psychoPEDIA: Daily News

Beauty Road-Test: Facial Acupuncture
Following in Gwyneth’s Footsteps to Find a Remedy for Skin In Crisis

I’ve Googled Juvéderm once or twice after contemplating¬ my reflection for an amount of time better left for teenage girls. But the thought of a dermatologist jamming my cheeks until they’re plump with hyaluronic acid dermal filler produces an anxiety that far outweighs the desire to erase smile lines. Of course there’s Botox, which promises to vaporize my frown lines, but unfortunately I have a healthy fear of clostridium botulinum. And anyway, isn’t it at all disturbing that I’d want to erase all evidence of emotion on my face?

In the spirit of holistic medicine (and vanity), I contact Mark Moshchinsky at Tree of Life Acupuncture, and schedule a facial acupuncture appointment, clinging to the hope that this problem can be tackled from the inside out. If Gwyneth and Madonna are fans, there’s a good chance I’ll walk out of the acupuncturist looking younger and prettier.

I arrive at Tree of Life and complete the standard intake forms. Then I meet Mark for our consultation, but first ask him a few questions before volunteering my face as a pincushion.

On the inevitable Botox comparison: Well, I’m not a Botox expert… let’s start with the advantages. It’s quick and the results could be more dramatic than acupuncture. That’s probably it. The disadvantage is that when it wears off, you look a lot older. And there are no health benefits.

Disadvantages of acupuncture: I’ll start with the disadvantages. It’s not as dramatic– that’s basically it. The advantage is, it works on your health. Even if I focus on your face, a lot of organs map out on the face. The liver has to do with eyes, mouth has to do with digestion, and the nose has to do with the lungs.

On visible results: Unless you do some surgical procedure, if you don’t feel well, it always shows on your face. Even if you get Botox, there’s an energy around you. A woman may not be that beautiful, but she’s happy and people cling to her. A lot of the time it has to do with internal energy. You might not always see it, but people feel it. Another advantage is that it’s natural, it’s not as dramatic, but over time you can see that it will help you with stress and all your health issues. A lot of people carry stress on the their face.

How to achieve optimal results: Lines aren’t going to disappear after one visit. A good rule of thumb is 10 to 12 weeks for any course of treatment. Acupuncture can give you a glow–it can happen with even one treatment. It gives you more blood supply and more energy.

Cost comparison: Average acupuncture sessions range from $80 - $120 (generally 10-12 treatments, one every week or two, are necessary). A standard Botox treatment costs anywhere from $350 - $800, and lasts up to 4 months. Restylane lasts a little longer than Botox and there are claims that after a second course of treatment, results can last up to 18 months. (But Botox is still the most popular, with over 5 million injections last year, up from 4.6 million in 2007). (Also of note: Reloxin, a possible Botox rival expected to be approved by the FDA later this year, is currently used in two dozen countries. It will have a lower price tag than Botox, and boasts reportedly similar results to Botox.)

So after noting that I’d like to focus on the area around my mouth (and he doesn’t disagree), we head over to the table. He checks my pulse and looks at my tongue–- standard acupuncture intake. He says I look a little off-balance.

He feels around my abdomen. At the point right below the diaphragm there is some discomfort. A-ha! The stomach affects the area around the mouth. Mark puts a needle two inches below and to the right of the knee and a pulsing sensation begins. He puts his hand back on my stomach and the discomfort is completely gone. He adds a few more needles–- one to the left hand, right foot and the crown of the head.

Now for the face: He gently places a needle on either side of my mouth and then two more a little further from the center of the face. All is good. But when two more go in closer to the ears, I get that woozy beads-of-sweat-all-over-the-body sensation. Did I mention my fear of needles? He removes the last two. A little deep breathing and I’m back to normal. He leaves me alone for the best part of acupuncture– a trip to that special place somewhere between sleep and consciousness.

Twenty or so minutes later I float back to Planet Earth feeling remarkably calm. On my way out I stop at the mirror to check out the reflection. No longing for Restylane. No signs of stress. I had a certain glow. It’s simple to see that a full course of treatment would produce significant effects.

That evening I sleep better than in weeks. And there’s no better way to get a luminescent complexion than a good night’s rest. Sign me up for round two.

~Lisa Germinsky

Tree of Life Acupuncture
32 Union Square East #804
212.533.1192
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Venue Road-Test: Citi Field
Diehard Fan Kevin Devine Analyzes the Modern, but Slightly Soulless, New Mets Stadium

Kevin Devine is pondering the choices his fans will make in the coming months. He’ll be on the road supporting his latest record, Brother's Blood (Favorite Gentlemen). And with the economy the way it is, he can’t help but wonder if they’ll opt for a ticket to his shows or simply a T-shirt with his name on it.

It’s a conundrum he understands well, as the New York-bred, Brooklyn-dwelling songwriter occupies the role of divided consumer in his relationship with the Mets, his beloved hometown baseball team. To wit: he used to play in an indie band called Miracle of 86, referring to the oft-referenced Mets victory of that year. “In some ways, outside of family, the longest relationship of my life is with the Mets,” he says. “It kind of superseded girlfriends or music.” And this week, the organization unveiled a curiously timed celebration of themselves (and in some people’s view, including Devine’s, reckless commerce) known as Citi Field, an exorbitantly-outfitted new ballpark replacing the old Shea Stadium, and kicking off this week with the season opener.

The 29-year-old neo-folkie was propelled to national attention after becoming a high-profile victim of Capitol Records’ recent merger with Virgin— but since then he has re-established a huge fan base by touring with Brand New, and posting demos on his MySpace profile (with over 1.6 million views at last count), all leading up to the aforementioned Brother’s Blood.

On a recent windswept Saturday afternoon, Devine absorbed the sights, smells and $17 lobster rolls at Citi Field, and was left with the distinct feeling that “these stadiums are not being built for the casual fan. They’re being built to streamline a profit margin.” And while he ultimately takes the perspective of “more power to you” at this capitalist drive, he’ll likely opt for the T-shirt with a select player’s name on it over luxury-box seats.

Here, he gives Psychopedia his eloquently jaded insight on the rest of Citi Field’s fancy accoutrements, which includes a Blue Smoke BBQ, Shake Shack (an annex of a popular Manhattan burger stand), Caesars Club, sushi and Mexican outposts, and even feminine baseball attire endorsed by a certain former sitcom starlet. In his own words, topic by topic:

GREETINGS FROM NEW JERSEYS
“[J.J.] Putz is something special and opens you up to a whole world of ridicule… But I guess [my jersey] would have to be K-Rod [Francisco Rodriguez]. I could say it’s some weird, sick nickname, if I had to reclaim the K-Rod nickname for myself. That’s the easy answer, but he’s pretty impressive, so if I had to I would probably get a K-Rod jersey.”

MILANO ROOKIES
“I guess Alyssa Milano is a big Mets fan -- she has opened on the premises a clothing boutique for the female fan. I thought that was strange. I didn’t really fish around too much, just because it looked like workout clothes for girls with the Alyssa Milano stamp of approval, which is arbitrary and weird.”

BLOWIN’ SMOKE
“It’s like every stadium in L.A. Having a smokehouse and a Shake Shack… [the Mets are] always trying to compete with the specter of the Yankees. Everyone I know always mocked Shea. I always thought, ‘It’s concrete garbage, but it was our concrete garbage’… I’m not going to a game to sit in a smokehouse. If I want to go and have a nice meal, I’ll go have a meal and catch game on TV. If I’m going to a game I’m going to a game… Philosophically, it harkens back to the idea of why the fuck do they even have to build these stadiums.”

CEASAR’S BUTLERS
“The thing that struck me was… certain tickets grant you access to the Caesars Lounge, which is kind of like a mall food court with weird overhead lighting and clusters of couches and private bathrooms. And this is during a game. There’s no television in the goddamn room with the game on. People were watching a boxing match. And I’m like, ‘What does this say about people that we need a distraction from the distraction?’” You’re not at your third cousin’s bar mitzvah and you don’t want to be there so you sneak up to the bar. You’re at a fucking baseball game.”

FEELING CORNERED
“I didn’t go [to Citi Field] and break out in hives. It’s a nice-looking stadium. It’s got these funky corners in rightfield that make it interesting. I think it’s going to cause [Gary] Sheffield and [Ryan] Church a lot of hell figuring out how to play out there, but it definitely felt weird. Not that Shea’s history was storied… But it doesn’t feel like anything now. It felt like Any Stadium, U.S.A.”

~Kenny Herzog

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Body Care Road-Test: Every Man Jack
Deconstructing the Subversively Stylish, Low-Cost Men's Line

You may recall a recent road-test in which fearless Psychopedia reporter Leann exfoliated with the naughty cleansing collection from Villaness soaps. But if female body products are getting all Burning Angel on us, they’ve got nothing on the gender-role-inverting trendiness around recent male grooming.

And while the proliferation of scrubs, loofahs and all-in-one armpit deodorizers from brands like Axe and Old Spice have responded to crafty constituent research with clever ad campaigns and pandering pheromone igniters, they’ve ignored effective outreach to a male demographic truly in need. Namely, the former slacker who’s all grown up and more cognizant of his self-maintenance, but finds the marketing of metrosexuality to be a subtly apologetic, homophobic eschewing of genuine image-enhancement.

Which is where Ritch Viola comes in. Viola launched Every Man Jack in 2007, specifically unveiling his line in Target stores. And in 2009, as the recession has rendered high-end salons a moot indulgence and the glut of douchebag-directed accessories has clouded our manscaping mission, the Every Man line is a veritable bod-send. Unlike the calculated identity construction of its competitors, Jack’s shampoos, lotions, gels and soaps don’t require an uprooting of your fundamental routine. And the postmodern humor that’s pervasive throughout their packaging is less alpha-male encourager than Snapple-bottle-cap subversive irony. (The faux-FAQs on the back of each bottle make for much more entertaining reading than a standard ingredients list.)

Below, we sample five of the newest Jack products that would be the cornerstone of an Every Man’s daily rejuvenation routine, in an effort to determine whether an affordable middle ground between Head and Shoulders and Sebastian Professional:

SIGNATURE MINT 2-IN-1 DAILY SHAMPOO ($8)
Presentation: Its translucent square torso is affixed with a wooden-block-style nozzle that reflects the simplicity of the Every Man logo. Much like this year’s Oscars, a bit too cute in an effort to convey understatedness. But unlike that awards ceremony, gets extra points for sub-titling itself “Action Jackson.”
Ease Of Use: Squeezeability is lacking just a tad due to the exterior’s heavy plastic. But hey, it’s made of recyclable materials, so you can use the extra bit of exercise. Ya lazy bum.
Most Unexpected Ingredient: Coconut-derived nutrients.
Will You Finally Know Jack About Hair-Washing? You’ll likely experience growing pains on the first couple of applications, as a heavy dose can lead to a scalp-tingling adventure. But as the cool mint settles into your follicles and the shower’s rays eventually wash it through, it’s a unique sensory encounter, if not thoroughly effective as a conditioner.

SPICED PEPPER BODY WASH AND SHOWER GEL ($5)
Presentation: Like the Whooper Jr. to the shampoo’s senior rendition of the sandwich, the Body Wash is artificially identical to its cranium-scrubbing counterpart, save for a boxier, more diminutive shell and non-translucent plastic.
Ease Of Use: Tends to come out in gobs that will potentially scare away conventional epidermis latherers serially attached to their bar of Irish Spring. But from there, works itself into soapy precision with quickness, and requires minimal extra emission.
Most Unexpected Ingredient: Besides the namesake spiced pepper? Well how about sliding some citric acid across your skin in lieu of your morning glass of O.J.
Will You Finally Know Jack About Body Washing? Of all the Jack merchandise, this is by far the most lasting and invigorating, leaving you with a lingering scent that is unexpectedly manly but charmingly esoteric, and imbuing you with sexual bravado without the creepy suggestiveness of other companies’ rival (and often distractingly fluorescent) gels. Like Ben Affleck chasing Amy, this viscous hygiene healer may actually change your impenetrable reliance on the aforementioned filmy bar.

SPICED PEPPER BODY BAR WITH GLYCERIN ($5)
Presentation: Still not convinced to get off the wash rag? Then forego the ickiness of the shower gel and opt for these same-scented, wood-grain-emulating, compactly square oil-and-pepper amalgamations. Three bars are contained within each perfume-like box, and it’s kind of fun to watch the carved-in chain-link logo slowly wash away. Ditto for how it begins to look authentically weathered after a few uses.
Ease Of Use: Well, that depends on your familiarity with the general bathing procedure. Barring a personal history with natural cleansing or Tarzan-like wash-ups in a lake, this should be pretty intuitive.
Most Unexpected Ingredient: Rosemary oils.
Will You Finally Know Jack About Soap? Actually, maybe. Irish Spring still has its old-fashioned charm, but it’s pretty gratifying to stare at and sniff this aromatic gift. And your girlfriend will probably appreciate the nuanced addition to your shower’s atmosphere. (Little Psychopedia secret: Do a quick lather with the bar and then follow up with a thorough coating of gel, and you’ll feel fresher than a newly exited birth-canal baby.)

SIGNATURE MINT SKIN HYDRATING FACE WASH ($5)
Presentation: Deceptive in its simple-but-revealingly sheerm upside-down squeeze bottle, as the wash actually fizzes up into a thin-but-frothy pore-invader upon massage into the skin.
Ease Of Use: Takes a bit of getting used to, particularly awkward to negotiate around facial hair and never really feels natural when caressed into the back of the beck as recommended. This is why you ideally are in co-habitation and can seek assistance as penance for all those zipper-uppings.
Most Unexpected Ingredient: Sea Fennel. (No relation to the sausage.)
Will You Finally Know Jack About Face Washing? The Face Wash is the most prone to accusations of placebo. While it feels momentarily refreshing on account of the mint, it can be hard to accept its profound resonance or necessity as a dirt-remover, especially if about to step into a hot, peppery shower with the remainder of your Jack arsenal.

SIGNATURE POST-SHAVE FACE LOTION ($5)
Presentation: More subdued, and consistent with the shampoo as far as linear juxtaposition of neutral blues and browns, similar to the aesthetic concern of modern sports logos. And unlike the peek-a-boo packaging of the hydrating face wash, classily conceals the eggshell white of its inner contents with a complementarily muted shade.
Ease Of Use: Exceptional from a basic functionality standpoint, if lacking in the shower products’ novel reveal.
Most Unexpected Ingredient: Sunflower Seed Oil.
Will You Finally Know Jack About Aftershave? While arguably the most low-key of their shave-and-shower line, this lotion is also the most emblematic of Jack’s intent, behaving itself delicately against your skin, while distinguishing itself with its scent and texture. (And in case you were wondering, while Jack does distribute a shave gel, your standard can of Gillette or disposable razor with Aloe will probably still remain serviceable in tandem.)

~Kenny Herzog
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Restaurant Road-Test: Shang
Chic-Hotel Chinese Fusion on the Lower East Side

Rising from Allen Street is the newest cool downtown NYC hotel – Thompson Lower East Side. It’s a jarring yet undoubtedly strong structure: blocky, boxy and gray. Inside it’s the hospitality equivalent of black on black on black, with shiny mod surfaces and ambient music. And it’s Thompson’s raison d’etre (as we showed in an earlier review of The Libertine, at their Gild Hall hotel in the financial district) to put a star chef in a cool restaurant.

Here, they enlisted Susur Lee, Chinese star chef (and “Iron Chef America” participant), to head up the hotel’s eatery, Shang-- a big, red-hued space with bulbous, oversized light fixtures, expensively glossy paneling and draperies, and curvy leather banquettes that were clearly conceived (like the whole hotel was) in an economic boom.

In this incongruously extroverted 130-seat space, Lee served up Asian fusion cuisine. Yes, Asian fusion. That is very 1997. The menu is as uneven as it is cheeky – my friend and I saw that in the dim sum alone. Taro puffs with curried beef were insanely tender and delicious. But tiny scallion pancakes were boring and dull. Soy miso flavored cucumber salad was intensely bright and bursting with subtle flavor; yet fried oysters with Kung Pao sauce were greasy with no payoff. The salads looked interesting – the one my friend and I tried, Singapore Slaw, has 19 ingredients, from jicama and daikon to roasted hazelnuts,, carrots and even pansies, and a plum dressing that was a perfectly-spiced delight.

Wish the entrees had been as good. The slow-cooked pork belly I had was very disappointing … the pig is already dead, so there was no reason to kill it again. It may have been slow-cooked, but it was over-cooked well past the point of tenderness. The apple puree on the side was nice, but that didn’t save it. My friend called his sablefish – admittedly not an easy one to prepare -- “just bland – disappointing. Not bad but not memorable.”

And now a note on service. Thompson people: get it improved, quick. Our waiter came to the table, and said, “Hello and welcome…” then apparently he received a signal from another staff member, and immediately said: “I’m sorry – please excuse me,” and did not come back for approximately three minutes. This is the time when I should point out that the bill, with one drink each, was around $150. This is a very bad bill total to combine with being abandoned by a waiter for several minutes. After the initial abandonment, service was relatively rushed, with the waiter doing that annoying thing where he said “excellent choice!” after every choice.

No need to go too far into the economic situation, but let’s just say that we know it’s not great, and high-end restaurants have to be absolutely first-rate to be true survivors. This one isn’t first-rate. It’s interesting, and has potential, but for now, it’s in the gray zone.

Shang, 187 Orchard St., 212.260.7900

~Stephen Milioti

The Final Verdict

Taste- 7/10
Value- 5/10
Looks- 7.5/10
Service- 5/10

Total... 24.5/40


First, third, and fourth photos by kathyylchan via Flickr
Second photo by Lois Seigel
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Gadget Road-Test: Flip Mino Camera
Is This Pocket Cam Worth Flipping Out Over?

In the age of the all-powerful pocket-phone, another little black box just for making videos could seem superfluous. After all, as well as being able to essentially run our lives, sing us to sleep and perhaps morph into crime-fightin’, tough-talkin’ super-robots, phones are now capable of capturing perfectly acceptable moving pictures.

If, that is, you only ever want to watch them on a screen about as big as a business card. I cannot be the only one who has whipped out my phone at some perfect moment, only to find that once transferred to my computer, everything comes out as a series of greyscale squares.

That’s where the Flip Mino comes in. As an object, it’s fairly unbecoming as it first slides out of its box. The big red record button is inviting, but other than that, it’s just a black box with a screen. But turn it on, and it lights up like a runway, all blue and twinkly. Lovely. It also has an awesome little flip-out USB key, which snaps upright with the nudge of a button at the side. I totally freaked out a friend of mine with it, asking him if it were a defect, then almost poking him in the eye with the USB key when he got close to check.

The Mino is weirdly light, which does little to inspire confidence. You find yourself tiptoeing around it, scared that if you were to drop it then it would shatter. But I guess the lightness is also a good thing, making up for the fact that it is a little more cumbersome than an average phone or iPod.

One of the advantages of its size is that it does have a flat bottom, which meant I could balance it on a book whilst I filmed a guy I’d just met in the pub reading a letter by James Joyce about farting. The film is surprisingly high-quality, even picking up smoke in fairly dark lighting conditions. The sound, too, was unexpectedly clear and could even pick up the groovy subtleties of a reggae gig I went to later that night.

From a marketing perspective, though, the Mino is hanging precariously between two different types of filmmakers – the casual one who just picks up the occasional funny moment, drunken antic or happy-slapping, and the more serious filmmaker who worries about focus and depth of field and that sort of stuff. For the casual enthusiast, a phone is still pretty much adequate and they are only going to get better, so there’s little point in having another box to weigh down your pockets, particularly one which costs around $160. And for the more sincere video jockey, the Mino just isn’t high enough quality. It’s decent, but it doesn’t approach the quality of even a middle-of-the-road camcorder.

In sum, the Mino has missed its moment. Though it was fun to have the camera for a couple of weeks, I did stop taking it out with me because it was ruining the cut of my coat and wasn’t useful enough to justify making me look like I had a hip tumour. A couple of years ago, prior to five megapixel phone cameras and ever-smaller handhelds, the Mino would have had its niche. Now, it’s barely present-proof, let alone future-proof.

~Chris Harding


The Scoreboard:

Looks: 6/10
Value: 4/10
Quality: 7/10
Convenience: 6/10

Overall rating: 23/40


First photo via Wired
Second photo via Matthom
Third photo via Coochichoos
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Restaurant Road-Test: Wilfie & Nell
Deconstructing the Latest NYC Gastro-Pub

The urban gastro-pub is a very tricky tightrope act to achieve. It has to be down-to-earth but not grubby; homey but not kitschy; and the food has to be two steps above standard pub-grub, but not so highfalutin as to be inaccessible.

The latest gastro-pub to aim for the mark is Wilfie & Nell, a West Village spot that’s brand new but already looks nicely worn, befitting the old-world vibe of the immediate area: dark wood-paneled windows, exposed caramel-colored brick, creamy-gray velvet banquettes. It’s sort of American-Irish hybrid in aesthetic, more masculine than feminine but friendly to both. The effect is a regular local bar, just scrubbed extra-fresh. The place is named for the grandparents of owners Mark and Simon Gibson, two Irishmen who also own Bua in the East Village; Joaquin Baca, formerly of Momofuku, worked on the menu, with much thought going into the details.

The food on that menu is squarely in the gastro-pub safety zone mentioned above – better than standard pub food, for sure, but not annoyingly Top Chef-like. And dieters beware: it is very, very fattening. The only greens here are the pilsner logos on the bar tap. The big beer selection is designed to soak up the greasy food – and my friend and I came hungry. Luckily, much of it is not just greasy, but flavorful – when you’re eating so unhealthy, you want payoff. That comes in dishes like the Berkshire pork sliders ($9) – delicious crumbled pork on buttery little rolls, with McClure’s pickles and grain mustard. Completely smile-inducing, as is the corned beef grilled cheese with onions ($10) – it all comes together with a perfect crunch on the outside and meltiness on the inside – this type of sandwich can easily fall into sogginess and blandness, and not so here. Delicious.

Unfortunately, some dishes were not as good. Of the other two we tried, one – the shepherd’s pie ($10) – didn’t rise an iota above boring – and the malt vinegar-soaked fries ($5) were too soaked, almost inedibly greasy. Less vinegar and they would have been fine, but they were so pungently vinegary, it almost hurt, and sent us frowning back to our pint of lager.

Service was average to good – we were served by a fellow who was relatively expressionless and seemed somewhat depressed, yet was quick and efficient. It’s not a welcome-you-with-open-arms place, but certainly there is no velvet-rope chill.

Despite the missteps, there’s enough good to recommend the place overall – start with those pork sliders and you’ll be happy. Also, this place suits the current economy – a couple can get well-fed and liquored up for under $50, which is a nice idea for anything from a cheap date to a gathering among friends where you don’t have to worry about splitting a Nobu-sized bill.

Wilfie & Nell, 228 W. 4th St. near 7th Ave. South (phone 212.242.2990)

~Stephen Milioti

The Verdict:

Taste- 7/10
Looks- 8/10
Value- 9/10
Service- 7/10

Total ... 31/40


First photo by Hannah Whitaker
Second, third, and fourth photos via The Hungry Roach
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Beauty Road-Test: Villainess Soaps
Giving Showering a Sinful Spin

Villainess is a Tennessee-based body care brand whose catchphrase is "redefining bad." And from a casual glance at their assortment of nefariously-named products like Asphyxiate, Blood, and Silk & Cyanide, it would seem like their definition of "bad" comes straight from the repertoire of a split-personality femme fatale who could seduce you with her ripped stockings and murder you with the same material.

But take a closer look at the labels’ fine print list of ingredients, and there’s nothing but granola goodness. Despite a line-up of mostly vegan, cruelty-free products with ecologically sound ingredients-– including palm, castor seed, grapeseed, cherry kernel, and coconut oil, shea and mango seed butter, and "peace" silk-- the entire line is still inexpensive, from $5 for large hunks of soap to $15 for perfume oils. Armed with a winter-appropriate arsenal, I stepped in the shower ready to test some curiously dark, spicy, and sweet scents.

While I tend to be anti-soap-- as the act of rubbing a soap bar against my body seems masculine and conjures gritty images of Brad Pitt mixing tubs of lye in Fight Club-- I wanted to diversify my regimen and give soap a shot. So, I opened the first bar, Shrapnel-– a cream-colored soap scented with "sugared cranberries laced with ozone and incense and spiked with cracked peppercorns." Villainess soaps are cut large and aren't contoured, which make them slightly unwieldly in the first few uses. Also, the feel of the bar against my skin was initially foreign, as I'm used to foamy shower gels applied via loofah. And though I would've liked a frothier consistency (since I tend to equate suds with cleanliness), I could instantly feel that the soap was doing double duty-– cleansing and moisturizing in one swoop-– which besides my disdain for 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioners, I’m always a fan of products that multi-task.

After easing in with the mild aroma of Shrapnel, I opted to tackle a more incendiary scent, Pyromania, described as “warm black pepper, sweetened with brown sugar, and touched with a veil of smoke”–- of which the illicit odor could easily justify the allure of arson. And as for my favorite scent, Anti-Hero, a gray suede-colored bar that the label describes as "well-worn sweaty leather, the acrid smoke of cigarettes, and a soft side of honey and vanilla," I felt faintly imprinted with the incriminating scent of a seedy, downtown dive bar-- and I liked it.

After the cleansing process, and now a converted soap lover, I move on to the “dessert” stage and exfoliate with Dulces En Fuego Smooch warming body scrub, a raw sugar and sea salt concoction laced with crushed botanicals and jojoba beads which smells of “musky bitter chocolate sweetened with vanilla, touches of citrus, and inflamed with black pepper and nutmeg.” Taking a greedy two-finger scoop of the grainy mix, with only a touch of moisture, it immediately heats up when rubbed lightly. I could feel the warmth opening pores, especially on my face, and yet the mixture isn’t overly abrasive like a lot of salt scrubs. But as another dual-action product in the line, the best aspect of Smooch comes at the end, when it melts down into a light lotion that leaves a thin veil of moisture even after it’s rinsed away.

Finishing with a light layer of Wasabi Whipped-– the velvety-textured lotion scented with green tea, black pepper burn, and a brisk splash of citrus–- provides the literal icing to the Villainess experience, although I could’ve done without based on the moisturizing effects of the shower alone. Therefore, to ration my Whipped reserves, I save it to apply to my winter-wind-beaten knuckles, as ironically enough despite its name, I’ve found it’s one of the few products that won’t burn my chapped skin upon application.

As for the final verdict: while I was first roped in by the charming and cleverly-named items Villainess offers, the complex and often peculiar combinations worried me that I’d encounter olfactory overload, which I get at Lush or The Body Shop. But to my surprise, despite the fragrances being distinct and multi-dimensional, none are migraine-inducing, and they layer nicely over each other with integrated use. So while I never thought I’d want to smell like I had a criminal record, Villainess makes smelling bad seem so good.

~Leann Peterson


The Soapy Score
Looks- 9/10
Value- 10/10
Quality- 10/10
Convenience- 9/10
Total ... 38/40
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A Pair of Health Nuts
Current TV Co-Hosts Talk Tahini & the L.A. Dating Scene

In its inception three years ago, Current TV set out to hire about 50 rotating hosts for the channel. When the network, whose “spiritual leader” is Al Gore, came across two film students at the University of Miami, they stopped that search and hired two guys -- Max Lugavere and Jason Silva -- to be the face of the station, which aims to be the “HBO of the YouTube generation.” The duo moved to L.A, became roommates, and on January 12th, launched their first daily show for the network.

“Al Gore has said that the Internet is the most participatory medium of our time,” says Silva. “What he wanted to do was bring that level of participation to television -- to embrace user-generated content and news journalism.” While some co-host situations seem forced, Max and Jason are actually best friends in real life. “Our friendship is based on the fact that we have similar taste in food,” says Lugavere. The two self-proclaimed health nuts, who love sneaking away from set for lunch, met us at the recently-opened healthy restaurant Natura Mediterranean Foods, to discuss ethnic comfort food and dating in L.A.:

JS: The name of this place stood out for us. The best Lebanese comfort food with brown rice and everything organic. We try to eat really healthy. We live above an organic supermarket.

So you cook?
ML: We can toast bread – that’s in our domestic skill set. But we don’t cook. We’re in the studio a lot. But for lunch we like to run out to a quick healthy restaurant. L.A. has the best affordable delicious restaurants. This place has the best Lebanese comfort food.

A plate of hummus and thin pita is served.

JS: The hummus tastes like it was just ground. It’s so pure. Doesn’t taste like supermarket hummus. We are both obsessed with ethnic food: Thai, Indian, Brazilian, Venezuelan. We’ve been known to come to the same restaurant twice in one day. The attention to detail is what we love about this place.
ML: We both love really old ethnic comfort food. Like Ethiopian food. L.A. has the largest Ethiopian community outside Ethiopia.
JS: We really appreciate it when an ethnic restaurant takes the time to give it that new-wave healthy twist. Old comfort food reexamined.

A plate of eggplant layered with onions, tomatoes and peppers is brought out.

What do you do when you’re not in the studio?
JS: We have several fun activities. Max is really into guitar. I like indoor rock climbing. I hike, go to Malibu. If I can discover some new place to see in L.A. every weekend, I’m happy.
ML: Wow. This looks amazing. Very exciting. A lot of my free time is not spent exploring, unfortunately. It’s spent writing songs and exploring that side of myself. Shall we? (he digs into the eggplant) I want to explore the Griffith Observatory. Maybe bring a bottle of wine, bring a girl. Wow, look at this. Really good. I’m not a huge fan of eggplant but this is delicious. A nice combination of garden-like flavors.

Chicken kabob and beef kabob are brought out with grilled veggies, brown rice, Tahini sauce, and yogurt cucumber sauce.

ML: We love LA. It’s a town that nurtures the feeling of expression. Everybody is here to do something. The entertainment business is ultimately a creative business. And everyone here is in it. This kabob is the shit.
JS: Our experience here has been anything but shallow. We came here to work for a meaningful network with a meaningful mission behind it. I feel like everywhere I turn there’s something to see. The other day I went to the Getty Museum. I was like, are you kidding me? No line, no wait. I can come here and have a glass a wine. In many ways this is the birthplace of the culture of the world, and I like that. You can go to Morocco to see posters of the movies that were made and conceived here.
ML: I love that you can get brown rice here. We won’t eat white rice because brown rice is so much better for you. We don’t eat in the studio because it’s all white bread and Skippy peanut butter. We carry our vitamins with us. Gotta be healthy. They make a great lentil meatball. Could we try one of those?

You’re both single. What’s dating like in L.A.?
JS: That’s where we sometimes tend to agree with the L.A. stereotype.
ML: We do put in a lot of effort.
JS: I’ve had the L.A. experience where I’ve been dating a girl and we go to a party and we can’t be holding hands at the party because there’s some producer there.”
ML: I’ve been single for ten months and enjoy being single. I’d like to meet a special somebody. I think that to some degree I enjoy the times I wish I had a girlfriend. I think that being romantically unhappy helps me write better songs. They say that Kafka ended four marriages because he couldn’t write. I love this sauce (pointing out the tahini). These are tasty, hun.

~Sara Costello


Natura Mediterranean Foods, 8250 W 3rd St. (323) 655-5551
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Restaurant Road-Test: Rouge Tomate
Trying Out the Healthy High End

Ultra-healthy haute cuisine is a very difficult combo to find on the Upper East Side. If your New Year’s resolutions specify no butter, cream and cheese, that would generally mean the end of fine dining above 59th St.-- don’t bother leaving the penthouse. ‘Til now… a New York outpost of the Brussels restaurant Rouge Tomate has opened in the now-defunct, ultra-mod bi-level Nicole Farhi store space-– and the colossal restaurant serves up a big menu of ultra-healthy organic foods at a four-star presentation level, price point and ingredient deck, courtesy of chef Jeremy Bearman.

Did I mention the space is big? It’s huge, almost bank-like in its expansiveness, with light wood surfaces, and many cream-colored and orange-red panels adding a very-Euro type of liveliness. But it’s expansive, with no space dividers, so if you’re having an affair, or a romantic date, this is not the place. But for a see-and-be-seen lunch or dinner in an ebullient setting, you’re good to go.

My friend and I tested it out for lunch, and came hungry. We went to the upstairs café – no reservations required and a little more affordable than the downstairs café. Upstairs is a better way to dip your toe in. One of our starters was a beet flatbread ($12), a special that day, with chopped red and yellow beets, fresh crumbled feta, fennel and parsley-- altogether, it made for a flavorful starter – fresh and vibrant. Another starter we had was the baby carrot terrine ($15) with peekytoe crab tabouleh, almond vinaigrette and mango. It was also a thumbs-up… the four disparate flavors danced very nicely together.

My entrée was a cauliflower risotto ($19)-- it’s usually a very heavy dish, and quite fattening; here, it comes with roasted garlic, and lemon confit. I asked the waiter what the secret to its healthfulness was – normally risotto has more butter and cheese than almost any other dish. He said it’s fennel stock and fennel puree that “keeps it all together.” That is admirable and interesting. But I was yearning a bit for the butter and cheese, as this dish, while pleasant (the lemon was a particularly nice twist), had an un-creamy quality that was, well, un-Italian. It was just OK. My friend chose a pasta dish-– angiolotti with delicate squash, watercress, warm mushroom vinaigrette, and an egg on top ($16). This was another flavor foursome, but none of the flavors in this one rose above bland. It sure tasted fresh – just not exciting.

Dessert, though, was the saddest affair. In theory, a Cara Cara Orange & Earl Grey Crème Caramel ($9, with frozen chocolate milk, candied oranges and chocolate butter cookies), sounded great. In reality, the little lump of crème caramel looked like poo. And it didn’t taste much better. Dessert is one place where you’ll really feel it when fat and sugar are cut out – and you’ll feel that here. A special way to sidestep this, though, is with the fresh juice drinks: My citrus punch, with a base of blood oranges and a range of berries, was refreshingly sweet.

Rouge Tomate is uneven-– but you gotta give it points for being ambitious-– it’s truly innovative in following a huge list of health and diet guidelines, and the presentation manages to be high-end and befitting the quite-high price point. Unfortunately, the uneven food, overly-sprawling atmosphere and corresponding spotty service (our waiter seemed very busy running back and forth to give true personal attention) keep this health shrine from reaching the top level yet.

~Stephen Milioti

Rouge Tomate, 14 E. 60th St., between Fifth and Madison Aves. (646) 861.0842

The Verdict:

Taste- 7/10
Looks- 7/10
Value- 6/10
Service- 7/10

Overall ... 27/40
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Snowboard Road-Test: Burton Malolo 2009
Talking Technical Turns

Burton Snowboards is a great example of doing one thing very well: The Burlington, VT-based company has been pumping out snowboards for over 30 years, and has acquired a following of successful athletes like Olympic gold medalist and Burton poster boy, Shaun White, who soar out of the half-pipe at record heights with custom-made decks.

The company, which deals in snowboards and related gear, outerwear and accessories, has the celeb cred. They carry over 50 different types of boards. But is it hype, or true quality? We set our intrepid road-tester up with the new 2009 Malolo ($549.95), and got the scoop:

The reason I choose the Malolo is mainly due to my current level and mind set of snowboarding. Gone are my 22-year-old days of hiking the half-pipe, like my buddy Shaun, or taking on a huge jump in the park at every waking breath. I still like to hit the pipe, yet my love now is powder, powder and more power. Steep and deep mountains, preferably in Jackson Hole Wyoming, Lake Tahoe or Canada.

The Malolo’s length and shape fuses a hybrid of freestyle and freeride performance – allowing me to either take that jump if it comes up or drowning in waist deep powder. The model comes in five different size options; a 149, 154, 158, 162 or 168cm long. Standing high at 5’11 and, um, well….girls don’t disclose their weight, I settled with the 154. Due to the board’s tapered shape I also sized down a few cm’s versus my normal size of 156. (A tapered board is where the width of the board’s nose is wider than the width of its tale.)

Recently, Mt. Snow Resort in Vermont hosted a huge snowboarding contest called the Winter Dew Tour. The top male and female snowboarders converged together in hopes to gain momentum for the 2010 Olympic Games in Vancouver, BC. I decided to make the trek from New York City and see how my board would do in various conditions considering the Weather Channel told me it’d dump about 10 inches of snow over Saturday night, making Sunday a chance to see how the board performed in both fresh tracks and on groomed corduroy trails.

What I found is the Malolo is brilliant for powder days and good for non-powder days. I learned, for my style of riding, I’d prefer another Burton board, a Custom X 56 for fast and icy conditions on the East Coast. That’s not going to prevent me from not riding the Malolo on the “right side”, but to me, it’s made for days with epic conditions where a helicopter is involved – whisking me away on my dream experience.

The cost of the board is reasonable too, considering you get more bang for your buck in its versatility. I wasn’t crazy about the graphics, but that can be fixed too! Burton has a custom made online buying option, Series 13 at Burton.com, where you can select any of its models and create your own board graphics, all for around $300 more than the board’s original cost. It’s tres tres chic couture, yet for snowboarders!

At the end of the weekend, I was happy, because all that matters is snowboarding down the mountain and having fun with friends.

~Jessica McMenamin

Overall Rating:
Value – 9
Looks – 7
Quality – 10
Performance – 10

Total ...36/40
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Restaurant Road-Test: The Libertine at Gild Hall
Decoding Todd English's Re-Interpreted Pub Fare

In order to understand The Libertine – the stuffily-named new restaurant at the new Gild Hall hotel on Wall St. – you need a little backgrounder on the hotel itself. It’s owned by Thompson Hotels, a company whose first venture, 60 Thompson, was a testament to late-‘90s tech-driven moneybag chic, with its private passkey rooftop lounge and velvet rope outside.

Times have generally changed since then, and things have toned down. Gild Hall reflects that in its general look – it’s more grown-up than 60 Thompson ever was, with less focus on show and more on details. And the design has also matured, courtesy of designer Jim Walrod: bright red walls contrast with huge white wall moldings for a Federalist-goes-mod look; the rooms have thick, substantial leather bed headboards and a splashy mix of prints; and a bi-level library bar featuring stately wood tones contrasted with swoopy seating surfaces, for a perfect yin-yang.

The restaurant lies within this style, with a tony-pub feel – though, as it’s Thompson’s wont to attract celebs, they got about as big a food star as you can to run the place: chef Todd English (responsible for tons of big restaurants in the U.S. and throughout NYC, most notably in big hotels, like Olives at the W Union Square). And it’s no small operation – it’s a bi-level space meant to recall swinging-‘70s London clubhouses with its ironically-old-school portraiture on the walls, rubbed-bronze accents, velvet chairs, and red leather banquettes over trippy Oriental rugs. And lots of bookshelves with books that look frequently-read and tattery-eared.

While he’s extremely attractive and TV-photogenic, and a brilliant businessperson, English is not known for taking huge culinary risk in his menus, and this place is not an exception. But what’s there is fun: cheeky, high-rent takes on hangover food, courtesy of executive chef Eben Leonard. Two really tasty examples of that are caviar sliders ($20) with quail eggs and crème fraiche, and a Kobe hot dog ($18) – both of which were expertly rendered. These smaller bar-style plates are the draw.

Sadly, the main course wasn’t as much of a hit. After chowing on the above, my friend ordered a rack of lamb and Moroccan shepherd’s pie ($28) for an entrée, and I had the roasted sea bass with grilled corn and salsa verde ($24). The lamb was bland and the Moroccan shepherd’s pie a little too minty-tasting, and the sea bass was just fine but very forgettable, with the salsa not enough to float it above average.

The service was OK. When we asked what a good wine might be to complement our meals, the waiter said “It really depends on your mood” – and he wasn’t being playful. He was serious. I asked him if he meant before or after my daily anti-depressant pill. That sort of started things downhill, and he did not really say much after that.

The overall verdict is that this is not a place I’d recommend people cab specifically down to the Financial District to have a full meal at. But if you’re down there and you want a “reinterpreted” pub snack and a cocktail, it’s more than good enough for that – and if you’re a design buff more than a foodie, you’ll be downright pleased.

~Stephen Milioti

The Libertine, 15 Gold St. (at Platt St.), 212.785.5950

The Verdict:
Taste- 7/10
Value- 7/10
Looks- 8/10
Service- 6/10

Total ... 28/40


First and third photos by SarahNYC
Second photo via Boston.com
Fourth photo via Eater.com
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Camera Road-Test: Mamiya RB67
Photographer D.Wiafe on Shooting-Day Snafus & His Cherished eBay Find

South London photographer D.Wiafe has a knack for turning everyday scenes of urban life, into vivid stills that are almost cinematic in nature. D.Wiafe’s endearingly gripping photo series of British youth culture, such as ‘Borough Kids,’ show a tough yet endearing side of what it means to be young and British.

When he’s not shooting, D.Wiafe is a resident lecturer at Coventry University, and founder of the artist-teacher scheme ‘Our World Untitled.’ Inspired, we sat down with him for a bit, and got the info on his camera of choice, and more:

What have you been up to lately on the photography front?
Completing a series entitled ‘Girl Story’; a new piece of work that explores girl culture in the electronic age. I’ve also been mentoring and helping develop the next generation of photographers.

How would you describe your style?
I wouldn’t. My photographs have their signature qualities, but ultimately they’re a visual extension of myself: my thoughts, my interpretations.

Who would you love to shoot that you haven’t already and why?
Perhaps Sia, for her eccentricities as an artist and the intimacy of the narratives in her songwriting. I’d also like to explore, at some point, the gap between the traditional and modernity in contemporary Japanese youth culture.

What’s the worst experience you’ve had on a shoot, or trying to get a shoot with someone?
There have been clichés, such as being stood up on shoots or being asked to shoot a grime artist with their jeans hanging off their bums. The worst experience was a shoot with Kidulthood’s Noel Clarke. For aesthetic reasons, I had to replace the biography of Barack Obama he was reading with a Rudyard Kipling hardback. We didn’t realize that it had a Swastika on the front cover. When I gave the book to Noel, he had this look on his face, like “what’s this racist business?” It was then I looked at the front cover and noticed the symbol. It’s likely the symbol was published in its non-Nazi context... but valuable lessons were learned that day.

What is the make and model of your favorite camera and why?
My first camera, the Mamiya RB67. It’s an old model Mamiya that’s almost a relic now. I grew with this camera, came to understand my process and the play of light through it. This history has made it important to me.

How much did you spend on it?
I brought it on eBay years ago from a wedding photographer who was turning digital for £700. It hurt my pockets at the time, but has since been a worthwhile investment.

You mentioned that it’s your most reliable camera…how so?
It’s been dropped, survived British rainfall and yet works perfectly, and is still the camera I prefer to shoot my personal work on.

Does it take better shots than other cameras?
Not necessarily. There are more advanced Mamiya models and Hasselblad kits that technically give you more range in terms of aperture and lenses. For me it’s a love affair with its ability to endure and the amount of detail from light it translates to film.

What’s the best feature on the camera?
When it pops out of the camera bag, people take you seriously instead of mistaking you for a kid who just passed his Photography A-Level.

How many of them have you owned?
Thankfully, only one, though I can’t say the same about the film backs.

Can you show us your favorite shot that has been taken with that camera, and tell us why you like it?
One of them would be ‘Away From,’ from the Borough Kids series. It was one of those moments where you catch that perfect marriage between your personal vision, the sitter’s emotional depths and the camera’s ability to capture the detail in the scene and commit the lighting set-up to film.

What’s the worst camera that you’ve ever used and why?
The same Mamiya RB67. It can also be a temperamental piece of equipment if you don’t treat it with care. It’s a love/hate relationship.

~Donald Crunk @ Styleslut

All photo by D.Wiafe
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Boutique Road-Test: Duo
Sister Act, the Minds Behind the East Village's New Shop

As the well-known aphorism goes— two heads are better than one. And pixie-haired proprietors, Wendy and LaRae Kangas, of the new downtown boutique Duo are on a mission to prove just that. Having honed their fashion curatorial skills at other popular New York boutiques, these Minnesota natives now have their own three-week-old store, nestled amongst some of the East Village’s best shopping destinations— neighbor to Fabulous Fanny's and Local Clothing. Stocking an impressive mix of rare hand-picked vintage, from Moschino to Dior, and up-and-coming independent designers, the new girls on the block also keep a solid focus on putting local goods in the limelight— utilizing New York and Los Angeles-based brands manufactured in the United States.

Joining the sisters for a first look at the store, psychoPEDIA chatted with the blonde beauties on their favorite American-made clothing and accessories lines and other dynamic duos:

Where did you get the name Duo?
L: Duo is for the modern and vintage mix. And then, of course, because of the two sisters, we’re also a duo. It’s a double duo!

What are some of the standout US-made lines you carry?
L: Our feature line is Keller. She makes things like a little shirt-dress, schoolboy blazers, skinny-strap racer back— layering pieces, with small details that make it special.
W: Her name is Kelly Clark, and she lives in Williamsburg. Her stuff is very simple, and it’s all produced in Midtown. She does shoes, as well.
L: She gets them produced in LA at a dance shoe-making factory, so they’re extremely comfortable and basically melt to your foot. Her motive behind everything is to be very simple and easy to wear, and that’s our aesthetic, too.

Any other unique apparel brands?
W: We carry an organic line, Velvet Leaf, by two sisters based out in LA. It’s the only line we have that’s not New York-based. They’re in their 20’s and are just starting out. We really want to help smaller lines that aren’t selling at the high department stores and other stores around here. They do fun pieces like a V-neck t-shirt with cut-outs on the sleeves and cutesy rompers. The line has a younger feel to it. We also carry an East Village designer who’s just finishing school at FITSah Cavalcante. He does garments like dark, Victorian-inspired silk chiffon shawls.
L: His pieces are all handmade by him personally.

What about locally-crafted accessories?
W: Our feature jewelry designer is Wendy Nichol, who lives in Park Slope. Her pieces are handmade out of her studio in Soho. She uses metals like sterling silver and 24k gold vermeil. A stylist recommended her to me, and since then, she has blown up and a few celebrities like Drew Barrymore, Scarlett Johansson, and Amy Winehouse, have worn her pieces.
L: We also carry Anna Kula, who lives in the West Village. All of her hats are high quality wool and handmade at her in-home studio. We love her floppy wool berets, which are super soft.

Do you believe there’s a distinct difference between US and foreign-made garments?
W: Yes, in the fabrics and how pieces are sewn together.
L: And polyester— we won’t go there. Comfort-wise, the fit is a better, and natural fibers just feel better.

Are you two into the eco-conscious clothing movement?
L: We’re green friendly— with recycled and vintage garments— so we wanted to carry at least one organic line. It works, because it’s what we wear. And we didn’t want to have to stick to an era.
W: We have flannel shirts next to silk capes from the 1900s.

Being sisters in addition to co-workers, do you ever bump heads with the direction of the store?
W: We are very collaborative when picking out pieces, since we are so tight with each other.
L: We try on every single piece of our vintage. We’ll pop out of a fitting room, look at each other and say, “I just picked that out!” We’ll creep ourselves out a little bit.
W: Too much time together…

Since you guys are two-rific, who is your favorite superhero duo?
W: Batman and Robin.

Musical duo?
W: Johnny Cash and June Carter.
L: Adam Green and Kimya Dawson of The Moldy Peaches— they’re a good description of us.
W: The Ying Yang Twins.
L: We have every album!

And last but not least, favorite designer duo?
W: We love YSL and his partner, but we’re more into the real people over the super high-end, although we love fashion and get a lot of inspiration from it.
L: Velvet Leaf—that’s a real duo in fashion now, and it’s inspiring because they’re doing it all themselves.

~Leann Peterson


First, second, third, and sixth photos by Leann Peterson
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Road-Test: Tanda Light Therapy
We Go Under the Rays

The glow of summer sun is long gone. Winter skin has officially emerged -- and with it, this year, a mask of stress has been etched on the face. Sun exposure is greatly diminished, giving way to seasonal blues: weight gain, carbo craving, lethargy and sleep problems. There is a proposed cure, though: Light therapy, also known as Photo Therapy, is thought to alter the circadian rhythms and suppress the body’s natural release of melatonin. Together these cause biochemical changes in the brain that help reduce or control symptoms of seasonal mood disorders. LED light wavelengths have also been effective in treating acne, eczema, and psoriasis.

Cosmetic companies are now introducing LED light devices that mimic exact light frequencies used in office treatments to help improve skin texture, color and tone while diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Dr. Perricone has come out with PerriconeMD Light Renewal Skin Rejuvenation Therapy ($335.00) and L’Oreal has one in the works. The newest one out, from Tanda, is called Tanda’s Regenerate Anti-Aging Light Therapy Treatment, and that's the one we decided to test.

In the past I’ve had success with prescription creams that reduce rosacea and stop the occasional outbreak of eczema -- which I tend to get after a few months in a dry overheated apartment -- but am a skeptic when it comes to over-the-counter creams or devices that promise to erase the signs of aging. The advice of my dermatologist, Dr Grace Pac, stay with me -- “use Neutrogena with an SPF” -- and perhaps some fillers for the age issue. But wisdom of the ages has taught me to be more willing and open – so I decided to give Tanda's a try.

With the red rays pressed against my face (I realized after a few days it doesn’t work any better with my face actually touching the plastic head), I began once a day. The system comes with a cleanser designed to enhance the light treatment and an anti-aging serum. The cleanser made my skin feel dry. Not a good sign, so I reverted back to my velvety winter milk cleanser by Suki. Once a day, as suggested after cleansing, I shined the Tanda on my face. The light is emitted in concentrated rays. Like an electric toothbrush, the device beeps to let you know how much time to stay on a particular area.

Because there is no cream to be slapped on, no pill to take and little effort required, I didn’t look for results – occasionally I even forgot to use it. Until, about a week later, a few people asked if I had been in the sun. Then I noticed some brightness to my face. This gave me incentive. I used the device consistently until the light began to fade. The Tanda turned on for a few seconds, then off. I recharged -- still no luck.

Frustrated, I went back to the less-immediate ways that require a bit of discipline to get vitality and glow back in my face: at least eight hours of sleep a night, lots of water, a mud mask from Alaska Glacial Mud Co, a yoga class at Kula -- and $275 back in my pocket.

~Sara Costello

Tanda Light Therapy, available exclusively at Sephora;
Tanda Skincare for more info

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Bowling Road-Test: All-Star Lanes
All American, Cut-Price Fun (but Shame About the Décor)

Brick Lane -- most fondly known for its large Bangladeshi community and vast selection of restaurants specializing in some of the finest Anglo-Indian cuisine anywhere -- is fast becoming known for its large retro community and huge array of fine vintage boutiques. Unfortunately, the street once celebrated for its East-meets-West diversity is now becoming engulfed by the Western love of alcoholic over-indulgence, and dresses from the 1950s. It was somewhat inevitable, then, that one day a company specializing in catering to both lovers of alcohol and retro-chic would take the opportunity to cash in on the Western end of Brick Lane.

Cue All-Star Leisure Group Limited, to open the doors to All-Star Lanes, their 3rd ‘boutique’ bowling establishment, on Brick Lane. Co-directors Mark von Westenholz and Adam Breeden promise “a marriage of bowling, cocktails, the finest diner cuisine and unforgettable music.”

Marriage, it seems, is not the harmonious union it used to be. As we all know, 10-pin bowling rose to fame in the 1950s, and for some has never really shaken its fey ‘50s charm, one which All-Star lanes has taken and halfheartedly run away with. We are greeted by well-turned-out staff -- all ‘50s dresses, red lips and Happy Days hair dos -- but upon further inspection, it soon becomes clear this uniform resembles that of a fashion-conscious TGI Fridays. Funnily enough the menu isn’t that far off Fridays either, featuring wings, ribs, burgers -- all including the word ‘American’ in their description. First impressions are important, and sadly for All-Star Lanes, the first thing you see as you walk in is the restaurant area, which can be best described as ‘Ikea does Grease.’

But, on to the bowling, which is what people primarily come for: one game is surprisingly well priced for ‘boutique’ bowling, at 5.50 pounds per game (about $10), which rules out the popular notion that the lanes were primarily built for the city boys of nearby Liverpool St and Bank.

Beyond the obvious hilarity and enjoyment a good game of bowling can bring, the lanes were a little disappointing -- a lot more could have been done with the space. It’s stylish, yes, but there’s so much more potential here than a whole wall of black-painted breezeblocks and some funky lighting. If you are going to go for the ‘50s theme you really need to go for it -- otherwise you have to go for the other end of the spectrum, and that’s the super bowling complex with arcades, flashing lights, loud music, the whole shebang. All-Star Lanes lies somewhere flaccidly in the middle.

Neighboring the six lanes is the venue’s saving grace: a super-smart bar 100 times more inviting than the restaurant. It boosts several curvy leather-clad booths and a well stocked bar boosting several rare American spirits and difficult-to-pull-off cocktails, that judging by the looks on the recipient’s faces, were successfully rendered. It is also twice as packed as the 200-seat restaurant area, despite being a quarter of the size. All Star Leisure would have done very well to stick to just the cocktail bar and lanes at the front.

Either way, by the look of the packed lanes and the line for the bowling shoes, it already seems that All Star’s Brick Lane gamble has already paid off. The future can only offer more gain for them: As we speak plush apartments and two new shopping centered train stations are flying up all within 10 minutes of the lanes. This will no doubt lead to a never-ending influx of cocktail-guzzling, pin-hungry corporate groups and parties.

~Kevin Soar

All-Star Lanes, 95 Brick Lane, London E16QL. 020 7426 9200

The Verdict:

Looks: 2/10
Fun: 9/10
Service: 7/10
Price: 7/10

Overall ... 25/40
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Road-Test: Late-Night Vyner Street
Finding the Next Gen of Young British Artists in Six Steps

With the fantastical claim of having the “highest concentration of artists in the world,” Hackney, East London still remains the advertising agencies’ main port of call to head-hunt graphic designers, illustrators, filmmakers and many other creatives to push their wares. This geographical focus of artists developed itself in the ‘80s, when cheap rent and large amounts of empty warehouse spaces made Hoxton Square, Curtain Road, and Charlotte Road in Shoreditch the adopted home of British artists.

Things rapidly changed when the White Cube opened its large, fancy doors on Hoxton Square in 2000; the area was then transformed into the condition we find it in now: ‘cool.’ But with that tag the inevitable came -- where the ad agencies first came to headhunt, they now came to home-hunt. The yuppies flooded into this quirky newly-discovered area, rents went up, and artists were forced to move to a cheaper and (back then) more unattractive area. Most of them only managed to budge less than a mile further east, and the key result of that is the rise -- and rise -- of Vyner Street.

In the same way the yuppies looted their beloved Hoxton, the artists frog-marched themselves into Vyner Street, and what had been the epicenter of London’s rag trade was quickly transformed into a hotbed of over a dozen galleries and studios.

Time Out magazine, in conjunction with the British Arts Council, has recently come up with the idea of First Thursdays, whereby every first Thursday of the month, East London opens its galleries and museums till late at night. This December 4th sees Vyner Street as the place to be: It will host what can be best described as its own mini art festival: there is free beer, a pub and loads of exhibitions. Despite this, there doesn’t usually tend to be much artistic debate and consideration going on-– it’s more hanging out, drinking and flirting. Free booze+artists+locals+street usually equals trouble -- but to make your experience as a Vyner first-timer a perfect one, and a lot less scary, stick with these below steps, and you shall surely experience Vyner Street to the max, and discover a new generation of artists along the way.

1: Get started
Get all your friends together. You’ll probably lose them all, as this just happens in festival situations like these. But the idea of going with a big family is fun, right? Make sure to get to Vyner Street in time, and start your Vyner-walk at 7pm the latest. Galleries close at 9ish, so you should get the most out of it and visit all of them.

2: The Off License (for drink)
Since we all love a bargain (and because free beers run out quickly at the galleries), buy your beers at the Off License. It’s half the price of the beer at the pub, and you will appreciate the helping hands of the local shopkeepers later on as you stagger home. Don’t feel bad about drinking on the street either; everyone on Vyner Street walks around drinking out of cans and wine bottles. It’s a hedonist feast.

3: Art
With a continuously changing program of up-and-coming as well as established artists, we advise you to not just stick to two or three galleries, but devote your entire evening to Vyner Street, and check out all the galleries from top to bottom of the street. In case you want to check in advance which exhibitions are currently on, websites such as Art Rabbit and First Thursday are very useful.

4: Drink (again)
There is a great traditional British pub on Vyner Street -- The Victory. With its free jukebox, dusty carpet, pool table, rather smelly half outside-half inside toilets and drunk regulars at the bar, it might not be the classiest place in the world, but it sure is fun. Lots of the gallery people and local artists hang out here on First Thursday evenings, so it’s a great spot for people watching, networking and general schmoozing.

5: Eat
A small glass of beer might be equal in calories to eating two whole Subways with extra cheese, but since you skipped your dinner to rush to Vyner Street, you’ll probably be starving by now. Around the corner from Vyner Street, on Mare Street, are hundreds of great cheap Vietnamese restaurants. Our own favorite is Tres Viet, which also has a Bring Your Own booze policy. (PS: go for the salt and pepper squid and dry papaya salad here; they’re both fab.)

6: The after party (drink again, again)
There are three things you can do now: go home, get even more drunk and head back to the Victory, or drink cocktails in style and dance with the avant garde at the super-cool Bistrotheque around the corner from Vyner Street. This bar/restaurant/theater happens to be run by the same people that turned the East London boozer The Bricklayers Arms into the hangout for the YBAs (Young British Artists) in the ‘90s. Launching in 2004, The Bistroteque offers arty dinners, burlesque and tranny shows, not only to the now older and more successful group of artists to whom you should cling to for free drinks; but also to the new generation of cool kids, such as Mika Doll, Ryan Styles, Jodie Harsh, Scottee, and hubby/artist/printmaker James Unsworth-- who you should cling to for, well, another after-party.

~Freddie Janssen


For more info, see:
artrabbit.com
firstthursdays.co.uk
bistrotheque.com
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Restaurant Road-Test: Sheridan Square
Classic Eatery Favors High-End Hush over Celeb-Grabbing

The West Village has gone through a radical transformation in just 40 short years. In the ‘60s it was filled with hippies, war protestors, and gay and lesbian couples happy to live their lives relatively free from street-side discrimination. Today it still has all of those groups – but it also contains Cosmo-sipping Sex and the City girls, celebrity residents, baby carriages a plenty, about 1,000 Marc Jacobs stores, and designer cupcakes.

At the crux of this historic area is Sheridan Square – it’s actually sort of a triangle, really, down around 7th Ave. in the West Village’s literal heart. Nearby, many chic restaurants (remember Moomba?) have lived and died in the past decade and a half, and the latest outpost in this area is called, quite simply, Sheridan Square. The restaurant features chef Franklin Becker, who did time both at the uber-successful Brasserie in the Seagram Building in midtown, as well as a stint as Ron Perelman’s personal chef.

Design-wise, this place is about longevity rather than flash-in-the-pan: multi-toned wood planks, black and white photography, brown leather banquettes and a panoply of masculine earth tones give off a vibe that’s unexciting yet also unpretentious and somewhat elegant. It’s not really the best for a hot date or business dinner where you want to impress ten over-the-top clients, but for a quiet upscale dinner with someone you like, it fits the bill.

On a Saturday night, the restaurant was happily crowded (which isn’t the case everywhere in NYC these days) – the maitre’d and waiter were downright St. Louis-friendly. “If you have any questions, ask me – we want you to be happy,” the waiter said – and they had no idea my friend and I were in reviewing this place.

We started with an escargot appetizer, which was good but not quite as garlicky and slap-your-butt-with-your-tongue good as in the best French places. A special soup of chicken stock, delicate sweet sausage and leeks was much more successful – a real autumnal joy. The menu touts its “cherrywood-grilled” items as an entrée option – my friend had a medium-rare rib-eye steak, and I had the trout. My fish was really well done, oily enough to have a lot of flavor, but not too much; the steak, said my friend (and I agreed), was just average. That wood-burning oven just made it taste too -- woody. Finally, a foie gras torchon was a well-oiled machine from this former Brasserie alum, and would do great in any good French restaurant in the city. The flavor here – vibrant American with a tinge of French – is well-executed – but, to be honest, it has been done before.

Dessert was very good – a delicate strawberry shortcake that was feather-light, and the perfectly-executed S’mores – about the highest-end version you’ll ever find, with thick chocolate ganache. That dessert says pretty much everything you need to know about this place – everything is well-executed – it just doesn’t hit you over the head as new or innovative. If you’re the type to wear a flashy baguette-diamond Rolex, it’s not for you. If you’ve got a vintage Patek Philippe on your wrist with nary a logo, though, you’ll appreciate this place’s very classical, un-Sex and the City, non-blingy vibe.

~Stephen Milioti

Sheridan Square, 134 7th Ave. South (at W. 10th St.), 212.352.2237

Rating:
Looks- 8/10
Taste- 7/10
Value- 7/10
Service- 8/10

Total ...30/40

First photo by Kreiger for Eater
Second photo via New York Journal
Third photo by Steven Richter for Insatiable Critic
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Venue Road-Test: The Bell House
Gowanus Welcomes Its New Hideaway Hangout

For the last decade, New Yorkers have witnessed the gentrified waistband of Williamsburg nightlife bust its gut. Spilling over into the Greenpoint, Bushwick and Bed-Stuy areas, everyone has unfortunately seen the rise of the term "hipster" in vernacular. With so much in flux, one time-honored question remains: Does anyone know where a girl can get a decent drink around here?" The best advice: Go west-- southwest, to be exact.

Welcoming a solution to the pervasive problem, the people behind Union Hall-- purveyors of the cozy library-themed pub, basement music venue, and indoor bocce ball court, teamed with the owners of Brooklyn Heights' Floyd for a larger endeavor-- The Bell House, which opened in September. As their respective reputations had swollen, so did the crowds. And the bottlenecks one had to maneuver seemed impenetrable, especially if coupled with thirst. Not to mention, just the caliber of the bands booked for Union Hall alone merited a larger space. So they looked towards the previously uncharted territory of Brooklyn's Gowanus Canal.

Perched on the timberline between Park Slope's classic brownstones and the industrial Red Hook warehouses, this location feels tucked away yet is actually located conveniently only two blocks from the 4th Avenue F train. Once crowds hang a left onto 7th Street, residences peel away on the walk downhill. After crossing 3rd Avenue, the reaction may be a nervous "Do I have this address right?" but continuing west leads right to the doorstep. If anything, the deserted atmosphere makes the actual entry into the Bell House more dramatic.

After an ID check with one of Union Hall's trademarked good-natured security guys, duck into a spacious lounge with no bottleneck in sight. While this 1920s structure was formerly the storefront that housed a printing press, the new setting eradicates any memory of heavy metal equipment with the wainscotting, gentle lights, and cushy seats around the perimeter. The bar runs the entire width of the front so there is room for everyone. In house special concoctions, named in honor of landmark indie albums ($6 to $8) are for the taking-- and specifically notable choices include in the Pinkerton (a la Weezer), Parklife (courtesy of Blur), and the piece de resistance White Light White Heat (inspired by the The Velvet Underground, $13). Draft, can, and bottled beers abound-- and the wine list (mulled included) is set to expand this winter. Pad your stomach lining with fresh handmade DUB Pies from the Down Under Bakery, and special events and concerts bring huaraches and pupusas from the famous Red Hook Vendors, with more menu offerings coming.

After a second round of drinks, patrons can head toward the second part of the venue: a true one-two-punch to the incredible setting. Pass the ticket booth, obtain the magic hand stamp, and enter the true heart of Bell House: 25-foot-high, arched wooden ceilings preside over a grandiose stage set off by the Twin Peaks-influenced red drapes. The stage right holds yet another bar-- this one slightly elevated, appropriate for vertically-challenged spectators to perch on the steps for a better view. Unlike many venues, there are no columns to obstruct the view and a sweeping vista is lit by giant chandeliers. And the sound system is state of the art, serving 350 concert-goers (or 200 seated for mellow events).

The opening weekend offered free shows by Matt Pond PA and the The Lilys (hot off their All Tomorrow's Parties appearance). Since then, the Born Ruffians, The Veils, Liam Finn, Plants and Animals, and Grizzly Bear side project Department of Eagles have graced the stage, along with Eugene Mirman, Michael Showalter, and Aziz Ansari bringing up the comedy end.

With room for everyone now that Union Hall's Secret Science Club will take place at this new venue, Bell House will continue with the popular Outsmarted: Music Trivia Night series, hosted by Indie Rock icons. And as for the house specialty, drinks will rotate seasonally, with a Daydream Nation cocktail (for fans of Sonic Youth) in the near future. Overall, the venue leaves little reason to not partake-- providing 3-hour-long 2-for-1 happy hours on weekdays and an ample host of cabs on 4th Avenue heading back into Manhattan.

The Bell House merits a standing ovation for many things-- the affable staff, clean bathrooms, well-chosen soundtrack pumping in the front lounge, and stellar lineups offered in the back. But most notable is the overall spirit of the place, derived from the creators who stuck out their necks with a vision to create one of the most welcoming spaces in the city from scratch. And the fact that patrons might bump into Carl Newman or David Cross is icing on the cake.

~Abbey Braden

The Bell House, 149 7th St, Brooklyn NY. (718) 643-6510


First and fifth photos by Sam Horine
Second, fourth, and sixth photos, courtesy of The Bell House
Third photo by Abbey Braden
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Restaurant Road-Test: Porchetta
Porking Out in the East Village

Porchetta is what you get when you take a whole pig, roast it, gut it, stuff it back with its innards, and impart plenty of special seasoning. Might sound disgusting on paper to a steak-eatin’ Texan, but it’s about as integral to Italian culture as Vespas and Valentino. It’s true Euro comfort food.

New York chef Sara Jenkins has made this rich dish the raison d’etre of her new East Village restaurant entitled, quite aptly, Porchetta. The menu is simple – centered squarely around the title track – and you can count the menu items on less than two hands. It’s all very focused.

And Jenkins has the experience for it: She has worked in Manhattan Italian restaurants like Il Buco, and has her own take on porchetta, with pork loins from Hampshire hogs wrapped in pork bellies and seasoned with thyme, rosemary, sage, garlic, fennel pollen, salt and pepper. A Saturday evening visit to the restaurant with a friend had us try two of the most iconic specialties on the brief menu – the porchetta sandwich, and the platter. The platter of straight porchetta is a purist’s dream – the meat is tender, juicy and rich – very good, except for a little too liberal a dose of salt. Yes, salt is important for a food like this – no one wants un-seasoned pork -- but it’s just too much of it, especially considering all the other great seasonings. That saltiness is more tempered in the porchetta sandwich, where the rich meat is nicely counterbalanced by warm, buttery mixed Italian greens, including green beans that are sublimely garlicky – the whole thing melts into a Sullivan St. bakery ciabatta roll. Excellent, this one.

One sour note was the vegetarian nod here – a mozzarella sandwich with peppers, herbs and tomatoes. It’s just an also-ran among the porchetta – bland, boring, and won’t give vegetarians a reason to venture into this house of pork worship.

Of special note: the low prices. There’s great timing here, with this place opening during one of our greatest financial downturns ever, with even moderately wealthy folks trying to return their Birkin bags for a refund. At only $9, that porchetta sandwich is not only delicious, but it’s quite a value. Another value, at $4, is the side of roasted potatoes – also a little too salty, but peppered with porchetta “crispy ends,” excellent autumn comfort food. My friend and I got full here for well under $40 – same price as Harry’s Burritos nearby, but ten times more sophisticated in taste. (PS – no alcohol yet – a beer and wine license is pending.)

The service is perfectly pleasant – innocuous enough, if a little flat and frowny. But you don’t except smiles at East Village places. And it’s smart-looking – a nice aesthetic moment combining rustic and modern. Though it’s designed largely for takeout, a marble countertop, steely stools and quaint black-and-white floor tiling is a pleasant place to eat your pork in a fashionable, nouveau-East-Village-looking environment. Overall, this spot has good timing, strong quality, and comes out as a really strong contender, provided they can stop tipping that salt shaker so much.

~Stephen Milioti


Porchetta, 110 E. 7th St. (212) 777.2151

Rating:
Taste- 7.5/10
Looks- 7.5/10
Value- 9.5/10
Service- 7/10

Overall ... 31.5/40


First photo by kathyylchan via Flickr
Second photo by dpstyles via Flickr
Third & fourth photos by ultraclay! via Flickr
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Road-Test: The Gonzo Tapes: The Life and Work of Dr. Hunter S. Thompson
Sobering Wisdom Within Rambling Madness

While the last few years have seen cultural legacies like Johnny Cash posthumously exploited, the digital age has also allowed for some well-deserved, high-quality archival resurrections. To that end, 2008 bore witness to Alex Gibney’s revered documentary, Gonzo, The Life And Work of Dr. Hunter S. Thompson. The film was put together to ensure the journalist/notorious hedonist’s public profile wasn't relegated to fanboy hysteria and reductive conjecture. The movie’s greatest resource, fittingly, was Thompson himself-- or at least, the writer’s ghost, as exhumed through self-recorded cassettes dug up in Colorado by Gibney, Gonzo producer Eva Orney, and Thompson archivist Don Fleming.

These tapes, spanning the years 1965 and ’75-- from his nascent stages writing for publications like The Nation to the peak of his counter-culture notoriety-- are being released October 28 in a five-disc audio box set, produced by Fleming, titled The Gonzo Tapes: The Life And Work of Dr. Hunter S. Thompson.

Without the aid of a visual narrative, cinematic editing, and talking-head testimony, The Gonzo Tapes can become arduous listening. There is plenty of requisite madness, particularly as the chronologically structured set meanders into its halfway stretches. But Disc 1, recorded during Thompson’s year on the road with the Hell's Angels (later published as Hell’s Angels: A Strange And Terrible Saga) is the most coherent, concise distillation of the intellect, instinct, and charisma that endeared him to editors, readers, and subjects.

Like an undercover agent infiltrating the mafia or a drug ring, Thompson engenders the Angels’ trust by effortlessly empathizing with their dilemma (modern outlaw in search of the American Dream through radical means). And Thompson’s ability to communicate the complexity of their mission was a product of his non-judgmental thoughtfulness. After interviewing Angels chapter leaders like Terry The Tramp about everything from the law to non-violent intake of peyote (while listening to Joan Baez), Thompson concludes they are not thugs, but merely a part of the grand tradition of outsiders.

But by Disc 2, Thompson’s descent into neuroses, addiction, and megalomania take grip. Both Discs 2 and 3 play out over the course of he and Oscar Zeta Acosta’s (the inspiration for Benicio del Toro’s role in Terry Gilliams’s Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas) misadventures during the National District Attorney’s Conference On Narcotics & Dangerous Drugs in Las Vegas. While these might titillate Thompson followers, they make a sobering impression in the larger context of the collection.

Including a lot of hotel-room and road-trip antics, Thompson excoriates Acosta, saying, “You’ve put that fuckin Chivaz Regal in the coke. What have you done? You asshole... That’s a crime against nature,” or Acosta doing a faux-politicized, glorified "Crank Yankers" style routine when he badgers a phone operator for several minutes for the location of the American Dream, because a friend told him that, “If you’re in Las Vegas, look for the American Dream, cause that’s where you’ll find it.”

However, the further Thompson removes himself from journalistic objectivity and inserts himself into the story, the more valuable the tapes are, in that they allow listeners to step in as fly on the wall. Throughout stretches of excessive mumbling are humanizing touches, like Brewer & Shipley’s “One Toke Over The Line” rollicking out of his convertible’s radio, or Led Zeppelin’s “Whole Lotta Love” blaring during a particularly wacked-out, blacked-out hotel monologue. Given how Thompson was so self-consciously hip, it’s bizarre to listen in on his selective musical interests, and how they parallel the spirited highs and near-despondent almost-lows of his travels.

There are also moments of priceless, unplanned irony. When Neil Diamond’s “I Am, I Said” can be made out beneath Thompson’s diction while he urinates and declares, “Anybody that is in search of the American dream needs a lawyer, a doctor and a bodyguard, because there’s no other way to look for it without that sort of guidance and counseling,” you can’t help but smile at the kismet collision.

The final two discs in The Gonzo Tapes require the most attention. Disc 5, in particular, is largely negligible as eavesdropping, outside of casual, agitated references to Washington Post Editor Ben Bradlee and its publisher, Katherine Graham, Rolling Stone publisher Jann Wenner and conversation with renowned reporter Gloria Emerson that should satiate journalism geeks. But given the abbreviated 1975 tapes cover a relatively fruitless Thompson tenure in Saigon, the snippets lack nostalgic meat to chew on.

Disc 4, then, could have arguably been The Gonzo Tapes’ cutoff. At this point, burned out following the 1972 presidential campaign and generally drug-addled, Thompson regressed into his most tangential thought comas. In the midst of putting together a Rolling Stone piece titled "Cocaine Papers By Sigmund Freud," Thompson, having been abusing the drug quite liberally, makes feral animal noises for seconds on end, and responds to visitors with paranoid threats. That is, when not musing on a never-completed masterwork dubbed Guts Ball, about which he concluded he “may as well just make a Broadway play out of it too. Screen, live drama, novel, the whole thing. Guts Ball: The Great American Novel. Use flashbacks and dialogue. [People] mumbling back and forth to each other about lost dreams and memories, nightmares that come back on them, so nobody knows who’s crazy after a while.”

But as evidenced in that last stream of consciousness, the central themes from seven years earlier in Bass Lake are still there, as they were during his travels with Acosta in Las Vegas: the search for dreams and happiness, even if they fall outside of others’ comprehension.

This is ultimately where The Gonzo Tapes prove most useful, both as self-contained prose and historical artifact. It almost helps that these cassettes posses enormous chunks of narcotic-induced candor. We get the motivation behind the madness that created the man’s mythos, and a keener sense of sympathy for why the American Dream ultimately failed him, even if the totality of the recordings is served better in a theatrical medium that can tighten his decades of musings like a screw. It’s all too poignant, then, that these fossilized reflections and observations emerged now-- just a week prior to Election Day, no less-- a time in which Thompson’s hope may have finally been restored, and his fear and loathing may have been given cause to subside.

~Kenny Herzog
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Road-Test: Billa's Obsessions
The Photographer Talks Bikes & Fake Chanel

Picture the scene: You’re at a club; you’ve had a few too many beers, and you’re dancing like John Travolta from Saturday Night Fever. The last thing you want is a photographer shoving his camera in your face, so you can see yourself in all your goofy glory on some party blog, the next day.

But if someone like London-based photographer Billa was taking your photo, you probably wouldn’t mind. A contributor to magazines like i-D, Vogue, and XLR8R, Billa is a key documenter of London’s colorful club-scene. One look through his Flickr webpage, and you’re transported into a world full of extravagant club kids and cross-dressing queens-- all in glorious Technicolor. A courier by day and photographer by night, Billa also recently shot the new cover for Super Super Magazine of singer Santogold.

psychoPEDIA grilled the photog about his love of bikes and fake Chanel goods:

What have you been up to lately on the photography front?
The main thing was being in the "3am Eternal exhibition alongside Wolfgang Tillmans, Nan Goldin and Mark Leckey, to name a few. Also, I just covered backstage for London Fashion Week for the British Fashion Council again.

Do you ever get bored of going to clubs?
That’s like saying, “Do I get tired of boozing?” I must admit, the clubs don’t seem as good as a few years back, but there are still a few that I enjoy a lot-- "Nuke Them All" being one of my favorites. What’s the wildest thing you’ve ever seen in a club?
I think the craziest thing I saw was at the last "Nuke Them All." A naked guy was swaying from side to side whilst stroking his huge schlong, all night long.

What's something about yourself you want the public to know that they might not know already?
I get rid of my hangovers by working as a cycle courier in the daytime.

Why are you so fanatical about bikes?
I hate public transport and find that having a bike is essential to living in London – there’s no hanging around and they’re quicker too. I was on the Tube the other day to pick my girlfriend up from the airport and the guy opposite was constantly grabbing his crotch whilst the man next to me was cleaning his ears with a bit of torn up newspaper. Need I say more?

What bikes do you own?
I own four bikes. In descending order of cost: the Eai Bareknuckle track bike (fixed gear) which I built up, the Iro Angus track bike (fixed)-- also built myself, the Azonic Steelhead Pro single speed (fixed), once again, built by myself, and then the pub bike, which I found without a front wheel around the corner from my house. Having had so many bikes stolen, I now only use the pub bike when venturing out on an evening.

What is your dream bike?
I’ve recently been looking for a Colnago 80's frame, so I can build a classic racer. There are too many fools riding around Shoreditch on fixed gears these days.

How did you first get into bikes?
I got into them seriously after seeing my first Tour de France on TV. After that, I got a cheapish racer and used to ride 400 miles a week on it when I lived in Wales. Then I got into mountain biking when I moved to London and started riding fixed gear bikes.

Are bikes more important to you than women?
Certainly not, but they’re definitely more reliable.

On a different note, how did you get into an obsession with fake Chanel?
I saw an old photo of Boy George wearing a fake T-shirt and I foolishly went into a Chanel shop and asked them, “Where are the T-shirts”?

Which fakes do you own?
My favourite is my original '80s fake white T shirt, with the Chanel logo screen-printed. It’s falling apart now, so it rarely sees the light of day. I just came back from holiday in Greece, where I got a cool belt for £10. Then there’s my Chanel necklace, which I made from some earrings I bought at a market a few years ago. I always love telling people my necklace is a fake when they tell me how nice it is. I also have a Chanel surgeon's mask, which I made from a scarf bought from petticoat lane market.

What’s your dream fake Chanel item?
A Chanel baseball cap from the '80s that I saw in a shop on Brick Lane. It’s £150. I always look when I’m on holiday, but I can never find it. I will be turning my Eai bike into a Chanel bike soon, as my friend who designs vinyl stickers is going to do some Chanel ones.

~Donald Crunk @ Styleslut


First photo by Donut Minni
Second & third photos by Billa
Fourth photo by Disconnec
Fifth photo by Taisau
Sixth photo via Velospace
Seventh photo, courtesy of Billa
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Pub Road-Test: The Victoria
London's Latest Refurb Balances Locals & Lovelies

Gentrification in the east end of London is spreading faster than Lyme disease on a tick-infested nudist camp. By 2010 the massive concrete monstrosity that is the new Shoreditch Station will be finished, just as the currently palpitating financial square-mile of London engulfs everything in its wake, stopping only to top up on overpriced sushi and glance at itself in the ever-multiplying, amply-mirrored bars and clubs.

As the world slows, the building continues. London is teetering on the edge-- the same as everywhere else. Either the poor will be pushed (and priced) out of the city, or the financial core of London will crash and burn, and the buildings now buzzing with tapping keyboards and jingling pockets will soon be abandoned and buzzing with the sound of squatters hammering themselves into their new abodes.

In every affluent area, pitched between the working class, and the posh, are the artists-- living off the scrapes of the capitalist corporations, alongside and within poorer areas where rent is cheaper and inspiration thrives amongst relative destitution. When the cultures clash, it can be beautiful or brutal. But like anywhere in the world where these forces meet, a mutual respect and compromise is essential.

With this in mind, a traditional East End "boozer," The Victoria, has been revamped by a group of musicians, artists, and other various young types. Situated in an area drenched in local history-- Grove Road -- Mile End is within spitting distance of the site in which the first flying V-Bomb hit London during World War II. And for over a century, the area has struggled to bring the down-trodden area a much deserved morale boost. In the 1880’s, social commentator and novelist Walter Besant proposed and successfully built a "Peoples Palace," bringing the area a complex that included concert halls, an art school and gallery, and a library-- a creative meeting place for the local people and artists alike.

Alfie Smith-- lead singer of London punk band The Skallywags and the head of this merry group of pub revitalizers-- has set about bringing a similar establishment to the area, although the locals have thus far only tentatively glanced through the windows to meet equally tentative glances back from the cream of Shoreditch’s art and music scene.

The Victoria was once a place where locals partook in the usual pub activities of darts, pool, watching football and singing karaoke. Now, they are more likely to find an impressive schedule of London’s top parties, club nights, and bands all crammed into an exhaustive calendar that already reads like a Who’s Who of what’s hot in London.

Despite the addition of a stage and impressive DJ booth, the pub has remained faithful to its previous incarnation in setup. The Victoria bursts with surprises, from the intriguing taxidermy and beautifully decorated toilets to the tasteful artwork on the walls. It’s clear that proprietor Smith and his partner Hannah Margaret Stewart have gone all out in making this public house strikingly individual, yet with its odes to the past, it remains warmly familiar. It’s a pub tourists only dream of: with all its quirky paraphernalia and English charm, it should equally suit both the young scene-stealers and the thirsty elderly.

But, it still remains to be seen what will happen when the locals trickle in (as they inevitably will). The place is aimed most at London’s younger more liberal drinkers, where the venue and the clientele are of paramount importance. Unfortunately, there isn’t a great choice of beers, and the event lineup shows the place is looking more to attract cool young types than born-and-bred locals. Still, the inspired interior is inviting enough for the locals that just want a swift pint during the week.

Bonus points go to Smith for roping his mum in to make the majority of the pub’s food, a touching ode to home cooking. The menu, still in its infancy (only carrot and coriander soup was available on our visit), has the potential to garner its own influx of visitors, especially if the delicious soup is anything to go by.

The Victoria has promise, and could potentially become the People’s Palace for the new millennium. Plus, it's nice to see no fancy Thai dishes, no mirrored bars, and no funky house music. If the locals are patient and respectful of the new owners’ attempts to bring something interesting, exciting, and non-snobby to the area, and the new owners and patrons are equally as inviting to the locals (if, of course, well behaved) as they are to the artists and punk rock singers—then this adventurous new drinking hole has a harmonious and successful future to look forward to.

~Kevin Soar


The Victoria, 110 Grove Road, London E3 5th. 0871 984 2996.

Rating:
Trendiness: 5 pints/5
British Pub Atmosphere: 5 pints/5
Beer Selection Deliciousness: 2 pints/5
Location: 3 pints/5
Clientele: 4 pints/5

Total ... 19 pints/25
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Cosmetics Road-Test: Sophia Lamar's Secrets
Downtown's Party Princess Keeps it Chic & Simple

Sophia Lamar, downtown New York’s ubiquitous nightlife personality and model/party promoter extraordinaire, knows a thing or two about looking good. From hosting blow-out bashes with her Misshapes BFFs, sitting front-row at Fashion Week, or being featured in the pages of Vanity Fair and iD, this tall brunette never appears without a flawless face to complement her often outrageous fashion.

While Lamar has never considered herself an artist— despite the fact that painting her face is a staple of daily ritual— she was recently invited by Terrence Koh to participate in a group show at the Asia Song Society— "I Want a Little Sugar in My Bowl" —with a collage she’d composed using the most unlikely materials: used make-up tissues. Having collected them over the past 18 years, she explains, “I kept the most relevant ones, folded them inside books and boxes. I noticed they were so beautiful, like art in the making.”

While she doesn’t plan to pursue an artistic career (even though her first ever installation sold for a grand) Lamar’s face will continue to be her best canvas. psychoPEDIA spoke with her to find out what products are in her palette:

Which single cosmetic product do you use every day?
I don’t use any facial creams, because I only use Retin-A, by prescription. I swear by that. It’s my favorite thing in the world. It takes away the dead skin from your face and accelerates the birth of new cells and skin. A lot of people freak out when they start using Retin-A, but you have to keep using it. The only thing you have to do is moisturize with olive oil. I also buy this wonderful cream in Paris that you can get at any pharmacy, Embryolisse, to make new or dry skin moist again. You let the new skin form, make it very moist, then go back to Retin A. It’s a cycle.

What's your favorite cosmetic line?
I use a lot of MAC—I really love them.

Favorite place to shop for new products?
The beauty supply store on 14th Street between 5th and 6th Avenue. They sell products for face and hair. They have everything, and it really works.

What do you always carry in your purse for emergencies or touch-ups?
The only thing I bring is a lip gloss—MAC in Bare Truth.

Your favorite daytime products?
I always wear sun block and powder on top to matte the shine. I use 45 or 50 [SPF] Coppertone. You have to make sure it has the ingredients that are actual sun block. You can buy any brand— Walgreens, Nivea— you don’t have to spend lots of money on sun block.

You’ve said that you can't leave your house without eyebrows, so what do you use on yours?
I’ve been coloring my eyebrows since I was 13. Eyebrows are the frame of your eyes. Even if you don’t wear mascara or anything else, if you frame your eyes well, it’s what matters. I use a pencil that’s not too oily. If you use a soft, oily pencil, it will run. I paint them, powder them, brush them a little bit, then paint them again. Then I use a shadow that’s a same color as the eyebrows so it looks natural. I buy it from the beauty supply, 2 for a dollar, and they work really well for me.

If you want to do a dramatic look for nighttime parties, what do you use?
It depends where I’m going to be. If I’m going to be on stage doing anything in the spotlight, I always use a shimmering shadow at the base of my eyelid. I use MAC Paint— it comes in a small tube. The silver one is really beautiful-- it gives you this “Boom! Show business. I’m here, look at me!” effect.

Favorite foundation?
I love powders and oil-free foundations from NARS, particularly Mont Blanc Oil-Free. For powders, I always choose dark colors. I mix it up with baby powder, because it gives you a natural look and absorbs the oil.

Lipstick?
The new pinks from MAC are beautiful. I tend to use less lipstick, because if you paint your eyes—shadow, eyeliner, eyelashes—and then paint your lips, you look too made up. What I do is balance my lips and eyes. I’ll only use something clear, nothing too shocking.

Mascara?
Maybelline Great Lash, because the cheaper they are, the better. It’s only $5. When you compare it with a lot of other brands at $25, you think,”Who buys this?”

Makeup remover?
I clean my face with MAC Cleanse Off Oil, then regular soap and water. It’s the best way, because you take off all the residue.

Best advice to have glowing skin?
Eat right. It’s the most important thing, no matter how many creams or things you put on your face. Drink water, and always clean your face before you go to bed, because that’s when your skin breathes, and you see the results of the previous night.

What type of water is your favorite?
I drink water from the tap. In every place, the water tastes different. The water in San Francisco tastes much better than in LA. But when I moved here, the water actually tastes great! People are too panicked about what they drink. I think all bottled waters are from the tap. They say it comes from this spring or that spring, but I’ve been to those places and I don’t see springs anywhere! It’s all marketing, and I guess some people have money to burn.

~Leann Peterson
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Restaurant Road-Test: Matsugen
Is Jean-Georges' New Japanese Thrilling or Underwhelming?

Soba’s a big thing in New York, and one of the best places out there to get it, is Soba-ya. That East Village restaurant is one of the city’s tops for excellent soba at an affordable (if not super-cheap) price. But that’s NOT the restaurant being reviewed here. Instead, because the soba craze overtaking New York is beginning to infiltrate the high-end, psychoPEDIA checked out a new one, called Matsugen. The brand-new restaurant has a top-flight name behind it: Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of the eponymous Central Park restaurant, and others around the city and world.

Soba is homestyle Japanese cuisine; and, to that end, a lot of soba restaurants look homey, a little frayed around the edges maybe, as Soba-ya is, despite its excellent food. But Matsugen, befitting both its Tribeca neighborhood and its star owner – is city-slick all the way… a long, high-polished wood table punctuated by shiny steel and chrome accents. The look is Asian in its combination of simplicity and classic style. As soon as you go in, you feel like you’re entering a quietly fashionable event.

The chefs here are Japan’s Matsushita brothers, entrepreneurs there, which Vongerichten has brought here to oversee the menu. And they’ve brought plenty in their suitcases from Japan, both ingredients and ideas. The menu’s huge, divided into more than a few sections – sushi, tempura, cold soba, hot soba, kamameshi (rice cooked in an earthenware pot), and grilled meat entrees from pork belly to wagyu beef. We selected two pieces of sushi - a red snapper ($8), and sea urchin ($10), a toro scallion roll ($12), the homemade tofu appetizer ($9), and chilled asparagus with sesame sauce ($15). The sushi was just fine – not near Nobu, but certainly good. Same with the toro roll. The tofu was delicious though – fresh, milky, creamy and decadent. Unfortunately, the chilled asparagus was flat and uninspired, with a peanut-buttery taste that was unsophisticated and one-dimensional.

For the main course, we chose two soba entrees – one cold (called “rin”, a delicate, no-husk version, $15), one hot (hot noodles with ebi prawn tempura, $26), along with a simple black cod with miso ($22). The cod was good, if a bit bland, but certainly a quality piece of fish, without too much fishiness. The hot soba was very good, if also a little bland, but the cold one was extremely disappointing. One word: mush. We understand it was listed as a ‘delicate” soba but it was so mushy that the noodles were virtually indistinguishable from each other and it was sort of a salty clump. It was presented in lovely plates – and the service was generally professional, polished and unobtrusive, if a little aloof – but that soba mistake is extremely upsetting, and a glaring error considering how much good soba there is in New York.

Considering that disappointment, we’re feeling a little taken, especially remembering the restaurant that previously occupied this spot – “66,” Jean-Georges’ failed effort at a five-star Chinese restaurant, where the food was OK but about five times too expensive for what it was. That one burnt out, and this one emulates its raison d’etre – Asian cuisine with the high style and high price (ordering conservatively, we still hit $135 not counting drinks) loudly usurping the power of the food. That’s not a great combo – especially given the fact that we are currently in a recession – so perhaps fewer folks will, quite literally, buy it. While it had its bright spots, Matsugen didn’t rise above pretty good overall. We’ll head back to un-fabulous yet delicious Soba-ya.

Matsugen, 241 Church St (at Leonard St), phone 212.925.0202

~Stephen Milioti


Overall Rating:
Taste, 5/10
Atmosphere, 8/10
Service, 8/10
Value, 3/10

Total... 24/40


First, second, and last photos, courtesy of Yummyinthetummy Blog
Third photo by Stuart Spivack via Flickr
Fourth photo by Monajc via Flickr
Fifth photo, courtesy of New York Social Diary
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Road-Test: Tim Hamilton's Playlist Favorites
The Designer on His Musical Inspirations

New York City-based designer Tim Hamilton is undeniably one of fashion’s rising stars, having already earned two nominations for CFDA’s prestigious Swarovski Award for Menswear in both 2007 and 2008 for his eponymous line. The Iowa native has also had a hand in a series of recent outside projects-- he partnered with luxury eyewear designer Linda Farrow for a sunglass and was invited to create a special edition pant for Topman’s Black Trouser designer project, to coincide with the upcoming opening of the chain’s first New York flagship store.

While his past collections have reinvented eras of iconic American sportswear from the past three decades, he cites that his upcoming Spring/Summer season is inspired by the minimalism of artist Frank Stella, flawlessly combining basic hues with irreverently playful details. The constantly evolving designer, despite being a relatively fresh face in the industry, is a name that already equates with meticulous tailoring and flattering men’s silhouettes— establishing his position as a budding staple of fine American menswear.

psychoPEDIA caught up with the designer while preparing for his Spring/Summer showcase this Sunday to find out what’s playing on his iPod:

What did you listen to while preparing for your Spring/Summer collection?
There’s a lot of random music that I play. While I was designing this collection, it was around April. I was listening to Santogold, Sebastian Tellier, Holy Ghost, Digitalism, Cut Copy, Hercules and Love Affair, and Fleet Foxes. Sometimes I make playlists for each month.

Which are your favorites?
Grace Jones, Lou Reed, New Order, Joy Division, Nina Simone, Gary Nuwman, and some old Prince.

Top five in your iPod?
Crystal Castles has been on a lot, [as well as] Cut Copy, Hercules and Love Affair, Pylon, and New Order.

What is the best music to de-stress or wind down?
I love the Fleet Foxes and Sebastian Tellier’s albums, specifically “White Winter Hymnal" by Fleet Foxes and “You Belong” by Hercules and Love Affair. I really like “Tell Me What It’s Worth" by Lightspeed Champion. And there’s a Blue Noise remix of Cut Copy that’s mellow—it’s nice.

Most soothing music to mend a broken heart?
Fleetwood Mac is nice for that.

Best music for love-making?
Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young.. I love “Our House.”

Who is the ultimate musician you'd like to dress?
MGMT, in modern day gypsy dress. I’d keep their style, but give a little more refinement to it.

Musician you need to give a makeover?
Any of those pop indie bands. I would like a go at Prince. Obviously he’s very in control of his look and probably has all of his clothes custom-made and works with a tailor, but it’d be nice to get him in a contemporary world.

What music did you choose for your showcase this season?
LCD Soundsystem is going to DJ, and I trust whatever he plays will be great. I love what James [Murphy] does with his music.

What is your one guilty pleasure song?
A Madonna track. I’ve been playing “Give it to Me" a lot in the office. It gets everyone going.

Biggest difference with your upcoming collection from previous seasons?
I feel like it’s really focused. Now that it’s my fourth season, I have a really strong handle on what I’m doing as far as menswear. And I know my customer. I feel with menswear, not too many people like to push it. And I like to push it, and bring a newness to something that was stale. I feel like I have the balance in my head, where I know how I can keep it steady. I have a solid platform now.

~Leann Peterson
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Restaurant Road Test: Delicatessen
Lissy Trullie on Cheeseburger Spring Rolls & Crimes of Fashion

At Cafeteria owners' new Soho restaurant Delicatessen, Lissy Trullie’s drummer Josh Elrod waits for the rest of the band to arrive. He’s predicted their timing perfectly: "Eben will get here first. He’s always early. Next will be Harley, then Lissy. It’s always that way.” True to form, Lissy’s guitar player, Eben D’Amico, shows up in his trademark plaid shirt, suspenders, and snappy hat. They order drinks and wait for the girls.

The band got together only a few months ago with the auspicious blessings of Off-Bowery’s A-Ron, but things are moving fast: “We should all just move in together!” jokes Josh. Lissy Trullie recently played great shows at Bowery Ballroom and Santos, and there are rumors afoot of a tour with The Virgins. Led by DJ/model Lissy lead-singing upbeat, addictive tunes with sometimes-somber lyrics, Harley Viera-Newton, London creeper enthusiast and DJ, completes the ensemble on bass. “We met on the street,” Lissy says of Harley. “We were like, ‘Where’d you get your shoes? I love your top!’ and now we’re BFFs.”

Harley arrives fresh off a just-for-fun stint of bartending at Lit. She’s been learning to make mixed drinks from improbable combos of ingredients, such as “the chocolate cake shot and the peanut butter and jelly shot.” The shot connoisseur was just named the official DJ of Dior, and there’s talk of a makeup line. Courtesy of the Dior arrangement, Harley says she has “like 400 kinds of makeup in the bathroom at home.”

All really hungry by this point, we order appetizers. Josh is keen on the reuben fritters, plus the halibut tacos, fritto misto, and the cheeseburger spring rolls, recommended by the waiter. The appetizers make their appearance just before Lissy, who arrives wearing a white V-neck, a cardigan, denim cutoffs and her favorite Chanel hat. At Eben’s urging, Lissy orders a dirty vodka martini, which takes forever to arrive. She is selective with the appetizers because she’s allergic to everything. Josh seconds that: “We’re a very allergic band,” he says.

Despite their various ailments, they eat. Josh loves his reuben fritters, but Eben is scandalized when the halibut tacos are served cold: “I’ve never eaten a cold taco in my life, and I’m not going to start now.” Lissy and Harley are deep in discussion over the cheeseburger spring rolls, which Lissy has braved her milk allergies to try: “It tastes like something your mom would make when she’s going out,” Lissy muses, “Just put ‘em in the microwave!”

Eben scopes out the bathroom, reporting that it’s “plastered with UNIQLO ads.” Lissy and Josh have worked with Terry Richardson as models, but remain unimpressed by the facilities: “Retarded,” Lissy says succinctly. Josh is more concerned about a “design flaw” in the placement of the toilet paper, which is stacked vertically toilet-side. “It’s unsanitary. People are gonna sprinkle all over that,” he shudders.

The kids are similarly underwhelmed by the staff’s Charlotte Ronson frumpy apron-type uniforms, worn over jeans and a fresh whitey. “She did a great job designing those V-neck T-shirts” Lissy sasses, who's something of a fashion authority. She was listed as one of Paper’s “Beautiful People” and recently featured in an Elle fashion spread. Aside from that, she always dresses the part. “I work in fashion, so I get a lot of free stuff,” she explains.

Around the time our entrees arrive, the glass garage-door outer walls of Delicatessen come down and the music pumps up, beginning with some alarming techno, or, as the band put it, “bad Eurotrash.” But the band remains good-natured and when confronted with an ominous-looking fish and chips, Harley is a good sport, claiming that she’s full from the appetizers. The “fish” in question is a large fried monkfish, “an unorthodox choice for fish-and-chips,” according to Eben, the band’s connoisseur, who grew up doing tastings at his father’s bevy of restaurants. But when Josh gets a whiff of the monkfish, the truth emerges: “The breading is mushy!” to which Harley concedes, “I’ve had a lot of fish and chips in my day, and this is not one of the best.” And regarding his Cantonese-style Atlantic salmon, Eben adds,“Like everything else here, half-baked!”

The fried chicken in a bucket with jalapeno corn bread gets a thumbs-up by the band, who agree that Delicatessen does best when keeping things simple. “They’d do well to stick to drinks and traditional bar food. When they try to get creative, they fall flat on their faces,” Eben elaborates.

When dessert comes, they are in for a fright: Harley’s S’mores, featuring deep-fried marshmallows. “They ruined S’mores!” she laments. However, the black and white cookie sundae, is actually a hit with the band. Lissy also OK’s her homemade lemon sorbet.

The band launches into talks about plans for their new blog, which is to be “lo-fi and ghetto” and pass around a tally sheet where they rank Delicatessen’s food, service, and ambience on a scale from 1 to 10. The scores were 5, 6, and 2…“uh-oh!”

As she finishes Eben’s drink, the gentle-natured Harley delivers the bottom line with brutal precision: “If a date brought me here I’d be totally bummed. He would not get laid.”

~ Christine Whitney
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Record Road-Test: Fucked Up's Favorite Punk Vinyls
Damian Abraham Reveals His Addiction to Rarities

Damian Abraham is possibly the most instantly recognizable figure in hardcore punk music today. The image of his full frame-- drenched in sweat, blood, saliva, beer and (more than likely) even more blood-- has a tendency to remain seared upon the retinas and subconscious of the musically aware and casual observers alike.

Through his role as mouthpiece for Fucked Up’s wholly idiosyncratic, and uncompromising synergy of traditional hardcore anger, speed and force, Damian has become the focal point of a band that has always been much more than just a band. Fucked Up is a movement-– a band that convert listeners from every margin, who recognize this music is a way beyond carbon-copy reproduction of the current scene. The band recently signed to indie label Matador in a worldwide deal that makes this threat an ever-growing reality.

As far as they stray from the confines of perceived notions of punk “normality,” the band’s stringent adherence to the 7” record is perhaps their only concession to hardcore conventionality.

It is no surprise, then, to discover that all members of the band are vinyl-obsessive. Abraham, aka, “Pink Eyes,” is the group’s self-confessed crowned record nerd. PsychoPEDIA caught up with Damian to source his rarest little circles of wax, and find out which of these precious commodities he would sell his left leg for:

How old were you when you bought your first record?
Three or four. It was the Madness "Our House" 7". I fell in love with that song because it was on the radio and TV back then. I can’t remember the exact store I got it in, but I guess I would have bought it somewhere with my dad.

How old were you when you realized that you were a “record collector,” as opposed to someone who just bought and listened to records?
About 17. I was a late bloomer. I didn't get ‘real’ about it until I was 19 though. That was when I started trading and digging. I can remember going to a friends house, and he was flipping a bunch of punk singles to focus more on reggae and jazz. I bought a ton of stuff from him and just thought to myself: "Well this is my life now."

Can you remember what the first punk record you ever bought?
I think it would have been a Swingin' Utters “Nothing To Rely On” 7".

What came first for you: punk obsession or record obsession?
Punk was first. I bought records about a year or two after, but it was more for ‘the music’ then. I swiftly became pretty obsessed though. The two go hand in hand. I think it’s because punk, by its very nature, is outsider music that appeals to marginal personalities. These types of personalities often tend to be hoarders. If it wasn't punk I'm sure I would be collecting Star Wars toys or something else nerdy. As well as records I collect old ‘zones, tapes, fliers, the odd t-shirt. Basically: anything punk related.

What is your favorite ‘punk record?
h100 – ‘Dismantle’ 7"

What’s the rarest record you own?
I have a DRI test press of the ‘Violent Pacification’ 7" that has the wrong band on the B-side and the Integrity acetate. Or the acetatesof the first Teenage Head 7" and LP. All that stuff is pretty hard to get hold of.

Your biggest bargain finds?
My wife gave me a copy of The Subhumans ‘Death To The Sickoids’ 7". I’d wanted that forever, but I didn't really find that, so maybe we can’t count it. I once found a copy of the Action 12" with the sleeve as they were putting it in the windowdisplay of a store and bought it for a quarter. It was a bit of a mythical record to me, and to find it like that made my day. I have been lucky enough to have been given some amazing records by friends over the years, but I couldn't count those as bargains. I would say the Project X single for a few bucks or the Integrity 10" on pink with the alt sleeve for $10 are my biggest scoops.

Have you ever had to sell chunks of your collection in hard times?
I have sold stuff, but always to buy other stuff. I guess it is more like reinvesting.

Which single record do you own the most variants of?
I want to one day have all the various versions of the Confront 7". I'm one away now, and I have six already on the h100 7". I'm a huge loser.

No you aren’t. You’re my hero. Which single record that you do not own do you wish that you did?
The Fix ‘Vengeance’ 7" It is such a mythical record, but apart from that, most of the stuff that I want now are just cool records I didn't know about. Not so much heavy hitters. I long for the purity of obscurity.

As someone who still digs in crates, what are your feelings towards eBay as a forum for record exchange and collecting?
I don't use it anymore, but that is only because I enjoyed it too much at one point. I think it has leveled the playing field and forced collectors to step up their game.

Finally, do you have a favorite ‘non-punk’ record?
“Phantom Of The Paradise” Soundtrack .

~James Knight


To search from some of Damian's favorites, check out these record shops:
Rough Trade East, 91 Brick Lane, London
Princeton Record Exchange, 20 South Tulane St, Princeton NJ
Singles Going Steady, 2219 2nd Ave Suite C, Seattle WA
Sonic Machine, 143 rue St-Maur, Paris
Core Tex Records, Oranienstrasse 3, Berlin
Bleecker Bob's, 118 West 3rd St, New York
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Restaurant Road-Test: Beach Blanket Babylon
Suzanne Schurgers Talks Art & Pornstar Martinis

With a sharp bob haircut and pencil skirt, London-based gallery owner Suzanne Schurgers certainly looks the part of a successful gallerist. Originally from the south of Holland, Schurgers flew the comfort of her Dutch nest and settled in the heart of London’s grimy yet artist riddled East End-- and, although still only 25 runs her own successful gallery.

Vegas Gallery was established two years ago in the basement of a dusty old warehouse building and quickly rose to fame for showcasing work from such artists as Kurt Cobain's favorite musician Daniel Johnston. Like many of the area's vast warehouses, it represents a ghost of the old industrious East End. Now completely transformed, it's also haunted by the various unusual and strange characters that make up the multimedia video directing and animation collective Minivegas of which Schurgers is a part.

Just around the corner of Vegas Gallery is the swanky cocktail bar/restaurant/gallery Beach Blanket Babylon opened by eccentric entrepreneur Graham Rebak this past spring, it has already become the main hangout of London’s elite club kids.

psychoPEDIA took Suzanne on a brisk five-minute walk around the corner from her gallery to sample the delights of a place that proudly announces itself as a perfect setting to 'expect the unexpected, indulge and enjoy, wear your best cocktail dress, rouge your lips, ruffle your hair, and join us for dinner, darling':

How did a young Dutch girl end up running such a successful London gallery?
Well...I studied Fine Art at the Rietveld Academie, in Amsterdam. I always imagined myself to be an artist for the rest of my life, but somehow I ended up on the other side, running Vegas Gallery. I love it, though.

Any cocktails tickle your fancy?
The Porn Star martini is my usual. I think I’ll have a personalized one, though. Let's chuck in some vodka, red currant, and a little vanilla.

Whats the relationship between Minivegas and Vegas Gallery?
My brother Luca set up Minivegas-and Vegas Gallery is basically a side project of that. Once Minivegas was up and running, we discovered there was an unused space in the basement. We had this crazy idea one day of starting up a gallery. One month later Vegas Gallery had it's first private view. Since that day we just kept on going and we keep meeting more interesting people every day.

How was meeting Daniel Johnston?
Meeting Daniel was a big moment for all of us at Minivegas. We made a music video for his song "True Love Will Find You In The End." Daniel and his brother came to watch the final edit in our studio. He’s a devout Christian, and although he knew there was going to be a Devil in the music video, he really freaked out when he saw it. But later he said he thought our devil was 'pretty cool!' I asked Daniel that day if he wanted to show some of his drawings at Vegas Gallery. A few months later the exhibition was on, and we had an incredible amount of visitors every day and received so much press. The show was nearly sold out.

How’s the cocktail you ordered?
Hmmm, So refreshing, it’s exactly what I needed. Need some food now. I’m in the mood for perhaps some pan-seared scallops to start, and lobster as a main.

So you're a video director, plus gallery owner. Sounds like a busy life.
I work very closely with a selected group of artists that we are representing and it’s very important to me to have a good relationship with them. The most fun about having a gallery is that you meet so many different kinds of people. It’s a very social job, I go to private views all the time, drink champagne, eat canapés… It’s part of the job.

In September Simon Willems is doing a solo show at Vegas Gallery. He has been included in Art Review magazine’s prestigious ‘100 Future Greats’ list…
He is an incredible artist! I love his work. Simon is making a new body of work for this show, which consists of large-scale paintings of dinosaurs, dragons, pig's eyes, ballet dancers, and a white Darth Vader.... 


What do you think of the Art Deco style at Beach Blanket Babylon?
I love the décor. And the vibe is so different. You can see city boys in their suits, ‘normal’ people, posh people, trendy Shoreditch types, and then there are the glamorous party kids. The mix of people is so unique. And, we get cocktails that are made especially to our personal taste! I always feel like such a princess when I come here. Need I say more?

How are you enjoying the scallops?
I’m loving the scallops in truffle sauce on a bed of butternut squash. In Holland we say: It’s like an angel peeing on your tongue!

Do you go here often, since it’s around the corner from your gallery?
I take our clients and collectors here quite often, and always order the Pornstar Martini. The kitchen is definitely good for dinner meetings and perfect in case I want to impress people.

What’s your verdict on the ongoing gentrification of East London?
I love it--we can’t have enough places like this around. I think it’s a great mix, gritty streets, with decadence hiding more and more in every corner.

~Freddie Janssen


All photos by Kate Cox
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Road-Test: Kenzo Minami’s Favorite Sports Equipment
The Artist on Crazy Horses & Exoskeletal Structures

The Sports Business Journal claims that the sports field is one of the fastest-growing industries in the United States. Billions are spent each year on everything and anything athletic; from high-profile endorsements to the basic running shoes you buy at your local store. It is therefore easy to conclude that more than a few people are interested in this “sports caper” -- including the unlikely figure of Japanese-American artist Kenzo Minami.

Known for his minimalist and highly intricate art, as well as high-end product design work for sportswear heavyweights including Nike and Reebok, Minami has a lesser-known love of sports and the associated paraphernalia and philosophy. Psychopedia probed and prodded Minami into admitting his favorite sports equipment whilst learning of his dangerous past as a sword-fighting horse rider:

Did you play a lot of sports when you were younger? When I was really young, I did Kendo, which is basically Japanese sword fighting. Then when I went to high school I joined the Equestrian Team. I don't think I would ever want to get back into it again, since I had seen some scary things when I was on the team. I remember someone died together with her horse right before I joined the team -- they both fell into the river and broke their necks. I only discovered that, however, after I had joined.

Jeez, did you partake in any other less dangerous sports?
I was a good runner, since you get that sort of muscle genetically (or so I hear) and my father used to be a really good long distance runner. I held a record in Junior High for long distance at some point. But these all were when I was a kid, and I now barely walk -- I just hail a cab instead. I did take some Capoeira classes around ‘99, but the class was held on Saturday mornings and I was never in the shape to stand on my head (I could barely stand on my feet because of Friday nights), and had to stop after quite a short period of time.

Do you play sports now?
No, sadly. Though I do dance a lot.

Have you ever designed sports gear?
Yes actually, I have done 2 shows with Nike -- one was a mural painting for their then-new space, and the other was a painting for a show. I also designed a Reebok Pump Fury I trainer as well as the ad for Reebok’s ["I Am What I Am" Campaign].

Weren’t you in the ad?
Um yes.

Your work is very graphic and mathematical. What do you think is in your style that could be applied to sportswear, or can represent sports culture?
I can be pretty flexible with my design even though I had been intentionally releasing particular styles to fit into certain realms of images at some period of my career. Since I finally feel that I can do whatever I want (and feel confident enough to do whatever I want), I would like to design more stuff that does not necessarily look like I have done them (and I have been doing that for some time now). So I would like to tackle it again in a way that designs make sense to this unique culture.

How do you see sports design in its current state?
I think it is now divided into two complete extreme divisions. One is the design based on human physical ergonomics - "Sports Design" in the true sense, I suppose. The other is largely (or almost entirely) based on aesthetic - more for its emotional value. Though I do not think one is "truer" than the other, or more "right" than the other.

What’s your favorite piece/items of sporting equipment?
Cricket gear. I just love the design of them, and nobody seems to be paying enough attention to this particular sport, at least in the United States.

Are there any items of sporting equipment you would like to re-design?
Any sports with protective gear, I would like to redesign - I am interested in the basic idea of protective gear or any exoskeletal structure in general.

What sporting equipment do you feel is non-improvable?
Some of the martial arts seem to be extremely refined due to thousands of years of fine tuning, so it would seem to be the most impossible to make them better, or at least to my untrained eyes. Though I am sure that they are constantly being improved and evolving.

~ Ilirjana Alushaj
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HOT SPOTS ROAD TEST: LOW KEY SUMMER HANGOUTS
Singer Diego Garcia Just Wants Some Peace & Quiet

Just the fact that you’re a “rock-star-in-residence” at the Bowery Hotel means that you’re at the top 0.01% of cool. Currently inhabiting this position is singer Diego Garcia. Born in Detroit (to parents from Argentina), educated at Brown, and living in New York almost a decade now, the singer, heretofore part of a band named Elefant, is branching out to release his first solo album.

Below you’ll find more on that, and on how his Bowery Hotel residency helped him extract his creative juices. We also got dirt on his favorite spots in his home-neighborhood of Soho:

Tell me about the residency…
It was beautiful. Every Monday around 7pm we did a kind of live rehearsal out on the second-floor terrace at the Bowery Hotel – you could hear it on the street too. The idea was to create an atmosphere to have a good time and get some dirt on the demos. We got some great feedback. We’re talking about doing a few more in September.

Really? So when’s the album going out?
Well, my priority right now is to get into the studio and hit record – I’m developing my first solo record. Should be out by end of the year.

Tell me more about the album…
I worked on it for two and a half years, and have done about 20-25 demos. The final piece was putting a live show together – taking the songs and bringing them to life. I’m toying with the title “Warm Winter Day.” It’s about the maladies of love, and all the questions a boy turning into manhood faces.

What are your favorite places to hang out in your area, to get inspiration?
The outdoor garden at the Bowery Hotel is one of my favorite spots in New York – because it’s quiet – the quality that most turns me on with the Chateau Marmont in LA as well. There’s no music in the lobby – you can hear people talking. Generally, I’m a total loafer dedicating my life to music and loafing. I love relaxing at Café Gitane – where else can you have a coffee outside, and look at a wall and graveyard across the street? I’m part of the gang there – I go there and it’s family – I’m guaranteed to run into a friend. I also love Balthazar around 3pm after the tourist lunch crowd thins out – it’s nice and relaxed then . Have you ever had the Eggs Benedict there? It’s the best in the world. Oh, and want to know a secret for one of the best things to do in New York in the summer? Go to P.J. Clarke’s in Battery Park around 8.30-9pm, again when the tourists leave – then go to the big movie theater at Battery Park after. Another good evening plan is to have dinner at Bar Pitti – but don’t order dessert there. Head to Blue Ribbon Bakery and get the bread pudding. It’s the best dessert in the city.

Any stores you like?
McNally Robinson – the bookstore on Prince St. I love going there and having a tea and reading whatever – again, since it’s quiet. Hey, I think there’s a quiet theme here… now I feel like I’m talking to a therapist!

You do seem to like quiet. Let’s explore that…
In New York, you have to look for refuge from the insanity. My day is about avoiding an “avenue.” The only major street I deal with is Broome – it’s the only one where I have to look both ways before I cross.

When you have to look good for either an outing or an album cover – what are your health and beauty regimens?
Neutrogena SPF 15 moisturizer every morning and every night before bed. When I’m about to shoot a video or album cover, I cut back on alcohol, and NO sugary soda. And I stop eating French fries. That part’s not easy –
I love French fries.

~ Stephen Milioti

Go There: McNally-Robinson Bookstore, 52 Prince St., 212.274.1160 Bar Pitti, 268 Sixth Ave., 212.982.3300 Blue Ribbon Bakery, 35 Downing St., 212.337.0404 P. J. Clarke’s downtown, 4 World Financial Center, 212.285.1500 Balthazar, 80 Spring St., 212.925.1414 Bowery Hotel, 335 Bowery, 212.505.9100
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Restaurant Road-Test: The Pump
Model Marisela Cruz on Eating, Modeling, and Moving

Marisela Cruz has just finished a round of castings for the day when she heads into The Pump Energy Food’s new Madison Avenue location and perches herself onto a plush, red leather seat with a custom-made, weight-training bench bottom, a nod to The Pump’s fitness past. The Pump opened in 1997, during the wave of restaurants that served fast food for work-out fanatics who wanted low-fat, high-protein fuel. “This place looks so different from the one on 21st Street," she observes. "I remember going in there once for a smoothie and noticing all the pictures of bodybuilders on the walls and thinking, this place is too hard core for me!"

The Pump’s new look was inspired by a Soho loft kitchen, and Marisela takes note of the design gazing at a wall of mirrors framed by rescued steel and copper, and pointing out things she’d like to incorporate into the new West Village apartment she has just moved into with her longtime boyfriend. In 2006, the now 27-year-old Adam Eskin, a fanatic himself, saw the company’s potential to grow and shed its hole-in-the-wall image. He gathered investors to buy the chain. The new location is the company’s first attempt to re-brand while keeping the food that gamered them such big initial success.

A Tucson, Arizona native, Marisela is half Mexican, part German, and part Native American. She is a tall, tan beauty with a strong, elegant face and full lips. She heads over to the counter and orders a Pump classic, The Popeye, along with a side of baked falafel, a small carrot juice, and a slice of apple pie made with designer protein. She can't be bothered to eat the meal in sequence. The pie is calling her and she digs in. Maybe it's a guilty feeling, but she starts to explain that summers can be slow for models because the 16-year-olds are out of school. “The young girls that are still in high school come to New York in the summer, so getting editorials becomes really competitive because people would rather use the younger girls. You would think age wouldn’t matter, especially if you still look super young, but somehow it does. I know so many girls who are already lying about their age." Marisela may not have reason to worry- she has been a model for J. Crew the last few seasons and is working towards a degree in Art History at Fordham University.

With her dessert plate clean, she cuts into a hearty entrée of grilled chicken breast with baked tahini sauce served over a gleaming bed of steamed spinach and brown rice. A steady flow of customers head in and do their best not to stare and sheepishly check to see what she’s eating. Her appetite seems to have no end– maybe because the place makes you feel you can order anything off the menu, guilt-free. Or that just by being here, you’re doing good for your health. The rules are this: no butter, salt or fat. Nothing is fried including the falafel. Yet somehow it all tastes good. “I love this food. It’s really comforting and filling, despite being healthy. A lot of healthy food doesn’t really fill me up, and this did the trick!” says Marisela. Finishing up with a fluorescent carrot juice, she smiles at her BlackBerry. Nick is asking when they can meet up and go pick out paint for their apartment. “We’ve been pretend-living- together for the last five months in my old apartment. But this is the real thing and I love it!”

~Sarah Ivory
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Socks & Shoes Road-Test: Price James' Fetishes
The Director's Penchant for Paul Smith & Dandy Style

Less than two years ago, Price James, like many fledgling filmmakers, was making music videos for his pals on a budget less like a shoestring, and more like a feeble thread flapping in the heavy winds of a market saturated by a generation too eager to be on MTV.

What made this jovial gent stand out from his contemporaries was not his striking height, full beard, or bear-like laugh, but his simple yet compelling masterpieces for the likes of Simian Mobile Disco, Friendly Fires, and Operator Please. His humorous and charming use of age-old techniques like stop-frame animation, slow motion, and pop-up quickly earned him the right to have the safe hands of RSA (Ridley Scott Associates) Films backing him. With James directing the first advertisement in six years for England’s most famous cakemakers Mr. Kipling and with two videos for cult-electro clash legend Peaches in the works, Price can only go up.

While a director’s presence in the public is normally a faceless one, James makes sure his own is unmistakable. Carrying a look only a man about London town could, (albeit a Victorian-era London), this dandy with a camera has a penchant for knickerbockers, boldly patterned socks, and patent shoes. psychoPEDIA got Freudian on Price at his East London abode and inquired into where his sock fetish, vigorous use of the pestle and mortar, and ambition to make the next System of a Down video all came from:

What was the experience working with Peaches on her latest video?
She was in London recording her album with James Ford and just phoned me: “I’m here for 3 more days-- can you shot a video for me tomorrow night?” Luckily, she had a pretty clear idea of what she wanted. The video had to somehow result in her doing a really bad jazz dance like a nine-year-old on her roof. Sounds like a real rubbish disco, but as you will eventually see, we achieved what she was after.

Do you prefer off-the-cuff shoots rather than something that takes much more planning?
No, but it is exciting. And it was Peaches, so she can just turn it on. She just does her thing. I tried to direct her, and she said “Nah, I just improvise.”

While Peaches is outrageous, is there anyone even more "out there" you would like to work with?
I really want to make a metal video. Full-on metal, like Slayer–- something brutal, perhaps Slipknot, or System of a Down. Make a real nasty video. I want to make people explode, Scanners-style.

Do you eventually want to get away from what you normally do?
Everyone has their niche, I started doing animation because of budgets more than anything. It’s a sneaky way to make things look magical and impossible. Somewhere down the line, you have to stop doing low-budget stuff. Its fun, but I want to go cinematic. I want to get into film, a feature length. I have an idea for a British Happiness film– something sick, but funny, a bit perverted.

Like your sock fetish?
I started wearing shorts a lot when I hadn’t bought any new trousers for a while and they were all ripping, so I just cut them down. When it was summer, it was fine, cool. But when it got to winter, it was cold. Then I thought “Shit, where’s all my trousers?” I had to start wearing long socks to reach my knees. The look goes back to Victorian times with the Dandies, and even further, with breaches and Henry the VIII, a very British look.

What brand of socks are your favorite?
I exclusively wear Paul Smith socks. They make simple patterns like wallpapers, spots, stripes. I like repeated patterns. The Paul Smith sock rocks.

Is this an obsession that stems from childhood?
When I was a kid, I would wear odd socks all the time. I would never wear full pairs. People thought I was weird. When I was 13 and at school, I’d come in with one black and one grey sock and everyone thought I was really sketchy.

Are your shoes as important to you as the socks?
The shoe and sock are important together. It’s a unison. BStore are my favorite shoes, on Savlle Row. They make the best men’s shoes, without a doubt.

Are there any other strange things you are obsessed with?
My mortar and pestle–- I love it. It's from Pages Kitchen Store, a catering supply store, and made from real granite. I can hardly lift it-– serious business. It’s worth about £100, but I borrowed it from a shoot. I love cooking, so this is my favorite thing. God, I sound really middle-aged.

~Kevin Soar
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Exhibit Road-Test: Jack the Ripper
The She Set Travel Back to 1888

A typical night out in present-day East London for the lager-swilling, girl-harassing city boy will probably start at a bar on Spitalfields Market, proceed to a club in Shoreditch, then end with a kebab on Brick Lane. This journey’s often littered with obstacles, including ‘birds’ to chase and ‘wankers’ to fight amongst the many winding Whitechapel alleyways. Send them back to the same place 120 years ago and these ill-suited fellows wouldn’t stand a chance. The only ‘birds’ close enough to want to sleep with them would be charging, and the only folk left roaming the streets after dark were the crazy or criminals, making it perfect hunting time for the infamous Jack the Ripper.

The Museum of Docklands is situated in the shadows of London’s most grotesque cluster of buildings, Canary Wharf, and is currently hosting a six-month-long exhibition centered on the twisted serial killer Jack the Ripper. While Jack the Ripper is its main attraction, what it offers the visitor is much more rewarding. It perfectly describes, with sympathy, the lives and times of the working class East London dweller, with enlightening glimpses into living in London’s East End circa 1888, which is far removed from the ‘London Dungeon’ tongue-in-cheek take on the Ripper. What’s most chilling about the exhibition is not the killings themselves, but rather, the dire conditions for those who survived during that time of rapid immigrant influx.

The She Set are a seven-member group of aspiring young DJs on the cusp of a London takeover. Having met in the seaside town of Southend, they came together through the love of one thing– records. Despite garnering a reputation as being “girlfriends of The Horrors” (though only 3 of them hold that title), since their collective move to East London, they’ve brought many a dance floor twisting to its knees with a range of records from '50s Rockabilly, 2000’s post-punk, and back again to '60s psyche, all exclusively spun on black vinyl. Their recently launched club night, The Sect, has already won them a reputation as top-notch club promoters and host to worldwide fan clubs from Mexico to Japan, all obsessed with the clothes and lives of the lovely lot.

psychoPEDIA sent 21-year-old She Setter and politics student Hollie Warren, who currently resides in Whitechapel, to the Jack the Ripper exhibition to see how the swinging East End of 2008 compares to 1888:

Did the exhibition reveal much you didn’t already know about Jack the Ripper?
The exhibition did well in describing the culture and environment in which the killings take place, such as the fact that much was made of the parallels between Jack the Ripper and the “Jekyll and Hyde” play. It did well at setting the scene rather than simply describing the details of the murders.

What are your views on the revelations and near-celebration of a serial killer?
I think the possibilities and details of what one human can do to another has always and will continue to fascinate people. It is both disturbing and interesting to consider what may drive someone to kill another, and I think that it is this rather than simply the gory details of the murders that means that newspapers and books containing details of serial killers continue to sell so many copies.

Do you feel the exhibition demonstrates the deprivation of the area at the time?
It possibly highlighted some of the reasons why these murders were able to take place: women having no other option than to sell sex, for example, the extreme poverty and alcoholism being rife. In this way, little has changed in today's societies, with the murder of prostitutes often going unnoticed and little debate on what can be done to prevent women from having to resort to prostitution.

As a vast collection of information, how effective is it overall in telling the story?
The collection was great. It set the scene for the type of place London was in the late 1800s and included pieces from this time. I also liked the way the exhibition used artifacts, videos newspaper extracts, and information boards to gradually allow you to build up a picture of the murders and how the murders were.

Do you see parallels between East London 1888 and 2008?
There are definitely similarities between the perceived problem of immigration, then and now, particularly in the way which immigrants were and often are scapegoats for many problems facing the country, and how this is inflated by the media. It is interesting how the media today fails to notice that Britain has always had an immigration issue and has always adjusted accordingly. It was also interesting to see how East London has always been a place where there have been huge inequalities in wealth living side by side.

Is there anything you would have liked to see that doesn't appear in the exhibit?
I'd like to have known more about the details of the investigation and how it was conducted by the police.

~ Kevin Soar
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Airline Road-Test: Best & Worst of the Skies
Photographer Brian Finke Dishes on His Latest Project

Flight attendants have been an iconic cultural image since the 1960s, with the stylish crews of TWA and Pan Am. From their chic, tight-fitting uniforms to jet-setting around the world, the lifestyle is one often associated with glamour and mystique.

New York-based photographer Brian Finke, in his new book Flight Attendants, vibrantly documents this present-day niche community, in a series of portraits that display both the charming and realistic sides of the industry. Having traveled around the world for two years, concentrating on 15 airlines in particular, with some (including Delta, Hawaiian, Qantas, British Airways, Thai, Tiger, and Icelandair), Finke captures an inside look at the men and women of professional air travel both on the ground and in the sky.

With his work currently on exhibit in LA’s Stephen Cohen Gallery (June 12-Aug 2), as well as an upcoming exhibit at Paris’ Gallerie Philippe Chaume (Sept 11-Oct 3), to complement the book's release by powerHouse, Finke joined psychoPEDIA to discuss his experience making the book, and the highs and lows of airlines:

How did you develop the concept for the book?
With my work in general, I photograph a lot of different subcultures and like working on projects that describe specific ones. My previous project was about cheerleaders and football players, and while I worked on it, I thought a lot about the costumes and style around it. I was traveling a lot on planes anyway, and it was right in front of me, so it seemed like a natural progression. Also, after September 11, I was drawn to the challenge of getting in there and photographing it. It wasn’t something I had really seen pictures of before.

Has the perception of flight attendants from the early days to now has changed?
I started photographing domestic airlines, and discovered traveling isn’t what it used to be. Pretty quickly I realized that I also wanted to go overseas to photograph airlines in Europe and Asia. When I was in Hong Kong, they were saying there’s still an allure of it being an exotic lifestyle. I think that still exists, but with my personal experience traveling around the States, it’s not what it used to be. Even last week I was going to DC and New Orleans, flights are always delayed two hours and crowded.

Was your own impression of their lifestyle altered after the project?
With my pictures, it was important showing the reality of current travel. Some of the pictures have a sense of humor and are whimsical, and some are more romantic and nostalgic. I realized a lot of flight attendants make it fit their own lifestyle. One of the attendants I photographed in Iceland has a family and kids, and she just goes to work like anybody else—flies to Europe then flies back home. I realized they make it fit whatever lifestyle or point of life they’re in.

As for style, which airlines have the best uniforms?
There’s a website called Uniform Freak, that has hundreds of uniforms on showcase. Several airlines in Asia are my favorite. AirAsia is a carrier in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, that has really great uniforms. I worked through airlines’ PR departments and would propose story ideas to editors, and a lot of them dealt with fashion and travel. Airlines in the past several years have started inviting high-end designers to design their uniforms.

Which airlines have the most attractive or glamorous stewardesses?
Icelandair is definitely a favorite. They have the scarves and hats— which are on the cover of the book. AirAsia is another favorite. It’s very Virgin Atlantic– great with style. And Air France is great, also.

Most unattractive?
Hooters Air, which doesn’t exist anymore. It was around for a few years, but folded a little over a year ago. They would have flight attendants, where two would be traditional ones in uniforms and two would be dressed as Hooters girls like in the restaurants, in nylons, short pants, T-shirts. They were there more for entertainment.

Best service or most helpful?
In a broad case, a lot of the Asian airlines are very good with passengers. Cathay Pacific is great. I photographed them during their 60th anniversary where they brought back the retro uniforms for a few months.

Oppositely, is there an airline with especially gruff flight attendants?
Not a big fan of Continental, even though I didn’t photograph them. They don’t seem very helpful these days.

Which has the nicest amenities?
Foreign airlines in general, and Cathay Pacific for sure.

What about the best food?
I recently flew Virgin American, and I like how you can go on and purchase food whenever you want. They have a touch-active screen where you can watch movies, but also purchase food whenever you want during the flight, which is nice.

Since you flew constantly during the project, do you have special tricks to avoid air sickness?
I fly a lot-- it’s just a normal thing. I drink a lot of water and take vitamin C to deal with jet lag and breathing airplane air all day.

Have you witnessed any emergencies while flying?
Once I was flying back from Florida and a plane had to make an emergency landing because a passenger had a heart problem. It’s good to know when something comes up that they can react so quickly.

What is your overall favorite airline after the entire experience?
I like Air France a lot, who I use a lot to fly back and forth to Paris. The food, drinking the wine, and visually the uniforms and plane are nice. And when I flew to Iceland, they put us up in First Class and really took care of us more so than normal.

What projects do you have planned for the future?
After photographing mostly female flight attendants for a few years, my wife had the idea to photograph construction workers. Time to hang out with the boys for a while! So I started on that this summer. I’m starting it here in New York, then hopefully take it to other major cities around the world.

~Leann Peterson


All photos by Brian Finke
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Road-Test: Berwick Street Record Shops
Writer Stewart Home on His Past & Present Favorites

Stewart Home is a writer for good reason. He has a brilliant memory, having recalled succinct details of life since he was two years old. On occasion, this can be more of an annoyance than a blessing. But he has put it to good use, linking inane facts and insane lives in his varied published works.

Although he’s too strange for the likes of Penguin, over the last three decades, Home has grounded himself as a scion of subculture. His writing ranges from satirical to the non-narrative, from pamphleteering to critique. He touches on everything from the early users of LSD (Tainted Love) to pornography (69 Things to Do with a Dead Princess); from boot stomping skinheads (Slow Death) to underground art movements (The Assault on Culture). If it sounds fun, Home has usually dabbled in it.

psychoPEDIA asked the writer and avid music-lover, born and bred in London, to guide us through the fast-changing nooks and crannies of his old stomping ground and source of inspiration-– Berwick Street’s record shops. Hoping to stumble across some gems before urban re-development to the area creeps up (whereby many of Berwick’s streets finest record shops have already disappeared), Home gives us some insight to his favorite spots:

What are your earliest memories of Berwick Street?
The first thing I remember of the area was Carnaby Street’s colored paving stones. They took them out in the 1980s, because they were looking a bit crappy. But they really should have refurbished them instead.

Why does that area appeal to you more than others?
Carnaby Street and Berwick Street are great, because you could pick up all the new bootleg records down the market. Then, just behind them, in St. Anne’s Court is a science-fiction shop, The Golden Eye. I started going to all these places in ’74. I remember discovering Aleister Crowley in there, who I thought was hilarious. Not because I was into magic, but because his books had chapter titles like “A Harrowing Heroine” which, when you are 12, is very funny. But Berwick St was the place.

Which record shop did you frequent most?
So many have come and gone–- but Selectadisc, which is now Sister Ray, was the best. You want change, because that is what a vibrant urban environment is all about. Sometimes things change for the better, and sometimes things change for the worst. Obviously, the property values in London are ridiculous. That’s one thing. But the other is that book and record shops are on the way out.

Any particular reason why you think that’s happening?
You can sit at your computer and pick what you want now, which is fine. But the down side is the loss of the social element. You don’t get recommendations, people don’t play you stuff. When I was a teenager, I’d go down Soho Market where they had the Rocks Off record store. It was great just to hear the records, talking to market traders, listening to new Siouxsie Sioux releases. When I was 12 or 13, I discovered You Can’t Sit Down by The Dovells and thinking that was the most amazing record I had ever heard.

Do you go anywhere nowadays to find new albums or discover bands?
No. But then I know what I want a lot more. I realized as I grew up that my taste veered towards Mod and Northern Soul. Now it has moved into a little bit of techno and the old psychedelic '60s stuff. Like The Vibrations or The Temptations when they stopped being so pop.

Do you have different stores catering to different needs then?
I have Soul Jazz doing their little post-punk thing. Sister Ray is great other than their obsession with shitty industrial bands which they should fucking dump. Record & Tape Exchange has hoards of random second hand stuff. There was Mr CD, which recently closed down, sacrificed to MP3s. I don’t say that in a bad way. I want my music in the cheapest possible format. I understand people being precious about their vinyl. On some dub tracks, you just don’t get the bass tone out of an MP3 or CD, or if you copy very minimal techno, like Plasticman, it sounds really shitty, because you are losing vital frequencies. But with most stuff, you can never tell the difference. With old Motown and punk songs, they are supposed to sound shitty and tinny. Mind you, on The Slits' track Vindictive, the tom sounded so rubbish on CD but fine on the vinyl.

Do you feel like Berwick Street is losing its record and bookstores to gear more towards Red Light District-friendly establishments?
I’ve got no idea where the sign saying ‘Model First Floor’ leads to, but all the girls on the street are quite obviously clippers. They are just gonna take your money and run. It used to be a hobby of mine, sitting outside a café and watching guys get strung along. I used to go to the venue The Marquee, which was round the corner. I would bunk off school to go to shows and beforehand, think it hilarious to sit outside a café with a cup of tea, and watch some businessman who had just been up to shag a prostitute having a cup of tea before he went home to confront the wife. He wouldn’t be able to hold the mug still.

~Iphgenia Baal
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Venue Road-Test: Café Oto
Thee Oh Sees Like Cakes & Good People

Having evolved from the ashes of lo-fi distorted garage noise acts like Coachwhips, The Hospitals, and the most seminal of Providence label, Load Records has ever released: the mighty Burmese, it came then as a surprise when John Dwyer emerged as the frontman of Thee Oh Sees, with the gentler folk sound.

Maybe it was the move to San Francisco from Providence, but this was an altogether quieter Dwyer. However, like a kid pretending to be grown up for a week and failing OCS (Orange County Sound) swiftly mutated into Thee Oh Sees, and started getting loose all over again. Their album The Master's Bedroom Is Worth Spending A Night In should be sitting tall on end-of-year lists everywhere, combining elements of all Dwyer’s past into an impulsive and petulantly coherent whole.

Beyond Shoreditch, venues that consistently put on shows of any quality in deeper East London are few and far between. If you aren’t watching a band in Dalston's Bardens Boudoir, it’s likely you won’t be watching a band at all. With this in mind, it East London residents welcomed the opening of council-funded venue Café Oto that popped up out of nowhere just two weeks ago behind Dalston-Kingsland station. With a string of great gigs in the near future thanks to the ever reliable Upset The Rhythm Thee Oh Sees-– Dwyer, Petey Dammit, Mike Shoun, and Brigid Dawson-- talked to psychoPEDIA about venues, lake of cake, and organic beer:

How does Dalston compare to San Francisco?
JD: Right now Dalston is nice. We are just sitting out here on the curb in the sun drinking coffee.
PD: In fact, this is probably exactly what we would be doing if we were in San Francisco right now.
MS: You would probably actually be asleep.
PD: Jet lag is a bitch. All those timezones. My head can’t keep up.

How were the venues as opposed to on the mainland?
JD: On this particular tour, they have all been fairly standard. But with other bands I’ve played with, I’ve played everywhere: you name it. Squats where the punks want your blood, pool tables, beer halls, caves. Wherever we could get power. It sounds awful but they all kind of merge into one.
PD: We had a great show in our practice space in San Francisco recently, though. Does that count as a venue?

What made it so great?
MS: It was Brigid’s birthday. We were practicing and we had everything planned so that mid-practice, all her friends burst in and surprised her.
BD: I was pretty scared, but in a good way.

Did you know that "oto" means "sound" in Japanese?
JD: No, but I do now.
PD: I see what they did there.

How are you finding the full range of organic beers and ciders?
PD: I like the label with the Bayeaux Tapestry painting, but it costs five pounds. I’m sticking to coffee.
JD: The coffee is excellent. It reminds me of the coffee in this little SF joint where we used to go and bum out and drink cup after cup and smoking a whole bunch of cigarettes or whatever.

Does it bother you that you can't smoke indoors in the UK anymore?
JD: They are weird about it in the US. Some venues just turn a blind eye. I can imagine it must suck bumming smokes in the winter here.

What do you think of this Bretton beer-- so organic that it has loads of sediment?
PD: I’m not into that. It looks like mud in beer. They serve Kronenberg and Beck too. We are gonna get a bunch of that in later.
JD: The coffee is great though, I want to stress that. And you can always drink coffee. Beer is sometimes just not feasible. But, coffee? Always.

How about the space itself?
JD: I really like it. It is super simple. Just a nice square white box. Everything has slight sense of DIY to it. Like the guy DJing has his turntables on top of a vintage sled. Sled? Sleigh? I’m not sure the proper term, but one of those rickety old wooden things.
PD: They also haven’t started doing food yet. Can we come back and play again when they are doing cakes? They say the cakes are coming. But when?
JD: Good cakes and good people. That is all you need. The people here seem great–- the promoters, the kids, the local guys. People told me this place was rough, but it’s been great. We just need those cakes now.

~James Knight
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Resort Road-Test: Royal Plantation
Nadia Koch on Jamaica's Premier Luxe Escape

Relaxation is synonymous with Jamaica. So, it’s no wonder Nadia Koch, proprietor of the bar Home Sweet Home, one of NYC's downtown after-hours staples, jumped at the invitation to experience their luxury resort, Royal Plantation, in Ocho Rios.

Since Home Sweet Home’s advent into New York City nightlife in 2006, Koch and her partner Kristen Vincent have been juggling art gallery gatherings, after parties for bands, and weekly events that bring in a multitude of neighborhood regulars and city notables alike from Chloe Sevigny to Moby.

Miles away, the serenely set Royal Plantation, built in the 1950s, caters to those who crave an intimate experience coupled with white-glove care. With only 74 suites, it offers private enclaves of comfort. Guests can lie on the beach with a cocktail, take a dip in the pool, or frankly, just do nothing.

psychoPEDIA caught up with Koch upon her return to New York City. Here’s what she had to say about her slice of paradise:

What was your first thought when heading out to Royal Plantation?
“Thank goodness! I wish my trip was longer." The idea of taking such a quick trip from New York City–- only three hours away, and you're in a completely different environment–- is fantastic! You didn’t have to make the time commitment to check out and venture far, far away.

How was it upon first arrival?
It was really impressive, because it looked so different than any other resorts we were passing. It’s very Old World in decoration. And it's much smaller and intimate. You don’t feel like there are people everywhere. It’s like your own private hotel. As soon as we stepped foot inside, we were offered a cocktail while signing paperwork. Six people were there immediately to take care of us, and it wasn’t this formal check-in.

What was the experience waking up the first morning at the resort?
I had a cup of coffee and sat out on my balcony and saw the most beautiful beaches and views. They really take care of the special details in the rooms. Our little bar area had everything you could possibly need to make yourself a proper cup of coffee and not have to get room service.

How would you rate the room service?
Our butler comes into the room with white gloves and sets up an eating area wherever you’d like to sit in your room–- either in the dining area, on the balcony-– seats you, places your napkin in your lap, and then leaves. Very formal, but very gracious. They even had a pillow menu! There’s a selection of different pillows to choose from. It was amazing.

What about when you're sitting by the pool or beach?
You have that feeling where you don’t feel awkward sitting on the beach while raising your little flag for either another cocktail or an extra towel. They’re there not to serve you, but simply to make you happy.

Is it exhausting to run your own bar?
It’s an everyday, 24-hour job. There are so many things to do, but there’s a lot of flexibility in it. Lately, we’ve been getting a better handle on the bar, so we’re able to start thinking in new directions on how we better this or something else. We also have a great staff. Things have come together really nicely over the past two years. It’s finding its own space and voice in New York City nightlife.

Having experience with bars yourself, how did the cocktails measure up?
I really liked one specialty called a "mangosa," which is Mango puree and champagne. It was their version of a mimosa, and they had a couple of other specialty cocktails. Their pina coladas were the best ever-- all the time, whenever you wanted, because it’s inclusive.

Did you try any of their spa treatments?
Yes, I had two treatments at Red Lane: the first was an exfoliation and entire body wrap. I typically don’t believe in those treatments working, but it was amazing and my skin was so soft. My manicure and pedicure was great too, but I wish there was a little music playing in the background.

What was your most memorable experience?
Our formal night where we shared the evening with the general manager, Peter Fraser. We started off in their private Cigar Room. He personally prepared steak tartar for us. Caviar, martinis, canapés, the Veuve was flowing. My drink was never empty. You felt like a lady. They also did the sabering with the champagne bottle, where you find the seam on the bottle and then cut off the top. Then it was followed with a lovely dinner where our wines were specially paired with our meals.

Why would you recommend Royal Plantation?
You get a feeling as to what Jamaica is all about, yet your focus to go there is to relax and not think about anything. You’re not there to run into town and dance it up at the dance hall! You’re there to relax and recharge your batteries.

Now that you’re back to the grind, what do you miss most about Jamaica?
That view from my balcony and taking a nap there after being on the beach all day with a lovely cocktail by my side.

~Jessica McMenamin
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Restaurant Road-Test: De Taart van m’n Tante
Designer Bas Kosters on Brothels, Fashion, and Cake

In an attempt to clean up Amsterdam’s infamous Red Light District, their city council has purchased a number of area brothels as part of its Red Light Fashion project. Former prostitutes’ windows have been converted to showcase couture collections from the best Dutch designers-– one such being Bas Kosters.

Known for his explosive use of color, hand-drawn prints, and recycled materials, the multi-disciplinary artist also works as a painter, illustrator, and DJ. With such a colorful and dynamic palate, Kosters made a perfect subject to test the equally flamboyant and charming dessert specialist De Taart van m’n Tante.

Dutch for ‘My Aunt’s Cake’, this sweet shop serves homemade cakes, in the shape of cartoon heroes, Barbie, animals, and many more designs that magically transport one back to more innocent times. It's a favorite hangout for Amsterdammers enjoying a romantic date, girs' get-together, kiddie party, or a quick game of camped-up bingo.

Surrounded by fake flamingos, bright velvet cushions, and lots of big fluffy cakes, psychoPEDIA joined Bas for tea-time topics from fighting crime to working in a brothel.

What’s it going to be?
I just had a quick look at the cabinet, but there’s not a lot left. I guess it’s quite late in the afternoon, but I noticed they have some carrot cake, and some apple with amaretto, and a mango Bavarois. They all sound appealing to me, but I’m going for the hot chocolate with cream and the carrot cake.

How did you get involved in the Red Light Fashion project?
A few other young labels and I are involved in another project called Turning Talent Into Business, which helps young designers build their businesses, and we were basically all approached. It was quite easy for me to get involved.

The project was set up to clean up the area, partially in a fight against crime. How do you think you’ll influence that?
They didn’t think fashion would actually change the crime here, but they just wanted to do something different with the area and use the buildings for different purposes. In an indirect way, we want to fight crime, but more than that, we wanted to give the area a cultural factor. It’s also a great media pull, attracting a lot of new people to the area. The media is going totally mad for it. The red light district has always been an interesting talking point, but since the project launched, I’ve had so much more attention from the media.

How are the residents responding to the project?
Everyone feels very different about it. Some of the residents are happy with it, some think the area should stay the way it was.

The waiter arrives with the cakes.

Hmm nice. [Bas, squeals like an excited child at the arrival of his cake] But as I said, everyone has a different opinion about the project. As a designer who is involved, I would say that I think it has a positive impact on Amsterdam as a city. It’s good for people to see that the area is not just about trashiness, but it’s areas like these that are actually the places where creativity is born.

I read that the rooms are kept intact and that they didn’t actually convert the spaces. Is it weird that you’re now working next to those beds?
Yeah, there are red lights, black lights, and these big built-in beds. Very bizarre. The building itself is also very funny. It’s really like a labyrinth, with all its corridors and crazy little rooms. It seems to lead its own life.

Does this different and crazy environment inspire you in a different kind of way?
I’m actually doing a series of paintings with very explicit sexual images. It’s quite funny, because we had to sign a contract about not showcasing work in the windows that is linked to alcohol, degradation, and addiction. It’s quite a contrast, because of course you feel different when you work in that space, but we’re not really allowed to do anything with that feeling. I am actually not trying to think too much about what happened in there, you know…

Are you enjoying the carrot cake?
It’s lovely! Hahaha. [asking his assistant] Would you like to try? It’s such a nice little piece of cake!

I’m guessing you’ve been here before?
I come here every once in a while. I’ve actually had this carrot cake before. I like it here. The café has this has a really cozy vibe. But how nice would it be if it were open at night? It’d be so nice to come down here at night, with some friends, have a bit of cake...

What’s happening after this year–- will Bas Kosters go worldwide?
I don’t know. But I am going on a holiday to Jamaica soon, for Jamaica Style Week. It’s going to be busy. We have so much planned, which I am happy about. I’m not too psyched, though. I heard 36 gay men were killed there last year. Apparently they’re not into white gay men over there. So, I’m going to leave my Dior sunglasses and gold rings at home. I’m so used to being explicit and communicating with my outfits, but I don’t want to communicate the wrong things over there, so I have to dress a bit more quietly. Here in Amsterdam I am creating freedom by being different, but over there, I will be creating freedom by not being different.

- Frederieke Janssen
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Hair Road-Test: Tetine's Favorite Styles
Singer Eli Mejorado Reveals the Good, the Bad, and the Hairy

Brazilian-born Eli Mejorado and Bruno Verner make up Tetine-– a bass-heavy duo who list their influences as tropical punk, funk carioca, Miami bass, punk-funk, and hysterical vocals. Their music sounds like 2 Live Crew being car-jacked by CSS. And if a song makes me want to dance when I’m neither drunk nor high, then that’s a pretty good indication that the band rocks, and all of Tetine’s songs make me want to do the ‘Electric Boogaloo.' But to be honest, I’m only really concerned with the female vocalist, Eli. She wears sparkly gold bikinis and always looks like she just rolled out of bed.

psychoPEDIA met with Eli to have a lengthy conversation about her love for all things hair:

Why are you so obsessed with hair?
I’ve always loved hair since I was a child. Then I got into wigs, moustaches, and beards when I was about fifteen.

What style do you have your hair in at the moment?
It’s just wild, I don’t have any specific cut. I call it “wolf hair.”

Is there a specific place you like to get your hair done?
My friend Silvio cuts my hair. He comes to my place and charges £30. He's sensitive and understands that my hair looks good when it looks like I haven't had it cut.

How often do you change your hair?
I used to change it a lot before. I’ve had my hair colored blonde, red, orange, black, blue, and green: and I’ve had it short, curly, and straight. Nowadays, I like it its natural color and long. If I want a change, I go for a wig. To be honest, I'm tempted to go for a more light brown color at the moment.

What's your favorite hairstyle?
My all-time favorite is the long, curly, and blonde. But I also have a thing for actresses from Alfred Hitchcock movies with perfect hairdos.

What do you think is the worst style ever?
It depends. I wouldn't go for red and short myself, but my friend looks just perfect with it.

Can you remember the worst haircut you ever had?
I once had straight blonde hair that was very long at the back and short at the front. My nose was just too big for that style. I looked awful.

Which celeb has hair that you think is cool?
Amy Winehouse has such a nice hairdo! She looks sexy without having to make any effort. But, my all time favorite hairstyle was on Tippi Hedren when she acted in The Birds. Even when she's attacked and covered in blood, her hair still looks perfect to me.

Is a good hairstyle ever an adequate substitute for not having a personality?
No. I think the hair translates the personality.

Do you like people to grab your hair when you’re having sex?
I definitely do! Grabbing is good, but I hate when they pull it. I can get very angry.

How do you feel about men who shave off all their pubic hair?
I pity them. I like men like Chili Gonzales.

Do you have a take on facial hair? Don’t you hate it when guys rub their grizzly faces against yours?
I don't like it when the beard is growing. It hurts! I like it when it’s a fully-grown beard.

Anything we should look out for with Tetine this year?
Our new album is coming out on Soul Jazz in mid-April. It's going to be hairy!

~Donald Crunk @ Styleslut




For tips on how to get Eli's favorite looks:
For Eli's just-rolled-out-of-bed look, try Bed Head's Hook up wax or Jonathan's texturizing paste to make clean hair look like yesterday's messy masterpiece.
For a strong enough spray to keep your Winehouse-inspired beehive going for days, try L'anza Volume Formula Final Effects  finishing spray.
To really change your 'do, visit Lulu's and Wigs.com.
To change up your hue, Manic Panic or Amphigory Dye.
And, if you're still not feeling hairy enough, grab a moustache at Costume Inc.


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Website Road-Test: Graffiti Island's Internet Favorites
Pete Dee Reveals His Bizarre Browsing Habits

Graffiti Island seems to have walked straight out of the bar in Twin Peaks' One Eyed Jacks into an episode of Kojack: The Night Stalker via the set of a Jodorowsky film. Hailing from the Dalson area of London, their simplistic, lo-fi approach has garnered comparisons to early K Records acts like Beat Happening. But between Conan Roberts' string work on bass and guitar, drummer Cherise Payne’s propulsive rhythmic counterpoints, and lead singer Pete Dee’s deadpan, pop-culture-soaked delivery, they offer something wholly original. In a few short months and without a release yet, the band has already shared stages with acts as diverse and established as Les Savy Fav, Effi Briest, Be your Own Pet and Rings.

psychoPEDIA caught up with Dee to talk about the Internet obsession that colors the band’s sonic and lyrical palettes, creating twisted and compelling tales of werewolves, haunted picnics, and mountain men gone nuts:

Tell me a bit about your blog, Voodoo Village.
My friend Jiro and I were in his bedroom relaxing and listening to "Love Theme" by Vangelis when we got the idea to make a blog. We share similar interests and get annoyed by how much crap is out there, so we decided to make a blog full of our favorite stuff like Italo disco, outsider art, Ancient Egypt, Down syndrome, GG Allin, aliens, heavy metal, and any kind of freaks.

Where did the name come from?
We got the name Voodoo Village from a compound in Memphis, Tennessee, which goes by the same name. The people who live there are a mixed-race of African Americans and Native American descent. They are led by a 100-year-old man called Chief Wash Harris.

What kind of stuff are you looking for when you sit around browsing the Internet everyday, or are you just flailing around in the dark?
This week I’ve been looking for old pictures of sideshow freaks. I found a good one of a pony woman whose leg joints bend the opposite way. I’ve been watching a lot of New Jack Swing videos too. My favourite is "My Heart" by TROOP. The dancing in that video is intense.

How long do you spend in front of the computer screen every day?
I sit until I can't feel my legs.

Are you sure this isn't all an elaborate front for solo cranking sessions?
I do some of that too. Shh.

You are also into the occult and UFOs. How did this obsession arise?
I like watching interviews with airline pilots and astronauts who've seen UFOs. I trust those dudes, they seem like good guys. I'm into UFOs of all shapes and sizes but probably the ones I’m most interested in are the black triangles, because I saw one when I was 15. My favorite alien theory is the one where people believe that lizards live under LA. Some guy back in the 1930's even mapped out where all the tunnels are that lead to the underground lizard cities. I wanna go check them out.

That seems to border on a conspiracy theory. Are you into those too?
I'm into the hollow earth theory. That is the belief that the earth is hollow and full of weird lands and ancient creatures. Supposedly you can get inside the earth through a big hole somewhere in the North Pole. Some people think this is where a lot of the Nazis escaped to.

Without giving away the secrets to your online gold, what websites do you recommend?
jah jah spinXXX is great for images. There’s no text, just hundreds of images of weird stuff. The Mutual UFO Network is best UFO website out there, and you can look at a UFO weather map that shows you what cities in what countries the UFOs have been visiting over the last few weeks. Unexplained Mysteries is a goldmine. On Ghana Movie Posters, you can buy some of the most amazing hand-painted movie posters by some of the most talented painters now living, for only $100! The How's Your News? team have made one of the best documentaries ever. And the site for McRorie – the best one-man band on earth.

How does all of this online intake and assimilation influence Graffiti Island?
The Internet has an infinite amount of information on weird places and weirdos. That is the kind of information I need to write the songs I need to write, that’s all.

Do you think without all this stuff knocking around your head, you would be the same band?
I don't think so. We'd probably all be wearing straw hats, pointy shoes, low cut V-neck T-shirts and singing songs that go “oh eh oh oh oh eh oh oh eh oh eh oh.”

~James Knight

Graffiti Island’s debut 7” is forthcoming on House Anxiety Records.
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Restaurant Road-Test: Gemma
Actress Joy Bryant on Yoga and Real Italian Food

Joy Bryant is hungry. It's noon on a recent spring afternoon and the actress parks her fold-up bicycle in the entrance to the restaurant Gemma while we wait for our table. Gemma is the rustic Italian restaurant in The Bowery Hotel, a few blocks down from the Lafayette House where Bryant is staying while in town to be a judge at the Tribeca Film Festival. The actress started her morning with a Kundalini yoga class at Golden Bridge Yoga: "I woke up and went straight to yoga. I haven't eaten anything yet.” A tall glass of freshly-squeezed juice (half orange, half grapefruit) is rushed to our table with a pot of coffee. Joy continues, "We held one posture for 11 minutes today. That's the longest I've ever done. The posture wasn't that hard, but mentally it was. Your mind wants you to stop. So I got to push myself, which is great."

She explains that Kundalini yoga uses the breath of fire while holding various poses to strengthen and detoxify the mind and body. “In your life, the breath is the most important thing. The inhale and exhale,” she says, diving into a basket of warm coal-oven-baked bread that she dips into a plate of olive oil. The waiter comes over to read us the specials: “Grilled scallops with corn and red peppers. . .” he says. "That's what I'll have," Joy replies instantly.

Bryant was first introduced to Golden Bridge Yoga in LA, where the native New Yorker has lived for the last five years. "I had just broken up with this guy I was seeing and was bummed out. Around the same time, I got a role and had a couple of months to get my head together. I found Golden Bridge online and went once then a few times a week and from January to March, I was going every day." A milky white appetizer of burotta arrives and Bryant elegantly–- especially for a famished woman who's just been holding yoga postures on an empty stomach–- slices herself a bite. "Delicious. Tastes exactly how it's supposed to taste. Melts in your mouth. I hate it when you go to a place and order burotta and it's mozzarella."

The part Joy used Kundalini to prepare herself for was her first comedic role, opposite Martin Lawrence in Welcome Home Roscoe Jenkins. "To do this movie where I'm working with all these amazing comedians was something no one was expecting [from me], so I had a lot of pressure. But because I had been working on myself doing Kundalini everyday, I felt stable and grounded-- centered." The day’s scallop special arrives-- three round juicy grilled scallops on a bed of chopped grilled corn and red pepper. There are a few minutes of silence while she eats, until the waiter comes over and asks how everything is. "Terrible," she says, then flashes an ear-to-ear, killer smile. "This should really be on the permanent menu. So yummy."

Bryant plans on making Golden Bridge Yoga class part of her daily routine while in town, just as she plans on making Lafayette House her home away from home. "It takes the boutique hotel to the next level," she says. With a squeaky stairwell, antique-filled rooms, and slightly chipped ceilings, the 15-room brownstone building is more New Orleans than New York. It is the secret inn from Maritime and Bowery Hotel owners Sean Macpherson and Eric Goode. There is no concierge and room service stops after lunch. "But this is New York. Everyone delivers. I love how it's quiet and home. The rooms have fireplaces and the staff is really sweet. It feels like you’re in someone's cozy townhouse apartment."

Finally panna cotta with berries is served. “I have to come back for this meal tomorrow,” says the actress, who has a binder of materials from the festival to review and is deciding whether to take her bike and find a patch of grass in Battery Park or go back to her room’s "super-comfortable bed.”

“I see you hated it," the waiter says, taking away the spotless empty plate. The actress replies deadpan, "Awful. Just absolutely awful," with a twinkle in her eyes.

~Sara Costello


Second photo by fragvine via Flickr
Third photo by Gregory Goode
Fifth photo, still shot from Welcome Home Roscoe Jenkins
All other photos by Sara Costello
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Restaurant Road-Test: Counter
Graffiti Artist Edina Tokodi on the “Green” Eatery

Mixing necessity with trendiness, going “green” is now a certified cultural phenomenon. However, few take it as literally as the Hungarian-born “green graffiti” artist Edina Tokodi, whose work has been sprucing up the streets of New York City in the form of animal-shaped moss installations. Tokodi’s eco-art art brings to light the urban dweller’s lack of access to natural greenery, enlivening an otherwise concrete jungle. By placing her renegade installations from Williamsburg to Coney Island in a continually-expanding project, Tokodi has not only caught the eye of New York’s pedestrians, but now, the attention of Philadelphia’s transportation system, SEPTA, who recently commissioned her to produce their campaign to promote the environmental benefits of using of mass transit.

A vegetarian with a taste for the greener side, Tokodi made a fitting subject to sample the East Village’s hip and healthy hot spot, Counter— which recently became a "Certified Green Restaurant" by implementing several sustainable practices, to be built upon each year. This environmentally conscious and popular vegetarian bistro, opened by natural-food aficionado Deborah Gavito in 2003, serves seasonally-fresh cuisine and an impressive selection of organic martinis and biodynamic wines— some even featured in their “Rebel of the Month” spotlights on organic winemakers. From one green rebel to another, psychoPEDIA joined Tokodi at Counter on a bustling night to chat over the eatery’s organic offerings:

As we are seated, the manager Frank Cisneros greets us and talks a bit about the steps the restaurant has taken to become “Certified Green.”

What are some of the restaurant’s current sustainable practices?
FC: We’d had energy-efficient lighting and a temperature-control system with micro thermometers, so there’s not an ounce of energy wasted. Last year, we worked with a company to re-use our fryer oil and installed low-pump spray valves in our kitchen cleaning systems that use a tenth of the water normally used to wash dishes. Along with recently purchased motion sensors for the service areas to control the lights, one of the steps we’re doing this year is installing aerators in all our faucets, that adds air to water so you use less of it.

Any future practices you hope to adapt?
FC: We're looking for a good producer of to-go containers made of bagasse— a fibrous, sugarcane material you can process as a plastic that’s biodegradable in 90 days. We’re also in talks to get energy-efficient hand dryers, and a long-term project is LED lights for our awning that are powered by solar panels.

What do you think of the “green” and “organic” movements?
ET: It’s kind of a shame. People go green or environmentally friendly, but somewhere on the side, it’s very sad. It should be normal.

How did you get involved in the SEPTA project?
An advertisement agency, Red Tettemer, searched for me, because they had seen one of my other projects. They came up with the idea for the moss campaign and did all the backgrounds and posters. Then my collaborator and I did the whole moss installation. It took about a month to put the materials together at home and one week to install them, which was a hard job.

What was the process to install the moss pieces?
We spent five days at the station in Philadelphia. The interesting thing is, the agency put the posters up before we installed the moss. At first, everyone went by and didn’t take a look at all. But after we installed the moss, people actually stopped and got more interested in the campaign than they were before.

The waiter brings us bread with tofu-garlic dipping sauce as we ponder over the extensive wine list before deciding on glasses of biodynamic Beaujolais.

Despite endless wine choices, what do you think of the minimal food menu?
I always have a really hard time choosing. I’m happy when there aren’t too many choices. And here, everything sounds very good.

For starters, we order on the Mezze— a selection of 3 appetizers— the roast beet salad with chevre, spinach and feta cheese cigars, and panisse with aioli (chickpea fries). For an entrée, Tokodi chooses the Vegetable Tasting Mosaic— which includes a market-fresh array including Portobello mushroom roulade, sautéed haricots verts & escararole, and whipped maple sweet potatoes.

Reactions to the appetizer spread?
My favorites were the spinach cigars and the beets. Usually, I don’t like onions or scallions, but I thought this was really good.

Tell me more about the concept behind your street “graffiti.”
I made a trip to Japan a couple of years ago and was inspired by the zen gardens— they give you so much energy. I still think about the garden in the house where I grew up. It was nothing special when I was there, but here in New York, it’s unaffordable. The idea for these installations is that people are so far from this kind of life.

How do you want people to connect with the installations?
The main idea is that these installations are interactions. When people see them on the street, I want them to get close— touch them and feel them. Maybe they’ve never touched any moss before.

Entrees arrive, and Tokodi navigates her way around the plate, tasting each vegetable one by one.

What do you think about the assorted vegetable dish?
It’s very good. I like the type of food that has it’s own taste. That’s why I love real Italian food— zucchini tastes like zucchini. [With this dish], I love the sweet potato. But, I like everything.

After polishing our plates, we review the dessert menu. Following the waiter’s recommendations, we choose: a crème brulee— vanilla custard with candied orange peel & drizzled with kiwi-berry sauce, and chocolate fondue— valhrona & callebaut chocolate served with fresh fruit and coffee-walnut cake.

Despite the pricier nature of organic menus, would you still choose to eat somewhere like Counter over the McDonald's across the street?
I’d rather not eat at all if I don’t find something that’s good. I like to eat, and I like to eat things that are good quality.

Does it make you feel better eating here, knowing the sustainable practices the restaurant has installed?
If you’re running a restaurant, you should be responsible for these kinds of things. If you run it in a crazy way, you create a lot of waste. With this restaurant— these are simple things. But now, we’ve gotten to the point where it’s getting very serious, and everything counts.

~Leann Peterson


For more information on the steps and benefits to becoming a "Certified Green Restaurant," check out the website for the Green Restaurant Association.
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Road-Test: Tapedeck’s Favorite Comics
London DJs on Action-Hero Pussies & Superhero Sex

At one point, the London party scene was a depressingly divided place. The punks would be in one club listening to The Cramps and The Strokes , while hip-hop kids would be in another club listening to Biggie Smalls and Dipset. “So, what happens if you like the Strokes and Biggie?” you ask. Well, to put it bluntly, you were fucked. You’d have to pay to go to two different clubs, and that sucked, because if you were just about to get lucky with a hot chick/dude, you’d have to cut your conversation short and risk going home alone.

Luckily, a whole swarm of ‘new-school’ DJs were determined to fuck with the rules and play whatever they wanted. Alax and Seb from Tapedeck were amongst the movement, and they now head their own label Meal Deal Records and do remixes for artists from Kate Nash to Klaxons. psychoPEDIA caught up with Tapedeck’s Alax who filled us in on his obsession with comics:

When did you first get into comics?
I think I was about 5 years old when my Dad bought me a massive comics annual for my birthday. I was also really into Calvin & Hobbes as a kid.

Where do you get yours from?
There's this place in Harrow called Calamity. I get them there because that’s where I live. There's also a comic book fair that happens every now and then in some hotel in London, which is pretty cool for picking up cheap stuff.

How many do you own?
Loads. To be honest, I’m more of a graphic-novel kind of dude these days, so I've got hundreds of those.

What do you like so much about them?
Any form of media which can have spin-off action figures is cool.

Favorite character and why?
I have to be really obvious and say Batman. I just relate to him being a depressive person with a father who is a popular on the property scene.

Can you remember the worst you've ever read?
Man, I read some Batman comic the other day called Arkham Asylum. It was really bad. I don't want some Charlotte Bronte-esque backstory about the asylum's history ruining my comic-reading high. Also, the art really sucked. It was like Batman as rewritten by a Lacuna Coil fan..

What’s your favorite movie adaptation of a comic book?
I really liked the first Spiderman film. I liked it so much that I even went and saw it again in France when it was dubbed into French. The worst is easily the recent Punisher movie. Why did it suck so bad? I think it was because he didn't violently annihilate enough people's lives.

Have you ever dressed up as a comic book character during sex?
I dressed up as the The Flash once. It was over in a second.

Do you think Spiderman could ever take Batman?
No way. A little self-doubt, schoolwork, relationship problems, and he's scared of heights? All Batman would need to do is Photoshop a picture of Bruce Wayne boning Mary Jane, and Peter Parker would lose the ability to climb walls and shoot webs. Have you not seen the movies?

What character do you think is the biggest pussy?
I really don't have much time for Superman. I don't think you can call him a pussy in the conventional sense of the word, because he is pretty brave and does have the strength to move planets. But there's just something about his face. No matter which artist renders it, that screams “pussy!" The biggest pussies are emotional pussies. Think about it.

Have you ever been sexually attracted to a character from a comic?
There some chick with a tail in Black Hole by Charles Burns who is really fit, but I think she only goes for guys who can remove their skin like a lizard.

What’s Tapedeck up to this year?
We both hate the fucking shit out of bulls, so we're training ourselves to become matadors. The music is just a way for us to fund all the bull-killing.

~Donald Crunk @ Styleslut


Go There:
Calamity, 17-19 Springfield Road, Harrow, HA1 1QF, UK. +44 20 8427 3831
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Frozen Yogurt Road-Test: Pinkberry to Red Mango
A Creamy War Breaks Out in New York

Just a couple of years ago, nobody cared much about frozen yogurt. In New York, as frozen yogurt chains disappeared in the '90s, Tasti D-Lite proved an acceptable alternative. All over the city, folks queued out the door as they waited to pay far too much for what was essentially the ghost of an ice cream cone.

Then in 2005, a Korean-American woman, Shelly Hwang, opened Pinkberry, a small frozen yogurt store in Los Angeles, unknowingly launching a culinary revolution. It became a West Coast phenomenon. Lines spilled onto neighboring property, stores opened up and down the California coast, and New York saw its first of the franchise open on West 32nd St. in Little Korea-- before surfacing in Chelsea, the Upper East Side, SoHo, and Greenwich Village. And soon to open is a location on West 58th St. opposite the monolithic Time Warner Center-– a tiny space which might have a hard time accommodating all the time-crunched CNN employees who will miss major news if their break lasts too long. (Hopefully Anderson Cooper will get a VIP pass.)

Pinkberry had rightfully earned the nicknames "Crackberry" and "frozen heroin juice" among its unwavering disciples. Manhattan now has frozen yogurt stores in all neighborhoods, most of which bear some semblance to Pinkberry's aesthetic cuteness and trademark dairy product. Yet among all the outlets that surfaced, there would, naturally, be some ample offerings around town...and psychoPEDIA checked them out:

We started in Brooklyn, the Earth Mother's answer to Pinkberry lies on northern Fifth Avenue in Oko, a shop hidden under a canopy made of solar paneling. A treehugger's dream, virtually everything in Oko is made from something else: bamboo, potato starch, sunflower seeds. And with dried apricots and gooseberries offered among its toppings, Oko has cemented its place as the hippie's dairy merchant of choice. Oko's flavors include creamsicle, wildberry, and chocolate, all of which are all delicious.

On to Williamsburg, where /eks/ (pronounced "X") sits in a humble, spacious basement-level space that serves several flavors of fro-yo. Upon a recent visit, a mother and daughter looking as if they'd just arrived from Long Island, spent an ample amount of time deciding whether or not to go with original or coconut. The original flavor at /eks/ is the least sweet of all we sampled, which makes it a great snack after an intense softball game at nearby McCarren Park.

Red Mango has two locations, one of which sits directly across the street from Pinkberry on Bleecker Street, Wild West showdown-style. If Red Mango didn't serve an excellent, creamier alternative to Pinkberry, it surely wouldn't have survived this long. If you've got a hankering for a smoother, more dense texture–- like gelato or ice cream–- Red Mango's the place to go. It definitely fits more into the "dessert" category-- but only has 90 calories a serving.

Yogo Monster steps up the game with ... cones! As expected, their frozen yogurt retains a delightfully tougher, shell-like texture that keeps it from slithering out of your sugar cone. They also have blueberry yogurt, which maintains the especially tarty tang of their original flavor with the added bonus of berry goodness. All of these qualities made Yogo Monster– which stepped into the FroYo game relatively late– a strong contender.

Larry Forgione's Signature Café and 40 Carrots at Lord & Taylor and Bloomingdale's, respectively, both offer frozen yogurt in their indoor, windowless cafes. Each establishment's offerings are very good, as well, if you're looking for more of an alternative to ice cream. Lord & Taylor comes out on top in this case, thanks not only to their offerings of fresh cherry and rhubarb toppings, but also in the opportunity provided to bear witness to the frighteningly bitchy behavior exhibited toward the wait staff by the elderly Ladies Who Lunch (and shop). On the wall sit square pegs that radiate changing pastel colors, which further places one in a time machine where, as the patrons age, the decor remains about as contemporary as Epcot's imagining of the future circa 1985.

~Eliot Glazer


Go There:
/eks/, 488 Driggs Ave, Brooklyn. (718) 599-1706
Yogo Monster, 88 7th Ave, Brooklyn
Larry Forgione's Signature Cafe, 424 Fifth Ave, NYC. (212) 391-3015
40 Carrots, 1000 Third Ave, NYC. (212) 705-3085
Flurt, 284 3rd Ave, NYC. (212) 777-6177
Yolato, 168 W 27th St, NYC. (212) 366-5960


First photo by jrgts via Flickr
Third photo by Melissa Hom
All other photos by Eliot Glazer
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Denim Road-Test: AG Jeans
Aussie Band Cut Copy Give the Classic Jeans a Spin

Aussie electronic-rockers, Cut Copy, know a thing or two about music and fashion. Considering the amount of hip cities they’ve seen while on tour, the inevitable sights of chic dressers has become commonplace. So it’s no surprise they loaned themselves to test out a few pairs of AG (Adriano Goldschmied) jeans while in New York City performing at not just one, but two, sold-out shows; Brooklyn’s Studio B and Manhattan’s Mercury Lounge two nights later.

Founded in 2000 by long-time garment guru, Adriano Goldschmied, the denim brand has since been known within the fashion community as a classic and sophisticated brand. AG handpicked three pairs for the trio– The Teddyboy in a Jet Black wash, and the Stockholm in a Raw Wash and Black Jack Wash– that fused AG’s more classic look with the band’s edgy aesthetic.

Originally a solo effort by lead singer, songwriter, and keyboardist Dan Whitford, Cut Copy later branched out to include Mitchell Scott and bassist Tim Hoey to round out their bridging synth-pop-electronic-disco soundscape. Tim Goldsworthy of DFA records fame took notice and subsequently produced their sophomore LP, In Ghost Colours, out this March on indie-favorite label, Modular Recordings.

Despite hectic scheduling in preparation for their next show, Scott, Hoey and Whitford were able to squeeze in some time with psychoPEDIA to chat about their new AG denim and find out what trends are evolving down under:

What was it like to work with Tim Goldsworthy?
MS: We recorded in the DFA studios here in New York City and were really excited to work with him. Tim’s work is really good quality and his way of production is great. Just being in the studio where they always work in is really cool– right in his own environment. Some of the psychedelic direction he gave us, and generally the way DFA records have gone into lately, was interesting–- the take on the noisy guitar elements, like that shoe-gaze-y My Bloody Valentine elements . The direction given to us in the studio was an unexpected surprise for us, but it was brilliant.

What did you think of the jeans?
MS: The main thing I liked from the jeans was that they weren’t anything too crazy. No brightly colored, crazy or big logos…

How do they fit?
MS: Tight fit, hipsters…

Your favorite thing about them?
MS: [It’s nice that they’re] just normal straight leg, skinny jeans without not too much decoration, trimmings, or stupid stuff. Just a classic look and color to them.

Would you say jeans and fashion in general are being pushed more in America or is it the same on your home turf?
MS: Depends on where you go. There are certain subcultures and smaller communities within the bigger cities that are probably more out there with fashion, and Australia certainly has a lot of that. Many kids in Australia are getting a lot more out there with fashion and color with tailored clothes. I’d say I run across it more in Australia than over here.
TH: I think a certain trend that’s happening in fashion in Australia is that boys are taking more pride in their appearance when they go out to clubs. Something I noticed with an article I read in the paper back home in Australia that boys are spending more time in their appearance when kids are going out. I see kids wearing $1000 leather jackets. And I’m thinking to myself, I could have never bought that kind of clothing when I was at the university! There’s this new phenomenon in Australia where boys are overtaking the girls; trying to push the fashion scene I guess.

Between Melbourne and Sydney, which city would you say is more fashion-conscious and pushing the envelope?
MS: There are a lot more Melbourne-based labels. We have a lot of friends who live and work there. I think Sydney is a lot louder; brighter colors and such. I think it reflects the weather. Nobody is really jumping out in pastels in Melbourne, that’s only really happening in Sydney.

Does the band wear jeans much on tour?
DW: All the time. It’s great because you get away without washing them for three weeks while touring, which I don’t recommend.
MS: Yeah… that’s totally true.

~Jessica McMenamin


First photo by Emilie Elizabeth
Third photo by Tommy Salmon
Fourth photo by Tim Cashmere via Flickr
Fifth photo courtesy of Cut Copy
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Road-Test: Ipso Facto's Essentials
The Cartoon Guitar Perverts Love Drums & Black Berets

Ipso Facto have crept into the consciousness of the young British public like a black and white vision of kittens jumping through magnifying glasses in a dream you once had after a night of red wine, Disney movies, and licorice cigarettes. These dream-like visions are not randomly conjured likenesses, but rather, what one imagines when listening to the band who were recently earmarked by a popular English broadsheet as the sole inspiration for YSL's show for Paris Fashion Week.

The four young girls— singer Rosie Cunningham, drummer Victoria Smith, keyboardist Cherish Kaya, and bassist Samantha Valentine— have come a long way in their first year together. Having started with a handful of psychedelic fairground ditties, they have hurtled into ‘08 with a number of sold-out singles and support shows for Yeasayer, and have become mini fashion icons. When a band this exciting comes around, most people obsess over the immediate now’s, how’s, and why’s— but with Ipso Facto, one can’t help but imagine them in ten years— playing with a full orchestra, with their own film, comic book, cartoon show, and faces splattered on lunch boxes.

psychoPEDIA got together with Cunningham and Smith to discuss cartoons, the Spice Girls, and the things they can’t live without:

What can't you live without these days?
RC: The black beret, because you can hide behind that. It pushes your fringe down so people can’t see that you have no eye make up on, you can go out with no makeup and shit clothes on, but as long as you have that black beret, you can survive.
VS: What about black tights?
RC: Yeah, but everyone has them. The black beret is better. If I feel rough, I can put on the black beret, and I’ll be fine.
VS: OK, then my drumsticks from Vic Firth, I can’t live without them. I break a set of sticks every gig. But we are talking song lifespan here. Regular sticks last two songs, but Vic Firth [last] about seven songs. Without them I wouldn’t be able to drum.

Are you quite anal about what instruments you use, then?
RC: I have always been a bit of a guitar pervert. It’s not a new thing, and it’s not like I can afford any of the guitars I perve [lust] over.
VS: I have that with electric drum kits as well, just because I could never afford one.

What instruments would you get if you had the money?
RC: Easy— a 1965 Fender Mustang in cream and brown.
VS: Mine would be a Roland B Series, but any grade really. It’s an electric drum kit for those who don’t know.

Were you just lucky that your style was similar in the group, or was there ever a point where you had to say to another band member, “You can’t wear those jeans on stage!”
RC: When we met we were lucky that we came from hanging out at the same places and dressed very similarly. But the whole black and white thing was a conscious decision— only so we could have some kind of uniform that people could identify [us] with.

Doesn’t the fact everyone could look like you in a year scare you?
VS: Kind of, because what if it becomes faddy? If it's connected with fashion, then it’s a short term thing, and we aren’t a short term thing and don’t want to be involved with a fad.

Is this black and white aesthetic something you’d like to stick with, like Ramones' philosophy of “dress the same till you die?"
VS: I would rather that than have to “Madonna-it-up” and keep re-inventing myself. That would totally go against our authenticity.
RC: We will develop, but perhaps not image-wise— definitely musically. The other day, I turned up to a gig in brown and white and got in a bit of trouble.

Is there a danger that so early in your careers, you could be scared to change anything?
RC: Not really. If we stick to the whole "look" thing, that means we can experiment however we like with the music.
VS: It’s interesting how the simplicity and predictability of image can draw people in obsessively.
RC: And the Spice Girls were a prime example of that. Victoria’s your Scary Spice. I would be Ginger, the confident one with the big boobs. Sam is Posh, the sexy one. And Cherish is the youngest, so she is Baby Spice.

I could also see you guys as a cartoon show like The Beatles had.
RC: Funny you say that, because some old guy approached us after a gig [saying] that he was an animator and that we were literally perfect cartoon material. I wish we could be made into a cartoon.

Is it strange hearing people describe you as being “too cool for school?”
RC: I guess we do seem like a sophisticated black-and-white, Nazi secretary, harsh females kind of thing, but it’s not how we are as people. We are more like cartoon characters in real life.

~Kevin Soar


Second photo by masatoo_hirano via Flickr
Third photo by K-Camp via Flickr
Fifth photo by 154 Photography via Flickr
Sixth photo by graguitar via Flickr
Eighth photo by Kevin Soar
Ninth photo via STEREO4
Tenth & Eleventh photos by John Lewis via Flickr
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Alcohol Road-Test: Lucid Absinthe
Brooklyn's Mixel Pixel Gossip at "Green Hour"

Whether or not they’d recognize it, Mixel Pixel are bona fide Brooklyn bohemians. A collective of visual artists, beauty-product artisans, and of course, musicians, their day jobs also include being a part-time assistant to a dermatologist and freelance designer. But when they’re not busy with an endless list of offbeat endeavors, members Rob Corradetti, Kaia Wong, and Matty Kaukeinen practice in a Park Slope studio, working on albums like their soon-to-come fourth release, Let’s Be Friends.

Who better to test Lucid, the first legal absinthe in America after 95 years of prohibition, than the trio that produces addictive, psychedelic pop tunes and hallucinogenic videos? As Wong has even been known to brew her own absinthe at home, not to mention making a line of lip balms and soaps— Lips by Wong— the three were more than happy to lend their lips to the challenge.

In true bohemian fashion, psychoPEDIA joined the band to savor absinthe on the floor of Corradetti’s apartment and ponder over the historically mystical potion:

Any previous experiences with absinthe?
RC: We drank it in San Francisco once at a house party. My friend and I were walking around feeling like we were floating. That was the only absinthe I’ve had that felt like it was actually doing something. Maybe they’ve improved it [the formula]. I’m still skeptical.
MK: I think Kaia’s given me some before.
RC: There’s such a cloud of mystery around it that we don’t know what we’ve had. I guess it’s the kind of thing where you’ll never know if you get the real deal. It almost has to be reinvented.

Kaia prepares the drinks by putting sugar cubes in a tea strainer and pouring shots of absinthe over the cubes. Next, she pours cold water over the cube, which creates a “loosh” effect making a cloudy liquid that releases an anise-fused perfume into the air.

Initial reactions?
KW: It’s very mild. It tastes very anise-y and sweet— but not syrupy.
RC: It tastes like New York City tap water. It’s pretty green, too.
MK: It’s almost like the alcohol and the other ingredients are two separate entities twirling about in my mouth. It’s a hootenanny! It’s delicious, though.

What would you pair it with?
RC: It would go well with opium.
MK: I could definitely use a cigarette with this. It would make any American cigarette taste like Gauloises.
RC: It seems like you should be able to sit at a bar, drink it, and smoke for hours and talk to your friends, or “bohemian cohorts.” But if you can’t smoke in bars in NYC, it sort of ruins the whole effect of the absinthe bar.

Why do you think absinthe is such a cult-classic beverage with artists?
RC: I think a lot of the allure was how it was prepared. It’s this big “to-do” and seems very glamorous to drink. And the effect— how it makes people actually feel is a big part of it.
MK: It’s known as one of the best aphrodisiacs. Back when it was first made, it was like the “liquor of love.” Remember in Bram Stoker’s Dracula when Winona Ryder and Keanu Reeves go into a club and he pours her absinthe over a sugar cube, then Winona sucks on the cube…

Most of your videos are pretty trippy. Were you under the influence of something at the time?
RC: We all did our share of psychotropic, hallucinogenic drugs. We don’t consider ourselves a “drug band,” though, because we don’t do a lot of drugs. I like the idea of playing with drug culture and people’s perceptions of it. But we’re more spiritual than we maybe come across. It’s OK, because in pop culture, you have two seconds to impress a person. Someone will scan through songs, and critics won’t even listen to your album. So, I like that we almost project this hyper-media, hyper-reality— and drugs is one of those things.

What is your vice of choice then?
RC: Law and Order—because I have three channels on my TV.
KW: French onion soup.

What is the process brewing homemade absinthe?
KW: I use strong vodka with herbs, including wormwood. It tastes different than this— maybe I didn’t put in so much anise. I use kits and infuse the alcohol with herbs.

How did you get into making lip balms?
KW: About eight years ago, I looked online and found a lip balm that was made of all ingredients you can eat. It seemed nice to be able to make your own homemade lip balms and give them to friends. I made an absinthe balm once, actually, using the leftover herbs from brewing in the mix. I make them for bands, and I’m releasing a vegan organic one soon— not using palm oils, because palms are harvested from areas where orangutans live, and it’s threatening their habitat. I’m trying to keep it environmentally good also.

How “green” of you. Speaking of which, what do you think of the bottle?
KW: It’s kind of like that guy in Looney Tunes.
RC: They could have a cut-away head with a transparent green brain inside of it, glowing.

Is it making you feel lucid?
RC: I feel a bit looser, a little cloudy. It looks cloudy. I get it.
KW: It’s just nice to focus on what you’re consuming and your company.

What are you working on musically right now?
RC: We have an album coming out in late May. It’s sort of a return to old Mixel Pixel, like Casio-style.
KW: It’s sweeter. We wrote a lot of the songs together, and they were directly influenced by whatever was going on in our lives. You’ll have us singing and playing with guitar to some new synth incarnation.

Like absinthe has been previously, what would you want to ban in the US if you had the power?
RC: They should ban all complaining "diet talk" in the workplace. If there's a delicious ice cream cake on the table for someone’s birthday, people can’t enjoy it. Someone’s always got to say something like, “But I’m so fat, I’ve got to go on a diet.” Let’s just have cake and have some fun!

Any last impressions?
KW: I feel calmer drinking this as opposed to drinking two shots of whiskey. I feel like taking a warm bath.
RC: It’s not that bad. Once you get it going, it’s pretty delicious.

How do you think they could bring this back in fashion?
RC: There should be a line of them, like Vitamin Water. 50 Cent flavor absinthe. These companies need to get rappers to endorse their product— some rappers in vintage 1910 dandy costumes.
KW: With feather hats.

Maybe bringing “green hour” to replace “happy hour?”
RC: Absinthe green hour, why not? Between 9 and 10 in the morning, before work— the “Green Hour,” after breakfast. It’s [absinthe] optional— you can eat lettuce too.

~Leann Peterson


First & second photo by James Ryang for paperrad
Third photo by Twon via Flickr
Fourth through ninth photos by Leann Peterson
Tenth photo by Lori Baily via Flickr
Eleventh photo by Nevbrown via Flickr
Twelfth photo by Amber Meairs
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Restaurant Road-Test: Blue Ribbon Sushi
Brit-Band Switches Take On Midtown (And Chopsticks)

Outside the restaurant, a publicist for Switches is on the phone giving directions to the lost Brit band as they try and find their way on a windy night in Midtown Manhattan. Blue Ribbon Sushi's newest outpost, at Six Columbus hotel, makes a welcome addition in Columbus Circle and is not far from where the band is staying– right next to the Late Show with David Letterman. They are in the midst of a US tour with the Brooklyn band The Bravery, promoting their latest album, Lay Down The Law. Switches have attracted the attention of two dominating forces in the British music scene: Radio 1, and the weekly paper NME, which wrote, "Switches can be confident that they are one of the finest purveyors of lip-smacking indie pop delicacies in the land." Their sound is not stripped-down guitar garage rock, but Beach Boys-influenced, power-pop harmonies.

A minute later they arrive for dinner in a flurry from the cold. "No one sounds like us right now. There's a big trend in the UK to be a regional band. To sing in your own accent. It's a bit sceney and we want to be bigger then that," says lead singer and the band’s songwriter Matt Bishop, wearing grape-colored jeans and patent leather high-top sneakers.

The restaurant seems more then double the size of its downtown sisters. There’s not an empty seat in the windowless, wood-paneled room, which is packed with Midtown tourists in business casual. Switches’ table is the only one with five young men all donning some variation of a shag. I assume this must be the reason our waitress, Sunanta, appoints me in charge of relaying all orders. That, or the amber light makes them look like a group foreign teenagers who don't speak the language.

We order Asahi beers and Bloody Mariko's (wasabi, spicy sauce, tomato juice and vodka). Sunanta rolls off a list of suggested appetizers: shrimp and pork shumai, hijiki salad, and scallops. "I don't eat sushi. I'll try it one of these days. Just not today. Are they going to bring forks and knives?" the drummer Steve Godfrey, aka "Beans," states, smelling of too much cheep cologne. "Tommy Hilfiger. I'm always running out," he offers, ordering another beer. "I like Asahi. Write that. Beans likes Asahi. And the waitress– she's cute."

Bishop plays around with his chopsticks. "I've never been able to use these," he says, trying to get it right. Bassist Ollie Thomas tries to soothe the situation. "I'm the band foodie," he says as he dips a shumai into wasabi. He has wide, Harry Potter-like blue eyes and is eager to tell me about his food experiences on the road: alligator in Louisiana, Artz Rib House in Austin, and a bus driver in Mississippi who ate goldfish. "These taste like real dumplings. Prawns, mate," bassist Thom Kirkpatrick tells a reluctant Beans who orders the orange duck breast entree. "I don't have a girlfriend," Beans goes on, "Haven't met the right one. But I figure if I just stick to the drums. I like Japanese girls." I tell him he may want to start eating sushi.

Making it in North America is difficult for a foreign band, but means a whole other level of success if they do. "Recording in LA was one of the best experiences of my life," Bishop says of making the Lay Down the Law on Sunset Boulevard. Ollie slides a piece a raw salmon onto the edge of Beans’ plate and gently coerces him. "Go on, mate. Try it. Do it for me." Beans bites, and the table cheers. "I'm really going for it now," Beans says stabbing his fork into a Maki roll. "I met The Vines after a show we played out there. That was a dream meeting. We grew up worshipping them and Blur and Pulp. Bands who were ambitious. The scene in England is small-minded." An enormous platter of chef’s choice, Omacasa, is placed before him. "I don't want to sound corny, but we want to take on the world." Bishop continues disassembling the bones of the twisted silver mackerel centerpiece with his fingers. "But we also want to make good music that we're proud of. We'd feel dirty if we didn't do that." Kirkpatrick pulls himself away from conversation with their publicist and his venison stew to report: "It's cooked in wine. A bit alcoholic, with these big semicircle things with holes in them. It's tasty, mate." Sunanta comes to my side, and I order green tea ice cream for the table. "And a cognac," Bishop adds.

Sunata brings me the check and bowls of the milky tea bags. "Texture’s nice, isn't it" Bishop says. "I just hope I don't get sick from all that fish. Big show tomorrow night." It turns out the restaurant has no idea who Switches are or that dinner was arranged to be complementary. I began to unravel the miscommunication as the band leaves for their hotel. "You should meet us at the bar in the lobby. It's perfectly faded with a run-down sort of glamour," Thomas tells me. The night goes on, and I wait at Blue Ribbon for phone calls and faxes to come in so that I don’t get stuck with the bill. I never make it to the bar to talk more about Switches’ plans to storm North America. But I do see them play the next night when they open up for The Bravery at Terminal 5. Shags hair-sprayed high, singing in harmony with the unsettled outcome of the previous night’s dinner not really weighing heavily on their minds (or in their stomachs). It remains to be seen whether Switches will make it big in the US, but at least we could agree that Blue Ribbon was by far the best meal in Midtown.

~Sara M Costello

Go There:
Blue Ribbon Sushi, W 58th St, NYC. (212) 397-0404.

Last photo by Bill Ellison
All other photos by Sara M Costello
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Video Game Road-Test:
Mario and Sonic at the Olympics

Comedian Joe Mande Would Rather Be Hunting Nazis

As a comedian on the downtown circuit, Joe Mande's name is quickly garnering buzz. Along with Noah Garfinkle, Mande hosts a weekly show at Rififi called Totally J/K, in which he tells stories, shares videos, and invites on guest performers. In just over a year, Totally J/K has quickly become a staple in the alternative scene, garnering some of the biggest names in comedy that fly just under the radar (although don't be surprised to see powerhouses Eugene Mirman, Todd Barry and Demetri Martin drop by to work out a set, either).

Having just been named New York's top Emerging Comic by the ECNY Awards in January, Mande has honed an onstage style that combines dry, self-deprecation, personal anecdotes, and, most recently, an extensive explanation of his newfound weakness for his treasured Nintendo Wii. Without regret, Joe has commandeered the stage on several occasions to sing the praises of what is, quite obviously, his most treasured possession. In his own words, just call him "Joe Mand-wii."

Just after he returned from touring with comedian John Mulaney, psychoPEDIA caught up with Joe at his apartment in Astoria to check out a new release for Wii, Mario And Sonic At The Olympic Games So, you're a huge Wii fan?
Yes. Huge. My brain can't handle anything beyond [the original] Sega Genesis, but the Wii is a different case. It doesn't care if you suck. It's an amazing machine.

Were you a Sega kid?
Completely.

There was definitely a divide among Nintendo kids and Sega kids.
Yeah, I was late on the whole video game thing. I was old when my parents got us a Sega. I was ten...which is apparently really old.

Have you continued playing games since then?
No, not until I got the Wii. In high school, I started doing stand-up and improv and stuff.

I didn't know you did improv.
Yeah, I'm not really good at it. I always come up with the best material three days later.

Instead, you've stuck with stand-up?
I started doing stand up when I was about sixteen, but after every show, I would quit for three months at a time and pledge to never do it again. I was trying so hard to be "edgy," and I was sixteen and doing open mics at Knuckleheads in the Mall of America at 5:30 in the afternoon for housewives. It was so awful.

You seem to have found your "voice," right? You're very natural on-stage.
Yeah, you could say that. I'm lucky in that I don't get stage fright.

In your case, I think it helps that there isn't much of a difference between your on-stage and off-stage personas.
Yeah. In fact, I was telling someone a story the other day, and it was weird because it felt like I was just doing stand-up. There are some comedians that are so different in real life than they are on stage, and I can appreciate that. But I'm just being myself, i guess.

Mario and Sonic at the Olympics covers a lot of popular events. What's your favorite?
I think the Ribbon Dancing competition is it. It's so good. It's just like, 'So, this is happening?'

It would be cool if they implemented playing the Wii as an Olympic event.
Maybe. Did you know that the athletes have to wear 9/11 masks in Beijing this year?

Would you recommend this game?
No. It blows. It's like the opposite of the real Olympics. It mocks you when you lose, and the Friendship Award [you receive upon losing] is complete bullshit.

It is really confusing.
Maybe you have to be an actual Olympic athlete to play this game. Although [the event] Skeet is awesome because, you know, 'Skeet skeet skeet!' The bottom line is [that] no video game will ever be as therapeutic as Wolfenstein 3D.

What's that?
It used to my favorite game. It was exactly like Doom, except you were killing Nazis. You were running around bunkers, killing Nazis. It was bonkers! I bet I would make a good video game reviewer.

What's the final word on Mario and Sonic?
It's just stupid. I'd say there's no story line. I love when video game reviews say there's no "narrative arc." That doesn't mean anything. But seriously, there's no narrative arc in this game.

Do you play video games while on tour?
Oh no. I wish. There's no bus or anything. [John Mulaney and I] literally rented a car and drove from little college to little college. It was great. I'm just now trying to comprehend what life would be like as a stand-up. When I moved to New York after graduating [from Emerson College in Boston], I thought I could just get a comedy writing job. I had no clue - I didn't have any clips or a reel, I had this attitude that I could do anything. But then I started doing stand-up, and met all these people who wrote for TV shows and The Onion, and they were miserable. But I love doing stand up, so if I can do that without someone telling me what to do, why not?

~Eliot Glazer

Joe will be appearing at "Serious Lunch" at the Upright Citizens Brigade Theater on 2/29 @ 6:30; "I Like Attention" at Sound Fix Records on 3/6 @ 8:00pm in Williamsburg NY; "Slumber Party" at Comix on 3/26 @ 8:00pm

First, second, and seventh photos by Anya Garrett via Flickr
Fifth photo by Eliot Glazer
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Pub Road-Test: Amersham Arms
London Art Collective Crystal Vision on the Art of Sandwiches

Crystal Vision is a collective of seven creative minds– a neat bunch of illustrators, cut-and-pasters, video makers, costume specialists, and in general, spontaneous and quirky visionaries– all with a debt to the talents of London’s Camberwell College. With a series of projects in tow (an upcoming 'zine fair and a current show at East London’s Dreambags and Jaguar Shoes bringing together all seven artists), there is much to look forward to with this burgeoning group. But unlike their fellow South-Londoners, the children of !wowwow!, of whom Crystal Vision has been quoted as a "budget version," the collective shies away from being pigeonholed in any particular art or fashion scene to avoid the trite and fleeting tags of "next big thing" or "cult cool."

With the group's feet grounded in the heart of gritty south London, psychoPEDIA decided to take members James Tanner, Oli Jennings and Will Rigby, to sample the lunchtime offerings of a local Irish boozer, which has recently become a popular hang-out– Amersham Arms. It even doubles as an art gallery and performance venue and is known for its outstanding pies. Shaping up to be quite the event, with James having been previously barred from an Amersham event and the pub having an untimely power-cut (meaning no hot food), the collective crept in for sandwiches and cocktails:

How does this compare to your other local drinking establishments?
OJ: Its no fox on the hill.
JT: They definitely killed off the old place. No old men or crazy drunks in here anymore. Have been to some good gigs here in the back bit, too.
OG: Before you were thrown out.
WG: It’s just a shame we can’t sample the pies today.

Sandwiches it is, then. What are our choices?
OJ: Limited to 6 options. I’ll have Brie and Tomato then.
JT: Roast chicken and sweet chili.
WG: Roast chick…
OJ: We can’t all have the same!
WG: Ok, Ham and Aloei

Does the name Crystal Vision have anything to do with magic?
OJ: It definitely has nothing to do with that Fleetwood Mac song. We didn’t know about that until after.
JT: I didn’t know about it until now. But I think it had something to do with Grandmaster Flash, “visions, dreams of…”
WG: “The Golden Virgins” got banded around.
OJ: We all like crystals, as well. Will used to collect crystals.
WG: I did, yes.
OJ: It just sounds nicer the more you say it.

Do you work like a superhero team, with each member having a specific ability?
WG: We all have different styles. Dan is more into comic-based stuff and works in different ways from the rest of us.
JT: But there is a common ethos within the group.

And how would you describe this common ethos?
JT: A lot of it is based around music and celebrity. We are also all into paper rad.

[Sandwiches arrive]

Who’s the best sandwich-maker in Crystal Vision?
OJ: We all make good sandwiches. Its kind of a thing we do, if we weren’t artists…
WG: I’m big into tuna melts at the moment.

Would you classify yourselves as sandwich artists, then? Better than Subway?
WG: I like Subway. I don’t see where all the negativity comes from.
OJ: Rory [from Crystal Vision] is always “Subway’s bollocks, Subway’s bollocks,” but I like it.

How are the sandwiches then?
JT: The chicken isn’t exactly roast chicken, but the sweet chili part of it is nice.
WG: My ham sandwich is good though, just like ham and mustard really.
OJ: I would expect more meat in your sandwiches for £3.50, but they saved it with the bread, which is pretty good.
JT: Kettle chips are the best crispy, so that’s a plus point.
OJ: It’s bad news about the power-cut, because we are hard to please with sandwiches. I think Brie is the winner, though!

Does the collective act as kind of a cushion for your solo careers, something to hold your hand as you enter the creative world?
JT: It’s a good platform for us to show our work, though we’ve never worked collectively on one piece of artwork yet.

How would you do that as a collective though? It would be tough splitting the money between all of you.
JT: The shows would hopefully lead to getting people who would be interested in particular artists and would take them off to do work. Everyone would be supported by everyone else.
WG: Like Power Rangers.

It’s like the Wu Tang Clan, who all got good solo projects out of their group and helped each other on the way. Who’s your GZA, the genius?
OJ: I want to be the RZA and make the Gravediggers album.
JT: Dan is Ol' Dirty Bastard.

What was the premise behind your current show?
WG: There wasn’t a particular theme, but everyone’s work seemed to have revolved around idolism by accident. There were aspects of celebrities, the totem pole, musicians, worship.

Do you involve yourselves in the London art scene?
JT: Most of us don’t go to the traditional exhibitions and galleries. We are a lot more aware and influenced by pop-culture.

Sandwiches must have been all right, as you finished them pretty quickly.
OJ: Overall, they were good. But, we are genuinely good sandwich critiques. We make pretty special sandwiches ourselves, as James and I used to work together in a café making them. Where are those cocktails?

[They ordered: a Ford Cosmo-Tina (citrus vodka, cointreau, orange bitters, lime, cranberry) Bristol 401 (gin/lemon juice/gomme/crème de mures), Hackney Carriage (dark rum, lime juice, ginger beer), and a Magic Bus (tequila/cointreau, orange and cranberry)]

Did you used to make cocktails as well?
OJ: I did, sandwiches and cocktails-- they can’t get anything past me.
JT: The Hackney Carriage is great, a winter warmer cocktail.
WG: And, a summer drink at the same time. They have all the right ingredients to my tastes: cheap, alcoholic, and fruity. It’s all there. I could easily get wasted on this.
OJ: Why are they named after cars?

Whose is the best?
WG: The ginger one-- the Hackney Carriage.
JT: You can’t go wrong with 2 for £6.
OJ: I really like this Cosmo-tina. But I would have to drink it sitting down and hiding. It has a very feminine look. Would have to hide from them geezers.

~Kevin Soar

Sixth, seventh, and eighth photos by Vicky Hayward
All other photos by Kevin Soar
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Road-Test: Lady Mendl's Tea Salon
High Tea Time Hitting All the Right G-Spots

‘Tis rainy-wet-cold in New York, the sort of weather that is tolerable if you are in London– where that sort of behavior, on the part of the climate, is romantic. Where there are enough matronly ladies to say, "Oh dear, not the gym, Love." Of course, they will laugh at the silly idea of anyone huffing away on a pretend staircase when there are crumpets to be had. "You need a spot of tea, Love." I really do. I need that spot. And no, not the kind spraying out of spigots, served in cardboard. I want proper tea, like Alice had. I want a Wonderland too.

But then, I don't want the kind of tea I once had at the George V Four Seasons in Paris, where it was endless quantities of crème and decadence. For, if you are a gal who can't say no – as perhaps I might be considered, when presented with tiers of lusciousness – then you find yourself saying, “Oh, I won't be needing this very quaint teacup and saucer and plate. Do you have anything in, say, a trough?”

I want warmth. I want the UK, but not Sweeney Todd. I want to dress up, but not feel like I need a bumper sticker that reads: “My other outfit is Armani.” I want to be sedated and sated. I want it to be a G-spot kind of tea.

Lady Mendl's Tea Salon, so my non-matronly friend prescribed.
"They won't Hansel and Gretel you. And then you go to the gym."
"No gym. Want tea."
"The servers are hot. They are the crumpets. You'll want to go to the gym after."

It is located in a Henry James-ish brownstone that's almost speakeasy-hard to find, which adds a delicious air of exclusivity. And when I raise my pinkie as I drink my cup, I will have extra good reason, too.

As soon as I enter, the charming lads help with the umbrellas, the wet coats. Oh, and they have charming accents. We are not in New York City anymore – we have all agreed. If we were in New York City, there would not be nice soaps and lotions (normally bolted down as they are in an airplane), resting so very vulnerably in the charming porcelain and wood loo.

And the portions are just right– they give you just enough. Lots of liquids, they keep that flowing at the tea party. Lovely selections for all tastes, caffeinated and herbal. Elegant china teapots, cups and saucers. The sandwiches may be small, but we are ladies, not Augustus Gloop. The cakes and scones are just the right size to be able to go the gym after, and not pass out in a sugar-clotted crème-hysterical haze about what just was swallowed. Oh, and the servers are so attentive. And tres attractive. They will even feed me with their tongs – testing how close they can get and not lose fingers, perhaps? ‘Tis safe?

Ahh, who needs silverware?! I am not an uptight Brit after all! Thank god! I am a hungry gal from Brooklyn who found G-spot tea! We are all in agreement. This is someplace else. It is not too stuck-up, and not at all Starbucks. It is just right.

~Laura Albert

Sunglasses by Blinde, style "88 Specials"
Clothing by Miss Sixty
Lipstick by Smashbox
Hair by Rudy Riveria

Go There:
Lady Mendl's Tea Salon, 56 Irving Place, NYC. (212) 533-4466
*Reservations required for 5-course tea; served Wed-Fri at 3pm and 5pm, or Sat-Sun at 2pm or 4:30pm
*$30 or $45 per person plus tax and gratuity

Last photo, courtesy of My Sweet Connection

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Road-Test: What Holy Fuck Wants
The Toronto Band on Their Must-Have Products

For a band dubbed “Toronto’s evil supergroup,” Holy Fuck is actually quite affable. The lo-fi electro group—founded in 2004 by Brian Borcherdt and Graham Walsh (both on keyboards and vocals)—has in its many incarnations toured with the likes of Wolf Parade, !!! and Cornelius. Considering the band's eclectic sound and their extensive international travel experience, we figured, who better to ask about their latest obsessions?

While Holy Fuck’s line up and musical accompaniments (instruments are often sourced from trash bins) have varied from show to show, their reputation for making mesmerizing music has stayed solid. We caught up with the Canadian foursome (Borcherdt, Walsh, Brad Kilpatrick and Matt McQuaid) at Maxwell's in Hoboken, just before they took the stage to open for Super Furry Animals. Here, they offer insight on the products they can't live without.

You guys have done quite a bit of touring, most recently with !!!...
BB: Yeah it was like the question mark versus the exclamation mark. It was like a grammar rodeo.

Were they a lot of fun to tour with?
MM: Definitely. We’ve been lucky we only tour with nice bands.

What’s the number one thing you miss about home when you’re on the road?
GW: Probably our girlfriends.
BB: I miss my cat.
MM: I’m pretty partial to my own bed…
BB: My bed sucks I don’t care.
GW: I’ve got hookups for you. My sister works for the Four Seasons and she can get crazy discounts [on Stearns & Foster.

Aren’t those like $3,000 mattresses?
GW: Yep, only we pay $500! If they do a big order it’s super-cheap.

Have you picked up any particularly interesting products abroad?
MM: I got this slimy, waxy lip stuff [called Lip Therapy] in the UK that’s lasted forever. It comes in a little tube. It’s in a little round tube and it’s Vaseline brand. But I’ve never found it the same way. It has aloe in it.
BB: It’s probably whale…[laughs].
BK: And the Yorkie bars. Yorkie bar: not for girls. There’s a picture of a girl on it with a slash through it.
MM: Maybe that just means they’re no girls in the
BB: It’s not tested on girls. I was eating those magnum chocolate covered chocolate ice cream bars a lot. I was out there in the UK when it was freezing, eating them; our tour manager thought I was crazy.
MM: There’s also a Danish candy called Skipper Skraw that was the tentative title for one of the songs our album. We still call it that sometimes, but we had to name it something else because we didn’t want to get sued by some crazy ...

Out of all of your instruments, what’s your favorite?
BB: Tuba [laugs].
GW: My favorite thing to play is this little synth that I have. A friend gave it to me. I don’t know where it’s from. It’s called the Rhythmic8 and unfortunately I've never seen another one except for a guy from Australia was selling it online. It’s probably this big [gesturing with his hands]. And all the sounds are 8 bit. They sound like a Nintendo. It’s straight out of a video game. Even though you can't really find that particular synth, there's a company out of Gothenburg, Sweden called Elektron that makes a synth out of the circuit of a Commodore 64. It sounds amazing...if anyone knows where I can get another Rythmic8 keyboard, let me know! They're super rare!
MM: That’s my favorite too.

Do you ever get to play it?
MM: No, no I don’t.

Do you ever buy new instruments?
[They slowly nod in unison.]

Is it true that you “find [instruments] in the trash and plug it in?”
GW: Yeah, we’ll do that too. That’s cool. We’ll pull thing out of the trash… like Bryan’s film synchronizer. It makes wicked sounds.
BB: I stole a butter knife from the kitchen I’m going to use that tonight. I’ll be wielding it around manically. That’s before the show even starts.

You've played some pretty big shows—the Glastonbury festival included. How was that?
BB: Money… and chaotic fun… drunk…
GW: It wasn’t like most festivals cause we were camping so we were roughing it. Plus, it’s just huge. But it was a lot of fun.
BB: I thought we were getting shitty treatment. I was like, ‘I can’t believe they’re making us stay in these tents!’ And then the Who were staying right next to us, getting all upset, the mud was getting all over their outfits. Yea they blew the helicopter budget on Arcade Fire so… it was cool. It was fun meeting them and hanging out.

~Interview by Abbey Braden
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Restaurant Road-Test: Lunetta
Artist Mathew Cerletty on Manhattan’s Recent Acquisition

In New York, the tried-and-true formula of restaurants setting up shop in Manhattan, then expanding to include an outer-borough outpost, has proven popular. (Think Blue Ribbon and Café Habana, which have both set up sister spaces across the river.) But today the reverse seems to be happening.

In the wake of Brooklyn eateries like Aurora and Frankies 457 installing Manhattan outposts, comes Lunetta--the Flatiron-located sister to the original Boerum Hill eatery. (And the trend hasn’t stopped there: Brooklyn boutique Oak recently opened a new outpost on Bond Street, while Williamsburg's Black and White Gallery debuted a second space in Chelsea.)

Eager to taste the latest from Lunetta chef/co-owner Adam Shepard, we enlisted the help of artist Mathew Cerletty, a seasoned Brooklyn resident who’s no stranger to the commute (he’s represented by the East Village's Rivington Arms Gallery). The budding art star recently wrapped up a solo show at Soho's Team Gallery and is enjoying some quiet time before heading to Antwerp this fall to show at Office Baroque. Considering Cerletty has shied away from press in the past (appearances such Vanity Fair's Hedi Slimane-photographed feature are few and far between), fine Italian fare proved an ideal excuse. Here, over the course of a leisurely three-hour dinner, Cerletty discusses panna cotta and channeling Paul Giamatti:

What do you think of the place?
It’s nice. I like the lights. There’s lots of space here compared to most restaurants in Manhattan. I never realized this was like a furniture district. I need new furniture; I’m going to have to come back here. What is it, Wednesday?

Yep, Wednesday…
[Referring to the menu] Whole Grilled Snapper day…

[The waitress explains the cocktail menu—a selection of Prosecco-based concoctions currently substituting for Lunetta’s soon-to-be-opened full-bar.]

I think I have to do the normal thing. Is there a glass of red that you recommend? Something dry, full-bodied?
Waitress: There’s a really nice Syrah…
I’ll try that.

[The waitress tells us about the specials.]

Do you have any favorites?
Waitress: The Butternut Mezzalune, served with a butter and sage sauce. The Duck Agnolotti, which actually means pope hats. It’s little triangle pastas filled with duck. All our Bruschette are awesome. The Ricotta with hazelnut and lemon zest is a favorite. We make the Ricotta in house. The scallops are excellent; and the Veal Saltimbocca, which means jumps in your mouth, like it’s so delicious it jumps into your mouth. It’s pounded flat so it’s very tender and served with pancetta and little potato croquets.

[We settle on Octopus, Ricotta Bruschette, Veal Saltimbocco, Scallops and Duck Angnolotti.]

That was very detailed. I never listen to them actually. Every once in a while there'll be an ingredient that I'm like, oh, ‘I liked that,’ but then it's gone. Have you ever had a waiter be really aloof, with a chip on their shoulder? Never make eye contact with them. It establishes a hierarchy. Just don't look over when they look at you; it's humiliating. My friend told me that, he's a psychiatrist.

Are you saying we should do that now?
No, she's too nice and attentive.

How's the wine she suggested?
Okay this time I'm going to really pay attention. [He swirls and sips] I learned that from Paul Giamatti. That’s good. I’d recommend that.

[The chef sends out a plate of fried Zucchini.] Those are good chips. [Next comes the Bruschette.] That's delicious. Like desert.

How long have you lived in Williamsburg?
Four years. I don’t particularly want to live there. I don’t like that it’s so homogenous. It feels like a copout. If you’re going to live in New York it should be like this [gesturing out the window] with the tall buildings, tons of different kinds of people all over the place doing different things. But, having a studio and an apartment, I would have to get a live/work and I think I might get really weird then. It would be bad if I didn't have to talk to someone once a day. I would start believing in things that weren't true [laughs].

[The octopus arrives.] That’s its face [pointing to the larger piece in the center of the plate]. The face is the best part—a lot of people don’t know that and go for the legs. My old roommate was trying to tell me that the octopus is the smartest animal in the world. Not true. He believed it based on seeing one NOVA special where an octopus opened a jar or something.

So what is the smartest animal?
I don’t know the answer to that. But I looked up the octopus and it said: the octopus is very smart, intelligence equivalent to the house cat. The dolphin is famous for it’s intelligence, also the ape. But those aren’t as smart as the Bonobo, the Gorilla and [pause] I guess Chimpanzees are smart. I think Orangutans are really good with language, whereas Bonobos are really good at doing it with each other. I don’t know what’s the best, but they’re clearly all smarter than the octopus.

Do you like the dish?
Yes, it’s delicious. It’s weirdly tender.

[Next come the veal, duck and scallops.]

What do you think?
These are really good tater tots [digging into the veal]. And the scallops, you can’t go wrong with those. This is the duck pasta? She called them pope hats. I don’t think that’s a technical term… that’s good. But this [pointing to the scallops] might be the winner for me.

What’s the overall rating?
Number one goes to the scallops; number two to the pope hats; and three to the Ricotta Bruschette.

So what are you working on right now?
I just finished two big paintings of the North Face logo. I’ve been doing all of these logos that are text, mostly commercial stuff [Diet Coke and The Economist included]. I don't like saying I paint logos and make them my own; I just don't want it to sound like a weird formula.

So how do you choose them?
They just keep popping up. The things that I pick I usually have a relationship with. Like North Face, in high school the kids who had the North Face jackets were the cool rich people. I just liked the design of it and I wanted to try and do something that would be surprising; it's such a well-designed logo and it's also familiar. It's sort of challenging to take something that already has so much baggage and try to pull it over and say, ‘No, that's mine now.’

Is this at all reactionary to your having received so much praise for your portraiture at the beginning of your career?
Definitely. This was new for me so it was exciting in that sense. Doing portraits was great but it started to not feel like the right thing. Or it’s just not the kind of work that I’m drawn to. I’m pretty lazy I guess, so, if I don’t care, I can’t make myself do it.

[A Honey Panna Cotta arrives.]
I don’t think I’ve ever had Panna Cotta [dipping into the white, lightly glazed desert.] That’s good, really good.

~Alisa Gould-Simon

First photo by Hedi Slimane for Vanity Fair
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Accessory Road-Test: Billykirk No. 90 Belt Pouch
Skateboarding Legend Rodney Smith Revisits His Roots

Skateboard-industry pioneer Rodney Smith, has come full circle. From starting Shut Skates in 1986, to spearheading Zoo York in 1993 (and subsequently selling it to Marc Ecko Enterprises), he’s now back where he started, breathing new life into Shut Skates, which he co-owns with Eli Morgan Gessner, Adam Schatz and Greg Chappman. With only five employees working out of the basement of their soon-to-open retail store on Orchard Street in Manhattan’s Lower East Side, Shut Skates’ team is the epitome of the term 'grass-roots.' No fancy offices for these folks -- try three rooms, a space heater and dreams of becoming the next big thing to hit East Coast skateboarding.

Considering Smith’s ever-present need to stay organized throughout 20-years of sweat and labor for skateboarding’s sake, it’s little surprise that he credits his Billykirk leather pack with keeping him in check. Billykirk is the brainchild of two LA-based (by way of Minnesota) leather artisans who built their company, and its covet-worthy accessories, from the ground up. Over a few shots of tequila (key to staying warm in his cold office), Smith took the time to tell psychoPEDIA about Shut’s new plans and divulge details on why his trusty leather pack works so well. In his own words:

When did it all begin?
The Shut evolution actually started in 1986, but my ex-partner, Bruno Musso and I, didn’t start taking what we were doing seriously until there was a demand for what we were making. That was inwards around 1988 to 1989. Prior to that we were a traveling skate team, fresh out of school, having fun….

Even though you were young and having fun, you’ve maintained a strong business ethic; starting with Shut, then Zoo York and now with Shut Skates again….
Yeah, I was always the den mother for the kids. Our persona gave off the feeling that we were a little tougher and rougher. We set out to be this group of individuals that was basically a support group, who didn’t have such stable homes and to help them. Many of the soon to be pro-skaters for Shut and Zoo York didn’t have a lot of direction with skateboarding and we helped them.

When you sold Zoo York you made a killing from Marc Ecko and could’ve said, “I’m done.” Why didn’t you?
I wasn’t finished yet. Nothing can turn my mind off of skateboarding. I immediately knew I needed to keep the momentum going when I first ended Shut to then start Zoo York, because if I didn’t, someone was going to eat my lunch. Skateboarding was just wide open and someone would’ve just taken it. And then with Zoo York, with the selling of that brand, the end came for all of us at the point when we started having talks and conversations with the Ecko family. Zoo York took on a new face at that point. We knew we’d entertain that idea of selling the company if we had gotten it to a certain level. [But] personally, my big drive is to help out anyone that has anything to do with it on the East Coast. There are too many lost souls and lost skaters that don’t have a lot of direction, and that’s what drove me to stick with it.

So, throughout the years, what’s an item that’s been tried and true to help you stay organized?
Well, the more recent item I’ve purchased is this Billykirk pack. I’m sort of a pack rat myself and I’m not very good at keeping receipts, so this pack helps me out a lot.

What do you like about it?
It’s a very simple design made out of leather. You can perfectly fit a blackberry phone inside, with room for business cards and other things. It’s attached to my belt, because it has a loop where you can run your belt through the loop. Super simple. Back in the day, during the 80’s, Bruno Musso was Mr. Fanny Pack guy. He’d always have his fanny pack and stuff shit inside. People are making fun of me now too and saying, ‘what the hell is that thing?’

Where did you find it?
I didn’t buy it from an official Billykirk dealer; I actually bought it off this guy on the street in Williamsburg! Some dude on the street selling random stuff!

No way!
Yup, I saw it and said, ‘I’ll take it!’ Sold it to me for $10 bucks!

After all you’ve been through, you really are going back to basics and back to your original punk rock and grass roots mantra!
You know, I feel really good about it too and just the thought of going back to where I belong is very exciting to me…

~Jessica McMenamin

Get Yours:
Billykirk is sold in both the US and Japan at stores like Takashimaya, Ron Herman, Aloha Rag, and Barneys.

First photo by Alan Ying
Third photo by Stoked Mentoring via Flickr
Last photo by Gregg Chapman
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Accessory Road-Test: Comme des Garcons Wallet
The Ones' Paul Alexander on Marc & Moneybags

One part electro to two parts disco, The Ones’ 80s-infused sound is as uniquely infectious as its gregarious members—Paul Alexander, JoJo Americo and Nashom Wooden. And all this from a trio of downtown club icons whose high-fashion connections go back to high school (Alexander befriended Marc Jacobs back when the two were 15).

From stints as shop boys at stylist Patricia Field’s namesake boutique (back when its roots were planted in the East Village), to topping UK charts with club-friendly hits like “Flawless” and “Superstar,” it’s been quite a ride for The Ones. And, considering their long-awaited self-titled debut album finally drops this spring—and boasts production by A Touch of Class, the NYC team responsible for lending its own Midas touch to both Scissor Sisters and The Gossip—it’s only the beginning. psychoPEDIA called Alexander on a chilly weekday morning to discuss the band’s upcoming star-studded video shoot, as well as the new accessory he can’t live without. In his own words:

How are you?
I’m good. Just watching The View. Whoopi Goldberg has made that show really good.

I heard that you have quite a beloved recent purchase?
Yes, my new favorite thing is my Comme des Garcons wallet. It’s a replacement for my Prada wallet. I lost two other [Prada wallets] from drunken nights out. My third one was perfect; it was red. It got worn and torn and the zipper was damaged. When I took it to Prada they wouldn’t replace the zipper and they didn’t sell it anymore. So I found this new Comme des Garcons wallet. I took it on default but I’m so happy with it. I can’t believe I haven’t used it all along.

What do you love most about it?
It’s so big you can use it as a folder. You can organize your bills and your receipts in it. It’s big enough and small enough. It is the ultimate wallet. It’s embossed in their design—a circle and a star or snowflake. And that it’s red.

Why red?
Red is meant to be a good luck color for money. So that was mandatory—it had to be red and Prada’s didn’t come in red anymore.

For status-conscious people, what does the wallet symbolize?
What I like about it is that it’s kind of like the Bottega Veneta theory—your own initials are enough. Anyone who knows Comme des Garcons will recognize it, and, if you don’t know it, it doesn’t scream at you. An educated consumer will know what it is. It’s got that kind of privileged club thing where if you’re cool enough to know, you’ll know what I’m doing when I pull it out; but, if you don’t, it won’t scream at you like a Louis Vuitton does.

Does that relate to your personality as well?
Yes, because I am showy like that. But I don’t want to be in your face about it. If you’re up on it you’ll be like, ‘wow, that’s good.’ If you’re not you won’t think I’m a designer label snob, which I really am.

Is it true that The Ones met at Patricia Field?
Yes, we were all working at Patricia Field. We worked there for a long time; we got our back teeth growing up in that store—the old store on 8th Street. Then I worked at Bergdorf Goodman doing visual display. And I styled music videos and fashion. I’m all about fashion. I love luxury items.

Do you think one’s wallet represents its owner?
Yeah, to a real fashion person it’s all about the details. What a good shoe and a good wallet say is everything. They are also the places most people would overlook. Say you were to wear a Christian Lacroix dress with a Payless shoe—it diminishes it. Whereas, if you buy a Targé [Target] dress and wear it with a Christian Louboutin shoe it lifts it up. The wallet is the same idea. Those little details totally make the difference.

What do you think about Marc Jacobs’ latest campaign featuring Posh Spice [Victoria Beckham] and MIA (individually)?
That is shocking! MIA? She is not so well known, but I think she is the biggest, hottest thing at the moment. She has been for a while; she’s hitting it. I’m so happy he chose her for that. Victoria, I thought she equated everything that the luxury brand is about. She’s young; she lives the lifestyle. But I think it is celebrity obsession that’s really pushing the market. I don’t see music as much as Hollywood. I don’t think it’s going to change. At this point celebrity just comes from having enough money to buy publicity. We’re celebrating people for the fact that they bought PR. But that’s our culture at this moment, and the fact that the media is basically always Paris, Lindsay and Britney stories is proof in the pudding.

Speaking of Marc, I hear he’ll be making a cameo in your video shoot this weekend…
Yeah. It’s for our single, "When We Get Together". The idea between the director and ourselves was to have various people show the spectrum—general walks of life coming together and being one. We’re all as good as the last; everyone influences and everyone is important in this world. That’s my opinion. It’s just trying to put a nice little cap on all of that. We’ve asked the Scissor Sisters, a couple burlesque stars, a few models, because everyone loves some pretty models... Deborah Harry, Ultra Naté, Jody Watley from Shalamar. It’s just a microcosm of society.

Any idea of what kind of wallet Marc carries?
You know, I don’t know. I don’t know if it’s a Marc Jacobs or a Louis Vuitton. I don’t think he’s such a loyalist. But I know he loves Louis Vuitton, because when we were kids there was a painting in his house of The Supremes done in the Louis Vuitton pattern… I didn’t know about these things. He educated me. He was a sophisticated Upper East Side-r and I was growing up in the Bronx. He explained all that to me and that’s one thing I’ve always associated with him. So, years later for him to be designing Louis Vuitton is ironic.

What is your favorite place in NYC to pull out your wallet?
Well, there isn’t just one [laughs]. Every day I go to the Chelsea Market and I pull out the wallet and think about how happy I am that I can organize my bills. Before I used to fold money in half; now I lay all the [bills] next to each other. I learned in Japan how they deal with money—they lay the money so that all the faces are upright and facing the same direction; they’re all lined up in numerical order. And it’s a joy.

~Alisa Gould-Simon


Watch The Ones' video for "Ultra Modern Disco."

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Detox Road-Test: Reparer
Health Expert Sally Kravich on Organ Cleanses & Quick Fixes

It is at this exact point in the lunar calendar—one is fresh off New Year’s Eve indulgences and has most likely spent weeks overeating and boozing—when the body is in its most extreme state of disrepair. Most are far from looking their freshest, and, as always, the reigning-number-one New Years resolution is to hit the gym more. So, what to do?

While, for some, detoxification is a dirty word (one that signifies a lot of pain and little gain), it’s an essential part of self-repair. And it doesn’t have to be so unpleasant, which psychoPEDIA learned from natural health expert Sally Kravich, whose expertise and A-list client roster have landed her in W, Self and Vogue magazines. In fact, Kravich’s own detoxifying secret weapon even sounds quite quaint… it’s called Reparer. We spoke with Kravich post-New Years, just hours before the specialist’s bi-annual visit to the Goddess Repair Shop for some toxin release. Here, she discusses the key to detoxification success, and what to categorically avoid:

Tell me about Reparer…
It’s an organ cleanse. It reads your energy. You put your hand on a metal plate and they roll it on your stomach. It reads the frequency of where the toxins are and releases them. In addition to the hand thing, the machine also hooks onto your ears with these little plugs; they take you into a deep mediation state. And, whenever you’re doing a cleanse meditation is key.

What kind of reaction does one typically have to it?
The thing is, when you do cleanses it stimulates organs—especially the liver and gallbladder. Every organ and cell has certain cellular memories. And organs have emotions that connect with them—the liver connects with anger, the gallbladder with resentment. So, sometimes people are really weepy or angry for a day, or two, or three.

How often do you recommend using the Reparer?
With any of these things, one has to be in tune with oneself. You don’t go in every day for an organ cleanse. I go twice a year. I’ll go after New Year's, or in the spring. You can do an organ cleanse and a few days later follow it with a colonic. To me, these things help accelerate, or get you to a deeper level when you’re doing a cleanse.

What’s the most integral part of a cleanse?
The ideal way to cleanse is to come to someone like me and get on a good diet that fits into your lifestyle. If you don’t diet it can back up your system. So the first thing you want to start doing is taking a probiotic, because that helps kill all of the yeast and sugar from all of the foods and alcohol. The next thing is to swear off all flour products. Eliminate alcohol, flour, sugar and dairy. Have veggies, fruits, meat and whole grains.

What about the day directly following a lot of indulgence—i.e. a greasy-food alternative?
Go to soup. Veggie soup is the easiest thing in the world for feeling better. Soups [like Sally's Sensitive Stomach Soup] and fruit. Also, for hangovers, take probiotics and extra Vitamin C. Have some before going out partying, and before you go to sleep.

What if you’re looking for something you can do at home? Do treatments like detoxifying foot baths and foot pads actually work?
Yes. I have the Bio-Energizer Foot Spa. But there are so many. The Japanese came out with it first, and they’re all really the same thing. There isn’t any one that’s better than the other. You use it for 15 minutes to 30 minutes every other day. Some of them claim a little bit more than what they do… people are always looking for that quick fix. But, it definitely helps pull toxins. I’ll have my kids use it if they seem to be coming down with something. It’s great for release. The foot pads are good too. But you can break out in rashes if you’re really toxic when you use them. I recommend using them [typically overnight] for a maximum of two weeks, then stop for a few months.

Speaking of quick fixes, what about fad cleanses like the Master Cleanse/Lemon Cleanse?
Some people like to go on the Master Cleanse, but I don’t recommend it. If you want to do it for 2 or 3 days that’s ok, but for 10 days, you’ll start taking enamel off of your teeth. I’ve had people with $80,000 of dental damage from it. Have hot lemon and water in the morning to start. Later in the day add a lemon master cleanse. But for days on end? Nasty.

~Alisa Gould-Simon


Get Yours:
Find the Reparer, $125 for a 30-minute session, at the Goddess Repair Shop in NYC [315 West 57th Street, (212) 245-8235], and LA [3401 Pacific Ave, Suite 1B Marina Del Rey, (310) 822-1947]
For more from Kravich, check out her tome Vibrant Living
Looking for an individualized consultation with Kravich? The LA-based specialist will be in NYC seeing clients from January 8th to February 5th.
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Makeup Road-Test: Napoleon Perdis Gel Eyeliner
Neurosonic on Makeup Tricks and True Punk Rock

Less than a month ago, controversy erupted after Canadian rock band Neurosonic played NYC’s Knitting Factory. While on stage, lead singer, Jason Darr, claimed Fall Out Boy's Pete Wentz had sent him a cease and desist letter. Darr’s offense? Neurosonic’s song "So Many People" – a scathing anthem attacking talent-less photogenic pop stars – which Darr openly credits as having been inspired by Wentz’s girlfriend, Ashlee Simpson.

The storm soon settled (the cease and desist claim was revealed to be a joke), but, needless to say, it caught a number of people’s attention. Ours included. But, more interesting than the non-existent letter, was the two aforementioned male musicians’ shared love for eyeliner (or, as Wentz has been known to refer to it, guyliner).

Over the course of the last 60 weeks, Neurosonic have been touring the globe, promoting their recently released LP, Drama Queen (stops include the Family Values tour, as well as 12 countries in 36 days). All the while, they’ve been testing out the new China Doll Gel Eyeliner from the folks at Napoleon Perdis in every environment possible – from 110 degree heat in California, to subzero temperatures in Saskatchewan, Canada). We sat down with Darr and bandmate, Jacen Ekstrom, in NYC the day before the duo was slated to fly home to talk gel versus pencil, style icons and the biggest drama queen of all. In their own words:

So what do you guys have planned for your brief stay in NYC?
JD: Shopping, definitely.

Speaking of shopping, when did you first come into contact with this gel eyeliner?
JD: The last time we were in New York. It was a gift from the company. We love makeup. And, I’m nothing compared to our guitar player [Troy Healy] whose got the raccoon eyes. He gets up an hour earlier than the rest of us. It’s really cool. You really have to have a steady hand with the brush I’ve realized, but if you’ve got the steady hand you can do really nice straight lines.

And it’s a gel?
JD: Yeah. It’s definitely different. We were used to using pencils and things before, which you just dig on and rub out.

How has it worked on stage?
JE: We wear our coats on stage and we’re under the lights running around and jumping around and we sweat, we bleed. And this has been pretty good.
JD: You need this. Otherwise you look like Alice Cooper.

So you wouldn’t name Alice as a style icon?
JD: I don’t know if I have any style icons. The one thing we don’t want to do is look like everybody else. But we don’t want to feel ugly to accomplish that – we still want to feel really comfortable in what we’re wearing. The number one rule for anything in the band is it’s got to fit good. You can pretty much pull anything off if the fit is good.

Does that relate at all to your music?
JD: It’s separate. The sound definitely influences you in terms of what you think you might look like playing music like that. But we try and break away from that barrier a little bit. You get pigeon-holed. But some people are just like.

What would you call your image?
JD: Neurosonic. We’re comfortable with it. We don’t ever get out of bed and go, ‘gee do you think people are going to like this?’ Fuck that. We like it. If you’re real you’re real, if you’re not people see through it.
JE: I like the idea of not looking like your brother up there – not looking like the soundman. Some bands, you’re like, ‘which guys in the band? Oh, that’s the sound dude? He looks just like the singer.’ I like the idea of…
JD: Stardom! Rock stardom! We all grew up wanting to be fucking Motley Crue or whoever. You knew when those guys walked into a room. That’s what we want. We love that feeling.

Does the eyeliner come into play with that? Perhaps in terms of defining image?
JD: Absolutely.
JE: A little bit more for different guys. Like Troy. He’d eat that if he could. He lives for that shit. Everyone’s got their reason for it. It’s like putting on your superman coat.

Maintaining a look like that can be quite a commitment…
JD: We’re so gung ho on the whole thing that for the entire Family Values Tour it was 100 degrees or more except for two days. We played between 3:30pm and 5:00pm every day in the afternoon. And we wore these coats, we wore eyeliner, hair product, black pants. We wore it the whole set. We’d walk on stage some days you’d throw up, or get dizzy, almost pass out on stage. It’s something that we work really hard to do, and, you know, everybody else goes on after us in shorts. It’s like, give me a fucking break. We’ll show you whose punk rock.

I know you’re big on the black [Onyx], but, do you use any other color eyeliner?
JD: I put red pencil underneath my eye to make it look like I haven’t slept in a week.
JE: White [eyeliner] makes you look like you’re awake too. If you put it right around, it keeps your eyes looking a little bit bigger and you look better.

Who do you think is a bigger drama queen – Ashlee Simpson or Pete Wentz?
JD: Oh, Ashlee for sure.

What about Ashlee or her sister?
JD: I kind of feel sorry for Jessica – she’s so hot, yet all of these guys dump her. There’s got to be something wrong with a girl like that [laughs]. No, I’ve got nothing against any of them. The only thing that scares me is the Pete and Ashlee duet record... just wait and see.

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Candy Road-Test: Papabubble
Handbag Designer Jenny Yuen Satiates Her Sweet Tooth

From Hansel and Gretel’s candy house to Willy Wonka’s sweet-filled factory, candy has long been part of our childhood fantasies and fairy tales. Luckily, Papabubble – a popular Barcelona-born sweet boutique with shops in Amsterdam and Tokyo – now makes that fantasy a reality in New York's Nolita. Opened this fall, Papabubble is the newest addition to the neighborhood’s spread of trendy sweet shops (think Pinkberry, Rice to Riches, and Mariebelle), nestled next door to the area's designer boutiques.

No one seemed better suited to take a first-hand look at the shop than handbag designer Jenny Yuen, whose sunny California disposition and penchant for playful prints made her an obvious subject to try out Nolita’s newest seduction. Not to mention, Papabubble is dangerously close to the designer's apartment. Starting out in the studios of Japanese pop-artist Takashi Murakami before creating her own namesake accessory line– adored by the likes of Sarah Jessica Parker and featured in Teen Vogue, Nylon, and Marie Claire– Yuen’s bags are as crave-able as your favorite confection and could easily be the perfect arm candy. psychoPEDIA brought Yuen to the shop one snowy morning to watch the shop-head and skilled candy crafter, Fiona, make the first fresh batch of candy that day. Armed with a big black puffer and one of her namesake pink handbags, Yuen sampled some treats, confessed to a dessert addiction, and discovered her newest neighborhood haunt:

Do you have a sweet tooth?
Yes, really bad! I like chocolate, lollipops, cake – anything with sugar in it, I’d probably like.

Had you noticed the store before?
I came in here to get my friend a giant lollipop as a birthday present. But, I didn’t come in here earlier for myself, because I knew I’d be here all the time trying everything.

Are your bags inspired by your love for candy?
My spring ‘08 collection was actually inspired by candy, honey, and caramel. There's another great shop down the street where I was sampling all their exotic honeys, so we even made a honeycomb print with honey dripping down.

We try some of the hard candies from the sample jars.

Favorite flavor?
The lavender and lychee ones are really good. The lavender is really relaxing. It reminds me of those lavender eye-pillows.

What do you think about the shop?
It’s like an alchemist’s studio – sort of lab-like. It’s colorful and cute, like it could be a perfumery or something.

If you could design a candy, what would it look like?
Maybe put a high-end logo in there, or make fun of it– like the [Alex & Chloe] Chanel [“Coco is Dead”] logo that’s dripping. High-end logos dripping in candy might be kind of cool. It would be funny, because logos are everywhere.

Fiona pours out the hot sugar, swirls in the color and passion-fruit flavor, stretches the sugar mixture, then moves to crafting the l