will have a lower price tag than Botox, and boasts reportedly similar results to Botox.)

So after noting that I’d like to focus on the area around my mouth (and he doesn’t disagree), we head over to the table. He checks my pulse and looks at my tongue–- standard acupuncture intake. He says I look a little off-balance.

He feels around my abdomen. At the point right below the diaphragm there is some discomfort. A-ha! The stomach affects the area around the mouth. Mark puts a needle two inches below and to the right of the knee and a pulsing sensation begins. He puts his hand back on my stomach and the discomfort is completely gone. He adds a few more needles–- one to the left hand, right foot and the crown of the head.

Now for the face: He gently places a needle on either side of my mouth and then two more a little further from the center of the face. All is good. But when two more go in closer to the ears, I get that woozy beads-of-sweat-all-over-the-body sensation. Did I mention my fear of needles? He removes the last two. A little deep breathing and I’m back to normal. He leaves me alone for the best part of acupuncture– a trip to that special place somewhere between sleep and consciousness.

Twenty or so minutes later I float back to Planet Earth feeling remarkably calm. On my way out I stop at the mirror to check out the reflection. No longing for Restylane. No signs of stress. I had a certain glow. It’s simple to see that a full course of treatment would produce significant effects.

That evening I sleep better than in weeks. And there’s no better way to get a luminescent complexion than a good night’s rest. Sign me up for round two.

~Lisa Germinsky

Tree of Life Acupuncture
32 Union Square East #804
212.533.1192
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Venue Road-Test: Citi Field
Diehard Fan Kevin Devine Analyzes the Modern, but Slightly Soulless, New Mets Stadium

Kevin Devine is pondering the choices his fans will make in the coming months. He’ll be on the road supporting his latest record, Brother's Blood (Favorite Gentlemen). And with the economy the way it is, he can’t help but wonder if they’ll opt for a ticket to his shows or simply a T-shirt with his name on it.

It’s a conundrum he understands well, as the New York-bred, Brooklyn-dwelling songwriter occupies the role of divided consumer in his relationship with the Mets, his beloved hometown baseball team. To wit: he used to play in an indie band called Miracle of 86, referring to the oft-referenced Mets victory of that year. “In some ways, outside of family, the longest relationship of my life is with the Mets,” he says. “It kind of superseded girlfriends or music.” And this week, the organization unveiled a curiously timed celebration of themselves (and in some people’s view, including Devine’s, reckless commerce) known as Citi Field, an exorbitantly-outfitted new ballpark replacing the old Shea Stadium, and kicking off this week with the season opener.

The 29-year-old neo-folkie was propelled to national attention after becoming a high-profile victim of Capitol Records’ recent merger with Virgin— but since then he has re-established a huge fan base by touring with Brand New, and posting demos on his MySpace profile (with over 1.6 million views at last count), all leading up to the aforementioned Brother’s Blood.

On a recent windswept Saturday afternoon, Devine absorbed the sights, smells and $17 lobster rolls at Citi Field, and was left with the distinct feeling that “these stadiums are not being built for the casual fan. They’re being built to streamline a profit margin.” And while he ultimately takes the perspective of “more power to you” at this capitalist drive, he’ll likely opt for the T-shirt with a select player’s name on it over luxury-box seats.

Here, he gives Psychopedia his eloquently jaded insight on the rest of Citi Field’s fancy accoutrements, which includes a Blue Smoke BBQ, Shake Shack (an annex of a popular Manhattan burger stand), Caesars Club, sushi and Mexican outposts, and even feminine baseball attire endorsed by a certain former sitcom starlet. In his own words, topic by topic:

GREETINGS FROM NEW JERSEYS
“[J.J.] Putz is something special and opens you up to a whole world of ridicule… But I guess [my jersey] would have to be K-Rod [Francisco Rodriguez]. I could say it’s some weird, sick nickname, if I had to reclaim the K-Rod nickname for myself. That’s the easy answer, but he’s pretty impressive, so if I had to I would probably get a K-Rod jersey.”

MILANO ROOKIES
“I guess Alyssa Milano is a big Mets fan -- she has opened on the premises a clothing boutique for the female fan. I thought that was strange. I didn’t really fish around too much, just because it looked like workout clothes for girls with the Alyssa Milano stamp of approval, which is arbitrary and weird.”

BLOWIN’ SMOKE
“It’s like every stadium in L.A. Having a smokehouse and a Shake Shack… [the Mets are] always trying to compete with the specter of the Yankees. Everyone I know always mocked Shea. I always thought, ‘It’s concrete garbage, but it was our concrete garbage’… I’m not going to a game to sit in a smokehouse. If I want to go and have a nice meal, I’ll go have a meal and catch game on TV. If I’m going to a game I’m going to a game… Philosophically, it harkens back to the idea of why the fuck do they even have to build these stadiums.”

CEASAR’S BUTLERS
“The thing that struck me was… certain tickets grant you access to the Caesars Lounge, which is kind of like a mall food court with weird overhead lighting and clusters of couches and private bathrooms. And this is during a game. There’s no television in the goddamn room with the game on. People were watching a boxing match. And I’m like, ‘What does this say about people that we need a distraction from the distraction?’” You’re not at your third cousin’s bar mitzvah and you don’t want to be there so you sneak up to the bar. You’re at a fucking baseball game.”

FEELING CORNERED
“I didn’t go [to Citi Field] and break out in hives. It’s a nice-looking stadium. It’s got these funky corners in rightfield that make it interesting. I think it’s going to cause [Gary] Sheffield and [Ryan] Church a lot of hell figuring out how to play out there, but it definitely felt weird. Not that Shea’s history was storied… But it doesn’t feel like anything now. It felt like Any Stadium, U.S.A.”

~Kenny Herzog

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Body Care Road-Test: Every Man Jack
Deconstructing the Subversively Stylish, Low-Cost Men's Line

You may recall a recent road-test in which fearless Psychopedia reporter Leann exfoliated with the naughty cleansing collection from Villaness soaps. But if female body products are getting all Burning Angel on us, they’ve got nothing on the gender-role-inverting trendiness around recent male grooming.

And while the proliferation of scrubs, loofahs and all-in-one armpit deodorizers from brands like Axe and Old Spice have responded to crafty constituent research with clever ad campaigns and pandering pheromone igniters, they’ve ignored effective outreach to a male demographic truly in need. Namely, the former slacker who’s all grown up and more cognizant of his self-maintenance, but finds the marketing of metrosexuality to be a subtly apologetic, homophobic eschewing of genuine image-enhancement.

Which is where Ritch Viola comes in. Viola launched Every Man Jack in 2007, specifically unveiling his line in Target stores. And in 2009, as the recession has rendered high-end salons a moot indulgence and the glut of douchebag-directed accessories has clouded our manscaping mission, the Every Man line is a veritable bod-send. Unlike the calculated identity construction of its competitors, Jack’s shampoos, lotions, gels and soaps don’t require an uprooting of your fundamental routine. And the postmodern humor that’s pervasive throughout their packaging is less alpha-male encourager than Snapple-bottle-cap subversive irony. (The faux-FAQs on the back of each bottle make for much more entertaining reading than a standard ingredients list.)

Below, we sample five of the newest Jack products that would be the cornerstone of an Every Man’s daily rejuvenation routine, in an effort to determine whether an affordable middle ground between Head and Shoulders and Sebastian Professional:

SIGNATURE MINT 2-IN-1 DAILY SHAMPOO ($8)
Presentation: Its translucent square torso is affixed with a wooden-block-style nozzle that reflects the simplicity of the Every Man logo. Much like this year’s Oscars, a bit too cute in an effort to convey understatedness. But unlike that awards ceremony, gets extra points for sub-titling itself “Action Jackson.”
Ease Of Use: Squeezeability is lacking just a tad due to the exterior’s heavy plastic. But hey, it’s made of recyclable materials, so you can use the extra bit of exercise. Ya lazy bum.
Most Unexpected Ingredient: Coconut-derived nutrients.
Will You Finally Know Jack About Hair-Washing? You’ll likely experience growing pains on the first couple of applications, as a heavy dose can lead to a scalp-tingling adventure. But as the cool mint settles into your follicles and the shower’s rays eventually wash it through, it’s a unique sensory encounter, if not thoroughly effective as a conditioner.

SPICED PEPPER BODY WASH AND SHOWER GEL ($5)
Presentation: Like the Whooper Jr. to the shampoo’s senior rendition of the sandwich, the Body Wash is artificially identical to its cranium-scrubbing counterpart, save for a boxier, more diminutive shell and non-translucent plastic.
Ease Of Use: Tends to come out in gobs that will potentially scare away conventional epidermis latherers serially attached to their bar of Irish Spring. But from there, works itself into soapy precision with quickness, and requires minimal extra emission.
Most Unexpected Ingredient: Besides the namesake spiced pepper? Well how about sliding some citric acid across your skin in lieu of your morning glass of O.J.
Will You Finally Know Jack About Body Washing? Of all the Jack merchandise, this is by far the most lasting and invigorating, leaving you with a lingering scent that is unexpectedly manly but charmingly esoteric, and imbuing you with sexual bravado without the creepy suggestiveness of other companies’ rival (and often distractingly fluorescent) gels. Like Ben Affleck chasing Amy, this viscous hygiene healer may actually change your impenetrable reliance on the aforementioned filmy bar.

SPICED PEPPER BODY BAR WITH GLYCERIN ($5)
Presentation: Still not convinced to get off the wash rag? Then forego the ickiness of the shower gel and opt for these same-scented, wood-grain-emulating, compactly square oil-and-pepper amalgamations. Three bars are contained within each perfume-like box, and it’s kind of fun to watch the carved-in chain-link logo slowly wash away. Ditto for how it begins to look authentically weathered after a few uses.
Ease Of Use: Well, that depends on your familiarity with the general bathing procedure. Barring a personal history with natural cleansing or Tarzan-like wash-ups in a lake, this should be pretty intuitive.
Most Unexpected Ingredient: Rosemary oils.
Will You Finally Know Jack About Soap? Actually, maybe. Irish Spring still has its old-fashioned charm, but it’s pretty gratifying to stare at and sniff this aromatic gift. And your girlfriend will probably appreciate the nuanced addition to your shower’s atmosphere. (Little Psychopedia secret: Do a quick lather with the bar and then follow up with a thorough coating of gel, and you’ll feel fresher than a newly exited birth-canal baby.)

SIGNATURE MINT SKIN HYDRATING FACE WASH ($5)
Presentation: Deceptive in its simple-but-revealingly sheerm upside-down squeeze bottle, as the wash actually fizzes up into a thin-but-frothy pore-invader upon massage into the skin.
Ease Of Use: Takes a bit of getting used to, particularly awkward to negotiate around facial hair and never really feels natural when caressed into the back of the beck as recommended. This is why you ideally are in co-habitation and can seek assistance as penance for all those zipper-uppings.
Most Unexpected Ingredient: Sea Fennel. (No relation to the sausage.)
Will You Finally Know Jack About Face Washing? The Face Wash is the most prone to accusations of placebo. While it feels momentarily refreshing on account of the mint, it can be hard to accept its profound resonance or necessity as a dirt-remover, especially if about to step into a hot, peppery shower with the remainder of your Jack arsenal.

SIGNATURE POST-SHAVE FACE LOTION ($5)
Presentation: More subdued, and consistent with the shampoo as far as linear juxtaposition of neutral blues and browns, similar to the aesthetic concern of modern sports logos. And unlike the peek-a-boo packaging of the hydrating face wash, classily conceals the eggshell white of its inner contents with a complementarily muted shade.
Ease Of Use: Exceptional from a basic functionality standpoint, if lacking in the shower products’ novel reveal.
Most Unexpected Ingredient: Sunflower Seed Oil.
Will You Finally Know Jack About Aftershave? While arguably the most low-key of their shave-and-shower line, this lotion is also the most emblematic of Jack’s intent, behaving itself delicately against your skin, while distinguishing itself with its scent and texture. (And in case you were wondering, while Jack does distribute a shave gel, your standard can of Gillette or disposable razor with Aloe will probably still remain serviceable in tandem.)

~Kenny Herzog
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Restaurant Road-Test: Shang
Chic-Hotel Chinese Fusion on the Lower East Side

Rising from Allen Street is the newest cool downtown NYC hotel – Thompson Lower East Side. It’s a jarring yet undoubtedly strong structure: blocky, boxy and gray. Inside it’s the hospitality equivalent of black on black on black, with shiny mod surfaces and ambient music. And it’s Thompson’s raison d’etre (as we showed in an earlier review of The Libertine, at their Gild Hall hotel in the financial district) to put a star chef in a cool restaurant.

Here, they enlisted Susur Lee, Chinese star chef (and “Iron Chef America” participant), to head up the hotel’s eatery, Shang-- a big, red-hued space with bulbous, oversized light fixtures, expensively glossy paneling and draperies, and curvy leather banquettes that were clearly conceived (like the whole hotel was) in an economic boom.

In this incongruously extroverted 130-seat space, Lee served up Asian fusion cuisine. Yes, Asian fusion. That is very 1997. The menu is as uneven as it is cheeky – my friend and I saw that in the dim sum alone. Taro puffs with curried beef were insanely tender and delicious. But tiny scallion pancakes were boring and dull. Soy miso flavored cucumber salad was intensely bright and bursting with subtle flavor; yet fried oysters with Kung Pao sauce were greasy with no payoff. The salads looked interesting – the one my friend and I tried, Singapore Slaw, has 19 ingredients, from jicama and daikon to roasted hazelnuts,, carrots and even pansies, and a plum dressing that was a perfectly-spiced delight.

Wish the entrees had been as good. The slow-cooked pork belly I had was very disappointing … the pig is already dead, so there was no reason to kill it again. It may have been slow-cooked, but it was over-cooked well past the point of tenderness. The apple puree on the side was nice, but that didn’t save it. My friend called his sablefish – admittedly not an easy one to prepare -- “just bland – disappointing. Not bad but not memorable.”

And now a note on service. Thompson people: get it improved, quick. Our waiter came to the table, and said, “Hello and welcome…” then apparently he received a signal from another staff member, and immediately said: “I’m sorry – please excuse me,” and did not come back for approximately three minutes. This is the time when I should point out that the bill, with one drink each, was around $150. This is a very bad bill total to combine with being abandoned by a waiter for several minutes. After the initial abandonment, service was relatively rushed, with the waiter doing that annoying thing where he said “excellent choice!” after every choice.

No need to go too far into the economic situation, but let’s just say that we know it’s not great, and high-end restaurants have to be absolutely first-rate to be true survivors. This one isn’t first-rate. It’s interesting, and has potential, but for now, it’s in the gray zone.

Shang, 187 Orchard St., 212.260.7900

~Stephen Milioti

The Final Verdict

Taste- 7/10
Value- 5/10
Looks- 7.5/10
Service- 5/10

Total... 24.5/40


First, third, and fourth photos by kathyylchan via Flickr
Second photo by Lois Seigel
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Gadget Road-Test: Flip Mino Camera
Is This Pocket Cam Worth Flipping Out Over?

In the age of the all-powerful pocket-phone, another little black box just for making videos could seem superfluous. After all, as well as being able to essentially run our lives, sing us to sleep and perhaps morph into crime-fightin’, tough-talkin’ super-robots, phones are now capable of capturing perfectly acceptable moving pictures.

If, that is, you only ever want to watch them on a screen about as big as a business card. I cannot be the only one who has whipped out my phone at some perfect moment, only to find that once transferred to my computer, everything comes out as a series of greyscale squares.

That’s where the Flip Mino comes in. As an object, it’s fairly unbecoming as it first slides out of its box. The big red record button is inviting, but other than that, it’s just a black box with a screen. But turn it on, and it lights up like a runway, all blue and twinkly. Lovely. It also has an awesome little flip-out USB key, which snaps upright with the nudge of a button at the side. I totally freaked out a friend of mine with it, asking him if it were a defect, then almost poking him in the eye with the USB key when he got close to check.

The Mino is weirdly light, which does little to inspire confidence. You find yourself tiptoeing around it, scared that if you were to drop it then it would shatter. But I guess the lightness is also a good thing, making up for the fact that it is a little more cumbersome than an average phone or iPod.

One of the advantages of its size is that it does have a flat bottom, which meant I could balance it on a book whilst I filmed a guy I’d just met in the pub reading a letter by James Joyce about farting. The film is surprisingly high-quality, even picking up smoke in fairly dark lighting conditions. The sound, too, was unexpectedly clear and could even pick up the groovy subtleties of a reggae gig I went to later that night.

From a marketing perspective, though, the Mino is hanging precariously between two different types of filmmakers – the casual one who just picks up the occasional funny moment, drunken antic or happy-slapping, and the more serious filmmaker who worries about focus and depth of field and that sort of stuff. For the casual enthusiast, a phone is still pretty much adequate and they are only going to get better, so there’s little point in having another box to weigh down your pockets, particularly one which costs around $160. And for the more sincere video jockey, the Mino just isn’t high enough quality. It’s decent, but it doesn’t approach the quality of even a middle-of-the-road camcorder.

In sum, the Mino has missed its moment. Though it was fun to have the camera for a couple of weeks, I did stop taking it out with me because it was ruining the cut of my coat and wasn’t useful enough to justify making me look like I had a hip tumour. A couple of years ago, prior to five megapixel phone cameras and ever-smaller handhelds, the Mino would have had its niche. Now, it’s barely present-proof, let alone future-proof.

~Chris Harding


The Scoreboard:

Looks: 6/10
Value: 4/10
Quality: 7/10
Convenience: 6/10

Overall rating: 23/40


First photo via Wired
Second photo via Matthom
Third photo via Coochichoos
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Restaurant Road-Test: Wilfie & Nell
Deconstructing the Latest NYC Gastro-Pub

The urban gastro-pub is a very tricky tightrope act to achieve. It has to be down-to-earth but not grubby; homey but not kitschy; and the food has to be two steps above standard pub-grub, but not so highfalutin as to be inaccessible.

The latest gastro-pub to aim for the mark is Wilfie & Nell, a West Village spot that’s brand new but already looks nicely worn, befitting the old-world vibe of the immediate area: dark wood-paneled windows, exposed caramel-colored brick, creamy-gray velvet banquettes. It’s sort of American-Irish hybrid in aesthetic, more masculine than feminine but friendly to both. The effect is a regular local bar, just scrubbed extra-fresh. The place is named for the grandparents of owners Mark and Simon Gibson, two Irishmen who also own Bua in the East Village; Joaquin Baca, formerly of Momofuku, worked on the menu, with much thought going into the details.

The food on that menu is squarely in the gastro-pub safety zone mentioned above – better than standard pub food, for sure, but not annoyingly Top Chef-like. And dieters beware: it is very, very fattening. The only greens here are the pilsner logos on the bar tap. The big beer selection is designed to soak up the greasy food – and my friend and I came hungry. Luckily, much of it is not just greasy, but flavorful – when you’re eating so unhealthy, you want payoff. That comes in dishes like the Berkshire pork sliders ($9) – delicious crumbled pork on buttery little rolls, with McClure’s pickles and grain mustard. Completely smile-inducing, as is the corned beef grilled cheese with onions ($10) – it all comes together with a perfect crunch on the outside and meltiness on the inside – this type of sandwich can easily fall into sogginess and blandness, and not so here. Delicious.

Unfortunately, some dishes were not as good. Of the other two we tried, one – the shepherd’s pie ($10) – didn’t rise an iota above boring – and the malt vinegar-soaked fries ($5) were too soaked, almost inedibly greasy. Less vinegar and they would have been fine, but they were so pungently vinegary, it almost hurt, and sent us frowning back to our pint of lager.

Service was average to good – we were served by a fellow who was relatively expressionless and seemed somewhat depressed, yet was quick and efficient. It’s not a welcome-you-with-open-arms place, but certainly there is no velvet-rope chill.

Despite the missteps, there’s enough good to recommend the place overall – start with those pork sliders and you’ll be happy. Also, this place suits the current economy – a couple can get well-fed and liquored up for under $50, which is a nice idea for anything from a cheap date to a gathering among friends where you don’t have to worry about splitting a Nobu-sized bill.

Wilfie & Nell, 228 W. 4th St. near 7th Ave. South (phone 212.242.2990)

~Stephen Milioti

The Verdict:

Taste- 7/10
Looks- 8/10
Value- 9/10
Service- 7/10

Total ... 31/40


First photo by Hannah Whitaker
Second, third, and fourth photos via The Hungry Roach
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Beauty Road-Test: Villainess Soaps
Giving Showering a Sinful Spin

Villainess is a Tennessee-based body care brand whose catchphrase is "redefining bad." And from a casual glance at their assortment of nefariously-named products like Asphyxiate, Blood, and Silk & Cyanide, it would seem like their definition of "bad" comes straight from the repertoire of a split-personality femme fatale who could seduce you with her ripped stockings and murder you with the same material.

But take a closer look at the labels’ fine print list of ingredients, and there’s nothing but granola goodness. Despite a line-up of mostly vegan, cruelty-free products with ecologically sound ingredients-– including palm, castor seed, grapeseed, cherry kernel, and coconut oil, shea and mango seed butter, and "peace" silk-- the entire line is still inexpensive, from $5 for large hunks of soap to $15 for perfume oils. Armed with a winter-appropriate arsenal, I stepped in the shower ready to test some curiously dark, spicy, and sweet scents.

While I tend to be anti-soap-- as the act of rubbing a soap bar against my body seems masculine and conjures gritty images of Brad Pitt mixing tubs of lye in Fight Club-- I wanted to diversify my regimen and give soap a shot. So, I opened the first bar, Shrapnel-– a cream-colored soap scented with "sugared cranberries laced with ozone and incense and spiked with cracked peppercorns." Villainess soaps are cut large and aren't contoured, which make them slightly unwieldly in the first few uses. Also, the feel of the bar against my skin was initially foreign, as I'm used to foamy shower gels applied via loofah. And though I would've liked a frothier consistency (since I tend to equate suds with cleanliness), I could instantly feel that the soap was doing double duty-– cleansing and moisturizing in one swoop-– which besides my disdain for 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioners, I’m always a fan of products that multi-task.

After easing in with the mild aroma of Shrapnel, I opted to tackle a more incendiary scent, Pyromania, described as “warm black pepper, sweetened with brown sugar, and touched with a veil of smoke”–- of which the illicit odor could easily justify the allure of arson. And as for my favorite scent, Anti-Hero, a gray suede-colored bar that the label describes as "well-worn sweaty leather, the acrid smoke of cigarettes, and a soft side of honey and vanilla," I felt faintly imprinted with the incriminating scent of a seedy, downtown dive bar-- and I liked it.

After the cleansing process, and now a converted soap lover, I move on to the “dessert” stage and exfoliate with Dulces En Fuego Smooch warming body scrub, a raw sugar and sea salt concoction laced with crushed botanicals and jojoba beads which smells of “musky bitter chocolate sweetened with vanilla, touches of citrus, and inflamed with black pepper and nutmeg.” Taking a greedy two-finger scoop of the grainy mix, with only a touch of moisture, it immediately heats up when rubbed lightly. I could feel the warmth opening pores, especially on my face, and yet the mixture isn’t overly abrasive like a lot of salt scrubs. But as another dual-action product in the line, the best aspect of Smooch comes at the end, when it melts down into a light lotion that leaves a thin veil of moisture even after it’s rinsed away.

Finishing with a light layer of Wasabi Whipped-– the velvety-textured lotion scented with green tea, black pepper burn, and a brisk splash of citrus–- provides the literal icing to the Villainess experience, although I could’ve done without based on the moisturizing effects of the shower alone. Therefore, to ration my Whipped reserves, I save it to apply to my winter-wind-beaten knuckles, as ironically enough despite its name, I’ve found it’s one of the few products that won’t burn my chapped skin upon application.

As for the final verdict: while I was first roped in by the charming and cleverly-named items Villainess offers, the complex and often peculiar combinations worried me that I’d encounter olfactory overload, which I get at Lush or The Body Shop. But to my surprise, despite the fragrances being distinct and multi-dimensional, none are migraine-inducing, and they layer nicely over each other with integrated use. So while I never thought I’d want to smell like I had a criminal record, Villainess makes smelling bad seem so good.

~Leann Peterson


The Soapy Score
Looks- 9/10
Value- 10/10
Quality- 10/10
Convenience- 9/10
Total ... 38/40
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A Pair of Health Nuts
Current TV Co-Hosts Talk Tahini & the L.A. Dating Scene

In its inception three years ago, Current TV set out to hire about 50 rotating hosts for the channel. When the network, whose “spiritual leader” is Al Gore, came across two film students at the University of Miami, they stopped that search and hired two guys -- Max Lugavere and Jason Silva -- to be the face of the station, which aims to be the “HBO of the YouTube generation.” The duo moved to L.A, became roommates, and on January 12th, launched their first daily show for the network.

“Al Gore has said that the Internet is the most participatory medium of our time,” says Silva. “What he wanted to do was bring that level of participation to television -- to embrace user-generated content and news journalism.” While some co-host situations seem forced, Max and Jason are actually best friends in real life. “Our friendship is based on the fact that we have similar taste in food,” says Lugavere. The two self-proclaimed health nuts, who love sneaking away from set for lunch, met us at the recently-opened healthy restaurant Natura Mediterranean Foods, to discuss ethnic comfort food and dating in L.A.:

JS: The name of this place stood out for us. The best Lebanese comfort food with brown rice and everything organic. We try to eat really healthy. We live above an organic supermarket.

So you cook?
ML: We can toast bread – that’s in our domestic skill set. But we don’t cook. We’re in the studio a lot. But for lunch we like to run out to a quick healthy restaurant. L.A. has the best affordable delicious restaurants. This place has the best Lebanese comfort food.

A plate of hummus and thin pita is served.

JS: The hummus tastes like it was just ground. It’s so pure. Doesn’t taste like supermarket hummus. We are both obsessed with ethnic food: Thai, Indian, Brazilian, Venezuelan. We’ve been known to come to the same restaurant twice in one day. The attention to detail is what we love about this place.
ML: We both love really old ethnic comfort food. Like Ethiopian food. L.A. has the largest Ethiopian community outside Ethiopia.
JS: We really appreciate it when an ethnic restaurant takes the time to give it that new-wave healthy twist. Old comfort food reexamined.

A plate of eggplant layered with onions, tomatoes and peppers is brought out.

What do you do when you’re not in the studio?
JS: We have several fun activities. Max is really into guitar. I like indoor rock climbing. I hike, go to Malibu. If I can discover some new place to see in L.A. every weekend, I’m happy.
ML: Wow. This looks amazing. Very exciting. A lot of my free time is not spent exploring, unfortunately. It’s spent writing songs and exploring that side of myself. Shall we? (he digs into the eggplant) I want to explore the Griffith Observatory. Maybe bring a bottle of wine, bring a girl. Wow, look at this. Really good. I’m not a huge fan of eggplant but this is delicious. A nice combination of garden-like flavors.

Chicken kabob and beef kabob are brought out with grilled veggies, brown rice, Tahini sauce, and yogurt cucumber sauce.

ML: We love LA. It’s a town that nurtures the feeling of expression. Everybody is here to do something. The entertainment business is ultimately a creative business. And everyone here is in it. This kabob is the shit.
JS: Our experience here has been anything but shallow. We came here to work for a meaningful network with a meaningful mission behind it. I feel like everywhere I turn there’s something to see. The other day I went to the Getty Museum. I was like, are you kidding me? No line, no wait. I can come here and have a glass a wine. In many ways this is the birthplace of the culture of the world, and I like that. You can go to Morocco to see posters of the movies that were made and conceived here.
ML: I love that you can get brown rice here. We won’t eat white rice because brown rice is so much better for you. We don’t eat in the studio because it’s all white bread and Skippy peanut butter. We carry our vitamins with us. Gotta be healthy. They make a great lentil meatball. Could we try one of those?

You’re both single. What’s dating like in L.A.?
JS: That’s where we sometimes tend to agree with the L.A. stereotype.
ML: We do put in a lot of effort.
JS: I’ve had the L.A. experience where I’ve been dating a girl and we go to a party and we can’t be holding hands at the party because there’s some producer there.”
ML: I’ve been single for ten months and enjoy being single. I’d like to meet a special somebody. I think that to some degree I enjoy the times I wish I had a girlfriend. I think that being romantically unhappy helps me write better songs. They say that Kafka ended four marriages because he couldn’t write. I love this sauce (pointing out the tahini). These are tasty, hun.

~Sara Costello


Natura Mediterranean Foods, 8250 W 3rd St. (323) 655-5551
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Restaurant Road-Test: Rouge Tomate
Trying Out the Healthy High End

Ultra-healthy haute cuisine is a very difficult combo to find on the Upper East Side. If your New Year’s resolutions specify no butter, cream and cheese, that would generally mean the end of fine dining above 59th St.-- don’t bother leaving the penthouse. ‘Til now… a New York outpost of the Brussels restaurant Rouge Tomate has opened in the now-defunct, ultra-mod bi-level Nicole Farhi store space-– and the colossal restaurant serves up a big menu of ultra-healthy organic foods at a four-star presentation level, price point and ingredient deck, courtesy of chef Jeremy Bearman.

Did I mention the space is big? It’s huge, almost bank-like in its expansiveness, with light wood surfaces, and many cream-colored and orange-red panels adding a very-Euro type of liveliness. But it’s expansive, with no space dividers, so if you’re having an affair, or a romantic date, this is not the place. But for a see-and-be-seen lunch or dinner in an ebullient setting, you’re good to go.

My friend and I tested it out for lunch, and came hungry. We went to the upstairs café – no reservations required and a little more affordable than the downstairs café. Upstairs is a better way to dip your toe in. One of our starters was a beet flatbread ($12), a special that day, with chopped red and yellow beets, fresh crumbled feta, fennel and parsley-- altogether, it made for a flavorful starter – fresh and vibrant. Another starter we had was the baby carrot terrine ($15) with peekytoe crab tabouleh, almond vinaigrette and mango. It was also a thumbs-up… the four disparate flavors danced very nicely together.

My entrée was a cauliflower risotto ($19)-- it’s usually a very heavy dish, and quite fattening; here, it comes with roasted garlic, and lemon confit. I asked the waiter what the secret to its healthfulness was – normally risotto has more butter and cheese than almost any other dish. He said it’s fennel stock and fennel puree that “keeps it all together.” That is admirable and interesting. But I was yearning a bit for the butter and cheese, as this dish, while pleasant (the lemon was a particularly nice twist), had an un-creamy quality that was, well, un-Italian. It was just OK. My friend chose a pasta dish-– angiolotti with delicate squash, watercress, warm mushroom vinaigrette, and an egg on top ($16). This was another flavor foursome, but none of the flavors in this one rose above bland. It sure tasted fresh – just not exciting.

Dessert, though, was the saddest affair. In theory, a Cara Cara Orange & Earl Grey Crème Caramel ($9, with frozen chocolate milk, candied oranges and chocolate butter cookies), sounded great. In reality, the little lump of crème caramel looked like poo. And it didn’t taste much better. Dessert is one place where you’ll really feel it when fat and sugar are cut out – and you’ll feel that here. A special way to sidestep this, though, is with the fresh juice drinks: My citrus punch, with a base of blood oranges and a range of berries, was refreshingly sweet.

Rouge Tomate is uneven-– but you gotta give it points for being ambitious-– it’s truly innovative in following a huge list of health and diet guidelines, and the presentation manages to be high-end and befitting the quite-high price point. Unfortunately, the uneven food, overly-sprawling atmosphere and corresponding spotty service (our waiter seemed very busy running back and forth to give true personal attention) keep this health shrine from reaching the top level yet.

~Stephen Milioti

Rouge Tomate, 14 E. 60th St., between Fifth and Madison Aves. (646) 861.0842

The Verdict:

Taste- 7/10
Looks- 7/10
Value- 6/10
Service- 7/10

Overall ... 27/40
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Snowboard Road-Test: Burton Malolo 2009
Talking Technical Turns

Burton Snowboards is a great example of doing one thing very well: The Burlington, VT-based company has been pumping out snowboards for over 30 years, and has acquired a following of successful athletes like Olympic gold medalist and Burton poster boy, Shaun White, who soar out of the half-pipe at record heights with custom-made decks.

The company, which deals in snowboards and related gear, outerwear and accessories, has the celeb cred. They carry over 50 different types of boards. But is it hype, or true quality? We set our intrepid road-tester up with the new 2009 Malolo ($549.95), and got the scoop:

The reason I choose the Malolo is mainly due to my current level and mind set of snowboarding. Gone are my 22-year-old days of hiking the half-pipe, like my buddy Shaun, or taking on a huge jump in the park at every waking breath. I still like to hit the pipe, yet my love now is powder, powder and more power. Steep and deep mountains, preferably in Jackson Hole Wyoming, Lake Tahoe or Canada.

The Malolo’s length and shape fuses a hybrid of freestyle and freeride performance – allowing me to either take that jump if it comes up or drowning in waist deep powder. The model comes in five different size options; a 149, 154, 158, 162 or 168cm long. Standing high at 5’11 and, um, well….girls don’t disclose their weight, I settled with the 154. Due to the board’s tapered shape I also sized down a few cm’s versus my normal size of 156. (A tapered board is where the width of the board’s nose is wider than the width of its tale.)

Recently, Mt. Snow Resort in Vermont hosted a huge snowboarding contest called the Winter Dew Tour. The top male and female snowboarders converged together in hopes to gain momentum for the 2010 Olympic Games in Vancouver, BC. I decided to make the trek from New York City and see how my board would do in various conditions considering the Weather Channel told me it’d dump about 10 inches of snow over Saturday night, making Sunday a chance to see how the board performed in both fresh tracks and on groomed corduroy trails.

What I found is the Malolo is brilliant for powder days and good for non-powder days. I learned, for my style of riding, I’d prefer another Burton board, a Custom X 56 for fast and icy conditions on the East Coast. That’s not going to prevent me from not riding the Malolo on the “right side”, but to me, it’s made for days with epic conditions where a helicopter is involved – whisking me away on my dream experience.

The cost of the board is reasonable too, considering you get more bang for your buck in its versatility. I wasn’t crazy about the graphics, but that can be fixed too! Burton has a custom made online buying option, Series 13 at Burton.com, where you can select any of its models and create your own board graphics, all for around $300 more than the board’s original cost. It’s tres tres chic couture, yet for snowboarders!

At the end of the weekend, I was happy, because all that matters is snowboarding down the mountain and having fun with friends.

~Jessica McMenamin

Overall Rating:
Value – 9
Looks – 7
Quality – 10
Performance – 10

Total ...36/40
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Restaurant Road-Test: The Libertine at Gild Hall
Decoding Todd English's Re-Interpreted Pub Fare

In order to understand The Libertine – the stuffily-named new restaurant at the new Gild Hall hotel on Wall St. – you need a little backgrounder on the hotel itself. It’s owned by Thompson Hotels, a company whose first venture, 60 Thompson, was a testament to late-‘90s tech-driven moneybag chic, with its private passkey rooftop lounge and velvet rope outside.

Times have generally changed since then, and things have toned down. Gild Hall reflects that in its general look – it’s more grown-up than 60 Thompson ever was, with less focus on show and more on details. And the design has also matured, courtesy of designer Jim Walrod: bright red walls contrast with huge white wall moldings for a Federalist-goes-mod look; the rooms have thick, substantial leather bed headboards and a splashy mix of prints; and a bi-level library bar featuring stately wood tones contrasted with swoopy seating surfaces, for a perfect yin-yang.

The restaurant lies within this style, with a tony-pub feel – though, as it’s Thompson’s wont to attract celebs, they got about as big a food star as you can to run the place: chef Todd English (responsible for tons of big restaurants in the U.S. and throughout NYC, most notably in big hotels, like Olives at the W Union Square). And it’s no small operation – it’s a bi-level space meant to recall swinging-‘70s London clubhouses with its ironically-old-school portraiture on the walls, rubbed-bronze accents, velvet chairs, and red leather banquettes over trippy Oriental rugs. And lots of bookshelves with books that look frequently-read and tattery-eared.

While he’s extremely attractive and TV-photogenic, and a brilliant businessperson, English is not known for taking huge culinary risk in his menus, and this place is not an exception. But what’s there is fun: cheeky, high-rent takes on hangover food, courtesy of executive chef Eben Leonard. Two really tasty examples of that are caviar sliders ($20) with quail eggs and crème fraiche, and a Kobe hot dog ($18) – both of which were expertly rendered. These smaller bar-style plates are the draw.

Sadly, the main course wasn’t as much of a hit. After chowing on the above, my friend ordered a rack of lamb and Moroccan shepherd’s pie ($28) for an entrée, and I had the roasted sea bass with grilled corn and salsa verde ($24). The lamb was bland and the Moroccan shepherd’s pie a little too minty-tasting, and the sea bass was just fine but very forgettable, with the salsa not enough to float it above average.

The service was OK. When we asked what a good wine might be to complement our meals, the waiter said “It really depends on your mood” – and he wasn’t being playful. He was serious. I asked him if he meant before or after my daily anti-depressant pill. That sort of started things downhill, and he did not really say much after that.

The overall verdict is that this is not a place I’d recommend people cab specifically down to the Financial District to have a full meal at. But if you’re down there and you want a “reinterpreted” pub snack and a cocktail, it’s more than good enough for that – and if you’re a design buff more than a foodie, you’ll be downright pleased.

~Stephen Milioti

The Libertine, 15 Gold St. (at Platt St.), 212.785.5950

The Verdict:
Taste- 7/10
Value- 7/10
Looks- 8/10
Service- 6/10

Total ... 28/40


First and third photos by SarahNYC
Second photo via Boston.com
Fourth photo via Eater.com
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Camera Road-Test: Mamiya RB67
Photographer D.Wiafe on Shooting-Day Snafus & His Cherished eBay Find

South London photographer D.Wiafe has a knack for turning everyday scenes of urban life, into vivid stills that are almost cinematic in nature. D.Wiafe’s endearingly gripping photo series of British youth culture, such as ‘Borough Kids,’ show a tough yet endearing side of what it means to be young and British.

When he’s not shooting, D.Wiafe is a resident lecturer at Coventry University, and founder of the artist-teacher scheme ‘Our World Untitled.’ Inspired, we sat down with him for a bit, and got the info on his camera of choice, and more:

What have you been up to lately on the photography front?
Completing a series entitled ‘Girl Story’; a new piece of work that explores girl culture in the electronic age. I’ve also been mentoring and helping develop the next generation of photographers.

How would you describe your style?
I wouldn’t. My photographs have their signature qualities, but ultimately they’re a visual extension of myself: my thoughts, my interpretations.

Who would you love to shoot that you haven’t already and why?
Perhaps Sia, for her eccentricities as an artist and the intimacy of the narratives in her songwriting. I’d also like to explore, at some point, the gap between the traditional and modernity in contemporary Japanese youth culture.

What’s the worst experience you’ve had on a shoot, or trying to get a shoot with someone?
There have been clichés, such as being stood up on shoots or being asked to shoot a grime artist with their jeans hanging off their bums. The worst experience was a shoot with Kidulthood’s Noel Clarke. For aesthetic reasons, I had to replace the biography of Barack Obama he was reading with a Rudyard Kipling hardback. We didn’t realize that it had a Swastika on the front cover. When I gave the book to Noel, he had this look on his face, like “what’s this racist business?” It was then I looked at the front cover and noticed the symbol. It’s likely the symbol was published in its non-Nazi context... but valuable lessons were learned that day.

What is the make and model of your favorite camera and why?
My first camera, the Mamiya RB67. It’s an old model Mamiya that’s almost a relic now. I grew with this camera, came to understand my process and the play of light through it. This history has made it important to me.

How much did you spend on it?
I brought it on eBay years ago from a wedding photographer who was turning digital for £700. It hurt my pockets at the time, but has since been a worthwhile investment.

You mentioned that it’s your most reliable camera…how so?
It’s been dropped, survived British rainfall and yet works perfectly, and is still the camera I prefer to shoot my personal work on.

Does it take better shots than other cameras?
Not necessarily. There are more advanced Mamiya models and Hasselblad kits that technically give you more range in terms of aperture and lenses. For me it’s a love affair with its ability to endure and the amount of detail from light it translates to film.

What’s the best feature on the camera?
When it pops out of the camera bag, people take you seriously instead of mistaking you for a kid who just passed his Photography A-Level.

How many of them have you owned?
Thankfully, only one, though I can’t say the same about the film backs.

Can you show us your favorite shot that has been taken with that camera, and tell us why you like it?
One of them would be ‘Away From,’ from the Borough Kids series. It was one of those moments where you catch that perfect marriage between your personal vision, the sitter’s emotional depths and the camera’s ability to capture the detail in the scene and commit the lighting set-up to film.

What’s the worst camera that you’ve ever used and why?
The same Mamiya RB67. It can also be a temperamental piece of equipment if you don’t treat it with care. It’s a love/hate relationship.

~Donald Crunk @ Styleslut

All photo by D.Wiafe
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Boutique Road-Test: Duo
Sister Act, the Minds Behind the East Village's New Shop

As the well-known aphorism goes— two heads are better than one. And pixie-haired proprietors, Wendy and LaRae Kangas, of the new downtown boutique Duo are on a mission to prove just that. Having honed their fashion curatorial skills at other popular New York boutiques, these Minnesota natives now have their own three-week-old store, nestled amongst some of the East Village’s best shopping destinations— neighbor to Fabulous Fanny's and Local Clothing. Stocking an impressive mix of rare hand-picked vintage, from Moschino to Dior, and up-and-coming independent designers, the new girls on the block also keep a solid focus on putting local goods in the limelight— utilizing New York and Los Angeles-based brands manufactured in the United States.

Joining the sisters for a first look at the store, psychoPEDIA chatted with the blonde beauties on their favorite American-made clothing and accessories lines and other dynamic duos:

Where did you get the name Duo?
L: Duo is for the modern and vintage mix. And then, of course, because of the two sisters, we’re also a duo. It’s a double duo!

What are some of the standout US-made lines you carry?
L: Our feature line is Keller. She makes things like a little shirt-dress, schoolboy blazers, skinny-strap racer back— layering pieces, with small details that make it special.
W: Her name is Kelly Clark, and she lives in Williamsburg. Her stuff is very simple, and it’s all produced in Midtown. She does shoes, as well.
L: She gets them produced in LA at a dance shoe-making factory, so they’re extremely comfortable and basically melt to your foot. Her motive behind everything is to be very simple and easy to wear, and that’s our aesthetic, too.

Any other unique apparel brands?
W: We carry an organic line, Velvet Leaf, by two sisters based out in LA. It’s the only line we have that’s not New York-based. They’re in their 20’s and are just starting out. We really want to help smaller lines that aren’t selling at the high department stores and other stores around here. They do fun pieces like a V-neck t-shirt with cut-outs on the sleeves and cutesy rompers. The line has a younger feel to it. We also carry an East Village designer who’s just finishing school at FITSah Cavalcante. He does garments like dark, Victorian-inspired silk chiffon shawls.
L: His pieces are all handmade by him personally.

What about locally-crafted accessories?
W: Our feature jewelry designer is Wendy Nichol, who lives in Park Slope. Her pieces are handmade out of her studio in Soho. She uses metals like sterling silver and 24k gold vermeil. A stylist recommended her to me, and since then, she has blown up and a few celebrities like Drew Barrymore, Scarlett Johansson, and Amy Winehouse, have worn her pieces.
L: We also carry Anna Kula, who lives in the West Village. All of her hats are high quality wool and handmade at her in-home studio. We love her floppy wool berets, which are super soft.

Do you believe there’s a distinct difference between US and foreign-made garments?
W: Yes, in the fabrics and how pieces are sewn together.
L: And polyester— we won’t go there. Comfort-wise, the fit is a better, and natural fibers just feel better.

Are you two into the eco-conscious clothing movement?
L: We’re green friendly— with recycled and vintage garments— so we wanted to carry at least one organic line. It works, because it’s what we wear. And we didn’t want to have to stick to an era.
W: We have flannel shirts next to silk capes from the 1900s.

Being sisters in addition to co-workers, do you ever bump heads with the direction of the store?
W: We are very collaborative when picking out pieces, since we are so tight with each other.
L: We try on every single piece of our vintage. We’ll pop out of a fitting room, look at each other and say, “I just picked that out!” We’ll creep ourselves out a little bit.
W: Too much time together…

Since you guys are two-rific, who is your favorite superhero duo?
W: Batman and Robin.

Musical duo?
W: Johnny Cash and June Carter.
L: Adam Green and Kimya Dawson of The Moldy Peaches— they’re a good description of us.
W: The Ying Yang Twins.
L: We have every album!

And last but not least, favorite designer duo?
W: We love YSL and his partner, but we’re more into the real people over the super high-end, although we love fashion and get a lot of inspiration from it.
L: Velvet Leaf—that’s a real duo in fashion now, and it’s inspiring because they’re doing it all themselves.

~Leann Peterson


First, second, third, and sixth photos by Leann Peterson
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Road-Test: Tanda Light Therapy
We Go Under the Rays

The glow of summer sun is long gone. Winter skin has officially emerged -- and with it, this year, a mask of stress has been etched on the face. Sun exposure is greatly diminished, giving way to seasonal blues: weight gain, carbo craving, lethargy and sleep problems. There is a proposed cure, though: Light therapy, also known as Photo Therapy, is thought to alter the circadian rhythms and suppress the body’s natural release of melatonin. Together these cause biochemical changes in the brain that help reduce or control symptoms of seasonal mood disorders. LED light wavelengths have also been effective in treating acne, eczema, and psoriasis.

Cosmetic companies are now introducing LED light devices that mimic exact light frequencies used in office treatments to help improve skin texture, color and tone while diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Dr. Perricone has come out with PerriconeMD Light Renewal Skin Rejuvenation Therapy ($335.00) and L’Oreal has one in the works. The newest one out, from Tanda, is called Tanda’s Regenerate Anti-Aging Light Therapy Treatment, and that's the one we decided to test.

In the past I’ve had success with prescription creams that reduce rosacea and stop the occasional outbreak of eczema -- which I tend to get after a few months in a dry overheated apartment -- but am a skeptic when it comes to over-the-counter creams or devices that promise to erase the signs of aging. The advice of my dermatologist, Dr Grace Pac, stay with me -- “use Neutrogena with an SPF” -- and perhaps some fillers for the age issue. But wisdom of the ages has taught me to be more willing and open – so I decided to give Tanda's a try.

With the red rays pressed against my face (I realized after a few days it doesn’t work any better with my face actually touching the plastic head), I began once a day. The system comes with a cleanser designed to enhance the light treatment and an anti-aging serum. The cleanser made my skin feel dry. Not a good sign, so I reverted back to my velvety winter milk cleanser by Suki. Once a day, as suggested after cleansing, I shined the Tanda on my face. The light is emitted in concentrated rays. Like an electric toothbrush, the device beeps to let you know how much time to stay on a particular area.

Because there is no cream to be slapped on, no pill to take and little effort required, I didn’t look for results – occasionally I even forgot to use it. Until, about a week later, a few people asked if I had been in the sun. Then I noticed some brightness to my face. This gave me incentive. I used the device consistently until the light began to fade. The Tanda turned on for a few seconds, then off. I recharged -- still no luck.

Frustrated, I went back to the less-immediate ways that require a bit of discipline to get vitality and glow back in my face: at least eight hours of sleep a night, lots of water, a mud mask from Alaska Glacial Mud Co, a yoga class at Kula -- and $275 back in my pocket.

~Sara Costello

Tanda Light Therapy, available exclusively at Sephora;
Tanda Skincare for more info

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Bowling Road-Test: All-Star Lanes
All American, Cut-Price Fun (but Shame About the Décor)

Brick Lane -- most fondly known for its large Bangladeshi community and vast selection of restaurants specializing in some of the finest Anglo-Indian cuisine anywhere -- is fast becoming known for its large retro community and huge array of fine vintage boutiques. Unfortunately, the street once celebrated for its East-meets-West diversity is now becoming engulfed by the Western love of alcoholic over-indulgence, and dresses from the 1950s. It was somewhat inevitable, then, that one day a company specializing in catering to both lovers of alcohol and retro-chic would take the opportunity to cash in on the Western end of Brick Lane.

Cue All-Star Leisure Group Limited, to open the doors to All-Star Lanes, their 3rd ‘boutique’ bowling establishment, on Brick Lane. Co-directors Mark von Westenholz and Adam Breeden promise “a marriage of bowling, cocktails, the finest diner cuisine and unforgettable music.”

Marriage, it seems, is not the harmonious union it used to be. As we all know, 10-pin bowling rose to fame in the 1950s, and for some has never really shaken its fey ‘50s charm, one which All-Star lanes has taken and halfheartedly run away with. We are greeted by well-turned-out staff -- all ‘50s dresses, red lips and Happy Days hair dos -- but upon further inspection, it soon becomes clear this uniform resembles that of a fashion-conscious TGI Fridays. Funnily enough the menu isn’t that far off Fridays either, featuring wings, ribs, burgers -- all including the word ‘American’ in their description. First impressions are important, and sadly for All-Star Lanes, the first thing you see as you walk in is the restaurant area, which can be best described as ‘Ikea does Grease.’

But, on to the bowling, which is what people primarily come for: one game is surprisingly well priced for ‘boutique’ bowling, at 5.50 pounds per game (about $10), which rules out the popular notion that the lanes were primarily built for the city boys of nearby Liverpool St and Bank.

Beyond the obvious hilarity and enjoyment a good game of bowling can bring, the lanes were a little disappointing -- a lot more could have been done with the space. It’s stylish, yes, but there’s so much more potential here than a whole wall of black-painted breezeblocks and some funky lighting. If you are going to go for the ‘50s theme you really need to go for it -- otherwise you have to go for the other end of the spectrum, and that’s the super bowling complex with arcades, flashing lights, loud music, the whole shebang. All-Star Lanes lies somewhere flaccidly in the middle.

Neighboring the six lanes is the venue’s saving grace: a super-smart bar 100 times more inviting than the restaurant. It boosts several curvy leather-clad booths and a well stocked bar boosting several rare American spirits and difficult-to-pull-off cocktails, that judging by the looks on the recipient’s faces, were successfully rendered. It is also twice as packed as the 200-seat restaurant area, despite being a quarter of the size. All Star Leisure would have done very well to stick to just the cocktail bar and lanes at the front.

Either way, by the look of the packed lanes and the line for the bowling shoes, it already seems that All Star’s Brick Lane gamble has already paid off. The future can only offer more gain for them: As we speak plush apartments and two new shopping centered train stations are flying up all within 10 minutes of the lanes. This will no doubt lead to a never-ending influx of cocktail-guzzling, pin-hungry corporate groups and parties.

~Kevin Soar

All-Star Lanes, 95 Brick Lane, London E16QL. 020 7426 9200

The Verdict:

Looks: 2/10
Fun: 9/10
Service: 7/10
Price: 7/10

Overall ... 25/40
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Road-Test: Late-Night Vyner Street
Finding the Next Gen of Young British Artists in Six Steps

With the fantastical claim of having the “highest concentration of artists in the world,” Hackney, East London still remains the advertising agencies’ main port of call to head-hunt graphic designers, illustrators, filmmakers and many other creatives to push their wares. This geographical focus of artists developed itself in the ‘80s, when cheap rent and large amounts of empty warehouse spaces made Hoxton Square, Curtain Road, and Charlotte Road in Shoreditch the adopted home of British artists.

Things rapidly changed when the White Cube opened its large, fancy doors on Hoxton Square in 2000; the area was then transformed into the condition we find it in now: ‘cool.’ But with that tag the inevitable came -- where the ad agencies first came to headhunt, they now came to home-hunt. The yuppies flooded into this quirky newly-discovered area, rents went up, and artists were forced to move to a cheaper and (back then) more unattractive area. Most of them only managed to budge less than a mile further east, and the key result of that is the rise -- and rise -- of Vyner Street.

In the same way the yuppies looted their beloved Hoxton, the artists frog-marched themselves into Vyner Street, and what had been the epicenter of London’s rag trade was quickly transformed into a hotbed of over a dozen galleries and studios.

Time Out magazine, in conjunction with the British Arts Council, has recently come up with the idea of First Thursdays, whereby every first Thursday of the month, East London opens its galleries and museums till late at night. This December 4th sees Vyner Street as the place to be: It will host what can be best described as its own mini art festival: there is free beer, a pub and loads of exhibitions. Despite this, there doesn’t usually tend to be much artistic debate and consideration going on-– it’s more hanging out, drinking and flirting. Free booze+artists+locals+street usually equals trouble -- but to make your experience as a Vyner first-timer a perfect one, and a lot less scary, stick with these below steps, and you shall surely experience Vyner Street to the max, and discover a new generation of artists along the way.

1: Get started
Get all your friends together. You’ll probably lose them all, as this just happens in festival situations like these. But the idea of going with a big family is fun, right? Make sure to get to Vyner Street in time, and start your Vyner-walk at 7pm the latest. Galleries close at 9ish, so you should get the most out of it and visit all of them.

2: The Off License (for drink)
Since we all love a bargain (and because free beers run out quickly at the galleries), buy your beers at the Off License. It’s half the price of the beer at the pub, and you will appreciate the helping hands of the local shopkeepers later on as you stagger home. Don’t feel bad about drinking on the street either; everyone on Vyner Street walks around drinking out of cans and wine bottles. It’s a hedonist feast.

3: Art
With a continuously changing program of up-and-coming as well as established artists, we advise you to not just stick to two or three galleries, but devote your entire evening to Vyner Street, and check out all the galleries from top to bottom of the street. In case you want to check in advance which exhibitions are currently on, websites such as Art Rabbit and First Thursday are very useful.

4: Drink (again)
There is a great traditional British pub on Vyner Street -- The Victory. With its free jukebox, dusty carpet, pool table, rather smelly half outside-half inside toilets and drunk regulars at the bar, it might not be the classiest place in the world, but it sure is fun. Lots of the gallery people and local artists hang out here on First Thursday evenings, so it’s a great spot for people watching, networking and general schmoozing.

5: Eat
A small glass of beer might be equal in calories to eating two whole Subways with extra cheese, but since you skipped your dinner to rush to Vyner Street, you’ll probably be starving by now. Around the corner from Vyner Street, on Mare Street, are hundreds of great cheap Vietnamese restaurants. Our own favorite is Tres Viet, which also has a Bring Your Own booze policy. (PS: go for the salt and pepper squid and dry papaya salad here; they’re both fab.)

6: The after party (drink again, again)
There are three things you can do now: go home, get even more drunk and head back to the Victory, or drink cocktails in style and dance with the avant garde at the super-cool Bistrotheque around the corner from Vyner Street. This bar/restaurant/theater happens to be run by the same people that turned the East London boozer The Bricklayers Arms into the hangout for the YBAs (Young British Artists) in the ‘90s. Launching in 2004, The Bistroteque offers arty dinners, burlesque and tranny shows, not only to the now older and more successful group of artists to whom you should cling to for free drinks; but also to the new generation of cool kids, such as Mika Doll, Ryan Styles, Jodie Harsh, Scottee, and hubby/artist/printmaker James Unsworth-- who you should cling to for, well, another after-party.

~Freddie Janssen


For more info, see:
artrabbit.com
firstthursdays.co.uk
bistrotheque.com
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Restaurant Road-Test: Sheridan Square
Classic Eatery Favors High-End Hush over Celeb-Grabbing

The West Village has gone through a radical transformation in just 40 short years. In the ‘60s it was filled with hippies, war protestors, and gay and lesbian couples happy to live their lives relatively free from street-side discrimination. Today it still has all of those groups – but it also contains Cosmo-sipping Sex and the City girls, celebrity residents, baby carriages a plenty, about 1,000 Marc Jacobs stores, and designer cupcakes.

At the crux of this historic area is Sheridan Square – it’s actually sort of a triangle, really, down around 7th Ave. in the West Village’s literal heart. Nearby, many chic restaurants (remember Moomba?) have lived and died in the past decade and a half, and the latest outpost in this area is called, quite simply, Sheridan Square. The restaurant features chef Franklin Becker, who did time both at the uber-successful Brasserie in the Seagram Building in midtown, as well as a stint as Ron Perelman’s personal chef.

Design-wise, this place is about longevity rather than flash-in-the-pan: multi-toned wood planks, black and white photography, brown leather banquettes and a panoply of masculine earth tones give off a vibe that’s unexciting yet also unpretentious and somewhat elegant. It’s not really the best for a hot date or business dinner where you want to impress ten over-the-top clients, but for a quiet upscale dinner with someone you like, it fits the bill.

On a Saturday night, the restaurant was happily crowded (which isn’t the case everywhere in NYC these days) – the maitre’d and waiter were downright St. Louis-friendly. “If you have any questions, ask me – we want you to be happy,” the waiter said – and they had no idea my friend and I were in reviewing this place.

We started with an escargot appetizer, which was good but not quite as garlicky and slap-your-butt-with-your-tongue good as in the best French places. A special soup of chicken stock, delicate sweet sausage and leeks was much more successful – a real autumnal joy. The menu touts its “cherrywood-grilled” items as an entrée option – my friend had a medium-rare rib-eye steak, and I had the trout. My fish was really well done, oily enough to have a lot of flavor, but not too much; the steak, said my friend (and I agreed), was just average. That wood-burning oven just made it taste too -- woody. Finally, a foie gras torchon was a well-oiled machine from this former Brasserie alum, and would do great in any good French restaurant in the city. The flavor here – vibrant American with a tinge of French – is well-executed – but, to be honest, it has been done before.

Dessert was very good – a delicate strawberry shortcake that was feather-light, and the perfectly-executed S’mores – about the highest-end version you’ll ever find, with thick chocolate ganache. That dessert says pretty much everything you need to know about this place – everything is well-executed – it just doesn’t hit you over the head as new or innovative. If you’re the type to wear a flashy baguette-diamond Rolex, it’s not for you. If you’ve got a vintage Patek Philippe on your wrist with nary a logo, though, you’ll appreciate this place’s very classical, un-Sex and the City, non-blingy vibe.

~Stephen Milioti

Sheridan Square, 134 7th Ave. South (at W. 10th St.), 212.352.2237

Rating:
Looks- 8/10
Taste- 7/10
Value- 7/10
Service- 8/10

Total ...30/40

First photo by Kreiger for Eater
Second photo via New York Journal
Third photo by Steven Richter for Insatiable Critic
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Venue Road-Test: The Bell House
Gowanus Welcomes Its New Hideaway Hangout

For the last decade, New Yorkers have witnessed the gentrified waistband of Williamsburg nightlife bust its gut. Spilling over into the Greenpoint, Bushwick and Bed-Stuy areas, everyone has unfortunately seen the rise of the term "hipster" in vernacular. With so much in flux, one time-honored question remains: Does anyone know where a girl can get a decent drink around here?" The best advice: Go west-- southwest, to be exact.

Welcoming a solution to the pervasive problem, the people behind Union Hall-- purveyors of the cozy library-themed pub, basement music venue, and indoor bocce ball court, teamed with the owners of Brooklyn Heights' Floyd for a larger endeavor-- The Bell House, which opened in September. As their respective reputations had swollen, so did the crowds. And the bottlenecks one had to maneuver seemed impenetrable, especially if coupled with thirst. Not to mention, just the caliber of the bands booked for Union Hall alone merited a larger space. So they looked towards the previously uncharted territory of Brooklyn's Gowanus Canal.

Perched on the timberline between Park Slope's classic brownstones and the industrial Red Hook warehouses, this location feels tucked away yet is actually located conveniently only two blocks from the 4th Avenue F train. Once crowds hang a left onto 7th Street, residences peel away on the walk downhill. After crossing 3rd Avenue, the reaction may be a nervous "Do I have this address right?" but continuing west leads right to the doorstep. If anything, the deserted atmosphere makes the actual entry into the Bell House more dramatic.

After an ID check with one of Union Hall's trademarked good-natured security guys, duck into a spacious lounge with no bottleneck in sight. While this 1920s structure was formerly the storefront that housed a printing press, the new setting eradicates any memory of heavy metal equipment with the wainscotting, gentle lights, and cushy seats around the perimeter. The bar runs the entire width of the front so there is room for everyone. In house special concoctions, named in honor of landmark indie albums ($6 to $8) are for the taking-- and specifically notable choices include in the Pinkerton (a la Weezer), Parklife (courtesy of Blur), and the piece de resistance White Light White Heat (inspired by the The Velvet Underground, $13). Draft, can, and bottled beers abound-- and the wine list (mulled included) is set to expand this winter. Pad your stomach lining with fresh handmade DUB Pies from the Down Under Bakery, and special events and concerts bring huaraches and pupusas from the famous Red Hook Vendors, with more menu offerings coming.

After a second round of drinks, patrons can head toward the second part of the venue: a true one-two-punch to the incredible setting. Pass the ticket booth, obtain the magic hand stamp, and enter the true heart of Bell House: 25-foot-high, arched wooden ceilings preside over a grandiose stage set off by the Twin Peaks-influenced red drapes. The stage right holds yet another bar-- this one slightly elevated, appropriate for vertically-challenged spectators to perch on the steps for a better view. Unlike many venues, there are no columns to obstruct the view and a sweeping vista is lit by giant chandeliers. And the sound system is state of the art, serving 350 concert-goers (or 200 seated for mellow events).

The opening weekend offered free shows by Matt Pond PA and the The Lilys (hot off their All Tomorrow's Parties appearance). Since then, the Born Ruffians, The Veils, Liam Finn, Plants and Animals, and Grizzly Bear side project Department of Eagles have graced the stage, along with Eugene Mirman, Michael Showalter, and Aziz Ansari bringing up the comedy end.

With room for everyone now that Union Hall's Secret Science Club will take place at this new venue, Bell House will continue with the popular Outsmarted: Music Trivia Night series, hosted by Indie Rock icons. And as for the house specialty, drinks will rotate seasonally, with a Daydream Nation cocktail (for fans of Sonic Youth) in the near future. Overall, the venue leaves little reason to not partake-- providing 3-hour-long 2-for-1 happy hours on weekdays and an ample host of cabs on 4th Avenue heading back into Manhattan.

The Bell House merits a standing ovation for many things-- the affable staff, clean bathrooms, well-chosen soundtrack pumping in the front lounge, and stellar lineups offered in the back. But most notable is the overall spirit of the place, derived from the creators who stuck out their necks with a vision to create one of the most welcoming spaces in the city from scratch. And the fact that patrons might bump into Carl Newman or David Cross is icing on the cake.

~Abbey Braden

The Bell House, 149 7th St, Brooklyn NY. (718) 643-6510


First and fifth photos by Sam Horine
Second, fourth, and sixth photos, courtesy of The Bell House
Third photo by Abbey Braden
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Restaurant Road-Test: Porchetta
Porking Out in the East Village

Porchetta is what you get when you take a whole pig, roast it, gut it, stuff it back with its innards, and impart plenty of special seasoning. Might sound disgusting on paper to a steak-eatin’ Texan, but it’s about as integral to Italian culture as Vespas and Valentino. It’s true Euro comfort food.

New York chef Sara Jenkins has made this rich dish the raison d’etre of her new East Village restaurant entitled, quite aptly, Porchetta. The menu is simple – centered squarely around the title track – and you can count the menu items on less than two hands. It’s all very focused.

And Jenkins has the experience for it: She has worked in Manhattan Italian restaurants like Il Buco, and has her own take on porchetta, with pork loins from Hampshire hogs wrapped in pork bellies and seasoned with thyme, rosemary, sage, garlic, fennel pollen, salt and pepper. A Saturday evening visit to the restaurant with a friend had us try two of the most iconic specialties on the brief menu – the porchetta sandwich, and the platter. The platter of straight porchetta is a purist’s dream – the meat is tender, juicy and rich – very good, except for a little too liberal a dose of salt. Yes, salt is important for a food like this – no one wants un-seasoned pork -- but it’s just too much of it, especially considering all the other great seasonings. That saltiness is more tempered in the porchetta sandwich, where the rich meat is nicely counterbalanced by warm, buttery mixed Italian greens, including green beans that are sublimely garlicky – the whole thing melts into a Sullivan St. bakery ciabatta roll. Excellent, this one.

One sour note was the vegetarian nod here – a mozzarella sandwich with peppers, herbs and tomatoes. It’s just an also-ran among the porchetta – bland, boring, and won’t give vegetarians a reason to venture into this house of pork worship.

Of special note: the low prices. There’s great timing here, with this place opening during one of our greatest financial downturns ever, with even moderately wealthy folks trying to return their Birkin bags for a refund. At only $9, that porchetta sandwich is not only delicious, but it’s quite a value. Another value, at $4, is the side of roasted potatoes – also a little too salty, but peppered with porchetta “crispy ends,” excellent autumn comfort food. My friend and I got full here for well under $40 – same price as Harry’s Burritos nearby, but ten times more sophisticated in taste. (PS – no alcohol yet – a beer and wine license is pending.)

The service is perfectly pleasant – innocuous enough, if a little flat and frowny. But you don’t except smiles at East Village places. And it’s smart-looking – a nice aesthetic moment combining rustic and modern. Though it’s designed largely for takeout, a marble countertop, steely stools and quaint black-and-white floor tiling is a pleasant place to eat your pork in a fashionable, nouveau-East-Village-looking environment. Overall, this spot has good timing, strong quality, and comes out as a really strong contender, provided they can stop tipping that salt shaker so much.

~Stephen Milioti


Porchetta, 110 E. 7th St. (212) 777.2151

Rating:
Taste- 7.5/10
Looks- 7.5/10
Value- 9.5/10
Service- 7/10

Overall ... 31.5/40


First photo by kathyylchan via Flickr
Second photo by dpstyles via Flickr
Third & fourth photos by ultraclay! via Flickr
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Road-Test: The Gonzo Tapes: The Life and Work of Dr. Hunter S. Thompson
Sobering Wisdom Within Rambling Madness

While the last few years have seen cultural legacies like Johnny Cash posthumously exploited, the digital age has also allowed for some well-deserved, high-quality archival resurrections. To that end, 2008 bore witness to Alex Gibney’s revered documentary, Gonzo, The Life And Work of Dr. Hunter S. Thompson. The film was put together to ensure the journalist/notorious hedonist’s public profile wasn't relegated to fanboy hysteria and reductive conjecture. The movie’s greatest resource, fittingly, was Thompson himself-- or at least, the writer’s ghost, as exhumed through self-recorded cassettes dug up in Colorado by Gibney, Gonzo producer Eva Orney, and Thompson archivist Don Fleming.

These tapes, spanning the years 1965 and ’75-- from his nascent stages writing for publications like The Nation to the peak of his counter-culture notoriety-- are being released October 28 in a five-disc audio box set, produced by Fleming, titled The Gonzo Tapes: The Life And Work of Dr. Hunter S. Thompson.

Without the aid of a visual narrative, cinematic editing, and talking-head testimony, The Gonzo Tapes can become arduous listening. There is plenty of requisite madness, particularly as the chronologically structured set meanders into its halfway stretches. But Disc 1, recorded during Thompson’s year on the road with the Hell's Angels (later published as Hell’s Angels: A Strange And Terrible Saga) is the most coherent, concise distillation of the intellect, instinct, and charisma that endeared him to editors, readers, and subjects.

Like an undercover agent infiltrating the mafia or a drug ring, Thompson engenders the Angels’ trust by effortlessly empathizing with their dilemma (modern outlaw in search of the American Dream through radical means). And Thompson’s ability to communicate the complexity of their mission was a product of his non-judgmental thoughtfulness. After interviewing Angels chapter leaders like Terry The Tramp about everything from the law to non-violent intake of peyote (while listening to Joan Baez), Thompson concludes they are not thugs, but merely a part of the grand tradition of outsiders.

But by Disc 2, Thompson’s descent into neuroses, addiction, and megalomania take grip. Both Discs 2 and 3 play out over the course of he and Oscar Zeta Acosta’s (the inspiration for Benicio del Toro’s role in Terry Gilliams’s Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas) misadventures during the National District Attorney’s Conference On Narcotics & Dangerous Drugs in Las Vegas. While these might titillate Thompson followers, they make a sobering impression in the larger context of the collection.

Including a lot of hotel-room and road-trip antics, Thompson excoriates Acosta, saying, “You’ve put that fuckin Chivaz Regal in the coke. What have you done? You asshole... That’s a crime against nature,” or Acosta doing a faux-politicized, glorified "Crank Yankers" style routine when he badgers a phone operator for several minutes for the location of the American Dream, because a friend told him that, “If you’re in Las Vegas, look for the American Dream, cause that’s where you’ll find it.”

However, the further Thompson removes himself from journalistic objectivity and inserts himself into the story, the more valuable the tapes are, in that they allow listeners to step in as fly on the wall. Throughout stretches of excessive mumbling are humanizing touches, like Brewer & Shipley’s “One Toke Over The Line” rollicking out of his convertible’s radio, or Led Zeppelin’s “Whole Lotta Love” blaring during a particularly wacked-out, blacked-out hotel monologue. Given how Thompson was so self-consciously hip, it’s bizarre to listen in on his selective musical interests, and how they parallel the spirited highs and near-despondent almost-lows of his travels.

There are also moments of priceless, unplanned irony. When Neil Diamond’s “I Am, I Said” can be made out beneath Thompson’s diction while he urinates and declares, “Anybody that is in search of the American dream needs a lawyer, a doctor and a bodyguard, because there’s no other way to look for it without that sort of guidance and counseling,” you can’t help but smile at the kismet collision.

The final two discs in The Gonzo Tapes require the most attention. Disc 5, in particular, is largely negligible as eavesdropping, outside of casual, agitated references to Washington Post Editor Ben Bradlee and its publisher, Katherine Graham, Rolling Stone publisher Jann Wenner and conversation with renowned reporter Gloria Emerson that should satiate journalism geeks. But given the abbreviated 1975 tapes cover a relatively fruitless Thompson tenure in Saigon, the snippets lack nostalgic meat to chew on.

Disc 4, then, could have arguably been The Gonzo Tapes’ cutoff. At this point, burned out following the 1972 presidential campaign and generally drug-addled, Thompson regressed into his most tangential thought comas. In the midst of putting together a Rolling Stone piece titled "Cocaine Papers By Sigmund Freud," Thompson, having been abusing the drug quite liberally, makes feral animal noises for seconds on end, and responds to visitors with paranoid threats. That is, when not musing on a never-completed masterwork dubbed Guts Ball, about which he concluded he “may as well just make a Broadway play out of it too. Screen, live drama, novel, the whole thing. Guts Ball: The Great American Novel. Use flashbacks and dialogue. [People] mumbling back and forth to each other about lost dreams and memories, nightmares that come back on them, so nobody knows who’s crazy after a while.”

But as evidenced in that last stream of consciousness, the central themes from seven years earlier in Bass Lake are still there, as they were during his travels with Acosta in Las Vegas: the search for dreams and happiness, even if they fall outside of others’ comprehension.

This is ultimately where The Gonzo Tapes prove most useful, both as self-contained prose and historical artifact. It almost helps that these cassettes posses enormous chunks of narcotic-induced candor. We get the motivation behind the madness that created the man’s mythos, and a keener sense of sympathy for why the American Dream ultimately failed him, even if the totality of the recordings is served better in a theatrical medium that can tighten his decades of musings like a screw. It’s all too poignant, then, that these fossilized reflections and observations emerged now-- just a week prior to Election Day, no less-- a time in which Thompson’s hope may have finally been restored, and his fear and loathing may have been given cause to subside.

~Kenny Herzog
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Road-Test: Billa's Obsessions
The Photographer Talks Bikes & Fake Chanel

Picture the scene: You’re at a club; you’ve had a few too many beers, and you’re dancing like John Travolta from Saturday Night Fever. The last thing you want is a photographer shoving his camera in your face, so you can see yourself in all your goofy glory on some party blog, the next day.

But if someone like London-based photographer Billa was taking your photo, you probably wouldn’t mind. A contributor to magazines like i-D, Vogue, and XLR8R, Billa is a key documenter of London’s colorful club-scene. One look through his Flickr webpage, and you’re transported into a world full of extravagant club kids and cross-dressing queens-- all in glorious Technicolor. A courier by day and photographer by night, Billa also recently shot the new cover for Super Super Magazine of singer Santogold.

psychoPEDIA grilled the photog about his love of bikes and fake Chanel goods:

What have you been up to lately on the photography front?
The main thing was being in the "3am Eternal exhibition alongside Wolfgang Tillmans, Nan Goldin and Mark Leckey, to name a few. Also, I just covered backstage for London Fashion Week for the British Fashion Council again.

Do you ever get bored of going to clubs?
That’s like saying, “Do I get tired of boozing?” I must admit, the clubs don’t seem as good as a few years back, but there are still a few that I enjoy a lot-- "Nuke Them All" being one of my favorites. What’s the wildest thing you’ve ever seen in a club?
I think the craziest thing I saw was at the last "Nuke Them All." A naked guy was swaying from side to side whilst stroking his huge schlong, all night long.

What's something about yourself you want the public to know that they might not know already?
I get rid of my hangovers by working as a cycle courier in the daytime.

Why are you so fanatical about bikes?
I hate public transport and find that having a bike is essential to living in London – there’s no hanging around and they’re quicker too. I was on the Tube the other day to pick my girlfriend up from the airport and the guy opposite was constantly grabbing his crotch whilst the man next to me was cleaning his ears with a bit of torn up newspaper. Need I say more?

What bikes do you own?
I own four bikes. In descending order of cost: the Eai Bareknuckle track bike (fixed gear) which I built up, the Iro Angus track bike (fixed)-- also built myself, the Azonic Steelhead Pro single speed (fixed), once again, built by myself, and then the pub bike, which I found without a front wheel around the corner from my house. Having had so many bikes stolen, I now only use the pub bike when venturing out on an evening.

What is your dream bike?
I’ve recently been looking for a Colnago 80's frame, so I can build a classic racer. There are too many fools riding around Shoreditch on fixed gears these days.

How did you first get into bikes?
I got into them seriously after seeing my first Tour de France on TV. After that, I got a cheapish racer and used to ride 400 miles a week on it when I lived in Wales. Then I got into mountain biking when I moved to London and started riding fixed gear bikes.

Are bikes more important to you than women?
Certainly not, but they’re definitely more reliable.

On a different note, how did you get into an obsession with fake Chanel?
I saw an old photo of Boy George wearing a fake T-shirt and I foolishly went into a Chanel shop and asked them, “Where are the T-shirts”?

Which fakes do you own?
My favourite is my original '80s fake white T shirt, with the Chanel logo screen-printed. It’s falling apart now, so it rarely sees the light of day. I just came back from holiday in Greece, where I got a cool belt for £10. Then there’s my Chanel necklace, which I made from some earrings I bought at a market a few years ago. I always love telling people my necklace is a fake when they tell me how nice it is. I also have a Chanel surgeon's mask, which I made from a scarf bought from petticoat lane market.

What’s your dream fake Chanel item?
A Chanel baseball cap from the '80s that I saw in a shop on Brick Lane. It’s £150. I always look when I’m on holiday, but I can never find it. I will be turning my Eai bike into a Chanel bike soon, as my friend who designs vinyl stickers is going to do some Chanel ones.

~Donald Crunk @ Styleslut


First photo by Donut Minni
Second & third photos by Billa
Fourth photo by Disconnec
Fifth photo by Taisau
Sixth photo via Velospace
Seventh photo, courtesy of Billa
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Pub Road-Test: The Victoria
London's Latest Refurb Balances Locals & Lovelies

Gentrification in the east end of London is spreading faster than Lyme disease on a tick-infested nudist camp. By 2010 the massive concrete monstrosity that is the new Shoreditch Station will be finished, just as the currently palpitating financial square-mile of London engulfs everything in its wake, stopping only to top up on overpriced sushi and glance at itself in the ever-multiplying, amply-mirrored bars and clubs.

As the world slows, the building continues. London is teetering on the edge-- the same as everywhere else. Either the poor will be pushed (and priced) out of the city, or the financial core of London will crash and burn, and the buildings now buzzing with tapping keyboards and jingling pockets will soon be abandoned and buzzing with the sound of squatters hammering themselves into their new abodes.

In every affluent area, pitched between the working class, and the posh, are the artists-- living off the scrapes of the capitalist corporations, alongside and within poorer areas where rent is cheaper and inspiration thrives amongst relative destitution. When the cultures clash, it can be beautiful or brutal. But like anywhere in the world where these forces meet, a mutual respect and compromise is essential.

With this in mind, a traditional East End "boozer," The Victoria, has been revamped by a group of musicians, artists, and other various young types. Situated in an area drenched in local history-- Grove Road -- Mile End is within spitting distance of the site in which the first flying V-Bomb hit London during World War II. And for over a century, the area has struggled to bring the down-trodden area a much deserved morale boost. In the 1880’s, social commentator and novelist Walter Besant proposed and successfully built a "Peoples Palace," bringing the area a complex that included concert halls, an art school and gallery, and a library-- a creative meeting place for the local people and artists alike.

Alfie Smith-- lead singer of London punk band The Skallywags and the head of this merry group of pub revitalizers-- has set about bringing a similar establishment to the area, although the locals have thus far only tentatively glanced through the windows to meet equally tentative glances back from the cream of Shoreditch’s art and music scene.

The Victoria was once a place where locals partook in the usual pub activities of darts, pool, watching football and singing karaoke. Now, they are more likely to find an impressive schedule of London’s top parties, club nights, and bands all crammed into an exhaustive calendar that already reads like a Who’s Who of what’s hot in London.

Despite the addition of a stage and impressive DJ booth, the pub has remained faithful to its previous incarnation in setup. The Victoria bursts with surprises, from the intriguing taxidermy and beautifully decorated toilets to the tasteful artwork on the walls. It’s clear that proprietor Smith and his partner Hannah Margaret Stewart have gone all out in making this public house strikingly individual, yet with its odes to the past, it remains warmly familiar. It’s a pub tourists only dream of: with all its quirky paraphernalia and English charm, it should equally suit both the young scene-stealers and the thirsty elderly.

But, it still remains to be seen what will happen when the locals trickle in (as they inevitably will). The place is aimed most at London’s younger more liberal drinkers, where the venue and the clientele are of paramount importance. Unfortunately, there isn’t a great choice of beers, and the event lineup shows the place is looking more to attract cool young types than born-and-bred locals. Still, the inspired interior is inviting enough for the locals that just want a swift pint during the week.

Bonus points go to Smith for roping his mum in to make the majority of the pub’s food, a touching ode to home cooking. The menu, still in its infancy (only carrot and coriander soup was available on our visit), has the potential to garner its own influx of visitors, especially if the delicious soup is anything to go by.

The Victoria has promise, and could potentially become the People’s Palace for the new millennium. Plus, it's nice to see no fancy Thai dishes, no mirrored bars, and no funky house music. If the locals are patient and respectful of the new owners’ attempts to bring something interesting, exciting, and non-snobby to the area, and the new owners and patrons are equally as inviting to the locals (if, of course, well behaved) as they are to the artists and punk rock singers—then this adventurous new drinking hole has a harmonious and successful future to look forward to.

~Kevin Soar


The Victoria, 110 Grove Road, London E3 5th. 0871 984 2996.

Rating:
Trendiness: 5 pints/5
British Pub Atmosphere: 5 pints/5
Beer Selection Deliciousness: 2 pints/5
Location: 3 pints/5
Clientele: 4 pints/5

Total ... 19 pints/25
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Cosmetics Road-Test: Sophia Lamar's Secrets
Downtown's Party Princess Keeps it Chic & Simple

Sophia Lamar, downtown New York’s ubiquitous nightlife personality and model/party promoter extraordinaire, knows a thing or two about looking good. From hosting blow-out bashes with her Misshapes BFFs, sitting front-row at Fashion Week, or being featured in the pages of Vanity Fair and iD, this tall brunette never appears without a flawless face to complement her often outrageous fashion.

While Lamar has never considered herself an artist— despite the fact that painting her face is a staple of daily ritual— she was recently invited by Terrence Koh to participate in a group show at the Asia Song Society— "I Want a Little Sugar in My Bowl" —with a collage she’d composed using the most unlikely materials: used make-up tissues. Having collected them over the past 18 years, she explains, “I kept the most relevant ones, folded them inside books and boxes. I noticed they were so beautiful, like art in the making.”

While she doesn’t plan to pursue an artistic career (even though her first ever installation sold for a grand) Lamar’s face will continue to be her best canvas. psychoPEDIA spoke with her to find out what products are in her palette:

Which single cosmetic product do you use every day?
I don’t use any facial creams, because I only use Retin-A, by prescription. I swear by that. It’s my favorite thing in the world. It takes away the dead skin from your face and accelerates the birth of new cells and skin. A lot of people freak out when they start using Retin-A, but you have to keep using it. The only thing you have to do is moisturize with olive oil. I also buy this wonderful cream in Paris that you can get at any pharmacy, Embryolisse, to make new or dry skin moist again. You let the new skin form, make it very moist, then go back to Retin A. It’s a cycle.

What's your favorite cosmetic line?
I use a lot of MAC—I really love them.

Favorite place to shop for new products?
The beauty supply store on 14th Street between 5th and 6th Avenue. They sell products for face and hair. They have everything, and it really works.

What do you always carry in your purse for emergencies or touch-ups?
The only thing I bring is a lip gloss—MAC in Bare Truth.

Your favorite daytime products?
I always wear sun block and powder on top to matte the shine. I use 45 or 50 [SPF] Coppertone. You have to make sure it has the ingredients that are actual sun block. You can buy any brand— Walgreens, Nivea— you don’t have to spend lots of money on sun block.

You’ve said that you can't leave your house without eyebrows, so what do you use on yours?
I’ve been coloring my eyebrows since I was 13. Eyebrows are the frame of your eyes. Even if you don’t wear mascara or anything else, if you frame your eyes well, it’s what matters. I use a pencil that’s not too oily. If you use a soft, oily pencil, it will run. I paint them, powder them, brush them a little bit, then paint them again. Then I use a shadow that’s a same color as the eyebrows so it looks natural. I buy it from the beauty supply, 2 for a dollar, and they work really well for me.

If you want to do a dramatic look for nighttime parties, what do you use?
It depends where I’m going to be. If I’m going to be on stage doing anything in the spotlight, I always use a shimmering shadow at the base of my eyelid. I use MAC Paint— it comes in a small tube. The silver one is really beautiful-- it gives you this “Boom! Show business. I’m here, look at me!” effect.

Favorite foundation?
I love powders and oil-free foundations from NARS, particularly Mont Blanc Oil-Free. For powders, I always choose dark colors. I mix it up with baby powder, because it gives you a natural look and absorbs the oil.

Lipstick?
The new pinks from MAC are beautiful. I tend to use less lipstick, because if you paint your eyes—shadow, eyeliner, eyelashes—and then paint your lips, you look too made up. What I do is balance my lips and eyes. I’ll only use something clear, nothing too shocking.

Mascara?
Maybelline Great Lash, because the cheaper they are, the better. It’s only $5. When you compare it with a lot of other brands at $25, you think,”Who buys this?”

Makeup remover?
I clean my face with MAC Cleanse Off Oil, then regular soap and water. It’s the best way, because you take off all the residue.

Best advice to have glowing skin?
Eat right. It’s the most important thing, no matter how many creams or things you put on your face. Drink water, and always clean your face before you go to bed, because that’s when your skin breathes, and you see the results of the previous night.

What type of water is your favorite?
I drink water from the tap. In every place, the water tastes different. The water in San Francisco tastes much better than in LA. But when I moved here, the water actually tastes great! People are too panicked about what they drink. I think all bottled waters are from the tap. They say it comes from this spring or that spring, but I’ve been to those places and I don’t see springs anywhere! It’s all marketing, and I guess some people have money to burn.

~Leann Peterson
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Restaurant Road-Test: Matsugen
Is Jean-Georges' New Japanese Thrilling or Underwhelming?

Soba’s a big thing in New York, and one of the best places out there to get it, is Soba-ya. That East Village restaurant is one of the city’s tops for excellent soba at an affordable (if not super-cheap) price. But that’s NOT the restaurant being reviewed here. Instead, because the soba craze overtaking New York is beginning to infiltrate the high-end, psychoPEDIA checked out a new one, called Matsugen. The brand-new restaurant has a top-flight name behind it: Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of the eponymous Central Park restaurant, and others around the city and world.

Soba is homestyle Japanese cuisine; and, to that end, a lot of soba restaurants look homey, a little frayed around the edges maybe, as Soba-ya is, despite its excellent food. But Matsugen, befitting both its Tribeca neighborhood and its star owner – is city-slick all the way… a long, high-polished wood table punctuated by shiny steel and chrome accents. The look is Asian in its combination of simplicity and classic style. As soon as you go in, you feel like you’re entering a quietly fashionable event.

The chefs here are Japan’s Matsushita brothers, entrepreneurs there, which Vongerichten has brought here to oversee the menu. And they’ve brought plenty in their suitcases from Japan, both ingredients and ideas. The menu’s huge, divided into more than a few sections – sushi, tempura, cold soba, hot soba, kamameshi (rice cooked in an earthenware pot), and grilled meat entrees from pork belly to wagyu beef. We selected two pieces of sushi - a red snapper ($8), and sea urchin ($10), a toro scallion roll ($12), the homemade tofu appetizer ($9), and chilled asparagus with sesame sauce ($15). The sushi was just fine – not near Nobu, but certainly good. Same with the toro roll. The tofu was delicious though – fresh, milky, creamy and decadent. Unfortunately, the chilled asparagus was flat and uninspired, with a peanut-buttery taste that was unsophisticated and one-dimensional.

For the main course, we chose two soba entrees – one cold (called “rin”, a delicate, no-husk version, $15), one hot (hot noodles with ebi prawn tempura, $26), along with a simple black cod with miso ($22). The cod was good, if a bit bland, but certainly a quality piece of fish, without too much fishiness. The hot soba was very good, if also a little bland, but the cold one was extremely disappointing. One word: mush. We understand it was listed as a ‘delicate” soba but it was so mushy that the noodles were virtually indistinguishable from each other and it was sort of a salty clump. It was presented in lovely plates – and the service was generally professional, polished and unobtrusive, if a little aloof – but that soba mistake is extremely upsetting, and a glaring error considering how much good soba there is in New York.

Considering that disappointment, we’re feeling a little taken, especially remembering the restaurant that previously occupied this spot – “66,” Jean-Georges’ failed effort at a five-star Chinese restaurant, where the food was OK but about five times too expensive for what it was. That one burnt out, and this one emulates its raison d’etre – Asian cuisine with the high style and high price (ordering conservatively, we still hit $135 not counting drinks) loudly usurping the power of the food. That’s not a great combo – especially given the fact that we are currently in a recession – so perhaps fewer folks will, quite literally, buy it. While it had its bright spots, Matsugen didn’t rise above pretty good overall. We’ll head back to un-fabulous yet delicious Soba-ya.

Matsugen, 241 Church St (at Leonard St), phone 212.925.0202

~Stephen Milioti


Overall Rating:
Taste, 5/10
Atmosphere, 8/10
Service, 8/10
Value, 3/10

Total... 24/40


First, second, and last photos, courtesy of Yummyinthetummy Blog
Third photo by Stuart Spivack via Flickr
Fourth photo by Monajc via Flickr
Fifth photo, courtesy of New York Social Diary
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Road-Test: Tim Hamilton's Playlist Favorites
The Designer on His Musical Inspirations

New York City-based designer Tim Hamilton is undeniably one of fashion’s rising stars, having already earned two nominations for CFDA’s prestigious Swarovski Award for Menswear in both 2007 and 2008 for his eponymous line. The Iowa native has also had a hand in a series of recent outside projects-- he partnered with luxury eyewear designer Linda Farrow for a sunglass and was invited to create a special edition pant for Topman’s Black Trouser designer project, to coincide with the upcoming opening of the chain’s first New York flagship store.

While his past collections have reinvented eras of iconic American sportswear from the past three decades, he cites that his upcoming Spring/Summer season is inspired by the minimalism of artist Frank Stella, flawlessly combining basic hues with irreverently playful details. The constantly evolving designer, despite being a relatively fresh face in the industry, is a name that already equates with meticulous tailoring and flattering men’s silhouettes— establishing his position as a budding staple of fine American menswear.

psychoPEDIA caught up with the designer while preparing for his Spring/Summer showcase this Sunday to find out what’s playing on his iPod:

What did you listen to while preparing for your Spring/Summer collection?
There’s a lot of random music that I play. While I was designing this collection, it was around April. I was listening to Santogold, Sebastian Tellier, Holy Ghost, Digitalism, Cut Copy, Hercules and Love Affair, and Fleet Foxes. Sometimes I make playlists for each month.

Which are your favorites?
Grace Jones, Lou Reed, New Order, Joy Division, Nina Simone, Gary Nuwman, and some old Prince.

Top five in your iPod?
Crystal Castles has been on a lot, [as well as] Cut Copy, Hercules and Love Affair, Pylon, and New Order.

What is the best music to de-stress or wind down?
I love the Fleet Foxes and Sebastian Tellier’s albums, specifically “White Winter Hymnal" by Fleet Foxes and “You Belong” by Hercules and Love Affair. I really like “Tell Me What It’s Worth" by Lightspeed Champion. And there’s a Blue Noise remix of Cut Copy that’s mellow—it’s nice.

Most soothing music to mend a broken heart?
Fleetwood Mac is nice for that.

Best music for love-making?
Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young.. I love “Our House.”

Who is the ultimate musician you'd like to dress?
MGMT, in modern day gypsy dress. I’d keep their style, but give a little more refinement to it.

Musician you need to give a makeover?
Any of those pop indie bands. I would like a go at Prince. Obviously he’s very in control of his look and probably has all of his clothes custom-made and works with a tailor, but it’d be nice to get him in a contemporary world.

What music did you choose for your showcase this season?
LCD Soundsystem is going to DJ, and I trust whatever he plays will be great. I love what James [Murphy] does with his music.

What is your one guilty pleasure song?
A Madonna track. I’ve been playing “Give it to Me" a lot in the office. It gets everyone going.

Biggest difference with your upcoming collection from previous seasons?
I feel like it’s really focused. Now that it’s my fourth season, I have a really strong handle on what I’m doing as far as menswear. And I know my customer. I feel with menswear, not too many people like to push it. And I like to push it, and bring a newness to something that was stale. I feel like I have the balance in my head, where I know how I can keep it steady. I have a solid platform now.

~Leann Peterson
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Restaurant Road Test: Delicatessen
Lissy Trullie on Cheeseburger Spring Rolls & Crimes of Fashion

At Cafeteria owners' new Soho restaurant Delicatessen, Lissy Trullie’s drummer Josh Elrod waits for the rest of the band to arrive. He’s predicted their timing perfectly: "Eben will get here first. He’s always early. Next will be Harley, then Lissy. It’s always that way.” True to form, Lissy’s guitar player, Eben D’Amico, shows up in his trademark plaid shirt, suspenders, and snappy hat. They order drinks and wait for the girls.

The band got together only a few months ago with the auspicious blessings of Off-Bowery’s A-Ron, but things are moving fast: “We should all just move in together!” jokes Josh. Lissy Trullie recently played great shows at Bowery Ballroom and Santos, and there are rumors afoot of a tour with The Virgins. Led by DJ/model Lissy lead-singing upbeat, addictive tunes with sometimes-somber lyrics, Harley Viera-Newton, London creeper enthusiast and DJ, completes the ensemble on bass. “We met on the street,” Lissy says of Harley. “We were like, ‘Where’d you get your shoes? I love your top!’ and now we’re BFFs.”

Harley arrives fresh off a just-for-fun stint of bartending at Lit. She’s been learning to make mixed drinks from improbable combos of ingredients, such as “the chocolate cake shot and the peanut butter and jelly shot.” The shot connoisseur was just named the official DJ of Dior, and there’s talk of a makeup line. Courtesy of the Dior arrangement, Harley says she has “like 400 kinds of makeup in the bathroom at home.”

All really hungry by this point, we order appetizers. Josh is keen on the reuben fritters, plus the halibut tacos, fritto misto, and the cheeseburger spring rolls, recommended by the waiter. The appetizers make their appearance just before Lissy, who arrives wearing a white V-neck, a cardigan, denim cutoffs and her favorite Chanel hat. At Eben’s urging, Lissy orders a dirty vodka martini, which takes forever to arrive. She is selective with the appetizers because she’s allergic to everything. Josh seconds that: “We’re a very allergic band,” he says.

Despite their various ailments, they eat. Josh loves his reuben fritters, but Eben is scandalized when the halibut tacos are served cold: “I’ve never eaten a cold taco in my life, and I’m not going to start now.” Lissy and Harley are deep in discussion over the cheeseburger spring rolls, which Lissy has braved her milk allergies to try: “It tastes like something your mom would make when she’s going out,” Lissy muses, “Just put ‘em in the microwave!”

Eben scopes out the bathroom, reporting that it’s “plastered with UNIQLO ads.” Lissy and Josh have worked with Terry Richardson as models, but remain unimpressed by the facilities: “Retarded,” Lissy says succinctly. Josh is more concerned about a “design flaw” in the placement of the toilet paper, which is stacked vertically toilet-side. “It’s unsanitary. People are gonna sprinkle all over that,” he shudders.

The kids are similarly underwhelmed by the staff’s Charlotte Ronson frumpy apron-type uniforms, worn over jeans and a fresh whitey. “She did a great job designing those V-neck T-shirts” Lissy sasses, who's something of a fashion authority. She was listed as one of Paper’s “Beautiful People” and recently featured in an Elle fashion spread. Aside from that, she always dresses the part. “I work in fashion, so I get a lot of free stuff,” she explains.

Around the time our entrees arrive, the glass garage-door outer walls of Delicatessen come down and the music pumps up, beginning with some alarming techno, or, as the band put it, “bad Eurotrash.” But the band remains good-natured and when confronted with an ominous-looking fish and chips, Harley is a good sport, claiming that she’s full from the appetizers. The “fish” in question is a large fried monkfish, “an unorthodox choice for fish-and-chips,” according to Eben, the band’s connoisseur, who grew up doing tastings at his father’s bevy of restaurants. But when Josh gets a whiff of the monkfish, the truth emerges: “The breading is mushy!” to which Harley concedes, “I’ve had a lot of fish and chips in my day, and this is not one of the best.” And regarding his Cantonese-style Atlantic salmon, Eben adds,“Like everything else here, half-baked!”

The fried chicken in a bucket with jalapeno corn bread gets a thumbs-up by the band, who agree that Delicatessen does best when keeping things simple. “They’d do well to stick to drinks and traditional bar food. When they try to get creative, they fall flat on their faces,” Eben elaborates.

When dessert comes, they are in for a fright: Harley’s S’mores, featuring deep-fried marshmallows. “They ruined S’mores!” she laments. However, the black and white cookie sundae, is actually a hit with the band. Lissy also OK’s her homemade lemon sorbet.

The band launches into talks about plans for their new blog, which is to be “lo-fi and ghetto” and pass around a tally sheet where they rank Delicatessen’s food, service, and ambience on a scale from 1 to 10. The scores were 5, 6, and 2…“uh-oh!”

As she finishes Eben’s drink, the gentle-natured Harley delivers the bottom line with brutal precision: “If a date brought me here I’d be totally bummed. He would not get laid.”

~ Christine Whitney
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Record Road-Test: Fucked Up's Favorite Punk Vinyls
Damian Abraham Reveals His Addiction to Rarities

Damian Abraham is possibly the most instantly recognizable figure in hardcore punk music today. The image of his full frame-- drenched in sweat, blood, saliva, beer and (more than likely) even more blood-- has a tendency to remain seared upon the retinas and subconscious of the musically aware and casual observers alike.

Through his role as mouthpiece for Fucked Up’s wholly idiosyncratic, and uncompromising synergy of traditional hardcore anger, speed and force, Damian has become the focal point of a band that has always been much more than just a band. Fucked Up is a movement-– a band that convert listeners from every margin, who recognize this music is a way beyond carbon-copy reproduction of the current scene. The band recently signed to indie label Matador in a worldwide deal that makes this threat an ever-growing reality.

As far as they stray from the confines of perceived notions of punk “normality,” the band’s stringent adherence to the 7” record is perhaps their only concession to hardcore conventionality.

It is no surprise, then, to discover that all members of the band are vinyl-obsessive. Abraham, aka, “Pink Eyes,” is the group’s self-confessed crowned record nerd. PsychoPEDIA caught up with Damian to source his rarest little circles of wax, and find out which of these precious commodities he would sell his left leg for:

How old were you when you bought your first record?
Three or four. It was the Madness "Our House" 7". I fell in love with that song because it was on the radio and TV back then. I can’t remember the exact store I got it in, but I guess I would have bought it somewhere with my dad.

How old were you when you realized that you were a “record collector,” as opposed to someone who just bought and listened to records?
About 17. I was a late bloomer. I didn't get ‘real’ about it until I was 19 though. That was when I started trading and digging. I can remember going to a friends house, and he was flipping a bunch of punk singles to focus more on reggae and jazz. I bought a ton of stuff from him and just thought to myself: "Well this is my life now."

Can you remember what the first punk record you ever bought?
I think it would have been a Swingin' Utters “Nothing To Rely On” 7".

What came first for you: punk obsession or record obsession?
Punk was first. I bought records about a year or two after, but it was more for ‘the music’ then. I swiftly became pretty obsessed though. The two go hand in hand. I think it’s because punk, by its very nature, is outsider music that appeals to marginal personalities. These types of personalities often tend to be hoarders. If it wasn't punk I'm sure I would be collecting Star Wars toys or something else nerdy. As well as records I collect old ‘zones, tapes, fliers, the odd t-shirt. Basically: anything punk related.

What is your favorite ‘punk record?
h100 – ‘Dismantle’ 7"

What’s the rarest record you own?
I have a DRI test press of the ‘Violent Pacification’ 7" that has the wrong band on the B-side and the Integrity acetate. Or the acetatesof the first Teenage Head 7" and LP. All that stuff is pretty hard to get hold of.

Your biggest bargain finds?
My wife gave me a copy of The Subhumans ‘Death To The Sickoids’ 7". I’d wanted that forever, but I didn't really find that, so maybe we can’t count it. I once found a copy of the Action 12" with the sleeve as they were putting it in the windowdisplay of a store and bought it for a quarter. It was a bit of a mythical record to me, and to find it like that made my day. I have been lucky enough to have been given some amazing records by friends over the years, but I couldn't count those as bargains. I would say the Project X single for a few bucks or the Integrity 10" on pink with the alt sleeve for $10 are my biggest scoops.

Have you ever had to sell chunks of your collection in hard times?
I have sold stuff, but always to buy other stuff. I guess it is more like reinvesting.

Which single record do you own the most variants of?
I want to one day have all the various versions of the Confront 7". I'm one away now, and I have six already on the h100 7". I'm a huge loser.

No you aren’t. You’re my hero. Which single record that you do not own do you wish that you did?
The Fix ‘Vengeance’ 7" It is such a mythical record, but apart from that, most of the stuff that I want now are just cool records I didn't know about. Not so much heavy hitters. I long for the purity of obscurity.

As someone who still digs in crates, what are your feelings towards eBay as a forum for record exchange and collecting?
I don't use it anymore, but that is only because I enjoyed it too much at one point. I think it has leveled the playing field and forced collectors to step up their game.

Finally, do you have a favorite ‘non-punk’ record?
“Phantom Of The Paradise” Soundtrack .

~James Knight


To search from some of Damian's favorites, check out these record shops:
Rough Trade East, 91 Brick Lane, London
Princeton Record Exchange, 20 South Tulane St, Princeton NJ
Singles Going Steady, 2219 2nd Ave Suite C, Seattle WA
Sonic Machine, 143 rue St-Maur, Paris
Core Tex Records, Oranienstrasse 3, Berlin
Bleecker Bob's, 118 West 3rd St, New York
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Restaurant Road-Test: Beach Blanket Babylon
Suzanne Schurgers Talks Art & Pornstar Martinis

With a sharp bob haircut and pencil skirt, London-based gallery owner Suzanne Schurgers certainly looks the part of a successful gallerist. Originally from the south of Holland, Schurgers flew the comfort of her Dutch nest and settled in the heart of London’s grimy yet artist riddled East End-- and, although still only 25 runs her own successful gallery.

Vegas Gallery was established two years ago in the basement of a dusty old warehouse building and quickly rose to fame for showcasing work from such artists as Kurt Cobain's favorite musician Daniel Johnston. Like many of the area's vast warehouses, it represents a ghost of the old industrious East End. Now completely transformed, it's also haunted by the various unusual and strange characters that make up the multimedia video directing and animation collective Minivegas of which Schurgers is a part.

Just around the corner of Vegas Gallery is the swanky cocktail bar/restaurant/gallery Beach Blanket Babylon opened by eccentric entrepreneur Graham Rebak this past spring, it has already become the main hangout of London’s elite club kids.

psychoPEDIA took Suzanne on a brisk five-minute walk around the corner from her gallery to sample the delights of a place that proudly announces itself as a perfect setting to 'expect the unexpected, indulge and enjoy, wear your best cocktail dress, rouge your lips, ruffle your hair, and join us for dinner, darling':

How did a young Dutch girl end up running such a successful London gallery?
Well...I studied Fine Art at the Rietveld Academie, in Amsterdam. I always imagined myself to be an artist for the rest of my life, but somehow I ended up on the other side, running Vegas Gallery. I love it, though.

Any cocktails tickle your fancy?
The Porn Star martini is my usual. I think I’ll have a personalized one, though. Let's chuck in some vodka, red currant, and a little vanilla.

Whats the relationship between Minivegas and Vegas Gallery?
My brother Luca set up Minivegas-and Vegas Gallery is basically a side project of that. Once Minivegas was up and running, we discovered there was an unused space in the basement. We had this crazy idea one day of starting up a gallery. One month later Vegas Gallery had it's first private view. Since that day we just kept on going and we keep meeting more interesting people every day.

How was meeting Daniel Johnston?
Meeting Daniel was a big moment for all of us at Minivegas. We made a music video for his song "True Love Will Find You In The End." Daniel and his brother came to watch the final edit in our studio. He’s a devout Christian, and although he knew there was going to be a Devil in the music video, he really freaked out when he saw it. But later he said he thought our devil was 'pretty cool!' I asked Daniel that day if he wanted to show some of his drawings at Vegas Gallery. A few months later the exhibition was on, and we had an incredible amount of visitors every day and received so much press. The show was nearly sold out.

How’s the cocktail you ordered?
Hmmm, So refreshing, it’s exactly what I needed. Need some food now. I’m in the mood for perhaps some pan-seared scallops to start, and lobster as a main.

So you're a video director, plus gallery owner. Sounds like a busy life.
I work very closely with a selected group of artists that we are representing and it’s very important to me to have a good relationship with them. The most fun about having a gallery is that you meet so many different kinds of people. It’s a very social job, I go to private views all the time, drink champagne, eat canapés… It’s part of the job.

In September Simon Willems is doing a solo show at Vegas Gallery. He has been included in Art Review magazine’s prestigious ‘100 Future Greats’ list…
He is an incredible artist! I love his work. Simon is making a new body of work for this show, which consists of large-scale paintings of dinosaurs, dragons, pig's eyes, ballet dancers, and a white Darth Vader.... 


What do you think of the Art Deco style at Beach Blanket Babylon?
I love the décor. And the vibe is so different. You can see city boys in their suits, ‘normal’ people, posh people, trendy Shoreditch types, and then there are the glamorous party kids. The mix of people is so unique. And, we get cocktails that are made especially to our personal taste! I always feel like such a princess when I come here. Need I say more?

How are you enjoying the scallops?
I’m loving the scallops in truffle sauce on a bed of butternut squash. In Holland we say: It’s like an angel peeing on your tongue!

Do you go here often, since it’s around the corner from your gallery?
I take our clients and collectors here quite often, and always order the Pornstar Martini. The kitchen is definitely good for dinner meetings and perfect in case I want to impress people.

What’s your verdict on the ongoing gentrification of East London?
I love it--we can’t have enough places like this around. I think it’s a great mix, gritty streets, with decadence hiding more and more in every corner.

~Freddie Janssen


All photos by Kate Cox
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Road-Test: Kenzo Minami’s Favorite Sports Equipment
The Artist on Crazy Horses & Exoskeletal Structures

The Sports Business Journal claims that the sports field is one of the fastest-growing industries in the United States. Billions are spent each year on everything and anything athletic; from high-profile endorsements to the basic running shoes you buy at your local store. It is therefore easy to conclude that more than a few people are interested in this “sports caper” -- including the unlikely figure of Japanese-American artist Kenzo Minami.

Known for his minimalist and highly intricate art, as well as high-end product design work for sportswear heavyweights including Nike and Reebok, Minami has a lesser-known love of sports and the associated paraphernalia and philosophy. Psychopedia probed and prodded Minami into admitting his favorite sports equipment whilst learning of his dangerous past as a sword-fighting horse rider:

Did you play a lot of sports when you were younger? When I was really young, I did Kendo, which is basically Japanese sword fighting. Then when I went to high school I joined the Equestrian Team. I don't think I would ever want to get back into it again, since I had seen some scary things when I was on the team. I remember someone died together with her horse right before I joined the team -- they both fell into the river and broke their necks. I only discovered that, however, after I had joined.

Jeez, did you partake in any other less dangerous sports?
I was a good runner, since you get that sort of muscle genetically (or so I hear) and my father used to be a really good long distance runner. I held a record in Junior High for long distance at some point. But these all were when I was a kid, and I now barely walk -- I just hail a cab instead. I did take some Capoeira classes around ‘99, but the class was held on Saturday mornings and I was never in the shape to stand on my head (I could barely stand on my feet because of Friday nights), and had to stop after quite a short period of time.

Do you play sports now?
No, sadly. Though I do dance a lot.

Have you ever designed sports gear?
Yes actually, I have done 2 shows with Nike -- one was a mural painting for their then-new space, and the other was a painting for a show. I also designed a Reebok Pump Fury I trainer as well as the ad for Reebok’s ["I Am What I Am" Campaign].

Weren’t you in the ad?
Um yes.

Your work is very graphic and mathematical. What do you think is in your style that could be applied to sportswear, or can represent sports culture?
I can be pretty flexible with my design even though I had been intentionally releasing particular styles to fit into certain realms of images at some period of my career. Since I finally feel that I can do whatever I want (and feel confident enough to do whatever I want), I would like to design more stuff that does not necessarily look like I have done them (and I have been doing that for some time now). So I would like to tackle it again in a way that designs make sense to this unique culture.

How do you see sports design in its current state?
I think it is now divided into two complete extreme divisions. One is the design based on human physical ergonomics - "Sports Design" in the true sense, I suppose. The other is largely (or almost entirely) based on aesthetic - more for its emotional value. Though I do not think one is "truer" than the other, or more "right" than the other.

What’s your favorite piece/items of sporting equipment?
Cricket gear. I just love the design of them, and nobody seems to be paying enough attention to this particular sport, at least in the United States.

Are there any items of sporting equipment you would like to re-design?
Any sports with protective gear, I would like to redesign - I am interested in the basic idea of protective gear or any exoskeletal structure in general.

What sporting equipment do you feel is non-improvable?
Some of the martial arts seem to be extremely refined due to thousands of years of fine tuning, so it would seem to be the most impossible to make them better, or at least to my untrained eyes. Though I am sure that they are constantly being improved and evolving.

~ Ilirjana Alushaj
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HOT SPOTS ROAD TEST: LOW KEY SUMMER HANGOUTS
Singer Diego Garcia Just Wants Some Peace & Quiet

Just the fact that you’re a “rock-star-in-residence” at the Bowery Hotel means that you’re at the top 0.01% of cool. Currently inhabiting this position is singer Diego Garcia. Born in Detroit (to parents from Argentina), educated at Brown, and living in New York almost a decade now, the singer, heretofore part of a band named Elefant, is branching out to release his first solo album.

Below you’ll find more on that, and on how his Bowery Hotel residency helped him extract his creative juices. We also got dirt on his favorite spots in his home-neighborhood of Soho:

Tell me about the residency…
It was beautiful. Every Monday around 7pm we did a kind of live rehearsal out on the second-floor terrace at the Bowery Hotel – you could hear it on the street too. The idea was to create an atmosphere to have a good time and get some dirt on the demos. We got some great feedback. We’re talking about doing a few more in September.

Really? So when’s the album going out?
Well, my priority right now is to get into the studio and hit record – I’m developing my first solo record. Should be out by end of the year.

Tell me more about the album…
I worked on it for two and a half years, and have done about 20-25 demos. The final piece was putting a live show together – taking the songs and bringing them to life. I’m toying with the title “Warm Winter Day.” It’s about the maladies of love, and all the questions a boy turning into manhood faces.

What are your favorite places to hang out in your area, to get inspiration?
The outdoor garden at the Bowery Hotel is one of my favorite spots in New York – because it’s quiet – the quality that most turns me on with the Chateau Marmont in LA as well. There’s no music in the lobby – you can hear people talking. Generally, I’m a total loafer dedicating my life to music and loafing. I love relaxing at Café Gitane – where else can you have a coffee outside, and look at a wall and graveyard across the street? I’m part of the gang there – I go there and it’s family – I’m guaranteed to run into a friend. I also love Balthazar around 3pm after the tourist lunch crowd thins out – it’s nice and relaxed then . Have you ever had the Eggs Benedict there? It’s the best in the world. Oh, and want to know a secret for one of the best things to do in New York in the summer? Go to P.J. Clarke’s in Battery Park around 8.30-9pm, again when the tourists leave – then go to the big movie theater at Battery Park after. Another good evening plan is to have dinner at Bar Pitti – but don’t order dessert there. Head to Blue Ribbon Bakery and get the bread pudding. It’s the best dessert in the city.

Any stores you like?
McNally Robinson – the bookstore on Prince St. I love going there and having a tea and reading whatever – again, since it’s quiet. Hey, I think there’s a quiet theme here… now I feel like I’m talking to a therapist!

You do seem to like quiet. Let’s explore that…
In New York, you have to look for refuge from the insanity. My day is about avoiding an “avenue.” The only major street I deal with is Broome – it’s the only one where I have to look both ways before I cross.

When you have to look good for either an outing or an album cover – what are your health and beauty regimens?
Neutrogena SPF 15 moisturizer every morning and every night before bed. When I’m about to shoot a video or album cover, I cut back on alcohol, and NO sugary soda. And I stop eating French fries. That part’s not easy –
I love French fries.

~ Stephen Milioti

Go There: McNally-Robinson Bookstore, 52 Prince St., 212.274.1160 Bar Pitti, 268 Sixth Ave., 212.982.3300 Blue Ribbon Bakery, 35 Downing St., 212.337.0404 P. J. Clarke’s downtown, 4 World Financial Center, 212.285.1500 Balthazar, 80 Spring St., 212.925.1414 Bowery Hotel, 335 Bowery, 212.505.9100
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Restaurant Road-Test: The Pump
Model Marisela Cruz on Eating, Modeling, and Moving

Marisela Cruz has just finished a round of castings for the day when she heads into The Pump Energy Food’s new Madison Avenue location and perches herself onto a plush, red leather seat with a custom-made, weight-training bench bottom, a nod to The Pump’s fitness past. The Pump opened in 1997, during the wave of restaurants that served fast food for work-out fanatics who wanted low-fat, high-protein fuel. “This place looks so different from the one on 21st Street," she observes. "I remember going in there once for a smoothie and noticing all the pictures of bodybuilders on the walls and thinking, this place is too hard core for me!"

The Pump’s new look was inspired by a Soho loft kitchen, and Marisela takes note of the design gazing at a wall of mirrors framed by rescued steel and copper, and pointing out things she’d like to incorporate into the new West Village apartment she has just moved into with her longtime boyfriend. In 2006, the now 27-year-old Adam Eskin, a fanatic himself, saw the company’s potential to grow and shed its hole-in-the-wall image. He gathered investors to buy the chain. The new location is the company’s first attempt to re-brand while keeping the food that gamered them such big initial success.

A Tucson, Arizona native, Marisela is half Mexican, part German, and part Native American. She is a tall, tan beauty with a strong, elegant face and full lips. She heads over to the counter and orders a Pump classic, The Popeye, along with a side of baked falafel, a small carrot juice, and a slice of apple pie made with designer protein. She can't be bothered to eat the meal in sequence. The pie is calling her and she digs in. Maybe it's a guilty feeling, but she starts to explain that summers can be slow for models because the 16-year-olds are out of school. “The young girls that are still in high school come to New York in the summer, so getting editorials becomes really competitive because people would rather use the younger girls. You would think age wouldn’t matter, especially if you still look super young, but somehow it does. I know so many girls who are already lying about their age." Marisela may not have reason to worry- she has been a model for J. Crew the last few seasons and is working towards a degree in Art History at Fordham University.

With her dessert plate clean, she cuts into a hearty entrée of grilled chicken breast with baked tahini sauce served over a gleaming bed of steamed spinach and brown rice. A steady flow of customers head in and do their best not to stare and sheepishly check to see what she’s eating. Her appetite seems to have no end– maybe because the place makes you feel you can order anything off the menu, guilt-free. Or that just by being here, you’re doing good for your health. The rules are this: no butter, salt or fat. Nothing is fried including the falafel. Yet somehow it all tastes good. “I love this food. It’s really comforting and filling, despite being healthy. A lot of healthy food doesn’t really fill me up, and this did the trick!” says Marisela. Finishing up with a fluorescent carrot juice, she smiles at her BlackBerry. Nick is asking when they can meet up and go pick out paint for their apartment. “We’ve been pretend-living- together for the last five months in my old apartment. But this is the real thing and I love it!”

~Sarah Ivory
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Socks & Shoes Road-Test: Price James' Fetishes
The Director's Penchant for Paul Smith & Dandy Style

Less than two years ago, Price James, like many fledgling filmmakers, was making music videos for his pals on a budget less like a shoestring, and more like a feeble thread flapping in the heavy winds of a market saturated by a generation too eager to be on MTV.

What made this jovial gent stand out from his contemporaries was not his striking height, full beard, or bear-like laugh, but his simple yet compelling masterpieces for the likes of Simian Mobile Disco, Friendly Fires, and Operator Please. His humorous and charming use of age-old techniques like stop-frame animation, slow motion, and pop-up quickly earned him the right to have the safe hands of RSA (Ridley Scott Associates) Films backing him. With James directing the first advertisement in six years for England’s most famous cakemakers Mr. Kipling and with two videos for cult-electro clash legend Peaches in the works, Price can only go up.

While a director’s presence in the public is normally a faceless one, James makes sure his own is unmistakable. Carrying a look only a man about London town could, (albeit a Victorian-era London), this dandy with a camera has a penchant for knickerbockers, boldly patterned socks, and patent shoes. psychoPEDIA got Freudian on Price at his East London abode and inquired into where his sock fetish, vigorous use of the pestle and mortar, and ambition to make the next System of a Down video all came from:

What was the experience working with Peaches on her latest video?
She was in London recording her album with James Ford and just phoned me: “I’m here for 3 more days-- can you shot a video for me tomorrow night?” Luckily, she had a pretty clear idea of what she wanted. The video had to somehow result in her doing a really bad jazz dance like a nine-year-old on her roof. Sounds like a real rubbish disco, but as you will eventually see, we achieved what she was after.

Do you prefer off-the-cuff shoots rather than something that takes much more planning?
No, but it is exciting. And it was Peaches, so she can just turn it on. She just does her thing. I tried to direct her, and she said “Nah, I just improvise.”

While Peaches is outrageous, is there anyone even more "out there" you would like to work with?
I really want to make a metal video. Full-on metal, like Slayer–- something brutal, perhaps Slipknot, or System of a Down. Make a real nasty video. I want to make people explode, Scanners-style.

Do you eventually want to get away from what you normally do?
Everyone has their niche, I started doing animation because of budgets more than anything. It’s a sneaky way to make things look magical and impossible. Somewhere down the line, you have to stop doing low-budget stuff. Its fun, but I want to go cinematic. I want to get into film, a feature length. I have an idea for a British Happiness film– something sick, but funny, a bit perverted.

Like your sock fetish?
I started wearing shorts a lot when I hadn’t bought any new trousers for a while and they were all ripping, so I just cut them down. When it was summer, it was fine, cool. But when it got to winter, it was cold. Then I thought “Shit, where’s all my trousers?” I had to start wearing long socks to reach my knees. The look goes back to Victorian times with the Dandies, and even further, with breaches and Henry the VIII, a very British look.

What brand of socks are your favorite?
I exclusively wear Paul Smith socks. They make simple patterns like wallpapers, spots, stripes. I like repeated patterns. The Paul Smith sock rocks.

Is this an obsession that stems from childhood?
When I was a kid, I would wear odd socks all the time. I would never wear full pairs. People thought I was weird. When I was 13 and at school, I’d come in with one black and one grey sock and everyone thought I was really sketchy.

Are your shoes as important to you as the socks?
The shoe and sock are important together. It’s a unison. BStore are my favorite shoes, on Savlle Row. They make the best men’s shoes, without a doubt.

Are there any other strange things you are obsessed with?
My mortar and pestle–- I love it. It's from Pages Kitchen Store, a catering supply store, and made from real granite. I can hardly lift it-– serious business. It’s worth about £100, but I borrowed it from a shoot. I love cooking, so this is my favorite thing. God, I sound really middle-aged.

~Kevin Soar
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Exhibit Road-Test: Jack the Ripper
The She Set Travel Back to 1888

A typical night out in present-day East London for the lager-swilling, girl-harassing city boy will probably start at a bar on Spitalfields Market, proceed to a club in Shoreditch, then end with a kebab on Brick Lane. This journey’s often littered with obstacles, including ‘birds’ to chase and ‘wankers’ to fight amongst the many winding Whitechapel alleyways. Send them back to the same place 120 years ago and these ill-suited fellows wouldn’t stand a chance. The only ‘birds’ close enough to want to sleep with them would be charging, and the only folk left roaming the streets after dark were the crazy or criminals, making it perfect hunting time for the infamous Jack the Ripper.

The Museum of Docklands is situated in the shadows of London’s most grotesque cluster of buildings, Canary Wharf, and is currently hosting a six-month-long exhibition centered on the twisted serial killer Jack the Ripper. While Jack the Ripper is its main attraction, what it offers the visitor is much more rewarding. It perfectly describes, with sympathy, the lives and times of the working class East London dweller, with enlightening glimpses into living in London’s East End circa 1888, which is far removed from the ‘London Dungeon’ tongue-in-cheek take on the Ripper. What’s most chilling about the exhibition is not the killings themselves, but rather, the dire conditions for those who survived during that time of rapid immigrant influx.

The She Set are a seven-member group of aspiring young DJs on the cusp of a London takeover. Having met in the seaside town of Southend, they came together through the love of one thing– records. Despite garnering a reputation as being “girlfriends of The Horrors” (though only 3 of them hold that title), since their collective move to East London, they’ve brought many a dance floor twisting to its knees with a range of records from '50s Rockabilly, 2000’s post-punk, and back again to '60s psyche, all exclusively spun on black vinyl. Their recently launched club night, The Sect, has already won them a reputation as top-notch club promoters and host to worldwide fan clubs from Mexico to Japan, all obsessed with the clothes and lives of the lovely lot.

psychoPEDIA sent 21-year-old She Setter and politics student Hollie Warren, who currently resides in Whitechapel, to the Jack the Ripper exhibition to see how the swinging East End of 2008 compares to 1888:

Did the exhibition reveal much you didn’t already know about Jack the Ripper?
The exhibition did well in describing the culture and environment in which the killings take place, such as the fact that much was made of the parallels between Jack the Ripper and the “Jekyll and Hyde” play. It did well at setting the scene rather than simply describing the details of the murders.

What are your views on the revelations and near-celebration of a serial killer?
I think the possibilities and details of what one human can do to another has always and will continue to fascinate people. It is both disturbing and interesting to consider what may drive someone to kill another, and I think that it is this rather than simply the gory details of the murders that means that newspapers and books containing details of serial killers continue to sell so many copies.

Do you feel the exhibition demonstrates the deprivation of the area at the time?
It possibly highlighted some of the reasons why these murders were able to take place: women having no other option than to sell sex, for example, the extreme poverty and alcoholism being rife. In this way, little has changed in today's societies, with the murder of prostitutes often going unnoticed and little debate on what can be done to prevent women from having to resort to prostitution.

As a vast collection of information, how effective is it overall in telling the story?
The collection was great. It set the scene for the type of place London was in the late 1800s and included pieces from this time. I also liked the way the exhibition used artifacts, videos newspaper extracts, and information boards to gradually allow you to build up a picture of the murders and how the murders were.

Do you see parallels between East London 1888 and 2008?
There are definitely similarities between the perceived problem of immigration, then and now, particularly in the way which immigrants were and often are scapegoats for many problems facing the country, and how this is inflated by the media. It is interesting how the media today fails to notice that Britain has always had an immigration issue and has always adjusted accordingly. It was also interesting to see how East London has always been a place where there have been huge inequalities in wealth living side by side.

Is there anything you would have liked to see that doesn't appear in the exhibit?
I'd like to have known more about the details of the investigation and how it was conducted by the police.

~ Kevin Soar
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Airline Road-Test: Best & Worst of the Skies
Photographer Brian Finke Dishes on His Latest Project

Flight attendants have been an iconic cultural image since the 1960s, with the stylish crews of TWA and Pan Am. From their chic, tight-fitting uniforms to jet-setting around the world, the lifestyle is one often associated with glamour and mystique.

New York-based photographer Brian Finke, in his new book Flight Attendants, vibrantly documents this present-day niche community, in a series of portraits that display both the charming and realistic sides of the industry. Having traveled around the world for two years, concentrating on 15 airlines in particular, with some (including Delta, Hawaiian, Qantas, British Airways, Thai, Tiger, and Icelandair), Finke captures an inside look at the men and women of professional air travel both on the ground and in the sky.

With his work currently on exhibit in LA’s Stephen Cohen Gallery (June 12-Aug 2), as well as an upcoming exhibit at Paris’ Gallerie Philippe Chaume (Sept 11-Oct 3), to complement the book's release by powerHouse, Finke joined psychoPEDIA to discuss his experience making the book, and the highs and lows of airlines:

How did you develop the concept for the book?
With my work in general, I photograph a lot of different subcultures and like working on projects that describe specific ones. My previous project was about cheerleaders and football players, and while I worked on it, I thought a lot about the costumes and style around it. I was traveling a lot on planes anyway, and it was right in front of me, so it seemed like a natural progression. Also, after September 11, I was drawn to the challenge of getting in there and photographing it. It wasn’t something I had really seen pictures of before.

Has the perception of flight attendants from the early days to now has changed?
I started photographing domestic airlines, and discovered traveling isn’t what it used to be. Pretty quickly I realized that I also wanted to go overseas to photograph airlines in Europe and Asia. When I was in Hong Kong, they were saying there’s still an allure of it being an exotic lifestyle. I think that still exists, but with my personal experience traveling around the States, it’s not what it used to be. Even last week I was going to DC and New Orleans, flights are always delayed two hours and crowded.

Was your own impression of their lifestyle altered after the project?
With my pictures, it was important showing the reality of current travel. Some of the pictures have a sense of humor and are whimsical, and some are more romantic and nostalgic. I realized a lot of flight attendants make it fit their own lifestyle. One of the attendants I photographed in Iceland has a family and kids, and she just goes to work like anybody else—flies to Europe then flies back home. I realized they make it fit whatever lifestyle or point of life they’re in.

As for style, which airlines have the best uniforms?
There’s a website called Uniform Freak, that has hundreds of uniforms on showcase. Several airlines in Asia are my favorite. AirAsia is a carrier in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, that has really great uniforms. I worked through airlines’ PR departments and would propose story ideas to editors, and a lot of them dealt with fashion and travel. Airlines in the past several years have started inviting high-end designers to design their uniforms.

Which airlines have the most attractive or glamorous stewardesses?
Icelandair is definitely a favorite. They have the scarves and hats— which are on the cover of the book. AirAsia is another favorite. It’s very Virgin Atlantic– great with style. And Air France is great, also.

Most unattractive?
Hooters Air, which doesn’t exist anymore. It was around for a few years, but folded a little over a year ago. They would have flight attendants, where two would be traditional ones in uniforms and two would be dressed as Hooters girls like in the restaurants, in nylons, short pants, T-shirts. They were there more for entertainment.

Best service or most helpful?
In a broad case, a lot of the Asian airlines are very good with passengers. Cathay Pacific is great. I photographed them during their 60th anniversary where they brought back the retro uniforms for a few months.

Oppositely, is there an airline with especially gruff flight attendants?
Not a big fan of Continental, even though I didn’t photograph them. They don’t seem very helpful these days.

Which has the nicest amenities?
Foreign airlines in general, and Cathay Pacific for sure.

What about the best food?
I recently flew Virgin American, and I like how you can go on and purchase food whenever you want. They have a touch-active screen where you can watch movies, but also purchase food whenever you want during the flight, which is nice.

Since you flew constantly during the project, do you have special tricks to avoid air sickness?
I fly a lot-- it’s just a normal thing. I drink a lot of water and take vitamin C to deal with jet lag and breathing airplane air all day.

Have you witnessed any emergencies while flying?
Once I was flying back from Florida and a plane had to make an emergency landing because a passenger had a heart problem. It’s good to know when something comes up that they can react so quickly.

What is your overall favorite airline after the entire experience?
I like Air France a lot, who I use a lot to fly back and forth to Paris. The food, drinking the wine, and visually the uniforms and plane are nice. And when I flew to Iceland, they put us up in First Class and really took care of us more so than normal.

What projects do you have planned for the future?
After photographing mostly female flight attendants for a few years, my wife had the idea to photograph construction workers. Time to hang out with the boys for a while! So I started on that this summer. I’m starting it here in New York, then hopefully take it to other major cities around the world.

~Leann Peterson


All photos by Brian Finke
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Road-Test: Berwick Street Record Shops
Writer Stewart Home on His Past & Present Favorites

Stewart Home is a writer for good reason. He has a brilliant memory, having recalled succinct details of life since he was two years old. On occasion, this can be more of an annoyance than a blessing. But he has put it to good use, linking inane facts and insane lives in his varied published works.

Although he’s too strange for the likes of Penguin, over the last three decades, Home has grounded himself as a scion of subculture. His writing ranges from satirical to the non-narrative, from pamphleteering to critique. He touches on everything from the early users of LSD (Tainted Love) to pornography (69 Things to Do with a Dead Princess); from boot stomping skinheads (Slow Death) to underground art movements (The Assault on Culture). If it sounds fun, Home has usually dabbled in it.

psychoPEDIA asked the writer and avid music-lover, born and bred in London, to guide us through the fast-changing nooks and crannies of his old stomping ground and source of inspiration-– Berwick Street’s record shops. Hoping to stumble across some gems before urban re-development to the area creeps up (whereby many of Berwick’s streets finest record shops have already disappeared), Home gives us some insight to his favorite spots:

What are your earliest memories of Berwick Street?
The first thing I remember of the area was Carnaby Street’s colored paving stones. They took them out in the 1980s, because they were looking a bit crappy. But they really should have refurbished them instead.

Why does that area appeal to you more than others?
Carnaby Street and Berwick Street are great, because you could pick up all the new bootleg records down the market. Then, just behind them, in St. Anne’s Court is a science-fiction shop, The Golden Eye. I started going to all these places in ’74. I remember discovering Aleister Crowley in there, who I thought was hilarious. Not because I was into magic, but because his books had chapter titles like “A Harrowing Heroine” which, when you are 12, is very funny. But Berwick St was the place.

Which record shop did you frequent most?
So many have come and gone–- but Selectadisc, which is now Sister Ray, was the best. You want change, because that is what a vibrant urban environment is all about. Sometimes things change for the better, and sometimes things change for the worst. Obviously, the property values in London are ridiculous. That’s one thing. But the other is that book and record shops are on the way out.

Any particular reason why you think that’s happening?
You can sit at your computer and pick what you want now, which is fine. But the down side is the loss of the social element. You don’t get recommendations, people don’t play you stuff. When I was a teenager, I’d go down Soho Market where they had the Rocks Off record store. It was great just to hear the records, talking to market traders, listening to new Siouxsie Sioux releases. When I was 12 or 13, I discovered You Can’t Sit Down by The Dovells and thinking that was the most amazing record I had ever heard.

Do you go anywhere nowadays to find new albums or discover bands?
No. But then I know what I want a lot more. I realized as I grew up that my taste veered towards Mod and Northern Soul. Now it has moved into a little bit of techno and the old psychedelic '60s stuff. Like The Vibrations or The Temptations when they stopped being so pop.

Do you have different stores catering to different needs then?
I have Soul Jazz doing their little post-punk thing. Sister Ray is great other than their obsession with shitty industrial bands which they should fucking dump. Record & Tape Exchange has hoards of random second hand stuff. There was Mr CD, which recently closed down, sacrificed to MP3s. I don’t say that in a bad way. I want my music in the cheapest possible format. I understand people being precious about their vinyl. On some dub tracks, you just don’t get the bass tone out of an MP3 or CD, or if you copy very minimal techno, like Plasticman, it sounds really shitty, because you are losing vital frequencies. But with most stuff, you can never tell the difference. With old Motown and punk songs, they are supposed to sound shitty and tinny. Mind you, on The Slits' track Vindictive, the tom sounded so rubbish on CD but fine on the vinyl.

Do you feel like Berwick Street is losing its record and bookstores to gear more towards Red Light District-friendly establishments?
I’ve got no idea where the sign saying ‘Model First Floor’ leads to, but all the girls on the street are quite obviously clippers. They are just gonna take your money and run. It used to be a hobby of mine, sitting outside a café and watching guys get strung along. I used to go to the venue The Marquee, which was round the corner. I would bunk off school to go to shows and beforehand, think it hilarious to sit outside a café with a cup of tea, and watch some businessman who had just been up to shag a prostitute having a cup of tea before he went home to confront the wife. He wouldn’t be able to hold the mug still.

~Iphgenia Baal
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Venue Road-Test: Café Oto
Thee Oh Sees Like Cakes & Good People

Having evolved from the ashes of lo-fi distorted garage noise acts like Coachwhips, The Hospitals, and the most seminal of Providence label, Load Records has ever released: the mighty Burmese, it came then as a surprise when John Dwyer emerged as the frontman of Thee Oh Sees, with the gentler folk sound.

Maybe it was the move to San Francisco from Providence, but this was an altogether quieter Dwyer. However, like a kid pretending to be grown up for a week and failing OCS (Orange County Sound) swiftly mutated into Thee Oh Sees, and started getting loose all over again. Their album The Master's Bedroom Is Worth Spending A Night In should be sitting tall on end-of-year lists everywhere, combining elements of all Dwyer’s past into an impulsive and petulantly coherent whole.

Beyond Shoreditch, venues that consistently put on shows of any quality in deeper East London are few and far between. If you aren’t watching a band in Dalston's Bardens Boudoir, it’s likely you won’t be watching a band at all. With this in mind, it East London residents welcomed the opening of council-funded venue Café Oto that popped up out of nowhere just two weeks ago behind Dalston-Kingsland station. With a string of great gigs in the near future thanks to the ever reliable Upset The Rhythm Thee Oh Sees-– Dwyer, Petey Dammit, Mike Shoun, and Brigid Dawson-- talked to psychoPEDIA about venues, lake of cake, and organic beer:

How does Dalston compare to San Francisco?
JD: Right now Dalston is nice. We are just sitting out here on the curb in the sun drinking coffee.
PD: In fact, this is probably exactly what we would be doing if we were in San Francisco right now.
MS: You would probably actually be asleep.
PD: Jet lag is a bitch. All those timezones. My head can’t keep up.

How were the venues as opposed to on the mainland?
JD: On this particular tour, they have all been fairly standard. But with other bands I’ve played with, I’ve played everywhere: you name it. Squats where the punks want your blood, pool tables, beer halls, caves. Wherever we could get power. It sounds awful but they all kind of merge into one.
PD: We had a great show in our practice space in San Francisco recently, though. Does that count as a venue?

What made it so great?
MS: It was Brigid’s birthday. We were practicing and we had everything planned so that mid-practice, all her friends burst in and surprised her.
BD: I was pretty scared, but in a good way.

Did you know that "oto" means "sound" in Japanese?
JD: No, but I do now.
PD: I see what they did there.

How are you finding the full range of organic beers and ciders?
PD: I like the label with the Bayeaux Tapestry painting, but it costs five pounds. I’m sticking to coffee.
JD: The coffee is excellent. It reminds me of the coffee in this little SF joint where we used to go and bum out and drink cup after cup and smoking a whole bunch of cigarettes or whatever.

Does it bother you that you can't smoke indoors in the UK anymore?
JD: They are weird about it in the US. Some venues just turn a blind eye. I can imagine it must suck bumming smokes in the winter here.

What do you think of this Bretton beer-- so organic that it has loads of sediment?
PD: I’m not into that. It looks like mud in beer. They serve Kronenberg and Beck too. We are gonna get a bunch of that in later.
JD: The coffee is great though, I want to stress that. And you can always drink coffee. Beer is sometimes just not feasible. But, coffee? Always.

How about the space itself?
JD: I really like it. It is super simple. Just a nice square white box. Everything has slight sense of DIY to it. Like the guy DJing has his turntables on top of a vintage sled. Sled? Sleigh? I’m not sure the proper term, but one of those rickety old wooden things.
PD: They also haven’t started doing food yet. Can we come back and play again when they are doing cakes? They say the cakes are coming. But when?
JD: Good cakes and good people. That is all you need. The people here seem great–- the promoters, the kids, the local guys. People told me this place was rough, but it’s been great. We just need those cakes now.

~James Knight
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Resort Road-Test: Royal Plantation
Nadia Koch on Jamaica's Premier Luxe Escape

Relaxation is synonymous with Jamaica. So, it’s no wonder Nadia Koch, proprietor of the bar Home Sweet Home, one of NYC's downtown after-hours staples, jumped at the invitation to experience their luxury resort, Royal Plantation, in Ocho Rios.

Since Home Sweet Home’s advent into New York City nightlife in 2006, Koch and her partner Kristen Vincent have been juggling art gallery gatherings, after parties for bands, and weekly events that bring in a multitude of neighborhood regulars and city notables alike from Chloe Sevigny to Moby.

Miles away, the serenely set Royal Plantation, built in the 1950s, caters to those who crave an intimate experience coupled with white-glove care. With only 74 suites, it offers private enclaves of comfort. Guests can lie on the beach with a cocktail, take a dip in the pool, or frankly, just do nothing.

psychoPEDIA caught up with Koch upon her return to New York City. Here’s what she had to say about her slice of paradise:

What was your first thought when heading out to Royal Plantation?
“Thank goodness! I wish my trip was longer." The idea of taking such a quick trip from New York City–- only three hours away, and you're in a completely different environment–- is fantastic! You didn’t have to make the time commitment to check out and venture far, far away.

How was it upon first arrival?
It was really impressive, because it looked so different than any other resorts we were passing. It’s very Old World in decoration. And it's much smaller and intimate. You don’t feel like there are people everywhere. It’s like your own private hotel. As soon as we stepped foot inside, we were offered a cocktail while signing paperwork. Six people were there immediately to take care of us, and it wasn’t this formal check-in.

What was the experience waking up the first morning at the resort?
I had a cup of coffee and sat out on my balcony and saw the most beautiful beaches and views. They really take care of the special details in the rooms. Our little bar area had everything you could possibly need to make yourself a proper cup of coffee and not have to get room service.

How would you rate the room service?
Our butler comes into the room with white gloves and sets up an eating area wherever you’d like to sit in your room–- either in the dining area, on the balcony-– seats you, places your napkin in your lap, and then leaves. Very formal, but very gracious. They even had a pillow menu! There’s a selection of different pillows to choose from. It was amazing.

What about when you're sitting by the pool or beach?
You have that feeling where you don’t feel awkward sitting on the beach while raising your little flag for either another cocktail or an extra towel. They’re there not to serve you, but simply to make you happy.

Is it exhausting to run your own bar?
It’s an everyday, 24-hour job. There are so many things to do, but there’s a lot of flexibility in it. Lately, we’ve been getting a better handle on the bar, so we’re able to start thinking in new directions on how we better this or something else. We also have a great staff. Things have come together really nicely over the past two years. It’s finding its own space and voice in New York City nightlife.

Having experience with bars yourself, how did the cocktails measure up?
I really liked one specialty called a "mangosa," which is Mango puree and champagne. It was their version of a mimosa, and they had a couple of other specialty cocktails. Their pina coladas were the best ever-- all the time, whenever you wanted, because it’s inclusive.

Did you try any of their spa treatments?
Yes, I had two treatments at Red Lane: the first was an exfoliation and entire body wrap. I typically don’t believe in those treatments working, but it was amazing and my skin was so soft. My manicure and pedicure was great too, but I wish there was a little music playing in the background.

What was your most memorable experience?
Our formal night where we shared the evening with the general manager, Peter Fraser. We started off in their private Cigar Room. He personally prepared steak tartar for us. Caviar, martinis, canapés, the Veuve was flowing. My drink was never empty. You felt like a lady. They also did the sabering with the champagne bottle, where you find the seam on the bottle and then cut off the top. Then it was followed with a lovely dinner where our wines were specially paired with our meals.

Why would you recommend Royal Plantation?
You get a feeling as to what Jamaica is all about, yet your focus to go there is to relax and not think about anything. You’re not there to run into town and dance it up at the dance hall! You’re there to relax and recharge your batteries.

Now that you’re back to the grind, what do you miss most about Jamaica?
That view from my balcony and taking a nap there after being on the beach all day with a lovely cocktail by my side.

~Jessica McMenamin
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Restaurant Road-Test: De Taart van m’n Tante
Designer Bas Kosters on Brothels, Fashion, and Cake

In an attempt to clean up Amsterdam’s infamous Red Light District, their city council has purchased a number of area brothels as part of its Red Light Fashion project. Former prostitutes’ windows have been converted to showcase couture collections from the best Dutch designers-– one such being Bas Kosters.

Known for his explosive use of color, hand-drawn prints, and recycled materials, the multi-disciplinary artist also works as a painter, illustrator, and DJ. With such a colorful and dynamic palate, Kosters made a perfect subject to test the equally flamboyant and charming dessert specialist De Taart van m’n Tante.

Dutch for ‘My Aunt’s Cake’, this sweet shop serves homemade cakes, in the shape of cartoon heroes, Barbie, animals, and many more designs that magically transport one back to more innocent times. It's a favorite hangout for Amsterdammers enjoying a romantic date, girs' get-together, kiddie party, or a quick game of camped-up bingo.

Surrounded by fake flamingos, bright velvet cushions, and lots of big fluffy cakes, psychoPEDIA joined Bas for tea-time topics from fighting crime to working in a brothel.

What’s it going to be?
I just had a quick look at the cabinet, but there’s not a lot left. I guess it’s quite late in the afternoon, but I noticed they have some carrot cake, and some apple with amaretto, and a mango Bavarois. They all sound appealing to me, but I’m going for the hot chocolate with cream and the carrot cake.

How did you get involved in the Red Light Fashion project?
A few other young labels and I are involved in another project called Turning Talent Into Business, which helps young designers build their businesses, and we were basically all approached. It was quite easy for me to get involved.

The project was set up to clean up the area, partially in a fight against crime. How do you think you’ll influence that?
They didn’t think fashion would actually change the crime here, but they just wanted to do something different with the area and use the buildings for different purposes. In an indirect way, we want to fight crime, but more than that, we wanted to give the area a cultural factor. It’s also a great media pull, attracting a lot of new people to the area. The media is going totally mad for it. The red light district has always been an interesting talking point, but since the project launched, I’ve had so much more attention from the media.

How are the residents responding to the project?
Everyone feels very different about it. Some of the residents are happy with it, some think the area should stay the way it was.

The waiter arrives with the cakes.

Hmm nice. [Bas, squeals like an excited child at the arrival of his cake] But as I said, everyone has a different opinion about the project. As a designer who is involved, I would say that I think it has a positive impact on Amsterdam as a city. It’s good for people to see that the area is not just about trashiness, but it’s areas like these that are actually the places where creativity is born.

I read that the rooms are kept intact and that they didn’t actually convert the spaces. Is it weird that you’re now working next to those beds?
Yeah, there are red lights, black lights, and these big built-in beds. Very bizarre. The building itself is also very funny. It’s really like a labyrinth, with all its corridors and crazy little rooms. It seems to lead its own life.

Does this different and crazy environment inspire you in a different kind of way?
I’m actually doing a series of paintings with very explicit sexual images. It’s quite funny, because we had to sign a contract about not showcasing work in the windows that is linked to alcohol, degradation, and addiction. It’s quite a contrast, because of course you feel different when you work in that space, but we’re not really allowed to do anything with that feeling. I am actually not trying to think too much about what happened in there, you know…

Are you enjoying the carrot cake?
It’s lovely! Hahaha. [asking his assistant] Would you like to try? It’s such a nice little piece of cake!

I’m guessing you’ve been here before?
I come here every once in a while. I’ve actually had this carrot cake before. I like it here. The café has this has a really cozy vibe. But how nice would it be if it were open at night? It’d be so nice to come down here at night, with some friends, have a bit of cake...

What’s happening after this year–- will Bas Kosters go worldwide?
I don’t know. But I am going on a holiday to Jamaica soon, for Jamaica Style Week. It’s going to be busy. We have so much planned, which I am happy about. I’m not too psyched, though. I heard 36 gay men were killed there last year. Apparently they’re not into white gay men over there. So, I’m going to leave my Dior sunglasses and gold rings at home. I’m so used to being explicit and communicating with my outfits, but I don’t want to communicate the wrong things over there, so I have to dress a bit more quietly. Here in Amsterdam I am creating freedom by being different, but over there, I will be creating freedom by not being different.

- Frederieke Janssen
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Hair Road-Test: Tetine's Favorite Styles
Singer Eli Mejorado Reveals the Good, the Bad, and the Hairy

Brazilian-born Eli Mejorado and Bruno Verner make up Tetine-– a bass-heavy duo who list their influences as tropical punk, funk carioca, Miami bass, punk-funk, and hysterical vocals. Their music sounds like 2 Live Crew being car-jacked by CSS. And if a song makes me want to dance when I’m neither drunk nor high, then that’s a pretty good indication that the band rocks, and all of Tetine’s songs make me want to do the ‘Electric Boogaloo.' But to be honest, I’m only really concerned with the female vocalist, Eli. She wears sparkly gold bikinis and always looks like she just rolled out of bed.

psychoPEDIA met with Eli to have a lengthy conversation about her love for all things hair:

Why are you so obsessed with hair?
I’ve always loved hair since I was a child. Then I got into wigs, moustaches, and beards when I was about fifteen.

What style do you have your hair in at the moment?
It’s just wild, I don’t have any specific cut. I call it “wolf hair.”

Is there a specific place you like to get your hair done?
My friend Silvio cuts my hair. He comes to my place and charges £30. He's sensitive and understands that my hair looks good when it looks like I haven't had it cut.

How often do you change your hair?
I used to change it a lot before. I’ve had my hair colored blonde, red, orange, black, blue, and green: and I’ve had it short, curly, and straight. Nowadays, I like it its natural color and long. If I want a change, I go for a wig. To be honest, I'm tempted to go for a more light brown color at the moment.

What's your favorite hairstyle?
My all-time favorite is the long, curly, and blonde. But I also have a thing for actresses from Alfred Hitchcock movies with perfect hairdos.

What do you think is the worst style ever?
It depends. I wouldn't go for red and short myself, but my friend looks just perfect with it.

Can you remember the worst haircut you ever had?
I once had straight blonde hair that was very long at the back and short at the front. My nose was just too big for that style. I looked awful.

Which celeb has hair that you think is cool?
Amy Winehouse has such a nice hairdo! She looks sexy without having to make any effort. But, my all time favorite hairstyle was on Tippi Hedren when she acted in The Birds. Even when she's attacked and covered in blood, her hair still looks perfect to me.

Is a good hairstyle ever an adequate substitute for not having a personality?
No. I think the hair translates the personality.

Do you like people to grab your hair when you’re having sex?
I definitely do! Grabbing is good, but I hate when they pull it. I can get very angry.

How do you feel about men who shave off all their pubic hair?
I pity them. I like men like Chili Gonzales.

Do you have a take on facial hair? Don’t you hate it when guys rub their grizzly faces against yours?
I don't like it when the beard is growing. It hurts! I like it when it’s a fully-grown beard.

Anything we should look out for with Tetine this year?
Our new album is coming out on Soul Jazz in mid-April. It's going to be hairy!

~Donald Crunk @ Styleslut




For tips on how to get Eli's favorite looks:
For Eli's just-rolled-out-of-bed look, try Bed Head's Hook up wax or Jonathan's texturizing paste to make clean hair look like yesterday's messy masterpiece.
For a strong enough spray to keep your Winehouse-inspired beehive going for days, try L'anza Volume Formula Final Effects  finishing spray.
To really change your 'do, visit Lulu's and Wigs.com.
To change up your hue, Manic Panic or Amphigory Dye.
And, if you're still not feeling hairy enough, grab a moustache at Costume Inc.


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Website Road-Test: Graffiti Island's Internet Favorites
Pete Dee Reveals His Bizarre Browsing Habits

Graffiti Island seems to have walked straight out of the bar in Twin Peaks' One Eyed Jacks into an episode of Kojack: The Night Stalker via the set of a Jodorowsky film. Hailing from the Dalson area of London, their simplistic, lo-fi approach has garnered comparisons to early K Records acts like Beat Happening. But between Conan Roberts' string work on bass and guitar, drummer Cherise Payne’s propulsive rhythmic counterpoints, and lead singer Pete Dee’s deadpan, pop-culture-soaked delivery, they offer something wholly original. In a few short months and without a release yet, the band has already shared stages with acts as diverse and established as Les Savy Fav, Effi Briest, Be your Own Pet and Rings.

psychoPEDIA caught up with Dee to talk about the Internet obsession that colors the band’s sonic and lyrical palettes, creating twisted and compelling tales of werewolves, haunted picnics, and mountain men gone nuts:

Tell me a bit about your blog, Voodoo Village.
My friend Jiro and I were in his bedroom relaxing and listening to "Love Theme" by Vangelis when we got the idea to make a blog. We share similar interests and get annoyed by how much crap is out there, so we decided to make a blog full of our favorite stuff like Italo disco, outsider art, Ancient Egypt, Down syndrome, GG Allin, aliens, heavy metal, and any kind of freaks.

Where did the name come from?
We got the name Voodoo Village from a compound in Memphis, Tennessee, which goes by the same name. The people who live there are a mixed-race of African Americans and Native American descent. They are led by a 100-year-old man called Chief Wash Harris.

What kind of stuff are you looking for when you sit around browsing the Internet everyday, or are you just flailing around in the dark?
This week I’ve been looking for old pictures of sideshow freaks. I found a good one of a pony woman whose leg joints bend the opposite way. I’ve been watching a lot of New Jack Swing videos too. My favourite is "My Heart" by TROOP. The dancing in that video is intense.

How long do you spend in front of the computer screen every day?
I sit until I can't feel my legs.

Are you sure this isn't all an elaborate front for solo cranking sessions?
I do some of that too. Shh.

You are also into the occult and UFOs. How did this obsession arise?
I like watching interviews with airline pilots and astronauts who've seen UFOs. I trust those dudes, they seem like good guys. I'm into UFOs of all shapes and sizes but probably the ones I’m most interested in are the black triangles, because I saw one when I was 15. My favorite alien theory is the one where people believe that lizards live under LA. Some guy back in the 1930's even mapped out where all the tunnels are that lead to the underground lizard cities. I wanna go check them out.

That seems to border on a conspiracy theory. Are you into those too?
I'm into the hollow earth theory. That is the belief that the earth is hollow and full of weird lands and ancient creatures. Supposedly you can get inside the earth through a big hole somewhere in the North Pole. Some people think this is where a lot of the Nazis escaped to.

Without giving away the secrets to your online gold, what websites do you recommend?
jah jah spinXXX is great for images. There’s no text, just hundreds of images of weird stuff. The Mutual UFO Network is best UFO website out there, and you can look at a UFO weather map that shows you what cities in what countries the UFOs have been visiting over the last few weeks. Unexplained Mysteries is a goldmine. On Ghana Movie Posters, you can buy some of the most amazing hand-painted movie posters by some of the most talented painters now living, for only $100! The How's Your News? team have made one of the best documentaries ever. And the site for McRorie – the best one-man band on earth.

How does all of this online intake and assimilation influence Graffiti Island?
The Internet has an infinite amount of information on weird places and weirdos. That is the kind of information I need to write the songs I need to write, that’s all.

Do you think without all this stuff knocking around your head, you would be the same band?
I don't think so. We'd probably all be wearing straw hats, pointy shoes, low cut V-neck T-shirts and singing songs that go “oh eh oh oh oh eh oh oh eh oh eh oh.”

~James Knight

Graffiti Island’s debut 7” is forthcoming on House Anxiety Records.
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Restaurant Road-Test: Gemma
Actress Joy Bryant on Yoga and Real Italian Food

Joy Bryant is hungry. It's noon on a recent spring afternoon and the actress parks her fold-up bicycle in the entrance to the restaurant Gemma while we wait for our table. Gemma is the rustic Italian restaurant in The Bowery Hotel, a few blocks down from the Lafayette House where Bryant is staying while in town to be a judge at the Tribeca Film Festival. The actress started her morning with a Kundalini yoga class at Golden Bridge Yoga: "I woke up and went straight to yoga. I haven't eaten anything yet.” A tall glass of freshly-squeezed juice (half orange, half grapefruit) is rushed to our table with a pot of coffee. Joy continues, "We held one posture for 11 minutes today. That's the longest I've ever done. The posture wasn't that hard, but mentally it was. Your mind wants you to stop. So I got to push myself, which is great."

She explains that Kundalini yoga uses the breath of fire while holding various poses to strengthen and detoxify the mind and body. “In your life, the breath is the most important thing. The inhale and exhale,” she says, diving into a basket of warm coal-oven-baked bread that she dips into a plate of olive oil. The waiter comes over to read us the specials: “Grilled scallops with corn and red peppers. . .” he says. "That's what I'll have," Joy replies instantly.

Bryant was first introduced to Golden Bridge Yoga in LA, where the native New Yorker has lived for the last five years. "I had just broken up with this guy I was seeing and was bummed out. Around the same time, I got a role and had a couple of months to get my head together. I found Golden Bridge online and went once then a few times a week and from January to March, I was going every day." A milky white appetizer of burotta arrives and Bryant elegantly–- especially for a famished woman who's just been holding yoga postures on an empty stomach–- slices herself a bite. "Delicious. Tastes exactly how it's supposed to taste. Melts in your mouth. I hate it when you go to a place and order burotta and it's mozzarella."

The part Joy used Kundalini to prepare herself for was her first comedic role, opposite Martin Lawrence in Welcome Home Roscoe Jenkins. "To do this movie where I'm working with all these amazing comedians was something no one was expecting [from me], so I had a lot of pressure. But because I had been working on myself doing Kundalini everyday, I felt stable and grounded-- centered." The day’s scallop special arrives-- three round juicy grilled scallops on a bed of chopped grilled corn and red pepper. There are a few minutes of silence while she eats, until the waiter comes over and asks how everything is. "Terrible," she says, then flashes an ear-to-ear, killer smile. "This should really be on the permanent menu. So yummy."

Bryant plans on making Golden Bridge Yoga class part of her daily routine while in town, just as she plans on making Lafayette House her home away from home. "It takes the boutique hotel to the next level," she says. With a squeaky stairwell, antique-filled rooms, and slightly chipped ceilings, the 15-room brownstone building is more New Orleans than New York. It is the secret inn from Maritime and Bowery Hotel owners Sean Macpherson and Eric Goode. There is no concierge and room service stops after lunch. "But this is New York. Everyone delivers. I love how it's quiet and home. The rooms have fireplaces and the staff is really sweet. It feels like you’re in someone's cozy townhouse apartment."

Finally panna cotta with berries is served. “I have to come back for this meal tomorrow,” says the actress, who has a binder of materials from the festival to review and is deciding whether to take her bike and find a patch of grass in Battery Park or go back to her room’s "super-comfortable bed.”

“I see you hated it," the waiter says, taking away the spotless empty plate. The actress replies deadpan, "Awful. Just absolutely awful," with a twinkle in her eyes.

~Sara Costello


Second photo by fragvine via Flickr
Third photo by Gregory Goode
Fifth photo, still shot from Welcome Home Roscoe Jenkins
All other photos by Sara Costello
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Restaurant Road-Test: Counter
Graffiti Artist Edina Tokodi on the “Green” Eatery

Mixing necessity with trendiness, going “green” is now a certified cultural phenomenon. However, few take it as literally as the Hungarian-born “green graffiti” artist Edina Tokodi, whose work has been sprucing up the streets of New York City in the form of animal-shaped moss installations. Tokodi’s eco-art art brings to light the urban dweller’s lack of access to natural greenery, enlivening an otherwise concrete jungle. By placing her renegade installations from Williamsburg to Coney Island in a continually-expanding project, Tokodi has not only caught the eye of New York’s pedestrians, but now, the attention of Philadelphia’s transportation system, SEPTA, who recently commissioned her to produce their campaign to promote the environmental benefits of using of mass transit.

A vegetarian with a taste for the greener side, Tokodi made a fitting subject to sample the East Village’s hip and healthy hot spot, Counter— which recently became a "Certified Green Restaurant" by implementing several sustainable practices, to be built upon each year. This environmentally conscious and popular vegetarian bistro, opened by natural-food aficionado Deborah Gavito in 2003, serves seasonally-fresh cuisine and an impressive selection of organic martinis and biodynamic wines— some even featured in their “Rebel of the Month” spotlights on organic winemakers. From one green rebel to another, psychoPEDIA joined Tokodi at Counter on a bustling night to chat over the eatery’s organic offerings:

As we are seated, the manager Frank Cisneros greets us and talks a bit about the steps the restaurant has taken to become “Certified Green.”

What are some of the restaurant’s current sustainable practices?
FC: We’d had energy-efficient lighting and a temperature-control system with micro thermometers, so there’s not an ounce of energy wasted. Last year, we worked with a company to re-use our fryer oil and installed low-pump spray valves in our kitchen cleaning systems that use a tenth of the water normally used to wash dishes. Along with recently purchased motion sensors for the service areas to control the lights, one of the steps we’re doing this year is installing aerators in all our faucets, that adds air to water so you use less of it.

Any future practices you hope to adapt?
FC: We're looking for a good producer of to-go containers made of bagasse— a fibrous, sugarcane material you can process as a plastic that’s biodegradable in 90 days. We’re also in talks to get energy-efficient hand dryers, and a long-term project is LED lights for our awning that are powered by solar panels.

What do you think of the “green” and “organic” movements?
ET: It’s kind of a shame. People go green or environmentally friendly, but somewhere on the side, it’s very sad. It should be normal.

How did you get involved in the SEPTA project?
An advertisement agency, Red Tettemer, searched for me, because they had seen one of my other projects. They came up with the idea for the moss campaign and did all the backgrounds and posters. Then my collaborator and I did the whole moss installation. It took about a month to put the materials together at home and one week to install them, which was a hard job.

What was the process to install the moss pieces?
We spent five days at the station in Philadelphia. The interesting thing is, the agency put the posters up before we installed the moss. At first, everyone went by and didn’t take a look at all. But after we installed the moss, people actually stopped and got more interested in the campaign than they were before.

The waiter brings us bread with tofu-garlic dipping sauce as we ponder over the extensive wine list before deciding on glasses of biodynamic Beaujolais.

Despite endless wine choices, what do you think of the minimal food menu?
I always have a really hard time choosing. I’m happy when there aren’t too many choices. And here, everything sounds very good.

For starters, we order on the Mezze— a selection of 3 appetizers— the roast beet salad with chevre, spinach and feta cheese cigars, and panisse with aioli (chickpea fries). For an entrée, Tokodi chooses the Vegetable Tasting Mosaic— which includes a market-fresh array including Portobello mushroom roulade, sautéed haricots verts & escararole, and whipped maple sweet potatoes.

Reactions to the appetizer spread?
My favorites were the spinach cigars and the beets. Usually, I don’t like onions or scallions, but I thought this was really good.

Tell me more about the concept behind your street “graffiti.”
I made a trip to Japan a couple of years ago and was inspired by the zen gardens— they give you so much energy. I still think about the garden in the house where I grew up. It was nothing special when I was there, but here in New York, it’s unaffordable. The idea for these installations is that people are so far from this kind of life.

How do you want people to connect with the installations?
The main idea is that these installations are interactions. When people see them on the street, I want them to get close— touch them and feel them. Maybe they’ve never touched any moss before.

Entrees arrive, and Tokodi navigates her way around the plate, tasting each vegetable one by one.

What do you think about the assorted vegetable dish?
It’s very good. I like the type of food that has it’s own taste. That’s why I love real Italian food— zucchini tastes like zucchini. [With this dish], I love the sweet potato. But, I like everything.

After polishing our plates, we review the dessert menu. Following the waiter’s recommendations, we choose: a crème brulee— vanilla custard with candied orange peel & drizzled with kiwi-berry sauce, and chocolate fondue— valhrona & callebaut chocolate served with fresh fruit and coffee-walnut cake.

Despite the pricier nature of organic menus, would you still choose to eat somewhere like Counter over the McDonald's across the street?
I’d rather not eat at all if I don’t find something that’s good. I like to eat, and I like to eat things that are good quality.

Does it make you feel better eating here, knowing the sustainable practices the restaurant has installed?
If you’re running a restaurant, you should be responsible for these kinds of things. If you run it in a crazy way, you create a lot of waste. With this restaurant— these are simple things. But now, we’ve gotten to the point where it’s getting very serious, and everything counts.

~Leann Peterson


For more information on the steps and benefits to becoming a "Certified Green Restaurant," check out the website for the Green Restaurant Association.
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Road-Test: Tapedeck’s Favorite Comics
London DJs on Action-Hero Pussies & Superhero Sex

At one point, the London party scene was a depressingly divided place. The punks would be in one club listening to The Cramps and The Strokes , while hip-hop kids would be in another club listening to Biggie Smalls and Dipset. “So, what happens if you like the Strokes and Biggie?” you ask. Well, to put it bluntly, you were fucked. You’d have to pay to go to two different clubs, and that sucked, because if you were just about to get lucky with a hot chick/dude, you’d have to cut your conversation short and risk going home alone.

Luckily, a whole swarm of ‘new-school’ DJs were determined to fuck with the rules and play whatever they wanted. Alax and Seb from Tapedeck were amongst the movement, and they now head their own label Meal Deal Records and do remixes for artists from Kate Nash to Klaxons. psychoPEDIA caught up with Tapedeck’s Alax who filled us in on his obsession with comics:

When did you first get into comics?
I think I was about 5 years old when my Dad bought me a massive comics annual for my birthday. I was also really into Calvin & Hobbes as a kid.

Where do you get yours from?
There's this place in Harrow called Calamity. I get them there because that’s where I live. There's also a comic book fair that happens every now and then in some hotel in London, which is pretty cool for picking up cheap stuff.

How many do you own?
Loads. To be honest, I’m more of a graphic-novel kind of dude these days, so I've got hundreds of those.

What do you like so much about them?
Any form of media which can have spin-off action figures is cool.

Favorite character and why?
I have to be really obvious and say Batman. I just relate to him being a depressive person with a father who is a popular on the property scene.

Can you remember the worst you've ever read?
Man, I read some Batman comic the other day called Arkham Asylum. It was really bad. I don't want some Charlotte Bronte-esque backstory about the asylum's history ruining my comic-reading high. Also, the art really sucked. It was like Batman as rewritten by a Lacuna Coil fan..

What’s your favorite movie adaptation of a comic book?
I really liked the first Spiderman film. I liked it so much that I even went and saw it again in France when it was dubbed into French. The worst is easily the recent Punisher movie. Why did it suck so bad? I think it was because he didn't violently annihilate enough people's lives.

Have you ever dressed up as a comic book character during sex?
I dressed up as the The Flash once. It was over in a second.

Do you think Spiderman could ever take Batman?
No way. A little self-doubt, schoolwork, relationship problems, and he's scared of heights? All Batman would need to do is Photoshop a picture of Bruce Wayne boning Mary Jane, and Peter Parker would lose the ability to climb walls and shoot webs. Have you not seen the movies?

What character do you think is the biggest pussy?
I really don't have much time for Superman. I don't think you can call him a pussy in the conventional sense of the word, because he is pretty brave and does have the strength to move planets. But there's just something about his face. No matter which artist renders it, that screams “pussy!" The biggest pussies are emotional pussies. Think about it.

Have you ever been sexually attracted to a character from a comic?
There some chick with a tail in Black Hole by Charles Burns who is really fit, but I think she only goes for guys who can remove their skin like a lizard.

What’s Tapedeck up to this year?
We both hate the fucking shit out of bulls, so we're training ourselves to become matadors. The music is just a way for us to fund all the bull-killing.

~Donald Crunk @ Styleslut


Go There:
Calamity, 17-19 Springfield Road, Harrow, HA1 1QF, UK. +44 20 8427 3831
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Frozen Yogurt Road-Test: Pinkberry to Red Mango
A Creamy War Breaks Out in New York

Just a couple of years ago, nobody cared much about frozen yogurt. In New York, as frozen yogurt chains disappeared in the '90s, Tasti D-Lite proved an acceptable alternative. All over the city, folks queued out the door as they waited to pay far too much for what was essentially the ghost of an ice cream cone.

Then in 2005, a Korean-American woman, Shelly Hwang, opened Pinkberry, a small frozen yogurt store in Los Angeles, unknowingly launching a culinary revolution. It became a West Coast phenomenon. Lines spilled onto neighboring property, stores opened up and down the California coast, and New York saw its first of the franchise open on West 32nd St. in Little Korea-- before surfacing in Chelsea, the Upper East Side, SoHo, and Greenwich Village. And soon to open is a location on West 58th St. opposite the monolithic Time Warner Center-– a tiny space which might have a hard time accommodating all the time-crunched CNN employees who will miss major news if their break lasts too long. (Hopefully Anderson Cooper will get a VIP pass.)

Pinkberry had rightfully earned the nicknames "Crackberry" and "frozen heroin juice" among its unwavering disciples. Manhattan now has frozen yogurt stores in all neighborhoods, most of which bear some semblance to Pinkberry's aesthetic cuteness and trademark dairy product. Yet among all the outlets that surfaced, there would, naturally, be some ample offerings around town...and psychoPEDIA checked them out:

We started in Brooklyn, the Earth Mother's answer to Pinkberry lies on northern Fifth Avenue in Oko, a shop hidden under a canopy made of solar paneling. A treehugger's dream, virtually everything in Oko is made from something else: bamboo, potato starch, sunflower seeds. And with dried apricots and gooseberries offered among its toppings, Oko has cemented its place as the hippie's dairy merchant of choice. Oko's flavors include creamsicle, wildberry, and chocolate, all of which are all delicious.

On to Williamsburg, where /eks/ (pronounced "X") sits in a humble, spacious basement-level space that serves several flavors of fro-yo. Upon a recent visit, a mother and daughter looking as if they'd just arrived from Long Island, spent an ample amount of time deciding whether or not to go with original or coconut. The original flavor at /eks/ is the least sweet of all we sampled, which makes it a great snack after an intense softball game at nearby McCarren Park.

Red Mango has two locations, one of which sits directly across the street from Pinkberry on Bleecker Street, Wild West showdown-style. If Red Mango didn't serve an excellent, creamier alternative to Pinkberry, it surely wouldn't have survived this long. If you've got a hankering for a smoother, more dense texture–- like gelato or ice cream–- Red Mango's the place to go. It definitely fits more into the "dessert" category-- but only has 90 calories a serving.

Yogo Monster steps up the game with ... cones! As expected, their frozen yogurt retains a delightfully tougher, shell-like texture that keeps it from slithering out of your sugar cone. They also have blueberry yogurt, which maintains the especially tarty tang of their original flavor with the added bonus of berry goodness. All of these qualities made Yogo Monster– which stepped into the FroYo game relatively late– a strong contender.

Larry Forgione's Signature Café and 40 Carrots at Lord & Taylor and Bloomingdale's, respectively, both offer frozen yogurt in their indoor, windowless cafes. Each establishment's offerings are very good, as well, if you're looking for more of an alternative to ice cream. Lord & Taylor comes out on top in this case, thanks not only to their offerings of fresh cherry and rhubarb toppings, but also in the opportunity provided to bear witness to the frighteningly bitchy behavior exhibited toward the wait staff by the elderly Ladies Who Lunch (and shop). On the wall sit square pegs that radiate changing pastel colors, which further places one in a time machine where, as the patrons age, the decor remains about as contemporary as Epcot's imagining of the future circa 1985.

~Eliot Glazer


Go There:
/eks/, 488 Driggs Ave, Brooklyn. (718) 599-1706
Yogo Monster, 88 7th Ave, Brooklyn
Larry Forgione's Signature Cafe, 424 Fifth Ave, NYC. (212) 391-3015
40 Carrots, 1000 Third Ave, NYC. (212) 705-3085
Flurt, 284 3rd Ave, NYC. (212) 777-6177
Yolato, 168 W 27th St, NYC. (212) 366-5960


First photo by jrgts via Flickr
Third photo by Melissa Hom
All other photos by Eliot Glazer
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Denim Road-Test: AG Jeans
Aussie Band Cut Copy Give the Classic Jeans a Spin

Aussie electronic-rockers, Cut Copy, know a thing or two about music and fashion. Considering the amount of hip cities they’ve seen while on tour, the inevitable sights of chic dressers has become commonplace. So it’s no surprise they loaned themselves to test out a few pairs of AG (Adriano Goldschmied) jeans while in New York City performing at not just one, but two, sold-out shows; Brooklyn’s Studio B and Manhattan’s Mercury Lounge two nights later.

Founded in 2000 by long-time garment guru, Adriano Goldschmied, the denim brand has since been known within the fashion community as a classic and sophisticated brand. AG handpicked three pairs for the trio– The Teddyboy in a Jet Black wash, and the Stockholm in a Raw Wash and Black Jack Wash– that fused AG’s more classic look with the band’s edgy aesthetic.

Originally a solo effort by lead singer, songwriter, and keyboardist Dan Whitford, Cut Copy later branched out to include Mitchell Scott and bassist Tim Hoey to round out their bridging synth-pop-electronic-disco soundscape. Tim Goldsworthy of DFA records fame took notice and subsequently produced their sophomore LP, In Ghost Colours, out this March on indie-favorite label, Modular Recordings.

Despite hectic scheduling in preparation for their next show, Scott, Hoey and Whitford were able to squeeze in some time with psychoPEDIA to chat about their new AG denim and find out what trends are evolving down under:

What was it like to work with Tim Goldsworthy?
MS: We recorded in the DFA studios here in New York City and were really excited to work with him. Tim’s work is really good quality and his way of production is great. Just being in the studio where they always work in is really cool– right in his own environment. Some of the psychedelic direction he gave us, and generally the way DFA records have gone into lately, was interesting–- the take on the noisy guitar elements, like that shoe-gaze-y My Bloody Valentine elements . The direction given to us in the studio was an unexpected surprise for us, but it was brilliant.

What did you think of the jeans?
MS: The main thing I liked from the jeans was that they weren’t anything too crazy. No brightly colored, crazy or big logos…

How do they fit?
MS: Tight fit, hipsters…

Your favorite thing about them?
MS: [It’s nice that they’re] just normal straight leg, skinny jeans without not too much decoration, trimmings, or stupid stuff. Just a classic look and color to them.

Would you say jeans and fashion in general are being pushed more in America or is it the same on your home turf?
MS: Depends on where you go. There are certain subcultures and smaller communities within the bigger cities that are probably more out there with fashion, and Australia certainly has a lot of that. Many kids in Australia are getting a lot more out there with fashion and color with tailored clothes. I’d say I run across it more in Australia than over here.
TH: I think a certain trend that’s happening in fashion in Australia is that boys are taking more pride in their appearance when they go out to clubs. Something I noticed with an article I read in the paper back home in Australia that boys are spending more time in their appearance when kids are going out. I see kids wearing $1000 leather jackets. And I’m thinking to myself, I could have never bought that kind of clothing when I was at the university! There’s this new phenomenon in Australia where boys are overtaking the girls; trying to push the fashion scene I guess.

Between Melbourne and Sydney, which city would you say is more fashion-conscious and pushing the envelope?
MS: There are a lot more Melbourne-based labels. We have a lot of friends who live and work there. I think Sydney is a lot louder; brighter colors and such. I think it reflects the weather. Nobody is really jumping out in pastels in Melbourne, that’s only really happening in Sydney.

Does the band wear jeans much on tour?
DW: All the time. It’s great because you get away without washing them for three weeks while touring, which I don’t recommend.
MS: Yeah… that’s totally true.

~Jessica McMenamin


First photo by Emilie Elizabeth
Third photo by Tommy Salmon
Fourth photo by Tim Cashmere via Flickr
Fifth photo courtesy of Cut Copy
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Road-Test: Ipso Facto's Essentials
The Cartoon Guitar Perverts Love Drums & Black Berets

Ipso Facto have crept into the consciousness of the young British public like a black and white vision of kittens jumping through magnifying glasses in a dream you once had after a night of red wine, Disney movies, and licorice cigarettes. These dream-like visions are not randomly conjured likenesses, but rather, what one imagines when listening to the band who were recently earmarked by a popular English broadsheet as the sole inspiration for YSL's show for Paris Fashion Week.

The four young girls— singer Rosie Cunningham, drummer Victoria Smith, keyboardist Cherish Kaya, and bassist Samantha Valentine— have come a long way in their first year together. Having started with a handful of psychedelic fairground ditties, they have hurtled into ‘08 with a number of sold-out singles and support shows for Yeasayer, and have become mini fashion icons. When a band this exciting comes around, most people obsess over the immediate now’s, how’s, and why’s— but with Ipso Facto, one can’t help but imagine them in ten years— playing with a full orchestra, with their own film, comic book, cartoon show, and faces splattered on lunch boxes.

psychoPEDIA got together with Cunningham and Smith to discuss cartoons, the Spice Girls, and the things they can’t live without:

What can't you live without these days?
RC: The black beret, because you can hide behind that. It pushes your fringe down so people can’t see that you have no eye make up on, you can go out with no makeup and shit clothes on, but as long as you have that black beret, you can survive.
VS: What about black tights?
RC: Yeah, but everyone has them. The black beret is better. If I feel rough, I can put on the black beret, and I’ll be fine.
VS: OK, then my drumsticks from Vic Firth, I can’t live without them. I break a set of sticks every gig. But we are talking song lifespan here. Regular sticks last two songs, but Vic Firth [last] about seven songs. Without them I wouldn’t be able to drum.

Are you quite anal about what instruments you use, then?
RC: I have always been a bit of a guitar pervert. It’s not a new thing, and it’s not like I can afford any of the guitars I perve [lust] over.
VS: I have that with electric drum kits as well, just because I could never afford one.

What instruments would you get if you had the money?
RC: Easy— a 1965 Fender Mustang in cream and brown.
VS: Mine would be a Roland B Series, but any grade really. It’s an electric drum kit for those who don’t know.

Were you just lucky that your style was similar in the group, or was there ever a point where you had to say to another band member, “You can’t wear those jeans on stage!”
RC: When we met we were lucky that we came from hanging out at the same places and dressed very similarly. But the whole black and white thing was a conscious decision— only so we could have some kind of uniform that people could identify [us] with.

Doesn’t the fact everyone could look like you in a year scare you?
VS: Kind of, because what if it becomes faddy? If it's connected with fashion, then it’s a short term thing, and we aren’t a short term thing and don’t want to be involved with a fad.

Is this black and white aesthetic something you’d like to stick with, like Ramones' philosophy of “dress the same till you die?"
VS: I would rather that than have to “Madonna-it-up” and keep re-inventing myself. That would totally go against our authenticity.
RC: We will develop, but perhaps not image-wise— definitely musically. The other day, I turned up to a gig in brown and white and got in a bit of trouble.

Is there a danger that so early in your careers, you could be scared to change anything?
RC: Not really. If we stick to the whole "look" thing, that means we can experiment however we like with the music.
VS: It’s interesting how the simplicity and predictability of image can draw people in obsessively.
RC: And the Spice Girls were a prime example of that. Victoria’s your Scary Spice. I would be Ginger, the confident one with the big boobs. Sam is Posh, the sexy one. And Cherish is the youngest, so she is Baby Spice.

I could also see you guys as a cartoon show like The Beatles had.
RC: Funny you say that, because some old guy approached us after a gig [saying] that he was an animator and that we were literally perfect cartoon material. I wish we could be made into a cartoon.

Is it strange hearing people describe you as being “too cool for school?”
RC: I guess we do seem like a sophisticated black-and-white, Nazi secretary, harsh females kind of thing, but it’s not how we are as people. We are more like cartoon characters in real life.

~Kevin Soar


Second photo by masatoo_hirano via Flickr
Third photo by K-Camp via Flickr
Fifth photo by 154 Photography via Flickr
Sixth photo by graguitar via Flickr
Eighth photo by Kevin Soar
Ninth photo via STEREO4
Tenth & Eleventh photos by John Lewis via Flickr
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Alcohol Road-Test: Lucid Absinthe
Brooklyn's Mixel Pixel Gossip at "Green Hour"

Whether or not they’d recognize it, Mixel Pixel are bona fide Brooklyn bohemians. A collective of visual artists, beauty-product artisans, and of course, musicians, their day jobs also include being a part-time assistant to a dermatologist and freelance designer. But when they’re not busy with an endless list of offbeat endeavors, members Rob Corradetti, Kaia Wong, and Matty Kaukeinen practice in a Park Slope studio, working on albums like their soon-to-come fourth release, Let’s Be Friends.

Who better to test Lucid, the first legal absinthe in America after 95 years of prohibition, than the trio that produces addictive, psychedelic pop tunes and hallucinogenic videos? As Wong has even been known to brew her own absinthe at home, not to mention making a line of lip balms and soaps— Lips by Wong— the three were more than happy to lend their lips to the challenge.

In true bohemian fashion, psychoPEDIA joined the band to savor absinthe on the floor of Corradetti’s apartment and ponder over the historically mystical potion:

Any previous experiences with absinthe?
RC: We drank it in San Francisco once at a house party. My friend and I were walking around feeling like we were floating. That was the only absinthe I’ve had that felt like it was actually doing something. Maybe they’ve improved it [the formula]. I’m still skeptical.
MK: I think Kaia’s given me some before.
RC: There’s such a cloud of mystery around it that we don’t know what we’ve had. I guess it’s the kind of thing where you’ll never know if you get the real deal. It almost has to be reinvented.

Kaia prepares the drinks by putting sugar cubes in a tea strainer and pouring shots of absinthe over the cubes. Next, she pours cold water over the cube, which creates a “loosh” effect making a cloudy liquid that releases an anise-fused perfume into the air.

Initial reactions?
KW: It’s very mild. It tastes very anise-y and sweet— but not syrupy.
RC: It tastes like New York City tap water. It’s pretty green, too.
MK: It’s almost like the alcohol and the other ingredients are two separate entities twirling about in my mouth. It’s a hootenanny! It’s delicious, though.

What would you pair it with?
RC: It would go well with opium.
MK: I could definitely use a cigarette with this. It would make any American cigarette taste like Gauloises.
RC: It seems like you should be able to sit at a bar, drink it, and smoke for hours and talk to your friends, or “bohemian cohorts.” But if you can’t smoke in bars in NYC, it sort of ruins the whole effect of the absinthe bar.

Why do you think absinthe is such a cult-classic beverage with artists?
RC: I think a lot of the allure was how it was prepared. It’s this big “to-do” and seems very glamorous to drink. And the effect— how it makes people actually feel is a big part of it.
MK: It’s known as one of the best aphrodisiacs. Back when it was first made, it was like the “liquor of love.” Remember in Bram Stoker’s Dracula when Winona Ryder and Keanu Reeves go into a club and he pours her absinthe over a sugar cube, then Winona sucks on the cube…

Most of your videos are pretty trippy. Were you under the influence of something at the time?
RC: We all did our share of psychotropic, hallucinogenic drugs. We don’t consider ourselves a “drug band,” though, because we don’t do a lot of drugs. I like the idea of playing with drug culture and people’s perceptions of it. But we’re more spiritual than we maybe come across. It’s OK, because in pop culture, you have two seconds to impress a person. Someone will scan through songs, and critics won’t even listen to your album. So, I like that we almost project this hyper-media, hyper-reality— and drugs is one of those things.

What is your vice of choice then?
RC: Law and Order—because I have three channels on my TV.
KW: French onion soup.

What is the process brewing homemade absinthe?
KW: I use strong vodka with herbs, including wormwood. It tastes different than this— maybe I didn’t put in so much anise. I use kits and infuse the alcohol with herbs.

How did you get into making lip balms?
KW: About eight years ago, I looked online and found a lip balm that was made of all ingredients you can eat. It seemed nice to be able to make your own homemade lip balms and give them to friends. I made an absinthe balm once, actually, using the leftover herbs from brewing in the mix. I make them for bands, and I’m releasing a vegan organic one soon— not using palm oils, because palms are harvested from areas where orangutans live, and it’s threatening their habitat. I’m trying to keep it environmentally good also.

How “green” of you. Speaking of which, what do you think of the bottle?
KW: It’s kind of like that guy in Looney Tunes.
RC: They could have a cut-away head with a transparent green brain inside of it, glowing.

Is it making you feel lucid?
RC: I feel a bit looser, a little cloudy. It looks cloudy. I get it.
KW: It’s just nice to focus on what you’re consuming and your company.

What are you working on musically right now?
RC: We have an album coming out in late May. It’s sort of a return to old Mixel Pixel, like Casio-style.
KW: It’s sweeter. We wrote a lot of the songs together, and they were directly influenced by whatever was going on in our lives. You’ll have us singing and playing with guitar to some new synth incarnation.

Like absinthe has been previously, what would you want to ban in the US if you had the power?
RC: They should ban all complaining "diet talk" in the workplace. If there's a delicious ice cream cake on the table for someone’s birthday, people can’t enjoy it. Someone’s always got to say something like, “But I’m so fat, I’ve got to go on a diet.” Let’s just have cake and have some fun!

Any last impressions?
KW: I feel calmer drinking this as opposed to drinking two shots of whiskey. I feel like taking a warm bath.
RC: It’s not that bad. Once you get it going, it’s pretty delicious.

How do you think they could bring this back in fashion?
RC: There should be a line of them, like Vitamin Water. 50 Cent flavor absinthe. These companies need to get rappers to endorse their product— some rappers in vintage 1910 dandy costumes.
KW: With feather hats.

Maybe bringing “green hour” to replace “happy hour?”
RC: Absinthe green hour, why not? Between 9 and 10 in the morning, before work— the “Green Hour,” after breakfast. It’s [absinthe] optional— you can eat lettuce too.

~Leann Peterson


First & second photo by James Ryang for paperrad
Third photo by Twon via Flickr
Fourth through ninth photos by Leann Peterson
Tenth photo by Lori Baily via Flickr
Eleventh photo by Nevbrown via Flickr
Twelfth photo by Amber Meairs
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Restaurant Road-Test: Blue Ribbon Sushi
Brit-Band Switches Take On Midtown (And Chopsticks)

Outside the restaurant, a publicist for Switches is on the phone giving directions to the lost Brit band as they try and find their way on a windy night in Midtown Manhattan. Blue Ribbon Sushi's newest outpost, at Six Columbus hotel, makes a welcome addition in Columbus Circle and is not far from where the band is staying– right next to the Late Show with David Letterman. They are in the midst of a US tour with the Brooklyn band The Bravery, promoting their latest album, Lay Down The Law. Switches have attracted the attention of two dominating forces in the British music scene: Radio 1, and the weekly paper NME, which wrote, "Switches can be confident that they are one of the finest purveyors of lip-smacking indie pop delicacies in the land." Their sound is not stripped-down guitar garage rock, but Beach Boys-influenced, power-pop harmonies.

A minute later they arrive for dinner in a flurry from the cold. "No one sounds like us right now. There's a big trend in the UK to be a regional band. To sing in your own accent. It's a bit sceney and we want to be bigger then that," says lead singer and the band’s songwriter Matt Bishop, wearing grape-colored jeans and patent leather high-top sneakers.

The restaurant seems more then double the size of its downtown sisters. There’s not an empty seat in the windowless, wood-paneled room, which is packed with Midtown tourists in business casual. Switches’ table is the only one with five young men all donning some variation of a shag. I assume this must be the reason our waitress, Sunanta, appoints me in charge of relaying all orders. That, or the amber light makes them look like a group foreign teenagers who don't speak the language.

We order Asahi beers and Bloody Mariko's (wasabi, spicy sauce, tomato juice and vodka). Sunanta rolls off a list of suggested appetizers: shrimp and pork shumai, hijiki salad, and scallops. "I don't eat sushi. I'll try it one of these days. Just not today. Are they going to bring forks and knives?" the drummer Steve Godfrey, aka "Beans," states, smelling of too much cheep cologne. "Tommy Hilfiger. I'm always running out," he offers, ordering another beer. "I like Asahi. Write that. Beans likes Asahi. And the waitress– she's cute."

Bishop plays around with his chopsticks. "I've never been able to use these," he says, trying to get it right. Bassist Ollie Thomas tries to soothe the situation. "I'm the band foodie," he says as he dips a shumai into wasabi. He has wide, Harry Potter-like blue eyes and is eager to tell me about his food experiences on the road: alligator in Louisiana, Artz Rib House in Austin, and a bus driver in Mississippi who ate goldfish. "These taste like real dumplings. Prawns, mate," bassist Thom Kirkpatrick tells a reluctant Beans who orders the orange duck breast entree. "I don't have a girlfriend," Beans goes on, "Haven't met the right one. But I figure if I just stick to the drums. I like Japanese girls." I tell him he may want to start eating sushi.

Making it in North America is difficult for a foreign band, but means a whole other level of success if they do. "Recording in LA was one of the best experiences of my life," Bishop says of making the Lay Down the Law on Sunset Boulevard. Ollie slides a piece a raw salmon onto the edge of Beans’ plate and gently coerces him. "Go on, mate. Try it. Do it for me." Beans bites, and the table cheers. "I'm really going for it now," Beans says stabbing his fork into a Maki roll. "I met The Vines after a show we played out there. That was a dream meeting. We grew up worshipping them and Blur and Pulp. Bands who were ambitious. The scene in England is small-minded." An enormous platter of chef’s choice, Omacasa, is placed before him. "I don't want to sound corny, but we want to take on the world." Bishop continues disassembling the bones of the twisted silver mackerel centerpiece with his fingers. "But we also want to make good music that we're proud of. We'd feel dirty if we didn't do that." Kirkpatrick pulls himself away from conversation with their publicist and his venison stew to report: "It's cooked in wine. A bit alcoholic, with these big semicircle things with holes in them. It's tasty, mate." Sunanta comes to my side, and I order green tea ice cream for the table. "And a cognac," Bishop adds.

Sunata brings me the check and bowls of the milky tea bags. "Texture’s nice, isn't it" Bishop says. "I just hope I don't get sick from all that fish. Big show tomorrow night." It turns out the restaurant has no idea who Switches are or that dinner was arranged to be complementary. I began to unravel the miscommunication as the band leaves for their hotel. "You should meet us at the bar in the lobby. It's perfectly faded with a run-down sort of glamour," Thomas tells me. The night goes on, and I wait at Blue Ribbon for phone calls and faxes to come in so that I don’t get stuck with the bill. I never make it to the bar to talk more about Switches’ plans to storm North America. But I do see them play the next night when they open up for The Bravery at Terminal 5. Shags hair-sprayed high, singing in harmony with the unsettled outcome of the previous night’s dinner not really weighing heavily on their minds (or in their stomachs). It remains to be seen whether Switches will make it big in the US, but at least we could agree that Blue Ribbon was by far the best meal in Midtown.

~Sara M Costello

Go There:
Blue Ribbon Sushi, W 58th St, NYC. (212) 397-0404.

Last photo by Bill Ellison
All other photos by Sara M Costello
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Video Game Road-Test:
Mario and Sonic at the Olympics

Comedian Joe Mande Would Rather Be Hunting Nazis

As a comedian on the downtown circuit, Joe Mande's name is quickly garnering buzz. Along with Noah Garfinkle, Mande hosts a weekly show at Rififi called Totally J/K, in which he tells stories, shares videos, and invites on guest performers. In just over a year, Totally J/K has quickly become a staple in the alternative scene, garnering some of the biggest names in comedy that fly just under the radar (although don't be surprised to see powerhouses Eugene Mirman, Todd Barry and Demetri Martin drop by to work out a set, either).

Having just been named New York's top Emerging Comic by the ECNY Awards in January, Mande has honed an onstage style that combines dry, self-deprecation, personal anecdotes, and, most recently, an extensive explanation of his newfound weakness for his treasured Nintendo Wii. Without regret, Joe has commandeered the stage on several occasions to sing the praises of what is, quite obviously, his most treasured possession. In his own words, just call him "Joe Mand-wii."

Just after he returned from touring with comedian John Mulaney, psychoPEDIA caught up with Joe at his apartment in Astoria to check out a new release for Wii, Mario And Sonic At The Olympic Games So, you're a huge Wii fan?
Yes. Huge. My brain can't handle anything beyond [the original] Sega Genesis, but the Wii is a different case. It doesn't care if you suck. It's an amazing machine.

Were you a Sega kid?
Completely.

There was definitely a divide among Nintendo kids and Sega kids.
Yeah, I was late on the whole video game thing. I was old when my parents got us a Sega. I was ten...which is apparently really old.

Have you continued playing games since then?
No, not until I got the Wii. In high school, I started doing stand-up and improv and stuff.

I didn't know you did improv.
Yeah, I'm not really good at it. I always come up with the best material three days later.

Instead, you've stuck with stand-up?
I started doing stand up when I was about sixteen, but after every show, I would quit for three months at a time and pledge to never do it again. I was trying so hard to be "edgy," and I was sixteen and doing open mics at Knuckleheads in the Mall of America at 5:30 in the afternoon for housewives. It was so awful.

You seem to have found your "voice," right? You're very natural on-stage.
Yeah, you could say that. I'm lucky in that I don't get stage fright.

In your case, I think it helps that there isn't much of a difference between your on-stage and off-stage personas.
Yeah. In fact, I was telling someone a story the other day, and it was weird because it felt like I was just doing stand-up. There are some comedians that are so different in real life than they are on stage, and I can appreciate that. But I'm just being myself, i guess.

Mario and Sonic at the Olympics covers a lot of popular events. What's your favorite?
I think the Ribbon Dancing competition is it. It's so good. It's just like, 'So, this is happening?'

It would be cool if they implemented playing the Wii as an Olympic event.
Maybe. Did you know that the athletes have to wear 9/11 masks in Beijing this year?

Would you recommend this game?
No. It blows. It's like the opposite of the real Olympics. It mocks you when you lose, and the Friendship Award [you receive upon losing] is complete bullshit.

It is really confusing.
Maybe you have to be an actual Olympic athlete to play this game. Although [the event] Skeet is awesome because, you know, 'Skeet skeet skeet!' The bottom line is [that] no video game will ever be as therapeutic as Wolfenstein 3D.

What's that?
It used to my favorite game. It was exactly like Doom, except you were killing Nazis. You were running around bunkers, killing Nazis. It was bonkers! I bet I would make a good video game reviewer.

What's the final word on Mario and Sonic?
It's just stupid. I'd say there's no story line. I love when video game reviews say there's no "narrative arc." That doesn't mean anything. But seriously, there's no narrative arc in this game.

Do you play video games while on tour?
Oh no. I wish. There's no bus or anything. [John Mulaney and I] literally rented a car and drove from little college to little college. It was great. I'm just now trying to comprehend what life would be like as a stand-up. When I moved to New York after graduating [from Emerson College in Boston], I thought I could just get a comedy writing job. I had no clue - I didn't have any clips or a reel, I had this attitude that I could do anything. But then I started doing stand-up, and met all these people who wrote for TV shows and The Onion, and they were miserable. But I love doing stand up, so if I can do that without someone telling me what to do, why not?

~Eliot Glazer

Joe will be appearing at "Serious Lunch" at the Upright Citizens Brigade Theater on 2/29 @ 6:30; "I Like Attention" at Sound Fix Records on 3/6 @ 8:00pm in Williamsburg NY; "Slumber Party" at Comix on 3/26 @ 8:00pm

First, second, and seventh photos by Anya Garrett via Flickr
Fifth photo by Eliot Glazer
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Pub Road-Test: Amersham Arms
London Art Collective Crystal Vision on the Art of Sandwiches

Crystal Vision is a collective of seven creative minds– a neat bunch of illustrators, cut-and-pasters, video makers, costume specialists, and in general, spontaneous and quirky visionaries– all with a debt to the talents of London’s Camberwell College. With a series of projects in tow (an upcoming 'zine fair and a current show at East London’s Dreambags and Jaguar Shoes bringing together all seven artists), there is much to look forward to with this burgeoning group. But unlike their fellow South-Londoners, the children of !wowwow!, of whom Crystal Vision has been quoted as a "budget version," the collective shies away from being pigeonholed in any particular art or fashion scene to avoid the trite and fleeting tags of "next big thing" or "cult cool."

With the group's feet grounded in the heart of gritty south London, psychoPEDIA decided to take members James Tanner, Oli Jennings and Will Rigby, to sample the lunchtime offerings of a local Irish boozer, which has recently become a popular hang-out– Amersham Arms. It even doubles as an art gallery and performance venue and is known for its outstanding pies. Shaping up to be quite the event, with James having been previously barred from an Amersham event and the pub having an untimely power-cut (meaning no hot food), the collective crept in for sandwiches and cocktails:

How does this compare to your other local drinking establishments?
OJ: Its no fox on the hill.
JT: They definitely killed off the old place. No old men or crazy drunks in here anymore. Have been to some good gigs here in the back bit, too.
OG: Before you were thrown out.
WG: It’s just a shame we can’t sample the pies today.

Sandwiches it is, then. What are our choices?
OJ: Limited to 6 options. I’ll have Brie and Tomato then.
JT: Roast chicken and sweet chili.
WG: Roast chick…
OJ: We can’t all have the same!
WG: Ok, Ham and Aloei

Does the name Crystal Vision have anything to do with magic?
OJ: It definitely has nothing to do with that Fleetwood Mac song. We didn’t know about that until after.
JT: I didn’t know about it until now. But I think it had something to do with Grandmaster Flash, “visions, dreams of…”
WG: “The Golden Virgins” got banded around.
OJ: We all like crystals, as well. Will used to collect crystals.
WG: I did, yes.
OJ: It just sounds nicer the more you say it.

Do you work like a superhero team, with each member having a specific ability?
WG: We all have different styles. Dan is more into comic-based stuff and works in different ways from the rest of us.
JT: But there is a common ethos within the group.

And how would you describe this common ethos?
JT: A lot of it is based around music and celebrity. We are also all into paper rad.

[Sandwiches arrive]

Who’s the best sandwich-maker in Crystal Vision?
OJ: We all make good sandwiches. Its kind of a thing we do, if we weren’t artists…
WG: I’m big into tuna melts at the moment.

Would you classify yourselves as sandwich artists, then? Better than Subway?
WG: I like Subway. I don’t see where all the negativity comes from.
OJ: Rory [from Crystal Vision] is always “Subway’s bollocks, Subway’s bollocks,” but I like it.

How are the sandwiches then?
JT: The chicken isn’t exactly roast chicken, but the sweet chili part of it is nice.
WG: My ham sandwich is good though, just like ham and mustard really.
OJ: I would expect more meat in your sandwiches for £3.50, but they saved it with the bread, which is pretty good.
JT: Kettle chips are the best crispy, so that’s a plus point.
OJ: It’s bad news about the power-cut, because we are hard to please with sandwiches. I think Brie is the winner, though!

Does the collective act as kind of a cushion for your solo careers, something to hold your hand as you enter the creative world?
JT: It’s a good platform for us to show our work, though we’ve never worked collectively on one piece of artwork yet.

How would you do that as a collective though? It would be tough splitting the money between all of you.
JT: The shows would hopefully lead to getting people who would be interested in particular artists and would take them off to do work. Everyone would be supported by everyone else.
WG: Like Power Rangers.

It’s like the Wu Tang Clan, who all got good solo projects out of their group and helped each other on the way. Who’s your GZA, the genius?
OJ: I want to be the RZA and make the Gravediggers album.
JT: Dan is Ol' Dirty Bastard.

What was the premise behind your current show?
WG: There wasn’t a particular theme, but everyone’s work seemed to have revolved around idolism by accident. There were aspects of celebrities, the totem pole, musicians, worship.

Do you involve yourselves in the London art scene?
JT: Most of us don’t go to the traditional exhibitions and galleries. We are a lot more aware and influenced by pop-culture.

Sandwiches must have been all right, as you finished them pretty quickly.
OJ: Overall, they were good. But, we are genuinely good sandwich critiques. We make pretty special sandwiches ourselves, as James and I used to work together in a café making them. Where are those cocktails?

[They ordered: a Ford Cosmo-Tina (citrus vodka, cointreau, orange bitters, lime, cranberry) Bristol 401 (gin/lemon juice/gomme/crème de mures), Hackney Carriage (dark rum, lime juice, ginger beer), and a Magic Bus (tequila/cointreau, orange and cranberry)]

Did you used to make cocktails as well?
OJ: I did, sandwiches and cocktails-- they can’t get anything past me.
JT: The Hackney Carriage is great, a winter warmer cocktail.
WG: And, a summer drink at the same time. They have all the right ingredients to my tastes: cheap, alcoholic, and fruity. It’s all there. I could easily get wasted on this.
OJ: Why are they named after cars?

Whose is the best?
WG: The ginger one-- the Hackney Carriage.
JT: You can’t go wrong with 2 for £6.
OJ: I really like this Cosmo-tina. But I would have to drink it sitting down and hiding. It has a very feminine look. Would have to hide from them geezers.

~Kevin Soar

Sixth, seventh, and eighth photos by Vicky Hayward
All other photos by Kevin Soar
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Road-Test: Lady Mendl's Tea Salon
High Tea Time Hitting All the Right G-Spots

‘Tis rainy-wet-cold in New York, the sort of weather that is tolerable if you are in London– where that sort of behavior, on the part of the climate, is romantic. Where there are enough matronly ladies to say, "Oh dear, not the gym, Love." Of course, they will laugh at the silly idea of anyone huffing away on a pretend staircase when there are crumpets to be had. "You need a spot of tea, Love." I really do. I need that spot. And no, not the kind spraying out of spigots, served in cardboard. I want proper tea, like Alice had. I want a Wonderland too.

But then, I don't want the kind of tea I once had at the George V Four Seasons in Paris, where it was endless quantities of crème and decadence. For, if you are a gal who can't say no – as perhaps I might be considered, when presented with tiers of lusciousness – then you find yourself saying, “Oh, I won't be needing this very quaint teacup and saucer and plate. Do you have anything in, say, a trough?”

I want warmth. I want the UK, but not Sweeney Todd. I want to dress up, but not feel like I need a bumper sticker that reads: “My other outfit is Armani.” I want to be sedated and sated. I want it to be a G-spot kind of tea.

Lady Mendl's Tea Salon, so my non-matronly friend prescribed.
"They won't Hansel and Gretel you. And then you go to the gym."
"No gym. Want tea."
"The servers are hot. They are the crumpets. You'll want to go to the gym after."

It is located in a Henry James-ish brownstone that's almost speakeasy-hard to find, which adds a delicious air of exclusivity. And when I raise my pinkie as I drink my cup, I will have extra good reason, too.

As soon as I enter, the charming lads help with the umbrellas, the wet coats. Oh, and they have charming accents. We are not in New York City anymore – we have all agreed. If we were in New York City, there would not be nice soaps and lotions (normally bolted down as they are in an airplane), resting so very vulnerably in the charming porcelain and wood loo.

And the portions are just right– they give you just enough. Lots of liquids, they keep that flowing at the tea party. Lovely selections for all tastes, caffeinated and herbal. Elegant china teapots, cups and saucers. The sandwiches may be small, but we are ladies, not Augustus Gloop. The cakes and scones are just the right size to be able to go the gym after, and not pass out in a sugar-clotted crème-hysterical haze about what just was swallowed. Oh, and the servers are so attentive. And tres attractive. They will even feed me with their tongs – testing how close they can get and not lose fingers, perhaps? ‘Tis safe?

Ahh, who needs silverware?! I am not an uptight Brit after all! Thank god! I am a hungry gal from Brooklyn who found G-spot tea! We are all in agreement. This is someplace else. It is not too stuck-up, and not at all Starbucks. It is just right.

~Laura Albert

Sunglasses by Blinde, style "88 Specials"
Clothing by Miss Sixty
Lipstick by Smashbox
Hair by Rudy Riveria

Go There:
Lady Mendl's Tea Salon, 56 Irving Place, NYC. (212) 533-4466
*Reservations required for 5-course tea; served Wed-Fri at 3pm and 5pm, or Sat-Sun at 2pm or 4:30pm
*$30 or $45 per person plus tax and gratuity

Last photo, courtesy of My Sweet Connection

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Road-Test: What Holy Fuck Wants
The Toronto Band on Their Must-Have Products

For a band dubbed “Toronto’s evil supergroup,” Holy Fuck is actually quite affable. The lo-fi electro group—founded in 2004 by Brian Borcherdt and Graham Walsh (both on keyboards and vocals)—has in its many incarnations toured with the likes of Wolf Parade, !!! and Cornelius. Considering the band's eclectic sound and their extensive international travel experience, we figured, who better to ask about their latest obsessions?

While Holy Fuck’s line up and musical accompaniments (instruments are often sourced from trash bins) have varied from show to show, their reputation for making mesmerizing music has stayed solid. We caught up with the Canadian foursome (Borcherdt, Walsh, Brad Kilpatrick and Matt McQuaid) at Maxwell's in Hoboken, just before they took the stage to open for Super Furry Animals. Here, they offer insight on the products they can't live without.

You guys have done quite a bit of touring, most recently with !!!...
BB: Yeah it was like the question mark versus the exclamation mark. It was like a grammar rodeo.

Were they a lot of fun to tour with?
MM: Definitely. We’ve been lucky we only tour with nice bands.

What’s the number one thing you miss about home when you’re on the road?
GW: Probably our girlfriends.
BB: I miss my cat.
MM: I’m pretty partial to my own bed…
BB: My bed sucks I don’t care.
GW: I’ve got hookups for you. My sister works for the Four Seasons and she can get crazy discounts [on Stearns & Foster.

Aren’t those like $3,000 mattresses?
GW: Yep, only we pay $500! If they do a big order it’s super-cheap.

Have you picked up any particularly interesting products abroad?
MM: I got this slimy, waxy lip stuff [called Lip Therapy] in the UK that’s lasted forever. It comes in a little tube. It’s in a little round tube and it’s Vaseline brand. But I’ve never found it the same way. It has aloe in it.
BB: It’s probably whale…[laughs].
BK: And the Yorkie bars. Yorkie bar: not for girls. There’s a picture of a girl on it with a slash through it.
MM: Maybe that just means they’re no girls in the
BB: It’s not tested on girls. I was eating those magnum chocolate covered chocolate ice cream bars a lot. I was out there in the UK when it was freezing, eating them; our tour manager thought I was crazy.
MM: There’s also a Danish candy called Skipper Skraw that was the tentative title for one of the songs our album. We still call it that sometimes, but we had to name it something else because we didn’t want to get sued by some crazy ...

Out of all of your instruments, what’s your favorite?
BB: Tuba [laugs].
GW: My favorite thing to play is this little synth that I have. A friend gave it to me. I don’t know where it’s from. It’s called the Rhythmic8 and unfortunately I've never seen another one except for a guy from Australia was selling it online. It’s probably this big [gesturing with his hands]. And all the sounds are 8 bit. They sound like a Nintendo. It’s straight out of a video game. Even though you can't really find that particular synth, there's a company out of Gothenburg, Sweden called Elektron that makes a synth out of the circuit of a Commodore 64. It sounds amazing...if anyone knows where I can get another Rythmic8 keyboard, let me know! They're super rare!
MM: That’s my favorite too.

Do you ever get to play it?
MM: No, no I don’t.

Do you ever buy new instruments?
[They slowly nod in unison.]

Is it true that you “find [instruments] in the trash and plug it in?”
GW: Yeah, we’ll do that too. That’s cool. We’ll pull thing out of the trash… like Bryan’s film synchronizer. It makes wicked sounds.
BB: I stole a butter knife from the kitchen I’m going to use that tonight. I’ll be wielding it around manically. That’s before the show even starts.

You've played some pretty big shows—the Glastonbury festival included. How was that?
BB: Money… and chaotic fun… drunk…
GW: It wasn’t like most festivals cause we were camping so we were roughing it. Plus, it’s just huge. But it was a lot of fun.
BB: I thought we were getting shitty treatment. I was like, ‘I can’t believe they’re making us stay in these tents!’ And then the Who were staying right next to us, getting all upset, the mud was getting all over their outfits. Yea they blew the helicopter budget on Arcade Fire so… it was cool. It was fun meeting them and hanging out.

~Interview by Abbey Braden
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Restaurant Road-Test: Lunetta
Artist Mathew Cerletty on Manhattan’s Recent Acquisition

In New York, the tried-and-true formula of restaurants setting up shop in Manhattan, then expanding to include an outer-borough outpost, has proven popular. (Think Blue Ribbon and Café Habana, which have both set up sister spaces across the river.) But today the reverse seems to be happening.

In the wake of Brooklyn eateries like Aurora and Frankies 457 installing Manhattan outposts, comes Lunetta--the Flatiron-located sister to the original Boerum Hill eatery. (And the trend hasn’t stopped there: Brooklyn boutique Oak recently opened a new outpost on Bond Street, while Williamsburg's Black and White Gallery debuted a second space in Chelsea.)

Eager to taste the latest from Lunetta chef/co-owner Adam Shepard, we enlisted the help of artist Mathew Cerletty, a seasoned Brooklyn resident who’s no stranger to the commute (he’s represented by the East Village's Rivington Arms Gallery). The budding art star recently wrapped up a solo show at Soho's Team Gallery and is enjoying some quiet time before heading to Antwerp this fall to show at Office Baroque. Considering Cerletty has shied away from press in the past (appearances such Vanity Fair's Hedi Slimane-photographed feature are few and far between), fine Italian fare proved an ideal excuse. Here, over the course of a leisurely three-hour dinner, Cerletty discusses panna cotta and channeling Paul Giamatti:

What do you think of the place?
It’s nice. I like the lights. There’s lots of space here compared to most restaurants in Manhattan. I never realized this was like a furniture district. I need new furniture; I’m going to have to come back here. What is it, Wednesday?

Yep, Wednesday…
[Referring to the menu] Whole Grilled Snapper day…

[The waitress explains the cocktail menu—a selection of Prosecco-based concoctions currently substituting for Lunetta’s soon-to-be-opened full-bar.]

I think I have to do the normal thing. Is there a glass of red that you recommend? Something dry, full-bodied?
Waitress: There’s a really nice Syrah…
I’ll try that.

[The waitress tells us about the specials.]

Do you have any favorites?
Waitress: The Butternut Mezzalune, served with a butter and sage sauce. The Duck Agnolotti, which actually means pope hats. It’s little triangle pastas filled with duck. All our Bruschette are awesome. The Ricotta with hazelnut and lemon zest is a favorite. We make the Ricotta in house. The scallops are excellent; and the Veal Saltimbocca, which means jumps in your mouth, like it’s so delicious it jumps into your mouth. It’s pounded flat so it’s very tender and served with pancetta and little potato croquets.

[We settle on Octopus, Ricotta Bruschette, Veal Saltimbocco, Scallops and Duck Angnolotti.]

That was very detailed. I never listen to them actually. Every once in a while there'll be an ingredient that I'm like, oh, ‘I liked that,’ but then it's gone. Have you ever had a waiter be really aloof, with a chip on their shoulder? Never make eye contact with them. It establishes a hierarchy. Just don't look over when they look at you; it's humiliating. My friend told me that, he's a psychiatrist.

Are you saying we should do that now?
No, she's too nice and attentive.

How's the wine she suggested?
Okay this time I'm going to really pay attention. [He swirls and sips] I learned that from Paul Giamatti. That’s good. I’d recommend that.

[The chef sends out a plate of fried Zucchini.] Those are good chips. [Next comes the Bruschette.] That's delicious. Like desert.

How long have you lived in Williamsburg?
Four years. I don’t particularly want to live there. I don’t like that it’s so homogenous. It feels like a copout. If you’re going to live in New York it should be like this [gesturing out the window] with the tall buildings, tons of different kinds of people all over the place doing different things. But, having a studio and an apartment, I would have to get a live/work and I think I might get really weird then. It would be bad if I didn't have to talk to someone once a day. I would start believing in things that weren't true [laughs].

[The octopus arrives.] That’s its face [pointing to the larger piece in the center of the plate]. The face is the best part—a lot of people don’t know that and go for the legs. My old roommate was trying to tell me that the octopus is the smartest animal in the world. Not true. He believed it based on seeing one NOVA special where an octopus opened a jar or something.

So what is the smartest animal?
I don’t know the answer to that. But I looked up the octopus and it said: the octopus is very smart, intelligence equivalent to the house cat. The dolphin is famous for it’s intelligence, also the ape. But those aren’t as smart as the Bonobo, the Gorilla and [pause] I guess Chimpanzees are smart. I think Orangutans are really good with language, whereas Bonobos are really good at doing it with each other. I don’t know what’s the best, but they’re clearly all smarter than the octopus.

Do you like the dish?
Yes, it’s delicious. It’s weirdly tender.

[Next come the veal, duck and scallops.]

What do you think?
These are really good tater tots [digging into the veal]. And the scallops, you can’t go wrong with those. This is the duck pasta? She called them pope hats. I don’t think that’s a technical term… that’s good. But this [pointing to the scallops] might be the winner for me.

What’s the overall rating?
Number one goes to the scallops; number two to the pope hats; and three to the Ricotta Bruschette.

So what are you working on right now?
I just finished two big paintings of the North Face logo. I’ve been doing all of these logos that are text, mostly commercial stuff [Diet Coke and The Economist included]. I don't like saying I paint logos and make them my own; I just don't want it to sound like a weird formula.

So how do you choose them?
They just keep popping up. The things that I pick I usually have a relationship with. Like North Face, in high school the kids who had the North Face jackets were the cool rich people. I just liked the design of it and I wanted to try and do something that would be surprising; it's such a well-designed logo and it's also familiar. It's sort of challenging to take something that already has so much baggage and try to pull it over and say, ‘No, that's mine now.’

Is this at all reactionary to your having received so much praise for your portraiture at the beginning of your career?
Definitely. This was new for me so it was exciting in that sense. Doing portraits was great but it started to not feel like the right thing. Or it’s just not the kind of work that I’m drawn to. I’m pretty lazy I guess, so, if I don’t care, I can’t make myself do it.

[A Honey Panna Cotta arrives.]
I don’t think I’ve ever had Panna Cotta [dipping into the white, lightly glazed desert.] That’s good, really good.

~Alisa Gould-Simon

First photo by Hedi Slimane for Vanity Fair
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Accessory Road-Test: Billykirk No. 90 Belt Pouch
Skateboarding Legend Rodney Smith Revisits His Roots

Skateboard-industry pioneer Rodney Smith, has come full circle. From starting Shut Skates in 1986, to spearheading Zoo York in 1993 (and subsequently selling it to Marc Ecko Enterprises), he’s now back where he started, breathing new life into Shut Skates, which he co-owns with Eli Morgan Gessner, Adam Schatz and Greg Chappman. With only five employees working out of the basement of their soon-to-open retail store on Orchard Street in Manhattan’s Lower East Side, Shut Skates’ team is the epitome of the term 'grass-roots.' No fancy offices for these folks -- try three rooms, a space heater and dreams of becoming the next big thing to hit East Coast skateboarding.

Considering Smith’s ever-present need to stay organized throughout 20-years of sweat and labor for skateboarding’s sake, it’s little surprise that he credits his Billykirk leather pack with keeping him in check. Billykirk is the brainchild of two LA-based (by way of Minnesota) leather artisans who built their company, and its covet-worthy accessories, from the ground up. Over a few shots of tequila (key to staying warm in his cold office), Smith took the time to tell psychoPEDIA about Shut’s new plans and divulge details on why his trusty leather pack works so well. In his own words:

When did it all begin?
The Shut evolution actually started in 1986, but my ex-partner, Bruno Musso and I, didn’t start taking what we were doing seriously until there was a demand for what we were making. That was inwards around 1988 to 1989. Prior to that we were a traveling skate team, fresh out of school, having fun….

Even though you were young and having fun, you’ve maintained a strong business ethic; starting with Shut, then Zoo York and now with Shut Skates again….
Yeah, I was always the den mother for the kids. Our persona gave off the feeling that we were a little tougher and rougher. We set out to be this group of individuals that was basically a support group, who didn’t have such stable homes and to help them. Many of the soon to be pro-skaters for Shut and Zoo York didn’t have a lot of direction with skateboarding and we helped them.

When you sold Zoo York you made a killing from Marc Ecko and could’ve said, “I’m done.” Why didn’t you?
I wasn’t finished yet. Nothing can turn my mind off of skateboarding. I immediately knew I needed to keep the momentum going when I first ended Shut to then start Zoo York, because if I didn’t, someone was going to eat my lunch. Skateboarding was just wide open and someone would’ve just taken it. And then with Zoo York, with the selling of that brand, the end came for all of us at the point when we started having talks and conversations with the Ecko family. Zoo York took on a new face at that point. We knew we’d entertain that idea of selling the company if we had gotten it to a certain level. [But] personally, my big drive is to help out anyone that has anything to do with it on the East Coast. There are too many lost souls and lost skaters that don’t have a lot of direction, and that’s what drove me to stick with it.

So, throughout the years, what’s an item that’s been tried and true to help you stay organized?
Well, the more recent item I’ve purchased is this Billykirk pack. I’m sort of a pack rat myself and I’m not very good at keeping receipts, so this pack helps me out a lot.

What do you like about it?
It’s a very simple design made out of leather. You can perfectly fit a blackberry phone inside, with room for business cards and other things. It’s attached to my belt, because it has a loop where you can run your belt through the loop. Super simple. Back in the day, during the 80’s, Bruno Musso was Mr. Fanny Pack guy. He’d always have his fanny pack and stuff shit inside. People are making fun of me now too and saying, ‘what the hell is that thing?’

Where did you find it?
I didn’t buy it from an official Billykirk dealer; I actually bought it off this guy on the street in Williamsburg! Some dude on the street selling random stuff!

No way!
Yup, I saw it and said, ‘I’ll take it!’ Sold it to me for $10 bucks!

After all you’ve been through, you really are going back to basics and back to your original punk rock and grass roots mantra!
You know, I feel really good about it too and just the thought of going back to where I belong is very exciting to me…

~Jessica McMenamin

Get Yours:
Billykirk is sold in both the US and Japan at stores like Takashimaya, Ron Herman, Aloha Rag, and Barneys.

First photo by Alan Ying
Third photo by Stoked Mentoring via Flickr
Last photo by Gregg Chapman
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Accessory Road-Test: Comme des Garcons Wallet
The Ones' Paul Alexander on Marc & Moneybags

One part electro to two parts disco, The Ones’ 80s-infused sound is as uniquely infectious as its gregarious members—Paul Alexander, JoJo Americo and Nashom Wooden. And all this from a trio of downtown club icons whose high-fashion connections go back to high school (Alexander befriended Marc Jacobs back when the two were 15).

From stints as shop boys at stylist Patricia Field’s namesake boutique (back when its roots were planted in the East Village), to topping UK charts with club-friendly hits like “Flawless” and “Superstar,” it’s been quite a ride for The Ones. And, considering their long-awaited self-titled debut album finally drops this spring—and boasts production by A Touch of Class, the NYC team responsible for lending its own Midas touch to both Scissor Sisters and The Gossip—it’s only the beginning. psychoPEDIA called Alexander on a chilly weekday morning to discuss the band’s upcoming star-studded video shoot, as well as the new accessory he can’t live without. In his own words:

How are you?
I’m good. Just watching The View. Whoopi Goldberg has made that show really good.

I heard that you have quite a beloved recent purchase?
Yes, my new favorite thing is my Comme des Garcons wallet. It’s a replacement for my Prada wallet. I lost two other [Prada wallets] from drunken nights out. My third one was perfect; it was red. It got worn and torn and the zipper was damaged. When I took it to Prada they wouldn’t replace the zipper and they didn’t sell it anymore. So I found this new Comme des Garcons wallet. I took it on default but I’m so happy with it. I can’t believe I haven’t used it all along.

What do you love most about it?
It’s so big you can use it as a folder. You can organize your bills and your receipts in it. It’s big enough and small enough. It is the ultimate wallet. It’s embossed in their design—a circle and a star or snowflake. And that it’s red.

Why red?
Red is meant to be a good luck color for money. So that was mandatory—it had to be red and Prada’s didn’t come in red anymore.

For status-conscious people, what does the wallet symbolize?
What I like about it is that it’s kind of like the Bottega Veneta theory—your own initials are enough. Anyone who knows Comme des Garcons will recognize it, and, if you don’t know it, it doesn’t scream at you. An educated consumer will know what it is. It’s got that kind of privileged club thing where if you’re cool enough to know, you’ll know what I’m doing when I pull it out; but, if you don’t, it won’t scream at you like a Louis Vuitton does.

Does that relate to your personality as well?
Yes, because I am showy like that. But I don’t want to be in your face about it. If you’re up on it you’ll be like, ‘wow, that’s good.’ If you’re not you won’t think I’m a designer label snob, which I really am.

Is it true that The Ones met at Patricia Field?
Yes, we were all working at Patricia Field. We worked there for a long time; we got our back teeth growing up in that store—the old store on 8th Street. Then I worked at Bergdorf Goodman doing visual display. And I styled music videos and fashion. I’m all about fashion. I love luxury items.

Do you think one’s wallet represents its owner?
Yeah, to a real fashion person it’s all about the details. What a good shoe and a good wallet say is everything. They are also the places most people would overlook. Say you were to wear a Christian Lacroix dress with a Payless shoe—it diminishes it. Whereas, if you buy a Targé [Target] dress and wear it with a Christian Louboutin shoe it lifts it up. The wallet is the same idea. Those little details totally make the difference.

What do you think about Marc Jacobs’ latest campaign featuring Posh Spice [Victoria Beckham] and MIA (individually)?
That is shocking! MIA? She is not so well known, but I think she is the biggest, hottest thing at the moment. She has been for a while; she’s hitting it. I’m so happy he chose her for that. Victoria, I thought she equated everything that the luxury brand is about. She’s young; she lives the lifestyle. But I think it is celebrity obsession that’s really pushing the market. I don’t see music as much as Hollywood. I don’t think it’s going to change. At this point celebrity just comes from having enough money to buy publicity. We’re celebrating people for the fact that they bought PR. But that’s our culture at this moment, and the fact that the media is basically always Paris, Lindsay and Britney stories is proof in the pudding.

Speaking of Marc, I hear he’ll be making a cameo in your video shoot this weekend…
Yeah. It’s for our single, "When We Get Together". The idea between the director and ourselves was to have various people show the spectrum—general walks of life coming together and being one. We’re all as good as the last; everyone influences and everyone is important in this world. That’s my opinion. It’s just trying to put a nice little cap on all of that. We’ve asked the Scissor Sisters, a couple burlesque stars, a few models, because everyone loves some pretty models... Deborah Harry, Ultra Naté, Jody Watley from Shalamar. It’s just a microcosm of society.

Any idea of what kind of wallet Marc carries?
You know, I don’t know. I don’t know if it’s a Marc Jacobs or a Louis Vuitton. I don’t think he’s such a loyalist. But I know he loves Louis Vuitton, because when we were kids there was a painting in his house of The Supremes done in the Louis Vuitton pattern… I didn’t know about these things. He educated me. He was a sophisticated Upper East Side-r and I was growing up in the Bronx. He explained all that to me and that’s one thing I’ve always associated with him. So, years later for him to be designing Louis Vuitton is ironic.

What is your favorite place in NYC to pull out your wallet?
Well, there isn’t just one [laughs]. Every day I go to the Chelsea Market and I pull out the wallet and think about how happy I am that I can organize my bills. Before I used to fold money in half; now I lay all the [bills] next to each other. I learned in Japan how they deal with money—they lay the money so that all the faces are upright and facing the same direction; they’re all lined up in numerical order. And it’s a joy.

~Alisa Gould-Simon


Watch The Ones' video for "Ultra Modern Disco."

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Detox Road-Test: Reparer
Health Expert Sally Kravich on Organ Cleanses & Quick Fixes

It is at this exact point in the lunar calendar—one is fresh off New Year’s Eve indulgences and has most likely spent weeks overeating and boozing—when the body is in its most extreme state of disrepair. Most are far from looking their freshest, and, as always, the reigning-number-one New Years resolution is to hit the gym more. So, what to do?

While, for some, detoxification is a dirty word (one that signifies a lot of pain and little gain), it’s an essential part of self-repair. And it doesn’t have to be so unpleasant, which psychoPEDIA learned from natural health expert Sally Kravich, whose expertise and A-list client roster have landed her in W, Self and Vogue magazines. In fact, Kravich’s own detoxifying secret weapon even sounds quite quaint… it’s called Reparer. We spoke with Kravich post-New Years, just hours before the specialist’s bi-annual visit to the Goddess Repair Shop for some toxin release. Here, she discusses the key to detoxification success, and what to categorically avoid:

Tell me about Reparer…
It’s an organ cleanse. It reads your energy. You put your hand on a metal plate and they roll it on your stomach. It reads the frequency of where the toxins are and releases them. In addition to the hand thing, the machine also hooks onto your ears with these little plugs; they take you into a deep mediation state. And, whenever you’re doing a cleanse meditation is key.

What kind of reaction does one typically have to it?
The thing is, when you do cleanses it stimulates organs—especially the liver and gallbladder. Every organ and cell has certain cellular memories. And organs have emotions that connect with them—the liver connects with anger, the gallbladder with resentment. So, sometimes people are really weepy or angry for a day, or two, or three.

How often do you recommend using the Reparer?
With any of these things, one has to be in tune with oneself. You don’t go in every day for an organ cleanse. I go twice a year. I’ll go after New Year's, or in the spring. You can do an organ cleanse and a few days later follow it with a colonic. To me, these things help accelerate, or get you to a deeper level when you’re doing a cleanse.

What’s the most integral part of a cleanse?
The ideal way to cleanse is to come to someone like me and get on a good diet that fits into your lifestyle. If you don’t diet it can back up your system. So the first thing you want to start doing is taking a probiotic, because that helps kill all of the yeast and sugar from all of the foods and alcohol. The next thing is to swear off all flour products. Eliminate alcohol, flour, sugar and dairy. Have veggies, fruits, meat and whole grains.

What about the day directly following a lot of indulgence—i.e. a greasy-food alternative?
Go to soup. Veggie soup is the easiest thing in the world for feeling better. Soups [like Sally's Sensitive Stomach Soup] and fruit. Also, for hangovers, take probiotics and extra Vitamin C. Have some before going out partying, and before you go to sleep.

What if you’re looking for something you can do at home? Do treatments like detoxifying foot baths and foot pads actually work?
Yes. I have the Bio-Energizer Foot Spa. But there are so many. The Japanese came out with it first, and they’re all really the same thing. There isn’t any one that’s better than the other. You use it for 15 minutes to 30 minutes every other day. Some of them claim a little bit more than what they do… people are always looking for that quick fix. But, it definitely helps pull toxins. I’ll have my kids use it if they seem to be coming down with something. It’s great for release. The foot pads are good too. But you can break out in rashes if you’re really toxic when you use them. I recommend using them [typically overnight] for a maximum of two weeks, then stop for a few months.

Speaking of quick fixes, what about fad cleanses like the Master Cleanse/Lemon Cleanse?
Some people like to go on the Master Cleanse, but I don’t recommend it. If you want to do it for 2 or 3 days that’s ok, but for 10 days, you’ll start taking enamel off of your teeth. I’ve had people with $80,000 of dental damage from it. Have hot lemon and water in the morning to start. Later in the day add a lemon master cleanse. But for days on end? Nasty.

~Alisa Gould-Simon


Get Yours:
Find the Reparer, $125 for a 30-minute session, at the Goddess Repair Shop in NYC [315 West 57th Street, (212) 245-8235], and LA [3401 Pacific Ave, Suite 1B Marina Del Rey, (310) 822-1947]
For more from Kravich, check out her tome Vibrant Living
Looking for an individualized consultation with Kravich? The LA-based specialist will be in NYC seeing clients from January 8th to February 5th.
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Makeup Road-Test: Napoleon Perdis Gel Eyeliner
Neurosonic on Makeup Tricks and True Punk Rock

Less than a month ago, controversy erupted after Canadian rock band Neurosonic played NYC’s Knitting Factory. While on stage, lead singer, Jason Darr, claimed Fall Out Boy's Pete Wentz had sent him a cease and desist letter. Darr’s offense? Neurosonic’s song "So Many People" – a scathing anthem attacking talent-less photogenic pop stars – which Darr openly credits as having been inspired by Wentz’s girlfriend, Ashlee Simpson.

The storm soon settled (the cease and desist claim was revealed to be a joke), but, needless to say, it caught a number of people’s attention. Ours included. But, more interesting than the non-existent letter, was the two aforementioned male musicians’ shared love for eyeliner (or, as Wentz has been known to refer to it, guyliner).

Over the course of the last 60 weeks, Neurosonic have been touring the globe, promoting their recently released LP, Drama Queen (stops include the Family Values tour, as well as 12 countries in 36 days). All the while, they’ve been testing out the new China Doll Gel Eyeliner from the folks at Napoleon Perdis in every environment possible – from 110 degree heat in California, to subzero temperatures in Saskatchewan, Canada). We sat down with Darr and bandmate, Jacen Ekstrom, in NYC the day before the duo was slated to fly home to talk gel versus pencil, style icons and the biggest drama queen of all. In their own words:

So what do you guys have planned for your brief stay in NYC?
JD: Shopping, definitely.

Speaking of shopping, when did you first come into contact with this gel eyeliner?
JD: The last time we were in New York. It was a gift from the company. We love makeup. And, I’m nothing compared to our guitar player [Troy Healy] whose got the raccoon eyes. He gets up an hour earlier than the rest of us. It’s really cool. You really have to have a steady hand with the brush I’ve realized, but if you’ve got the steady hand you can do really nice straight lines.

And it’s a gel?
JD: Yeah. It’s definitely different. We were used to using pencils and things before, which you just dig on and rub out.

How has it worked on stage?
JE: We wear our coats on stage and we’re under the lights running around and jumping around and we sweat, we bleed. And this has been pretty good.
JD: You need this. Otherwise you look like Alice Cooper.

So you wouldn’t name Alice as a style icon?
JD: I don’t know if I have any style icons. The one thing we don’t want to do is look like everybody else. But we don’t want to feel ugly to accomplish that – we still want to feel really comfortable in what we’re wearing. The number one rule for anything in the band is it’s got to fit good. You can pretty much pull anything off if the fit is good.

Does that relate at all to your music?
JD: It’s separate. The sound definitely influences you in terms of what you think you might look like playing music like that. But we try and break away from that barrier a little bit. You get pigeon-holed. But some people are just like.

What would you call your image?
JD: Neurosonic. We’re comfortable with it. We don’t ever get out of bed and go, ‘gee do you think people are going to like this?’ Fuck that. We like it. If you’re real you’re real, if you’re not people see through it.
JE: I like the idea of not looking like your brother up there – not looking like the soundman. Some bands, you’re like, ‘which guys in the band? Oh, that’s the sound dude? He looks just like the singer.’ I like the idea of…
JD: Stardom! Rock stardom! We all grew up wanting to be fucking Motley Crue or whoever. You knew when those guys walked into a room. That’s what we want. We love that feeling.

Does the eyeliner come into play with that? Perhaps in terms of defining image?
JD: Absolutely.
JE: A little bit more for different guys. Like Troy. He’d eat that if he could. He lives for that shit. Everyone’s got their reason for it. It’s like putting on your superman coat.

Maintaining a look like that can be quite a commitment…
JD: We’re so gung ho on the whole thing that for the entire Family Values Tour it was 100 degrees or more except for two days. We played between 3:30pm and 5:00pm every day in the afternoon. And we wore these coats, we wore eyeliner, hair product, black pants. We wore it the whole set. We’d walk on stage some days you’d throw up, or get dizzy, almost pass out on stage. It’s something that we work really hard to do, and, you know, everybody else goes on after us in shorts. It’s like, give me a fucking break. We’ll show you whose punk rock.

I know you’re big on the black [Onyx], but, do you use any other color eyeliner?
JD: I put red pencil underneath my eye to make it look like I haven’t slept in a week.
JE: White [eyeliner] makes you look like you’re awake too. If you put it right around, it keeps your eyes looking a little bit bigger and you look better.

Who do you think is a bigger drama queen – Ashlee Simpson or Pete Wentz?
JD: Oh, Ashlee for sure.

What about Ashlee or her sister?
JD: I kind of feel sorry for Jessica – she’s so hot, yet all of these guys dump her. There’s got to be something wrong with a girl like that [laughs]. No, I’ve got nothing against any of them. The only thing that scares me is the Pete and Ashlee duet record... just wait and see.

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Candy Road-Test: Papabubble
Handbag Designer Jenny Yuen Satiates Her Sweet Tooth

From Hansel and Gretel’s candy house to Willy Wonka’s sweet-filled factory, candy has long been part of our childhood fantasies and fairy tales. Luckily, Papabubble – a popular Barcelona-born sweet boutique with shops in Amsterdam and Tokyo – now makes that fantasy a reality in New York's Nolita. Opened this fall, Papabubble is the newest addition to the neighborhood’s spread of trendy sweet shops (think Pinkberry, Rice to Riches, and Mariebelle), nestled next door to the area's designer boutiques.

No one seemed better suited to take a first-hand look at the shop than handbag designer Jenny Yuen, whose sunny California disposition and penchant for playful prints made her an obvious subject to try out Nolita’s newest seduction. Not to mention, Papabubble is dangerously close to the designer's apartment. Starting out in the studios of Japanese pop-artist Takashi Murakami before creating her own namesake accessory line– adored by the likes of Sarah Jessica Parker and featured in Teen Vogue, Nylon, and Marie Claire– Yuen’s bags are as crave-able as your favorite confection and could easily be the perfect arm candy. psychoPEDIA brought Yuen to the shop one snowy morning to watch the shop-head and skilled candy crafter, Fiona, make the first fresh batch of candy that day. Armed with a big black puffer and one of her namesake pink handbags, Yuen sampled some treats, confessed to a dessert addiction, and discovered her newest neighborhood haunt:

Do you have a sweet tooth?
Yes, really bad! I like chocolate, lollipops, cake – anything with sugar in it, I’d probably like.

Had you noticed the store before?
I came in here to get my friend a giant lollipop as a birthday present. But, I didn’t come in here earlier for myself, because I knew I’d be here all the time trying everything.

Are your bags inspired by your love for candy?
My spring ‘08 collection was actually inspired by candy, honey, and caramel. There's another great shop down the street where I was sampling all their exotic honeys, so we even made a honeycomb print with honey dripping down.

We try some of the hard candies from the sample jars.

Favorite flavor?
The lavender and lychee ones are really good. The lavender is really relaxing. It reminds me of those lavender eye-pillows.

What do you think about the shop?
It’s like an alchemist’s studio – sort of lab-like. It’s colorful and cute, like it could be a perfumery or something.

If you could design a candy, what would it look like?
Maybe put a high-end logo in there, or make fun of it– like the [Alex & Chloe] Chanel [“Coco is Dead”] logo that’s dripping. High-end logos dripping in candy might be kind of cool. It would be funny, because logos are everywhere.

Fiona pours out the hot sugar, swirls in the color and passion-fruit flavor, stretches the sugar mixture, then moves to crafting the large tube of hardened sugar mixture and shaping it into tree-shaped lollipops.

What are your impressions of the candy-making process?
It's very physically intensive, like a workout. And very time sensitive. If you don't start working the candy right away, it could harden and then you'd have to start over. It looks like a lot of fun, and it's so great that the candy makers are able to be creative and come up with their own candy sculpture, like Christmas tree lollipops or a candy Matterhorn Mountain.

Do you like their display?
The jars of candy remind me of when I worked at Takashi's studio and we had a huge inventory of little jars of paint colors. They were almost the exact jars and all brightly colored and meticulously labeled just like the candies. I think I even compared them once to jars of candy when I was working there!

What are you working on right now?
Fall ’08, which is very different from Spring; I was inspired by surrealists, and this place down the street called Da Vera. It’s an old antique store with old doll parts and weird artifacts— pretty dark and creepy, but very nostalgic. [This collection is] still very playful, but in a dark way— like Tim Burton and The Nightmare Before Christmas, or those weird little books like Edward, with dark humor and skinny little drawings.

Why is Nolita a great spot for Papabubble?
I think Nolita is an interesting pocket in the city. Despite all the build up in SoHo, Bowery and Lower East Side, you can still find cute little restaurants, boutiques and bars. It's great because the person working in the business most likely owns the store too. With things becoming so commercial, places like Papabubble bring that personal touch back. Each piece of candy comes with a story, like when Fiona makes the passion fruit candy and tells us it is her favorite. It makes you stop and savor the taste a little more.

Do you see common ground with the mix of shops in Nolita?
I think it all gets connected— arts, fashion, food, design, comics, graffiti artists, literature. People are becoming very nostalgic. With the precarious position the world is in today with war, global warming, diseases— people want to be reminded of a more carefree time like when you were a child and watched Saturday morning cartoons and ate candy all day.

Would you come back here to satisfy your cravings?
Yes, and I just went to the dentist and no cavities, so I am sure they will see me a lot more.

~Leann Peterson
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Denim Road-Test: Diesel
Songstress Marissa Nadler on Her First Pair of Beloved Blue Jeans

Folk-infused singer/songwriter Marissa Nadler has a knack for wearing only fancy dresses. On stage and in everyday life, feminine frocks rule her world. Despite being a New England native, and currently battling the cold weather in her hometown of Boston, Nadler has never taken to wearing jeans.

So, psychoPEDIA asked the Rhode Island School of Design (RISD) grad who gave up a future in fine art to pursue her unexpected calling of singing and songwriting if she’d be interested in giving, gasp, a pair of jeans a go. Surprisingly, Nadler jumped at the chance. After a long debate of what brand to give the denim-virgin (and, fingers crossed, future convert), we chose Diesel -- the sought-after Italian label that packs a fair amount of femme-friendly punch. Not only does Diesel have a distinct reputation with regard to style, in recent years the brand has been cultivating its affiliation with underground music. Specifically, via its collective of "independent minded organizations and professional musicians" Diesel's U Music organization has helped develop unsigned talent, and promoted of creativity in music.

Between performing sophisticated gigs in promotion of Songs III: Bird on the Water, the LP Nadler released earlier this year, and running around Beantown, Nadler took the time to try out Diesel’s Ronhar, a basic bootcut with stretch. In her own words:

Have you ever worn a pair of jeans while performing on stage?
I’ve never, ever, ever, ever performed in pants or jeans. Never in my entire life! It’s really funny though, because I actually did need a pair of jeans. I’m not the kind of girl that has tons of jeans like most girls seem to have right now. I don’t really have the kind of figure for jeans; dresses seem to suit me better.

How did the Diesel jeans we sent fit and feel?
I was really shocked that they fit me so well – like a glove! I didn’t expect them to fit at all, just because I’ve had such bad luck with pants - that’s why I wear dresses all the time. The jeans are really really soft and fit very well actually. They’re more high-waisted, which is good because I have an hourglass figure, so they’re not super-low rise. High-waisted jeans on girls with my kind of figure, I think, is more flattering. They also flare out at the bottom which I really like as well.

Can you describe the actual denim?
It’s more of a lighter color. They’re not super-dark. They have a little washed-out quality in the thighs and knees. It’s a soft denim - it feels like it was “aged” on purpose. There’s more of a distressed and vintage quality to them. I know that they’re new, but they feel like a more of a seventies cut.

Would you say the vibe of your dresses is in the same vein as these jeans?
I think you did a great job in selecting these jeans for me! I tend to definitely steer backwards to a more retro-vintage feel. All of my dresses are this gypsy style.

Is there a female artist from back then or now, whose style is influential to you?
I honestly can’t think of any present artists, but in terms of direct style, I would say I have a weak spot for Stevie Nicks during her heyday. I like all the old glammed-up, chanteuse musicians.

Are you familiar with U Music? What do you think of the fact that a fashion company is behind it?
I'm not familiar with U Music, although I think it's great that a fashion company would be interested in helping to promote unsigned talent.

U Music was founded in the UK six years ago. What are your thoughts on the UK music scene having garnered so much attention over the last few years?
The UK's music scene is definitely a strong influence on music tasted in general, because it seems willing to embrace new talent, whether or not there is a major label behind an artist. From my own experience, I know that I had my strongest audience in the UK when my career started, and have had very supportive fans in the UK from the beginning. The US seems to have become interested, but only much later. I can only hope that lots of cities and countries take the path of listening to music as it is and making up its own minds.

Back to the jeans, have you had a chance yet to wear them out on town yet and get reactions?
It’s strange that men check out women more in jeans than dresses. This has been my experience! It’s more approachable I suppose. The jeans have been very good for that, I have noticed, making me wonder if dressing down is the new black. Maybe I should wear jeans more often…

Would you ever perform in them?
I think, maybe! I just have to find the right shirt to go with them. The thing about wearing jeans is that you feel a little tougher; it gives you more of masculine edge, yet these particular jeans have a very feminine quality to them. I think it’s because of the cut of the back pockets. I’m definitely going to start wearing jeans more on an everyday basis since receiving these jeans, that’s for sure.

~Jessica McMenamin
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Bar Road-Test: The Gutter
Brooklyn's Own Japanther Laces Up at New Bar-Meets-Bowling-Alley

Our generation’s attention spans are dwindling fast. We want to be entertained and to interact -- not to merely go to the museum and look at the dinosaur bones, but to press a button and make them move. Ian Vanek and Matt Reily encourage and embrace this notion. And their traveling performance-framed sing and dance-along punk band, Japanther (formed in 2001 in this vein), has continued to astonish fans at both their punk shows and their art space performances ever since. Their latest offering, Japanther in 3D, was created with intense interaction in mind as an attempt to engage and entertain every aspect of the human brain. The performance (part of Performa and performed at PS122) combined everything Japanther had ever done in the past – installations, skating, music, dance, puppetry… suffice to say, it was a big success.

So, where better to toast that success than at a place made for entertainment: the local bowling alley? The Gutter is Brooklyn’s newest bowling alley, brought to you by the same people as Barcade and located within spitting distance of the bright lights of Williamsburg. We challenged Japanther to a game and got their views on gimmick bars, neighborhood cycles and 25-foot waves. In their own words:

What are your first impressions of the place?
IV: Bowling is definitely about style. These are gorgeous score machines, this is a stylish place, everything has been considered. It’s very kitsch. It’s definitely got the air of a themed bar, and follows the necessity for America to build themed bars. It’s because of people like us who are from the video game generation.
MR: Yeah and we grew up on gimmicky places, like Chuck E. Cheese pizza. We need to be entertained.

When did you last go bowling?
IV: I haven’t been bowling since I was 8, so I’m super excited.
MR: I used to go to Carlfield Lanes – it was free for high school students.

[Matt gets a strike on the first shot. Ian seems to be having trouble finding the right ball…]

IV: Sorry [it’s] all about color for me. Matt’s good, I’ve got to take some inspiration from Homer Simpson to get back in.

How was Japanther in 3D?
IV: It was something much more inclusive, much more realized and had much more money put into it than anything we had done before. It meant we could realize our ideas and pay our friends really well. I love making music and playing shows -- that is a high that you can’t get away from. But, as a creative person, you always want to do more – something that means something to my peer group. I think just playing concerts over and over again and getting wasted isn’t saying anything to your peer-groups. So, we try to work with Native Americans from New York State, English people, men, women, boys and girls.
MR: Yeah, we had teenagers there, kids… we wanted a show for everyone rather than just cool people who knew where the bar was. We talked about food, rituals. People were forced to think outside their normal realm of how they accept music and art.

Would you say that you were artists before musicians or vice versa?
IV: We were just art students. When we finished college there were no jobs so we both thought, ‘What should we do?’ We both wanted to travel, so we thought, ‘Let’s book some shows.’ At that point we weren’t a band so we had to write some songs. We designed a logo before we had any music.

So you formed the aesthetic before, then fit the music and everything else into that?
IV: Yeah, and that’s now something that’s coming into fruition – where we are like, ‘Whoa, it makes sense.’ That’s our style. I also have this idea (I don’t know if this is the exact figure), but humans use only 17% of their potential brainpower at any given time. Hopefully maybe we can try to elevate ours to around 20%.

How does bowling factor in to that?
IV: It definitely brings it down.

Watch the hate mail from the serious bowlers come rushing in. In fact, do you reckon we would find any here?
IV: I’m not sure. I think they would prefer the ones where it’s a long strip with loads of lanes and the alleys are in a pit. A more classic style. I’d hang out here though. I reckon this place is going to clear up.

What do you think of the bar though?
IV: It’s got a good beer selection certainly. But, they need to sell pizza and food. They always have a snack bar at bowling alleys.
MR: ...and the jerkies are 3.50!

How do you feel about all the urban development happening in Williamsburg right now?
IV: I love it. Look into the history of New York City – this was the most lively shipping area in New York until it completely died and it was filled with breweries. Then it’s a Polish neighborhood and they do heavy manufacturing of steel and rock, so they're building Manhattan and putting in those nice marble floors for everyone, and eventually marble will leak out of this neighborhood like the breweries. Meanwhile up pops a bowling alley, and roller-skating place, then the neighborhood becomes a ‘this’.

A ‘this’?
Ian: What it is now. It’s incredibly exciting and the loop will never stop.
MR: ...until a tidal wave will come and knock down the bowling and bars and condos, then it starts again.

Nice outlook.
IV: Well, yeah, we should all be prepared for Alpa anyways.

What’s Alpa?
It’s a volcano that’s going to erupt on the other side of the ocean that will cover the entire East Coast with a wall of water that is 25 meters high.

If the wave doesn’t come what do you reckon this place could have, to make it better?
MR: I think the place should be more gimmicky – they need to put one of those bobbing lamps over there.
IV: So you want animatronics lamps that say “good shot”?
MR: Yeah. I think they should push that, make it a hang out place. Bring some arcade games in here, pool, and make it actually fun.
IV: I could see them having punk shows in here too…
MR: Make it like that place in Dazed and Confused – the rec center. That was cool. Everyone wants that. More gimmicks. Dancing lights, animatronics.
IV: I think you’ve had too much beer – you’re demanding talking lamps.

~Kevin Soar
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Spa Road-Test: Okeanos
Steam Baths & Shots Fit For A Tsar

During winter there are a number of things your body will cry out for (a cashmere onesie and an endless stream of hot toddies, for starters). Constant exposure to cold temperatures can be rough, especially doing damage to one’s skin. Feeling flaky? There literally couldn’t be a better time to sweat, exfoliate and repeat.

While they may not serve steaming hot alcohol (more like vodka shots followed by caviar), Manhattan’s Okeanos Club Spa Banya has got you covered. Just this past March New York Magazine named the spot – a favorite with Russian hockey players, ballet dancers and lawyers alike – as housing the city’s best coed sauna. And, if their Russian steam baths don’t pique your interest, perhaps their Platza treatments (rigorous massage involving birch branches) will. Eager for the inside scoop, psychoPEDIA sent writer Tracy Marx to the front lines (a.k.a.: 51st Street), to report back on the gem:

Legend has it that my great, great, great, great Russian Uncle Igor would down a shot of vodka then take a bite out of the glass. Could my wimpy Americanized self be half so tough? Doubtful, but I knew I could handle a spa treatment.

Entering Okeanos on an icy November day, its promise of steamy warmth was a dream come true. As the dashing Andre [the spa’s manager] explained that I would be receiving the traditional Russian treatment known as Platza, I anticipated being enveloped in a comforting fog of warm clouds, the aches and pains melting away like popsicles in front of a fireplace. But, as Andre described sauna temperatures, well above 100 degrees, and freezing cold shower temperatures, well below -- not to mention the bundles of birch leaves with which I would be thrashed -- I became uneasy. Could I take the heat? And if not, here below street level, would anyone hear my screams?

My fears were soon appeased by the lovely young Russian woman who showed me to the locker room – "I grew up with this," she assured me. "It's so good for you. You'll feel so good later." I looked at her dewy complexion and bright eyes. Alright, I'll have me some of that, I thought. After all, so far in my life I'd been waxed, tweezed, bleached, exfoliated, Rolfed, and corseted. Why not add steamed, baked, frozen, and lashed to the list?

In the entryway to the Banya [sauna], a pitcher of water with orange slices awaited. After a refreshing drink to prepare for the coming heat, I was ready to let the games begin.

It's important to mention that Okeanos is co-ed. As I shuttled myself back and forth from the moist sauna to the dry heat room, trying to decide which was more bearable, I glimpsed a male torso somewhere in the fog. Meanwhile, the Platza Master made his preparations, dunking bundled stalks in vats of water, and appeared to be raking hot coals in what looked like a pizza oven. In retrospect I believe it had something to do with heating the oil and leaves I would be smattered and smacked with. But, since he spoke only Russian, he couldn't explain. All I knew was that sizzling sounds seemed to follow him everywhere he went.

Soon, it was time. Like a tenderized lamb being led to slaughter, I followed the Master into the dry heat room. I was instructed to lie on my stomach. My head was swaddled in a cool, wet towel, and so began what I remember as a three-part cycle of oiling, thrashing, and drenching under a cold shower. It was not entirely unpleasant. But, by round three I took on the attitude of a survivor. I will get through this. There are people back home who need me.

At the very least, I emerged from the Banya with a feeling of accomplishment. Great, great, great, great Uncle Igor would be proud. Plus, I looked pretty good.

"You look great!" my freshly massaged friend Laura said as she joined me in the lounge. Anticipating that I would feel a bit lightheaded, which I did, the young Russian woman advised me to put my feet up and said, "I'd love to bring you a vodka." I'm not a drinker, but I complied. Laura and I were then brought a feast of Russian blini with caviar and jam. As Andre said, the philosophy of Okeanos is that every 1-hour treatment should last 3 hours. The Tsars had the right idea.


First photo by Miscelena via Flickr
Third photo by David Alee for New York Magazine
Fourth photo by Natasha Singer for The New York Times
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Vodka Road-Test: Absolut 100
Apache Beat's Ilirjana Alushaj on 50 Cent, Bugsy Malone, & Doing the Charleston

In an attempt to tighten its already-taut grip over the vodka-buying American public, Swedish brand Absolut (which currently accounts for 40% of all US vodka sales) has released yet another variety of its well-known liquor. This time it’s luxury vodka aimed at those with a penchant for something classier… and more potent. Specifically, it’s of the 100-proof variety (hence its moniker: Absolut 100) and has been marketed as the perfect accessory to a 1920s-speakeasy-themed cocktail party.

Judging by Absolut’s product placement in 50 Cent's video for "Ayo Technology," and a recent promotional blowout bash in Manhattan, the company’s marketing team is hard at work. But, will all their efforts amount to anything? psychoPEDIA supplanted a smooth black bottle of the vodka in question into the hands of Ilirjana Alushaj, who not only hails from a vodka-drinking nation (the former Yugoslavia) but is also prime fodder for marketers – a hip, forward-thinking twenty-something living in Williamsburg – to find out.

After stints in Serbia, Montenegro and Australia, Alushaj made her way to NYC. She soon co-founded the online zine, The Pop Manifesto, with pal Karl Maier, formed (and fronts) the dark and brooding Apache Beat, and has since lent her vocal skills to the likes of The Rapture and The Filthy Dukes. She's also no stranger to marketing (i.e. she’s been paid by companies to use their products around her friends in order to spark word-of-mouth advertising). So, she set up shop with a few of her friends: Cameron Cook, Editor-in-Chief of Sup Magazine and Blair Carswell, DJ and face behind the blog Music For Robots. Here, after an Absolut 100-fueled weekend of shows, debauchery and illness, Alushaj gives us the full report:

So how was your weekend with Absolut 100?
Lame, I got ill. Not the vodka’s fault though, just New York weather.

Do you drink vodka often?
Yes I do. My Slavic background means I have to by default.

What about during shows?
Not really. Well, at least no more than a few before we play. I have a fear of falling off stage or something equally embarrassing.

What is your favorite alcoholic beverage?
My favorite drinks are whisky and coke as well as vodka and cranberry. Those are in my book as default good drinks.

What is your tolerance like? Is it higher than your friends thanks to your Slavic background?
I have a high tolerance. It used to be higher, but I didn't drink for ages, and sadly it is not as impressive as it once was. I am working on it though.

So, what were your friends’ impressions of the Absolut 100? Did they like the packaging?
Yeah they were pretty impressed; they thought I’d spent a load of money on them. So, I guess that means it looks expensive.

How did they like the taste, did anyone try it with a mixer?
Cameron had it with cranberry juice.

Sounds very seasonal…
Yeah, they actually thought it was smoother than the regular version, exactly like it says on the bottle. Blair preferred his straight and actually noticed the bottle from the 50 Cent video.

So you’ve seen the music video and promotional video?
Yeah. The music video was cool, but I've seen better from both 50 Cent and Timberlake. The Absolut 100 promo was ok; they used word associations, which was kinda funny. Do people still use the word 'fierce'?

Would you ever sell a song for an advertising campaign or let them place a product in one of your videos?
Never sell, but we would let them use one. I mean if it isn't a bad product, I don't see why not, right? Product placement is a harder one though. Not sure if we would be totally into that. And, when I think about it, what type of product would want to be in our video?

Do you think they did the right thing with placing Absolut 100 in 50’s video?
That will help if they want to get the 50 Cent crowd. The design would help too, making it look sleek and giving the appearance of it being more expensive and exclusive to the Cristal-drinking audience.

Absolut 100 is being promoted as having a roaring-'20s twist. Are you getting this from the drink? The bottle?
No. Yes. No.

Were you a big Bugsy Malone fan as a kid?
Who?

You’ve never seen Bugsy Malone?
No. I didn’t speak English until I was 5. I had better things to do than watch rubbish-named movies.

Do you think it's going to set a new generation of kids doing the Charleston all the way to their nearest cocktail bar?
In a word: no.

~Kevin Soar


First photo by Justin Lin
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Camera Road-Test: Yashica T4
Klaxons' Quiet One Muses on His Little-Known Second Passion

Simon Taylor Davies, guitarist in the now world-famous Klaxons, is renowned for being the quiet, more sensible one of the London-based foursome. Bred in Shakespeare’s hometown of Stratford-upon-Avon, Davies fled the mock Tudor facades and themed pubs for Nottingham to study art at the city’s namesake university. No sooner had Simon graduated, than he found himself in London playing guitar for one of England’s brightest young bands. The glare of the world’s media soon followed, snapping the weary band wherever they went (not to mention having a field day with Davies’ recent engagement to CSS' Lovefoxx).

An extremely fast ascent to fame is enough to drive anyone mad, but, for Davies, it seems to have instead turned him into a budding photographer. With his Yashica T4, Davies has built up a collection of photography – one that highlights his affection for the strange and un-worldly. Here, Davies discusses his camera of choice, his first photograph and dissolving bodies:

Why do you use the Yashica T4 over any other camera?
I started with film, then digital, then film, then came across the Yashica. It has a really nice grain. The colors seem to constitute some kind of reality. Everything seems to look “real” in some sense of the word. And, it’s a simple point-and-shoot. I have a nice digital as well, but I always enjoy the wait of film. It’s no moral nik-nak about the digital age; I just enjoy the one-hour wait.

How did you find out about this particular model?
My girlfriend got one first and I copied her. I've seen loads of people that use it after searching. My camera knowledge is word-of-mouth.

How long have you had it?
About 7 months.

How much did you pay for it?
I think about £30 on eBay, although you can pick them up for less…

If money were no object, what camera would you buy?
Probably a really nice medium-format camera.

Do you remember the first camera you owned?
It was a disposable camera, I think from a chain in Britain called Boots. I got it to document a school trip to the Isle of White when I was about 11. There was this guy in my class, he took about 50 disposable cameras with him and just took photos every second. He had some idea about stop-frame animation and making a movie. He was only 11 and probably the most next-level mind I’d ever seen. You could say he was the root of all inspirations.

What was the first picture you ever took?
It was a Polaroid of my next-door neighbor's son with a party hat on and chocolate cake. I think we were both about 5. I kept it in on my window for about 10 years and it cracked and faded along with a picture of me on my dad’s shoulders from the zoo. Both our bodies dissolved.

When you studied art at Nottingham did it open any doors leading to inspirations for your photography now?
I was primarily based in film. I’ve always preferred the kinetic. I was really into experimental films by Nam June Paik and Stan Brakhage, and mixing it with fictional documentary stuff like Mika Taanila and ripping off ideas from Ray Bradbury… historical documentaries about the future. That’s still where my mind sits, and it's a place someday to be revisited.

Was the resurgence of your art and photography a gradual thing or a sudden reaction to the things you saw on tour?
Most of the photos I take are normally viewed as being tools for something else – fragments for artworks or ideas. Although, from the second our footprints took a shuffle across the globe, I just started snapping at things that I found slightly awkward or just bizarre – prisms and shapes out of context. I just wanted to document everything like a tourist.

Your pictures and the Klaxons' own artwork contain elements of the surreal. Has this always been an interest of yours, and, if so, where does it stem from?
I suppose it just stems from finding the awkward interesting – from a young age being interested in places like Centre Parcs, and the fact that even the bins there were part of a collective theme. I suppose it’s trying to find faults with attention to detail.

~Kevin Soar


First photo by Photo Rod Le-Hiboo
All other photos by Simon Taylor-Davies with Yashica T4

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Restaurant Road-Test: Tokyo Bar
Simian Mobile Disco's James Ford Tastes Tribeca's Latest Comfort Cuisine

You may recognize James Ford as one-half of the first-rate electro act, Simian Mobile Disco (a.k.a. Perez Hilton’s’s favorite new act). Or, perhaps you’d recognize him for his work producing some of Britain’s best young bands - namely The Arctic Monkeys, Klaxons, and Mystery Jets. Regardless, the London-based artist’s name is one to know – it carries a fair amount of musical credibility, lending (dare we say) a ‘cool indie edge’ to seemingly any project it graces.

At present, Ford is in New York taking a break after completing a grueling string of CMJ dates. In November he pops to Japan to support Underworld in Tokyo. With this destination in mind, psychoPEDIA decided to take James to the recently-opened Tokyo Bar in Tribeca. Tokyo Bar prides itself on the fact that it is the only place that serves ‘new Japanese comfort food’ -- which, judging by the menu, entails Japanese versions of a selection of dishes from around the world. Easily excited by the modern anime-style interior, neon lights, and a menu including Berkshire Sausage, James sat down with us at Tokyo Bar and talked mood, food and Acid Jazz.

Welcome, James. How does this bar compare to real Tokyo?
Well I went for the first time about a month ago and it totally blew my mind, it was amazing, it was just very neon and you know Tokyo Bar looks like it's tried to touch on that with its neon lights -- but obviously real Tokyo’s on a different level.

What about the décor -- how do you like the anime feel?
Well I thought that guy there was a cock and that woman looks like she has a big strap-on. It’s all very phallic.

Mmmm, sex and Sake sounds good to me. How was CMJ for you?
CMJ was a bit shit, really, slightly boring, a bit ‘industry’, and there wasn’t anyone that good I wanted to see.

Did you see anything you liked?
I saw a band called Yeasayer who were good, a Brooklyn band. They reminded me a bit of Genesis.

Genesis?
Well more because of their African influences, ok, let's say a bit like TV on the Radio for argument's sake. A lot of nice, interesting vocals.

How was your show in the Apple store?
Really weird, it was in the middle of the day, we had to do the full thing, with the lighting rig and everything. Shoppers mooching about getting their iPods fixed, weird.

[The food arrives] For starters you ordered the Berkshire Pork Sausages. Have you ever been to Berkshire?
Where is Berkshire? In England? What towns are in Berkshire? Maidenhead maybe?

So, no then. What do you imagine Berkshire sausages to really be like?
Quite fat and crunchy sausages, a bit herby perhaps. These are basically little grilled frankfurter sausages from Frankfurt. Hot dogs with salad. I don’t mind it though. In a way Japanese people, part of the charm of it is how they get Western things slightly wrong -- and maybe that’s the case here. It’s charming. They are very nice sausages, just not Berkshire ones, a case of misinterpretation. But on another level what if these are supposed to be from the Berkshires, in America?

Didn’t think of that one. What do you think of the music in here?
Like the menu - a bit of a hodgepodge of everything. The menu has so many things from around the world but done in a Japanese interpretation, and the music kind of follows suit. Although there isn’t enough J-pop playing. I love J-Pop and Japanese classical as well, its really crazy. I don’t know what this is playing? Acid Jazz I think, the last taboo.

We have three main courses here to try: Tokyo rib-eye steak, parmesan-flavored pork loin cutlet and, your choice, the sautéed salmon steak. Are you a big seafood man?
I’m a big anything-food man really, I’m a big man.

How does the food on tour in America compare to food on tour in the UK?
The worst place to tour food wise is England. The promoters will give a bag of crisps and that’ll be it, if you’re lucky. We haven’t had a bad meal since we’ve been here.

How’s the salmon coming along?
Its pretty nice, very simple, slightly peppery, it is like they say - comfort food. It’s not meant to be a taste bud explosion; it’s meant to be comforting. Which I would say this is.

What about the steak and the pork on a comfort level?
The steak comes with some mash and sweet corn, which is comforting. I really like the steak. The pork’s ok, I’d say a little bit fatty to be picky but all the same it's good and comforting, which is the aim here. I think the mistake here is maybe to come expecting a proper Japanese meal. But here it’s simple and nice.

Is the atmosphere doing it for you?
Well, it’s hard to say, as we are the only people in here and it’s a Monday night. It’s not in a bad area, I imagine with a lot more people it would have a great atmosphere. It’s the kind of place that seems like it thrives on its liveliness, which is lacking tonight. You could probably have an amazing night in here if it was real busy on a weekend. With the lively décor and music the place shouts out ‘have a fun time.’

~Kevin Soar

Go There:
Tokyo Bar, 277 Church Street, NYC, (212) 966-2787
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Restaurant Road-Test: Myers+Chang
Bodega's Oliver Mak on Boston's Newest Pan-Asian Cuisine

Anyone who has ever stepped into Boston’s Bodega expecting to find solely soda and snacks has also stumbled onto the premier streetwear shop hidden behind a soda-machine façade. Home to some of the most exclusive releases in sneakers and streetwear brands, Bodega is the brainchild of co-owner Oliver Mak. A local Bean-town celebrity, Mak, 28, is also fondly known as DJ Gucci Vuitton to partygoers, and founder of Write to Eat, a youth-oriented graffiti artist collective intended to nurture local talent.

A Boston resident since his college days at Brandeis, we figured Mak would be the perfect judge of the latest notch on restaurateur Christopher Myers’ culinary bedpost, Myers+Chang (a newly opened, and much-buzzed-about pan-Asian restaurant in South End). With other fine dining destinations like Radius, Via Matta, and Great Bay under his belt, and having just opened his first Asian-inspired venture with fiancé and in-house chef Joanna Chang (of Flour Bakery fame), Myers, a self-proclaimed fan of Bodega, was more than happy to let Mak try out his new hot-spot. Dropping by M+C on a busy Friday night, Mak sat down with psychoPEDIA for a mouth-watering array of Asian specialties, and offered feedback by the mouthful:

What are your first impressions?
The window faces an old bus stop, and no one wants to eat looking at someone waiting for a bus. Thankfully, they put up clip art from take-out boxes [on the windows]. And they hired a couple of Asians to cook Asian food, so that was a good move. Plus, they bought art from us. The lighting fixtures are cool, and it has a warm feeling.

What qualifies you to critique food?
I can cut a thousand chicken wings in less than an hour.

Where'd you learn to do that?
My parents ran a greasy Chinese-American take-out spot in Lawrence, Massachusetts. And my godmother runs a Clover Chip factory, which is this weird potato chip that’s only in the Philippines. Her kids were kidnapped in ’98 by Muslim terrorists. It was just for money though. No worries, they’re cool.

Do you like the Tiger Tears beef strips?
I like the name a lot. When you really think about a tiger crying, it’s a really cute image. And it has a crispy powder on top that is not pop rocks… The basil’s good. It has a very good balance of flavors, and it’s well-presented.

What do you think about the music (lots of LCD Soundsystem) and the customers?
It’s a young city, so I would say they are catering to what is already here. But, yeah, old people suck. And that’s definitely something you should push: keep oldies and old stuff out of your place of business– they’ll ruin everything.

What are you working on right now?
It’s about a year and a half into the shop, and we’re pretty established as “cool dude shops” at the cutting edge of design and limited edition gear. A lot of shops like Alife, Colette, have their own brands and develop a lot of products. We already have that worked out with plans for next year, with probably the best PUMA and Reebok releases of 2008. We also have our own apparel, and we’re reissuing a box set of Kon and Amir – two DJs that compile great mega-mixes no one’s ever heard of. We’re trying to do more classic stuff, instead of something that will be out of style in two months.

Do you see yourself as an arbiter of cool?
I’ve been a nerd pretty much my whole life. I was a fat Chinese kid in New Hampshire, and I was called “chink” a lot– or the fat version of it, “chunk.” Recently I’ve been accepted as someone who’s helping to lead stuff. I’m actually a good dude - pay my bills on time. [It’s a] very odd sensation being respected, [it’s] very new to me.

Do you like the clams in black bean sauce?
It’s really hard to top this place Jumbo in Chinatown. This sauce is really soupy, but it needs to be thick. Thick like I like my ladies…

[A large-muscled, shirtless man appears through the window.]
This is why they don’t cover up our bus-stop view. So we don’t miss moments like that.
Can someone record this? There’s a man outside in overalls…nothing else. Do you think he was a construction worker that got robbed of his shirt?

You were really insistent on ordering the shrimp fried rice. Is it a staple dish for you?
Scrimps! I actually haven’t had it in a while. I think booze is my one staple, and other than that, I fluctuate between foods and fats.

And how was the Spicy Szechuan salt and pepper shrimp?
The shrimp was exemplary. Especially if you eat the shell…

Would Bodega’s clientele dine at a place like this?
We have such a wide clientele, that I would have to say yes. We have everybody from your drug dealers to your chief-of-police. It might not be "Asian enough" for our super Asian dudes, though–- my bros with gel helmets that breakdance in their customized Acuras would probably not like this place.

How does it compare to your parents’ restaurant?
There are no hookers yelling at my mom, so it’s a lot more peaceful.

What was your favorite dish out of our smorgasbord?
I would say the edamame and celery slaw had the best combination of flavors. The ribs were really delicious, and the tiger tears had a great name. Overall, the meal was very satisfying. But I think my favorite part was the guy in overalls. It was magic.

So you enjoyed your meal?
It’s not one of those heavy comfort food feelings. It’s like I could go out and run a marathon now.

-Leann Peterson


Go There:
1145 Washington St, South End, Boston, (617) 532-5300
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Concierge Road-Test: LifeBooker.com
Designer Sari Gueron De-Stresses at NYC's Thai Privilege Spa

From online reservation-making sites like OpenTable and Orbitz, to Camilla Parker Bowles' nephew Ben Elliot's uber-exclusive, super-luxury concierge service, using booking agencies is now the norm. But none has attempted to tap into the high-end, mass-market quite the way LifeBooker plans to. Having gone live just two weeks ago, after two years of developing a system that builds upon the best features of websites like Citysearch, Orbitz, Craigslist, and eBay, LifeBooker is the brainchild of 26-year-old entrepreneurs Dana Reichman and Andrew Unger. While the site currently only offers services for spa treatments, Unger and Reichman are already at work expanding LifeBooker to include fitness, tables at clubs, and pet services, in hopes that it will revolutionize the way you make appointments.

So, psychoPEDIA invited fashion designer, Sari Gueron, one on-the-go New Yorker very much in need of a little R&R, to test out the site and its services. Fresh off a flight from Paris, and just two weeks after having shown a characteristically soft, feminine and elegant Spring 08 collection in NYC (which has won fans from Sofia Coppola to Michelle Williams), Gueron logged on to the new site and booked a massage at Manhattan’s Thai Privilege Spa. Here, Gueron on the future of online scheduling and her fondness of aromatherapy massage:

Do you book any other types of services online?
At work we order lunch online. It is the future for making appointments. I’m not tech savvy, but when it comes to getting a plane ticket, I do it online rather then having someone put you on hold.

What did you think of the site?
I will use it rather than calling and having to talk someone... or having to Google and then call five different places to find out availability. [It’s also great because] you might not know about a salon near you. It’s a one-stop deal.

Why did you choose Thai Privilege?
I wanted their Aromatherapy massage. It sounded like the most healing, and Thai Spas are very relaxing. It’s also around the corner from my apartment.

How was the massage?
It’s transporting. They give you awesome ginger tea right off the bat. Make you feel welcome. They give you a choice of oils – the one I chose is infused with peppermint, one of my favorites. All the containers are beautiful. The touches are in place. All these details make it really relaxing.

What was the massage process like?
It starts with a foot scrub, which I love. The Aromatherapy massage was amazing. I told him to focus on my neck and shoulders since that’s where I hold all my tension. It’s the second message I’ve ever had in my life. I’m a stressed-out girl, so it took me a while to get into it.

Was it post-show stress?
Yes. Right after the show I went straight to Paris for the PV fabric show. I haven’t stopped in months, so it’s great to unwind. I don’t make time for it. I usually work late and can’t get a service during the day. But, maybe if there is a spa near the office... I’ll find out on LifeBooker.

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Kitchenware Road-Test: Induction Cooking Hob
Bryan Zupon on Turning Your Dorm Room Into a Four-Star Restaurant

For most college students, cooking at home typically entails a package of pasta and a pre-made sauce. That is, unless you’re Bryan Zupon, founder of Z Kitchen- an underground restaurant that the Duke senior started in his dorm room last fall. Since then, the economics and history major has earned significant attention thanks to his entrepreneurial attitude, and a cooking style that channels Daniel Boulud, as opposed to Chef Boyardee.

Zupon now holds Z Kitchen court to the tune of Miles Davis (or Broken Social Scene, or Jenny Lewis) in an apartment that he shares with two roommates, serving up alternating six-course dinners, with dishes like balsamic-infused strawberries with beets, flaky cod with shaved fennel and beef-loin strips that have been cooked sous vide for six hours. So, in hopes of getting that much closer to cooking like a top chef, we picked Zupon’s brain for advice. Here, Zupon ruminates on why the Induction Cooking Hob is the wave of the future:

What is Z Kitchen, and how did the idea come about?
It’s a private dining club where I invite people over for dinner. I first had the idea because I knew people who had done underground restaurant things elsewhere, like Studio Kitchen in Philly. And, combined with the fact that I like not only to cook cool food, but to meet cool people…

What kinds of crowds does Z Kitchen attract, and how do people contact you if they’re interested?
It’s mainly local foodies and industry people… some students. Once I got some students and they keep coming back. If they’re interested they should just contact me through the email listed on my site.

How would you describe the menu?
The menu is based on what’s seasonal and dishes that I’m experimenting with. I’ll serve relatively similar dishes to different parties, but they’re never quite the same as I’m always tweaking them. I also work with the diners to try and reflect their preferences.

How many people can you seat?
Six.

If you could invite five people, dead or alive, to a dinner party, who would you choose?
[Pause]… um… Grant Achatz, Anthony Bourdain, Conor Oberst, Ayn Rand, and Audrey Hepburn.

When was the foodie side in you first born? Are your parents in the food industry?
No. My dad is in pharmaceuticals and my mom works with imports and exports. As a kid I ate a lot Japanese cuisine – my mom is Japanese. By 12 and 13 I started really liking to eat, I liked to try new things and had the opportunity to eat at a lot of restaurants. I also like the hospitality industry in general.

Do most girls find the fact that you you’re a young guy who can cook endearing?
To a certain extent… I’m a little too weird [laughs]. In general, people are intimidated. But I have cooked a lot of meals for girls, and for my girlfriend, and they really like that.

Tell me about your Induction Cooking Hob, something you said you would recommend for those on a limited budget working with a limited space…
I’ve had mine for about a year. I figure that most people in NYC have kitchens that are worse than mine, and mine sucks. The concept of induction is based on magnets – magnets turn on, exciting the metal in the pan. It’s extremely safe, precise, and more efficient from an energy perspective. When you’re cooking with flame or coil it puts out a lot of excess heat. This way it’s more direct. You place a think paper towel on top of the hob and put a pan on top. It’s great for tabletops, fondue type things. On the more expensive versions you can be really precise and dial exact temperatures. It’s also just a good conversation piece.

What is the cost range like?
They can cost anywhere from $80 to several hundred dollars.

And what brand do you have?
I have a Sunpentown. I bought it off ebay, where you can get a restaurant quality one that normally costs $500 or $600, for $150.

We were also talking earlier about your most favorite recent purchase and you mentioned the chef Grant Achatz’s Alinea book. What is it exactly?
There is not all that much out there right now on it. It’s the first modern minded cookbook, and the first to have an online component [Alinea Mosaic]. It’ll all relate to what happens in the restaurant. So, at once it will be a coffee table book and a website that’s entirely practical and from which you can learn so much. I already pre-ordered my copy even though I don’t know where I’m going to be next summer. I had to have it sent to my house in New Jersey.

Do have a favorite for the Top Chef final?
Hung, definitely Hung. I’ve been a fan of his ever since they announced the task list.

Would you ever consider trying out?
I actually considered doing it this season, but I was too young by a couple months. The talent level is so high right now though so I’m glad I didn’t. I wouldn’t want to go up against Hung.

What are three essentials every aspiring cook should have?
A good knife, good pans – not expensive, you can get good ones at restaurant supply shops that are more than sufficient – and large white plates. They’ll make your food look infinitely better.

~Alisa Gould-Simon
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Herbal Road-Test: Flower Power
Chef Colombe Jacobsen Finds Radiance, Vibrance and More

Looking the picture of perfect health (think milky-skinned Swiss maid hiking through the Alps), actress/chef Colombe Jacobsen may not be the New Yorker most in need of an herbal blend to aid an overworked adrenal or suffering immune system. Yet, the moment Jacobsen, who has appeared in such films as Mighty Ducks 2 and 3, Rookie of the Year, and Moonlight Mile, met Lata Kennedy, an herbalist and owner of the East Village shop Flower Power, it was as if their two minds spoke the same language.

Both Jacobsen and Kennedy are all too familiar with health-driven endeavors like scouring gardens and farmers markets for the freshest hibiscus, the latter of which Jacobsen made into an excellent tea the day we stopped by her Lower East Side apartment. Considering Jacobsen is a graduate of New York's Natural Gourmet, and was one of the ten finalists in Food Network's hit, The Next Food Network Star, her innovation with regard to food is far from surprising. "Cleansing, but still delicious," Jacobsen divulges of her technique - one which has proved integral to her work as a private chef, as well as her involvement with Harvest Time, a food education program she teaches to 3rd, 4th and 5th graders at the Children's Store Front School in Harlem.

psychoPEDIA tagged along during Jacobsen's recent visit to Kennedy's herbal outpost in order to learn as much as possible from the two health and flavor mavens. Here, the two discuss sweating it out with herbs, and the best blends for the "cuddly season."

Colombe: What is the most frequent request for herbs?
Lata: Most people come in with physical ailments. We never recommend, but say what we would do personally.

Colombe: During this time of year, when the seasons are changing and summer goes into fall, I feel my immune system trying to balance out. Is this common?
Lata: Yes, it's true with most season changes, especially the winter. Traditionally speaking, people cuddle more. So, I think before we go into the fall it's a good time to do a fast or cleanse. I don't normally use the word cleanse because we're not dirty. But, to give your body a break. Fall, for me, is more about going out. Winter is when we are hibernating. I think most people should expend more energy now. Since it's getting cooler, they can take herbs to warm their body and flush out their immune system, and get ready for the big chill and the big cuddle.

Colombe: Do people get more colds during the change of season?
Lata: When seasonal changes occur people have more allergies. People start noticing that after the summer they need to make some food changes. Like, now we need to eat more harvesting food. But, after the winter begins, we will be eating nothing fresh.

Colombe: What herbs do you recommend to build the immune system for the season ahead?
Lata: I would do a lot of bitters - dandelion and burdock - things to get your digestion going, so you're assimilating more. And, I definitely suggest people take probiotics. It's really important all year long, and especially right now. I also do a fruit fast - something not too drastic. Something that will help your body chill out so that you're much more fortified and are building up your defenses.

Colombe: I've done a bunch of puncha karmas to balance out digestion and the doshas [Ed note: Doshas is a term that, when translated from Sanskrit, means 'humours,' or elemental forces, of which there are three that exist in the body].
Lata: Do you believe that your doshas change?

Colombe: I'm not sure, but I believe the balance of your doshas changes. And, that's the whole focus of the puncha karma, because in the changing of the season your whole system can become upset...
Lata: And all the excitement. I love the seasons changing because it motivates us. Emotionally, we get really excited and stressed out. You definitely get stressed out during the change of the season. The sun is waining. Our psyches are affected by that. Our hair growth is affected. So, energetically we are affected too... until we get used to it and something new comes along.

Colombe: What other herbs or teas do you recommend for the fall and winter months?
Lata: As we go into the cold part of fall I drink mulling cider. It's a warming herb. Cinnamon and orange peel, Cardamon, nut-meg. Chai is great for the winter - the blend we sell has cloves. It's such a fall smell. It just makes you hungry [she opens a jar for Colombe to smell].

Colombe: Wow, that is amazing. How, specifically, does this affect our system in the winter?
Lata: It stimulates the circulation and warms you up. When it gets cold fall, not brrrr winter, but cold fall, my favorite thing to drink is ginger, lemon and cayenne pepper. I love it. But, depending on your doshas and body, everything is good for all seasons. In general, go with the seasons. When it's getting cold, do warming herbs, when it's getting warm, do cooling herbs.

Colombe: What is the best blend to fortify the system this time of year?
Lata: You can certainly fortify with herbal teas. In the fall I would do a cleansing blend. We have one for the seasonal change called radiance. I wouldn't do it all the time, but when the seasons change. It's got burdock, barberry, clever. People only do this to purge. I would suggest not eating complicated foods while doing it, because it stimulates all your cleaning mechanisms. You pee a lot. Sweat, salivate...

Colombe: I find that as a cook it's important for me to give my digestion a break. You find yourself not ever resting your system - eating little bits and pieces, but you're always full because you're surrounded by food all the time. Will this give my digestion a break?
Lata: With the radiance blend you are getting fortified and you're resting the system. I would not do it all the time because it's too stimulating. And, eat as simply as possible. Drink it room temperature 3 to 5 times a day. It's bitter, but it's got to be bitter because it's stimulating. We have a blend called vibrance. It's got all the vitamins and minerals you need that will go straight into your blood stream. You can take it 24/7. In the end when you drink it for a while the accumulative effect is just wonderful!

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Beauty Road-Test: Shu Uemura Mink Eyelashes
Laura Albert Test Drives the Best Butterfly Kissers Money Can Buy

For months, seemingly nothing can top the beauty industry’s topic du jour – augmenting eyelashes. Be it via extensions, transplants or creams, women all over the world are doing it in droves. But, while options may have at times seemed limited, the beauty mavens at Shu Uemura are now reminding us that it can be much more exciting. Specifically, we’re talking about the Mink - the Rolls-Royce of fake eyelashes (that is, save for Madonna’s $1,000-a-pop pair). Here, psychoPEDIA’s own Laura Albert takes hers out for a spin. In her own words:

"Kiss me! Kiss me! I need it now!" my son demands. "Right here!" He points to his cheek. I pucker up and lean over his bed. "NO!" He whips his head away.
"NOT WITH YOUR LIPS!" he sighs. Yeah, chickens have more lips than me. "I want Rudy's!"
"RUDY!" I yodel. Rudy comes jogging in. "What's up, sweets?"
"We need a bed time kiss."
"MMMMAW!" He smooches my ear loudly.
"No ,not me, him." I point to my son in bed.
"Nope, he's not the kiss I want." I lean over my son's bed, baffled. "I thought you said wanted Rudy kisses honey?"
"I do!"
"OK." Rudy swings down and kisses his forehead. "Nite T."
"NO! I want…" He reaches over to me and almost pokes out my eyeballs with his fingers.
"Mink Butterfly!" He says.
I turn to Rudy and we both look vaguely horrified, but then the disco light bulb always grooving above Rudy's head rotates on. "Your Butterflies!"
"What?"
He pokes me in the eyes. "Of course. D'uh!" I smack my head.
Mr. Rudy Rivera – hair stylist of Hair of The GODS, the San Francisco salon that make other shops look like old-time barbershops – had whipped them out of his beauty satchel. Rudy was making me presentable like Eliza Doolittle, for the opening of San Francisco's newest roller coaster – The Soupcons Express! Everyone couldn't wait to ride the coaster and then vomit.
It was unofficially billed as the "bulimic express." Food was going to be first, conveniently. No need to worry about snake-like bulges. The seats on the coaster have special belly gates that camouflage and press in. They are constructed specially by Spanx. You leave the coaster; you purge in a pleasant historic nod to our old buddies the Roman's – then partake of gluttony and ride again!
"You need lips and you need Shu Uemura Mink lashes!" The room's lights kind of lowered when Rudy unveiled them.
"Oh lemme see?" my son said. He has never shown any interest in anything not plug-in-able before. Rudy displayed them proudly. Even vegan-boy roommate leaned over to catch a glimpse.
"Stand back everyone!" Rudy rolled up his cowboy shirtsleeves and got to work. My eyes were shut so I can't really tell you what he did. I just heard "oooh's" and "ahhh's" and felt my eyes getting magical. (Maybe that was the glue.)
Rudy did a final swoop with Shu's G-spotted eyelash curler. "I had some girls use this thing…" I whisper conspiratorially. "Oh, do not tell me!" Rudy squinted.
"Well look how it's shaped - there is a reason it is so popular with the little ladies. It ain’t just about the lashes!"
I lean over my son and let the wisps of my Shu Uemura lashes butterfly kiss his soft cheek.
"OH OH OH!" He giggles.
"I told you," I tell Rudy after T finally gets enough eyelash make out and passes out. "His book is the one to wait for!"
We hit the shag crimson carpet that leads to the Soupcons Express. But the paparazzi fall in love with me. An Italian with five cameras around his neck growls into my ear, "Honey you are the best lens cleaner around!" I wink some more on his photo lens. "You should see how these lashes smooch!"

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Restaurant Road-Test: S'MAC
Austin's Oh No! Oh My! Visit Manhattan's Mac 'n' Cheese Mecca

While one would assume the owners of an all-mac 'n’ cheese establishment would be Southern-bred, soul-food-loving-folk, the owners behind East Village eatery, S'MAC, are anything but. Husband and wife founders, Sarita and Caesar Ekya, are mechanical and electronic engineer transplants from New Haven, CT, whose entrepreneurial aspirations were inspired by none other than the Peanut Butter Co. (i.e. do one thing, and do it well). Their only variations on the American classic occur with regard to supplemental ingredients (dishes include the All-American, Cajun, Goat Cheese, and Wasabi) and size – patrons can order a Nosh (small), Major Munch (medium), or Mongo (large). Drenched in a kitschy orange and yellow aesthetic, the restaurant is all about its “Macs.”

“I feel like I’m in a big bowl of mac 'n’ cheese,” declares Joel Calvin from indie band Oh No! Oh My! upon entering S’MAC. Considering Oh No! Oh My!’s southern roots, we figured them prime test subjects for a place specializing in comfort food. Having just released the EP Between the Devil and the Sea (Dimmak Records), and currently touring with Au Revoir Simone, the band's pretty busy. But, just before the foursome’s back-to-back shows - at Brooklyn's SoundFix Recordsand Manhattan’s Mercury Lounge, we sat down with them as they dug in. In their own words:

Have you ever been to a place like S’MAC?
Joel – No, and it was AMAZING!!!!!!
Greg- I’ve never even heard of a place like that, though I assume in New York, there’d be a place like that, or even in Los Angeles.

Is there any place you’ve been down south that’d be comparable to S’MAC?
Joel - No, unless you went into your kitchen and made a shitload of macaroni and cheese and put it in a huge pot and just ate the whole thing!

What did guys order?
Greg – All American with Four Cheese and Roasted Tomatoes.
Daniel – All American with Double Hot Dogs.
Joel – Four Cheese.

Do you like the samples?
Joel - Yeah! They gave us Buffalo Chicken, Masala (which is filled with Indian spices) and Wasabi.
Greg - I was skeptical so I got the regular mac 'n’ cheese. But, now that they brought out the tasting samplings, I think all of them are delicious. When I come back, I’ll probably get the Buffalo Chicken.
Joel – Don’t be afraid to try something crazy.

Oh… hi Tim. Tim is joining us now…
Tim - I just woke up from a food coma!

What did you order?
Tim - I had the Four Cheese with Hot Dogs. It’s totally the way to go. I’d say fuck yeah to it! Yet, it’s more of a meal you eat on Sunday afternoon around 1pm when you’re hung-over as hell and then go back to sleep and eat the rest at 5pm.
Daniel - You shouldn’t eat this when you’re just about to play a concert, like we are doing tonight!

How would you describe the presentation of the food…
Greg - It is an orgasmic concoction of molten cheese.
Daniel – It’s like a Volcano of cheese. It is served in cast iron skillets with wooden plates. It was interesting for me because I usually make mac n’ cheese with Cheez Whiz on the stove and it was baked with real cheese. I’m used to the smooth, silky texture and this was really grainy cheese coating the macaroni. I’m not sure I dug it, just because of the way I was brought up with mac n’ cheese.
Tim – I dug it though and my constructive criticism is that they should franchise this place!
Daniel – Also, another constructive criticism is to say to any patron coming into the restaurant is that you should only order the small because there’s so much mac n’ cheese served in the medium order alone that some will end up going to waste. A medium could serve two people.

Would you come back again while you’re in town performing next time?
Tim, Daniel, Greg and Joel - Hell yeah!

~Jessica McMenamin

Fifth photo courtesy of Roboppy
Seventh photo courtesy of Shmajet
Eighth photo courtesy of Euphemisms
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Denim Road Test: Loomstate
Artist Kerry Skarbakka Puts Ultra-Green Blue Jeans through The Ringer

Kerry Skarbakka, the globetrotting artist/photographer/daredevil and recent Pittsburgh transplant by way of Brooklyn, has flung himself off of nearly every terrifying surface you can imagine in the name of his artistic philosophy. And, the 37-year-old is far from slowing down: he has a slew of future projects in the works – some for Art Basel Miami and a commissioned large-scale video piece for the Seattle City Lights Elevator Project, to be completed next spring.

Considering the busy, dauntless artist perpetually sports a pair of jeans in his work, psychoPEDIA figured him a perfect person to take one of our favorite local denim brands, Loomstate, for a spin. Here, Skarbakka straps himself in and gives us the low-down on a pair of Loomstates’ latest – all-organic, vegetable-dyed indigo Genus jeans.

So, where have you worn your new Loomstates?
The first place was for a portfolio review at the Carnegie Museum of Art where I put my work in front of a curator for the possibility of showing. I wore them out to dinner for my 37th birthday, to a great Belgian restaurant, Point Brugge. I also wore them to my submission class and wrestled with a guy to see how well they stretched.

How do they feel and fit?
Before I wore them out, I took them in the shower with shampoo and stretched them, then dried them out in the sun like the instructions tell you. They’re a little tighter than I expected, but are somewhere between tight and loose. They look pretty nice. It was kind of hard getting my legs up close to my body and around a guy’s neck, but I managed!

What's with all of the wrestling?
I'm part of the Pittsburgh Fight Club. It’s what you would probably refer to as a UFC. It’s a club that trains people to fight professionally, combining martial arts, jujitsu, and other fighting techniques so you have a full arsenal at your disposal. I got involved after years of studying martial arts, and I’ve always been a sucker for the fights.

You seem like a thrill-seeker. Have you always been an adventurous person, or did it evolve alongside your art?
I’ve always sought out adventure, and whether I’m a tough guy or not is not the point. Largely, I’m intrigued with being the subject of my own work. It’s experiential as well as a thread of liking the danger, but also not wanting to die. I’m not the Jackass crew! A huge part of my work is the physicality. As I get older, I see time taking its toll, but the focus is still on a young, physical body and what that means. It ties in with the whole inability to control things.

Your work is very focused on this idea of balance and control; can you talk more about the philosophy behind it?
The heavy philosophical rants on my website are for a certain type of public. I don’t go around philosophizing! It’s about existential angst– our inability to control most of the situations we’re involved in day-to-day. We’re constantly having to deal with life – physically, mentally, emotionally – and battling with our balance. Which way is it going to shift, and how are we going to keep ourselves stable in these moments? Lots of double-sided questions like that.

Where did you get the inspiration to do projects of that nature?
I grew up Pentecostal in the deep South and was afraid to go to bed every night because of whatever may or may not happen when you die – so, I’ve always been dealing with the aspect of death. Especially after September 11, everything changed. Here I was in art school wondering ‘What am I doing?’ I started seeking out these scenarios where your balance is challenged. Just the work of falling has so many connotations. It led me to create work that was more powerful and extremely current.

And the physicality of it all?
I was in pretty good shape – knew how to rock climb and studied martial arts. I started staging a few of these things: falling off trees, figuring out what I could handle, what I couldn’t.

What is the most daring project you ever envisioned or participated in?
Some of the more delicate falling work has been pretty tough on me, and the underwater work. But, the most daring thing is probably the Fight Club project I’m involved in now, because it’s putting myself in a state to get beat up or the other way around.

Back to the jeans. What have you been pairing them with for the different occasions?
I’ve only been wearing t-shirts with them. Tight, fitted t-shirts.

I noticed you wear jeans in your work quite often. Is there a particular reason for that?
The reason for that is because I want to be an ‘every person.’ If I’m all decked out and don’t look normal, it doesn’t translate to the average person. We all like our jeans and t-shirts.

Knowing that your pair are organic and vegetable-dyed, how do you feel about wearing “ethical” clothing?
It means a lot. I’m a physical, health-minded type person. I’ve wanted to change everything to organic cotton, though it’s more expensive. But having one pair of good jeans to wear out, you’re not harming the environment or yourself. I became more environmentally conscious living in Washington State, so these were perfect for me.

Will you use them for future projects?
They’ll probably be part of this video sequence for a public works project in the Seattle City Lights Elevator Project I was commissioned to do on the 28th floor of the Seattle Municipal Tower. I’m doing a five-screen HD video extravaganza, to create one large moving image across the whole thing. It will be a flight of fantasy. I’m calling it “The 5th element,” where the 6th is the viewer/consciousness that brings their element to the piece. I’ll be flipping around in the sky, water, moving in and out of each element.

Also, I’m staging a fight project – a cross between an organized melee and a full on gang war. But they’re perfect, because I always need things to wear!

~Leann Peterson

First and second photos by Kerry Skarbakka.
Fourth and Fifth photos, Skarbakka pictured with Chad Kenderline.
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Denim Road Test: J Brand
Stylist Alastair McKimm Tries on L.A.-Denim Maven’s Latest

Believe it or not, menswear is having a moment. What perhaps began back during Hedi Slimane’s days at Dior Homme has extended into the mainstream market (think Thom Browne for Brooks Brothers). Now, not only do most men in cities worldwide adhere to Slimane’s sleek style, all the ladies want it too. Like the aforementioned Brit-born Browne, who’s crossing over via Black Fleece, menswear designers like Scott Sternberg of Band of Outsiders and Swaim Hutson and Christopher Ryan of Obedient Sons are likewise launching women’s lines to complement their exceptionally successful men’s ones. Thus, the number of girlfriends stealing their boyfriends’ garb is multiplying, leaving fashion rags attributing it to the Annie Hall effect.

Considering that the ultimate menswear staple is a perfect pair of five-pocket jeans, we thought it prime time to test a new one. So, we enlisted the help of fashion editor Alastair McKimm, whose take on men’s fashion has landed him work with many leading names in the business: i-D, Numero, and Vogue Italia. And, after coming face-to-face with LA-denim royalty J Brand's Mick jean in the matte black Jet wash, we knew McKimm had found his match. Here, we caught up the perennial jetsetter just before he hits the upcoming NY Fashion Week, to find out the skinny on the jeans, some men's style dos and don'ts:

What were your first impressions of the J Brand jeans?
I liked the fit, but I got the length tailored to fit me. I love the matte black wash; it’s very similar to my favorite jeans.

Where was the first place you wore them?
Shooting an ad campaign for [Karl] Lagerfeld and on vacation in Canada.

How would you style them for day vs. night?
T-shirt/Shirt.

What kind of guy do you see sporting this particular style of J. Brand jeans?
Someone stylish and easy-going.

What are the top trends and essentials for guys this fall?
Biker.

Any up-and-coming men’s designers you’re particularly excited about?
Number (N)ine [the rock-inspired Japanese menswear label from Takahiro Miyashita, who recently opened an NYC outpost in Tribeca] and Robert Geller [a German designer who spent time at both Marc Jacobs and Cloak before launching his elegant namesake women’s line two years ago].

What are you most looking forward to this upcoming NY Fashion Week?
Working with the designers that I consult for, Richard Chai [a Korean menswear designer who launched his line three years ago after honing his skills at Marc Jacobs and TSE] and Ohne Titel [a luxury women’s line founded last year by Flora Gill and Alexa Adams – Parsons grads who, following Adams’ stint at Helmut Lang, worked together for Karl Lagerfeld before launching their own brand].

What part of NY Fashion Week are you least looking forward to?
Not getting enough sleep.

Any no-no’s you always adhere to with regard to men’s fashion?
Shorts and knee socks.

What is your most coveted styling secret?
Wear what you like.

~Alisa Gould-Simon

Get Yours: For your own J Brand Mick jeans, $180, check J Brand online www.jbrandjeans.com for a retailer near you.
Looking to perfect your “Biker” style before the first leaves fall? We recommend looking to the classics – i.e. Marlon Brando in The Wild One and Peter Fonda and Dennis Hopper in Easy Rider.

Second photo styled by Alastair McKimm.
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Stress-Relief Road-Test: emWave
Ben Marciano’s All-Natural Anxiety Antidote

To hear Benedetto (Ben) Marciano gloss over his high-profile client list is more than enough to catch your attention. For starters, it includes Sharon Stone, Kevin Spacey, Richard Meier and Sting. So, while the world of stress relief and holistic healing, for some, comes with substantial skepticism in tow, Marciano’s reputation remains solid.

While the masseuse/mental trainer has long helped clients relieve stress and tension through deep-massage techniques (often adding an inch or more to their height as a result of spinal readjustments), Marciano doesn’t solely rely on his hands and mind. Recently, he’s added another technique to his repertoire – one he’s termed a revolutionary tool in stress management. The wonder-working machine, otherwise known as HeartMath’s emWave Stress Relief System, is now part of Marciano’s everyday practice.

The machine, which allows users to view their own heart rate and subsequently control it via breathing techniques, “transforms stress and anxiety into vibrant energy.” Here, Marciano discusses his firsthand experience with the machine and why achieving enlightenment is easier than you think:

Where are you based, and how would you describe your work?
I live in Albuquerque, but most of my work is done in Beverly Hills with the rich and famous. I have a program I’ve been working on for 25 years. I’ll spend two to four hours working on somebody -- pressing into the muscle, trying to stretch and loosen it for increased ease of movement. I’ll do it somewhat deeply, which allows for better neuromuscular connections, going for an overall effect and better posture. Holding tension weakens the body, and the tension we hold is often deeply ingrained because of physical trauma, or general emotional stress.

How common is this deeply-held tension?
It’s very common; the effect is noticeable. Deep tension folds the body like an accordion. Deep muscles within the body, if too tight, can literally shorten your body.

How does the emWave work?
The emWave can use either a finger sensor, or, if you prefer, an optional ear-clip for hands-free operation, to monitor your heart rate. It looks at Heart Rate Variability (HRV), which is also known as heart dancing. Now we know that a healthy heart dances; it’s flexible; it can meet the changes of our environment. I just put emWave on my laptop. It’s very profound work. When you dial yourself in, you feel wonderful. The program runs for 20 minutes but even doing it for five can help. When you’re stressed out, your HRV looks jagged. When you settle down and breathe calmly it equals inhalation and exhalation, turning the HRV into a smooth, coherent wave. Essentially, there are two states: sympathetic, which is like the gas in a car, the fight-or-flight -- and then there is the parasympathetic, which is like the brakes. When the harmony of the two is achieved it equals coherence.

How does it feel?
It’s not exactly a state of relaxation; it’s an energized, calm state. You could go to sleep or do a complex task without difficulty. It’s very easy; it just takes a little concentration. I gave it to one woman who made it work for about one minute; her psychiatrist called me a week later asking where she could get it for her daughter.

What’s a typical reaction to one’s first emWave session?
The first session can be very profound. For some, they’ve had deep tension their whole lives. I just did a session with a man who was 87 years old and he called his wife immediately after and told her that he felt 25 pounds lighter. Now, he wants to see me every week for the rest of his life.

In your experience, how does the stress of a 20-something college student compare with that of a major Hollywood celebrity?
That’s a really good question... In the words of a friend of mine who’s a writer in Hollywood, ‘Celebrities are typically quite well-rewarded,’ whereas, for a student, they may not have that. I think that the most stressful time is from the ages of 12 to 25, which is of course the age of most students. They have much more stress than most people; it’s related to the control they have over their lives. They’re still not totally independent of their parents or, as my nephew likes to call them, pay-rents. You continuously have people telling you what to do, so you get drunk.

Have you found young people to be open to treatments like the emWave?
A lot of young people are looking to do biofeedback more and more. Some people aren’t particularly interested in going deeper, but most young people are interested in spirituality, even if it’s physiologically spiritual. When you’re not in a coherent state you’re not working efficiently. It’s emotional management for young people, who are often feeling stress, emotion they don’t have to. I’ve gotten people off their anti-depressants with this heart rhythm software.

Why do you think this kind of approach to stress management has been so successful?
It’s not the long way; we live in an age of shortcuts… good shortcuts, especially for young people. It’s a way for them to settle themselves down. At one point you had to live in a monastery, never have sex and be vegetarian. This is the fast-food approach; one of my sessions is the equivalent to three months of intensive yoga. Getting into the controls of the bio-computer, simple biofeedback, in many ways, is superior to meditation.

What is the one piece of advice you give all of your clients?
To put it in a nutshell, and though I hate to quote a cliché, simply: don’t worry, be happy. Try your best to have a good conversation with yourself. Monitor that conversation and begin cleaning up that conversation. If you do, your life will go better.

The emWave’s website emphasizes balancing the heart and brain. In your opinion, which is stronger?
That’s a very good question. One of the simplest Daoist exercises is to smile at the world. It’s one simple thing: the feeling of having compassion for everyone. For me, it’s the connection between the heart and the mind. The question is whether they are working together. The power of the two working in combination is the best.

~Alisa Gould-Simon

Get Yours:
Marciano charges $150 a session in Albuquerque, and $200 a session in LA. Sessions are not charged according to the clock, so, there is no time limit (though averages are at least 2-3 hours). Separate Biofeedback sessions are $20 (approximately 1/2 hour long). To contact him, email benmarciano@msn.com
In addition to the emWave, ($275 from amazon.com, Marciano recommends Wild Divine ($159.99 from amazon.com), a stress-relief system that works more like a game and has been endorsed by Deepak Chopra. For portable stress relief, Marciano recommends the handheld Stress Eraser ($299).

First photo by Miles Aldridge
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Restaurant Road-Test: Bonbon
Comedian Donnell Rawlings Digs In

You probably know him as Ashy Larry, but long before Donnell Rawlings came up with his famous alter ego he was accustomed to developing many. His career as an actor has included memorable roles on HBO’s The Wire and an appearance in Spiderman 2, while his most famous work remains working as a stand up comedian and writer/performer on Dave Chappelle’s Chappelle’s Show.

But, when we learned that, prior to appearing on stage/screen/TV/radio, Rawlings was a soldier, serving in the U.S. army in South Korea, we realized he’d be a perfect subject to taste the latest foodie craze: Korean BBQ chicken. From food blogs, to epicurean rags, the evidence is in. Be it in Flushing, or downtown Tribeca, gourmands city-wide are seeking out the best Korean take on an American classic. So, we took Rawlings to Chambers Street’s Bonbon, a restaurant that claims to be “redefining chicken.” His thoughts follow.

What's your first impression?
Well, any time somebody is bold enough to say ‘redefining fried chicken,’ you got to give it a shot. And then the whole décor… it really looks like a good safe place to eat fried chicken.

Yeah, they didn’t go too fancy in here.
Sometimes less is more. They didn’t go too crazy with the decoration, but it just looks like I've got to give it a try.

So this place has a lot to live up to right now?
Yeah, I mean, I don’t see any feathers plucked anywhere.
[We picked up our piping hot wings.]
We didn’t get the cole slaw?

Do they have cole slaw?
Yeah man. We need cole slaw.

I think they just gave the bun and the rice. How’s the rice? Let’s start with that.
It’s good, nice and sticky. [Pointing at the chicken] Is it different flavors?

Yeah, they have sweet, they have spicy, and they have mild. We got a little bit of everything. Is it spicy enough for you?
Yeah, but it isn’t like… I had chicken in Jamaica; it’s not Jamaica spicy, it’s sweet. It’s not too uncomfortably hot.

Would you come back here again?
Yeah, the best thing about fried chicken is when the crust is not too thick. I like it crispy like this.

How do you think this bun compares to a typical American fried chicken biscuit?
It’s not buttery enough. I know they’re trying to go healthy, but when you got a biscuit it’s got to be buttery. It’s not flaky.

I like those little boneless strips - they’re really good.
Oh. Damn, this one is spicy. Whoa.

Yeah, they put some garlic in there too.
The only other thing that’s different is that they don’t use a lot of flour, they don’t use a ton of batter, it looks like it’s just like, like…

Flash-fried?
Yeah, that’s the new white word to make you feel more comfortable. Flash fried is the new thing that doesn’t make it seem so fried. I can tell they do is that they do an egg base and they dip the chicken in it without the flour, that’s the only difference.

Do you ever take a date to Koreatown to impress her with your language skills?
Oh yeah, that’s the best. I start speaking Korean, ordering in Korean, and then get a couple of drinks. The best thing about the bulgogi tents when we were over there was that they had this drink called soju. It’s like their moonshine and the tricky part about it was they had no like government regulation of it, so you could catch a bad soju experience and be drunk for a couple days. The tradition was to take a shot and eat some food, take a shot, eat some food...

Was there a lot of organized crime?
There was a black market. That was the hot shit. I mean I used to like Newports, so I got them any way I could get them. I had a hustle over there where I used to get American beer from the base, and they didn’t have a lot of American beer, so, I had a little scam going on. Like one beer could be worth four packs of cigarettes and shit. It was cool.

How does Bonbon compare to the fried chicken you had in Korea?
Its not as authentic, I can identify every part of this chicken. Over there it’s like Jeopardy of chicken, you might have neck, gills, feet, whatever.

And you prefer that? You like a little gizzard mixed in?
Yeah, I’m adventurous.

~Hunter Walker

Go There:
Looking for a Korean fried chicken eatery beyond the borough of Manhattan? Try Flushing favorites: KyoChon, 156-50 Northern Boulevard, (718) 939-3002, and Kyedong, 150-54 Northern Boulevard, (718) 939-8300

Third photo by Scratchandsniff via Flickr
Fourth and Eighth photo by Slice via Flickr
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Denim Road-Test: Found
Actress & Fashion Scion Jennifer Missoni Likes ‘Em High

Had Italian actress Jennifer Missoni lived in another era, she most assuredly would have been an ingénue à la Monica Viti or Catherine Deneuve. She might have played muse to Fellini, or the recently deceased master, Michaelangelo Antonioni, each having preferred their actresses both mysterious and wide-eyed.

Missoni, 22, moved to New York at age 19, after attending The American School in Switzerland, not far from Tradate - the small town in Italy where she grew up. Since moving to Manhattan, Missoni has occupied her time studying with famed acting teacher Susan Baxton; and has landed guest roles on both Law and Order and, most recently, the new Glenn Close series, Damages, where she played her first hitman.

Considering seemingly every young actress is fashion-obsessed (especially one with fashion literally flowing through her veins - Missoni's father, Luca, is creative director of the family's namesake fashion house's menswear line), we gave the stunning blond her pick of jeans to road test. Her request: the Juliette jean, a high-waisted skinny from Steven Alan's new find, Found (a new brand from designers Lana Cretz, Sara Watson and Steve Zeitzoff, who honed their skills at Hudson Jeans, AG Adriano Goldschmied and Chip & Pepper, respectively). Post-denim drop-off, we sat down at Grey Dog Coffee to discuss the jeans, acting in NYC, last summer’s trip on the trans-Siberian railway, and her dream of playing Marilyn Monroe. In her own words:

What have you been working on this summer?
I just shot a role as a hitman for Damages. It was really fun.

Did you get to kill anyone?
I didn’t because I get killed first. Which actually really hurts. They squid you with a wire going down your leg; the blood goes off so fast that it hurts. But it’s really cool. They control which way they want the blood to go off. It’s funny because I was practicing my death scene but I don’t have to fake it. It was so painful. I only had to do one take!

So what do you think of the Found jeans?
I don’t have any jeans that color. Because they’re dark you can wear them with heels, dress them up. I like that they’re long and narrow. I’m not over skinny jeans. They make your legs look 5 miles long.

Where did you wear them last night?
To the theatre with my boyfriend. We went to see an off-Broadway play called Angry Young Women in Low Rise Jeans with High Class Issues. One of my best friends is in it. It’s hysterical.

How perfect. What did you wear them with?
I wore them with ankle boots and a loose, flowy, bright top.

Do you wear a lot of Missoni?
Not really. I wear jeans everyday. With flats or sneakers. I’m very casual. My hair is always back. I like wearing it if I’m going to a party and I want to wear a pretty dress. But I was never fascinated by all that. Something is not right if your life revolves around fashion. How much do you really need it in the end anyway?

Do you ever dress the part for an audition?
No. If I were auditioning for a stripper I would wear a pair of trashy shoes and a trashy thong (underneath my clothes) - for me. But I wouldn’t dress like a stripper. That shows you’re green.

Are you a fan of Italian film?
Yes, very much. My boyfriend turned me on to all that. He’s a filmmaker. It’s hard to see those films in the theatre. We brought like 800 DVDs back from Tokyo. They were 30 cents each. We took a trip last summer on the trans-Siberian railway. It was incredible. I had never been to Asia. So inspiring. You see so many different cultures. You go from Moscow to Siberia to Mongolia, Shanghai, then to Tokyo. We had amazing dinners sitting in our cabin eating cups of noodles, looking at the sunset.

Last time we met you were talking about wanting to play Marilyn Monroe. What fascinates you about her?
Her innocence and vulnerability… she went through so much and had to put on this mask, as we all do in life. It came from a real place.

Perhaps you can play her one-day…
That would be my biggest dream come true.

~Sara Costello

Get Yours:
The Juliette Jean, $198, and other Found denim styles are available exlusively at Steven Alan in NYC's Tribeca and Nolita.
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Restaurant Road-Test: EKS
The Hysterics Chill Out With the Latest Addition to the Fro-Yo Craze

What better place to take a teenage rock band rock on a hot, sweaty August day than a frozen yogurt joint? This is what we figured when faced with a foursome of hungry rockers, a.k.a. Hysterics, and the recently-opened Williamsburg yogurt spot, EKS. (Note: the latter’s debut outpost marks the latest addition in the war on Pinkberry, as well as an answer to many Brooklynites’ prayers for a (non-Tasti D-Lite) Bedford-adjacent frozen dessert spot.)

While inside the subterranean interior (heavy on Murakami-meets-McGinness red graphics upon white walls) waiting for the band, we spoke with one of EKS’ owners, Edong “Neo” Kim. “What’s with the name?” we asked Kim, who is also an artist, filmmaker and recent MFA graduate of CalArts. He explained it’s meant to be pronounced like the letter ‘X,’ adding, “it’s a personal thing; I was a bad kid when I was a teenager and nobody trusted me, but now it’s different. I graduated with my Masters last year and I’m trying to be nice. I wanted to show them a bad guy can make something. We are not in competition with Pinkberry. We are selling yogurt. They are not yogurt [Pinkberry uses a powder-base for its frozen dessert]. All our ingredients are organic, including the secret one.”

As Kim gets deep into a discussion about live cultures, which they grow in the back, guitarist Charlie Klarsfeld, bassist Josh Barocas, drummer Geoff Turbeville and lead singer Oliver Ignatius arrive. “There are like 3 cop cars outside this place... I was about to light up and all these cop cars pulled up,” said the teenager. (Perhaps the Hysterics have more in common with Kim than just yogurt.) We tasted, and asked more:

How did you guys meet?
Oliver: For a short time we all went to Saint Ann’s together. Then two of us got kicked out.

You’ve had some big success for a band that is still in high school. How did that happen?
Charlie: Yeah, there was an MTV featurette on us when we where in 10th grade and 9th grade called “You Hear It First.” [Tasting the yogurt] Wow. This shit is good. My mom [photographer Pamela Hansen] would really like it. It tastes healthy and she really enjoys healthy snacks.
Oliver: We didn’t have a manager, which is good. It gave us time to write some songs and get really good. You don’t want to go out there as a kid band. You’ll get fucked. They’ll exploit you. But now we are grown men!
Jeff: We are grown young men... to some extent.
Charlie: We could have taken more advantage of that.

So, what do you think of the yogurt?
Jeff: it’s all right. It could get a little boring. I like the really sweet stuff.
Charlie: That’s the best part about it. That it’s not too sweet. It’s awesome. And I kinda feel like I’m in a Nintendo video game. This place is very Asian pop-cultural. Yoshi could pop out at any moment.
Oliver: A little bug just crawled into mine.

Eww! Really?
Oliver: No! There are no bugs in this establishment.

How’s the summer going for you guys so far?
Charlie: We just did the last show for the summer last night because I’m going away for a month to do some community service. I had a crisis and thought I didn’t get into any colleges, but I did. I’m going to Marymount Manhattan College. But we’ll be back playing in the fall. Check out the site. Actually we don’t know how to update that yet. But Jeff’s mom is going to start running it.

Would you say the band is a family-run operation?
Oliver: Less and less so, but they still drive us to every show. These guys need to get their drivers licenses and Charlie needs to stop getting drunk and driving his cars into trees. Charlie: Our parents spend a lot of time doing boring shit for us. And I don’t want them too. Oliver: I like driving with Josh’s dad after he’s had a few drinks.

Do any of you have jobs for the summer?
Josh: I make tye-dye T-shirts with my girlfriend and sell them at the flea market in Woodstock. My grandma has a house there.

Any final words on the yogurt?
Oliver: I like that they use live cultures. Good for keeping yeast infections away. Charlie: I still don’t know what that is.

Ok. Thanks guys.
Jeff: Thank you for the ice cream. Oliver: You mean thank you for the yogurt.

~Sara Costello

Go There:
EKS, 488 Driggs, Brooklyn, (718) 599-1706, 11am-11pm, 7 days a week
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Beauty Road-Test: Jan Marini Eyelash Conditioner
Dr. Alesia Saboeiro Puts the Derma Diva’s Lash-Growing Liquid to the Test

There are very few ways to drastically enhance one's appearance without going under the knife, committing to six months of rigorous athletic training, or spending a hefty wad of your hard-earned green stuff. Until now…

Currently, a slew of medical advancements are lessening the necessity of invasive procedures. And that includes augmenting everything from your head to your toes – eyelashes included. While it may be hard to believe, there’s a new way to take your peepers to a new level of pretty. And, it doesn’t invovlve needles, glues, serious drugs or stimulants. Essentially, you can now purchase astonishingly long eyelashes over the counter, for the relatively reasonable price of $160.

Sound like a scam? We thought so too until we sat down with Dr. Alesia Saboeiro, a leading female plastic surgeon and resident physician at the Tribeca Plastic Surgery in NYC. Despite having access to the leading body enhancement surgeries in the world, and being one of the premier fat grafting (a procedure that uses patient’s own fat to augment their breasts, rear-end, or elsewhere) specialists in the US, Dr. Saboeiro swears by the recently-released eyelash conditioner from beauty maven Jan Marini (whose nickname is in fact "the derma diva"). In her own words:

How exactly does the eyelash conditioner work? And, why call it a conditioner if it actually causes eyelash growth?
It goes on clear like eyeliner at the base of the upper lashes. It has a compound that enables eyelashes to reach their full growth potential. It makes lashes more resilient so they don’t break off as easily, allowing them to grow much longer. Technically they can’t say that it grows lashes because then it would be a drug, regulated by the FDA. So, it’s just called an eyelash conditioner.

Has the cream been around a long time?
I’ve been using it for around 4-6 weeks; it’s probably been out for about a year but people are just starting to talk about it.

How was it discovered?
The formulation was derived from medication for glaucoma patients. This medication was causing patients to have unbelievably long eyelashes. So, they unformulated the medication as an oil-based compound and reformulated it as a water-based compound.

What was your first experience with Jan Marini’s product?
I actually discovered it at a seminar that was completely unrelated to the product. The woman teaching the seminar had these unbelievably long, lush lashes. I asked her if they were real, and she said they were. She said that she’d been using this product and that she couldn’t keep it on the shelves.

You also mentioned a hair conditioner that works with the same properties…
Yes, there’s also shampoo - it’s the same idea as when they saw the glaucoma patients – they were pouring bottles of the medicine into their shampoo bottles and it would have the same effect. It’s a lesser concentration, so you just use it as a conditioner. It’s the same principle. You’re not going to take someone who is bald and give them a full head of hair, but you are going to improve someone whose hair is beginning to thin and fall out.

Are the effects actually that dramatic?
It’s pretty dramatic. We’ve noticed the changes here at the office. We’ve carried it for the last six weeks. The change is pretty significant. Everyone who has used it has said good things.

What is the application process like?
They recommend using it once a day, but I’ve been using it twice a day. They also recommend that you only put it on your upper lashes. I’ve been putting it on both my upper and lower lashes and eyebrows, and in areas where they were sparse it’s improving. I don’t have to pencil in as much.

Is there a point at which the product’s effects begin to wear off? Or does the increased growth continue indefinitely?
That’s a good question. Some people say they’ve grown so much, they had to stop using it or cut their lashes. If anything people have had to stop use for a little while.

Do you see the product gaining in popularity?
The formulation was proprietary for a while, now it’s becoming more known.

Are people actually coming in often with specific eyelash complaints?
People don’t come in and specifically ask for it, but they may as it gains more attention. People pay a lot of concern to their eyelashes and with all the mascara commercials - we now have a way to make that happen. Who doesn’t want long, lush lashes? There are some doctors who do eyelash transplants and that’s much more invasive and costly. This just takes a little more time. You have to wait, but if you can be patient the results speak for themselves.

Any quick fixes you can recommend?
I think in general Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid treatments are really good, especially for skin that’s not really aged. They can help in the 20s, 30s, and 40s, helping give more radiant skin. Topical retinoids are always good – like a Retin-A derivative; those are good products to use for everybody. I think in general the trend is getting away from really invasive procedures and going more towards less invasive quick fixes. Things like fillers [such as Radiesse, which is used to smooth bumpy noses, lift cheek bones and fill in eye bags, was just approved by the FDA this year and effects last a full 12 months, as opposed to Botox or Restylin]. Things that don’t require a lot of down time… the shift is definitely going more towards that and less in the direction of big, more traditional cosmetic plastic surgery procedures.

Get Yours:
Jan Marini Eyelash Conditioner, $160, and Hair Conditioner, $150, is available at Tribeca Plastic Surgery, (212) 571-5200, or, for a list of retailers nationwide, check out janmarini.com.
Looking for a more immediate eyelash augmentation? Try Eyelash Extensions from Tribeca’s Euphoria Spa ($300) or Koreatown’s Ebenezer Beauty, ($90), 10 W. 32nd Street, (212) 947-5503.
Want your locks to be as long and strong as your lashes? Check out Biotin , an over-the-counter beauty secret.
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Denim Road Test: Siwy
Monsters Are Waiting’s Annalee Fery on NYC’s Hottest Femme-Fronted Denim Line

Smokey seductress Annalee Fery has a keen eye for style. So we figured the chic dresser and lead singer of Los Angeles rockers, Monsters Are Waiting, would be up for trying out New York City denim brand, Siwy.

Unbeknownst to Monsters Are Waiting, Michelle Siwy, owner and designer of her namesake line, happens to be a huge fan. When Siwy found out Fery would be in New York City playing at Webster Hall, she jumped at the chance to style out one of her favorite songstresses. She picked two looks for Fery: the Hannah, rail-thin ankle-length jeans; and a shorts-suspenders ensemble dutifully named the Brigitte.

Last year, Monsters Are Waiting released their first full-length album, Fascination, on Retone. Since its release, one of their tracks, “Time,” was featured on the WB’s show One Tree Hill. Not bad, for a band in its infancy.

Currently on tour across the United States, we finally caught up with Fery on her bus after a performance in Minneapolis, Minnesota. In her own words, here’s what she had to say about Siwy, and more:

How much longer do you have on tour?
We have until the end of the month: Denver, Seattle, Portland, San Francisco, San Diego…

Are you going into the studio when you get back? Writing any new material?
Yes, hopefully when we get back home to Los Angeles, we can be in the studio the whole month of August, so we can get our next record done. We were thinking of putting out an EP with what we have right now, but we think we may record some more songs and make it full-length.

Have there been any horrific “clothing-dramas” while touring and with the boys?
Not really -- I can usually figure out anything. BUT, one thing that did happen while we were on our way to perform in San Francisco -- the guys thought I was on the bus and they left me at a rest stop for about 45 minutes! They didn’t realize I wasn't on the bus and I didn’t have a cell phone or anything. I was really scared for a minute, but they found me eventually and I’m OK now! I could even see them going away and tried to get their attention.

So what do you think of the Hannah jeans from Siwy?
I wore them on one of our days off for the whole day. The stretch was really nice because we're traveling around on-and-off the bus. They weren’t too restricting, which was great, being that we were moving around a lot.

If you could pair these jeans with something, what would you choose?
Probably a really cute shirt, with a belt and a pair of flats - something a bit more casual.

What did you think of the wash of the denim?
I liked it a lot actually! I really, really do! I also liked the little designs on the back pockets. They have this embroidery thing to it. They’re not flat; they’re kind of squishy, which is really cute. They even have these little holes in the knees, and they’re much better that way.

Have you gotten a chance to wear the Brigitte jumper too?
I think I’m trying ‘em out when we play in Denver. I’m going to get some tights or fishnets and put them under the shorts to wear on stage.

It turns out Michelle Siwy is a big Monsters Are Waiting fan and was even expecting your recent show in New York might help inspire her next collection. How does this make you feel?
It feels great! It’s nice to know that it touches people. You write things you feel. If we like how something we write sounds, it feels good to know other people feel it too. It’s fun; it doesn’t need to be so serious. For me, once things start to get a little too serious, it starts to get boring. To stay lighthearted and have a good time is the most important thing to us.

~Jessica McMenamin
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Candle Road Test: Kiki de Montparnasse
Chris Nieratko Lights It Up

Writer Chris Nieratko, author of the recently released Vice Books-published tome, Skinema ,is no stranger to controversy. Not only is the latter all about NA-rating worthy alcohol and drug-induced antics that actually occurred throughout his life, the New Jersey-based newlywed is also a former Jackass alum perhaps best remembered for gorging hard-boiled eggs until he threw up.

So, when faced with a Kiki de Montparnasse Massage Candle, whose wax turns to oil after burning, we figured Nieratko, who has seen it all go down in the bedroom (and beyond) wouldn’t play coy. Having just celebrated his one-year wedding anniversary, we assumed he could handle an extra-special night with his wife and then give a full report. Like his book, the road-test is full of the kind of stuff you only hear about, but never believed a person really did. In his own words:

So, how did Vice approach you to do the book?
Years prior, I had gone to London to sell this book to Bizarre Magazine, because the majority of the reviews are from that magazine and not from Vice. Unfortunately, what they offered wasn’t the kind of deal and contract I was looking for. About a year ago, my good friend, Gavin McInnes [one of the founders of Vice] made me aware that they signed a book deal with MTV Books, not knowing that I had this book already on ice. So I said, ‘Well, that’s funny, I already have your first book right here.’ It was as simple as that. It happened right before my wedding in July 2006. I literately signed the contracts as I was exiting the church after my wedding!

Wow. Okay, onto the candle, what did you think when you first opened it?
I thought it was caviar at first, because it comes in this interesting packaging. I wish my wife opened it, because she knew what it was supposed to be and knew it was coming. I have a bad memory, so right after I was told about doing the interview, I immediately forgot. I have lots of things to remember, like my upcoming book tour, my two skateboard shops, knocking my wife up, taking out the garbage, getting drunk and changing my socks…. occasionally.

What about a shower?
No time! Sometimes though, when I do remember to take out the trash, my wife power-washes me with the hose!

So… the candle…
Ok, I was actually annoyed because I had to open the box and my wife didn’t get to do it. It’s in fancy packing and it’s got words in a different language or something.

I think it’s French…
Well, whatever. I’m not down with that French scene; I’m not Jerry Lewis. So anyway, I opened it and there’s a little spoon inside and I thought, 'Oh, it’s sorbet!' And so… I tried some… and well it was disgusting and not sorbet.

When did you realize it was indeed a candle?
I saw a wick as I was chewing and it has a distinct aroma that’s very hard to get out of your mouth. Seriously, I was just spitting it. I was putting seltzer and beer into my mouth; just trying to get the taste out! Right off the bat, the candle was on my shit list. Also, the day it arrived, I was cleaning up after the one-year anniversary party of my wife and me. Which didn’t help matters, because we have these tiki-torches with citronella oil in them. Unfortunately, my nephews, when they were over for the party, tipped the tiki-torches all over. So, I had to clean them up. As I was doing so, I was getting citronella oil all over my hands. Sooooooo, when my I finally did light the fancy candle, my hands went up in a blaze! It wasn’t like Michael Jackson with a crazy, crazy blaze or something, but my hands were hot!

No! I don’t believe you!
I’m dead serious! I was charred in the face. My shirt got a hole in it. This company owes me one T-shirt; white, Fruit of the Loom, in size large, by the way.

When did you and your wife actually get to use it?
When we did attempt to use it on ourselves, we were on our leather couch applying the massage oil.

Well…what happened?
She slipped off me and then fell to the ground. Honestly, we did try to use the candle. It’s a very dangerous product. It should be kept away from people who are childish. Children probably could use this item more so than me.

What did the actual oil/wax combination feel like?
I can’t imagine that it felt like when the Romans burned people in oil or something. It wasn’t waxy and it wasn’t burning – it was just really, really, really slick.

I wish you had photos while you were lighting the candle.
Well, it would’ve been difficult to do so since I was burning and on fire! I know this story seems absolutely ridiculous, but if you spent five minutes with my wife, you’d know that this is a daily occurrence in my household where I find new and retarded ways to do things incorrectly.

Any advice for someone using this product for the first time?
First off, I’d suggest wearing flame-resistant outfits; even layer up with ‘em. I’m sure that’s not a sexy look but, you know, safety first. Function over fashion. Check with your local fire inspector before using. I think it’s safest to do it outdoors, and away from trees.

Who would’ve thought…
I feel like I let you down…

No, no…well done, Chris.
Thanks, I try.

~Jessica McMenamin
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Spa Road Test: NYC to VT and Back Again
Time Rituals, Back-cials And More From The Northeast’s Best Men’s Spas

I’m a guy who loves spa treatments and completely unafraid to admit it. What I do hate, however, are “guys’ only” spas, with manly-man-sounding spa menus, tough-guy scrubs, and kitschy marketing schemes. Instead, I’ll happily take something that’s five stars and gender-neutral. Thus, in light of the fact that the season of baring flesh has arrived, and that a good men’s spa isn’t easy to find, here are four of my favorites, all located in the Northeast:

Twin Farms Evening Primrose Body Treatment ($300)
If you’re a luxury-minded traveler who’s considering Vermont (but think it only has B & B’s to offer), make a beeline for Barnard’s Twin Farms. Not only is it luxurious, it’s one of North America’s finest lodgings – a private resort, starting at well over $1,000 a night, with individually-decorated cabins stuffed with museum-quality art, huge acreage filled various sporting activities, an on-premises chef who determines your personal menu a month prior to your arrival – and, naturally, a great spa. On a recent visit I gave the Evening Primrose Body Treatment (which uses all products from “Out of the Woods,” a treatment line developed uniquely for Twin Farms) a try. Guys, don’t be scared by the flowery title: this tripartite treatment could be equally enjoyed by men or women. First, Kathy, my spa therapist, did a full-body sea-salt scrub. After a shower break (in an ultra-luxurious, rainwater-style color-therapy shower, which changed hues every few seconds), I got back on the table. Kathy rubbed rich, warmed evening primrose cream, with slow, relaxing massage movements, all over my very dry body. She then wrapped me in light cotton gauze, allowing the cream to sink in before giving me a scalp and foot massage. Bu the end I felt truly deep-moisturized – and the resort surroundings and unhurried vibe made it feel like a true retreat.
www.twinfarms.com

Townhouse Spa Relaxation Massage ($120)
Despite it’s large size, this multi-level spa in midtown Manhattan feels like a private oasis. That’s because it’s broken down into sections, including a men’s floor. The one-hour-long “relaxation massage” is perfect for guys, because it concentrates on, you guessed it, relaxation by way of soothing sore muscles and stimulating pulse points. James, my massage therapist, was results-oriented; he asked if the pressure was OK, I said he could go a little harder, so he got up on the table and stood on my back - holding onto stirrups overhead to get just the right pressure. While odd, his feet took the knots out of my back. He also incorporated a bit of foot reflexology into the massage. By the end I was so relaxed, I laid there for a full five minutes before changing back into my robe.
www.townhousespa.com

Spa at the Mandarin Oriental’s ‘Taste of Traditions / Time Ritual ($430)
The Spa at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in New York is the city’s most luxurious, period. Located on the 35th floor of the Time Warner Center (off the hotel’s lobby), the feeling here is at once natural and sumptuous, with loads of bamboo and natural stone anchoring the elegant decor, and a hushed, serene atmosphere (including a Tea Lounge). One of the best massages is the “Time Ritual.” A truly globally-inspired experience, it alternates massage techniques from India, Arabia, the Orient and the Mediterranean – custom-tailored to your needs depending on what you like, and what you’re looking to get out of the treatment (i.e., relaxation, invigoration, etc). I combined all four for an experience called “Taste of Traditions” – and was duly impressed. I especially liked the brisk, brushing motions of the Arabian massage, sort of like sand blowing through a desert; and I loved the more targeted, deeply pulse-point-stimulating invigoration of the Asian technique. With the initial discussion about your own needs and objectives, and inhalation of various aromatherapy oils (the ones you like are incorporated into the treatment), you can instantly tell that this treatment is going to be not only special, but tailor-made. It’s also truly unisex – guys will love it.
www.mandarinoriental.com

Richel D’Ambra Spa Back-cial ($100) If you’re ever in the city of brotherly love, check out this spa, located in the Ritz-Carlton Philadelphia. The hotel is stately and grand, but the spa (on the third floor) has a relaxed, cocoon-like feel, with dusky tones, soft candles glowing, and plenty of quiet. The owner, Richel D’Ambra, is a Philly native and a gracious host. She believes in organic products and imparts to her staff that spa treatments are to provide psychological and holistic wellness benefits, as well as short-term physical benefits. That was evident in my “back-cial” treatment, which is designed to rejuvenate the skin’s appearance on an oft-ignored body part – the back. My therapist Gabe gave me a thorough scrub using fragrant, natural products from ultra-high-end Italian skincare line “Comfort Zone;” he then moisturized my back thoroughly, and spent the second half of the time on massage. I felt not only relaxed, but aesthetically improved as well. Gabe, like the rest of D’Ambra’s staff, was also highly knowledgeable of general wellness solutions. He tipped me off to the health benefits of wolfberry juice, and, when my treatment was over, he was waiting there with a little cup of the juice for me to chug down. Pampering from the inside out.
www.richeldambra.com

~Stephen Milioti

First photo by Walter Chin
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Denim Road-Test: Era of Chaos
High-Waisted Jeans & Rock-Star Dreams

The verdict is in: this season it’s all about the high-waist. Consult any fashion pub – be it print or Web – and the evidence is clear. ‘70s fashion is in; thong-baring waistlines might as well be dead and buried (and, in our opinion, hopefully never to be resurrected again). But, while rib-grazing waistlines have graced the gams of countless fashion icons in the past (Jane Birkin being one of the most notable), we’re not so sure the look flatters every figure.

Thus, when we first caught sight of the various Era of Chaos high-waisted styles (of which Amber Valletta, Mena Suvari and Mary J. Blige are already fans) adorning the window of 5th Avenue’s LF boutique, we found ourselves confronted with the age-old dilemma of body-type-compatibility. While our gut instinct made us want to climb the Empire State Building and cry, ‘We found it! The perfect jean!’ we knew not every woman would be convinced. So, we enlisted the help of our favorite fashionable femmes, Fashionista.com’s editor extraordinaire, Faran Krentcil, and respective intern, Anna Fielding Griggs, as well as our own in-house news editor, Alisa Gould-Simon and contributor Sara Costello, went en masse to LF’s Soho shop, and tried every Era of Chaos high-waisted style under the sun. The uncensored consensus:

Faran Krentcil, 5’6”, size 4
Anna Fielding Griggs, 5’7”, size 2
Alisa Gould-Simon, 5’4”, size 4
Sara Costello, 5’8”, size 6

On the high-waisted shorts in black ($168)…
FK: I hate them. I feel like a cow, or like I should be milking a cow [note: she is outfitted in a billowing white cotton tank and store-provided yellow patent-leather wedges, which she later traded for her own flip-flops, a pairing she much preferred]. They are really comfortable… but I’d never wear any of this. It’s harder for short girls to pull off. I have a waist and boobs. I’m a size 4, but this style just cuts everything off. I feel like I’m about to have a child in Poland where all they eat is potatoes. I would sooner die.
SC: I like these. They’re perfect with just the shirt and flats I wore here.
FK: I probably don’t hate them as much as I’m saying. I just felt like you needed a dissenting opinion.

On the Corseted Skinny Leg Jean in Magnolia ($196)…
AFG: I think I may have to get these just because they’re a 25 [she typically wears a 27]. They look much cooler than I expected.
S: I like these! I would totally buy them.
AGS: They’re great. I’m loving the Lycra [doing a high-kick]. I prefer the ones without the white stitching though; it’s a cleaner look.

On the Suspender Corset Waist Shortalls in Magnolia ($166)…
SC: I so don’t want to come out [peeking out from behind the dressing-room door]. They’re too short for me, for my day-to-day life... I would wear them at the beach. But they’re not city shorts. I couldn’t wear them to meet people, or to go to work. Maybe if I was 20 I would. They’re just not right for my lifestyle.
AGS: Okay, I kind of feel like a street-walker [sporting the same patent-leather wedges Krentcil had on earlier]. And, at the same time, I don’t ever want to take this off. It’s so comfortable. I want to be able to pull this off; I just don’t know if I can… these are one size bigger than I normally wear, but I think they’re perfect. Otherwise they’d be too short.
AFG: I’d go for these instead of the jeans. The silhouette isn’t as extreme. They’re sort of retro, pin-up-ish. I feel like that’s kind of fun. They’ve really grown on me. [Fifteen minutes later, still sporting the same pair of shortalls, and having traded a tie-in-front cotton blouse for a plain white tee] I like it better with just a T-shirt. It’s fun in a campy way. They’re more flattering than I would have thought.
FK: These would be good rock-festival rompers.
AGS: This is totally hilarious - all of us dressed the same.
FK: We should form a rock band; we’ve already got the outfits.
AGS: We can call ourselves the Chaotics.

On the Skirt ($166)…
FK: [Sporting it without the suspenders] The skirt is kind of normal.
AGS: It’s a great length; a few inches above the knee but high-waisted so it doesn’t look too short. It makes your legs look long...
FK: I feel like a guy would really like unbuttoning them, but that’s a whole other story.

*Era of Chaos denim is available exclusively at LF.

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Denim Road-Test: Earnest Sewn
Pro Hockey Player Richard Park Takes Hutch for a Spin

Both in the rink and on the road, NHL athletes are typically sworn to rigid clothing formalities such as uniforms and traditional business suits. So, it’s hard to imagine that, in their downtime, any of these sweaty hockey dudes actually showcase a suave sense of style. But, at least in the case of New York Islanders forward Richard Park, it’s entirely accurate. 

Having played hockey practically since his infancy, Park, 31, is seemingly supernatural on the ice. After spending countless years of his youth playing in junior leagues, Park’s talents eventually caught up, landing him pro status in 1994 when he signed with the Pittsburgh Penguins. The team’s acquisition of Park was an interesting landmark one, being that he’s the second Korean-born athlete ever to play in the NHL.

But, while Park is a natural on skates, he’s had a bit more difficulty when it comes to a slightly different sport: shopping, or, more specifically, finding a great-fitting pair of jeans. So, when we asked Park to test out a pair of Earnest Sewn’s latest in sought-after men’s denim styles (aka: Hutch), he happily obliged.  Considering that the NYC-based company prides itself on “updating the American heritage lifestyle,” and understands that versatility is essential, one would be hard-pressed to find a better fit for an athlete like Park, whose lifestyle is equal parts fast-paced and dynamic. Here, Park’s take on the jeans, in his own words: 

So where are you these days during the off season?
We live in Redondo Beach during the summers. 

Where did you actually grow up?
I grew up in LA until I was 13 and then I moved to Toronto and lived there for three years. Then, I lived in a little town where I played in the Juniors League - Bellville, Ontario. A total of six years in Ontario, Canada. My sister and I moved up to Toronto together. We actually moved up because of hockey. I was invited up to play on a team, so we moved up and had a really great experience, and went up the next year! People started telling me that I was a really good player, so I played Juniors level…and then I ended up going pro. 

I always see hockey players wearing full-on suits, when they’re traveling or going into or out of the hockey stadiums/rinks. Do you have to wear them?
When we’re on the road, we pretty much have to wear suits all the time. I think the professionalism of it is why we wear them. When you’re playing the game, you want to be really presentable, because we are in the public spotlight the majority of the time. I travel so much. We play 41 games on the road and that’s not including play-offs and preseason. 

When do you get to just cut loose and finally wear a pair of jeans?!
For instance, if we’re playing The Rangers, we’ll go in the night before. We always travel the night before. More often now, teams are allowing players to go to dinner in jeans. Whenever we’re not in suits, we’re in jeans. It’s either one or the other! 

Have you had a chance to check out the Earnest Sewns?
Oh yeah! They’re 36’s and fit perfectly. 

Being that you value your time and you have to wear either your uniform or a suit traveling… what do you like most about these jeans?
I think athletes have a certain type of body. It’s one of the hardest things to find as a hockey player -- first, a nice-fitting pair; and secondly a nice-looking pair that have a lot of style and look good. They work well both dressy and casual -- that’s the best thing I like about them, their versatility. Most jeans don’t look really nice to wear to a nice dinner when we’re traveling, you’ll usually have to wear the usual black pants. However, these jeans I could wear to dinner with the team. 

Could you ever wear them playing hockey!
In the jeans?

Yeah! In the jeans!
Well, maybe not underneath my equipment, but if I was just wearing skates, I could, because they’re that real lightweight denim, which is my favorite. Yeah, I could pull it off!

Any final words about the jeans...
I think right now we’re sorta in the “jean boom” and people have progressed into making jeans a necessity for everyone’s wardrobe. Finding a pair like this, is not only really comforting, it’s very time consuming in a sense, because you know you’ll get good quality with the product.

~Jessica McMenamin

Get Yours:
Earnest Sewn
's Hutch Jean, $231, is available at Earnest Sewn's NYC outpost, An Earnest Cut & Sew, 821 Washington Street, as well as online at retailers like revolveclothing.com

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Beauty Road Test: Biotin
Hairstylist-to-the-Stars on the Industry’s Best-Kept Secret

For celebrities, a botched spray tan, over-plumped pout or just plain bad skin can land one as heavy a critique as would connections to the Church of Scientology.  Thus, certain beauty secrets prove covetable.  As a result, only a favorable few have been enlightened about biotin, despite the fact that ‘It’-girls and over-the-hill actors alike are currently buying it in bulk.

Worth its weight in gold for both limp-haired femmes and follicle-ly challenged gents, Biotin (occasionally referred to as vitamin H) is part of the B-complex vitamins that generates both hair growth, and, in some cases, re-growth.  In addition to helping maintain a steady blood-sugar level, Biotin will also strengthen nails.

When we first heard the name spouted from the lips of a hairstylist at the new Serge Normant at John Frieda salon in the Meatpacking District, we were immediately intrigued.  And, after learning that Normant (one of the leading hairstylists in the fashion industry) recommends it to all his clients, who include Ellen Barkin, Gwyneth Paltrow and Kate Hudson, our tongues were officially wagging.  So, we asked Ty Holbrook, 30, one of Normant’s right-hand men, all about the beloved beauty product, what your locks say about you, and what styles are ‘in’ this season. 

Is biotin something that’s been used in the biz for a long time or more recently?
More recently.  I’d say for the last five months.  I heard one of the guys at the salon recommending clients and some celebrities to try it and they all came back later with tremendous results. 

What kind of hair types do you recommend it for, and what kind of effect does it have?
We recommend it to clients that are on the thinner-haired side.  It helps with hair growth, not really with re-growth.  It makes the hair thicker, healthier and grow quicker.  I think the dosage is 500mg, and it’s imperative that you double the dosage.  Then, it takes about one month before you notice a change. 

In your opinion, what does one’s hair say about them?
I think it expresses their moods, their creativity.  You can tell that someone is creative by the way the hair is cut, the style, and the way it’s groomed. 

So what does your hair say about you?
It changes all the time, so, I guess that says a lot about my… no, well, about my personality.  I like change. 

What hair trends have you noticed this summer?
Bangs were hot and I think they still are.  I’ve cut a lot of girls’ hair off recently, like collarbone-length hair boy-short with a number-one clipper on the side and longer on top with a bang.  Kind of like a Mohawk, but not. 

Did any of them freak out afterwards?
I have a good eye when it comes to knowing beforehand if it’s going to look good on someone.  Most of them like it. 

Any celebrity styles you think are really on the mark?
That girl, the one that dances with Jay-Z… Rihanna.  That style is pretty hot. 

Ah, the new bob with the bangs?
Um-hum.  Hot. 

Is there any style you wish would just curl up and die?
Yes!  The Meg Ryan haircut.  I’d be happy if I never saw it again. 

What is the number-one essential for hair this summer?
I wouldn’t know what to tell you; every person needs something different.  If John Frieda still made that Ocean Waves spray – you sprayed it on frizzy hair, wrapped your hair around your fingers and it became great beach-y hair – I’d say that.  I guess I’d say Surf Spray --  Bumble and Bumble makes one. 

Or just come in for a consultation with you…
Totally.

~Alisa Gould-Simon

Go There:
Serge Normant at John Frieda Salon
, $400 and up for a cut with Normant, $125 for a cut with Hollbrook or another salon stylist, 797 Madison Avenue, (212) 879-1000

Third photo by Michael Thompson for Vogue Italia

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Beauty Road-Test: Jambes Lourdes
Beauty Aficionado Jade Berreau Sizes Up Sponge’s Miracle Cream

When Markos Lambros was 18, he gave a speech about his family’s skincare line.  “I took a spoon and ate the cream during the presentation,” he recalls.  The line, originally developed in the ‘70s, has been recently re-launched as Sponge, all olive-oil-based products made in Greece with the purest ingredients. 

“We’ve been harvesting from the same area outside Athens for years and know exactly what the environment is like.  So, we have total control from beginning to end,” says Lambros.  It all started when his OBGYN uncle developed a product to help circulation in pregnant women’s legs.  Since then, the line has expanded to include a day cream, avocado oil, and jasmine aromatherapy mist.  “We haven’t changed much as far as the methodology is concerned,” says Lambros.  Though he wouldn’t recommend eating the cream as way of testing its pureness, he does say, “People have to just use it and then talk to me.”

So, we decided to road-test the original leg cream, Jambes Lourdes ($110), on expectant mother Jade Berreau.  Berreau is the perfect tester:  Not only is she 7 months pregnant, she’s a freelance photo editor at the big beauty magazine Allure.  After leaving Berreau with the cream for a week, we sat down at Brown on Hester Street to talk reactions over mac-and-cheese and apple tarts. 

What about your lifestyle made trying this cream especially appealing?
With my job I do a lot of sitting.   And I never really have time to get massages. 

And, did it work?
First, it’s super-moisturizing.  When you’re pregnant you get extra-dry skin, among other weird things that happen to your body. 

Like what?
You don’t want to know.  That’s another story.  But when I put this cream on, it tingles right away.  Like a good, cooling tingle.  

Does it absorb?
It has been really humid lately so it’s hard to tell.  But, regardless, I like the extra moisture.  I noticed that, as I’ve been getting more pregnant, I’ve been getting blotchy on my legs; and with this cream by the end of the day it’s not there and the tone is better. 

Does it take the cellulite away?
I don’t have cellulite!  Maybe a little… 

Working at Allure you must come across tons of beauty products.
Tons.  And I get frustrated with about 99% of them.  It’s all about the packaging or the superficial stuff that gets in the way of a good product.  I don’t have patience for that.  I need something that works. 

I was just talking with Markos about how pure and organic the line is.
Well that’s important because, being pregnant, I try to be as natural as possible.  I’m avoiding a lot more things as far as chemicals are concerned.  When you think about it, the skin is your biggest organ and you absorb so many chemicals through it. 

Can you tell from the texture of the cream how pure it is?
Yes, it doesn’t smell perfume-y. It smells natural. 

A lot of non-pregnant women also use this product to tighten and refresh their face and neck, so I decided to give it a shot. It made the tone of my skin more even and look rested.  I think it has even taken away some of my freckles.
Your skin looks really good. 

Thanks.  The cream feels really nice...
And the color’s weird! 

I know.  Markos was saying that the color sometimes puts people off, but it’s because they don’t add color-neutralizing chemicals, like most other products do… 
When I see a product that does have a weird color or smell, something we’re not used to, I think that it’s usually the most natural thing. They’re not trying to cover up anything with chemicals.  So I like its weird color.

~Sara Costello

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Video-Game Road Test: Guitar Hero II
Air Guitarist Dan Crane On Airing Grievances & Promoting World Peace

To dive into the world of air guitar for the first time is enough to make your head spin.  It’s a place loaded with groupies, fueled by mandatory drinking, and judged according to three categories, one of which is ‘airness.’  Then there are the stage names – Hot Lixx Hulahan, William Ocean and Big Rig, to name a few.  However, for the purpose of this article, we’ll focus on just one adopted air-moniker: Bjorn Turoque (pronounced B-yorn To-rock).

The latter is the alter-ego of Dan Crane, the perpetual bridesmaid of international air guitar competitions.  That is, until Crane tragically lost the crown to the Rockness Monster in 2005 and retired for good.  Since then, he’s been spreading his air guitar love worldwide via the recently-released documentary Air Guitar Nation (for which Crane is literally the poster boy - immortalized mid-air on advertisements throughout the world) – and his debut tome, To Air Is Human.  To boot, Crane was just named resident MC for this year’s air guitar competitions.

In light of Crane’s love for all things rock ‘n’ roll, we enlisted his help to try out a slightly different form of virtual rocking – specifically, Activision’s newly-launched video game, Guitar Hero II.  Already schooled in Guitar Hero I, Crane happily obliged.  On a Thursday morning, just before heading to Sacramento to record with one of the two non-air bands he plays in, Crane graciously invited us over to his Chelsea apartment for a few rounds:

Why did you get into air guitar in the first place?
The first one, in 2003, seemed like a naturally stupid and ridiculous thing to do.  I’ve been a musician all my life and had rock-star dreams as a kid, and this was a way to do it without a lot of work. 

Has your success as an air guitarist satisfied those childhood desires?
Strangely enough, it has.  I’m more famous as an air guitarist than I’ve ever been in my own band. 

How does ‘airing’ compare to performing with your band?
I went into it thinking it was going to be funny  it’s the same rush as being on-stage with the band.  Plus there’s the element of competition in air guitar. 

Can playing guitar really hurt your air skills?
Playing guitar doesn’t help you.  Guitar Hero is the best thing you can do because it gives you a sense of the separation between the right and left hand. 

How else can Guitar Hero help?
The idea that you’re getting so deep inside the song… the only other way to get that deep into the song is to drop acid. 

Is that something you’d recommend?
I would recommend it, just not for competitions. 

Overall impressions of Guitar Hero II?
Bitchin!  It has all my favorite songs – ‘War Pigs,’ ‘Woman’ by Wolfmother, ‘Mother’ by Danzig, ‘Ace of Spades,’ the lynchpin song of the film.  These are all air guitar classics.  My favorite thing is the career mode, where you’re developing your band.  At first you’re playing little bars to a few people and there are rats crawling around.  As you advance you get to bigger venues.  The final concert is at Stonehenge!  You get these three encores – they’re all secret songs.  And the final song is ‘Freebird!’ 

Do you think ‘Freebird’ was the right choice?
Perfect.  For Airoke nights, if the crowd is right I’ll put on the entire song [14 minutes and 55 seconds] and invite the whole crowd on-stage with me.  The energy is palpable, electric. 

How many hours have you clocked in on Guitar Hero?
Does that include being stoned?  Because time moves slower then… maybe 24… But I’ll definitely take this on the bus for the US tour.  Everyone will love it.  

You’ll be on the road quite a bit?
Yep.  The regionals are in D.C. in June, then there are competitions across the country.  The finals are in August and the international championship is in Finland in September. 

Anything you don’t like about Guitar Hero II?
The thing I don’t like is that they have these Guitar Hero nights.  One, it competes with air guitar.  Two, it’s boring.  It’s bad enough in your friend’s living room having to wait your turn.  And people don’t do anything exciting.  I hope that fad disappears. 

And the major differences between I and II?
The songs are different.  And on II the graphics are a little better.  The game play is the same though. 

So what are some of your signature moves?
As reported on airguitar.com, my signature move is the mid-song spliff.  I light an air spliff, take a toke, and throw it into the audience.  God, I sound like a stoner… I’m really not.  Oh, yeah, and I’ve done air blow too. 

What’s the audiences’ typical reaction?
It blows their mind all over the room. 

How difficult is this game for first-timers?
The first time is really hard if you’ve never played guitar.  But YouTube has these videos of four-year-olds playing ‘Ace of Spades’ on Expert level and they’re blowing it away. 

If you could play Guitar Hero II against anyone, who would it be?
Nietzsche. 

Interesting choice.  The Finnish-champion air-guitar-as-peace-movement - what’s your take?
I didn’t think it was for real until I went to Finland for the first time and met people from all around the world.  They’ve all come together for this competition; there’s something very Olympic about it – putting differences aside.  And there’s a lot of drinking, which helps build bridges. 

So it’s actually quite wholesome, aside from the drinking.
It’s non-violent, environmentally friendly, and you’re rocking out with your comrades. 

Is there a specific song or album you’ve always listened to pre-performance?
Oh yeah.  I really tried to mix it up though.  But C. Diddy, who kicked my ass, always listened to “Play With Me” by Extreme.  He stole it from the Bill and Ted soundtrack, which is probably the best place to take from. 

Do you think Bill and Ted have had a big influence on air guitar culture?
They were really the frontrunners in the art form; they helped make air guitar acceptable to the masses.  But there have been others.  Tom Cruise in Risky Business with the poker.  Beavis and Butthead. In the ‘90s air guitar really reached the nadir of respect.  People associated it with guys who sit on their couch and get stoned all day. 

And now with the movie, and your book, air guitar’s reputation has been resurrected.  Do you see it as an art or a sport?
It’s both.  It’s a natural atavistic response to hearing music, similar to dancing and having sex. 

Are air guitar groupies anything like regular rock groupies?
Indie-rock groupies are kind of shy.  Basically, with air guitar, it’s like I’m in Motley Crue or Guns n’ Roses.  They’re full-on. 

Do you think you’ll ever leave the world of air guitar behind?
This is my fifth year.  It gets old… But I got this email from a kid doing a class project.  He interviewed me over email and he just wrote me this long email where the last line reads, ‘If it weren’t for you, I wouldn’t be passing English.’  It’s for guys like him, plus the groupies. 

~Alisa Gould-Simon

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Spa Road-Test: Facials
psychoPEDIA’s Friends & Family Divulge NYC’s Best Pore-Cleansing Outposts

It’s prime time for spring-cleaning, and we’re not just talking ridding your apartment of dust bunnies and bleaching everything in sight.  There’s another surface that’s desperate for a good scrubbing – your face.

Now that winter weather is behind us, we’re all due for a good, refreshing facial.  And, since one’s skin is an extremely personal thing, we figured road-testing only one wouldn’t do the trick.  So, we pooled together a few cosmopolitan facial-connoisseurs and asked them to single out their favorites.  Here, a firsthand review of the best facials New York City has to offer:

Priti Beautiful Organic Facial ($120)
The Facts: Priti Organic spa - brainchild of Kim D’Amato, a former model, artist and photographers’ agent – is located on 1st Street in the East Village.  The Priti Beautiful Organic Facial uses Dr. Alkaitis organic ‘skin food’ products.
The Reaction: I love the Priti facial for their organic masks, cleansers and lotions.  The hole-in-the-wall space in the East Village seems intimate compared to the warehouse-like spas in Midtown, and I find the overall experience extremely relaxing.  This isn’t the place to go for serious extractions and painful scrubs, so don’t feel cheated if they don’t squeeze out impurities for ten minutes.  However, the soothing masks and lotions soften the skin, and the aestheticians provide lessons on what kinds of foods you should eat for your skin type, as well as what formulas will help cure your breakouts.
~Amanda Kludt, Gridskipper.com 

Dr. Mitchell Mandel Medical Facial ($85)
The Facts: While Dr. Mitchell Mandel can help you with a variety of skin ailments, his aesthetician Claudia works particular wonders with pores.  Facial services at this 68th Street office include the basic Medical Facial, as well as the Microdermabrasion Facial.
The Reaction: The facial is done by this Brazilian lady, Claudia, who works for him.  She used to work in different spas but has been working out of this office for awhile now.  The facial is pure, simple, medical; it’s not about fancy-smelling lotions.  She cleanses, extracts, moisturizes all in like 45 minutes.  It’s well-done without a lot of fancy stuff.  I feel like when I go to fancier places they use whatever products they want on your face even though it might not be the best thing.  He also has his own product line.  I was skeptical at first, but I really like it.
~Vivan Thi Thang, Nickelodeon International
Mitchell Mandel, 116 East 68th Street, #1C, NY 

Eva Scrivo European Deep Cleansing Facial ($110, 1hr)
The Facts: Eva Scrivo is a renowned hairstylist and colorist who’s been beautifying the locks of celebrities for years.  But, that’s not to say her namesake Meatpacking District salon isn’t beneficial for what lies below the hairline.  In addition to the European Deep Cleansing facial, patrons can also sign up for Hot Stone, anti-aging, and acupuncture facials.
The Reaction (facial done by Ali): She’s very thorough.  She doesn’t push products on you and really accesses your skin.  She’s also got great bedside manner.  The room is tranquil – removed from the city noise.  There are lots of blankets and a heating pad.  And they use Yonka products, which I love.”
~Lindsey Taylor, Editor-At-Large, Martha Stewart 

Mario Badescu European Facial ($65, 1hr)
The Facts: The line of beauty products to which founder Mario Badescu lends his name has been keeping customers (and their skin) satisfied for 40 years now.  Thus, it’s little surprise that Badescu’s eponymous Upper East Side spa attracts the likes of Heidi Klum and still books up fast.  The European Facial is the spa’s sole item on the facials menu, for good reason.
The Reaction: An affordable, no-nonsense facial.  I didn’t find anything about this place relaxing, and the facialists here seem more like overbearing Russian mothers (“Have you been picking?  No more picking!”), than relaxing beauty experts.  The closet-sized rooms offer barely enough space to fit you and your facialist; the masks are very basic; and the whole set-up is geared towards selling Mario Badescu’s product line.  These qualms aside, once the redness of my face subsided, I got compliments on my complexion all week.  Plus, you can’t really complain about the $65 price.

~Amanda Kludt

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Restaurant Road Test: BLT Burger
Comedian Dave Hill Bites into the Beef

Not to be confused with the master hypnotist/illusionist or the ‘70s Brit-rock guitarist from Slade of the same name, Dave Hill is a writer, comedian and host of Dave Hill Explosion – a talk show that has featured guests like Rufus Wainwright, Sandra Bernhard, and Dick Cavett.  The fact that this Hill also plays guitar (with Children of the Unicorn and Valley Lodge) and likes to trick himself into staying sick to avoid work is also purely coincidence.

Because we’re Hill fans and it’s National Hamburger Month, we decided to combine two loves, and ask Hill to test out French Chef Laurent Tourondel’s take on an American classic.  So, we invited Hill and fellow comedian Max Silvestri to BLT Burger, the latest edition to Tourondel’s highly-praised BLT restaurant pack – BLT Fish, BLT Prime, and the nascent BLT Market at the Ritz-Carlton in Central Park included.

Despite feeling under-the-weather, and having two back-to-back nightly performances on his plate, Hill met us, along with Silvestri, at BLT Burger for a meal.  Below, the verdict:

I hope you like hamburgers…
Hill: Yeah.  I live in the West Village now [home to Corner Bistro, Jane Tavern, etc], so I’m eating like four hamburgers a week.  I’m getting to know my hamburger-eating self. 

And have you been to any of the other BLT restaurants?
I’ve been to BLT Prime.  I had a lovely time.  Some showbiz people took me there.  I’m  a simple man; I probably wouldn’t go there unless someone else brought it out.  I would now… basically I try to get other people to pay for stuff [laughs].
Silvestri: The spiked milkshakes look good...
Hill: It’s too early for me.
Silvestri: I probably have an Airborne you could dissolve in it.
Hill: I’ll have a coffee milkshake.  

Is it allergies?
Hill: I have an overall body debilitation that started a week ago.  I’m prolonging it because it’s keeping me from having to do anything and I’m enjoying not doing anything.

How long do you foresee it lasting?
Hill: Until Monday. 

What happens Monday?
Hill: I have to work.  I’m shooting something for Adult Swim.  And I’m doing this thing that I can’t really go into detail about.  It’s for a large, unnamed corporation; they hired me to do all this stuff… it’s internal so it will never be seen. 

So, how did you get started doing comedy?
Hill: Do you want the long story or the quick version?  The long is actually kind of interesting and has bits of things you can learn from. 

Let’s go for the Long…
Hill: I’m a writer and a musician so I was used to playing in rock bands.  I always liked talking in between songs; I would always talk for as long as it seemed like a good idea, even though the rest of the band would be like ‘shut up.’  I was writing for a TV show, I’d just come to NY, and the producer was like, ‘You should try performing.’  When you’re writing something you always want to do it yourself.  I didn’t know the comedy scene at all, but I always wanted to do a talk show in a bar with some friends.  So I started the Dave Hill Show, I did it five times at Siberia Bar in the basement.  It was going well and people really liked it so I started trying to make it good and it started to suck.  I learned a lesson that way – do it naturally because, if you over-think it, it’ll suck. 

And now Dave Hill Explosion is going strong…
Hill: Yes.  Sadly I was reading message boards - because I need to know that people like me - and after the last show someone said ‘this reminded me why it’s cool to live in NYC.’  I liked that. 
[The waiter brings over orders of BBQ and Spicy chicken wings, as well as Coffee, Grandma’s Treat and The Go-Go milkshakes.]
Silvestri: What are these candies on top of the shake?
Waiter: They’re tiny milk duds.
Hill: That’s from the future. 

Impressions?
Silvestri: I’m really impressed with the milkshakes.
Hill: Solid. 

What do you think of the chicken wings?
Hill: I think they should combine the two sauces into one crazy sauce. 

As an alternate option, or as the only option?
Hill: For my purposes I would be ok with it being the only option.  But, for other people, maybe keep it separate.  The BBQ could use a little heat [to note: Hill once won a jalapeno eating contest in Cleveland, won two tickets to a Red Hot Chili Peppers concert and then sold the tickets at face value and pocketed the money.  He still feels bad about it.] 

How do you feel about the handy-wipe [tucked in the basket with the wings]?
Hill: I’m pro handy-wipe.  They’re one of those things… you’re not used to getting a handy-wipe and then you have one and you’re like, ‘I could use this at least once an hour.’
Silvestri: I like that it’s just there.  It’s not like, ‘Oh, do you want a handy-wipe?’ so you feel like a dirty baby.
Hill: They’re not judging you.
Silvestri: It’s like: ‘If that’s used when we pick up the wrapper we’re not going to know who did it.’
Hill: It’s like in a hotel room that has that romance kit or whatever.  ‘We’re not saying that you order prostitutes, we’re just saying that you might want to order a prostitute, and we’re ok with that.’ 

Thoughts on burgers?
Silvestri: I would be down for any sort of burger but not the turkey, veggie or salmon burger.
Hill: Nah, that’s a waste of time.  That’s an affront to my senses. 

[Chili cheese fries, sweet potato fries, a BLT burger, an American Kobe burger and a Lamb Merguez burger arrive.]
Hill: [Holding up the BLT Burger – Angus Beef with Bacon and a house sauce] This is really good. 

What do you think of the sauce?
Hill: I think it’s great!  I think I may have tainted it by putting it in ketchup and mustard. 

And the Kobe?
Hill: The Kobe was good, but there was too much mushiness going on. 

And the Lamb?
Hill: Excellent, and spicy.  It’s really good, but I don’t know if I’d come here and order it…
Silvestri: Those are perfect [gesturing to the sweet potato fries]!  It’s really easy to overcook them, but these...
Hill: They’re delightful. 

So you’re truly a beef-only burger guy?
Hill: Yeah.  Even though the Merguez is a burger-shaped food item, it’s not really a burger.  I’m against the healthy alternatives.  If you’re going to smoke, smoke Marlboro Reds and pull the filter off.

Where do you see yourself in five years?
Hill: Part of me always thinks that each thing I do will be the last and I’ll be working in an auto-parts store… I’d like to see Dave Hill Explosion make it to TV.  And my friend David Rakoff and I just sold a script for a film.  I hope that we make that.  It would be fun to make movies. 

If you could have anyone on your show, who would it be?
Hill: Isabella Rossellini.  She said she’d do it.  Her manager came to the last one and liked it. 

Final thoughts on the place, the music…
Hill: It seems like a hip joint.  If they played Kansas [which is playing now] the whole time, you wouldn’t get any complaints from me. 

I think that should do it.
Silvestri: Your people will love this.
Hill: My people [sighs]… I want to meet them. 

~Alisa Gould-Simon

Taste It:
Wish you could cook like Tourondel?  Get one step closer this fall when BLT releases its namesake cookbook.

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Denim Road-Test: Sling & Stones
Panther On Going Green (& Leading a Dance Revolution)

For a guy who invented his own breed of organic “freak” dancing, choice of denim is critical. With his recently-released record Secret Lawns, the debut album off new label Fryk Beat, Chicago-grown and now Portland-based Panther (a.k.a. Charlie Salas-Humara) has been touring the country and using his funky, electronic-disco beats to inspire concert-goers.

If you haven’t seen one of his live shows, do yourself a favor and check out YouTube, which features Panther’s avant-garde video for 'How Well Can You Swim' or the entirely-cardboard-box-constructed video for 'You Don’t Want Yr Nails Done'. Watch as he busts a move (or three).

For such an intrinsically creative dude, only a fair-trade, eco-friendly, all-natural pair of jeans would do. So, to test out the new socially-conscious, premium-denim label Sling & Stones, whose mission seems to be saving the world (housing orphans in India and preventing suicide in Japan, for starters), we at Psychopedia had the uber-active 33-year-old take his green (literally and figuratively) pair for a spin. Here’s what he told us about them:

Hey Charlie. Is it a good time to talk?
Yeah. I’m actually walking the dog. No! [yelling at dog] Sorry, he obsesses over squirrels.

Are you wearing the jeans right now?
Right now, no. But the jeans are awesome.

Great. But, first, about your music: how would you describe what you do to someone who’s never heard your music?
Well, for a while it’s been me and various instruments - all pre-recorded music. But now I’m working with a drummer and a violinist, so it’s more of a band.

Describe the new sound…
Ethiopian-inspired music with big sweeping symphonic sounds, cello, multi-tracks. It’s basically chamber track music.

Did you go to school for music?
No. I went for English… real pointless [laughs].

And you just finished a nationwide tour?
Yeah, just over a month.

What was the general reaction to your shows?
Depends on the different cities. In certain places, people watch, and in others they get into it. This tour was really good though, because people seem to know my stuff now.

Do you think it’s true that no one dances anymore?
It’s funny that people say that. Do people dance at a Stephen Malkmus show? Probably not… I guess it depends on the crowd. Like at the last show in NYC [at Third Ward] everyone was dancing. It was such a fire hazard. That place was packed with a million kids. I kept thinking, I’m just going to hang out near the fire escape. The fire marshal came and everything. It was so surreal.

Tell me about your impressions of the jeans…
They look really good. I’m not really into weird washes, which is why I asked for a dark pair. The green’s really nice.Normally, I wouldn’t wear something like that, because I don’t like stuff that stands out too much. But I really like them. They fit really well. And I was stoked because the company seems socially-conscious – the ink is organic and they’re fair-trade.

Is it fair to say you subscribe to the green movement?
Yeah. And it’s definitely good that it’s to the point where people are thinking about it. I mean they [the jeans] have to be expensive. How could the company afford it otherwise? I don’t really shop that often, but when I do, it’s from smaller companies, and organic is in the front of my mind.

Do you wear a lot of other jeans?
The only other ones that I ever wear are APC’s... maybe some old Levis. They [the Sling & Stones] kind of fit the same way as APC’s, except they’re a little more pegged. I’m already ridiculously skinny, so when I see myself in these it’s like ‘whoa!’ They make you look extra-skinny.

Have you worn them out and about?
Yeah. It was tough at first– when you have a new pair, you have to commit to them. I’ve worn them out bike riding and to work. It’s seems like they’ll last forever. I haven’t been able to find a pair of jeans like this where they’re not trying to be overt, and they fit my body naturally. They fit people with no ass really well [laughs].

What have you been pairing the jeans with?
Lately, the weather’s been nice, so I’ve been pretty much just wearing T-shirts and army shirts.

How would you describe your style?
I don’t know… burnt-out preppy. It’s been like that for probably 15 years. You know, preppy clothes that are falling apart – an early-30s hipster.

Tell us more about the dancing in your performances, as it’s something that critics and fans have really held on to?
I’ve done it for a couple of years. It’s kind of modern dance – performance art-ish, kind of late-‘80s choreographed. Basically making myself look uglier, spastic. It’s non-stop throughout the performance.

How do people tend to react?
A lot just stand and stare, but a lot are dancing too.

What are some signature dance moves?
It’s all pretty much improvised– the sign of the cross, kneeling, putting my hand out [laughs]… It’s barely dancing. More like chaotic, epileptic seizures. Fluid seizures. Those jeans would be great for dancing. They allow for a lot of movement.

So you’ll definitely be bringing them along next time you tour?
Oh yeah. I’ll blast through them so quick. I’m always on the floor.

~Leann Peterson

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Restaurant Road-Test: Cronkite Pizzeria
Stylofone Samples Lower East Side’s Latest Italian Import

“When I was 8 I OD’d at a pizza party on like six slices,” reminisces guitarist Simon Benedict O’Connor from rock-band Stylofone. “I had to be taken to the hospital. But it’s still my favorite food.” Considering O’Connor’s self-proclaimed status as a pizza connoisseur, psychoPEDIA decided to bring the entire band down to the recently-opened Lower East Side pizza and wine bar, Cronkite (started by chef Michael Ayoub, who also launched Cucina in Park Slope and Fornino in Williamsburg) for a Monday night tasting. “Watch that happen tonight. They may have to break out the wheelbarrow,” O’Connor warned.

The Brooklyn-based, New York City-bred band members of Stylofone (with the exception of drummer Will Stone, who’s from Northampton, Massachusetts) started playing together five years ago. For the last two years they have focused heavily on playing shows (they played 96 shows this past year alone), touring England, where they have a single out, and writing material for their upcoming first album, produced by Chris Sanchez of The Fever.

Around 20 minutes into the trial, a sampling of appetizers arrived: Fontina cheese wrapped in prosciutto; eggplant and peppers with Mozzarella; and an order of clams requested by bassist Max Heel. “I love frutta da sea!” he declared. Lead singer Jason Maartens Klauber, who is lactose-intolerant, dipped into the garlicky clams: “I am lactose extremely tolerant. I will eat cheese in any form. Liquid, hot or cold,” O’Connor stated, digging into the mozzarella, made fresh daily at the restaurant.

“Fontina is one of my favorite cheeses. That’s why I’m enjoying this. Is this supposed to be melted?” Heel asked of the Fontina cheese appetizer. “It’s not a dip. And don’t fill up on appetizers,” Klauber warned while focusing on an arugula and baked-pear salad.

Talk turned to whether Cronkite is an appetizing name, and the time O’Connor made out with a 45-year-old professor when he was a freshman at Wesleyan. “We were both wasted,” O’Connor explained. “Cronkite sounds like a 1917 name. It should be called Sam Champion,” Heel declared over the restaurant’s loudspeakers. (Sam Champion also happens to be the name of the band playing tomorrow night with Stylofone at Club Midway.) “Did you know Sam Champion is the only openly-gay weatherman in broadcast news history?” O’Connor added.

Cronkite divides its hefty selections of pizza and wine into three generations – Napoli (1st), Italy (2nd) and Cronkite (3rd). Stylofone ordered three from generation two and three, as well as a special no-cheese pizza for Jason. “Asparagus is my favorite-shaped vegetable. There are hardly any on this pizza,” Heel notices as he checks out the Asparagi E Proscuitto (asparagus, prosciutto, Fontina cheese, Mozzarella, onion and cherry tomatoes). Stone gave the simplest pie of the night, Monzese (tomato, mozzarella, parmesan, and fennel sausage), his vote: “I have pedestrian taste.” Everyone agreed on the Patate E Salsiccia (fennel sausage, fingerling potatoes, roasted peppers, Fontina cheese and tomato). But the Tartufo (black winter truffles, Fontina, Ricotta, Mozzarella and olive oil) received the most attention. “I like it. It’s really heavy. It’s like a dessert pizza,” said O’Connor.

Leftovers were boxed, and the waitress brought out a pile of pink cotton candy. “I made cotton candy during the summer when I was 18-21 at Yankee Stadium,” O’Connor said as he tore some off and threw it in the air. “They also made me the mayor of lemonade.”

At 11 pm Heel was busy text-messaging plans, and O’Connor was heading upstairs to call his girlfriend of the last eight days. “It’s going pretty fast. I already have keys to her house.”

Plans for band practice had to be cancelled. “We knew we’d be too loaded up on pizza and booze,” Klauber said as he threw back the last Peroni. Tom Petty’s “American Girl” played on the stereo as Stylofone made their exit, chanting “pizza” in unison to the song’s chorus.

~Sara Costello

Go There:
Stylofone plays Club Midway tomorrow at midnight,
25 Avenue B, (212) 253-2595, NYC For more Stylofone show dates, check out www.myspace.com/stylofone

Taste It:
Cronkite is open Monday thru Thursday until midnight, and Friday and Saturday until 2am, 133 Norfolk Street, (212) 375-1500, NYC

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Food Road-Test: Sprout Creek Farm
Cheesemonger Anne Saxelby on a Sacred Dairy Institution

Curd nerd, cheese-monger … call her what you will: Anne Saxelby could easily be crowned New York City’s own queen of cheese. Just last year the 26-year-old opened Saxelby Cheese in the Lower East Side’s historic Essex Street Market. Now, just a few weeks shy of its first anniversary, Saxelby’s namesake shop has garnered accolades, including New York magazine’s title of 2007’s Best Cheese Shop.

Following a stint at NYU (where she studied painting and drawing), Saxelby, a Chicago native, cut her curd-loving teeth at Murray’s Cheese Shop in the West Village before heading to Cato Corner Farm in Connecticut. Saxelby, who only sells American cheese at her eponymous outpost, has in turn visited countless dairy farms in the tri-state area. Here, she muses on the nun-run Sprout Creek Farm, a Poughkeepsie-located institution: 

To start, your shop sells only American farmstead cheese.  What exactly is farmstead cheese?
Well, it’s embellishing a little -- not all cheeses are farmstead.  The two types of cheese are artisanal and farmstead.  Artisanal is a hand-made product, not an industrial product.  Farmstead means that all the work is done on the farm.  Cheese is made from a farmer’s own herd – cows, goats, sheep. 

And how did it feel to find out New York magazine considers your shop the best in the city?
Oh my god, awesome! 

How did you go from art to cheese?
Cheese and art dovetail really nicely; cheese is really just edible art.  And the process is really meditative, rigorous and precise.  It’s the lifestyle too.  It’s hard physical work - rhythmic.  Artists are usually very self-sufficient and resourceful.

Why only American cheeses?  Was it a conscious choice?
I’d always wanted to focus on American cheese, and then when I got the space in the Essex Street Market, which is only 120 square feet, I had to be very selective.  I’m a pack rat, so the small space helps keep me focused. 

Do you think cheese farmers tend to have any particular, universal characteristics?
That’s a really good question.  They’re all very nice.  They’re so awesome.  Some can be a bit more solitary, but they’re nice too.  They’re very independent; a lot of them come to it from an artistic background. 

What advice would you give amateur cheese-shoppers?
You can judge a book by its cover.  Look at it and see if it’s healthy – that it doesn’t look like it’s discolored on the rind.  And, if you smell it, it should smell like cheese, like grass, like milk.  It shouldn’t smell like ammonia, which is a byproduct of cheese as it ages. 

What are your favorite cheese plates in the city?
One would be Marlow and Sons in Brooklyn.  My friend Tom sources all the cheese, and it’s all American.  The Tasting Room, but I don’t know if I should include that because it’s my cheese.  The funny thing is, though, when you eat your own cheese somewhere else, it transforms it somehow.  Also, the Gramercy Tavern.  They have this cheese board – a giant piece of wood that they wheel over on a cart.  There are probably 20 pieces of cheese on the board and you just pick one you want. 

Tell me about Sprout Creek Farm?
It’s a farm in Poughkeepsie.  There’s a small farm and an educational center.  It was started by sisters of Sacred Heart and began as a school for kids to learn about where their food was coming from, planting, etc.  Since then it’s become a multi-faceted farm.  They eventually had enough cows for a viable farm – around 25 – and started making cheese in the late ‘90s.  Now they have cow and goat cheese, meat, an on-farm market, and fresh produce. 

And you’ve actually taken a group to visit the farm?
Yep.  Last fall.  We chartered a bus, and on the way actually watched a cheese film [laughs]. 

A cheese film?  Do you remember what it was called?
Sister Novella’s Voyage of Discovery, or something.  It was originally a PBS special about Sister Novella – the world’s foremost expert on the mold that forms on the rind.  It was great, because the idea of cheese is such an abstract idea to people at first.  So we went to go see how it was made.  We hung out on the farm and met the farm animals.  The last part of the trip was a lunch with all their meats, veggies… a great spread!

Is the farm still run by nuns?
Yep.  There are two.  Sister Margo Morris is the one who took us around.  They still do the educational venue for kids. 

What do you find most unique about Sprout Creek?
Well, a lot of people see Poughkeepsie as kind of a gnarly town.  And the farm, it’s a big beautiful spread.  They probably have 80 acres.  There’s a barn with animals, a dining hall, a cheese-making room, a greenhouse, bunks for the kids, and this grassy expanse in the middle. 

And how’s the cheese?
They make three kinds of cow’s-milk cheese, all made from the same ingredients but aged in different sized wheels.  So, while they’re aged for the same amount of time, they taste very different.  The large wheel, Toussaint, is creamy and buttery.  The mid-sized wheel, Ouray, is dryer, more flaky, and the small wheel, Borat, is hard and nutty, almost grate-able. 

And this year you’re taking a group to New Jersey?
The Valley Shepherd, a family-run farm in Long Valley, New Jersey.  I haven’t been there before but they have this cheese that’s unlike any other cheese I’ve ever had.  It’s crumbly, tar-like, a little bit acidic, but in a good way. 

So, what’s your must-have cheese for summer?
I’m looking forward to the Twig Farm's cheese from Vermont.  It doesn’t ripen until late May, early June.  It’s this Square Cheese made from raw goat’s milk.  It tastes like goats, grass, flowers; there’s an earthy quality to it.  I love that, when the cheese tastes like a place. 

What wine would you pair it with?
A soft white wine.  A Vouvrais, or a Loire Valley white… even a crispy Rosé. 

Are American cheeses as affected by region as, say, French cheeses?
No.  I think American cheeses reflect the personality of the farmers rather than the region. 

And, I have to ask, what’s your take on eating the rind?  I personally love it but know many people who think it’s gross.
I say always try it.  It’s like the crust of bread.  It enhances the flavor. 

So what’s next?  Do you see yourself running your own dairy farm one day?
Oh, definitely.  I’m on a 10-year plan.  In five years I’d like to have the business be successful.  I’d never leave it completely but I’d like to make cheese on my farm and sell it in the city.  I’d like to go back and forth.  I don’t see myself living in NYC forever. 

~Alisa Gould-Simon

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TV Series Road Test: The Sopranos’ “Final Nine”
Twenty-something Creatives Talk Mobsters, Murder & Norman Mailer

It’s the end of an era: this past Sunday marked the start of HBO’s nine-season-long series The Sopranos final stretch.  Long hailed as the series that changed television – introducing violence, sex and intricately-woven (often metaphorically-laced) plot lines to American audiences in an entirely unprecedented way – Tony Soprano and co.’s last hurray is far from being taken lightly.

And, while one might envision the show’s typical fan base as soft-bellied suburbanites over 45, the Sopranos is still going strong with a younger set - specifically, the Millennials.  Case in point, this past Sunday a pair of twenty-something East Village dwellers – Pablo Lopez-Douzoglou and Matt Kliegman – hosted a few of their friends for a Sopranos party. 

Why the fascination with over-the-hill mobsters when plenty of their peers are across town, gathered on the dance-floor? Curious, we stopped by, had a Cannoli (or two), and asked around to find out exactly what explains the motivation to be mob groupie.  Our partygoers’ responses, in their own words: 

Pablo Lopez, 22
Web Designer at Nerve.com; Drummer for Sigmund Droid

Overall reactions?
I liked the suspense built up in the scene in the lake; I thought Tony was going to kill Bacala.  Also, the fact that AJ has a beard that looks like AJ from the Backstreet Boys.  And Christopher’s one-line in the whole episode with Tony’s reaction was great. 

Which character do you most identify with?
I think I identify most with Bobby Bacala because he is the nice guy who just happens to be stuck with this lifestyle, the fact that he didn’t want to kill the guy showed that he was a little more human than the other mobsters. 

Do you think it’s the best show on television?
Best drama.  I will always think that The Simpsons is the best show on TV.  It definitely rivals some of the best series.  It’s like watching one big long film.

Do you think Tony’s going to get busted this season?
Yeah.  I think there’s no way for him to ever quit the business… Or killed.  But busted is more probable. 

Explain your love for the series in five words or less:
Tony Soprano kills and goes to therapy. 

That’s seven, but I’ll take it. 

Julian Wadsworth, 24
DJ and Editor at Modernista

So, what’d you think?
It was tense.  The use of tension through the calm moments in the episode was edgy - lake shots and shots of children.  It’s unpredictable.  I’m trying to erase last season from my mind because it was horrible.  I feel good about this season.  Everything gets fucked. 

Which character do you most identify with?
Absolutely none of them, and I’m proud of that. 

Did you find Tony’s psychiatrist sexy?
For clandestine liaisons, for damn sure. 

CLOWE, 22
Head Photographer, Purple Alligator Photography

What was your favorite scene in the episode?
When Tony wakes up in the middle of the night to visit his sister and brother-in-law. 

What don’t you like about the Sopranos?
What’s not to like?  It’s the perfect Sunday evening activity. 

Who would you most like to see killed in the next episode?
An abusive midget. 

Do you think people that love the Sopranos are just wannabe mobsters?
Yes.  There is a psychological shift that happens when something is pursued religiously.  Also, I think the Sopranos killed real mobs. 

Do you think Tony is sexy?
No, I’m allergic to anger. 

Molly Yestadt, 23
Milliner, aka: Mad Hatter

Who do you think has the best style on the show?
I think that Tony’s sister was perfect-looking.  Her summer/beach look was perfect with her leathery skin and bathing suit/skirt-wraps sort of half covering up what needs to be covered.

Who is most in need of a makeover?
Maybe the maid needed a makeover.  I feel that she was made to look too Aunt-Jemimaish.  An American live-in nanny might be a touch more aware of the trends than that.  But, maybe not. 

What are your thoughts on AJ’s facial hair?
AJ’s facial hair – welcome my friend.  A little nerdy because it doesn’t exactly make him look old, just goofy.

Matt Kliegman, aka Steamclam, 23
DJ, Video Editor and host of weekly Monday night party at The Gallery Bar

Are you a big Sopranos fan?
I’m not the biggest Sopranos fan. I sorta started watching it a few seasons ago and have watched it casually since. I haven’t seen all of them… but I’ve seen a bunch and know it fairly well... so that’s my caveat… 

What were your overall impressions of the episode?
I thought the episode was sorta uneventful. I was expecting the last season to build up to this big super-awesome melee of gang fighting and blood and every thing... the seeds are sorta there... with the other dude killing Vito (the gay one) and all that. So I was expecting this big thing, which maybe is coming soon...but there aren't a lot of episodes left so they’re gonna have to start getting crazy soon… it was more of a screen saver than an episode.

If you could trade places with any of the characters, who would it be?
I'd be AJ cuz his girl is baangin! Or Carmela so I could blow Tony. 

Do you think that the series is ending at the right time?
I think the story could go forever. They could just keep adding shit. But it had a good run and maybe it’s better to stop before it gets too blah and they start repeating themselves too much, you know? And then kill Tony and have someone replace him... it’d be like Saved By the Bell The College Years sorta... I usually prefer when things end early than go on forever and suck... The Beatles? Yeah, cool. But the Rolling Stones? I suppose you gotta get outta the game before all the fans are geriatrics...

Supposedly Norman Mailer has credited the series as the equivalent to the modern-day American novel.  Warranted, or bullshit?
I think Mr. Mailer is pretty on to it.  I don’t think it’s bullshit.

~Alisa Gould-Simon

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Alcohol Road Test: Bulldog Gin
Cheeseburger
Likes Their Booze With A Bite (And In the Bathroom)

Who’d think that Cheeseburger and gin would go together so smoothly? That’s just what happened at the meeting of New York City band, Cheeseburger, and the sexy alcoholic beverage named Bulldog Gin.            

PsychoPEDIA invited the boys out for a tasting of sorts at the illustrious, speakeasy-like bar, Home Sweet Home, on Manhattan’s Lower East Side. The setting was perfect for this foursome to sip a London Dry Distilled Gin, infused with the taste and aromas of its selected botanicals, using traditional copper pot stills. Quite a change in preparation, compared to prohibition days when bathtub gin was a sought-after (and illegal) drink. Today, it’s all about sophisticated cocktails for the shaken-not-stirred circles who dominate the real estate in urban landscapes.

Bulldog Gin was founded by Anshuman Vohra, a former JP Morgan investment banker, and David Kanbar, an industry veteran from Skyy Vodka in 2006. Wanting to hone in on the needs of the hip set, who better than Cheeseburger to give it a whirl? Just recently back from a small West Coast tour and a new album out on Kemado Records, the guys were happy to oblige our invitation.

Upon the arrival of Joe, Christy, Luke and their touring guitarist Eric, Home Sweet Home’s bartender whipped up an array of cocktails for the band to test out. First on deck was a little something called a Brambelle, which consists of lemon juice, simple syrup, and Bulldog Gin (of course) with a splash of Chambord. Everyone’s eyes lit up upon their first sip and simultaneously said, “Hmmm, this is really good!” Christy also quipped, “Cheeseburger is more fun when we drink!” Next on the agenda was a Negronia. They referred to it as a girly drink, yet Christy chimed in again and said, “I’m closest to a girl here, I’ll taste that one,” then gulped it down.

There was one problem though -- they wanted to taste the gin straight from the source itself. So the bartender promptly fixed four gin martinis, allowing the band to truly feel the effects from Bulldog Gin’s exotic mélange of botanical flavors including Poppy and Dragon Eye, giving it an incredibly seductive fruit and citrus bouquet. Eric, being a self-proclaimed gin snob, said, “It was really smooth and had nice aftertaste to it. I’m not really a fan of the name, yet the gin itself is really good! That’s really the point, right?”

Not surprisingly, Cheeseburger found their way to Home Sweet Home’s bathroom for another round of gin martinis, as well as a philosophical discussion on whether or not it was the gin’s fault that toilet paper had mysteriously draped their bodies. We’ll say it was the gin.

-- Jessica McMenamin

3rd - 6th Photos by Seth Wolfson
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Metaphysical Road Test: NYC Psychics
Learning How To Find Love… And Then Leave It On The Backburner

In certain sections of New York, it seems there’s at least one psychic on every block.  You’ll spot them reading palms at hip downtown restaurants like Raoul’s or Employees Only, or stacking Tarot cards inside their apartment/office in plain view from the sidewalk.  And then, of course, there are the (less-visible) premier NYC psychics catering to a more affluent clientele - namely CEOs and celebrities. 

Considering delving into the metaphysical has never been so accessible, it’s safe to assume there are plenty of New Yorkers eager to have their fortunes read (preferably with a diagrammed manual included for free).  We happen to be one of them.  So, we scheduled one of our writers for her first psychic sessions with two of the city’s top practitioners.  Here, the experience in her own words:

1. Roxanne Usleman’s West 29th Street office is candle-lit with two big chairs facing one another.  The Nevada native has always been in the metaphysical profession.  She’s a certified hypnotherapist, interfaith minister, traditional Reiki master, and holds a doctorate in metaphysical science.  Soft-spoken, Usleman communicates in a way that lets you know she lives between this world and others.  

She asks to hold a metal object I wear often.  She holds the object and says a prayer.  As a child, she would see images in the form of themes, hear messages in the form of whispers, and sense feelings in bodily responses.  When the phone rang, she knew who was calling.  “The word psychic today has so many negative associations.  Yet the true psychic is especially sensitive to non-physical forces.  Being intuitive is a direct perception of truth or fact independent of reasoning abilities.”   

My many past lives as a French woman and someone with a strong musical connection come to her first.  I tell her I don’t get to many shows and am not musical.  She suggests I start:  “Do as many musical interviews as possible.  Be around musicians.”  My life-mate will be around music and very smart, she hears:  “They say you are not to get involved with any married men” -- something I haven’t done in the past, and not good karma for anyone.   

Later, Usleman begins to sense strong vibrations around me from the grandmother I never met.  “She tells you not to be so stressed out, and massages your shoulders.”  Worrying, she reminds me, shows that we don’t trust the universe.  

Horses come up big in our session.  Riding horses will bring balance to my life; help me to trust more.  The combination of music, horses and staying in the moment, Roxanne says, will create magical connections in my life.  She gives me a big squeeze before I leave and tells me to come back in June when big changes will be happening. 

2. Judi Hoffman gets right to business.  “No hocus-pocus,” she says as we sit down in her Upper East Side apartment.  She asks me to pick a deck, shuffle and pick 21.  She looks at the playing cards (not tarot cards) and the information starts rolling.  Hoffman first learned of her abilities after having a migraine for two years.  It wasn’t until a therapist told her that her migraines were psychic voices, that she began to see it as a profession.  With an acting and writing degree form Carnegie Mellon, Hoffman continued to teach and do stand-up comedy.  She couldn’t keep the clients away who traveled to her apartment for readings: “Once I was ready, the clients just came.”  Since then, her clients have included four Oscar winners, Grammy winners and lots of fashion-industry people.  She sees her responsibility to be reading as accurately as possible, and hopefully protecting people from something horrible:  “I try to be as pragmatic as possible.”

“You are three guys away from a permanent relationship,” she says from the first set of cards.  From this moment, she catches my energy and I cling to every word, which come quickly and continuously. Although she asks for specific questions at the end, most of the session is an amazing ride: reading the cards and hearing dates, work projects, travel, and people who are in my life or will be.  She predicts two to three years into the future.  Her reading is thorough and the information all hits home.  Along with inevitable surprises, “some of the answers are in your unconscious. It’s the idea of hearing it or knowing it,” she says, that can help one move forward.  She sees a trip to Eastern Europe, Prague perhaps (where I was thinking Argentina).   

I leave with the taped session and two of Hoffman’s tapes – one on finances, one on relationships.  When I get home, I realize that the tape of my session is blank.  Although I remember all the key points, I’d wanted to go over it.  Then, I remember her advice for how to proceed with so much knowledge about the future: “You can’t forcibly make something happen.  Take it and put it on the back burner.”

~Sara Costello

Photo by Naomi Harris for NY Magazine

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Restaurant Road-Test: Bistro Papillon
Danish Rock Duo The Raveonettes Dig In

Could the aphrodisiac of oysters lend musical inspiration to The Raveonettes? Perhaps, considering it was their first selection off the menu at New York City restaurant Bistro Papillon, where psychoPEDIA invited the harmonious Danish duo - Sharin Foo and Sune Rose Wagner - to dine. 

Fresh off a small East Coast club tour from Washington D.C. to Boston, The Ravonettes are now getting revved up for fresh material on a forthcoming third album. And they’re hoping that fans who loved their freshman and sophomore creations, Chain Gang of Love and Pretty in Black, will love what lies ahead. 

Since everyone needs a break from work, who better to review escargot than a band that’s performed worldwide and dined all over Paris - the muse for the bi-level Bistro Papillon’s menu selection? To boot, The Ravonettes’ Parisian chic all-black ensembles topped off the scene -- the two sipping their Cote-du-Rhone in the dimly-lit bistro -- perfectly. (To note, the restaurant’s namesake, Henri Charriere – aka Papillon – was a notorious underworld and society figure before he passed away in 1973.) 

Here, the review, from the pair of self-proclaimed food snobs: 

Sune Rose Wagner - “I think our waitress is already a little like the psychoPEDIA type.” 

Sharin Foo - “I think what we really need to do is to talk to her, because it’d make for a more interesting interview!”

SW - “The most interesting part of whole evening was our waitress!”

SF - “I love the fact that she’s not selling us food or wine at all – she wasn’t pushing anything on us.” 

SW - “It’s a different approach and you don’t come across it very often, where a waitress is honest with you [about] their food. She’s painfully honest. She even told me, when I first was going to select a wine... ‘You know, that wine is going to be a little funky with your chicken.’ Then she offered me another wine instead.” 

SF – “It seems to be a traditional French Bistro type of place but they’re also trying to be a little innovative and different with items like the lamb and how it has a fusion of a mojito wine glaze.”

SW – “My chicken had a Cajun infusion flavor.”

SF – “It’s experimental, but not really. I feel like the experiments don’t work. The mojito glaze on the lamb chops made the meat taste awful. So I feel like they should stick to a menu that’s really traditional. In this restaurant, you should order the steak and fries – traditional bistro-inspired food. Obviously oysters are a favorite French dish, and we love oysters. It’s always so interesting to try different oysters at different restaurants.”

SW – “They were really great! Well served, fresh, with a nice little sauce that went with them.” 

SF- “Well also, the fact they’re an aphrodisiac, we’ll have to deal with that later on too…”

SW – “What do you mean by that? I don’t feel the aphrodisiac is working right now. Perhaps after a couple more glasses of wine, I’ll start to feel that aphrodisiac thing going on. I also had the snails to start off.”

SW – “They were very, very tasty, it almost could’ve been a dish unto itself, because I was almost full by the time I finished it!”’

SF – “Let’s talk about the wine too. I had a Sancerre with my appetizers, which sometimes people think of as more of a dessert wine, but it was nice and dry and fruity, which sounds like a contradiction. But it was really good and fresh.”

SW – “I had chardonnay, which was great with the oysters, which is what I wanted. It was really good with snails as well. I was very happy about that choice.”

SF- “I think the best thing about this restaurant though is our waitress and the waitstaff.” 

SW – “Yeah! I’d say so too!”

SF – “It’s not because they’re professional, it’s because they’re the opposite. They’re real and that’s really rare in New York City.

SW – “Really rare. I would even come by myself to have a drink at the bar and a bite to eat if she was going to wait on me or who I came with.”

~Jessica McMenamin

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Denim Road-Test: Jordache
Designer Elissa Dunlop on the Little White Horse

As predicted, the skinny and expensive denim trends dominating the last few seasons are washed-up.  And, at least for the ladies, high-waists atop wide legs are the next big thing.  (This month, French Vogue devotes a full 10-page editorial on high-waisted flares à la Jane Birkin circa 1970.)

Thus, when faced with a pair of flared Jordache jeans – complete with their signature white horse embroidered on the coin pocket – we figured it was about time we gave them a shot.  With a newly enlisted (and newlywed) Elizabeth Hurley as current spokesperson, Jordache has been steadily revamping its look, while keeping its price-point low, in hopes of reinstating its ‘80s heyday.

So, we handed the pair of blues over to Elissa Dunlop, a stylish downtown New Yorker and designer of the one-of-a-kind swimwear line of the same name.  With Dunlop so well-versed in vintage clothes – her eye-pleasing eponymous collection is made entirely from vintage fabrics (not to mention she’s exceptionally small-waisted) - we figured if anyone could make them work, she could.  In her own words: 

So how’d it go?
Good!  My sister’s here with me now; she’s been taking photos. 

What were your first impressions?
I’ve been wearing jeans that are pretty understated, so I thought, “I don’t know if I like this…”  I like bell-bottoms but I don’t usually go for glam-girl.  So I went more retro with them.  They feel really good.  The wash is nice – clean.

How’s the fit?
Good.  But it could be a little tighter at the waist.  They’re low, but not super-low.  I would like it if they were higher.

Do you like the embroidered horse on the coin pocket?
Yeah, it’s cute.

How would you style them?
I’d keep it simple, clean.  I’m wearing them right now with a T-shirt tucked in.  In the summer I’d wear them with a tank top and cute heeled sandals. 

How would you describe your style?
I want to say girly, but not really girly.  More toned-down.  I love vintage.

What are your favorite places to vintage shop in the city?
I like going to Edith Machinist.  There are a couple places on Rivington right near my new apartment [on Suffolk Street].

Do you remember Jordache from when you were a kid?  Did you ever wear them back then?
Oh, totally.  I don’t think I ever wore them though.  I was more of a Guess jeans girl.  It’s funny because the jeans I wear now are similar to Guess jeans, just without the triangle and question mark, and the zippers at the ankles.  It’s a nice shape – a versatile cut.

If you could have any style right now, what would you choose?
I would really like a pair of high-waisted but straight-at-the-bottom jeans.  Simple, so the jeans aren’t the main focus.

Do you think the skinny jean thing is over?
It’s really saturated now, so there’s going to be a next thing.  I don’t think it’s necessarily over though; it’s just time for something different.

What inspires your style?
I love the ‘60s.  I like Art Deco design as far as patterns go.  Right now, I’m really fascinated with kaleidoscope patters.  I’d love to design my own fabrics.  I like looking at films; I’m waiting for all of these Bugsby Berkely [musicals] that I just ordered from Netflix.

How did you get your start designing swimwear?
I used to work for a surfwear company and I was going on vacation.  I looked everywhere but couldn’t find any swimsuits for my body type.  I had access to great Lycra fabric, so I drew a sketch and had a friend make a pattern and then fitted the suit to my body.  I love vintage shopping, and it was always fabrics with amazing prints and colors that usually caught my attention, but they’d be these pieces you just couldn’t wear.  I thought it was such a waste.  So it evolved.

Do you see yourself expanding?
I do want to expand the line.  Right now I have 3 top shapes and 3 bottoms; different combinations, and I use vintage fabrics that are always changing.  I’d like to do more shapes - maybe a one-piece or a high-waisted bottom.  I also wouldn’t mind doing dresses or things that work with swimwear.  Things you could wear to the beach or with jeans.

Any advice for prospective swimwear shoppers?
It’s important to know your body type – to try a bunch on and know what shape looks best on your body.

How many is a bunch?  Five?  Ten?
I don’t know.  I guess it depends on how picky you are?

Are you picky?
Yeah [laughs] I guess... 

Would your sister say you’re picky?
Yes [laughs] definitely. 

~Alisa Gould-Simon 

Get Yours:
Jordache Krystal Flare Jeans, $69, jordache.com

For more on Elissa Dunlop, check out elissadunlop.com, or stop by Charlotte Ronson to snap up some of her swimwear.

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Denim Road-Test: Odyn Jeans
Stella Schnabel
On Doing Good & Dressing The Part

Stella Schnabel is getting ready to go to work at a lower Manhattan shelter’s after-school program.  It’s a long walk to Catherine Street and she needs just a few more minutes to find the right pair of jeans. 

In her West Village bedroom that overlooks an elementary school courtyard, Schnabel finally settles on a pair of (psychoPEDIA-provided) high-waisted Odyn’s. Her body is long and narrow with high hip bones that practically meet mid-waist.  “It’s hard to find jeans that fit,” she says, but once she’s settled on the pair, she quickly throws on a T-shirt, black-and-white wool plaid jacket and black lizard Lucchese cowboy boots. 

When we showed Schnabel Odyn’s latest high-waisted skinny style in the Roxy wash, it was love at first sight.  Even her mother, Jacqueline Schnabel, stole a pair from the stack of varying sizes we’d brought over. 

Back in Schnabel’s bedroom, Polaroid photographs dating back 25 years are strewn across the mantle and in boxes lined on the floor.  There is Stella as a baby being held high in the air by her father, renowned painter Julian Schnabel, Stella age five looking pensive in a red polka dot dress.  Her childhood friend Simon O’Connor of the band Stylofone is playing on the stereo. “I still like to dress like a kid.  My favorite things are ripped T-shirts.” Her current uniform is Outback, old-worker clothing, lots of plaids and the occasional piece by Dior Homme. “The jackets are really sexy.” 

She heads to where the Manhattan Bridge meets Chinatown to the city-funded shelter. In addition to studying acting at Susan Baxtons Black Nexus School, Schnabel has been working as an intern at the shelter’s after-school program for kids age 6-11 since September.   “We paint.  I help them with their homework.  I try to make it fun for them.  And they’re so happy when they get it.”  Families can live at the shelter for up to three months - one of her favorite kids recently moved out.  “He was the sweetest kid - a total bookworm.  He borrowed a book almost every day.”  Schnabel was recently offered a full-time position at the program, which she is contemplating taking.  “I have a way of communicating with the most frustrated kids.  I’ve always been sensitive to the underdog.  I was the one in school who was defending the nerd.”

Most days after school for Schnabel, while growing up in New York City, were spent at the Alaia store owned by her mother in the late ‘80s and early ‘90s.  “I would get dropped off on the school bus and my mom would be there decked out in Alaia – tight-sausage clothing looking really sexy.”   The designer is still her favorite and one she often chooses for nights out:  “When I go out I like really sexy tight things.” Fortunately for Schnabel, her mother now designs a line of shoes, which she calls “the most comfortable in the world.” Something any metropolitan femme can appreciate.

~Sara Costello

>Get Yours:
Odyn Skinny High-Waist Jeans, $175
Jacqueline Schnabel Shoes, available at Jeffrey

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Denim Road Test: Proportion of Blu
Giant Drag’s Annie Hardy On Gift-Bag Chic & Her Solo Stint

Despite being an angelic-faced waif, Annie Hardy, of LA-based band Giant Drag, has been rumored to have as foul a mouth as any pot-bellied truck driver.  Not shocking, considering her band’s past albums have included track titles like “YFLMD” (You Fuck Like My Dad), and the smoky-voiced songstress has been known to enjoy long-winded discussions about sex. 

Yet, aside from a proclivity to sleeping in (she never wakes before 2pm), Hardy has recently, as she puts it, “grown up a bit.”  In addition to co-hosting a weekly Internet radio program – Get The Fuck Up – on LA’s acclaimed Little Radio (and sharing the sound booth with everyone from Apollo Sunshine to Slash), Hardy is hard at work on the band’s third album. And right now she’s a one-woman band: fellow vocalist Micah Calabrese left the band last December.

What better femme to Road Test the newly-launched, ultra-refined LA-based premium denim label Proportion of Blu, which caught our eye last month at Project NY?  So, we outfitted Hardy in a pair of 2 – straight-leg – jeans in a black Tre wash.  In her own words:

Hi Annie.
Hello [sigh]. 

Are you just getting up [it’s 2:45pm in LA]?
Yeah [sigh]. 

Still in bed?
Just got out.

So what’s with the sleeping so late - staying up too late?
Yeah, I stay up late.  Usually 5am.  Last night it was 6am.  I’ll write songs at night… I didn’t always stay up so late.  I think it started in high school when I started putting toxins in my body. 

What are three of your vices?
TV, cigarettes, and Dr. Pepper, to name the safer ones.  Oh, and fucking hawking loogies into empty Dr. Pepper cans because I’m too lazy to get up.

So how did it go with Terrell [Wick, owner and designer of Proportion of Blu] yesterday?
Great!  I got one pair of black jeans.

How do they feel, fit, etc?
They’re really cool.  Very comfortable.  And I can’t believe these little parts [rivets] are real gold.

Are they very stiff?
The denim is kind of hard, but not uncomfortable.  One of the girls there yesterday told me that the harder the denim is, the higher-quality it is.  I never knew that before.  They give way – allow for plenty of movement.  They’re kind of low-cut, and usually I need a belt with low-cut jeans so my butt crack won’t come out.  But, I didn’t wear a belt with these and I don’t think my butt crack came out once. 

So would you wear these on-stage?
Definitely.

Do you wear jeans every day?
Pretty much. 

How many do you own?
I’d say maybe 25.  I just got rid of some.  All the free jeans I’ve gotten are my favorites.  I couldn’t afford to buy that many.

How would you describe your style?
Excuse me [coughs, then hawks a loogie].  My style is like gift-bag chic.  Whatever I get for free mixed with whatever I bought for cheap.

And what would you wear your new Proportion Of Blu’s with?
They’re black, so you can wear them with anything.  I was wearing them with a white shirt and black hooded sweatshirt yesterday.  I like wearing all black.  If I needed to suddenly burglarize someone all I’d have to do is zip up my hoodie and I’d be dark as night. 

Have you ever stolen anything?
Yeah.  I stole one earring.  But my mom found out – right before I was about to drop it off the balcony. 

Off the balcony?
I was three and we lived on this big hill.  I didn’t even have pierced ears.  I think I just thought, ‘This thing is kind of shiny.’  She made me take it back to teach me a lesson.  Though, I think if I had stolen two she would have just kept them for herself. 

Tell me a little about the new Giant Drag album…
Right now I’m working on trying to find a producer.

Do you know whom you’ll be collaborating with as far as musicians?
No, I don’t.  I thought I did but now I don’t.  We moved up to regular Interscope so it’s not as freewheeling as last time.

So no more controversial song titles in store?
I feel like I’ve grown up a little bit.  That was four years ago.  I never thought about the fact that people would be reviewing them and writing about them.  There’s nothing nearly as controversial on the new album. 

Is there a theme running through the new album?
I have 24 songs right now, which is enough for two albums.  I don’t know what the theme is going to be.  They’re a lot slower, sadder songs; the last album was a lot angrier. 

Do you think that’s partly due to Micah having left the band?aside from a proclivityThat’s a little part.  That did get me out of a writing block I was in.  After he quit I was so sad; I was like, “I can write again!” 

If you wrote a song about the jeans you got yesterday, what would the title be?
The title would be ‘I love being black.’  Cause they’re black jeans and I love wearing black jeans.

If you could have any guest on your radio show who would it be?
Probably Axl Rose.  I’d like to collect the whole Guns N’ Roses set.

I read that you’re working on a Madonna tribute album that will go to benefit AIDS.  Are you a big Madge fan?
Not the hugest.  I’m a fan.  I definitely like the song I’m recording… I like anything that benefits AIDS.  AIDS is no good as far as I’m concerned. It’s something that hits close to home.  My mom’s best friend when I was young had it and died when I was 8.  It was back when it was pretty new and nobody understood it.  My best friend’s mom wouldn’t let me drink off the same cup as her.  

Educating people can be a slow process.  Who inspires you?
Oprah Winfrey.  I denied Oprah for a long time; I thought, “This is just a bunch of hooey.”  But then, about a year and a half ago, I started watching because I didn’t have cable.  She’s one of the best.

Would you like to have her on your radio show?
I’d love to.  But it’ll never happen. 

Maybe it will.  If you win one of her ‘Make a Wish Happen’ contests or something?
It’s funny you should mention that because she’s doing that ‘Make Your Wish Come True’ thing right now and I sent her a message on her website last night asking for a miracle for one of my family members.

Well, I’ll definitely keep my fingers crossed for you.  You’re at a pretty unique spot – starting a new album on your own.  How does it feel?  Exciting?  Terrifying?
I’m a couple yards away from terrified, and a little bit excited.  I just don’t trust my own judgment all of the time.  It’s scary to have all the weight on my back.  Like the song.  No one’s taking a load off Annie. 

What do you think Oprah’s advice would be?
She’d tell me to watch that DVD of The Secret.  The energy I put out into the universe is what I get back. 

So strange!  A friend of mine just bought that and couldn’t stop raving about it the other night.  Perhaps that could be your next road-test?
I’d love to.

 ~Alisa Gould-Simon

First photo Michael Schwartz
Third and Fourth photos by Michel-Jean Phillipe; makeup by Lauren J.B. OConnell

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Recycling Road-Test: From Skateboards To Sixties Shifts
Designer Becky Hickey On Going Green

Slowly but surely, ecologically-friendly garments and accessories have infiltrated the fashion world.  From green tees and totes, to environmentally-minded manufacturing and production methods, environmental conscientiousness has never been such a hot topic with the fashion set. 

Just ask Becky Hickey, a NYC-based accessories designer who’s been turning out recycled skateboards in the form of lust-worthy totes, iPod cases, messenger bags and money clips for the last few years.  Her eponymous collection, Beck(y), features one-of-a-kind pieces that meld well-worn, reused decks with high-end fabrics (like ultra-plush silk linings).  While Hickey is currently expanding Beck(y) beyond solely skateboard-inspired pieces, her eco-friendly theme is sure to remain.  Here, Hickey discusses going green, and why Jim Smiley’s is the place to go:

What initially inspired you to start Beck(y)?
I was at the Prada store in Soho, and in the entranceway there is that big wood, curved architectural thing, which reminded me of a skate ramp.  And then I was looking at the purses they had that season, all made with incredible silk.  I just liked the idea of juxtaposing really nice fabric with beat-up skateboards.  High-end and polished mixed with something beat-up.

So, the eco-friendly aspect of the process wasn’t really a motivating factor?
No.  And, I’m not super-green.  The whole idea of the bags being recycled was secondary.  But, now that I’m working with recycled products I get approached by people a lot.

For instance…
Just today I got an email from a guy who had seen my site.  He told me that you can tell Con Edison [the biggest energy provider in NYC] that you want wind energy.  And, I’d heard something about this before – that you can choose your energy.  It’s now a law that companies are able to get your percentage of energy from a place that uses wind.  So, now I’m going to contact him.  Because I started this project with recycling I’m being presented with more opportunities.

It sounds like a pretty rewarding by-product.
It’s great.  I can even see how many skateboards I’ve kept out of landfills. 

How many to date?
Around 2,000, over three years. 

Wow.  Are you yourself a skater?
I skate a little bit, but wouldn’t call myself a skater.  I’m more ‘friends with skaters.’  I’m attracted to the sport.  I like the fact that skating, music, art and fashion blend so seamlessly.  

How would you describe your personal style?
I tend to mix new things with vintage pieces – vintage being thrift-store or garage-sale purchases.  They’re new, but really comfortable.  They carry a history.  That’s why I like skateboards too.  All the scratches and stickers came from someone. 

What is your most prized possession in your apartment right now?
My saws. 

Really?  And we should assume these are for cutting up skateboards, correct?
Yeah.  My work studio is at home, in my loft.  They’re all just Home Depot saws – a table saw, a chop saw.  There’s a whole woodworking studio here.

How do you treat and prepare the decks for your line?
I cut them into the appropriate sizes, sand the edges.  Then I coat the board with a clear gloss varnish. 

And beyond the saws?
A little while ago I got on a kick where I wanted to buy real artwork.  I was in New Orleans at this vintage store [Jim Smiley’s] that sells these gorgeous gowns.  And I picked out this ‘60s shift covered in glass beads.  It still had the original tags on it. I thought, ‘this is art!’

Can you actually wear it, or is it too delicate?
It’s way too big.  So, I have it on a dress form.  It’s by this designer – I forget his name.  He used to be a well-known interior designer in the 40s and 50s, then decided to start doing fashion.  This dress retailed for $600 in 1965. 

And it’s never been worn?
No.  The owner of the shop told me that he found it at an estate sale of a woman who had been married to an oil mogul.  Her husband was notoriously cheating on her, so every time he went on a business trip she spent as much of his money as possible.  She would buy amazing pieces, then put them in the closet, boxed and wrapped.  So, at the sale, everything was still in the original boxes and hadn’t been touched. 

So what’s next for you and Beck(y)?
Right now I’m trying to expand beyond skateboard stuff to more traditional fashion.  I’m working on a line of handbags with artwork embroidered on the bags.  

Where did you find the artwork?
David Bray, an artist from London who does a lot of line-art illustrations of women.  I saw his artwork on the cover of Flaunt and it was exactly what I was looking for.  So, I hunted him down.  The line should be ready for Fall 2008. 

Get Yours:
For more on Becky Hickey and Beck(y), check out beckycity.com
For info on how to get eco-friendly energy (in the NYC area), check out: conedsolutions.com/

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Denim Road Test: Denim Design Lab
Artist Lincoln Mayne Tries Out DIY Denim

Is the men’s skinny denim market over — and oversaturated — or is it a refreshing opportunity for a dude to unapologetically flaunt his best assets?

Perhaps it’s a bit of each, which is why it was interesting to receive a pair of anti-skinny minis (aka: DDL-Raw Canvas), courtesy of Denim Design Lab, and see how they fared with skinny-jean devotee, Lincoln Mayne. An Australian designer and creative director based in the LES, Lincoln tried the wide-legged pants on for size. He also tested the accompanying DDL DIY Mechanic Kit – enabling the wearer to get crafty and personal with his own pair of jeans (skinny or otherwise). With his extensive background in art, design, and all-things denim, Lincoln was the ideal candidate to road-test both: 

Hey there, Lincoln. So what’s the word on these DDLs?
The jeans are loose-fitting farm-style pants. Definitely not my style.  Even though I know skinny is played out (and I’m sure I’m at risk of testicular cancer) I’m not ready for loose-fitting pants yet. These are, nonetheless, a very good fit. They don’t really have any outstanding detail, which is fine, and they’re made from cone denim, which is great. 

We figured we’d give you the kit too since you’re a pro:
A pro?  Sure, why not.  Don’t know that I am, but I am studied in sculpture; which is where I learned the fundamentals of art and design. And I’m self-taught. I think all good artists are self-taught, or at least self-abused! 

Looks like this kit gave you some tools to “abuse” the DDL jeans. Tell us more about the kit and the DIY process.
I have to say this kit works. In the booklet they had different ideas going on but I went with a tapestry style with lots of stitching, patches and printing. They still look too new and need a good beat-down, but that comes with time. 

It also came with a set of blow-up legs to put inside your jeans as you work, which were both humorous and functional.  I punctured them pretty quickly by mistake but with a little help from Elmer (the glue) I was back up and running. Also to my surprise there was a dremel. Who doesn’t love a dremel?! 

Um, what’s a dremel?
A rotary power tool; any artist/designer will know what to do with it. 

But would the non-designer plebian be able to use it right?
Sure, there are good instructions. 

What are you designing/working on right now, ostensibly with a dremel?
[Laughs] I’m currently working on several design projects for Bumble and Bumble, Botanical Tapestries for an upcoming solo show, and numerous fashion projects. 

Where can we buy your “fashion projects?”
Japan, Hong Kong, Australia. And I sell to a list of private clients in New York. 

So we need get on the list to get the goods?
Yes.

Noted. What are you into/inspired by right now?
Currently I’m into all things decorative. I’m constantly amazed at how little thought goes into most objects. And as far as artists go, Walton Ford and Paul McCarthy always inspire me too.

Are you inspired by, or at least pleased with, your finished creation?
The finished product would be good for photo shoots, bands etc. But as far as distressed denim is concerned, the look is best achieved when the owner has actually worn them and naturally patched them themselves. True distressing requires a personal history that can’t be recreated or reproduced.

Speaking of personal…awhile back you told us your New Year’s resolution. How's that going?
Oh, I’ve failed them all!  Let’s see… new, New Year’s resolution -- don’t make resolutions you can’t keep? 

~Carrie Rosten
Author of Chloe Leiberman (Sometimes Wong)

Get Yours:

For your own DIY denim courtesy of DDL, check out denimdesignlab.com

For more from Lincoln Mayne: lincolnmayne.com

1st, 2nd, 4th, 5th, images by Seth Wolfson

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Phone Road Test: i-mate
Fashion Week’s Most Lusted-After Accessory

As New York Fashion Week comes to a close, it’s time we take a moment to reflect on the wonderful things we’ve learned over the course of these past Fall/Winter 2007 collection presentations.  Marc taught us that less can definitely be more (and that fuchsia-colored locks have infinite potential); Proenza Schouler showed us that a perfect pink pout can be as rewarding as a Birkin bag; and Mother Nature reminded us that she is a cruel, unforgiving force.  Oh yeah, and the i-mate is totally the new iPhone.

We know, we know.  The i-mate’s been around for four years, and iPhone hasn’t even made its full-on debut yet.  But, immediately after seeing one of these bad boys in action, thanks to Line Communications’ Senior Brand Manager Sophia Brown, we were hooked.  Brown, an Australian-born-and-based brunette, was in town for fashion week – specifically producing fellow Aussie Toni Maticevski’s controversial, paradoxical (fragility-meets-bondage) show.  Since the i-mate’s not yet available in the states – solely Europe and Australia – we wanted to get the inside scoop from Brown.  So, we called her up at the airport, just before she boarded a flight homebound for Sydney, and got the stats on Brown’s all-time favorite accessory. 

How long have you had your i-mate?
5 months. 

How much did it cost you?
$1,000 Australian [$777.53 USD].

What made you decide to get it?
I wanted something that would make traveling easier so I wouldn’t have to carry lots and lots of luggage.

 And what was the reaction amidst the fashion crowd this past week?
Everyone who saw it wants one.  Everyone was gagging over it.  It’s getting really common in Europe and Australia but they haven’t brought it to the States yet. 

Tell us about the features.
The keyboard slides out from underneath.  It has Word, Excel, pdfs – full Microsoft Office Suite – so I can read my attachments.  You can do Skype on the phone too.  It has a 2-megapixel camera built in.  It takes video.  It comes with MSN on it and can take AIM.  It does pretty much everything.  It’s quite fast and the loading time is really good too.  

How’s the battery life?
If I use it a lot it’ll last me a day; if I’m using it less I’ll get a couple of days out of it. 

And how many hours is a lot?
On a busy day, a good four hours on it.  Not busy, a few hours. 

So from the minute you wake up…
I wake up and read the paper in bed… on my i-mate [laughing].  I read the NY Times in bed every morning. 

Would you say it’s changed your life?
Absolutely.  My back isn’t broken carrying a laptop everywhere. 

Do you have a nickname for your i-mate?
No.  But my roommate does call it the Blueberry.

It’s blue?
No.  It’s black and grey.  She’s just taking a piss at me because it’s not a Blackberry.

Any regrets about getting the i-mate once you heard about apple’s iPhone?
No, because I couldn’t open attachments and things like that on the iPhone.  Besides, I can play music on my i-mate. 

So what’s at the top of your playlist?
At the moment, I’m still liking that Thom Yorke album [Eraser].

And your ringtone?
Something extremely piercing that I can hear from the bottom of my bag. 

What’s the biggest drawback?
You can’t really insure it.  I guard it with my life. 

Have you ever lost or broken it?
Nope.  So far so good. 

And, now you’re off to Australia?
Yeah, I’ve got to get back to this stupid wedding.  No, it’s not stupid.  I’m just going to be jetlagged; give me one champagne and I’ll be like, ‘Woohoo!’

First photo by Nikola Tamindzic

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Phone Road Test: i-mate
Fashion Week’s Most Lusted-After Accessory

As New York Fashion Week comes to a close, it’s time we take a moment to reflect on the wonderful things we’ve learned over the course of these past Fall/Winter 2007 collection presentations.  Marc taught us that less can definitely be more (and that fuchsia-colored locks have infinite potential); Proenza Schouler showed us that a perfect pink pout can be as rewarding as a Birkin bag; and Mother Nature reminded us that she is a cruel, unforgiving force.  Oh yeah, and the i-mate is totally the new iPhone.

We know, we know.  The i-mate’s been around for four years, and iPhone hasn’t even made its full-on debut yet.  But, immediately after seeing one of these bad boys in action, thanks to Line Communications’ Senior Brand Manager Sophia Brown, we were hooked.  Brown, an Australian-born-and-based brunette, was in town for fashion week – specifically producing fellow Aussie Toni Maticevski’s controversial, paradoxical (fragility-meets-bondage) show.  Since the i-mate’s not yet available in the states – solely Europe and Australia – we wanted to get the inside scoop from Brown.  So, we called her up at the airport, just before she boarded a flight homebound for Sydney, and got the stats on Brown’s all-time favorite accessory. 

How long have you had your i-mate?
5 months. 

How much did it cost you?
$1,000 Australian [$777.53 USD].

What made you decide to get it?
I wanted something that would make traveling easier so I wouldn’t have to carry lots and lots of luggage.

 And what was the reaction amidst the fashion crowd this past week?
Everyone who saw it wants one.  Everyone was gagging over it.  It’s getting really common in Europe and Australia but they haven’t brought it to the States yet. 

Tell us about the features.
The keyboard slides out from underneath.  It has Word, Excel, pdfs – full Microsoft Office Suite – so I can read my attachments.  You can do Skype on the phone too.  It has a 2-megapixel camera built in.  It takes video.  It comes with MSN on it and can take AIM.  It does pretty much everything.  It’s quite fast and the loading time is really good too.  

How’s the battery life?
If I use it a lot it’ll last me a day; if I’m using it less I’ll get a couple of days out of it. 

And how many hours is a lot?
On a busy day, a good four hours on it.  Not busy, a few hours. 

So from the minute you wake up…
I wake up and read the paper in bed… on my i-mate [laughing].  I read the NY Times in bed every morning. 

Would you say it’s changed your life?
Absolutely.  My back isn’t broken carrying a laptop everywhere. 

Do you have a nickname for your i-mate?
No.  But my roommate does call it the Blueberry.

It’s blue?
No.  It’s black and grey.  She’s just taking a piss at me because it’s not a Blackberry.

Any regrets about getting the i-mate once you heard about apple’s iPhone?
No, because I couldn’t open attachments and things like that on the iPhone.  Besides, I can play music on my i-mate. 

So what’s at the top of your playlist?
At the moment, I’m still liking that Thom Yorke album [Eraser].

And your ringtone?
Something extremely piercing that I can hear from the bottom of my bag. 

What’s the biggest drawback?
You can’t really insure it.  I guard it with my life. 

Have you ever lost or broken it?
Nope.  So far so good. 

And, now you’re off to Australia?
Yeah, I’ve got to get back to this stupid wedding.  No, it’s not stupid.  I’m just going to be jetlagged; give me one champagne and I’ll be like, ‘Woohoo!’

First photo by Nikola Tamindzic

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Denim Road Test: Ambiguous Denim
How To Turn $80 Jeans Into $800

One cold afternoon last November, a package arrived at the psychoPEDIA office. Inside lay a folded pair of dark grey jeans courtesy of Ambiguous Denim. There was no return address or other info. All we knew was that we had a pair of nondescript Ambiguous jeans – that’s it. (We later found out the orphan brand is based out of So-Cal and is influenced by all things boarding – skate, snow and surf included.)

Though at first perplexed by the thought of who exactly would be the perfect ‘tester,’ before long we settled on a seasoned art director (specifically fashion and film) who, by reputation, is known for being elusive, as well as… well, ambiguous with regard to his style. So, in true indistinct form, we’ll keep his identity under wraps, save for the bits and pieces divulged between the lines. In his own words:

Tell us about your denim style. What are your staples?
I only wear three pairs of jeans: a pair of Kicking Mule 1980, an APC New Standard, and some Earnest Sewn’s in white that I picked up recently in Miami.

What do you like about each?
I like Kicking Mule: it’s kind of rigid and has a lot of thoughtful details. Rigid jeans can make you feel like an old man though. You walk differently in them - kind of stiff. The APC jeans are great once they’re broken in. And I like the white ones cause they’re just something different. I bought the white jeans in Miami because they were a dirty white and no one in Miami buys anything that's not white-white.

How do the Ambiguous jeans compare?
They’re really comfortable. They have just a little stretch or something to them [1% spandex], which is a nice alternative to wearing rigid. They feel kind of worn in already. I like the grey wash – simple, not too distressed. They’re also a little short for me; I’m 6’1”, so they’d probably be better for a shorter guy. Other than that, they’re very… ambiguous [laughing].

Do you like being ambiguous?
Sometimes, it depends on the situation.

What’s one situation when you prefer to be?
When I’m out of town. Sometimes you have more fun if people don’t know where you are. What exactly does ambiguous mean anyway?

Having more than one possible meaning, or causing uncertainty or confusion. Do you think that fits with your personality?
I could see myself as that, yeah.

What about with regard to your wardrobe? Even though you often wear high-end designers you typically opt for more nondescript items, no?
Yeah. I like simple. If I’m wearing designer clothes I don’t want people to immediately be able to tell who designed it. I don’t like to wear things packaged by the fashion market. I’ll add my own personality, like ripping holes in things or fucking them up a bit. I usually buy clothes with slight specialties. I go for stuff you’ve seen everywhere; it looks like everything else but it has something special – a cut or a sheen.

Do the blue rivets on the Ambiguous jeans count as a slight specialty?
I can’t say I like them. I mean, why not add details somewhere else? Or, if you’re going to make a classic jean, keep it classic with copper rivets.

So where would you wear them?
I feel like I’d wear them hiking, to fuck them up a bit.

Hiking, really? Do you hike?
Yep. I went to this place on the West Coast – Snoqualmie Falls, where they shot Twin Peaks – and I ended up hiking in what I had on: jeans, boots and tux jacket. I was with this couple; the girl was ripped like a bodybuilder, but was so obviously an ex-stripper. She had the look. She made it out of there in an hour. I think it took me five. Anyway, by the time I got out the jeans and boots had a lot more personality.

How would you describe your style?
A uniform of nothing… but there is also something. I buy the same thing over and over – I’ll have 50 different black T-shirts but they’re all slightly different, with different details on each.

What’s so appealing about a uniform of nothing? Most people, especially in cities like New York, love to stand out from the crowd…
Nice enough, mundane, ambiguous clothing kind of states that you can be anybody. I like that. Sometimes you go to a place and don’t really want to give out any information. You create a certain character and play that. They don’t need to know that much about me, and I don’t want to explain myself.

So would you wear the Ambiguous jeans anywhere outside of the mountains?
Yeah. I’d probably wear them to a fabulous dinner or benefit where no one else would have them. I wouldn’t wear them around any hipsters cause they’d fit right in.

And you think these could fly at a five-star restaurant?
Definitely. It’s all about how you carry yourself, and how you wear it. If you do it well, you can make an $80 jean become an $800 jean.

~Alisa Gould-Simon

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Denim Road Test: True Religion Jeans
Behind the Scenes of The Shark Pool

Denim companies are no strangers to product placement.  In fact, these days, it seems that all you need to make it big as a start-up brand is to land your jeans on the gams of a glamorous (preferably paparazzi-adored) celeb – i.e. Justin Timberlake and William Rast, Victoria Beckham and Rock and Republic, and Sienna Miller and Pepe.  And poof! The masses come a-runnin’. 

One of the best folks in the business to discuss such endeavors with is Tim Curtis, Vice President of Celebrity Endorsements at William Morris Agency, one of the world’s largest talent agencies.  Curtis, now based in Los Angeles, comes by way of Richmondville, NY.  “I had to leave the farm,” he says.  Considering L.A. is the capital of premium denim, we figured, who better to discuss the denim world with, than Curtis.

So, we called Curtis (sick with the flu) at his home in Sherman Oaks, where he lives with his partner Shandon Youngclaus.  In his own words: 

How did you get your start at William Morris?
I started out as a temp 11 years ago; I was then hired as an assistant; I’ve been the Vice President of Celebrity Endorsement for the last 6 years. 

Is the William Morris mailroom myth really true?
Well, there are pretty much 2 ways in: the mailroom or starting as an assistant.  I got really lucky. 

Have you seen “Swimming With Sharks?” [The ‘80s feature film epitomizing the corporate hell, from the assistant’s standpoint, that is the big-wig LA agency.]
Yes. 

And does William Morris compare?
Yeah, to an extent… there are definitely some screamers.  I’m much more relaxed.  Though you should probably ask my assistant, Annette.  I think she’s on…

Annette, what do you think?
A: It’s not nearly as stressful in our department.  But there’s definitely a similar definition between assistant and agent.  But I haven’t really seen the abuse.
T: No staplers flying [laughing]. 

So, Annette, if Tim was a shark, what type would he be?
A: He’d be like the one in Nemo.
T: I’m a vegetarian shark. 

Thanks Annette. So, Tim, let’s talk about jeans for a moment, how many pair do you own?
Around 30. 

And how many do you actually wear on a regular basis?
At least half of that. 

Do you wear denim to the office?  At least on ‘Casual Friday?’
It’s pretty corporate so I mainly wear suits, but we do have Casual Fridays. 

What are your favorite brands?
I’ve got a bunch of True Religion.  I like them because they feel like I’ve had them for a long time.  It’s always the true test – I won’t wear them if they don’t feel good. 

What style do you prefer, and why this particular brand?
Straight leg usually.  I like the stitching on the pockets – funky and fun.  It’s mostly about the fit though.  People comment on them all the time. 

Do you do skinny-legged?
Yeah, I do a combination.  It depends on what I’m doing.  It may be about comfort, or fashion. 

What about washes?
Depends on where I’m going.  I’ll do more dark-wash stuff at night and lighter, more beat-up washes for daytime. 

Where’s the last place you wore your True Religions?
Out to dinner with friends at AOC

And what do you typically wear them with?
Again, it’s a combination.  T-shirts, button-down shirts, sweaters, Prada loafers, Nike or Adidas, All Star hi-tops.  

How would you describe your style?
Casual, hip… Oh, I don’t know [laughing]. 

And, now onto the celebs: how do you feel about the recent evolution of celebrity endorsements – actors replacing models in fashion, beauty, etc?
I think it’s great and hopefully it’ll stay that way [laughing].  It’s been a successful marriage.  Stars are becoming more identified as brands.  And pairing up with the right company can really enhance their brand. 

What’s your take on the rumor that Paris Hilton was paid two million to attend the opera in Russia?
I don’t think she got two million.  But we have had things where people are paid six figures to attend a party or club. 

Best advice for clients with regard to endorsement?
Not to jump into a relationship with a product because of the money.  It’s got to be the right marriage.

How does this relate to you, as a brand, and your love for True Religion?
When you find a brand of jeans that fits you well and looks good you stick with it.  People start to see you that way, and you end up projecting more confidence because of it.

Would you ever want to trade places with any of your clients?
No.  I’m perfectly happy behind the scenes. 

What are you looking forward to this year?
I’m planning an amazing race for my friends around CA.  I did it once before with 15 friends – we spent three days river-rafting, milked cows, and skydived.  We even have a camera crew follow us around and film the whole thing so that each person can own an episode.  And, we usually tie it into a charity – last time it was with the burn charity that developed the ‘Stop, Drop and Roll’ idea.  So, every participant donates $100 to the charity in addition to the cost of the race.  This year I’m planning for about 20 of us to go hot-air ballooning, and kayaking through caves. 

~Alisa Gould-Simon

Tim Curtis portrait by Shandon Youngclaus

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Denim Road Test: My Ass Jeans
Kristin Vincent’s Trial at Her Home Sweet Home

Obviously it’s all about the ass… at least when it comes to women and their jeans.  Rumor is it’s the first place ladies check in the fitting-room mirror (and a common spot men’s eyes wander).  Thus, it’s little surprise that an Italian denim brand would make the ass such a priority.  Slightly more shocking is the name: My Ass

Both in name and in look, My Ass is the perfect extroverted style for the new trend in New York City nightlife: trading the velvet rope for unmarked hot spots with speakeasy-like entryways (reminiscent of the Prohibition era).  One such establishment is the newly-opened Home Sweet Home – a rocker bar on the Lower East Side, owned by Kristin Vincent. So we figured, since her bar is the big thing right now, and her nickname used to be ‘hot ass’ we thought, who better to road test a fresh pair of My Ass jeans?

So, psychoPEDIA outfitted Vincent in a pair and sent her off on a typical night of bartending and mingling with neighborhood locals, musicians and artists.  Her experience, in her own words: 

What bands that frequent Home Sweet Home have… loved your ass?!
Haahahahah! Oh my god! You’re too funny! Some have mentioned my ass, but I’m not going to say any names! I could get into trouble there. 

Seriously though, which ones regularly visit your spot?
Diamond Nights, The Young Lords, Hot Chip, The Glass, The Horrors, The Mohabi Five, Secret Machines, The Kooks… 

What’s the best thing about wearing jeans while you’re bartending?
Is there another pant to wear? Come on! That’s THE pant to wear while you’re bartending! You can wipe your dirty hands on ‘em. I guess the pure wear and tear – they stand up to anything. They’re the sexiest pants a bartender can wear. In the summer, you can cut ‘em up and wear them with boots too! It’s the standard outfit for a bartender. It’s a staple of what everybody wears in this bar too. It’s not a fancy place so most people just wear jeans too. 

Most female bartenders are hot, and you’re no exception! How sexy do you feel in these jeans?
How ‘bout I go on a tangent with that question, because the name of the jean is called My Ass. In the old bar I used to work at, a bunch of British boys would come in all the time and they’d actually call me “Hot Ass!” So, I’m really curious as to what they’d say about this pair of denim. The best part about these jeans, though, is that they’re super-soft and really comfortable. 

Why did you select them?
The reason why I picked them is because they’re green! I was going for a bit of ‘70s and a country look. I was trying to stay away from the generic blue, low-cut, stupid stonewashed theme. I thought the green was leaning towards the ‘70s and the pockets were a bit Western and country. The style of jeans look like what I base this bar on; which is the new rock n’ roll that has country in it while still maintaining a pure rock element. Bands like The Shins and The Drive By Truckers; bands that have that little bit of country in ‘em, but still rock ‘n’ roll. 

What did you wear them with?
I wore them with a Good Bad and The Ugly dress over them and my favorite brown leather Tulla boots. 

You used to DJ professionally for years around the world as DJ Siren. What has it been like to make that transition from one “night job” to another?
When I was doing it [making the transition] I thought there was this big difference of ‘I used to DJ and now I’m opening a bar.’ But really it’s just a transcendence of DJing. I used to go out and go to parties all the time and saw DJs and thought, ‘Wow, I’d like to do that!’ Then I became a DJ. The same thing happened with me owning a bar. I DJed at bars and clubs all over the place and privately thought, ‘Wow, I’d like to own a bar someday too!’ Natural progression I guess. 

Who comes into your bar?
Musicians, artists, lots of neighborhood people. Everyone from that actress Julia Stiles to other bartenders and staff from local restaurants – the guys from Milk and Honey, Freeman’s, Schiller’s, Jardis and Barrio Chino.

You know how guys always say: I'm a leg-guy, an ass-guy, etc. As a woman, what feature do you check out first?
I love the hands and forearms of guys. Big hands and strong forearms are so sexy on a guy especially if he is the tall, dark, lanky type. Added with a few tattoos and he's my man!

~Jessica McMenamin

Go There:
Home Sweet Home, 131 Chrystie St, (212) 226-5708, NY

Get Yours:
My Ass Jeans, myassjeans.com

And, if a pair of My Ass jeans just isn't enough to give you the boost
you've been looking for, contact Dr. Coleman and Dr. Saboeiro to find out
more about revolutionary fat grafting procedures to enhance your butt or
bust (all courtesy of your own body fat). lipostructure.com

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Denim Road-Test: Iron Army
Laura Albert Gets Cozy in Her Californian (By Way Of Canada) Blues

Jeans can be your best buddy. Except after major holidays. But barring severe eating disorder reactivations, jeans are THE dependable mate.  I don't wash mine, and not coz some Swede advises against it. Why would I drown my best mate? I glide some of that Nature's Gate Mandarin Orange & Patchouli deodorant stick 'round the crotch, and ain't no need to be mistaken for a gutter-punk.

 I love reminding my friends, "Iron is made stronger by banging the shit outta it!"  Knocking up against one another allows for a depth of connection. It's just the balance that's tricky –the pain of the process vs plain ol’ S&M.

The jeans I was sent sported bible proverbs: "As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens another."  It's printed on the inside, so unless you wear your jeans inside out, no one will mistake you for heading for Jesus Army Camp.

 These jeans are sharpened by your fellow beings, so you can take yourself, your dog, and your lover to therapy, but the jeans?  All the issues should've been worked out by the time you get them out of the bag. They are ready to love on you. And just the way you take a battered puppy home from the pound, their jeans feel eager… nay, starved-to-be-loved-on! I swore I heard them purr when I slid my legs in. It's all the homegrown effort – even the hangtags are art.

 The fellas that created these jeans moved from Canada to LA, but they didn't go Hollywood! They are practicing Fair Trade in Canada, giving the poor folks that say ‘EH?’ product to break-in whilst smuggling beer and cigarettes across the border. They are not just putting Bible in their jeans; they’re living it! They lay hands on these things endlessly; doing for you what Jesus would not.

 I won’t go into the fetishistic details of shuttle looms and frayed edges – coz frankly I would rather live in my jeans, and then get down to the serious work of saving souls by making art. Some art moves you, some art moves with you. Iron Army Jeans do both. Now I want the pair that has Proverbs 21:9 – "It is better to live in a corner of a roof in a house shared with a contentious woman."  Or a woman that ain't washed her jeans for six months. 

~Laura Albert aka JT Leroy

Get Yours:
For more on Iron Army: ironarmyclothing.com

Photo of Laura Albert Courtesy of Angela Scrivani

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Camera Road Test: Ricoh
The Yeah Yeah Yeahs’ Nick Zinner Is Happy Now

Great things come in small packages.  And, in the world of documentary photography, being small and stealth allows you to pounce on your subject and execute amazing photos.  Fortunately for photographer and guitarist Nick Zinner, he can fit into your luggage and play guitar faster than most metal bands. 

It’s a winning combination that’s helped Zinner, who studied photography at Bard College and later worked as a printer at New York’s Small Darkroom, publish three photo books with Evil Twin Publications and St. Martins Books.  Not to mention the two Grammy nominations he’s picked up with his band the Yeah Yeah Yeahs

All this considered, it’s no wonder the unrivaled capabilities of Ricoh’s new GR digital camera caught Zinner’s well-trained eye.  psychoPEDIA recently sat down with Zinner to talk about everything from his new toy, to Tom Hanks: 

How did you get started in photography?
A girlfriend in high school was taking a class. 

And you liked her, so you wanted to like photography too?
She was ok. But she was shy like me, and I liked how she could take a photograph of an object or a scene, and own it. 

So you felt like it'd help you relate to the rest of the world?
Well, I didn’t really know how to relate to the rest of the world, especially as a kid, so it gave me a way to observe the world. 

Why do you think most photographers wear all black?
Black absorbs all colors, and allows us to skulk in the shadows. It also looks great, should we have our photos taken.  It sucks in the light like we do. 

You printed photos professionally for years while playing music until your band made it big. Did you just realize at one point that you could switch it up? Play music for a living and take photos for fun?
After my first year in NYC, I made a decision that I wasn’t going to try and be a working photographer: I was interested in working in a lot of formats, I didn’t go to Yale, and I couldn’t handle the competition. But I never stopped taking photos; I just didn’t show them to anyone. When my band started playing in other cities and countries, everything was new and fleeting, and it seemed like taking photos was a way to both document and try to understand all of it. 

Who has been your favorite photographer?
The first one who really changed the way I looked at the world was Henri Cartier-Bresson. 

And who's been your favorite musician?
Hmm, that's a hard one. I guess I'd have to say Nick Cave

Who would you rather be chillin in a bar with, talking to over a vodka cranberry?
I've met them both. I’d probably say I got more wisdom out of Cartier-Bresson in 5 minutes then I did from Nick Cave. The thing I’ll always remember from CB was sitting at a table with him and watching him look up at another guy at the table and say, "I just saw a beautiful photograph, but I don’t have my camera.” Very French.

 You've printed a couple photo books; the last was published by St. Martin's. Do you find it hard for people to take your photography seriously since most people know you as ‘being in a band?’
It has usually been 'guy in a band' first, photographs later. But it’s a fine line because most of the images in the St.Martin's book were based around music. I just tried to get rid of most of the clichés.
Everyone wants someone to be one thing, you know? 

Ok. Let's talk tech… what are your favorite cameras?
I used a Nikon f2 for the first 10 years or so that I was shooting, and I really liked that because you could drop it off a cliff, and it would be fine. Mine actually was dropped off a cliff, but now I've mostly been shooting with the Contax T3 and G2, and this little Ricoh digital. 

What’s up with the Ricoh?
I like it because; it’s black, great in low-light situations, and has an amazing setting that makes everything look like a litho print, or a punk flyer called ‘text mode.’ The text mode is great for design, and seeing the design in everything around you. I got it at Adorama in NY after seeing some friends with it in Tokyo. Sometimes it can get noisy in the shadows when you’re shooting low light, but if you’re using it on a low ASA setting, it’s really sharp -- there are tons of websites about it. 

Do you only use it for fun party photos?
Ricoh GR scores big from the bloggers, and being tiny doesn’t hurt. It's pretty fast, and generally sharp. I've heard of people using it on ad jobs too. Check this blog out.

What are your favorite subjects?
The ones I've found myself shooting the most have been the crowds that my band played to, every bed I've slept in for the past 8 years, and portraits. I got into crowds after seeing William Klein’s photos from New York in the 50s, and I was impressed at how many faces he crammed in the frame, then you look closer, and everyone’s face is saying something about their character. I wanted to do that, but also document the social grouping that gathers for a rock show: it’s different and unique every time. Beds are almost the opposite of a crowd, especially slept in ones. They’re absent of people and they kind of hold the spirit of the sleep, the essence of the person who slept there. 

You seem like you're into pretty dark stuff, but you take pics of all of these happy, smiling excited faces. Do you admire the bliss and excitability in the kids?
Yeah, there are so many levels to it... I like that one face in the crowd- the ones where everyone is going crazy with their mouths open aren’t as interesting as the ones where the kids are lost in the music and the event, or when they look pissed off. 

So you like the pissed-off outcast?
Fuck yeah! I relate more to that than the kid flashing the horns. 

You just finished a world tour.  Are you just chillin and working on photos now for another book?
I’d like to do another book and have some shows, but we might do more touring which means more photos. 

If you were stuck on a deserted island with another person, and you could only have one... would it be your guitar and a recorder, or your camera and a film processor?
It depends if the other person could make music or look crazy like Tom Hanks in that movie Castaway... I’d probably take the guitar because I could either make the other person stay forever or jump in to the sea.

~Aliya Naumoff

Get Yours:

Ricoh GR, $699.95, from Adorama, adorama.com

Zinner’s I Hope You’re All Happy Now, $14.56, at amazon.com

Hear It:

For more from Zinner and the Yeah Yeah Yeahs, check out yeahyeahyeahs.com

Get their latest, Show Your Bones, $12.99, at amazon.com

Beds, Crowd, and B&W photos Courtesy of Nick Zinner

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ROAD TEST: Track Jackets
Star Of Track And Field Kate Moross’ Fab Five

You can accomplish a lot by hassling people.  Just ask 20-year-old artist/graphic designer/photographer Kate Moross.  She’s convinced major players in the London underground music scene that their lives would improve greatly if they used her amazing artwork. She has already made psychedelic flyers, nifty logos and cool websites for people such as The Gossip, The Young Turks and ComanechiThe Whitechapel Art Gallery even decided to use her artwork for a new album they’re releasing.  She was also one of the first few people to have their work showcased on Dazed and Confused magazine’s creative directory.  Currently handling all the artwork for punk-pop merchants Help She Can’t Swim, Kate is also a big fan of sports jackets.  We called her to find out her favorites: 

Out of all the sports jackets you currently own, which is your favorite?
Probably my red Adidas jacket. It’s the most water-resistant and it matches my red New York Yankees hat. It’s perfect for cycling because it’s thin and it has a good hood.  That jacket’s become slightly iconic because I took a photo while wearing it and lots of people have seen it, so it makes me look like a bit of a jerk. I still like it though.

What do you like about sports jackets?
There are so many out there to buy, but my favorite brands are Nike, Adidas and Fred Perry. I have some weird charity-shop ones, too. It’s like wearing an anorak, as that’s what they are, ultimately. I cycle a lot, so they’re great for that.  But most of all I like having my hood up. Not sure why. I like to wear two hoodies with a thin jacket on top.  All the layers give me warmth and protection.  There’s a rapper called Marvelous Macc Mello that I’ve seen on myspace, I think he played at the last styleslut party; he’s got some great jackets. 

Where do you get them from?
Sometimes people give them to me, but I get most of them from JD Sports.  Whenever I go there I’ll pick out a new pair or trainers, a new-era baseball hat, a hoodie and sports jacket.  All the jackets I wear are for men. The girls’ stuff is rubbish – it’s too short and too tight to wear over my hoodies.

How much do you spend on them?
Anything from 1 pound to about 70 quid. That’s the most I would pay. Although, I really want a black CMY Dim Mak Hoodie. It’s $120. There’s also an Adicolor one I want that’s about $200. I’m going to have to wait till I’m working for a big record label in order to afford that one.

Most expensive one?
My reversible pinstripe Nike one. It’s amazing. Dark red-and-black pinstripe on one side, but the other side is plain black. It’s heavy and I love it.

~Styleslut

See It:

More from Kate, katemoross.com

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Denim Road Test: Filippa K
Douglas Michael’s
Swedish Fixation

Douglas Michael came to the East Village from Pittsburgh—but the city whose claim to fame was being named “Most Livable” in, oh, 1985, wasn’t exactly a mecca for designer denim. So Michael headed east to run wholesale for Helmut Lang until, well, we know the end of that story. But before the imminent closing, Michael scored a slew of classic jeans in every style and color, while honing his denim expertise.  Surprisingly, his ultimate favorite pair of jeans is not Helmut at all. Instead, they’re a dark pair of multi-tasking raw denim, made by the Swedish line, Filippa K.  You can find Filippa K at Underdog East, his cozy, unassuming retail space that caters to other well-dressed Burgh-and-burb escapees.

Located in the heart of the Easr Village, a discerning downtown gentleman can stock up on quirky boxers by Unfed, cufflinks from Anglomania, and of course, plenty of jeans.  Current offerings include styles from 5EP, Salvage, Rag & Bone and the occasional pair of Wendy’s (as in Built by Wendy) WranglersT-County dress shirts line the racks, as do vintage pony military bags and homemade scarves made with love by Michael’s mom.  But denim is really Michael’s thing, and he was kind enough to feature his favorite pair today to tell us why they’re so damn great.

So, Douglas, what’s your signature pair?
These are called M. Ryan by Filippa K – dark, raw denim. A lucky sample sale find in NY since I’m a 33 and their samples are 33s.

Lucky you.  Are these lucky jeans or moneymaking jeans?
Well, I did buy them at a sample sale, which I suppose is lucky, and that sort of makes me money by saving it. 

Makes sense to me. And the best part about them?
The fit.  Somewhat skinny but not.  I’m not into skinny jeans but this pair is a happy medium between straight-leg and skinny. Plus, I am always a fan of raw denim.  These are nice because they look dressy and wear well for a couple weeks before I have to deal and wash them.  Oh, and I also like that there aren’t any visible labels—nothing that screams what jean it is.  It’s a very non-descript, clean jean.  Helmut would approve. 

So you and Helmut would disapprove of…
Jeans that are overly manufactured, anything with whiskers, crazy stitching or lame labels/ And I hate jeans that look ripped but like they were then stitched back together. That’s not cute.

OK, so break down your denim essentials:
Fit. Fabric. Color.  In that order. Always.

And where do you source new denim?
Want Agency.  They’re the wholesale agency who rep Nudie, Acne and Fillipa K.  All Swedes. And I gotta say the Levi’s store. Oh, and Schiller’s

Do your all-time favorite jeans have any non-redeeming qualities?
Well, OK, these retail at $325, not redeeming.  But they work hard, day-to-night, and I believe you should spend money on jeans. Nothing else. 

Not even sneakers?
I wear Converse. Converse are cheap. 

True. What was the last all-nighter you pulled in your Filippa K’s?
Last week, and they held up great. It was a late night at Fish Bar.  I ended up DJing for them. I even played Motown. Feel-good drinking music. Al Green’s “I’m Still in Love with You,”  Dusty Springfield’s “Spooky…” 

-Carrie Rosten

Author of Chloe Leiberman (Sometimes Wong)

 

Get Yours:

For more information on Filippa K, check out filippak.com.  For more on Michael, go to myspace.com/underdogeast

Filippa K, $225, and more at Underdog East, 117 E. 7th Street, NY, (212) 388-0560. Sample sale, Dec. 21-24

Photos by Seth Wolfson

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Holiday Road Test: Take Your Pick
From Coffins to Colorstrology

Nothing calls to mind hordes of various products, like the holidays.  Gift guides galore continually cover the pages of magazines and websites -- from the moment you digest your turkey, to the day your champagne-and-caviar hangover finally breaks. 

Like all faithful consumers, we prefer to try everything once.  But, in light of our desire to spread the wealth, we figured, we’ll give you some ideas.  Do your own road-test on a product of your choice, and email us a short written piece about it. .  The winner gets a free pair of premium denim.  This week’s Road Test assignment, not in order of importance:

SOUND BITES: Eating On Tour With Franz Ferdinand ($10.40)
What do rock stars really know about food?  Well, in the case of Alex Kapranos, lead singer of Franz Ferdinand (and former chef), a lot, actually.  Released in the UK last month, and on shelves stateside December 26th, Kapranos’ food guide is a collection of ‘witty articles of culinary experiences on the road over the past two years’ (new, as well as those previously published in The Guardian).  Channeling Anthony Bourdain, Kapranos’ tome, often with as much a focus on culture as cuisine, proves crossover can often be a very good thing.  To boot, Andrew Knowles, Franz Ferdinand’s drummer, illustrated the tome.
Amazon 

Run Athletics Polka dot (Pantone) 07 Sneaker
Thanks to Lawrence Herbert, head of Pantone Inc. since 1962, the modern world is a colorfully compatible place.  And now, on account of Run Athletics, you can nod to Herbert’s great feat by wearing Polka Dot on your feet.  Don’t believe Pantone is really a certifiable trend?  Just look to Colorstrology, a website that offers horoscopes and a matching pantone color.
Run Athletics

 

Toy Watch Crystal Acrylic Watch ($150)
Don’t let the brand name fool you.  These tricks, err, toys aren’t for kids.  At such a reasonable price, it’s the perfect alternative to Chanel’s nearly identical, much pricier version.  Designed in Italy, this water-resistant, unisex accessory also comes in similar models with a variety of faces (red, black, and mother-of-pearl included).  Still, because transparent is so the new black, the crystal acrylic is by far our fave.
Toy Watch 

UONO Cocoon (Price upon request)
Aging gracefully has all but vanished in this era of over-botoxed, surgically enhanced bodies.  But regardless of whether your goods are silicone or the real deal, few really think about preparing for post-mortem.  Enter UONO, the German company responsible for the Cocoon.  This sleek, ‘absolutely safe,’ biodegradable coffin (channeling sci-fi à la Kubrick) looks ever ready to preserve your best assets long into the indefinite future.  Choose from 14 colors for your flattened egg-looking pod.  Or opt for the Haute Couture service and enjoy the luxury of custom color options and silk lining long into the afterlife.  And, in the meantime, it doubles as a great chair or guest bed.
UONO

Leica M8 Digital Camera ($4,795)
You’ve drooled over it, lied awake pondering how you’re going to afford it, and now, it’s finally arrived.  Leica’s M8: the first digital camera to use the Leica viewfinder system, and the wet dream of every art-school student worldwide.  Crafted in Germany, this is the Rolls-Royce of photography equipment, so get in line.  And, should you be lucky enough to get one, hold on tight to your camera straps; you’ll be the envy of every shutterbug on the block.
Leica

~Alisa Gould-Simon

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Restaurant Road Test: Dinner Club – Arabian Nights
Masquerading At Suppertime

New York, more than any city in the world, unless it be Paris, loves to be amused, thrilled and surprised all at the same time; and will accept with outstretched hand anyone who can perform this astounding feat.

So read the immortal words of Emily Post (1919), as does the homepage of the recently-launched NYC Dinner Club. This monthly themed dinner and dance party is the brainchild of Julia Jaksic, 28, (chef at Employees Only and now the Beatrice – Paul Sevigny’s new bar/eatery) and Amy Burgess, 26, (an antique aficionado and hairdresser). What began as dismay with NY’s current social/supper scene, soon transpired into a series of elaborately-costumed affairs – complete with three-course meals, entertainment, and a vacuum-packed guest list (each invitee is solely allowed one guest). It’s a much-needed face-lift for NYC’s less-than-fresh nightlife.

Past themes include 1880s Parisian Salons and 1920s NY High-Society. Yet the latest installment involved finding inspiration further east -- Arabian Nights: Traditional Middle Eastern cuisine, embroidered silk, a trapeze performance by WinterGarden, and a screening of Prayer Cushions of the Flesh. So, psychoPEDIA asked some of the guests for the lowdown on what exactly makes Dinner Club delectable:

Julia Jaksic (Chef)
What were your reasons for creating the Dinner Club?
Amy and I found an organic relationship, her love for antiques and old world style and my culinary skills along side being a food history addict. So we decided to put them together and do something with our interests.

What in particular do you find disappointing about the New York social scene?
We were both frustrated with going to the same parties with the same people at the same places. No one was putting any effort into socializing.

Christian Stroble (Fashion Designer, Co-founder of Eventide)
What is the best part of the dinner club?
Getting dressed up and having a place to go that is different from the norm. When you arrive, there’s endless entertainment!

Margo Silver (Photographer)
What did you enjoy most?
The atmosphere - it was so original, with special attention paid to detail. They created a unique world that wasn't a restaurant, or a friend's house.

Their vision -- music, film, environment, and trapeze artists create such a special experience for friends to share.

Julia and Amy are such visionaries when it comes to creating the atmosphere with food, art, and entertaining!

Dagny Mendelsohn (Party Promoter & Manager of Employees Only)
I love the dinner club because of Julia and Amy's consistent attention to detail. Not only did it look like we were dining in 8th century Baghdad, but it smelled and sounded like we were there. It was almost like I was walking into an art installation. Everything was considered, from the worn wooden frame on the kitchen door, to the smell of spices cooking, to authentic pillows scattered throughout the tent. It's really beautiful, and I can't wait to see what these girls will create next.

Interview by Aliya Naumoff

Go There:

For more on Dinner Club

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Denim Road Test: Prps
Jeanealogist James Sullivan Makes His Case

Few people know denim like James Sullivan, a former pop-culture writer for the San Francisco Chronicle, and author of Jeans: A Cultural History of an American Icon.  In the tome – which is a bible for any self-respecting jeans-junkie -- Sullivan combs through the complex history of denim culture.

“Every generation has changed jeans to fit with the times,” says Sullivan, who lives outside of Boston, Massachusetts.  And Jeans, released this fall, charts the evolution – one rivet at a time. 

So, when faced with a particularly well-crafted, flawlessly finished pair of Prps jeans, psychoPEDIA knew exactly who to call.  Here, Sullivan takes the time to muse on everything from crotch rivets to white-dude dreads, and the scintillating denim details in between.  In his own words: 

The real clincher for me is the crotch rivet. There’s an amusing, if apocryphal, story about Levi’s in which Walter Haas Sr., the company patriarch between the wars, stood uncomfortably close to a campfire, then went back to the office and instructed his staff to remove the copper rivet from the bottom of the button-fly on the company’s signature 501s.

My new pair of Prps jeans has a crotch rivet. It’s one of the many ways designer Donwan Harrell has meticulously recreated a bygone era of blue jeans history. In a time when high-end jeans makers are falling over each other to come out with the most up-to-the-minute cuts and washes, Prps is an authentic throwback. 

Being a writer, I’m a sucker for the “story,” and Prps has a great one. If every premium jeans company needs to have a clearly defined brand image to distinguish itself from the competition, then Harrell’s jeans are well-suited to withstand the test of time. The idea behind them already has. 

Harrell, who co-founded Akademiks and was a leading designer for Nike, wants his jeans to honor what made the quintessential American product a classic in the first place. The denim on my pair was unprocessed, sort of stiff at first – perfect for breaking in. I’m old-school that way – I’d rather break them in myself, over time, than have someone do it for me with a jug of chemicals and a sand block.   

I’m 41, with three kids. Although I’m supposed to be the expert, having written a book on jeans, I’ve personally avoided the last several trends in jeans – and I don’t mean just skinny-leg and low-rise. I was already too old for the super-baggy look when that took hold a decade or more ago. 

A lifelong Levi’s loyalist, or at least since I started buying my own clothes, I’m drawn to the premium brands that ignore contemporary style in favor of the vintage look of 50 or 60 years ago -- Farmer, Rag & Bone. These Prps jeans are cut with room, kind of boxy, a look that lends itself well to a few inches of cuff, the way I usually wear my jeans. (Short legs, y’see.) Cuffing them shows off the selvage, too, which appeals to my inner denim nerd. With Chuck Taylor’s and a T-shirt, I feel like Jackson Pollock in these things. Not that I’m in a hurry to splatter them with paint – their nun-faded, deep-blue denim makes them my fancy-restaurant jeans at the moment.

There are plenty more intriguing details, too. Love the bag liners inside the pockets – they’re camouflage. The back pockets are nice and clean – no stitching embellishments to speak of, just a small purple tag at the bottom of the right rear. (The name Prps, apparently, implies Harrell’s affection for the color purple as well as the company’s one-word motto, “Purpose.” One of the multi-colored buttons inside the fly is purple.) And if you check out the brand’s handsome web site, you learn that Harrell has trotted the globe in search of the best materials and production, sourcing his cotton in Africa and hiring expert vintage-loom operators in Japan to do the construction.

“The jean grows with you,” he says, “like dreads.” Again, I’m way beyond the long hair phase, and even when I was in it, white-guy dreads would have been a tragic mistake. But I know what he means, and I know what I like.

Get Yours:

For more on Prps, go to prpsgoods.com 

James Sullivan is the author of “Jeans: A Cultural History of an American Icon.”

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Denim Road Test: Vigoss
The Life & Times Of William Sledd

It’s rare to get overnight Internet stardom via pop-culture portholes like youtube.com. Yet, cyberspace-based fairytales do happen -- as long as you’ve got wit, a webcam, and a stunner of an opener, like ‘hey bitches!’ True to that, William Sledd, the 23-year-old from Paducah, Kentucky, has made headlines with his quirky, candid video series on youtube.  

Not only would his subscriber list put any start-up to shame (over 18,000 and counting), in the three months since Sledd, a self-described ‘whore for product knowledge,’ posted his first video on youtube, his fashion advice and daily rants have amassed millions of views. Fans worldwide have posted response videos professing their adoration and probing Sledd for pointers.  His most popular video -- ‘Ask A Gay Man: Denim Edition,’ co-hosted with friend Stephanie -- first aired four weeks ago and has since racked up 896,153 views. 

So, psychoPEDIA figured, what better guy to outfit with Istanbul-based denim brand, Vigoss?  Before long, a pair of Vigoss’ Victor jeans arrived.  At 1pm on a Tuesday, just before heading off to his sales-associate job at the GAP, Sledd (in a slight Southern drawl) took time to ruminate on everything from newfound celebrity and discerning the best denim, to quilt museums and Karl Lagerfeld. 

Ok, first impressions…
I’m trying on [the Vigoss] as we speak—that’ll add to the experience.

The wash is really good.  There are a few whiskers.  I like a little bit of whiskers.  The leg is good too.  Everything’s good… until you turn around.  

Why?  What’s going on back there?
You have this back pocket that looks like a bat wing!  It’s got this little flap, but it’s not a traditional flap pocket.

I always thought no pockets makes the butt look bad…
Well, I have a nice ass.  Seriously.  If you go to my myspace you can see it.  You should look.  

Right after this interview.  So, is it fair to say you’re finicky?
That’s a good question. I’m really hard to buy jeans for.  

Has anyone ever done it successfully?
No. 

What would your ideal jeans look like?
My ideal jean would be a dark wash that’s worn, but not too worn.  With regular back pockets - standard pockets, nothing crazy.  I can handle some fun stitching, but not crazy distressing.  I like low-rise boot cut.  I’m not particularly fond of the skinny jean.

Your jeans say something about who you are in a big way.  You should never settle. 

So, what do your jeans say about you?
‘I’m 23 years old.’

Any denim trends right now that you like?
I don’t think so.

Any you definitely don’t like?
I don’t like baggy, or carpenter jeans.  Oh! And for women I think the whole ‘boyfriend jean’ thing is disgusting.  It makes girls look like lesbians.

Do you like to predict trends, or are you more of a commentator?
No, I don’t really predict them.  I’ve realized I’m not that person that says, ‘Oh, this is going to be so big this fall’… 

How does it feel to be an online phenomenon?
It’s overwhelming.  I posted my first video three months ago.  Now I get hundreds of emails a day [seeking advice on fashion, beauty, etc].  A lot of denim emails.  It’s impossible to answer all of them.

Any special treatment at the workplace?
It’s not really that big of a deal to them.  I mean, they love it.  Sometimes on a Saturday, a group of teenage girls will be there, staring.  That happens all the time. They’re too shy to say anything, but I know they know.  I’ve also had people come in to the store to see if I was real.  Today, some girls found the number of the Gap in Paducah and called me at work.  I have some stalkers.

Who are the real William Sledd fans?
I have a large following of teenage girls.  And of course the gay men love me.  And the mothers. 

Are any of them trying to set you up with their offspring?
No, not yet.  I’ve gotten marriage proposals though.  Every teenage girl asks me if I will marry them.  I just say ‘no.’ 

Do you have any style icons?
That’s a weird question.  I mean, a good question.  I don’t know.  I’ve never looked up to any particular man for fashion. Hmmm… maybe Karl Lagerfeld. 

Really…
No!  That man is crazy.  I mean, he’s an incredible designer, but when it comes to dressing himself… 30 rings, the white collar.  It always looks like he’s wearing something that’s going to poke him in the neck.  He looks like a 90-year-old pimp.  That bitch is creepy. 

I recently read something where someone was recommending you for ‘Gay Man of the Year.’  How does that make you feel?
[Laughing] That’s incredible!  I have no words for that.  Maybe I’ll get laid.

I see.  Is there a problem in that department?
No.  [Laughing] I have a boyfriend.

What does he think of your youtube fame?
He supports me.  Sometimes he gets a little jealous.  Like thinking youtube is more important.

What about your friends?
They all want to be in one.  I just tell them if they’re creative enough to come up with a good concept I’ll let them. 

So what’s the best thing about living in Paducah?
It’s small, but not too small.  It’s not far from bigger cities.  Like, I can go to Nashville and St. Louis to go shopping.  Paducah is right in the middle.   No rush hour.  You don’t have to lock your doors at night.  I mean, we do.  But we don’t have to.  

And the worst?
The fashion.  It’s Quilt Capital USA. 

Literally?  It’s the official Quilt Capital?
Yeah.  There’s a Quilt Museum, and hundreds of thousands of people come for the quilt show every year.  It’s so weird.

Bizarre.  So where are you going to wear the new jeans?
I’m wearing them to work. 

What about around Paducah?  Dining, drinking…
Oh my gosh.  There’s this Mexican place, Tribeca, downtown.  It’s so good.  I just had my birthday party there.  The enchiladas are so good. And we go to the gay bar here, DVA.  It’s tiny and trashy.  It’s really bad.  It’s the only place to go.

~Alisa Gould-Simon

Get Yours:

Vigoss’ Victor jean, $78.  For more on Vigoss denim: vigossjeans.com

See It:

Watch the latest from William Sledd

Coming soon…

Sledd and cohort Stephanie will take their psychoPEDIA-provided denim to the streets.  Look for video coverage at psychopedia.com on November 23rd.

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Aphrodisiac Road Test: JimmyJane’s Ember Candle
Have Your Flame And Eat It Too (Well… Almost)

From Agent Provocateur to Kiki de Montparnasse, boutiques selling luxury lingerie and high-end sex toys have become fairly commonplace in cities worldwide.  Yet, just when you thought the envelope couldn’t be pushed further, a San Francisco-and-Tribeca-based company has raised the bar. 

Enter JimmyJane’s Natural Emollient ‘Ember’ Massage Candle - foreplay’s new best friend.  The brainchild of Ethan Imboden, the erotic Ember candle, which comes in Habanero+Grapefruit, Ginger+Date, and Lychee+Lapsang scents, is made from cosmetic-grade soy wax and natural plant extracts that melt into massage oil. We lined up a super-sexy New York couple, Bo Caple and Christina Chen, to test out just how hot a wax/oil combo can be.  Caple, the head hairstylist/owner of ‘Private Salonette by Bo,’ and Chen, a fashion stylist and fashion editor for S, a Denmark-based fashion/erotica publication, happily obliged.  In their words: 

Did you enjoy the experience?
Christina: Yes!

Bo: Yeah!

Did you feel that it was indeed an aphrodisiac?
Bo: The idea of a candle that you light and pour on your lover is in itself an aphrodisiac.

How did it all go down?
Christina: The directions say to let the candle burn for 30 minutes, blow it out, then pour the wax onto the body.

So you have to prepare for this?
Bo: What do you mean?

Well you can’t just walk into the door and get to it. You’d have to offer the other person a glass of wine while the candle is getting ready, right?
Bo: The wax is pretty soft even when it’s not lit, so you can scoop it out if you really need to get to it.

Christina: It was better not to follow the directions, and keep the candle lit the whole time. 

Why?
Christina: After my massage, I had to relight the candle and wait till it got hot enough to pour on him.

Bo: Yeah, it created a long pause between hers and mine. 

Kind of like looking for a condom when you’re already ‘in the moment?’
Christina: Ha. Anyway, it feels better when the wax is really hot! I have to say though, it was the best massage he’s ever given me! The texture was amazing, which emphasized the relaxation of the massage.

Bo: The quality of the oil is genius. It’s the perfect texture… not too slippery, not too dry. 

How was the sex after the massage?
Christina: The sex was great, but it didn’t have anything to do with the oil (hee hee).

Did it turn you on?
Bo: Yeah, when I was massaging her butt, it really turned me on!

Christina: I get professional massages all the time, so I usually don't view them as a sexual thing. But the oil from the candle is relaxing for a massage; like Robert said, it’s the perfect texture.

So how did you translate from massage to sex?
Christina: I felt so relaxed from the massage that I wasn’t ready to jump right into sex. 

Would you say it was a good form of foreplay?
Christina: Well, maybe a foreplay for the foreplay. But really, I was so mellow that I wasn’t ready to jump into rough play.

Bo: I did feel a little relaxed and tired after my massage, and was like “we have to have sex now?”

Christina: I’d have to say that it was really nice to extend the entire intimacy period though, and spend more time just being with each other.

Bo: Agreed. 

How was the scent?
Christina: The scent we had wasn’t that sexy. I’d prefer something more musky, flowery, or even lavender is sexier than grapefruit! I got a little grossed out… it tasted horrible.

Bo: There should definitely be an edible aphrodisiac candle! It got all over my face and everything else. I was worried that it would get inside her, so I rinsed off before sex.

So if you could suggest an improvement, you would recommend an edible, internal-friendly massage candle oil that’s ok for both mouths?
Both: Yes!

~Aliya Naumoff

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Denim Road-Test: LTB
Apollo Sunshine
Gets Randy (And Debbie)

If the members of Boston band Apollo Sunshine have a musical style, it’s their proud refusal to pick one. Having met at the Berklee College of Music, songwriters Sam Cohen and Jesse Gallagher and drummer Jeremy Black can nail any style from hillbilly ditties and Beatles-esque pop to psychedelic freakout -- sometimes in the same song. 

And if they have no easily-labeled sound, they also have no collective fashion sense. “Damn, I don’t know,” says Jeremy when he’s asked about his personal style, finally admitting to an affinity for Western-style snap-button shirts. Sam, amused to be discussing his thrift-shop dress habits, calls his look “kinda dirty musician.” And the lanky, bearded Jesse warns that he’s not exactly a “Project Runway” kind of guy. “I’m pretty finicky about pants,” he says, by which he means that he has just two pair he actually wears, both tattered, nondescript OshKosh B’Gosh work pants.  

Getting these guys into matching LTB jeans was nearly as chaotic as the group’s uncategorizable sound. After two albums for spinART – the 2003 debut “Katonah” and a thrilling, self-titled followup, released last year – the band may be on the verge of putting together a significant breakthrough. But they still can’t get their addresses straight. Sam, who grew up in Houston, recently moved to the Clinton Hill neighborhood of Brooklyn. Meanwhile, Jeremy is relocating to San Francisco to live with his girlfriend. She’s a DJ on local radio; when Apollo Sunshine did an appearance in nearby San Jose, “she did the stage announcement,” he explains. “It was love at first sight.”

Oddly, it was Jesse, the one band member still in Boston, who had the most difficulty getting his jeans. Forgetting to include his apartment number with his address, the package sat at the post office for days. Sam, a compact guy who says he typically wears a ladies’ size 6 – “the ones that have the shorter crotch areas” – was initially reluctant to wear the 32-inch inseam ‘Debbie’ that he got from LTB, the premium Turkish company that wants to replicate its considerable overseas success in the States. After a few days, however, he cut them off.

“I didn’t have a pair of dark ones like this,” he says. “Mine are all stained with motor oil and stuff, and I really needed some clean pants. I wore them to the bank today.”

So… ? He’s surprised to find he’s comfortable in the jeans, with one caveat – he’s not a big fan of the brand’s conspicuous crab logo. “It’s a little silver trinket,” he reports. “It reminds me of something a fancy woman would wear.”

But Jeremy, the drummer, is fine with it: “Nothing cheesy,” he says. He wore his ‘Randy’ LTBs over a three-day weekend back in his old stomping grounds, including a gig at Boston University.

“They fit real well. I definitely like them,” he says. “I like that they’re a little stretchy. After three days, they were way more comfortable.”

Though most of his jeans tend to be Levi’s or Gap, he says he has dabbled in high-end denim too. “I have one pair of Lucky Brand. I had some Diesels, but I wore them out.”

For Jeremy, the deciding factor is a familiar one: His girlfriend says he looks good in his ‘Randy’ LTBs. “Her opinion matters more than mine,” he says.

As for Jesse, well, there’s no telling whether he’s ready for a wardrobe upgrade. A followup call to his cell phone got his voicemail message, which featured a snippet of some fine old Jamaican soul from Toots and the Maytals.

“We’re listening to a more diverse mix than ever,” says Sam, who adds that the band expects to begin recording a new album after the first of the year. “It’s a process of taking the parts we like, and then seeing what’s compatible.”

Just like putting together an outfit.

~James Sullivan
Author of “Jeans: A Cultural History of an American Icon.” 

Get Yours:

LTB Jeans’, LTB, Randy, $88, and Debbie, $88, are available at LTB Jeans, 494 Broadway, NY, (212) 219-0881, and other Little Big Jeans retailers around the world.

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Halloween Road Test: NIGHTMARE Haunted House
Freak Show of New York’s Most Prolific Phobias

The Halloween season is a good time to face your deepest fears --  at least, according to the slightly perverted minds behind New York’s third annual NIGHTMARE Haunted House.  The brains are those of acclaimed Off-Broadway theatre director Timothy Haskell and his Psychoclan – an amalgam of designers and… well, psychos.  Their plan: to scare you into oblivion. 

 In preparation for their five-borough freak-fest, Haskell and his cohorts polled thousands of New Yorkers on their phobias.  They then created 13 elaborately decorated rooms in each ‘house’ to represent the most popular fears - Coulrophobia (fear of clowns) and Entomophobia (fear of insects) included. 

Seeing as the event seemed right up our alley, we enlisted the help of Lower East Side-based photographer Aliya Naumoff to test out her local NIGHTMARE at the CSV Cultural Center.  Sure, she holds up fine on (occasionally hellish) worldwide shoots with celebs and rock stars, but can she handle facing her worst fear?  In her own words:

I had no idea what to expect. After having a beer at the cozy bar, my two friends and I were called upon by a man with a headset. As we waited in line, a cute young blonde boy with an accent (Swiss?) came up to us and asked if we wanted another drink. He assured us that it might ease our pain. We declined because we wanted to be fairly coherent for the nightmarish adventure we were about to embark on.

After entering the first room it became clear the room wasn’t getting any bigger. The man in front began by telling us there were 7 exits if we needed to escape, and an ambulance waiting outside. He also mentioned that 5 people in the last 3 days utilized those facilities, mostly fueled by panic attacks and fears. 

Without giving away what lay ahead, the haunted house is based on a study conducted about thousands of New Yorkers’ worst fears. It really is the closest I’ve ever come to being in an actual horror film. I have to admit I’m a pretty fearless person. I can jump off a 50-foot cliff into water, but from the beginning, the little girl stuck in her bedroom with a surgeon coming through her window scenario really freaked me out. Some of it was funny because you know that you’re amongst other likeminded people. But if I had a private solitary visit through the house for the first time, I’d die! Really, if I were aimlessly wandering through the small dark corridors without the safety of grabbing onto my friend’s leather jacket, I’d shit myself. 

Advice for the lovers out there, it’s a great place to take a date. You’ll feel more connected to your partner than you would in bed. It’s survival. At one point, my friend and I took a side entrance to a long smoky hot room with a bloody butcher at the end of the table. He was screaming for us to put our hands on the table. We kept looking around for the others, and eventually they piled in. But in those first 5 seconds when it was just he and I in the room, I felt enormously connected to him.

I also recommend to the fearless heading in first. The buried-alive room was much more effective when there were only a few people in the room. Where is everyone else? Will they be buried too or did they take a detour?

After exiting I wanted more, but felt satisfied that I could go back to the bar for a glass of wine, and buy a rubber stress ball filled with bloody maggots.

And one more thing, I wouldn’t recommend it for kids-under-12. As I was leaving I saw a little girl (about 10 yrs old) screaming and crying as she ran out, gripping her father’s hand.

See It:

Nightmare Haunted House at the CVS Cultural Center, 107 Suffolk Street, (212) 260-4080 www.hauntedhousenyc.com

Recommended bar afterwards: Barramundi, 67 Clinton Street, (212) 529-6900

For more from Aliya Naumoff, check out aliyanaumoff.com

Fourth photo courtesy of Aliya Naumoff


Click above to watch QuickTime (18 MB)

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Vodka Road Test: Tito’s Handmade Vodka
The Saturday Knights Give Austin’s Homegrown Booze A Try

When thinking of vodka, a blur of references may rush to mind: the most common being one of a few regions in central Europe, or maybe just a potato.  But a man named Tito, armed with a micro-distillery in Austin, TX, is out to change all that. 

Word on the street is that Tito’s Handmade Vodka is “a homegrown symphonic spirit to applaud.”  No wonder it’s big with country-cult icon Willie Nelson. (Not to mention, a bottle or two can be found within the frames of the recent big-hit indie-film Factotum with Matt Dillon.)

Seattle’s own homegrown hip-hop noblemen, The Saturday Knights, feature sloppily sexy, low-income-poet-laureate MCs Tilson and Barfly, the music encyclopedia DJ Suspence, and multi-instrumentalist B-Web. And the latter three like to drink -- a lot. So we caught up with them live at the High Dive in Seattle, and had them road-test the Texan epicurean potato juice that is unlike any other.

Tilson doesn’t drink alcohol, but Barfly (there’s a surprise), Spence and Brian were more than happy to oblige.  At t-minus 30 minutes to show time, the results in their own words:

BARFLY:
Whoa! You had me at Tito's. 

[The drinks couldn’t be poured fast enough fast enough. Soon enough all the other entertainers backstage were gathered around. One of the concert promoters came back with rounds of Patron, which were quickly waved away in anticipation of Tito's Vodka.] Upon first taste:

B-WEB:
(With a sour look on his face) It was better than deodorant.

DJ SUSPENSE:
Slightly.

BARFLY:
I'm not sure it's not gin.

B-WEB:
(slapping the back of his neck) I feel weird.

BARFLY:
It reminds me of the first time I stole gas.

B-WEB:
Why don't GOP congressman use bookmarks? They prefer bent-over pages.

Score Cards:

BARFLY:
4-stars. If this is really 80 proof, everyone else is lying.

DJ SUSPENSE:
(when asked for a rating) Of what... flammability?

B-WEB:
3-stars. Don't feel bad; all vodkas are a 3 to me.

~Chris Estey

Taste It:

For more on Tito’s Handmade Vodka, titoshandmadevodka.com

Hear It:

For more on the Saturday Knights, thesaturdayknights.com

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Denim Road-Test: Silver Jeans
Doom Has His Day

Making your acting debut in cult-favorite director Quentin Tarantino’s new flick can do wonders for your cinematic career.  Not only that, it can vastly improve your wardrobe.  Just ask Omar Doom, the New York City-based man of myriad talents whose denim collection just got a little thicker.  

Doom is fresh from the gates of hell – specifically Northern Austin, Texas, where Tarantino is shooting Death Proof, his half of a horror double-feature with Robert Rodriguez called Grind House, set to release next spring.  Based out of New York City, Doom has also been writing, recording and performing locally with his band, Alister Doomington, for nearly two years.  

Traveling, acting, performing and squeezing in some fun, Doom is in constant flux.  So when it comes to fashion, denim proves the most versatile way to stay fresh and look dapper during his adventures. So, we set Doom up with a pair of Silver Jeans, a Canadian company known for its comfortable, yet stylish fits and washes. 

In the midst of filming down South, and spending a few days at home in New York, Doom took some time to test-drive Silver Jeans. In his own words: 

So, Omar, what’d you think of the jeans?
I was a bit apprehensive when you first came to me, because I’m very particular about my jeans. Once I find the right pair of jeans, I just wear ‘em all the time, everyday, I mean sometimes I don’t even change! Just kidding. I’m the kind of guy who just wears jeans everyday. I’m really rough with my clothing. My clothes need to hold up. However, there’s an elegance to this denim -- it has a raw sensibility to it.  Yeah, and I do wear a lot of black…

How would you say these jeans fit into your traveling lifestyle?
For instance, I have to go to an airport three hours from now. I only wear really comfortable jeans or pants when I get on a plane and I’m definitely going to wear these jeans on the plane. They take care of everything; they look cool and they’re really relaxed. They’re versatile -- I can wear them while traveling, to a function or on stage. I’m going to three or four events next week and I’ll probably wear ‘em to each one! 

What was it like to spend a “night out” in them?
I went out to this bar called LIT in the East Village on a Friday night. Throughout the evening, I felt really comfortable in them. When I first put them on, I said to myself, “Wow, these jeans are awesome! They’re so comfortable, I’m about to go to sleep in them!”

Let’s be frank here – you’re also in the band, and most musicians are very particular about what they wear on stage.  What do you really think of the cut, style and wash?
They look really cool and I love how they fit. I really like the dye of the jeans too, because it’s a cool black-grey. I been looking for a pair of black jeans to wear onstage now for awhile. Now, let’s get serious here, I mean when you’re on stage and all, breathe-ability and move-ability is key. I can show off my rock-star moves!

Are they easy to take off as well?
I haven’t had ‘the test’ of having them ripped off me yet, but I think there’s a great placement of distance from the button to the zipper. It makes it very easy for a girl if she’s looking to really get them off! 

~Jessica McMenamin

Get Yours:

Silver’s Gage Jean, Antique Black Wash, $85, silverjeans.com

See It:

Omar Doom in Quentin Tarantino and Robert Rodriguez’s Grind House next spring.

Alister Doomington Play R&R in New York City, October 28th, 10pm, 416 W. 14th St, (212) 675-1661, randrnyc.com

For more info on Alister Doomington, myspace.com/alisterdoomington

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Restaurant Road-Test: A Voce
Secret Machines Take a Bite

After years of touring the globe for their two full-length albums (Now Here is Nowhere released in 2004 and, more recently, Ten Silver Drops earlier this year), Secret Machines have tasted it all.  From fine French wines to the traditional “meat pits” of Greece, the NYC-based trio Benjamin Curtis, Brandon Curtis and Josh Garza have consumed just about everything on any menu.

So, what better judges to dine and critique the new gourmet Italian restaurant A Voce, in New York? When the invite to test the Madison Square Park eatery arrived days before embarking on yet another international tour, the band was happy to oblige.  

A Voce’s ambiance is elegantly warm and comforting – just like its food, which was carefully crafted by the skillful chef, Andrew Carmellini. In 2005 Carmellini won the James Beard Foundation’s Best Chef: New York City award during his last months at Café Boulud. A Voce’s menu, says Carmellini, is “inspired by the spirit of seasonal simplicity in Italian cooking.”

Secret Machines tasted everything -- from roasted beet salad and autumn ravioli, to savory duck meatballs, and donuts with chocolate sauce.  Below, their take on A Voce, in their own words: 

Benjamin Curtis:
“As bands go out and have dinner, usually on other people -- record labels for example -- we get taken to a lot of dinners. Tonight, they served donuts with chocolate sauce for dessert and that was really decadent. I thought I’d never eat a donut with chocolate sauce, but I did tonight! It was incredibly delicious! Rewinding to the beginning of the meal, I had a duck meatball -- it was really well-prepared. The whole meal was extremely light, that is until the donuts and chocolate sauce came. I’m glad I had it, because now I feel like I’ve really eaten! The worst thing about being on tour and eating is that there isn’t a schedule to eat. You may have one nice meal a day. You can’t eat too early and you can’t eat too late because it’s too close to show time. It’s this constant struggle with your constitution to make yourself eat. You want to have a really nice meal, but if you’re going to have it, it has to be at 4:00pm, or otherwise, you’re going to eat at 1:00AM. One thing that happens a lot on tour as well is that you drink a lot of beer – there’s always beer in the backstage area. Tonight we had beer gelato at A Voce and it was really, really good. I don’t think I’ll ever be the same!” 

Josh Garza:
“There’s an incredible wine list. I’m a very particular white-wine drinker, so when the sommelier came over selected the Falengini for me, I was impressed. I liked the Spaghetti all’ Amatriciana -- it was good, spicy, it had some meat in it. The Polenta Fries were interesting; it was like ‘whoa, what’s this?’ I think the incredible part about A Voce is that it wasn’t heavy and rigid in feeling; it was really light. The beet salad was good. The duck meatballs were incredible. The potato gnocchi al ragu was really good. For the first time in my life I had good gnocchi.”

Brandon Curtis:
“It was all awesome. When we came in, everyone was really cool to us and made us feel comfortable. Matt, one of the chefs, came out and said hello to us, which was very nice. The duck meatballs were amazing. The bass tartare next to the duck meatballs, I don’t think you can put them in the same league, but they were great together! Because the meatballs felt like, ‘wow, we’re taking over the world’ and then the bass was more subtle and smooth. The gnocchi made me feel like I was at home; it’s ground beef, it was awesome! It was warming and comforting.”

~Jessica McMenamin

Eat it:

A Voce, 41 Madison Avenue, New York, (212) 545-8555, avocerestaurant.com

Hear It

Secret Machines play Higher Ground, 8pm, October 6th, 1214 Williston Rd, South Burlington, VT, (802) 652-0777, highergroundmusic.com

For more on Secret Machines, including current tour dates, check out:

thesecretmachines.com and myspace.com/secretmachines

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Fragrance Road-Test: Sexy Beast
Musician Jonathan Pierce Does Some Animal Testing

It’s no secret that dogs are no stranger to high-end retail scenes. Just stroll up Madison Avenue on a weekday afternoon and witness the canine parade: lavishly fluffy Siberian Huskies, trembling little Chihuahuas, aloof Shiba Inus. But despite the fanciness, the days of dumb doggy dressing have become passé. Au natural is more chic – after all, that Husky’s coat is as nice as a Michael Kors.

Instead, the most stylish dogs are wearing something else – perfume. In particular, Sexy Beast, a new high-end line of dog grooming products (including the namesake fragrance), masterminded by Renee Ryan, marketer of heavy-hitting perfumes by Vera Wang and John Varvatos. It made a splash debut at New York Fashion Week earlier this month.The fragrance is made to be shared by you and your pooch. Sexy Beast products were made by Givaudan (creator of tons of top-flight frags like Thierry Mugler’s “Angel”), in consultation with the Cornell School Of Veterinary Medicine. They’re chemical and paraben-free, completely vegan, and made with absolutely no animal products and no animal testing. They’re safe for all breeds. Sexy Beast fragrance is a blend of bergamot and vanilla-infused musk with patchouli, mandarin and nutmeg oils. (Ancillary products in the line include a cleanser, powder, and gloss, and are also gentle and plant-based.) And it even looks good standing still – the bottle, a rubbery-feeling upstanding brown bone, is created by Karim Rashid

To test it out, we enlisted Jonathan Pierce, former member of Elkland, who has recently teamed up with Jacob Graham to form synth-pop duo, Goat Explosion. Pierce and a friend share ownership of a precocious Labradoodle named Manji. How did the hypo-allergenic, heavily-bred canine enjoy its perfume day? Below, some quick first impressions:

Why did you choose such a unique breed – a labradoodle?It’s a specially engineered dog that doesn’t shed.  It’s perfect for people with allergies to dogs.  And I didn’t want the hair all over my clothes.  

What did you think of Sexy Beast?
Very cool.  I love the bottle. 

What did you think of the smell?
It’s nice.  And Manji didn’t seem to mind. 

Did the other dogs seem to notice?
Coco, our dachshund, and the model in the family, kept jumping up into the spray.  She liked it much better than Manji. 

Did they sneeze?
No

Sniff It:

Sexy Beast Fragrance, 3.4oz/$65, sexybeaststyle.com for buying and other info

More on Pierce and Goat Explosion: myspace.com/goatexplosion

Interview by Daniele Kim

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Food Road-Test: BAMN! Automat
Trash & Vaudeville’s Jimmy Webb Gives It Four Stars

When the last of New York’s coin-operated automats closed its doors in 1991, it was met with some nostalgia, but no great sorrow. By that time, the idea of eating a chicken pot pie from a vending machine seemed pretty gross. Back in the day, though, it was all the rage. When Horn & Hardart, America’s first chain of automats, opened its doors near Union Square in the summer of 1912, it transformed the way Americans ate, by offering them a ‘fast-food’ option. By the mid-‘20s, the automat, featured in musicals, frequented by Hollywood actors, and forever memorialized in a Hopper painting, had become a major part of pop culture. 

Last month, the automat returned to Manhattan. Given the name BAMN!, the hot-pink, standing-room-only space on St. Marks is an updated, semi-Asian variation of the original. Opened by restaurant newcomers David Leong and Robert Kwak, who enlisted Chef Kevin Reilly of The Water Club after he reportedly answered a Craigslist ad for the best croquette recipe, it offers a variety of vending-machine goodies from hot dogs and grilled cheese to teriyaki burgers and roasted pork buns. Nothing is over $2.50 in quarters (they provide a change-machine) -- and drinks, ice cream and Belgian frites, which come with a choice of 30 different dipping sauces, can be purchased at the counter. Given the fact that it’s open 24 hours a day, BAMN! might just be the best 2am drunken pitstop in NYC. 

“It’s cheap, it’s quick, it’s pink – you can’t go wrong with pink – it rocks,” says Jimmy Webb, manager of the punk-rock retail institution Trash & Vaudeville, located right across the street. Oddly, though, until we brought him a bag-load of BAMN! food to road-test, he had yet to try it out. Here, Webb, a vegetarian with an apparent fine palette, offers his critique: 

On the Peanut Butter & Jelly Croquettes:“PB& J rocks – it’s all-American. This one is awesome. It’s like a normal sandwich, but toasted. It kinda tastes like grandma made it.” 

On the Belgian Fries and Wasabi Mayo:“The fries rock. The sauce – I love it. Wasabi is awesome when you have a cold.”

On the Spam Musubi:“I don’t even want to touch it. It doesn’t even smell okay. Spam sushi? I don’t think so. It weighs a ton too. Feel it. It’s like the kind of food you find in a ghetto – a white man’s ghetto upstate. It’s totally nuts. Andy Warhol should have painted it.”

On the Mozzarella Sticks:“These are no better or worse than what you get anywhere else. Warm and toasty. Total classic.”

On the Grilled Cheese:“It tastes like the regular old grilled cheese you get at Dojo’s.”

On the Mac & Cheese Croquette:“This is an odd idea. It’s totally a drunk’s food. It tastes better than Kraft’s, but it’s probably very constipating. It’s like low-budget grandma’s.”

On the Japanese Doughnuts:“This looks like a greaseball. It tastes just like fried dough. It’s one of those things where one is okay, two will make you sick.”

On the Roasted Pork Buns:“It looks good, but I won’t eat it cuz it’s pork.”

On the Hot Dog:“I can’t eat this either, but I appreciate the croissant-like Pillsbury bun. It looks like the food at Tupperware parties. Not that I go to Tupperware parties, but I’ve seen the food.”


Click above to watch QuickTime (17 MB)

Get It:

BAMN!, 37 St Marks Place (btwn 2nd & 3rd Aves), NYC; (212) 358-7685; bamnfood.com

Trash & Vaudeville, 4 St. Marks Place (212) 982-3590

Photos and video by Alisa Gould-Simon

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Auto Road-Test: Vespa Granturismo
DJ Stretch Armstrong
Gets His Scoot On

For over a decade, Stretch Armstrong has been regarded in DJ culture as a ground-breaking act. Back in the ‘90s, his Columbia University radio show was notorious for launching rappers’ careers, including those of Biggie Smalls, Nas, and Wu-Tang Clan, who all came on to freestyle. Now, Stretch can be seen and heard DJing around the world, and every Wednesday night at NYC mega-club Marquee

But these days, you won’t spot him lugging around four cases of vinyl in the trunks of taxis. Serato Scratch Live software and his new Ferrari Red 250cc Vespa Scooter have changed everything. All he has to do is jump on, computer in hand, and he’s off to play anywhere within the five boroughs. Having recently started a band called Alister Doomington, Stretch can also take his bass guitar to band practice at a moment’s notice. Best of all, though, is the visual: A lanky, 6-foot-5 fella straddling a racy-red scooter and riding it like a banshee though the city’s streets. Here, the road warrior takes a minute out to discuss the benefits of owning one:

Tell us about your whip.
“It’s the Granturismo – it’s a ‘touring Vespa’. The wheels are bigger. Engine-wise, it’s the biggest, fastest and most powerful Vespa. I’ve had it up to almost 95mph on a flat decline.” 

Why did you get it?
“I’ve always wanted to have a motorcycle and I’m an aggressive driver, but I don’t want to die. I think getting a motorcycle would be a foolish thing, plus it’d give my mother a heart attack and make my Dad sleepless, which is not an easy feat. When I was in Europe, I was admiring the Vespas. Then they came out with the 250cc fuel-injected ones. About a week later I bought one.”

Any white-knuckle experiences thus far?
“I had to get to the studio in Allentown, Pennsylvania, because I’d promised the rest of the band I’d be there. So I said to myself, ‘I’m going to take the Vespa [from New York City]…why not? Let’s do it.’ So, I did it! Man, that shit was a fucking workout! Let me tell you something, when I got there, I was shivering! This was a warm day too. I was so weather-beaten from having 80mph winds going through me for two hours. It’s rough. You’ve got to wear a lot of shit; layers of gloves and leather jacket. When I went, I had on a leather jacket, a T-shirt underneath, nothing around my neck and no gloves. But I was into it, man! I was passing cars; I was drafting tractor trailers! I got there in under two hours, but when I arrived I had to de-thaw.”

What’s the best thing about your Vespa?
“I can get so much more stuff done during the day. It’s not a pain-in-the-ass to take meetings and do errands. I get ten times as much stuff done with my Vespa than my truck.”

Your truck?
“It was a complete gas-guzzler. That’s just wrong on so many levels. Parking was a bitch and I’d get tickets. Yet, I loved the freedom of going anywhere I wanted at any time. I used it as ‘a get my records to the club/party truck.’ It was fun. Then I gave it up.”

So it seems the Vespa’s given you more freedom.
It’s really exciting driving through neighborhoods and not being in a car. Being able to move through them and check them out! It’s a totally different vantage point. You can stop and if you see something you want to check out or see someone you know…stop…talk to them. It makes getting around, doing the things we have to do everyday, which might not be that fun, more enjoyable.”

~Jessica McMenamin

Get One:

Vespa Granturismo, around $5,800, vespausa.com

Hear Stretch’s band: myspace.com/alisterdoomington

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Denim Road-Test: True Warrior
Surface To Air’s Daniel Jackson Breaks In Some Samurais

As one of three masterminds behind the influential, in-demand graphic studio/design collective Surface To Air, Daniel Jackson is always busy doing Big Things. Like: Producing a Hello Kitty crop circle for Sanrio on a farm outside Stonehenge. Shredding 180 pairs of Adidas Samoas and reassembling them into classic chairs such as Mies van der Rohe’s Barcelona or Le Corbusier’s Grand Comfort. Designing the cover of The Stills’ new album. Creating the interior of BBlessing, the dapper man’s streetwear boutique on the LES. And, as he was doing on a sunny morning several days before Fashion Week, silk-screening prints onto paper-thin jersey for one of New York’s most celebrated designers. (He didn’t want to disclose who until after the show.) All this, while producing Surface To Air’s own presentation of their women’s sportswear label, Estuay. “There’s a lot going on,” he admits, offering a weak smile.

But perhaps one of his biggest projects, at least in the eyes of denimheads, has been the 2-year-plus process of breaking in a pair of 19-ounce Samurai jeans (the average jean sold in the U.S. is between 10 and 13 ounces). “They were like leather pants when I bought them,” he says. 

Here, he takes time out to discuss what’s become his favorite pair of pants: 

What did you originally like about the Samurais?
“I think the idea of wearing heavy, unwashed denim is nice. They’re really durable. And there’s an authenticity to it. There are so many denim brands that do all this pre-washing and silly treatments – it’s just retarded. It’s so much better when it’s natural. When you break it in yourself. Then they become the most comfortable things ever. It’s so much more meaningful.” 

Where did you get them?
“A store in Tokyo. I can’t remember the name, but I go every time I’m there. It’s in the Shibuya district.” 

How often do you wear them?
“Everyday to do everything for the past 2 1/2 years, except sleep. I ride my bike in them. Everything. I have to take them to the tailor every two weeks to have them fixed. The pockets have been re-lined, patches have been put in. I’ve blown out the knee, worn away the back pockets. They’re really nasty. They have stains – and are pretty much multi-colored.”

Your girlfriend lets you sit on the couch in them?
“Not really. We were at a wedding last weekend and she put her head in my lap, and was like ‘Aww, these stink!’ She’s in London right now and she made me promise I’d have them cleaned before she got back. I get them dry-cleaned once a month.”

What do you wear when they’re at the cleaners?
“A pair of jeans from Nom De Guerre. I also have a pair of Levi’s that I bought just because they were 50 bucks.”

~Karin Nelson

Get It:

Samurai jeans, around $280, at Blue In Green, 8 Greene St., NYC, (212) 680-0555; blueingreensoho.com

For a good jeans tailor, Jackson recommends Prince St. Cleaners, 26 Prince St., NYC, (212) 274-0245

For more on Surface To Air, surface2air.com.

Check out their store in Paris, 46 rue de l’Arbre Sec, 75001; +33 1 49 27 04 54

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Food Road-Test: Max Brenner Chocolates
The Bald Man Sweetens Sue Stemp’s Week

When Kate Moss decides to wear one of your designs (namely, a diaphanous lime-green halter dress) to something as important as her 30th-birthday luncheon, you’re undoubtedly going to get attention: “Sue Stemp is going to be our most talked-about designer during New York Fashion Week,” proclaimed British Vogue on their website last week about the English-bred, Manhattan-based designer of the above dress. It doesn’t hurt that Stemp, who worked her creative magic at Ghost, Tocca, Daryl K and Alexander McQueen before launching her own line of smart, saucy sportswear last season, also designed model/British ‘It’ girl Rosemary Ferguson’s pleated, spaghetti-strap wedding gown last year. 

With all eyes watching her and two weeks until her fashion show, we figured it was a perfect time to send in some chocolate. Did we mention Stemp is 8 months pregnant? In circumstances like these, no ordinary chocolate will do.

Earlier this month, Israel’s sweetest (and possibly strangest) creation, Max Brenner -- whose tagline is “Chocolate From the Bald Man” -- opened its first New York outpost, a Willy Wonka-ish brasserie in Union Square. On the menu: chocolate pizza, chocolate waffle balls, a chocolate bagel “just like mama used to make you,” and an expansive variety of choco bon-bons – all of which we sent to Stemp’s studio. 

PP: It just occurred to us you may not like chocolate.

SS: “I love chocolate, preferably with a cup of tea in the afternoon, daily. We all have a tea-and-chocolate break in the studio. Being English, I’m a Cadbury fan, particularly Dairy Milk or Bounty. Although I do like Belgian pralines with champagne, but that’s a whole different thing.”

PP: Being pregnant, have you had crazy cravings?

SS: “Unfortunately, I haven’t. I was really looking forward to pickles with ice cream and sardines. I am eating more chocolate than usual, though. Chocolate croissants for breakfast with chocolate milk are my start to the day now!”

PP: Perfect. Are you familiar with Max Brenner chocolate?

SS: “Not until today, I hadn’t heard of them. Very impressive packaging, and they’re imaginative with their selection. Never seen a bagel filled with hot chocolate cream in my life!””

PP: How did the treats taste?

SS: “I was shocked by the warm chocolate pizza! To be honest, I found that a bit on the heavy side. My favorites were the dainty chocolate candies, in particular the praline with roasted coconut. The studio favorite was definitely the bag of white chocolate and coconut waffle balls. They all disappeared in seconds.”

PP: Will you visit the shop in Union Square?

SS: “If I was in the area, yes. Maybe before going to see a film.”

PP: Give us a hint of what we’ll see at your show.

SS: “It’s loosely inspired by the idea of time travel, starting off in an Elizabethan court and traveling into the future. Orlando -- more the Sally Potter film than the book -- and Derek Jarman’s Jubilee were both an inspiration behind the collection. It’s historical, yet modern at the same time.”

Go There:

Max Brenner, 841 Broadway, NYC, (212) 388-0030; maxbrenner.com

For more on Sue Stemp: suestemp.com

First Chocolate photo courtesy of Alisa Gould-Simon

Sue Stemp photo courtesy of Seth Wolfson

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Beverage Road-Test: Shock Coffee
Hyper-Caffeinating The Music Industry

Just over a week ago, The New York Times hailed coffee as a potential health drink, as recent studies have shown it may reduce risks of everything from Type 2 diabetes to cirrhosis of the liver. Great. Bring on the brew. Apparently, the folks at Shock Coffee, a recently launched Queens-based brand that specializes in individually packaged pep, were thinking the same thing.

While one cup of coffee typically contains a paltry 100mg of caffeine, a can of Shock Triple Latte manages to pack in 160mg – twice the amount of caffeine in a Red Bull. Their slogan? “Sleep is overrated.”

We figure Shock’s approach is either ingenious, or merely going to incite an epidemic of jittery java-heads.  So, who better to road-test it than the members of the music industry, whose lives revolve around late-night shows, and never-ending after-parties. 

We rounded up a crew of sleep-deprived music vets at a recent East Village Radio/Fader Magazine party, and loaded them with all the caffeine they could handle. Cans of Triple Mochas were tossed back like shots of Jack, Shock-a-Lots (chocolate-covered coffee beans -- a small bag of which equals 2.5 cups of coffee) were gobbled like beer-nuts.

Here’s what they had to say: 

Charlotte Froom, Bassist for The Like, on Shock Triple Mocha:
“It’s really yummy – tastes like a Frappacino.  I could only drink half of it though.  If I drank the whole thing I’d be totally out of it.  I’m feeling something…I don’t know what it is, but I’m totally into it.”

Tennessee Thomas, Drummer for The Like, on Shock Triple Mocha:
“Eww. I don’t like it.  It’s too strong.”

Echo, Manager of East Village Radio on Shock-a-Lots:
“They remind me of peanut M&Ms. I don’t really feel anything though.”

Andrew & Andrew, DJs, on Shock-A-Lots:
“I like that the packaging is clear – you can see what you’re getting into; although, a surprise might also be interesting. The yellow and red color combo is a little boring. The bag almost looks like something you’d find at a Ukranian grocer. Using neon would have been better, more shocking. And they taste a little bitter. Is there sugar in them? Can I have another one? I’m feeling something, but I’m not sure what it is. I think I’d rather just have a cup of coffee. They should sell it as a powder, so you snort it like cocaine – that would be interesting.”

Alex Wagner, Executive Editor of Fader, on Shock-A-Lots:
“I stopped drinking coffee a couple years ago – caffeine just started messing me. But, I’ll try these anyway. They taste good. I almost thought it was a peanut M&M. I don’t feel anything, but I also have four slices of pizza sitting in my stomach.”

Brain McPeck, Lead Singer of ARE Weapons, on Shock-A-Lots:
"It feels like the beans are brewing in my stomach."

psychoPEDIA & EVR presented The Like DJing live in the EVR soundbooth Wednesday August 23rd from 4-6pm; to take a listen check out eastvillageradio.com

Get Yours:

For more info and retail locations, Shockcoffee.com.

24 pack of 8-ounce Shock Coffee Triple Mocha or Shock Coffee Triple Latte cans, $32.50, amazon.com

The Like, ilikethelike.com

ARE Weapons, areweapons.com

Fader Magazine, thefader.com

Andrew & Andrew andrewandrew.org

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Denim Road-Test: Kicking Mule
Golden Boy James Franco Gets Comfortable

There are various ways a young actor can stand out from the pack – be unbelievably good-looking, win a Golden Globe (bonus points if it’s for playing someone who’s also unbelievably good-looking, like James Dean), star in nearly 30 films by the time you’re 28, earn a reputation as a consummate professional who pays meticulous attention to character detail, get the stamp of approval from DeNiro. 

James Franco has them all covered. The fact that the former UCLA student, who studied acting to overcome shyness, is also a painter (he had a recent exhibit called “Waz zup?” at Glu Gallery in L.A.), writes screenplays (“Good Time Max”-- which he wrote, directed, and stars in -- just finished shooting), plays the guitar (his old flame Marla Sokoloff taught him, awww), and can fly planes (he got his pilot’s license before filming the WW1 Air Force drama “Flyboys”), is just icing on the beefcake.

Critics have called Franco a “ticking time-bomb;” he’s called himself an “artsy loner.” We just called him. Will you do a denim road-test for us? Regardless of the fact that he’s been busy in Toronto shooting a romantic comedy (not engaging in a love affair) with Sienna Miller, he said ‘sure.’ (Note: he’s also an overachiever, who reportedly doesn’t like to sleep because “there’s too much to do.”)

We sent him a pair of raw Japanese selvedge, straight-leg Kicking Mule Workshop jeans, figuring they’d fit perfectly into his 1950s-classic-manly-man way of dressing. Alas, we discovered Franco’s Achilles Heel: “I don’t think I can be articulate about my denim,” he warned us by Blackberry.

“Since I’m not the biggest shopper, my answers will be pretty bad,” he added. “I’ve never heard of the brand before.” Well, no biggie, we told him. They’re a pretty small label.  But what did you think of them?

“They’re stiff and hard to break in… but sturdy and comfortable,” he responded. “I’ve been wearing them around Toronto, and to the Roosevelt [Hotel] to hang out. I usually wear them with tennis shoes and T-shirts.” True enough, several days later, paparazzi pics surfaced showing Franco walking around Toronto with Sienna Miller, looking a little stiff but kinda comfortable in his Kicking Mule jeans, white T-shirt, and New Balance sneakers. And, although he hates to shop, it looks, in one of the photos, like Franco was nice enough to accompany Miller on her spree.

Get Them:

For more info on Kicking Mule Workshop, including a list of stores where they’re sold: kickingmuleworkshop.com

Check out Franco next in “Flyboys,” set to release the end of September.

Find Franco at The Roosevelt and tell him the jeans look good; 7000 Hollywood Blvd, Hollywood, (323) 466-7000; hollywoodroosevelt.com

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Auto Road-Test: Mini Cooper
Gilles Mendel Falls for a Vintage Cooper

It takes a big man to trade in a massive Benz for a Mini Cooper. Here, Gilles Mendel, the designer and CEO of J. Mendel, explains why he’s driving around town wearing a big smile. In his own words:

“I’m not so much of a big-car fan. But I’m very nostalgic and sentimental about things. My mother always had a little Mini Cooper in Paris. And, since I was young, I had one in Paris, too. It’s the perfect car to drive there. When my mother passed away a few years ago, I felt I needed something to put me in a Parisian mood. I thought it would be great to have a Mini Cooper in New York City. 

“At the time, I had a huge Mercedes-Benz 600, with a driver. I thought it was very chic. The car was a monster; it could seat 20 people. I treated myself in having this luxury. I’m a driver fanatic, not a car fanatic. But I went through like 7 or 8 drivers. One didn’t like to wash the car, one was a terrible driver. It was more trouble finding the right driver than running my company of 100 people. I realized dealing with the car and driver was such a waste of time, and not very useful. So I decided to get rid of them. And I thought, ‘What a thrill it would be to have a Mini.’

“I went on the Web and it drove me to fan sites. Finally, I located a website called MiniOasis.com that specialized in refinishing old Minis and putting in modern elements -- like a new engine -- to make them into these Mini Rolls-Royces. They had pictures of all the little victims, and one was really cute. It reminded me of the one I had in Paris. It was a 1972, all black exterior, with tan leather on the inside and beautiful oak wood. I had the president of my company, who is more operational than me, handle it. We hired a broker in New York City. The car was in Denmark, which is where they convert them.  It cost $16,000 including shipping, and 5 months later, it arrived at the Newark ports. It was so easy and inexpensive, I couldn’t believe it.

“Driving it feels super-luxurious. It’s really an antique with a new engine, and just the sound of the motor…. It’s really surreal driving it in New York. It has that sound and smell specific to the Mini. It transports me to Paris. I live on 68th and Madison, and I drive every day to my studio. And, every time I drive, it attracts so much attention. I have more Rolls-Royces and Bentleys stopping and asking how to change their car for this funny little thing. It’s very cute. It really makes me smile. It makes everyone smile -- kids, construction guys, doormen -- they all smile. When I drove the Mercedes, I got more grimaces. With the Mini, you put on your signal, and everyone lets me go. It gives everyone a nice happy feeling.”

~As told to Karin Nelson

Get One:

MiniOasis.com is currently under construction and not accessible. However,

minis.co.uk is the leading specialist in Mini Cooper restoration.

For more info on J. Mendel, jmendel.com

Photos by Seth Wolfson - Seth Wolfson.com

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Denim Road-Test: Paper Denim Heart & Seoul
Korea’s #1 Stud Daniel Henney Loves 'Em

“It’s official. Daniel Henney has reached heartthrob status,” gushed The Korea Times in a recent cover story about the 27-year-old Korean-American model/actor who’s recently reached Brad Pitt proportions in the Asian world. As latest proof, the paper quoted a 40-line love poem that had been circulating on the Internet: A perfect combination of East and West/Clean-cut features, a perfect body and innocent smile/ Even my biggest foe English seems friendly when spoken through his beautiful lips/ I wonder what his mother did for prenatal care.

According to Martin Chung, Henney’s Canadian-Korean manager who rarely leaves his side, the star’s success was born literally overnight.  Within 24 hours of Henney’s first Korean soap opera appearance – a cameo with one line of dialogue, Chung’s office was flooded with inquiries and offers.  Full-on Henney frenzy began.

Furthering the obsession is his role on Korea’s highest-rated soap opera, My Lovely Samsoon, in which he stars as a hunky U.S. doctor who, oddly enough, speaks no Korean. His English dialogue is accompanied by subtitles, as Henney, who was born in Lansing, Michigan to a Korean-American mother and British-American father and attended the University of Chicago (he went on a basketball scholarship and graduated with a business degree), only recently moved to Seoul from New York – where he trained with at the Actors Studio - and started learning the language. No matter, Henney fluently speaks the international language of love, as evidenced in TV commercials for Bean Pole clothing line, in which he exchanges seductive glances with Gwyneth Paltrow. The two met up last week in London to shoot a new batch of flirty ads. 

We caught up with Henney (who also walks the runways for Gucci, Armani, and Cavalli) on the set at Spring Studios, where he was magnificently rocking a collegiate-stud look in a pink T-shirt, Paper Denim jeans, flip-flops, and a baseball cap.  A mere mention of Paper Denim, and the star’s face lit up.  Henney could barely contain his excitement. 

So, you like Paper Denim jeans?
“They’re the only ones I wear. Other jeans aren’t cut long enough. I find they have the longest legs.” 

Is there any style or wash you prefer?
“Not really. I have all different colors. I go into Bloomingdale’s and buy 4 or 5 pairs at a time. Just swoop them all up.”

Where do you wear them?
“Where do I NOT wear them?”

What do you like to wear with them?
“I wear them with everything.  Maybe with a t-shirt during the day, or with one of my tailor-made shirts that I get in Korea at night.  They’re the perfect travel companion - pack a couple of pairs and you’re good to go.”

So what do you miss most about being stateside?
“When I lived in New York I played the bass guitar in a band.  I’ve always enjoyed listening to jazz, so I particularly miss going to the great jazz clubs in the village. 

 

Get It:

Paper Denim & Cloth boot-leg jeans, $100, amazon.com

Look for Daniel in the upcoming film, Seducing Mr. Robin, in which he plays a businessman looking for love.

For more on Daniel, check out one of his many fansites and blogs, such as ahdaniel-blogspot.com

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Single-Use-Video-Cam Road-Test:CVS's Cheap Film
Chiara Clemente Gets the Money Shot

Having grown up in Rome, New York and Madras, India, the daughter of celebrated painter Francesco Clemente, Chiara Clemente has always had a natural affinity for the arts. “I absorbed it unconsciously,” she explains. “Our home was also my father’s studio; I grew up tiptoeing around his paintings. Artists would drop by for my mother’s famous pastas.”

When she was 12, she turned in video projects instead of handwritten assignments; it was the beginning of her burgeoning film career. Since graduating from Pasadena Arts Center, Clemente -- now 28, and based in NYC -- has directed documentaries on Keith Haring, Frank Gehry, Brice Marden, Citizen’s Band, and, of course, her father. Currently, she is working on a Richard Tuttle documentary, and her pet project, a collage of portraits on five women artists working in NYC today. Entitled “Our City Dreams,” the film explores the lives of Nancy Spero, Marina Abramovic, Kiki Smith, Ghada Amer, and Swoon, who was partially filmed using a single-use video camera. Here, Clemente discusses her experience with the camcorder, which Time Magazine named one of the Best Inventions of 2005. 

How did you first learn about the camera?
“I always love using different mediums in my films (HDV, 16mm, Super 8, still b/w photos). I love the different textures and how just by changing mediums you can completely change the mood and feel of what you are shooting.  I discovered the camera one day when discussing with my director of photography how we were going to get footage of Swoon’s train-hopping trip.  We needed something as discrete as possible, that you could throw in a backpack and not worry if it was left on a train.  My DP heard about the camera, but wasn’t sure if it was out yet.  We did a little research and found it had just been placed in stores. The disposable camera was a total experiment – I basically tested it out for that.”

You also used it for Swoon’s art opening at Deitch, right?
“Yeah, that was really crazy. Japanther played out of a big truck. I didn’t want to go in with my HD camera. I wanted something grainier – more ‘street’ than polished.”

What did you think of it?
“I was amazed. The film comes out really pixellated, but the pixels become part of the texture. You don’t get the same feeling from other cameras. It’s like the Super 8 of digital cameras. They’re a smudginess to it that’s great. It totally worked for the situation.”

How was the sound?
“The sound is actually pretty good.  I recorded Japanther and the music sounds great. A bit scratchy, but I think that’s the overall feeling of the camera.”

Will you use it again?
“Yes, definitely.”

Get It:

CVS Digital One-Time-Use Video Camcorder records 20 minutes of film. After you’re finished, you return the camera to CVS and they process the footage onto a DVD in about an hour. The camera is $30. Processing is an additional $13. For store locations: cvs.com

For more on “Our City Dreams,” disanlucafilms.com

First photo of Clemente courtesy of Patrick Mcmullan, patrickmcmullan.com

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Denim Road-Test: Red Engine
NYC Rock Dudes Like ‘Em Skinny & Dark

They say black is back. Skinny black (or dark ash, or midnight, whatever they’re calling it) jeans are big for fall ‘06. But hasn’t black always been big? I’ve always been an “all-black-wearin’” type of gal. I was that chick in high school who wore Doc Martens with pearls in my conservative-suburban town, and gushed over Robert Smith, Morrissey and Depeche Mode. Many weekends, I went to Revival, an “underage night” in Philly -- it was our version of Misshapes -- wearing skinny black Guess or Esprit jeans.

Some things don’t change, because I’m still wearing those skinny black jeans and going to bars with the same vibe as Revival. But, I’ve grown up; my taste is more refined. Most recently, I came upon a chic pair of jeans by Los Angeles-based Red Engine. The company was founded in 1998 by James Boldes, and prides itself on creating “a premium vintage-inspired line that features both classic and cutting-edge wash techniques.” Red Engine was kind enough to lend me a pair so I could give ‘em a road-test. What better spot to test them than The Annex, a band hangout on the Lower East Side that serves NYC’s more fashionable rock ‘n’ roll scene?

I squeezed my way into the ultra-slim (maybe too slim?) black pair they sent. Picture it: my entire body laid flat on the floor, tugging at the zipper, like that scene in Dazed and Confused; and, I have to admit, I felt sexy. They created an amazingly sleek silhouette, and actually felt comfortable, because of the stretch.

At The Annex, I was greeted by Jason Baron, one of the owners (he also co-owns The Dark Room), who stepped aside to comment on my new look. “They’re like air conditioning on a hot summer day!” he remarked. So, what’s his take on the black factor? “I spill a lot of stuff in the bar and if I spilled anything on you, you’d get the stains out,” he responded. Okay.

After a few beers I found my way downstairs and bumped into Josh Garza, drummer for the band Secret Machines. Josh is known for wearing black…a lot… so I knew his opinion would be positive. “They looook good. They loooooook goooooood!” he bellowed after taking a careful head-to-toe look. Sweet success.

~Jessica McMenamin is a music writer in NYC.

Get Them:

Red Engine skinny jeans, $164, available in NYC at Cantaloup, 1036 Lexington Ave, (212) 249-3566; and The Lounge, 539 Broadway; (212) 674-4229. For a list of more stores: redenginejeans.com

The Annex, 152 Orchard St, NYC; (212) 673-3410

For more info on The Secret Machines: myspace.com/secretmachines

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Denim Road-Test: Japanese Exclusives
Blue In Green Picks the Best Imports

It took Jahream, Yuji Fukushima, and Gordon Heffner a year and a half to open Blue In Green, their much-anticipated men’s lifestyle shop. That was the time it took them to scour Japan for the most sought-after denim and streetwear labels yet to hit America.

“Everything in here is exclusive to us,” says Jahream, the single-monikered marketing partner. “It’s either made exclusively for us, or sold exclusively to us.” Consequently, since they opened on SoHo’s Greene Street six weeks ago, they’ve had a steady stream of denim freaks looking to finally lay hands on the brands getting big buzz on message-boards. Labels like Sugar Cane, Samurai, Pure Blue, Oni, John Bull, Studio D’Artisan, and Warehouse -- and that’s just for starters. Blue In Green (named for a Miles Davis song) also stocks a well-edited selection of jewelry, sneakers, and art; as well as sportswear from American designers like Telfar and Oliver Helden, and odd collectibles like YSL and Vivienne Westwood washcloths, imported from Japan.

But it was the denim that had us drooling. Like the pair of Samurai 5000’s made from a 17-oz denim so stiff the jeans could stand up by themselves. No joke - check the photo. “These, you’ll pass onto your grandchildren,” says Jahream. (The 24-ouncers are arriving for winter.)

We asked the guys to come up with their favorites. Here, their Top 5: 

Sugar Cane Edo AI:
“Sugar Cane is one of the most reputable and quality-driven denim companies in the world. After World War II, the shortage of cotton forced fabric manufacturers to find ways to substitute the resource. Sugar Cane devised a method of making thread using sugar cane extract interwoven with cotton to create an equally durable fabric. They then started designing dungarees from the innovative fabric. [Ed. Note: Take a sniff of the denim, and there’s a hint of sweetness]. Each Sugar Cane dungaree is cut and sewn together by highly skilled craftsmen from Japan and USA, respectively -- all with strict standards of quality and homage to the old-school techniques of garment-making. All Sugar Cane dungarees are dyed using genuine indigo using a rope-dyeing technique, which involves dyeing the thread strands prior to weaving. The Edo AI is actually made of 10% natural indigo, a more pure indigo, and 90% genuine indigo -- hence the green color. This style is dyed using the same techniques used during Edo-era Japan (1603-1867), making it that much more unique. They have a printed front-pocket lining and back pockets hand-sewn with sugar cane thread.” 

Warehouse 1950 Duckdigger
“The Warehouse Company is another brand at the top of many denim connoisseurs’ lists. What sets it apart from others is the extent to which they ensure faithful emulations of pre-1900 designs and manufacturing techniques. For example, on their 1800 models, which represent a style that was created before the invention of the rivet, they do what the norm for that time was, and make several stitching patterns to act as reinforcement. All Warehouse Jeans are essentially hand-made, in that care is taken to preserve the old style of sewing, which does not incorporate modern time-saving techniques. Instead, double rows of stitching are sewn one-at-a-time. All Warehouse jeans are rope-dyed using genuine indigo. And all button-holes are hand-sewn, which for a raw denim jean is an incredible detail and unique to this brand.”

Samurai S5000VX
“The name hints at what to expect from this denim company out of Osaka, Japan. Samurai Jeans pride themselves in making some of the heaviest and toughest denim on the market with an added sense of quality and detail that is expected from a Japanese denim company. The majority of their models weigh in at 17 ounces -- an average pair of jeans sold in the US is anywhere between 10 to 13.5 ounces. These jeans will put any tough guy to the test to break them in. We have a photo showing a pair of Samurai jeans after one wash standing on their own. Due to the rigidity and weight of the material, once faded the results are amazing with hues of deep dark blue contrasting with the natural white of the cotton beneath.  All Samurai jeans are genuine indigo and made in Japan. Details include brand-stamped rivets, logo pocket lining, and their trademark silver selvage, meant to represent the samurai sword. Live by the sword selvage!”

Oni Denim Blue
“Most denim is woven using a two-shuttle loom process, giving the material a balanced weave, both vertically and horizontally. By contrast, Oni’s denim is woven using only one shuttle loom, which yields a unique, uneven, slubby texture, reminiscent of hand-woven denim. Apparently, several attempts were made on several machines, and all failed, except one; and that's the only one used for Oni Denim jeans.”

Pure Blue
“Pure Blue Japan has found their niche in the Japanese denim market with their painstaking indigo-dyeing techniques – hence, their name. Their jeans have plain back pockets, free of any stitching. The idea is to draw attention away from the detailing and towards the quality and workmanship. Two things that make this particular model unique is the dye -- 100% natural indigo. And the weaving process – it’s tightly woven to produce a super-slubby texture.”

Get Them:

Sugar Cane, Edo AI, $315

Warehouse 1950 Duckdigger, $235

Samurai Jeans, S5000VX, $285

Oni Denim Blue, $255

Pure Blue Japan, AI-001, $500

All styles available at Blue In Green, 8 Greene St., NYC, (212) 680-0555; blueingreensoho.com

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Denim Road-Test: Odyn Jeans
Esteban Cortazar Finds A Slim Solution

For skinny guys with a thing for skinny jeans, finding a style that fits is a quite literally a big problem. For the most part, the men’s denim market simply doesn’t address the needs of narrow-hipped, slim-jims, size 28 and under. The solution? “I usually wear women’s jeans,” concedes Esteban Cortazar. The 22-year-old Colombian design ingénue – who, at age 18, was the youngest designer to show at New York Fashion Week; and single-handedly brought Cindy Crawford out of retirement by having her open and close his spring ’04 show (other devout Cortazar fans include Beyonce, Kim Catrall, and Paris Hilton) -- says he’s a size 30, but is in fact several sizes smaller. “I’m sorry I’m so petite,” he wrote, ending his lament with a frowning computer face. 

Noting his preference, we sent Cortazar a pair of super-slim, size 28 women’s jeans from Odyn. From what we discovered, the year-and-a-half-old, New York-based, Nordic-inspired brand that’s big with Jessica Simpson also looks pretty darn good on dudes. Here’s the skinny: 

What jeans do you usually wear?
“Vintage, boot-cut Jordache, Wrangler or Levis. I’ve been wearing them since I was 12 or 13. And for totally straight-leg skinny, I go to the women’s section of Diesel. They’re classic and I like the cut -- they fit me well.”

How do the Odyn’s fit?
“I love them. They’re very slim and slimming. They hug my leg and butt. I love that cut. I like it tight. And they’re a little long, which is good. I like some scrunch at the bottom.”

What about the wash?
“I like raw, dark denim. I have a pair of dead-stock Jordache that are really dark. These are a little washed-out, but not too much. They’re not all glammed-out; they’re a more comfortable look, which I’m into. They’re for just chilling.”

What would you wear with them?
“I’d wear them with boots -- cowboy, motorcycle, vintage Gucci ones. Or flip-flops, which I’m always in. Or a pair of sneakers – Converse, Puma or Nike. I don’t do shoes so much. Even when I go to fancy party, I wear low boots that look like a shoe. I love the look of dark-denim jeans with a crisp white shirt and great accessories -- a great belt and boots. I usually wear a lot of vintage, but I also love McQueen, Gucci, YSL. I adore The Gap, and I’m a huge American Apparel fan. It’s great for basics – for getting T-shirts in every single color.”

Where are you gonna wear them?
“There’s a Saturday night party called Aquabooty. It’s at a club called Glass. It’s amazing. They play the best Brazilian house music that just makes you want to dance all night. But, really, until Fashion Week, I’m not leaving my studio.”

Get Them:

Odyn skinny jeans, $176, available at revolveclothing.com

For more on Esteban Cortazar: estebancortazar.com

Go There:

Where you may find Cortazar: Glass at the Forge, 432 41st Street, Miami Beach, (305) 604-9798; aquabooty.com

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Helicopter Road-Test: Baggage Claim
Maggie & Peter Take A US Helicopter Ride From Hell

We nearly dropped our bowl of bon-bons a couple months back when we read the press release for US Helicopter, a new 8-minute chopper service from downtown Manhattan to JFK. Not since the Concorde has a mode of transportation actually saved the traveler time… until now, it claimed.

Forget traffic! Forget stress! Forget airport security and check-in lines -- US Helicopter passengers are screened at the Heliport at Wall Street where they receive boarding passes and baggage receipts, and are then transported to a secure section of JFK. And, it only costs $159 one-way (plus taxes), which, they pointed out, is roughly the same price as an airport limo. (Not quite, but we forgave them this mathematical indiscretion.) 

We gotta have someone road-test this! we thought. Someone cool, jet-set. Then we remembered that Maggie Gyllenhaal and fiancé Peter Sarsgaard were headed to Cannes from New York for the premiere of her upcoming film Paris, je t’aime. It took some convincing (Maggie, as it turns out, has chopper trepidation; and was 4 months pregnant), but they agreed to do it. It seemed like such a good idea… 

Maybe it was our fault for telling US Helicopter not to give them any special treatment -- we wanted an honest road-test! But we never in a million years expected that they would provide the worst service possible by LOSING THEIR LUGGAGE! How on God’s earth, we thought, as we listened to Maggie’s frantic message from the airport, does a tiny helicopter with only a couple of passengers lose luggage? 

From there, things got worse: Due to their 2-hour wait for their luggage -- which wasn’t actually lost; rather, the baggage handler (who has, like, two pieces of baggage to handle) forgot to load it onto the chopper -- Maggie and Peter missed their flight to France.

In the end, the couple finally did make it to Cannes, and Maggie looked magnificent on the red carpet. As compensation for the stressful snafu, we suggested to US Helicopter that they pay for First Class tickets for the couple. They declined, and came back with a counter-offer of flowers and a free return trip on the Hell-o-copter. Thanks, but no thanks.

Don’t Do It:

For more info on US Helicopter, flyush.com

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Denim Road-TestDeener: Gallerist Melissa Bent And The Art Of Dressing

“She is always pulled together in a gracefully laid-back yet kooky way,” stated Mirabelle Marden in Vogue last fall about her Rivington Arms gallery partner, Melissa Bent. “I would agree with that,” says Bent, dressed in a deconstructed Veronique Branquinho sundress and brown leather Rondini sandals. “You can only get them in St. Tropez,” she points out, shoveling chopsticks full of Kelley & Ping pad thai into her mouth.

Bent, 28, admits her style hasn’t changed much over the years (“It’s always been sort of fancy lass”). That is, except for the recent addition of denim to her wardrobe: “I didn’t wear jeans for years. All throughout college I was into black pants -- fancy black pants.” It wasn’t until she purchased a pair of long, lean, dark blue Daryl K jeans that she realized what she’d been missing. “They’re a disaster zone now.  I’ve worn them out. There are actual openings in the creases behind the knee.” Filling the void are skinny low-rise Topshops and a pair of straight-legged, frayed Dolce & Gabbana jeans which she likes to wear with vintage ‘80s-style Maud Frizon shoes, Dries Van Noten blouses, and a slashed Gaultier top. “But what I really want,” Bent told us, “is a pair of skinny, high-waisted jeans.”

Here, she road-tests just that: dark, slim, high-rise jeans from Deener, a new L.A-based line created by the founding designer of Yanuk.

So, what do you think?
“They’re terrific! The denim is really nice and they totally fit well. They’re long, which is good [Bent is 5’10”]. When I find something this length, I usually buy three. They’re skinny, but not too snug – there’s a bit of stretch in the denim. I like that. I also like the button details above the pockets. I think it’s nice. And the color is perfect.” 

Tell us about the outfit, which you assembled in 5 minutes flat.
“It’s an Isabel Marant blouse which Mirabelle brought back for me from Paris, Charles Jourdan shoes, and a McQueen scarf. I like the idea of wearing cropped blouses – like those from Miu Miu –with high-waisted jeans. And always heels.”

Where are you planning on wearing them? 
“I can’t wear anything but dresses right now. It’s too hot outside. But as soon as the weather cools down, everywhere.”

Get Them:

Deener high-waisted cigarette jean, $189, at Otte in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, (718) 302-3007; and American Rag in L.A., (323) 935-3154; deenerdenim.com

Go There:

Rivington Arms, 4 E. 2nd St., NYC; (646) 654-3213; rivingtonarms.com.

See the current show, Mathew Cerletty’s Fallingwater, before it closes June 30th.

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Oxygen Dispenser Road-Test: Oxia
Supermodel Sculptor Grayson Fertig Tries To Get High

By the time most of us have eaten our second meal of the day sitting at a computer screen, Grayson Fertig, 26, has finished his second highly-intense physical training session. And it won’t be his last before heading home. Such is the daily schedule of a professional bobsledder, who’s also squeezed in an additional career/ultimate male fantasy as a physical trainer at Chelsea Piers for some of the most exquisite female bodies on earth. He asks we don’t disclose who his clients are (you’d be respectful, too, if it meant securing your up-close positioning with sweaty European, Russian, and South American supermodels), but suffice it to say, they fill the pages of Vogue and Sports Illustrated.

So, when we came across Oxia, “the world’s most fashionable” personal oxygen dispenser, we thought there was no one better than Fertig to test it out. According to the company website, breathing in Oxia promotes better blood circulation, heightens concentration and memory, enhances and rejuvenates skin, calms the mind, stabilizes the nervous system, and relieves both headaches and hangovers. It’s been officially endorsed by an NHL trainer, discussed in an ABC News segment as the Next Big Thing, and bought by Bergdorf Goodman. But is bottled oxygen nothing but nicely-packaged hot air? Fertig takes a breath and weighs in:

Are you feeling awesome?
“Honestly, I didn’t feel any significant changes. I tried it out yesterday and today just before a training session, and I did just as they instructed me to – take 5 deep breaths… The premise is interesting. In theory it sounds like a good idea. But I can’t say I ‘Feel so alive!’ or ‘So amazing’. I wish I had a hangover to try that part out.”

No “immediate energy boost”?
“Nothing drastic enough for me to notice. The whole idea interests me because as a bobsledder, we win and lose by a 100th of a second, so if there was a product that helped me be even a 1000th of a second faster, it’d be awesome. They warn you not to take it on a plane, otherwise I’d bring one to Utah this weekend where I’m training to see if it worked like that.”

But the benefits of breathing deep are undeniable…
“I totally agree. But I already breathe deeply. My warm-ups include breathing techniques. They tell you that regular air is only 22% oxygen and that these canisters are 90%, but I think that if you take 5 regular deep breaths, you’ll feel just as good as taking hits off a metal canister. Oxia is probably very effective for someone who doesn’t breathe correctly.” 

So, basically, people should just breathe free air?
“Apparently, you can make a lot of money reminding people to breathe. They should create a text for phones, put it on cards.”

Get It:

A bottle of Oxia with oxygen (12 to 15 uses), $59.95; refills $14.95; oxia.com

For more on Fertig

Get in Supermodel Shape:

Fertig advocates the "City Run." 1-minute of walking, 1-minute of "light-hearted schoolgirl" skipping, and 1-minute of up-tempo running, continuously for 30-45 minutes. "It's all about having fun. You're not going to get an athletic figure from doing boring-ass runs all hunched-over like an old lady."

Black & White photo courtesy of Walter Chin from his upcoming book After Shoot

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Mobile Phone Road-Test: O2 Atom
Dr. Chris Perez Recommended

As far as dentists go, there are those who breath heavily through their noses and have piles of old Redbooks for reading material, and then there’s Chris Perez, a handsomely unshaven cosmetic dentist, who is considered the guy to go to within the fashion industry. He works out of a groovy chic Soho office complete with art and design publications, wears premium denim (usually 45rpm, but today, Kicking Mule), is married to the senior art director of Ralph Lauren, counts everyone from Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Craig McDean to all the near-perfect Eastern European and European supermodels with not so perfect teeth as his patients, and would rather discuss crazy new tech gadgets than root canals.

Here, Dr. Perez gives his diagnosis of the new 02 Xda Atom PDA-phone, which runs on Microsoft Windows Mobile 5.0, comes with built-in WiFi, Bluetooth capability, an FM radio, and a 2-megapixel camera.

What do you think of it?
“It’s awesome. I love it. It can do anything. I mean, it doesn’t do anything that other awesome phones can’t. But, it does do it all sleeker and faster. ”

How did you discover it?
“I dropped my last phone – which was actually my wife’s Motorola – in a puddle of water. So, I asked a friend of mine who was headed to Hong Kong and is a big 02 phone freak to get me one. You can’t really get it here.”

How much did you pay for it?
“I keep offering, but he won’t let me pay for it. But, I looked it up online, and it’s like $800.”

Nice friend.
“Really nice friend.” 

What’s your favorite feature on the phone?
“The fact that it’s like a mini computer. I surf the web, listen to the radio. Texting is cool, cuz it just comes up like on a computer screen. I bought these Bluetooth headphones to go with it – those are pretty cool too.”

What don’t you like about the phone?
“The phone part could be better – it’s just not as clear as dedicated phones. And the keyboard could be bigger. It’s hard to read sometimes on the screen. But, there are always trade-offs in life. All in all it’s great.”

Get It:

O2 Xda Atom, $859, available in limited supply on amazon.com

For more info on the O2 Xda Atom phone, seeo2.com

For an appointment with Perez, check out Soho Dental, 589 Broadway, (212)219-760

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Video Game Road-Test: Table Tennis, Anyone?
Cobrasnake & Crew Join The Ping Pong Revolution

A new movement in guerrilla marketing is taking hold, and video game heavyweights Rockstar Games are on top of the trend.  The modern advertorial recipe for success: offer hipsters and industry insiders a second home stocked with all the free booze, food and entertainment any borderline video game junkie could appreciate.

For the past three months, Rockstar has hosted underground tournaments in a rented loft on the Bowery for a range of tastemakers—SNL, Kanye West’s crew, and Jane Magazine included. Their plan?  To initiate a virtual Ping-Pong revolution.  Last Wednesday, it was the likes of MarkThe CobrasnakeHunter, Dimmak, Kid Robot, Work In Progress, and all their cohorts indulging in an open bar, Beard Papas pastry puffs, a handful of Xbox 360s, and hours of Table Tennis. 

“It’s just to get girls, really,” joked Hunter -- seated low on a couch, wireless controller in hand -- of his interest in the video game in front of him.

“It’s a simple, straightforward, pure game experience,” beamed Will Rompf, a head analyst for the game who’s clocked in over 4000 hours of playing time.  Gamers can choose from 19 different ping-pong venues (we like the glass-topped roof one), 11 ethnically-diverse players, and either an Adidas or Joola jersey.  Whether one prefers “just hitting one button like Aoki, or the analog controls (as Rompf does), the game is childproof: Your controller will actually vibrate to let you know if your swing is about to send the ball off the table.

And, despite complaints we’ve heard (one industry insider asked: “Why can’t I throw the paddle, or stick it in somebody’s head?”), Rockstar kept their Table Tennis clean enough for the kiddies. Unlike the notoriously-violent Grand Theft Auto, this one is rated E for Everyone.

“It’s pretty intense,” says Sean Risley, the 23-year-old owner of body-alteration website, mybodystory.com.  “After playing for about 20 minutes I actually started yelling.”

Even DJ Clarissa Steed, who at first refused to play on account of finding “video games and table tennis really dorky,” ended up taking part, and winning second place in the tournament.

-Alisa Gould-Simon

Get Yours:


Check out video of the Table Tennis Tournament on psychopedia.com’s Dusk 2 Dawn

Rockstar Games Presents Table Tennis, $39.99, amazon.com

Xbox 360, $399.99, bestbuy.com

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Denim Road-Test:The Tight Stuff
Aleksandra Woroniecka Narrows In On Her Favorite Jeans

“Everyone’s doing them, but not nicely,” opines Aleksandra Woroniecka on the state of skinny jeans. She ought to know: The Polish-born, French-bred, New York-based fashion stylist (and former editor of now-defunct avant-garde style bible Rebel) has worn slim jeans pretty much every day of her adult life. And before that, she wore only leggings. “I like how they’re neat, but at the same time rock ‘n’ roll,” she explains of her drainpipe preference.

However, all thin jeans aren’t created equal: “It’s hard to find styles that are very tight – tight on the hips and tight at the bottom. Most of them just go down straight and look wide at the bottom,” bemoans the statuesque beauty. “And I don’t like ones that have a low waist. It’s the worst when G-strings hang out.”

So, what styles pass her test? Here, Woroniecka discloses her favorite drainpipe jeans:

Trash & Vaudeville: “They’re the only ones who do the slim cut well! I have a dark grey, washed-out black pair from their own label. They’re so tight and rock ‘n’ roll – very Ramones.”

What She Wears Them With: shrunken jacket from Chanel or Balenciaga, with a hoodie underneath.

Earl: “They’re the best ones I own, but I bought them 5 years ago, and unfortunately, they don’t do this slim of a style anymore! They’re really tight and black.”

What She Wears Them With: Occasionally, Marc by Marc Jacobs blue round-toe, low heels with studs.

Balenciaga: “They’re not from the runway – they’re a style that’s fortunately always in-store. They’re a medium blue, and very tight and short. They go just above my ankles, which is sort of retro.” What She Wears Them With: A T-shirt and red velvet Repetto ballet slippers.


Get Skinny:


Trash & Vaudeville unisex stretch-drainpipe pants, $60, at Trash & Vaudeville, 4 St. Marks Place, NYC; (212) 982-3590


Though not as tight as Woroniecka’s, Earl Straight-Fit jeans are cut pretty slim. $132-150. For store locations: earljean.com


Balenciaga slim jeans, $345, at Balenciaga, 542 W 22nd St., NYC; (212) 206-0872

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Fragrance Road-Test: Smiley Perfume Smelly Happy People
Fafi Takes a Whiff

French artist Fafi is the 30-year-old queen of cool, known for her trademark “Fafinettes,” a cast of big-breasted, lush-lipped, Lolita-like nymphettes that she paints on walls worldwide. She’s created everything from T-shirts to toy figurines; and has collaborated on design projects with Sony, Colette, Coca-Cola, and Adidas. The little lady from Toulouse is even teaming up with Kelis on a collection to coincide with the singer’s next album launch this month.

The French graffeuse has practically become a household name lately, thanks to a successful string of exhibitions and book publications (the most recent entitled Love and Fafiness). Here, Fafi pauses to try out Smiley Perfume, a groundbreaking new fragrance that promises to make people happy -- because if anyone knows how to stimulate hormones, it’s this girl.

The deal: Smiley by Ora-Ito claims to be the first antidepressant perfume, containing ingredients supposedly scientifically-proven to regenerate endorphins. And, yes, this stuff is legal!

The brand: Some refer to French designer Ora-Ito as “the other Marc Newson,” considering he’s reinterpreted everything from Vuitton backpacks to Heineken bottles, mobile phones and Mac computers.

Fafi tells it like it is:
“To me it really smells like summer. It reminds me of what tanned, sunburnt skin smells like.”

Packaging and design:
“I usually prefer the spray nozzle to be placed in the center of the bottle, but with this one, they’ve positioned it on the side. It’s cool design, but doesn't really work for functionality. Not for me anyway. It’s a bit awkward."

What fragrance do you usually wear?
“The perfume of my baby son Klorane.”

What kind of mood were you in before you put it on?
“I was feeling happy to be out.”

What kind of mood were you in after you put it on?
"I had a fantastic night, a really great evening and am not entirely sure if it’s because of the perfume, but it could have been, I suppose."

What do you think of the smell?
“It’s much too sugary for me.”

What is your favorite smell?
“La fleur d'oranger” (Orange Blossom)

~Linlee Allen

Get It:


Smiley Perfume (30ml) $38, colette.fr


For more info on FAFI, check out fafi.net and myspace.com/fafinette


For more on Ora-Ito: ora-ito.com

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Music-Phone Road-Test: Nokia’s N91
A.R.E Weapons’ Brain McPeck Sounds Off

Last week, Nokia introduced the N91, its latest N-series multimedia mobile phone that morphs a music player with a camera, video player, voice recorder, FM radio, and email capability. Already it’s being touted amongst tech bloggers as the “iPod killer.”

The N91 contains 4GB of storage, which translates to roughly 3000 tunes. You can drag songs onto it from your desktop, or download new ones while on the go. It snaps 2-megapixel pictures, allows you to send and receive emails of up to 300KB, and comes with built-in WiFi and Bluetooth. As for the battery -- it’ll last long enough to play tunes for 10 hours, talk for 4, or standby for 190. It seems the only problem with this puppy is the $1000 price.

Fortunately for some, Nokia decided to comp the phones to a select batch of musicians and DJs. Because, really, who better than they to sing the praises of the N91? Here, one of the lucky ones, A.R.E Weapons’ front-man Brain McPeck, sounds off on it. In his own words:

First off, this mother’s built like a fine German pistol -- all cold and glistening stainless steel. Long and lean with a huge-ass screen.  After sitting with my tech-buddy Andy for about an hour, I had half a grasp on what this thing could do. It’s got as much music space as a big Nano, which is cool ‘cause you gotta keep your music nice and edited.  The camera’s nicer than any digital camera I’ve ever had (I’ve never had a digital camera). There’s a voice recorder for all my note-to-selfs and song ideas, which is cool ‘cause I forget stuff the second it comes out my mouth.

I’ve never really been a gadget guy, but this superphone got me in touch with some inner nerd that I didn’t even know was in there.  You feel all cool with your no-one-else- has-one-of- these- cause-it’s-just-that- new-and-silver-and- cool-looking.  And you can rock tunes. And when your phone rings, it pauses the Bad Brains, and you can talk to one of your friends; and when you hang up, the music comes back on. And it comes with these sweet headphones. Thanks, Nokia. You’ve made my personal mobile communication dreams come true. Dreams I didn’t even know I dreamed.  

Brain
A.R.E. Weapons

PS: I hear this thing Wi-Fis and Bluetooths, but I don’t get down like that.

Get One:


For more info on the N91: nokia.com/nseries
Search shopzilla.com for the best prices on the N91


For more on A.R.E Weapons: areweapons.com and myspace.com/areweapons


Check out A.R.E Weapons in action in the Dusk2Dawn section of PsychoPEDIA.com

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Denim Road-Test: 501s
Louis Shannon Roughs Up His Levi's

He’s an artist, an avid skateboarder, a musician who makes his own synthesizers -- and a 14-year-old freshman at the United Nations International School. His name is Louis Chance Marcel Henri Shannon, and he's a lot more than just a descendent of Matisse: He’s an original. The New York native has big ideas, and, seemingly, even bigger pockets. Here, he discusses life-as-Louis, during his lunch break:

Tell us a little about yourself.
“I have a younger brother who's taller than me, and I’ve been a vegetarian since 3rd grade.”

What’s your favorite pair of jeans?
“My Levi’s 501's, in brown. I do everything in them, ‘cause I wear them all the time. I love my brown jeans.”

How did you get that hole on your knee?
“I fell down a set of stairs. I was trying a jump on my skateboard.”

What’s the craziest thing you've ever done in them?
“One time I fell into hot tarmac on the street. I was completely stuck, and covered in it. It was pretty funny, I guess.”

Where did you get them?
“Dave’s.”

What do you wear them with?
“A T-shirt, underwear…usually. No, just kidding, always. I wear the jeans all the time, so basically with everything else I own.”

What are your favorite brands?
“Well, usually I wear shirts made my people in the skateboarding culture. One of my favorite shirts is made by this guy Bobby Puleo. He’s a pro-skater and the creator of a brand called Victim.”

Who are some of your idols?
“There’s a great band called Whirlwind Heat – they’re awesome. Jack White, my brother Jack Shannon, and Andy Kaufman. He’s just so cool.”

What do you want to do when you’re older?
“Oh man, that’s a question. I hate sounding cliché, but I guess I just did by saying that. It’s all about second-guessing yourself -- that’s the problem. But anyway, I just wanna be my own boss. I don’t want to work for anyone. I want to do something involving interactive art, electronics, and mainly music, whether it be electronic or straightforward rock-and-roll with my band. Something eclectic. As long as I’m doing something myself, and running my own life, I’ll be happy.”

Do you have a job?
“Yeah, I do, actually. I work at a poster store downtown called Tom Morris, which is really cool. It’s not just one of those stores that have reprints. I actually just saw a map there from before the 1700s, and they had California as a separate place, a separate little island. It was the craziest thing I've ever seen.”


What instruments do you play?
“Well that’s a good question, because what do you mean by that? Do you mean what instruments do you study, or what do you play? Officially, I play guitar, drums, Moog -- which is a synthesizer -- and home-built circuit bent instruments, but unofficially, I play a lot more.”

What’s the name of your band?
“I’m in two bands. The first is The Fart Doctors, and my other band is Kolin and The Kosmic Klams.”

What kind of music is it?
“The Fart Doctors could be classified as a kind of spaz-rock revolution, and Kolin and The Kosmic Klams is...("awesome music," as fellow bandmate Collin chimes in)...I don’t know, I really don’t believe in genres. I hate when I’m hanging out with those hipsters who try to classify our music, and music in general. Not all things need titles, some things just are.”

What are your musical influences?
“Whirlwind Heat, Beck, Brainiac, The White Stripes, and everything coming out of the Detroit area from the ‘70s, ‘80s, and ‘90s, from Iggy Pop to Dirt Bombs.”

“Yeah, I do, actually. I work at a poster store downtown called Tom Morris, which is really cool. It’s not just one of those stores that have reprints. I actually just saw a map there from before the 1700s, and they had California as a separate place, a separate little island. It was the craziest thing I've ever seen.”

What do your parents do?
“My dad’s an inventor, artist, sculptor. It’s hard to explain what he does, but it deals mostly with levitation. He can make things float, but it’s not just 'magic' -- it’s a kind of formula that deals with the relation of the earth to the cosmos. He’s really into the cosmos. My mom is a clothing designer. She has her own company called Caty New York.”

Where are your parents from?
“My dad’s a Norwegian from Wisconsin, and my mom was born and raised in Paris.”

What’s in your pockets right now?
“My Game Boy, a bus pass for the Pennsylvania Transit System, change, pieces of paper, which -- by the way -- I always pick up, and you should too. If you ever see a scrap of paper on the ground you should always look at it because it usually has something written on it, and a lot of the time you really discover something either about the person who left it, or about yourself. It’s so cool. I also have a circuit diagram – I’m building my own synthesizer right now. I have a crap-load of business cards, receipts, permission slips (more than one of each, because I usually forget to hand them in, so I keep getting new ones), an invitation to a show at Tisch, a French train stub, and my wallet. My wallet was made by this kid Beau when I was in 5th grade. I have even more business cards in there because when people ask me for the address of a place, I like to give them the card. It makes them think I work there. Kinda freaks them out. Plus, I always forget where everything is and it helps me remember. I also have my school ID (this pro-skateboarder drew all over it), a homemade Team Zissou ID card, an adaptor for 45 to regular record players, and 25 or more MetroCards. Oh, and once I was at this free concert and Debbie Harry and her band showed up and were standing next to me. I didn’t even ask or anything, but they thought I was waiting for them, or wanted their autograph. I had my wallet out, so Debbie Harry grabbed it and signed it. So, I have her autograph on my duct-tape wallet. Kinda cool.”

~Andrea Kristinsdottir

Get Them:


Brown Levi’s 501s, $35, Dave’s, 581 Ave. of the Americas, NYC; 800.543.8558; davesnewyork.com

Watch Louis and his friends in the short film UN High, shot by Andrea Kristinsdottir psychopedia.com

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Music Road-Test: Celebrity Albums
Cool’Eh Mag Goes On Record

Since its launch two years ago, New York-based magazine Cool’Eh has churned out content that brilliantly balances satire with seriousness. Case in point: Their recent 2006 “Must-Have” feature, which spoofed the product pages of men’s fashion mags, and managed to include both the avian-flu vaccine and the new Ghostface Killah Doll. Here, the editors review a selection of old and new celebrity albums, which – admittedly – is like mugging old ladies, without the remorse. In their own words:

PARIS HILTON
Unknown Title
Warner Bros.

We haven’t heard this album because the release date keeps getting pushed back, but unless we get to listen to it while snorting coke off her nipples in a fantasy world devoid of consequence, we wouldn’t waste our time. In fact, we’re billing her for the 15 seconds spent writing this. Paris has actually roped some legitimate hitmakers into putting their names on this – beats from Lil John, supposedly Scott Storch is executive-producing (guess he got tired of cashing all those checks from Beyonce), Fat Joe, and various other corny-sounding rappers. Must be some good….

EDDIE MURPHY
How Could It Be
CBS

This isn’t his self-titled comedy album. This is his 1985 pop record with the million-selling single Party All The Time. Unfortunately, Rick James wrote and produced that whole song, and it seems the nose candy ran out, because the rest of the LP is some serious basura. Eddie makes Jamie Foxx look like Al Green with this type of shit. You want to hear a good Eddie Murphy song, download Boogie in Your Butt from his first record. Now that’s what we call music.

THE BACON BROTHERS
iTunes Session Exclusive EP
Forosoco Records

According to one enthusiastic armchair reviewer: “You guys need to see them perform live before you judge them.” We beg to differ. With five albums under their belts, the Bacons are the most prolific of the celebrity artists featured here, but they’re also the best example of what happens when one family member gets rich -- they fund the misguided dreams of their siblings. Michael Bacon is like Bryan Adams, with less talent. Kevin is dope on the instruments, but one listen to his older brother’s vocals and you’ll know celebrity, combined with a brother’s guilt, is a terrible thing.

DEION SANDERS
Prime Time
Bust-It Records

You might remember 2 Legit to Quit. You might even still be able to do the hand-sign thing pretty quickly. But I know you forgot about this: Must Be the Money ringing any bells? Bringing back horrifying memories of the video? Deion getting his S-Curl juice all over a gold three-piece while soft-shoeing it around his mansion? We wish you could see this cover: Mr. Sanders is rocking a plaid zoot suit (purple), forsaking the jacket for a matching vest, all of which is superimposed on the (purple) face of a Timex or something. In case you forgot, Bust-It was MC Hammer’s label. We don’t know if this was a favor to Deion for being in Hammer’s 2 Legit video, or just one of Ham-Ham’s myriad “bad business moves,” but this is officially a turd. Imagine if Father MC had something stuck in his throat for a whole album with beats by C&C Music Factory. Now if you really want to take it back, how about that Cedric Ceballos jump-off…

WILLIAM SHATNER
Has Been
Shout Factory

Shatner wins. His record is by far the best out of all of these. The entire thing is produced by Ben Folds, and the cover of the Pulp hit Common People rocks. Guests include Aimee Mann, Henry Rollins, Lemon Jelly, and Joe Jackson. We generally avoid philosophizing, but it’s interesting to note that Shatner’s self-effacing sense of humor may be why he was able to put out a record that doesn’t completely suck.
 

If You Still Want Them:


Paris Hilton’s debut album will be released in June
Eddie Murphy, How Could It Be, used copy, $87, amazon.com

Bacon Brothers albums, $13, baconbros.com

Deion Sanders, Prime Time, ebay.com
William Shatner, Has Been, $14, shatnerhasbeen.com
 
Read It:


For Cool’Eh content and subscription info: cool’ehmag.com


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Denim Road Test: Judi Rosen Jeans
Cindy Greene Makes A Statement

Cindy Greene, co-founder of arthouse-rebel-prep label Libertine, has no trouble making clothes that appeal to highly-discriminating types -- like Karl Lagerfeld, who regularly sports Libertine tuxedo jackets, and readily admits his Dior Homme-like regard for the label. However, she does have trouble finding clothes for herself.

“90 percent of my wardrobe used to be vintage,” says Greene while shopping on a weekend escape to Arizona.  “But the market’s gotten so bad in the past couple years that I’m buying new things now – my world is turning upside down.” Marc Jacobs, Alexandre Herchcovitch, and Dolce Vita, a little shop on the Lower East Side that sells “sick boots” for $250, have afforded her some solace.

But jeans have been problematic: Whether too boot-cut (“I like to tuck my jeans into boots, so I need them tapered”), too low-cut (“Not into the midriff-baring situation”), or too logo-laden (“I like to keep it simple”), nothing, in Greene’s opinion, has looked right. We even tried to help by sending in the Swedes – Nudie, DenimBirds – but neither helped. Earnest Sewn’s straight-leg Decca’s in black sort of did the trick, as did a pair of wide-leg, patchwork-style, vintage ones from C. Madeleines in Miami. But nothing has so fully met her approval, and turned her into a Lagerfeld-like supporter, as Judi Rosen jeans.

The Thing About Them: “The fashion world is so saturated with denim right now that you don’t want to feel too conservative. You want to make a statement with your jeans. Judi’s jeans are interesting. They’re high-waisted, which is brilliant. No one else is doing that -- that I’ve seen. And they’re totally sexy. They make your ass look amazing, no matter the size.”

Style Picks: “My first pair of Judi Rosen’s were the cropped-to-the-knee dark-denim high-waisted ones that stretch. They’re totally fresh. Recently, I got a pair of long, high-waisted tapered ones in a periwinkle, very-‘70s, light blue wash -- so awesome. I love that they have no pockets in back – they’re simple and flattering. I also got the vest to match, which is so sexy.”

Final Plus: “The price is right.”

Get Them:


Judi Rosen, Hi-Waist Cigarette Leg jeans, $180, and Hi-Waist Knicker, $210; available at goodbaguglynyc.com, Patricia Field and In God We Trust in NYC, Satine and Bittersweet Lingerie in L.A., Eskell in Chicago, and Intermix stores along the East Coast.


Check Out Greene’s Favorite Shops:

Opening Ceremony, 35 Howard St., NYC; (212) 219-2688


Dolce Vita, 149 Ludlow St., NYC; (212) 529-2111


Satine, 8117 West Third St., L.A.; (323) 655-2142; satineboutique.com

C. Madeleine, 13702 Biscayne Boulevard, N. Miami Beach; (305) 945-7770; cmadeleines.com


Libertine is available at Barneys, Harvey Nichols in London, and Loveless in Tokyo.

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Sneaker Road Test: Claw's Favorites
Graffiti Great ID's The Finest Kicks Around

Legendary graffiti artist CLAW is a busy girl. In addition to spraying her infamous paw print all over the city, working as the fashion editor of Swindle, and co-branding collections with EckoRed, Hasbro (last year, she created a My Little Pony), and Calvin Klein’s teen-driven CK Choice underwear line, the Queens native and FIT-dropout also designs a line of clothing called Claw Money, and a collection of ‘80s-inspired sunglasses named And Suns. And this fall, she’ll also be a published author: Bombshell (published by Miss Rosen Editions)is a look back at her 20-year career as one of the most famous female graffiti-ers to date.

“I’m always running around,” she says. “I look like I’m jogging, but I’m not.”

No surprise, then, that CLAW rarely wears anything but sneakers. She has over 500 pair, which she keeps at a downtown storage space, alongside her immense collection of 1960s English couture, and hip-hop-friendly knock-offs like a faux Gucci tracksuit from the ‘80s. Here, CLAW discusses her favorite kicks right now, a custom-made pair from Nike ID.

The Back Story:
“Nike invited me to make a pair of sneakers. I went onto their website and picked a pair of Shox – I went for comfort, and these are the most comfortable sneakers ever. Nike’s technology is way superior to anything else. I’ll put on a pair of Adidas, and I’m dying in two hours. It’s like I wrapped my feet in pancakes.”

“Color-wise, there are so many options. I ended up using an old ‘80s pair of Nikes from my vintage collection as inspiration. They’re pink, green, orange, and yellow; and have ‘Claw’ written on one shoe, and ‘Money’ on the other.”

The Problem:
“I’m hard on everything. I run around town, I troop, I schlep. I’ve only been wearing them for like a week, and they’re trashed.”

The Outfit:
“Vintage Levis and a sweatshirt – like every other idiot. That was my look. Now everyone wears it.”

The Reaction:
Some 90-year-old woman on the subway asked if they were ID’s. I couldn’t believe it. She’s the only person so far to know. Everyone else has been like ‘Claw, you have your own sneakers now? How many did you make?’ I’m like ‘Uh, one.’”

Get It:


For more info on CLAW: clawmoney.com


Look for her in the graffiti documentary Infamy, which hits theatres in September. Watch the trailer at infamythemovie.com


Customize your own Nikes at nikeid.com


Check out Laces, CLAW’s favorite NYC sneaker store. “They’re the only one for girls.” 252 Mott St, (212) 334-5457; laces-nyc.com


First Claw Photo by Danielle Levitt
Second Claw Photo by Peter Sutherland

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Denim Road Test: No. 6 Style
Vintage Mavens Teach The Art of the Mix

No. 6, a seven-month-old vintage shop located on an Old World strip of Lower Manhattan, is one of those rare boutiques that identifies perfectly with how modern downtown girls want to look. Which is to say, cool -- in a beautiful, soulful, somewhat hippie, and entirely unique way.

Opened by vintage collector Morgan Yakus, who held stalls at both the Portobello and Chelsea Flea Markets, and Karin Bereson (a stylist whose work has appeared in The London Times and The New York Times Magazine), this expansive, tightly-edited shop features a rich mix of high-end bohemian and bygone glamour, both old and new. You’ll find Victorian lace, Parisian Art Deco dresses, Yves Saint Laurent-spirited tunics, Jacqueline Schnabel shoes, and soon, a line of imported denim (exact brand still being determined).

“It’s a good basic – something to pair with a really beautiful top,” explains Yakus of the decision to sell jeans – even though both she and Bereson, and most of their customers, try not to wear jeans that often. But, as Yakus puts it, “Sometimes you just want to wear something comfortable.”

Here, the girls discuss their favorite jeans, and how they style them:

Bereson’s Pick: Helmut Lang medium-blue men’s jeans with paint splatters. “They’re a little bit baggy, a little high-waisted, and slightly pegged in the good-bad way.” Jerry Seinfeld-style? “That’s it.”

How She Wears Them: “I cut the hems, and never wash them. Over the years the paint has disappeared, and the color has turned grey. They keep getting better and better. I used to force myself to put them on. They look really good with a pair of Converse or old-school sneakers, or high-heel open-toe sandals. And I like them with fuller tops – blazers, or my floaty Dries Van Noten blouses that come to the top of my thighs – hippie tops. I couldn’t get away with anything tighter or shorter, or I’d have to wear Reeboks and pretend I was headed to a Saturday Broadway matinee.”

Her Style: “Slightly boyish. But always with something surprising or feminine.”

Yakus’ Pick: Dark blue peg-leg, low-cut jeans from Topshop. “They remind me of something Stella McCartney once designed, with seams across the derriere. I got them early last year in London, and recently went back and couldn’t find them again.”

How She Wears Them: “Usually with oversized tunic tops, and lots of layers. They look really good with tie-up boots with heels, or platforms. But, because they’re peg-legged, they look good with everything.”

Her Style: “Eclectic, classic, surprising, muted color mixing, slightly ‘boho’ – that’s such an annoying word. I didn’t just say that.”

Go There:


No. 6, 6 Centre Market Place, NYC; (212) 226-5759; no6store.com


Topshop peg-legged jeans, 40 pounds (US $70), topshop.com
Helmut Lang jeans, around $100, eBay.com

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Video Phone Road-Test: Nokia
Casey Neistat Won’t Stop Talking

Filmmaker Casey Neistat can’t go 45 minutes without talking about cell phones. At least that’s what his brother Van believes: “He’s one of those nerds whose whole life revolves around tech stuff. No matter what the conversation is, he’ll lead it towards cell phones.”

“I am a bit of a gadget freak,” concedes Casey, who turned 24 last week.

So, it was with great pleasure that he discussed with us his latest acquisition -- a Nokia N90 that twists, shoots video, and is impossible to find in the U.S.

The Background Story: “Nokia makes the best cell phones in the world. They’re one of the few companies, along with Apple, that seriously considers its customers, which is why they have loyal followers.”

So, when Nokia announced eight months ago that they were coming out with a camera phone, which had Carl Zeiss optics and shot video at 30 frames per second (with the same resolution as “the old VHS cameras that our moms used to carry around on their shoulders”), Casey was all over it. He ordered it from a dealer -- “called NYC Cell Phones, or something” -- who got it straight from Finland.

“Three weeks ago, some guy delivered it to me, by hand, to my studio. It was a little shady. No one offers tech support. I have to call Nokia if I have a problem.”

The Price: “I’m embarrassed to say, like $600.”

His Assessment: “I like to videotape everything.” Fortunately for him, the phone can hold two hours of footage on its removable memory card, which he imports to his computer and edits. Of the video quality, Casey asserts, “It’s not just good, it’s good enough.”

But What About The Phone Part: “I’m talking to you on it now. Sounds fine, right?”

His Ring Tone: “It’s called ‘Broken Phone Ringer.’ I downloaded it. It sounds like an old phone that’s broken.”

Get It:


Nokia N90, $599 with plan: nokiausa.com/phones/N90


For more on The Neistat Brothers, and to watch their films: neistatbrothers.com


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Denim Road-Test: Nudie
Anne V.’s Revelation

Looking at her spread in this year’s Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Edition, it’s difficult to discern model Anne V.’s affection for denim. From what it appears, the 19-year-old Russian is happiest half-clad in a bikini bottom and strappy high-heel sandals.

But the truth is, Anne is most at ease in jeans. “I wear them everyday,” says the luminous blonde who looks Scandinavian, but speaks with a slight Spy-Who-Loved-Me accent. “Mostly dark blue ones, because they make you look tall and skinny. I’d like to get some light ones, but I can’t find a good pair that holds my ass tight.”  Gotta love this girl.

On the day that she came and hung out at our offices, she was a vision of nonchalant chic in Lucky Brand jeans. They were dark and stretchy, tucked into a pair of knee-high riding boots and paired with a black Gap tank top. “These old things?” she remarked. “I got them like four years ago when I first came to New York. My modeling agency took me shopping to get some normal clothes. In Russia, all you wear is, like, red pants and a white shirt – weird stuff.”

Now well-versed in the language of American fashion, she prefers the Swedish denim labels -- like Acne. “I first saw them on a shoot with Steven Meisel,”  she recalls. “Black Hex’s. I loved them immediately. I wear them pretty much all the time.”

Then there’s Nudie, which, as of a couple weeks ago -- when we gave her a pair of murky grey Slim Kim’s to try out -- is now her favorite. “The material is so nice -- they feel so comfortable,” she cooed on the phone at the time, having just returned from Las Vegas. “And they’re not too low. Nothing hangs out when you go to dinner, or hangs over after you eat. You know how you have to open a button? None of that.”

Check our latest feature film with Anne V. in Nudie Jeans on our home page.

Get Them

Lucky jeans, luckybrandjeans.com

Acne, acnejeans.com

Nudie, nudiejeans.com

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Denim Road-Test: Rock ‘n’ Republic
Lydia Hearst-Shaw And Her Scorpion Fetish

Lydia Hearst-Shaw, the 21-year-old great-granddaughter of publishing baron William Randolph Hearst (and daughter of SLA-abductee-turned-John Waters’ actress Patty Hearst) obviously doesn’t need to be gracing the cover of Italian Vogue, nor the ads for Bottega Veneta, to pay the rent. But at least, becoming an in-demand model has gotten her out of the house.

“Before I started working, I never came to New York,” admits Hearst-Shaw, who’d been sequestered in Wilton, CT, until eight months ago, when she moved to the Big Apple. “It took me aback at first.”

Yet, check her out now: boldly parading in the window of Barneys New York for the Imitation of Christ fashion show, jetting to Paris for magazine shoots, doing the pre-Oscars party crawl in L.A. So, we figured, as long as she’s busy racking up frequent-flyer miles, why not give her a pair of jeans to road-test along the way?

The ones she chose – a pair of Rock & Republic Scorpions – were so miniscule, we thought no one could ever fit into them:

How they working on you, Lydia?
“They fit great. They really elongate the leg. And I love that they’re not normal jeans. They’re a little different -- they have big deep pockets in front, and a rip below the knee, and worn-in holes -- they’re super-aged, and you don’t see jeans like that anymore. I’m not too particular about wash, but I really like the light denim. They’re easy to dress up or down.”

Where did you wear them?
“I wore them to [the Bryant Park] tents. I wore them to the Heatherette show, but I wore Heatherette after the show. I went to dinner at Matsuri in them with a bunch of people. I went on castings, to sittings. They’re really comfortable, so I went pretty much everywhere in them.”

What have you been wearing them with?
“I wore them with tank tops, wife beaters. A cute Calvin Klein sweater. Big heels. My Tara Subkoff for Easy Spirit half-boots.”

Who are some of your favorite designers?
“I love everything from vintage to Heatherette. I throw it all together and somehow it works out. I’m into Thierry Mugler-type deals, Chanel, Lanvin. You never know what I’m gonna do. As for jeans, I like Edun – they’re pretty comfy. Michael H. – they’re really unique. And Immortality, a new brand where each pair of jeans is named after a goddess. I’m into Venus and Eros, which has crystal belt loops. Basically, my style is kind of rocker chick with an edge – I like clothes that aren’t plain and simple.”

What are some of your favorite vintage shops in NYC?
“What Goes Around Comes Around – I’ve gotten amazing fur jackets from there. Amarcord, next to Heatherette headquarters. They have great coats, hats, and sunglasses. Fabulous Fannies is incredible for funky, vintage glasses. I’m obsessed with that store. Right now I wear big black Prada glasses to read with, but it would be fun to get a cool vintage reading pair.

Get It:
R&R Scorpion jeans in Xenon wash, $235, bergdorfgoodman.com

What Goes Around Comes Around, nyvintage.com

Amarcord, 84 E. 7th St., NYC; (212) 614-7133

Fabulous Fannies, 335 E. 9th St., NYC; (212) 533-0637


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Denim Road-Test: Genetic Denim
Jamie-Lynn Sigler
Does Some Testing

Finally, after 16 absurdly-long months, The Sopranos returns to television this Sunday night, and if you’re Jamie-Lynn Sigler -- who plays mafia princess Meadow Soprano -- you’ve already started celebrating. (And we did spot Sigler getting pretty wily at Stereo last Saturday night.)

But the 24-year-old Long Island native (who, by the way, has no Italian blood in her -- rather Cuban, Jewish, and Greek) has extra reason to be amped. She also scored the role of everyone’s favorite madam in the made- for-TV movie Going Down: The Rise and Fall of Heidi Fleiss, which airs later this month. And she’s single again.

So, who better than Sigler to slide into a pair of smoking-hot jeans and run around town, road-testing them for us? We had her try some dark, boot-cut jeans from Genetic Denim, a six-month-old brand started by nightclub impresario Scott Sartiano (Butter, G Spa & Lounge), and his fellow Olsen-twin-ex-boyfriend, Ali Fatourechi. Yet, as Sigler attests, the two media-friendly fellas can also cut a mean pair of pants. Take into account, though, that Sigler has lately been getting kinda cozy with Sartiano.

We hear you love the Genetic jeans?
“They’ve become my absolute favorite in my closet right now. It's hard to find jeans that have a nice fitted look that don't stretch out after one or two wears, but Genetics don’t. They keep their nice tight fit. The wash that I have is really good and dark, so I can dress them up or down. Ali Fatourechi really knows what he is doing with the design and fit.”

What other jeans do you like?
“I really like Rock and Republic, Paper Denim, and True Religion.”

Where have you worn them?
“I wear them EVERYWHERE. I wore them with flip-flops and a cute top shopping one day. I also wore them with a Louis Verdad top and heels to the Escada Pacific Paradise fragrance launch party in LA. I wear them more than any other jeans…maybe 3 or 4 times a week.”

What are your NYC hangouts?
“I love Level V, Marquee, Butter, Bungalow 8, and now G Spa & Lounge, but I really don’t go out that much. [ed. note: yeah, right]. And to eat, I love Nobu, Barca 18, Dos Caminos, and Pizza 33 for late night!”

What else are you working on besides Sopranos?
“I did three movies last year -- Lovewrecked with Amanda Bynes, Chris Carmack and Johnathon Bennet; Under My Skin with Donald Faison, Whoopi Goldberg, Paul Mooney, Tony Rock and Joey Fatone; and a horror movie called Dark Ride.

Also, I have started up my foundation, which, for lack of creativity, is called The Jamie-Lynn Sigler Foundation. I work in conjunction with the National Eating Disorders Association. Our hope is to bring awareness and attention to eating disorders, and our major goal is to raise funds to get federal support for eating-disorder treatments to be covered by insurance. Right now, we have charm bracelets and necklaces being sold exclusively at Claire's and Icing stores across the country, to support the foundation. They have been in stores for two months and have sold out! So we are on our way, hopefully.”

Get It:
Genetic Denim, $198, for stores, geneticdenim.com

See It:
The Sopranos airs on HBO Sunday, March 12th at 9pm

Going Down: The Rise and Fall of Heidi Fleiss airs on USA, Monday, March 29 at 9 p.m. ET

For more on the Jamie-Lynn Sigler Foundation, jamielynnsiglerfoundation.org

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Denim Road-Test: Loomstate
Paz de la Huerta Slips into Something More Comfortable

“Anything that’s sexy,” was the simple request of Paz de la Huerta for a pair of jeans to road-test.

What she got were a pair of long, lean, baby-blue Loomstate jeans that fit her perfectly. “I like these,” she cooed, as she slipped them on and struck shirtless poses in the mirror.

Yet, a few days later, the jeans were long gone, and the 21-year-old actress was sprawled on a couch at her aunt Vicki’s New York loft, where she stays when in town from L.A. She was wearing a black strapless tube mini-dress, wide-striped velvet stockings, a fitted silver Zac Posen jacket, and freshly curled hair. “I don’t understand the whole jeans phenomenon,” she said. “Jeans are for dirty work, like gardening or rolling in the mud.”

She’d rather talk about the role she’s currently working on: “My character is self-destructive and sad,” says the native New Yorker, who’s been acting since the age of 5. The film, called Anamorph, is directed by Henry Miller. And her role calls for all love scenes with no lines.

She’s based the character’s look on Maria Schneider’s in Last Tango in Paris, with wide-brimmed hats and big hair. “It’s for aesthetics only. If my boyfriend in the movie were more manly, then maybe it’d be more emotional.” And, when not acting, she takes poetry classes at the Writers’ Workshop, or spends hours at the Equator Bookstore, where she recently snapped up a first-edition book by one of her literary heroes, Anais Nin.

As for the jeans, she liked that they had “a classic fit,” matching her chilled-out West Coast look -- like the old, torn Levi’s she wears to ride her bike to the beach, or to Venice’s “sexiest” restaurant, Axe.

Paz wore her new Loomstates with a vintage, gray moth-holed Sonia Rykiel sweater belonging to her aunt Mosa, and high-heeled motorcycle boots. She donned them for an appointment at Beautiful Hair, on the Lower East Side’s Clinton St. “They’re cheap, and they know how to handle my hair. And they’re Spanish, so they understand me,” she says. “My hairdresser Kimberly and I talked about birth control and sex.”

~Sara Costello

Get Yours:

Loomstate Flux jeans, in Mist wash, $170. For store locations, loomstate.org

Axe, 1009 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice Beach, L.A.; 310-664-9787

Equator Bookstore, 1103 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice Beach; equatorbooks.com

Beautiful Hair, 20 Clinton St., NYC; 212-673-3543

Check out this fall/winter’s VMan magazine, in which Paz poses for Mario Sorrenti at the Turkish Baths in the East Village. She’s not wearing jeans (or anything else).

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Denim Road-Test: AG Jeans
NASCAR’s Stanton Barrett Takes a Pit-Stop To Talk Charity and Denim

For a man who’s spent the past 17 years as a Hollywood stuntman, and the last 15 as a racecar driver, Stanton Barrett is a surprisingly mellow dude. In fact, with his floppy blond hair, California good looks, and laid-back demeanor, Barrett, 33, seems more like a dreamboat ski instructor than a man who spends his life risking it. He’s also a pretty big softie. On his downtime, he devotes himself to children’s charities such as Snowfrog, an educational website for kids he created himself, and The Hole In The Wall Gang Camp, his godfather Paul Newman’s getaway for children with serious illnesses. “My passion is kids,” he says simply.

But then, Barrett begins describing his day job. Like the time he was jumping building tops on a motorcycle for the film Cradle 2 The Grave. “The camera attached to my bike broke, and I fell 20 feet down – broke 11 bones in my left foot.” Or the time he gunned the General E. Lee right over a river for the recent Dukes of Hazzard film. “The guy hired to drive the car was sick that day.” Or the time… well, there are about 150 such terrifying -- albeit exhilarating -- stunts, and you realize that it takes an inherently mellow and thoughtful man to be able to properly handle them.

“Yeah, it gets your attention,” is his general opinion of stunt work.

Then, there’s the stock car racing, which, career-wise, is Barrett’s true love. He’s just left New York, where he’s recently bought an apartment on the Bowery, to head down to Daytona 500, where driving 200 mph is the norm, and crashing, a mere occupational hazard. “Everyone crashes,” says Barrett with a shrug. (While there, he’ll also squeeze in the time to shoot a fashion spread for L’Uomo Vogue).

The need for speed runs in the family: Barrett’s father, Stan Barrett, drove for the legendary Skoal Bandit racing team, owned by Burt Reynolds, Hal Needham, and Paul Newman. He also, in December of 1979, drove the first land vehicle through the sound barrier. His top speed clocked in at 739 mph, or Mach 1.01. And Barrett’s mother, Penny McCoy, was an Olympic and U.S. Ski Team member; and, at the age of 15, the youngest woman to win a medal for the U.S. World Cup Ski Team.

However, Barrett’s rugged, slightly offbeat sense of style is something he’s acquired on his own. Like his penchant for Donald Pliner shoes, in particular a pair of red and brown leather saddle shoes. “My brother gave them to me for my birthday,” he says of them. “They’ve become by favorite pair.” Or his Adriano Goldschmied jeans: He discovered the denim brand three years ago at Dungarees, a friend’s clothing shop on Ventura Blvd, and now has an estimated 12 pairs. “I wear them everyday,” he says. “I really like the style and cut.” He has pretty much every style AG has on the market, including their cords and suede jeans. Yet, it’s a pair of generously boot-cut Fillmore jeans that are his favorite. “They were dark, but now they’re all faded. And they’re all messed up and have holes that look like acid dripped on them…I’m not really sure what that’s from.” Probably just the fallout of living the daredevil life.

Be Like Barrett:

AG Fillmore jeans, $145-$197, neimanmarcus.com

Get more info on NASCAR, nascar.com

Check out his educational website for kids, snowfrog.us and his latest venture yippeenet.com

And learn more about The Hole in the Wall Gang Camp at holeinthewallgangcamp.org

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Denim Road Test: Paper Denim & Cloth
Fashion's Newest Model Citizen Likes Em Dark

It didn’t take Alyssa Miller long to make a name for herself. Modeling for only nine months now, the 16-year-old L.A. native and German/Irish/Native American mix has already scored editorials in Bazaar, W, The NY Times Magazine, and all the major Vogues, including the cover of the Italian edition. And with her pillowy lips, wild dark mane, and eyebrows like inchworms doing down-dog, she also made a major impression on Stella McCartney, who cast her in this past fall’s ad campaign. Yet, as high-fashion as her career is, Miller’s daily uniform at home consists of jeans, T-shirts, and Marc Jacobs flats.

I don’t really go out, so I like to be casual,” she explains of her low-key, off-duty lifestyle, which consists of hanging out with her boyfriend, Chris (they’ve been together for a year and a half) and listening to Led Zeppelin and Finnish goth rock band H.I.M. “They’re pretty much my favorite band ever,” she gushes. She also likes watching Seinfeld and Viva la Bam, but only because she loves Bam Margera.

Taking into account the ying and yang of young Miller’s life, we gave her a pair of skinny, black Paper Denim & Cloth “Cin” jeans to road-test. When we finally caught up with her, she’d already worn them to Paris for a Numero shoot and back, and was running around New York on pre-fashion week castings in them.

What do you think of the jeans?
They’re different from what I’m used to. They have a slim leg, but they’re a little looser than the skinny, tight styles, like from Miss Sixty, that I usually wear. But I like them. They’re really comfortable and casual.

Word is, your boyfriend also tried them on. What did he think of them?
Yeah, he wears my jeans all the time. He liked them, but they were too small on him.

What have you been wearing them with?
Mostly T-shirts and my Converse or Keds sneakers. Sometimes with this beautiful Roland Mouret red jacket that I have. I love his designs – they’re so interesting; they’re more like art than anything. And I wear a lot of Marc Jacobs, of course.

What do you think of the color of the jeans?
They’re actually the only pair of black jeans I’ve ever had. It’s weird, I know. But I usually wear dark blue jeans. So these were really different for me. They’re really cool, though. They make me want to get another pair of black jeans.

Get Yours:

Paper Denim & Cloth “Cin” jeans in Eclipse, $188. For retail locations, paperdenim.com

H.I.M, Dark Light, $13.99, amazon.com

Alyssa’s photo by Daniele Kim
Italisan Vogue photo by Alex Cayley

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DENIM ROAD-TEST: Earnest Sewn
6-Year-Old Mingus Reedus Hits the Playground

When it comes to New York’s elitist crowds—be they film or fashion—access is everything. Having favorable genetics doesn’t hurt either. Mingus Lucien Reedus happens to be blessed with both, but he really couldn’t care less.

The son of actor/filmmaker Norman Reedus (“Boondock Saints”) and Danish model/photographer Helena Christensen, Reedus is no stranger to the high-fashion and Hollywood scenes; he attended his first fashion show with his mother at the age of 3. Yet, now six years old and highly individual, he much prefers reptiles to any runway or red carpet.

Despite his disregard for fashion, Reedus (who’s named after “that music player Mingus”) was more than happy to break from his usual after-school activities—SpongeBob SquarePants movies and playing with his cat—and road-test a pair of Earnest Sewn kids’ jeans called Lit’l Earnie. Unfortunately, as a result of Reedus being extremely tall for his age, the jeans fit more like Capri pants. Length complications aside, Reedus had plenty to divulge on what Lit’l Earnie attributes he did like, as well as his future career plans:

What do you like about the jeans?
“I like that they look cool and are my favorite color, blue. They have special pockets where the rubber [from the pit at the school playground] comes in each day.”

What do you usually wear with them?
“Cool stuff like shirts with dragons, or my army green Rodeo Robot hat, and SpongeBob underwear.”

If you could do anything, what would you do?
“I would go to the Museum of Natural History and stay there for a whole week, and then go to the zoo for a half-week. I want to be the boss of the whole school -- no, the whole city. And then I’m gonna tell my dad, ‘Hey Daddy, I want 20 ice creams a day.’”

Who do you look up to the most?
“My dad and my mom.”

What do you want to be when you grow up?
“A man that hunts after animals, tarantulas, and things like that. I like going places where there are lots of lizards. That’s it. I’m done.”

~Alisa Gould-Simon

Get Yours:

Earnest Sewn Lit’l Earnies, $145, available at revolveclothing.com
Grown ups can get their own at earnestsewn.com

Mingus Photo by Norman Reedus

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Denim Road-Test: Acne’s
Kirsten Dunst Won’t Take Hers Off

Compared to the corsets and ballgowns she wears in Sofia Coppola’s highly-anticipated film Marie-Antoinette (ensembles so elaborate they take half-an-hour to put on), Kirsten Dunst’s day-to-day style is decidedly more low-key. On the red carpet, she prefers easy, feminine “frocks,” as she calls them, like Chloe and Christian Lacroix cocktail dresses, or lacy Chanel gowns. Off the red rug, it’s a mix of high and low, like rolled-up mini-shorts worn with Mayle blouses, or vintage dresses paired with Marc Jacobs flats. And always lots of denim, which she admits to wearing every other day.

“It’s intuitive,” she explains of her bed-headed, boho-chic style, semi-inspired by two of her favorite bands, The Cure and Rilo Kiley.

Despite the fact that her favorite jeans are a dark, baggy pair from Sippie, we decided to give her some skinny-legged “Hex Pure” jeans from Acne (a favorite brand of Sofia Coppola’s) to try out. Knowing her penchant for denim, and figuring the ultra-cool drainpipe style was right up her alley, we thought she’d give them a good road test. We weren’t wrong.

“I wore them everywhere,” she admits, rattling off a few locales: “To guest-DJ for friends at Teddy's… to eat at M Café, a macrobiotic place I’m in love with.” We even spotted a paparazzi shot of her in Allure, pairing the jeans superbly with a pussycat-bow Chanel blouse, and strappy white Marc Jacobs flats, which she also wears everywhere.

Other accessories she’s never without? Her jet-black Toyota Prius with tinted windows, her Trader Joe’s Chai tea, and a pack of Parliament Light cigarettes. Because she’s blessed with dewy skin, which runs in the family (her mother owns the Los Angeles spa, Belle Visage), she can go without makeup. For nights out, however, it’s all about Delux Beauty, a line created by her friend, makeup artist Jillian Dempsey. Her favorite product? The iridescent, long-lasting, waterproof lip gloss, which just hit stores.

~Meredith Craig

Get Yours:

Acne Jeans, $180-$250. For a list of stores, acnejeans.com

Teddy’s, located in The Hollywood Roosevelt, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., L.A, (323) 466-7000

M Café de Chaya, 7119 Melrose Ave., L.A, (323) 525-0588; mcafedechaya.com

Delux Beauty, at sephora.com

Belle Visage, 13207 Ventura Blvd., Studio City; (818) 907-0502; bellevisage.com

Dunst in Hex Pure Acne Jeans Photo via Kirsten-Dunst.org

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Denim Road Test: Craig Robinson
Reich 'n' Roll In Stage-Worthy Attire

For years, Craig Robinson’s name has been synonymous with sexy, slightly gangsterish three-piece tailored suits – the kind that give his devoted rock ‘n’ roll clients like Interpol, Kasabian, Calla, Franz Ferdinand, and Death Cab For Cutie a little added stage-swagger. But long before the New Mexico native started custom-crafting such gentlemanly attire, he was just a jeans designer.

“That’s how I got started,” he explains. “Had a little shop on Route 66. Worked with super-heavy 14-ounce denim, the kind used back in the Gold Rush. Did pretty well.”

That was a decade ago. Aside from his current location (he now has an elegant atelier on Fifth Avenue), not much has changed in the way he designs his jeans. He still works with sturdy, raw denim. Still cuts his signature slim silhouettes with a slight ‘70s flare. Still prefers to forego back pockets for a streamlined trouser-like aesthetic (although there is a “Quad” style with four pockets, including two in the rear). And he still champions horizontal, straight-line ‘bison’ front pockets – “they come from the word ‘kiss’ in French,” he explains. “Because the two sides look like they’re kissing.”

And still, stylish musicians find Robinson’s impeccably-tailored denim pants second-to-none.

“They’re the only jeans I wear,” admits Ezra Reich, the 27-year-old lead singer of his eponymous New Wave Cabaret act. “Except on stage,” he adds. “I never wear jeans to play a show – it’s just too purely rock ‘n’ roll.” Inspired by David Lynch films, and Helmut Newton photographs, Reich’s show attire is a bit more unconventional, and “colorful,” as he puts it. For instance, the “very Vivienne Westwood” electric-blue Craig Robinson jumpsuit he sported during his U.K. tour last month. “It’s stretchy,” he shrugs, attempting to explain its appeal.

However, his daywear is decidedly more low-key. Dressed in a vintage black leather jacket from the now-defunct thrift shop Cheap Jack’s, battered Italian leather boots, and a white dress shirt and dark pair of jeans courtesy of Robinson, Reich plays the part of the 1970s hustler-styled indie-rock musician well.

Any old jeans just wouldn’t do: “I’m into the fact that Craig’s jeans are tight with a flare,” says Reich. “It’s a vintage-y cut, but unlike vintage, the denim is stiff – which is good, because I wear my clothes hard.”

Get Yours:

Craig Robinson jeans, $315, available at Eva, 227 Mulberry St., NYC; (212) 925-3208 For more info on Craig Robinson or to schedule a fitting appointment, check out craigrobinsonnyc.com

Listen To Ezra Reich’s music at ezrareich.com
See him perform next on February 16th at Fat Baby, 112 Rivington St., NYC; (212) 533-1888; fatbabynyc.com

Ezra Reich photos by Alisa Gould-Simon

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Denim Road-Test: Citizens Brand
Sarah Sophie Flicker Thinks Earls Are Fancy-Pants

Depending on how you look at it, filmmaker and Citizens Band co-founder Sarah Sophie Flicker would either be the best or worst person to road-test a pair of jeans: Not only does she prefer not to wear them, but on the rare occasion she dons a pair, she regards it as a bit of a fashion failure. “If I’m wearing jeans, it’s as though I’m admitting defeat,” claims Flicker in a girly, soft-spoken tone that compliments her Clara Bow-like features. “Because I really like to dress up. I always have. Even as a child I didn’t like to wear pants. And I never wore jeans during high school.”

There are certain exceptions, though, to her no-jeans rule. Like when she travels, which she does often with Citizens Band, the vaudevillian troupe of political activists that most recently performed at Art Basel in Miami. Or when she’s doing something in nature, like hiking. “Then, I like to be comfortable,” she explains, noting that her three-year-old Chloe jeans or recently-acquired Citizens of Humanity pair do the trick.

So, when we gave her a pair of inky-blue, straight-fit Earl Jeans to try out, it was more of a joke than an actual experiment. Little did we know, the little lady would actually wear them for the dressiest night of the year – New Year’s Eve.

“It’s really funny, I know,” she laughs, recalling the night in Tokyo. Not surprisingly, the jeans weren’t her first outfit choice. She, in fact, wanted to wear a dress. But having jumped over to Tokyo from Thailand (where she and her husband, film director Jesse Peretz, were celebrating their long-overdue honeymoon), Flicker hadn’t anticipated cold weather. “I didn’t bring any tights or anything,” she explains. “They were the only warm-ish thing I had.”

“But the restaurant we were going to has a dress code,” she continues. “And I was worried that they wouldn’t allow jeans. So I wore them with a vintage sparkly blouse and cardigan, and a pair of sparkly Miu Miu shoes, and it was fine. Everyone thought they were black pants. And my husband thought I looked really good, and because they’re slim and super-dark, I actually felt really dressy in them!”

It wasn’t the first time Flicker felt good in a pair of Earls. As she tells it, “I really like Earl. I always have. Years ago, before they were really big, my best friend was their fit model. They were the first jeans I liked because they fit a woman’s body really well. I don’t do well in boys’ jeans. But Earl really gets the curves of a lady. And they’re super-comfortable. Believe me, it’s not the last time I’m gonna wear them!”

Get Yours:

Earl 88 Straight Fit jeans in Mustang, $149, available at earljean.com

Check out Citizens Band when they perform at Deitch Projects in NYC in March. For more information, deitch.com

More on Sarah’s films thebellesoftheblackdiamondfield.com

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Denim Road Test: Paper Denim & Cloth
Actress Ivana Milicevic Falls in Love

“First of all, I haven’t taken them off since I got them,” admits actress Ivana Milicevic of the new slim-legged Paper Denim & Cloth jeans we gave her to road test almost two weeks ago. Her search for the perfect skinny pair (which previously included testing out several Swedish brands), led her to believe that “they’re mostly for girls whose thighs are the same size as their calves. These are awesome because they’re tapered on the bottom, but they’re not denim leggings.”

The Bosnia-born actress, whose first big-screen break was playing Tom Cruise’s ex-girlfriend in Jerry Maguire, has been in New York the past few months filming the upcoming CBS comedy series Love Monkey. And the Paper Denim’s turned out to be the perfect rock ‘n’ roll wardrobe for her character, Julia Nixon, who works at a record label. When the show airs at the end of January, her character can be seen rocking them with boots and an orange tank top.

Milicevic also wore them with green Miu Miu patent leather pumps and a Marc Jacobs sweater for a sushi dinner at Bond Street with her friend Poodle. Then to the SNL after-party for host Jack Black. Then to Bungalow 8, with a late-night stop at Joe’s Pizza.

Now, back in L.A. -- her hometown for the past 12 years -- Milicevic is spending her holiday break kicking back in her usual chic hippie-skater look: American Apparel camis, Ugg Boots, and, now, her Paper Denim’s. “I prefer the lifestyle in L.A,” she says, while making an Acai Berry smoothie. “I’m always more scared of leaving the house in New York than I am in L.A. Poodle makes sure I look okay, and she loved the jeans and thinks I need another pair.” Wink, wink…

When Milicevic heads back to New York to continue filming, she plans on bringing her Tundra Gear Russian hat and Sorell winter boots: “New York for me is all about staying warm.”

~Sara Costello

Get Yours:

Paper Denim & Cloth ‘Mod Eclipse’ straight-legged jeans (cut to look tapered), $188, shopbop.com

See Milicevic in Love Monkey -- premieres January 17th at 9pm on CBS.

Check out Milicevic’s favorite NYC spots:
Freeman’s (end of Freeman’s Alley; 212-420-0012) “Go for their mac and cheese.”
The Pink Pony (178 Ludlow St; 212-253-1922) “I sat here once for six hours with friends.”
60 Thompson (60 Thompson St.; 877-431-0400) “I love the hot toddies.”

More Ivana Milicevic imdb.com

Paper Demim, paperdenim.com

Self Portrait
Denim photo via courtesy of shopbop.com

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Denim Road-Test: Gloria Vanderbilt
The Daughter of GV Jeans’ Founder Gives Them a Go

New York-based accessories designer Malini Murjani was too young to wear Gloria Vanderbilt’s iconic skin-tight stretch jeans back in their ‘70s heyday, but she remembers how her mother – who was then the brand’s fit model – used to lie on the bed in order to zip them up. “She looked so cool in them,” she recalls with a laugh.

In fact, it was Murjani’s mother who initially came up with the idea for the Gloria Vanderbilt jeans. As she tells it: “My parents were in Paris, and my mom fell in love with these McKeen jeans, which -- unlike most women’s jeans at the time -- were actually fit for a woman. They weren’t re-interpreted men’s jeans. They hid the hips and flattered the body.”

Murjani’s father, who was in the family business of manufacturing denim (including Calvin Klein’s) and owned the license for Gloria Vanderbilt blouses, took the advice of his wife, and launched the now-legendary jeans. To this day, Murjani Corporation still owns the worldwide rights (the U.S. is the sole exception) to the Gloria Vanderbilt brand.

Obviously, design is in Malini’s blood. After graduating from FIT, the London native launched her own illustrious empire – a line of exquisitely artful handbags and belts pieced together from exotic skins (such as python and horse hair) and stones (like agate), and praised by every fashion bible from Italian Vogue to Harper’s Bazaar.

“I love contrast, and the idea of mixing aesthetics,” she explains of her collection. “I love wearing simple basics like jeans and a white tank top, and pairing it with some crazy, amazing bag or belt.”

Currently, Earnest Sewn boot-cuts are her jean of choice, which she wears with ankle boots or tucked into knee-high’s, and paired with a Chloe or Louis Vuitton blouse. Ironically, before we gave her a pair of Gloria Vanderbilt jeans (which re-launched last season with a stellar ad campaign featuring Kate Moss, Gisele, and Daria Werbowy) she had yet to test them out. We asked her a couple key questions:

So what do you think about the re-launch of the GV jeans? “I think it’s really cool. It’s exciting to see something from the ‘70s and ‘80s make a full circle.”

What did you think of them? “It’s funny to wear them. You feel pretty retro with that swan logo. It’s kinda funky. The feel of the fabric is great; they’re very comfortable. And the dark wash is cool – I love the gold stitching as well. But the cut isn’t right for me. They fit well on the leg, but they’re too high-waisted. They make my butt look elongated. I guess if you’re not used to a high waist -- and I’m not -- it’s weird. I didn’t really feel sexy in them. I didn’t feel like Kate Moss or anything.”

Get Yours:

Gloria Vanderbilt jeans come in 3 styles: the classic “Audrey,” the capri “Andrea,” and the bootcut “Gloria.” All are $48. For a list of stores that sell them: gloria-vanderbilt.com

For more info on Malini Murjani accessories: malinim.com


What’s on Malini’s holiday wish-list:

Chanel tweed jacket, $4300, chanel.com for locations. “I’m not really a Chanel girl, but I would love to wear one dressed down with a pair of jeans.”

Garrard diamond angel wing pendant, $5200, available at Jeffrey New York, (212) 206-3928. “I tend to like the most expensive things in the store.”

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Denim Road-Test: Kicking Mule
JT Kicks Ass

JT Leroy -- the acclaimed author and all-around man-of-mystery -- doesn’t really like jeans: “Most of them are too stiff on me. I am a delicate flower,” he explains. Even working as a writer on the set of HBO’s Wild West drama “Deadwood,” where, as he puts it, there are a “lotta cowboys in a lotta jeans around here,” hasn’t swayed his anti-denim opinions. Rather, he sticks to cozier cowboy gear: “I like flannel… and I’ve been wearing a lot of jodhpurs lately.”

Gung-ho on changing his feelings, we sent him a pair of Kicking Mule Workshop jeans, which are made from Japanese selvedge, styled around classic American fits, and feel like your favorite vintage jeans.

And, yeah, we’ve read all the conspiracy theories that suggest Leroy doesn’t exist. We decided to buck ‘em. Suffice it to say, whoever received the Kicking Mules -- and we do believe it was Leroy -- thought they were pretty kick-ass. In his own words:

“Kicking Mule, love the name. I am glad they didn't call them Barfing Mule, or worse still, Kicking Ass – then nobody could wear them, no matter how swell they are. It would be stating the obvious, coz these jeans somehow do make the buttocks kick. And they know it, so this is clever subliminal coding.

“And what is the point of jeans anyway? I mean if your thighs are fat, they ain’t gonna look any thinner really. They might kinda hold in your belly, but it will be obvious that there is some corset action being annexed. And the quality jeans don't do that. They are soft in texture -- they ain’t using material that is advantageous for hauling potatoes, which will bind your belly in.

“These Kicking Mules will yield to your curves. The pair I got had a really rich lush dark pigment – not vat-factory-dyed. The stitching on the pockets swirls loopy…like my signature when loaded. But again… all this is beside the point. Somehow when it comes to the tushie, these jeans get proactive. They mold and shape, shift and lift, and do what they say… they make your ass kick.”

What he wore them with: “My Calvin Klein boxers”

Where he wore them: “My favorite SF restaurant, Aziza (5800 Geary Blvd., San Francisco; 415-752-2222). And I ate too much but they are so yielding; I wasn't in pain.”

Get Yours:

Kicking Mule Workshop jeans, $220-225, available at Ron Herman in L.A. (310-550-0910) and Odin (212-475-0666) in NYC. For more info, kickingmuleworkshop.com

JT Leroy’s books -- Sarah, The Heart Is Deceitful Above All Things, and Harold’s End, are all available on amazon.com

Stuff that stocking with Raccoon Penis Bones! On JT’s website, they’re described as “sexual amulets, used from Texas to Appalachia to enhance sexual performance.” $17 a bone and they come autographed by JT, available on jtleroy.com

Or, for the kids, get an autographed whiffle ball, $8, available on jtleroy.com

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Denim Road Test: Michael H
Video-Game Guru Wants To Be Like Mike

Lyonel Tollemache has a job most teenage boys dream of: As Promotions Director of Rockstar Games, and a driving force behind Grand Theft Auto: San Andreas, Midnight Club 3: Dub Editions, and The Warriors, the 32-year-old London native gets paid big bucks to talk endless shop about stealing cars, beating people up, and getting busy with prostitutes -- common occurrences in a Rockstar video game.

“My job’s amazing – I love it,” says Tollemache, who’s working on a cross-promotion with streetwear labels like SSUR, Supreme, and Alife for a limited-edition line of Warriors T-shirts and hoodies.

And, like most folks in the entertainment biz, his daily uniform doesn’t get more dressy than a T-shirt or hooded sweatshirt paired with Rogan jeans or one of several Levi’s Engineered’s he scored in Paris six years ago.

“I pretty much live in those,” he admits. “Really it’s all about jeans for me as I work in a casual environment, so I get to wear them all day and all night. But, having said that…you can’t beat a good English tailor making you a suit. I kind of wish I could wear one more often.”

Meeting Tollemache’s sartorial wants halfway, we had him test-drive a pair of Michael H. jeans, which -- despite being rocker-driven -- are perhaps the most elegant-looking jeans we’ve ever laid eyes on.

What do you think of the Michael H’s?
“Let’s just start by saying these jeans are great. Unlike most that I own, they’ve got an amazingly expensive feel to them -- which is not to say you couldn’t wear them anywhere. It’s really hard to find the right pair -- color, fit, etc.-- so when I do, I tend to buy a few. These jeans are possibly, by a fraction, a tiny bit too wide at the bottom for my personal taste, but they’re so damn comfortable to wear and the color’s great, that it really doesn’t matter. The velvet waistband finish on the inside of the jeans takes them to another level, and makes them stand out in detail, style and comfort.”

Where did you wear them? Mostly in the city [NYC], either at work or just out and about. Went to dinner at Il Buco one night, and drinks at Double Seven another. Went to Hiro ‘til the early morning another time. There’s no reason why you can’t wear these anywhere you want. That’s what jeans are supposed to be, no?

What did you wear them with? Mostly T-shirts and hoodies, chilling…but also jackets. I think you call them blazers here. I don’t remember anything looking or feeling strange with these.

Get Yours:

Michael H jeans, $175-$230, at Fred Segal in L.A., Atrium in New York, and Harvey Nichols in London.

Look out for the limited-edition Warriors T-shirts and hoodies, hitting NYC stores including SSUR (212-431-3152), Alife (212-375-8128), and Supreme (212-966-7799) in time for the holidays.


Go There:

Il Buco, 47 Bond St., NYC; (212) 533-1932

Double Seven, 418 W. 14th St., NYC; (212) 981-9099

Hiro, 366 W. 17th St., NYC; (212) 727-0212

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Denim Road Test: It’s All in the Details
Couture-Doll Outfitter Tries On a New Atelier

Jason Wu’s fashion designs might be of Lilliputian proportions, but they have, nonetheless, caused a global sensation. The 23-year-old’s Fashion Royalty collection of couture-clad dolls, which was launched by Integrity Toys in 2002, has revolutionized the adult-toy industry, and has given boring Barbie a run for her money. And his recent creation, a RuPaul doll, which touts itself as the first vinyl-molded mini-transvestite, and comes in six different extraordinary stage outfits, has already become a collector’s item, causing quite a sensation in Japan. Next up is a pair of Gastineau Girls dolls, which will make their television appearance on season two of the hit E! show.

“The adult toy industry has really exploded in the past decade. And we’re sort of the Kid Robot for women,” explains the Taipei native and Parsons grad, who at the age of 17 was hired as Creative Director of Integrity Toys. “They didn’t know how old I was – I basically worked from my dorm room,” he divulges.

Now all grown up, Wu is gearing up to launch his own people-size fashion line -- a collection of glamorous women’s eveningwear -- next spring. But when it comes to his own personal style, he’s far more low-key. “I don’t get into wearing wigs or anything,” he jokes. “I like clothes that are clean and casual. My daily uniform is basically Diesel or Blue Cult jeans -- I have about 25-30 pairs -- and a T-shirt from American Apparel. I have their shirts in every color because the fit is amazing.”

Given his love of sophisticated fashion, we had him road-test a pair of Atelier La Durance jeans, which are cut and crafted with a couture sensibility, and have a classic aesthetic. Here are his thoughts on them:

What are your favorite jeans?
These beat-up jeans I got from Diesel Style Lab a little more than a year ago. They are super-low-rise and go with everything from casual to semi-formal. The more beat-up they get, the better I like them!

What do you think of the Atelier La Durance jeans?
I thought they were really unique. I loved the plaid pocket lining detail. I’m not big on complicated washes or seaming on jeans, so I tend to go with the cleaner, more streamlined denim. The cut was a bit wider than what I’d usually wear, but it went great with a fitted white T-shirt with the hem rolled up slightly (they were a bit long on me). They also got softer with each wear.

Where did you wear them?
I wore it to one of my tapings for the “Gastineau Girls” last week. I also wore it out all weekend when I went to Providence to visit friends.

What did you wear them with?
Basic stuff. T-shirt and a hoodie. In the house I wore it with a tank top. Wearing a fitted top with these wider jeans is very flattering since it makes my butt look perkier and my waist smaller.

How have you customized them?
They are being hemmed right now! After a few more wears I’m going to wear them more as low-rises.

Get Yours:

Atelier La Durance jeans, $250-$275, atelierladurance.com

For more info on The Fashion Royalty Dolls, fashionroyalty.com

For more info on the RuPaul Doll, therupauldoll.com

See a preview of Jason Wu’s fashion collection at thewstudio.com

Gastineau Girls Photo By Michael Williams/Everett Collection

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Denim Road-Test: Meltin' Pots
Yelena Yemchuk’s Mystic Style

Yelena Yemchuk’s charm is difficult to pinpoint. It could be the striking pairing of dark curls against pale skin, or the noticeably innocent tone with which she speaks. Perhaps it’s a result of growing up in Kiev, before moving to Brooklyn with her family at the age of 14. Or her status as one of downtown New York’s “It Girls,” alongside pals like model Helena Christensen and filmmaker Maximilla Lukacs. Whatever the reason, it is indeed endearing.

Over the last decade this New York-based artist has made a name for herself as a fashion and fine art photographer, painter, and filmmaker. She has directed videos for the Smashing Pumpkins, and exhibited paintings at New York’s Dactyl Foundation. She has been enlisted to shoot campaigns for Dries Van Noten and Vera Wang, as well as fashion stories for i-D and Japanese Vogue.

Like her art, which is infused with influences that range from Italian neo-realist film to Ukrainian fairy tales, Yemchuk’s style is highly unique. (Except for maybe the Marc Jacobs shoes, which, according to Yemchuk, “ everyone in the world wears.”) It’s a blend of Marni, Mayle, and vintage—some of her favorite pieces being “costume-like” finds from far-off places like Russia and Argentina.

And while Yemchuk’s style can be best described as feminine, when faced with a closet full of jeans from which she could test just one, she opted for a pair of men’s Meltin’ Pot jeans…two sizes too big. For the past two weeks -- on flights to and from Vietnam, Belize, and New York, and all the photo shoots in between -- she’s been road-testing the jeans.

Amidst finishing “Jack of the Bird,” the third in a series of twelve large-scale drawings that are her project du jour, as well as organizing her trip to Paris next week for a Japanese Vogue shoot, this jetsetter found the time to consider all the reasons she loves her Meltin’ Pot jeans.

HB: I’ve heard these jeans had quite a test run.
YY: I wear them all the time. I’ve been taking them everywhere with me. They’re good airplane jeans. I love the way the material feels, the way they fit—oversized, super-comfortable. I’ve even been sharing them with my boyfriend.

HB: How have you personalized them?
YY: I’ve been letting them hang loose, wearing them with T-shirts, sweaters, tennis shoes, flip-flops, depending on the climate. They’re weird-sexy. They suit me; they suit the way I dress. I only own three pairs of jeans—Diesel and Paper. I find a pair I love and then I’ll wear them to death.

HB: What keeps you busy during long layovers or in remote locations?
YY: This year it was everything Murakami ever wrote. I’m also reading The Lives of the Muses: Nine Women & the Artists They Inspired by Francine Prose.

HB: And your own muses?
YY: The men I’m with are always my muses. Annamaria, a friend from Italy, whom I’ve been shooting since I was 19. In New York, it’s Maximilla.

~Alisa Gould-Simon

Get Yours:

Meltin’ Pot jeans, $165, available at meltinpot.com

The Lives of the Muses by Francine Prose, $10.46, and everything Haruki Murakami ever wrote, amazon.com

For more on Yelena, check out her website at yelenayemchuk.com

Dactyl Foundation http://www.dactyl.org/art/artists/yemchuk/yemchuk.html

Photo and painting by Yelena Yemchuk
Yelena on Set by Daniele Kim

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Denim Road-Test: Stitchs
Joy Bryant's Puts This Pair Through The Ringer

Joy Bryant has been wearing her new Stitch “Cherokee” jeans for two days straight, which would be insignificant had it been two ordinary days. But the 29-year-old actress has spent them doing a flurry of press for 50 Cent’s big-screen biopic Get Rich or Die Tryin’, in which she plays Charlene, the rapper’s girlfriend and baby mama.

While she wears her older pair of Stitch jeans in the movie and in a photo with 50 Cent for GQ, she’s worn the spankin’ new baby blues to a shoot for the cover of Paper Magazine, and to do two hours of talk radio for Eminem’s station Shade 45. She chose these jeans the way she chooses all her clothes: “It’s all about how I’m feeling…just easygoing,” she explains with a shrug. “Not like a big to-do. Your style should suit your personality.”

Whether it’s jeans, jewelry from Urban Outfitters (“everyone always thinks it’s from somewhere else,” she admits) or the YSL dress she’s wearing to the film’s L.A. premiere, Bryant has the true gift for making it all -- whether high-style or low -- look effortless.

Since moving to L.A. from New York four years ago, her style has become more about being comfortable with herself: “Some days I want to look like a Keebler elf. I don’t care.”

Elf look aside, today she’s wearing the Stitch jeans with a Vivienne Westwood coat, a Mossimo T-shirt from Target, a wrap cardigan from Urban Outfitters, Michael Kors wedge loafers, and argyle socks. Her day-to-day look is mostly jeans with flats or moccasin boots, and basics from one of her favorite stores, American Apparel: “I love it for cotton pieces. I’ll take a wife beater dress and trick it out. Or the henley T-shirt dress with a belt and leggings, or over jeans.” For night she usually wears a jacket or drapey top from a favorite L.A. designer Karen Zambos: “Her stuff is awesome. She uses vintage fabrics. If it’s not one-of-a-kind then there are only a few of them.”

Of her new Stitch jeans: she likes ‘em. “The cut is perfect. I like the slouchy look: a little bit wider then the boot cut, low in the hips, saggy in the butt. The length is super-long so I can wear them with a heel or platform. And the denim is soft. They’re aged in redwood barrels. And they use buttons that are modeled after antique coins,” explains the actress, who’s actually found the time to do some investigative work. And she’s donned a big customized “Joy” belt buckle – tying it all together effortlessly, as we’ve come to expect.

~Sara Costello

Get Yours:

Stitch’s “Cherokee” low-rise with a slight flare and flap back pockets, $300, available at Barneys and Atrium in New York; Kitson and Ron Herman in L.A. For more info, stitchjeans.com

For more info on Karen Zambos vintage couture: karenzambos.com.

See Joy in Get Rich or Die Tryin’, which hits theaters November 9th.

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DENIM ROAD-TEST: 5EP
Class-Act Jonny Abrahams Braves The Hardest Test Of All

Actor Jonny Abrahams, whose career began 10 years ago when he starred in Larry Clark’s “Kids,” has just about hit the big time. The 28-year-old New Yorker who many would remember as the cute science teacher on Boston Public, is kicking back in The Terrace Suite at New York’s Maritime Hotel (complete with outdoor shower), feet on the coffee table, hip-hop blaring from the radio, describing the treatment for a TV comedy he co-wrote with good pal Ashton Kutcher. And he’s still beaming from the night before, in which -- all dapperly suited up in custom threads -- he strolled the red carpet and partied at the Four Seasons for the premiere of “Prime,” a film he co-stars in alongside Uma Thurman and Meryl Streep.

Not surprisingly, the free designer duds have started rolling in. “Check these out,” he says, putting a pair of Gucci high-tops on the side table for display. “How dope are they?” Equally awesome is the black leather, butter-soft Gucci leather jacket that’s slung over the back of the couch. Paired with a black fedora he had custom-made at Baron Hats in L.A, Abrahams has that designer-does-gangster look down.

Yet, for all the fine-looking clothes in his wardrobe, Abrahams still rocks (“every day of my life”) four grungy pairs of Diesel jeans he bought too long ago to remember. “All I know is that they started out dark,” he says, sadly looking down at the baby blue jeans he’s sporting with a pair of construction boots and a lambswool sweater from Club Monaco.

Knowing that Abrahams has a thing for classic 1940s-style clothing, we tossed him a pair of 5EP jeans, which are co-designed by a former Ralph Lauren RRL jeans designer and a bike customizer and inspired by the work wear of yore:

So, what do you think of them?
I’m psyched about them. I’ve never owned a pair of jeans that cost more than $100. I love these. The cut is perfect – straight, but loose. I’ve needed a pair like these for a long time. They’re real dude’s jeans. (He gets up, dons his fedora, and starts strutting around the suite.) They’re also really comfortable and have a nice ‘denim density.’ And it’s cool that there are no loud logos. You’re gonna see me years from now and be like ‘Is he still wearing those 5EP’s?!’

What do you think of the ‘Dark Worn’ wash?
They have that greenish cast, which – I don’t know – is that from bike grease or something that happens to ironworkers? It’s fine - I’m cool with it. But, to be honest, I prefer a cleaner wash that’s not distressed.

Where are you planning on wearing them?
I’m just chillin’ tonight. Gonna get some sushi with friends downstairs at Matsuri. Not sure, maybe have a little party in the suite. But wait ‘til I get back to L.A…

~Karin Nelson

Get Yours:

5EP jeans, $230-$298. For a list of retailers, check out denimmafia.com

Gucci high-tops, $395, at Gucci stores worldwide

The Terrace Suite, $1400/night, and Matsuri at The Maritime Hotel, themaritimehotel.com

Check out Jonny in Prime, which hits theaters tomorrow. imdb.com

You can also catch him DJ’ing Monday nights at The Roosevelt Hotel (7000 Hollywood Blvd, L.A, 800-950-7667); Wednesday nights at The Dime (442 N. Fairfax, L.A, 323-651-4421); and Sunday nights at Guys (8713 Beverly Blvd, L.A, 310-360-0290)

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DENIM ROAD-TEST: Rogans
Reedus The Fast-Living Actor/Director’s Denim Road Test

Aside from baggy and black, Norman Reedus’ main criterion for jeans is that they be sturdy enough not to rip when he falls down. Not that Reedus – an actor/director – is clumsy. He’s more the sort of guy who often gets into rough ‘n’ tumble situation

Now, mostly recovered from a motorcycle accident in Berlin last February, Reedus has been “super busy” putting the finishing touches on his first short film – a Miles Davis documentary, written while he was in the hospital, and starring a homeless man he found on Hollywood Blvd. (Don't ask.) He’s also gearing up to start directing his first feature in January – a horror film. And he's been acting in a new Harvey Keitel flick, tentatively called “A Crime," in which part of his role entails strolling around New York's Chinatown with two enormous hell-hounds. Not exactly a low-key life.

So, we tossed him a pair of Rogans, figuring the workwear-inspired jeans would work well in his danger-laden daily routine:

So, where’d you wear the Rogans?
To lie in a hotel bed all day while two huge greyhounds licked baby food off my face. They need to get used to me for this film I’m shooting. I also took my kid to school in them.

What did you wear them with?
A Surface 2 Air T-shirt – the dudes live across the hall from me. And a pair of Converse high-tops that are cut in half. They were part of the wardrobe for the insane-asylum extras in this movie I just shot in Moscow called “Moscow Chill.” I also wore them with a pair of soccer cleats I got in New Orleans before it went into the tank.

What do you think of them?
They’re big, which is good. I’m into that. They have that creased, worn-out look, which is fine. It’s kind of the same frayed vibe of a pair of Paper, Denim & Cloth jeans I wear. They’re really soft, almost femininely soft. Which is good to lie in bed in and walk all the way across town, but I wouldn’t want to get in a fight while wearing them. I like the pockets – they’re big. They can hold all my crap – my phone, my wallet, my keys, my cigarettes, my cat.

Your cat?
Maybe not my cat.

~Karin Nelson

Get Yours:

Rogan jeans, $220-$350. For store info: rogannyc.com

Check out Norman's latest work at imdb.com

Visit/Join the Fanclub, normanfan.com

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DENIM ROAD-TEST: Earnest Sewn
James Iha's Blue Heaven

James Iha is a man of particular tastes: Back in the ‘90s, when the Japanese-American, Chicago-native was the guitarist of the seminal music act, The Smashing Pumpkins, it was all about alt rock with a side order of psychedelic. Today, as a record producer (he’s just finished a remix for StellaStarr) and co-founder of Scratchie Records (home to the Swedish band The Sounds and the Motor City trio The Sights), his preference has become more New Wave. As to the décor of his NYC apartment – which has been profiled and praised in several publications including The New York Times -- he likes it gilded and rustic. And when it comes to his clothes, he has an inclination towards the cutting-edge.

Marc Jacobs, avant-garde Japanese label Undercover, and half a dozen slim-fitting pairs of Diesel jeans (he bought them in bulk seven years ago) fill his closet. Art Deco ballroom chairs, oil paintings of dogs, and frescoed walls encompass his eclectic, Bloomsbury-inspired East Village pad, located just off of Little Tokyo. “I don’t want to live in a white room with all perfect angles – that’s no fun,” he explains. “But I like everything else - my clothes, my music – to be modern.”

Enter Earnest Sewn’s Filson jeans, which are cut slim, straight and ultra-modern, but possess a very vintage-looking wash. Curious to see how he’d perceive them (supremely rock ‘n’ roll? Better suited as a wall-hanging in his home? The perfect dog-bed for Sadie, his girlfriend’s Chihuahua?), we sent him a pair to road-test:

Where he wore them:
“To the deli – I needed paper towels and water – and for a walk around the city.” (Iha did, indeed, also bunched them up in our office, to create a makeshift pillow for his pet pooch.)

What he wore them with:
A T-shirt from Arkansas with a wart hog on it. “I like the wart hog – I think he’s cute.” And a pair of black Adidas Sambas with white stripes.

What he thought of the jeans:
“The cut is really good – they’re tailored and slim-fitting. The waist is pretty good too, not too high and not too low. They were way too long though [Ed note: only by an inch], so I had to have them tailored. And I actually really like the wash. It’s vintage, but not pretentious. There aren’t any ridiculous paint-drippings or anything. They’re cool without trying too hard. I’m into them.

~Karin Nelson

Get Yours:

Earnest Sewn Filson jeans, $189, revolveclothing.com

The Smashing Pumpkins’ Greatest Hits, $13.99, amazon.com

The Sounds, “Living in America,” $10.99, amazon.com

The Sights' self-titled album, $13.98, amazon.com

Bloomsbury At Home, by Pamela Todd, $27.50, amazon.com

Join the fanclub, jamesiha.org

Local restaurants where you'll most likely bump into James:
Rai Rai Ken (214 E. 10th St., NYC). He likes their ramen noodles
Mogador (101 St. Mark's Place, NYC). He has a thing for their vegetarian pitas.

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DENIM ROAD-TEST: Siwy
Designer Sari Gueron's Unrivaled Style

“Sometimes I just can’t deal with getting dressed,” admits designer Sari Gueron one Friday afternoon, glancing down at her slouchy army-green pants and A.R.E Weapons band T-shirt. It’s an endearing comment coming from a girl who 99% of the time looks unbelievably chic in that downtown bohemian way: tousled long blond hair, no makeup, wearing one of her signature draped goddess dresses, which have become as imperative now to It Girls’ wardrobes as Diane Von Furstenberg’s wraps were 30 years ago.

Hearing Gueron recall her tomboy youth (“Everything I wore had to be functional and comfortable, like Adidas track pants”) explains a lot about her sense of style. By day it’s all about broken-down vintage jeans -- her favorites are a pair of old, simple Marc Jacobs, which have recently acquired far too many rips -- and by night, easy dresses, casually pulled together with a pair of ballet slippers.

Figuring she had enough dresses, we contributed to her daywear, giving her a pair of Siwy slim-legged jeans to try out. “I’m headed down to Miami this weekend; maybe I’ll make them into shorts,” she suggested.

So, what do you think of the jeans?
I realized the cut is too good to make them into shorts. I rarely find jeans that fit me well, because my legs are skinny, but my hips are wide. But these are great. They’re nice and slim, and the waist is low, but not too low. I’m still not into high-waisted jeans, but I hate when my stomach shows. They’re also really soft and comfortable, and have a good amount of stretch. The butt is a little weird, though. I think the back pockets are too small and too far apart – something’s not right. And the wash is not exactly my thing. I like plain, medium blue, and maybe it’s a Kate Moss thing, but recently I’ve been into dark grey. These could be a bit more subtle. The butt is like white-white, and then it just jumps very unnaturally to dark. I feel like it magnifies the butt.

What did you wear them with?
I always wear long drapey tops with my jeans -- they cover my butt a bit. Usually they’re my own tops, but this time I wore them with a vintage one I bought at Loehmann’s in Miami. But it looks like something I’d design – it’s got scarf ties that hang down from the collar. And then some strappy leather thong sandals my stylist brought back from Brazil.

Where’d you go in them?
This restaurant/lounge called Casa Tua with a friend. I guess it’s the cool new place in town.

Final thoughts? I think when I get back to New York, I’m gonna dye the jeans black – see how they turn out.

~Karin Nelson

Get Yours:

Siwy’s Michelle Slim jeans, $192, available at Fred Segal and Hollywood Trading in L.A.; Atrium and Calypso in N.Y; Villian’s Vault in San Francisco; and Lulu’s in Miami. For more info, siwydenim.com

Casa Tua, 1700 James Avenue, Miami Beach (305) 673-1010

Loehmann's, 7135 SW 117th Ave, Miami (305) 596-5500

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DENIM ROAD-TEST: 575
A Hedge Fund Manager's Wall Street Blues

On paper, Cody Willard couldn’t be more of a suit: He manages his own NYC-based hedge fund, is often quoted in The Financial Times, and regularly appears on CNBC, offering up finance tips. But, in reality, the New Mexico native and self-proclaimed “rock ‘n’ roll artist” wears jeans most of the time. So he happily road-tested a pair of 575s – the L.A. denim brand that’s making waves – three days straight for Handsblue. Here are his thoughts:

Denim – it’s really the only staple I’ve got in my wardrobe. I might be a hedge-fund manager by day, but I remember my roots – I’m the son of a rancher. Heck, I remember my first pair of jeans – Wranglers. And despite having rejected the cowboy culture so dominant in my hometown by the time I was attending elementary school, I wore jeans to school almost every day, all the way through college.

And here I am today, a true urban businessman, still wearing jeans almost every day. In fact, about the only time I bother wearing something besides jeans is when I go on TV to talk Wall Street. They specifically request a suit. Just about any other time, though, whether at Carnegie Hall or at my office in midtown, whether negotiating contracts on Wall Street itself or out in the Meatpacking District – I’m in jeans.

I’d been asked by Handsblue to road test a latest pair of 575s. So I gave a latest of 575s a run through. I wore my 575s to two parties and one day of work over a three-day period. The first was a fashion party in the Meatpacking District. I have an older pair of 575s that has a lot of patches and tears and what not on them -- so many that they almost seem like they “try too hard” to look distressed. This pair, though, is just right. The left knee is worn out just enough and there aren’t too many patches. They just look and feel like a good, high quality pair of worn-in jeans. I felt quite comfortable (even, cool) in the 575s at this party. Though I got no complements on the jeans that night, I was quite pleased with them.

The next day at work, I met with a few Wall Streeter dudes. I tend to stick out on most days of the week when I’m wearing jeans and everybody else is in a suit. But ironically, all those pinstripe suit-wearing Wall Streeters have had quite a denim fascination in their own right this year. As it became increasingly apparent even to the most fashion-challenged financier that denim would be the back to school look of 2005, the Street began grappling with the investment implications of the jeans market. The fact is that there really is a whole lotta denim in the retail stores right now. And it does look like anything that’s not high-end premium, such as True Religion – whose stock has gone up more than 1,000% in the last year, and moved to the Nasdaq stock exchange last month with a market cap of $300 million – is likely to see some steady markdowns.

I wore my blue-chip 575s to a party at a friend’s house in Brooklyn on Saturday night. He works at Google and his wife works at Chanel. I showed up in a black jacket from American Rag in LA, a faded black Corvette T-Shirt from Starstruck Vintage in NYC, these distressed 575s, and black shoes from H Lorenzo in LA. Unfortunately, the party was full of mostly couples and sloppy drunks in ill-fitting clothes, so they didn’t even notice how cool I was.

At some point during a political discussion which I pretended to be a part of, the topic somehow leapt onto the subject of why I was dressed “so cool and fashionably” if I don’t recognize the government’s right to produce a fiat currency. I quietly excused myself and headed out the door.

I gotta’ say, so much random discussion and compliments about my wardrobe while I was wearing these 575s left quite an impression on me. The jeans are very comfortable, fit well, and are apparently eye-catching enough to warrant comments -- mostly positive at that -- from strangers. So I’ll wrap up by giving my 575s a big endorsement: I like ‘em.

~Cody Willard

Get Yours::

575 Denim, $198-$215, 575denim.com

Vintage from Star Struck, 47 Greenwich Avenue, NY, 212.691.5357, and American Rag, 150 S. La Brea Avenue, LA, 323.935.3154

For more from Cody, check out his blog at thecodyblog.blogspot.com

All Photos by Daniele Kim

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DENIM ROAD-TEST: Paige
Inimitable Rocker Melissa Auf der Maur Goes For Classic Comfort

So, how lucky am I to be able to road test free jeans? I got to pick from a great selection, but hands down the winner was Paige. (Paper Denim & Cloth was close behind, but they didn't have my size.) The natural looking fade (not patchy) caught my eye right away.

The comfortable stretch, but not too thin and flimsy, is great. I am not usually a fan of fancy pockets, but they did theirs just right, with leather trim and all. They were a little long, so I would normally get them shortened, but I discovered that this type of denim, nice and stiff, is good for cuff rolling.

This style jean with a bell is great for a small cuff (1-2 inches); some of my other jeans (Miss Sixty) are made from much thinner denim and those I would make a big fat cuff up to the knee. These jeans are great with a cute chunky heel -- nothing too pointy and dressed-up -- and a good pair of striped socks. Stripes and denim are a classic casual look -- could be the ‘40s, ‘80s or now.

My style and taste in clothes (or anything else) has to fit that timeless bill. My favorite items that work casually or a little classy are almost all vintage, with the exception of huge collection of my friend Michelle Mason’s clothes. She makes vintage romantic clothes, but in comfortable stretch fabrics. She’s probably what I wear the most of regularly, besides vintage. In a world and time of way too many fancy, complicated and new jeans, I look for something classic. Something that fits just right for my type of female curves, something not everybody has, and..... free!

I own 20-25 pair of jeans. The only other really comfortable, regularly worn jeans I have are: Miss Sixty jeans and corduroys (a few years old however; the newer styles haven't worked as well for me) and a great pair of Paper Denim & Cloth jeans with a slight stretch and a nice natural fade. However, I must admit, my days of wearing jeans every day have now turned to more mid-length skirts. I have some amazing denim skirts, great vintage Levi knee length skirts with buttons down the front; great for all day, every day.

I had a great time in these jeans today; they’re great for daily comfort wear. I went on a bike ride to my mother’s (and they were comfortable for that), for a Vietnamese lunch with by best friend Steve, and now I am at home with a cup of tea, doing my denim homework.

~Melissa Auf der Maur

Shopping List:

Music:
Auf der Maur has recently relocated to her hometown of Montreal, Canada, where she’s hard at work on her second solo album for Capitol Records. Until then, get “Auf Der Maur,” Melissa’s first solo album, $14.99, amazon.com

Melissa Auf der Maur Offical Site aufdermaur.com

Michelle Mason, 738 E. 3d St., Los Angeles; 213.621.9270
Paige jeans, $170-270, bergdorfgoodman.com

A Film by The Belles of the Black Diamond Field directed by Sarah Sophie Flicker, Maximilla Lukacs. thebellesoftheblackdiamondfield.com

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DENIM ROAD-TEST: Gekko
The Photog Who Has Everything Meets His Match

Fashion photographer Walter Chin has a slight problem: “I collect things – I can’t stop. It’s a disease,” he admits by phone in Malibu where he’s shooting the upcoming Victoria’s Secret “Pink” campaign.

He likens his obsession with luxury goods to “A.D.D. mixed with O.C.D.” And it’s so extreme, he refuses to divulge how many Ferraris he has parked in his garage in Connecticut. (Insiders claim it’s somewhere around seven.) As for watches, he’s got about 65 of them – including several Rolexes, a Cartier, a Patek Philippe chronograph (his favorite), and an Audemars Piguet, which he’s currently sporting.

When it comes to jeans, however, he doesn’t own many -- but the ones he does have, need to be absolutely perfect. Meaning: slim-legged, straight-cut (“boot cut is fine, but I can’t handle flares”), and a medium wash. So far, only Dior Homme, Earnest Sewn, Levis, and some customized Rpm45’s have made the cut.

Taking into account Chin’s strict denim policies, we sent him a pair of Gekko jeans – a new line out of Tokyo -- believing they might have the potential to become part of his wardrobe. Some styles are woven with silver-dipped or even platinum denim fibers (the platinum ones exceed $3,000); less expensive alternatives including silver-colored embellishments on the back pocket. Its no question these jeans are made for collectors with caviar tastes. And they’re slim-legged to boot. We asked him for his feedback:

HB: So, what do you think of the jeans, Walter?
WC: I love the cut. They’re very slimming and straight -- extremely sexy. And they’re really comfortable. But I think the crotch is too long – it should be shorter for guys. And I wish the wash was different. They’re sort of that black-turned-gray color; I’d rather have tested out one of their washed-out blue pairs, since that’s my favorite color and style.

HB: What do the Victoria’s Secret girls think of them?
WC: All the girls love them. Alessandra [Ambrosio] asked if she could have them.

HB: What have you been wearing them with?
WC: I like to dress up my jeans. Dress shoes, dress shirts from Thom Browne. I would never wear a distressed top with them or anything. Right now, I’m headed out to dinner at Matsuhisa with the art director, and I’m wearing them with Yves Saint Laurent shoes and a Dior jacket.

HB: What do you think about the silver-colored detailing on the back pocket - is it too flashy?
WC: I love that part! It’s like an ornament. You have to remember, I drive Ferraris. I’m a flashy guy.

~Karin Nelson

Shopping List:

Gekko jeans,$300-$3200. Embelished Pocket jeans $350 retail available in October at Fred Segal ronherman.com

Walter Chin, “Work in Progress” – his first photo book (“It’s a little bit of everything,” he explains). $26, amazon.com

Look for his new book of nudes entitled “After the Shoot,” which debuts soon.

Nobu Matsuhisa, 129 North La Cienega Blvd. Beverly Hills, 310.659.9639 nobumatsuhisa.com

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DENIM ROAD-TEST: Salt
Nylon's Editor In Chief Marvin Jarrett And His Punk Denim Effect

Marvin Jarrett, the co-founder and editor-in-chief of Nylon Magazine, is a denim freak in the truest sense of the phrase. Case in point: His house in L.A. He’s converted an entire bedroom there into a walk-in closet that contains a collection of nearly 500 jeans. Absurd? Yes, but not unheard of. “Jessica Simpson made a closet out of a bedroom too,” he reasons. But it’s a safe bet to say that Simpson has a few Louis Vuitton cases and designer gear mixed in with her denim Daisy Dukes. In Jarrett's case, the blues rule supreme.

Suffice it to say, Jarrett knows jeans so well he’s written the book on them: three in fact. The coffee-table odes to all things denim – brilliantly titled Genius – are just one of his many side projects. He’s also been hanging out with the boys of the Goth punk band Good Charlotte – directing their documentary, which will premiere at Sundance, as well as the video for their song “Truth.” And, come this fall, he will begin directing a feature-length film, tentatively titled “Valley of the Damned.”

And, yes, he wears jeans to do it all. Along with a t-shirt or hooded sweatshirt from a cool skateboard or quasi-high fashion label, they are his uniform. He picks out five to seven pairs from the 500 and wears them for a two-week stretch, before rotating them back into the collection.

His current favorites are a pair of bleached out “almost white” Hollister jeans he just picked up while in Orange County, California; his custom-designed Earnest Sewn’s, complete with gold-plated hardware; Diesel, his “staple;” and a pair of Hysteric Glamour’s, bought in Tokyo. Proving his depth of denim knowledge, Jarrett explains how Hysteric Glamour jeans possess a tab that sticks out from the back pocket à la Levis: it’s because Japan was one of the few countries where Levis neglected to patent their trademark technique. Bam.

Regardless of the fact that Jarrett doesn’t need another pair of jeans, Handsblue sent him some anyway – figuring if anyone could accurately comment on a cut, wash, and feel of a pair of jeans it’d be this guy.

Finding a pair he’d never worn was a whole ‘nother project.

The Test: Salt Work’s Asphalt jeans

Where He Wore Them: “The first day, I was in L.A. I wore them to the car wash on Sunset Blvd., to In & Out Burger, and then to the recording studio of my friend Josh Abraham. He produced Velvet Revolver and Jared Leto’s band 30 Seconds to Mars. He’s also doing the music for the Good Charlotte documentary. And I’m wearing them again today to the office in New York. I’m going to Lucky Strike in a minute for lunch with Joel Madden, the lead singer of Good Charlotte.”

What He’s Wearing Them With: A Billionaire Boys’ Club t-shirt, some black and green Y-3 sneakers. “I get a ton of compliments on them,” he adds, a diamond machine gun necklace by Justin Davis, and a vintage leather belt from What Comes Around Goes Around.

What He’s Thinks of Salt: “I love the cut. When I get jeans, most of the time they don’t fit right. They’re either too big or too baggy. These are perfect. They have a low-rise and a straight-leg, and really cool oversized belt loops. And the weight and feel of the fabric is great. The only thing I’m not crazy about is the medium wash. I either go for really dark, almost raw denim or completely destroyed. I’m really particular about medium washes.”

Final Thoughts: “I think Lauren Ambrose was wearing Salt on the final episode of Six Feet Under. I recognized the four square logo. That, by the way, is the most amazing TV show on this planet.”

~Karin Nelson

Shopping List:

Salt Works Essex Street Jeans, $175, available at Bloomingdale's, Bloomingdales.com

Y-3 Sneakers, $240, available at Barneys, barneys.com

Good Charlotte, “The Chronicles of Life & Death,” $13.99, amazon.com

Genius, $75, available at Biblio.com

Lucky Strike, 59 Grand Street, 212.941.0479, luckystrikeny.com

Hollister Jeans, $39.50-$59.50, hollisterco.com

Earnest Sewn Custom Jeans at An Earnest Cut & Sew, 821 Washington Street, 212.242.3414, earnestsewn.com

Hysteric Glamour Jeans, $325-$415, available at Tracey Ross, traceyross.com

Diesel Jeans, $150-$250, diesel.com

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