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February 10, 2008

Not Your Average Indie Band
MGMT on Bowie and Bucking the Trend

The record industry is in a state of flux and it’s running scared. The standard precedents and operating systems have been all but forgotten and like a dazed fighter in the tenth the industry has no idea which way is up or down and they are just hoping they can make it through. In a panicked state they have resorted to offering huge advances to entice the acts spawned by this new wave to create a reciprocal process of ‘re-branding’. The acts get the cash they need to create and the established labels gain the kudos and potential success of a credible act whose artistic merit and integrity remain unassailable. Of course for every great ‘indeed’ band who have made the transition to major label money worth their salt (The Klaxons, Hot Chip) there are dozens, hundreds, even thousands of acts they get horribly wrong (Hard Fi, Razorlight, etc ad nauseum).

MGMT fall safely into the first bracket. Two, bright, young, talented and savvy New Yorkers whose melodic indie pop references the sonic adventures of Elephant 6 acts such as Olivia Tremor Control, the manic joy shared by Of Montreal or Architecture in Helsinki, the wry bittersweet observation of Stephen Merrit’s Magnetic Fields and the warm orchestrated melody of ‘Canadian Invasion’ acts like Broken Social Scene, Wolf Parade, or Sunset Rubdown. The band was signed by Columbia straight from demo after CMJ last year and their David Fridman (Flaming Lips)-produced debut album ‘Oracular Spectacular’ is due later in 2008. psychoPEDIA spoke with the band, Andrew Vanwyngarden and Ben Goldwasser, outside their first UK show at the tiny Water Rats pub in Kings Cross.

You guys went straight from demo to Columbia. Isn’t that a little like going from the potting shed to the presidential suite?
AV: Nah, not really, their offices are surprisingly boring. We thought that they would be all plush and with fountains and stuff but they are pretty regular.
BG: Yeah we were hoping for marble tables and sushi buffets but it was all real standard.

What made you decide to sign for a major when you are such good friends with bands like Of Montreal and Yeasayer who are all signed to resolutely independent labels?
BG: I know this is probably the answer that every band in the history of the world gives to this question but it’s the truth so whatever. We basically just felt that Columbia offered us the greatest artistic freedom.
AV: We walked in there and just said look, we wanna do this, this and this and they were like sure, whatever you like. We even tried to test them by throwing really outlandish song title and art ideas at them but whatever we suggested they would always be cool with so we decided to just go with it.
BG: People can put way too much store in that whole ‘indie’ credibility thing. I get it and I respect it and I love a lot of those bands you mention, we are good friends with some of them, but music should be judged purely on what come out of the speakers when you put the record on. If we can be in a position where we can tour and play music and make music without having to worry about paying the rent what’s wrong with that? In an ideal world money wouldn’t matter and anyone that wants to should be able to play unrestricted but that is just not how it goes.
AV: Also, it was never really like a big decision to try and sign to a major, it just sort of happened and made sense to us.

Where did the name come from?
AV: It was just a stupid idea we had to try and make Googling us really hard. It is the abbreviation for management, which obviously comes up a lot on the Internet. It worked for a while when no one knew who we were but now if you type in ‘MGMT band’ or whatever it comes straight up so we kinda failed there.

How long have the two of you been playing together?
AV: God, way too long. Since college. We have played with lots of different people but to make what we make it now it really has settled as just the two of us.
BG: We have been friends for years and we have played together in various bands doing different kinds of stuff but it was only when we moved to New York from Connecticut that MGMT kind of turned into what it has become.

After a fallow few years New York seems to be kicking out some good young bands again: Yeasayer, Apache Beat, Telepathe, Effi Briest, Vampire Weekend and so on. Do you feel at all part of any sense of scene?
BG: Well, we are friends with a bunch of those bands and we have played with them all but what makes New York interesting at the moment is that everyone is really doing their own thing, Everyone digs on each others bands but no one is watching and ripping stuff off you know? There are a lot of people doing a bunch of different stuff. No two bands really sound alike. So I guess we are part of a scene in terms of newish bands coming though but a scene in terms of sound? No not really.
AV: It is good right now because you can play on a bill and each band will sound totally different. That’s healthy.

Similarly your sound is pretty wide ranging, how would you describe what you play?
AV: Along with the label thing I can only really give you the answer you will have heard a million times before and that is that above anything else we aim to make great pop music. Making a pop song that is both is interesting and well produced is a challenge in itself.
BG: ‘The Perfect Pop Song’: a worthy quest.

Who has influenced you on your pop path?
BG: So many things but the one that always comes up and that we both agree on heavily is Bowie.

Who would win in a big fight between all of Bowie’s incarnations?
AV: ‘Low’ era Bowie for sure.
BG: He was a dark motherfucker in those days.

~James Knight

Second photo by qlsap143 via Flickr
Third photo by James Parker via Flickr
Fourth photo by Chess Club via Flickr
Fifth photo by VJ Kim
Sixth photo by Ed Thorn

February 08, 2008

Much has been mad of JT Leroy wearing hats and sunglasses. Here, the woman behind the hats and sunglasses is still behind the hats and sunglasses.

First Row: Legionnaire by Jasmin Zorlu for Cassel Goorin
Second Row: Obviously Oblivious RDB, Apparently Arrogant SS
Third Row: Sweet Vendetta
Fourth Row: 88 Special Olive, 88 Special Blue
Fifth Row: Asymmetrical Fisher Girl in Brown & Cream Tweed, Asymmetrical Fisher Girl in Black Suede with Fishskin Leather Band, Lickety Lips WP

All hats by the San Diego Hat Company
All sunglasses by Blinde

February 07, 2008

My Town: Jackson, Wyoming
Snowboarder Travis Rice on Hot Springs & Hitting the Slopes

Travis Rice knows a thing or two about mountain life. Not only did the 25-year-old grow up amidst Jackson, Wyoming’s unsurpassed beauty; he is recognized as one of the world’s best snowboarders. Considering Jackson Hole is a renowned ski/snowboard destination, it’s little surprise the native eventually put his acclaim to use locally. Recently Rice created The Natural Selection—a snowboarding contest focused on Jackson Hole’s primal terrain and picturesque backdrop (as opposed to X-Games-esque manmade half-pipes).

The Natural Selection, which took place this year from January 30th to February 6th, is essentially an extension of Rice’s love of organic snowboarding. And what better a place than Jackson Hole for top professional riders like Nicolas Muller, DCP and Mark Carter to flourish and dribble over gnarly cliffs and snow pillows?

On a recent trip to Rice’s beloved hometown, we enlisted his help as a guide. Over a few shots of sake after a long day of snowboarding, Rice took the time to share with psychoPEDIA why his love of Jackson remains steadfast and how The Natural Selection took shape. In his own words:

When did you first conceptualize the idea for The Natural Selection?
The idea came around three years ago from frustrations of being in contests. I’d fly to Europe for a contest and only be there for a day with terrible weather. The contest side of it, it’s a great social thing. You get to see friends you haven’t seen all year, go to parties and hang with everyone. Snowboarding is a pretty tight community. But, I’ve been competing every year since I was 16. It had gotten repetitive after a while. The Arctic Challenge [professional snowboarder Terje Haakonsen’s event in Norway], however, is badass. That was my inspiration for The Natural Selection. The Arctic Challenge was based around creating the best environment for a rider to flourish…also, the fact that I’m from Jackson (this place just rips), and the fact that the resort has never really been willing to embrace the snowboarding community.

What do you hope this event do will do for Jackson and the mountain?
I want to the outside world to see a snowboarding event focused on the riding. What I’m sharing, through Jackson, is my love for organic snowboarding. I want people to know that there’s so much more to snowboarding.

What's the first place you'd recommend for people visiting Jackson?
Jackson’s a funny place, because there are equal ways to do it—whether you’re high budget or low budget. If you’re high budget then you can just go for it with everything, yet if you’re low budget then there are ways to poach the high budget! There’s this little place called Granite Hot Springs. It’s about 20 minutes south of Jackson and you have to snowmobile in ten miles; you snowmobile in for the day and soak in these hot springs. It is open seven days a week and run by these hippies. They live out there all winter. There are waterfalls surrounding the hot springs with big [snow] pillows all around as well. At five o’clock though, they drain the hot spring pool out to the river and then the next day fresh water gets poured in.

What about where to stay?
You have two options: you can stay directly in town where there’s more affordable lodging. Or, you can stay in the village, which is right next to the resort - it’s way more convenient to go snowboarding and get on the hill. In the village, my favorite place right now is the Hotel Terra, which is incredible. It’s just sick! There are so many places in Jackson that just throw up this rustic front and a lot of older people come to Jackson for that feel with animal carcasses over the fireplace and logs. I grew up here and I think just being in Jackson is raw and rustic enough. I want to stay in a place that has some current flavor and the Hotel Terra does such a great job. Also, they’re promoting a good cause considering they’re the first silver leaf hotel in Wyoming. Everything that they are about is eco-friendly. It’s the best location on hill as well. Walk in and walk out. Great service…everything.

What are some of Jackson's best restaurants?
In town, there’s a place called Teton Thai. Hands down everyone I take there says it’s the best Thai food they’ve ever had. Epic Thai! Another spot is called The Bunnery. If you wake up at noon and need an incredible meal, go to The Bunnery. Other dinner spots I enjoy are Rendezvous Bistro, which is great and Sweetwater is really good too. Jackson is kind of freakish because there are so many good restaurants. If you move out towards the Village, there’s Mizu Sushi, which means water in Japanese. I’ve eaten sushi on both coasts and in Japan as well and it’s the best sushi I’ve ever had! On hill, The Village Café is the jam for daily lunch and morning coffee. Another super secret spot is called Koshu—so good; that place rules.

Jackson has a lot of wealthy inhabitants. What was it like to grow up within that environment?
My parents and most of my parents’ friends came in and bought a lot of land really cheap and I grew up with their offspring here in Jackson. I lived in a solid middle class environment, yet at the same time the upper class got bigger with property and real estate and golf courses constantly coming in. Not to mention, our taxes are great. A lot of people own second homes here purely because of the taxes. That’s pretty much the biggest reason why. Come on, Dick Cheney lives here!

There’s always talk about how Jackson is known for its incredible meat. What’s the deal?
Jackson is definitely known for its meat. It’s Wyoming! Maybe because there’s wild game running around? Seriously, I have about a band of about 150 elk living in my backyard for a month every year. Elk, deer, bison, moose, whatever! They all live right here. Jackson is right next to Yellowstone National park. If you want to come here and eat meat there are a lot great places everywhere.

Any other spots a first-time visitor shouldn’t miss?
We have a core little snowboard shop called Ill 23. It’s really cool. The National Wildlife Art Museum is out here as well. My original plan with this event, I wanted to have a catered dinner at the museum. It’s basically a castle set in stone!

~Jessica McMenamin

Go There:
Mizu Sushi, 3465 North Pines Way (307) 734-5205
Koshu, 200 West Broadway (307) 733-5283

February 06, 2008

Road-Test: Holy Fuck’s Must-have Products
The Toronto Band on Boys-Only Candybars and Synths

For a band that’s been dubbed “Toronto’s evil supergroup,” Holy Fuck is far from frightening. Quite affable actually, the lo-fi electro group—founded in 2004 by Brian Borcherdt and Graham Walsh (both on keyboards and vocals)—has in its many incarnations toured with the likes of Wolf Parade, !!! and Cornelius. Considering the band's eclectic sound and their extensive international travel experience, we figured, who better to ask about their latest obsessions?

While Holy Fuck’s line up and musical accompaniments (instruments are often sourced from trash bins) have varied show-to-show, their reputation for making mesmerizing music has stayed solid. We caught up with the Canadian foursome (Borcherdt, Walsh, Brad Kilpatrick and Matt McQuaid) at Maxwell's in Hoboken, just before they took the stage to open for Super Furry Animals. Here, they offer insight on the products they can't live without.

You guys have done quite a bit of touring, most recently with !!!...
BB: Yeah it was like the question mark versus the exclamation mark. It was like a grammar rodeo.

Were they a lot of fun to tour with?
MM: Definitely. We’ve been lucky we only tour with nice bands.

What’s the number one thing you miss about home when you’re on the road?
GW: Probably our girlfriends.
BB: I miss my cat.
MM: I’m pretty partial to my own bed…
BB: My bed sucks I don’t care.
GW: I’ve got hookups for you. My sister works for the Four Seasons and she can get crazy discounts [on Stearns & Foster.

Aren’t those like $3,000 mattresses?
GW: Yep, only we pay $500! If they do a big order it’s super-cheap.

Have you picked up any particularly interesting products abroad?
MM: I got this slimy, waxy lip stuff [called Lip Therapy] in the UK that’s lasted forever. It comes in a little tube. It’s in a little round tube and it’s Vaseline brand. But I’ve never found it the same way. It has aloe in it.
BB: It’s probably whale…[laughs].
BK: And the Yorkie bars. Yorkie bar: not for girls. There’s a picture of a girl on it with a slash through it.
MM: Maybe that just means they’re no girls in the
BB: It’s not tested on girls. I was eating those magnum chocolate covered chocolate ice cream bars a lot. I was out there in the UK when it was freezing, eating them; our tour manager thought I was crazy.
MM: There’s also a Danish candy called Skipper Skraw that was the tentative title for one of the songs our album. We still call it that sometimes, but we had to name it something else because we didn’t want to get sued by some crazy ...

Out of all of your instruments, what’s your favorite?
BB: Tuba [laugs].
GW: My favorite thing to play is this little synth that I have. A friend gave it to me. I don’t know where it’s from. It’s called the Rhythm 8, and it’s probably this big [gesturing with his hands]. And all the sounds are 8 bit. They sound like a Nintendo. It’s straight out of a video game.
MM: That’s my favorite too.

Do you ever get to play it?
MM: No, no I don’t.

Do you ever buy new instruments?
[They slowly nod in unison.]

Is it true that you “find [instruments] in the trash and plug it in?”
GW: Yeah, we’ll do that too. That’s cool. We’ll pull thing out of the trash… like Bryan’s film synchronizer. It makes wicked sounds.
BB: I stole a butter knife from the kitchen I’m going to use that tonight. I’ll be wielding it around manically. That’s before the show even starts.

You've played some pretty big shows—the Glastonbury festival included. How was that?
BB: Money… and chaotic fun… drunk…
GW: It wasn’t like most festivals cause we were camping so we were roughing it. Plus, it’s just huge. But it was a lot of fun.
BB: I thought we were getting shitty treatment. I was like, ‘I can’t believe they’re making us stay in these tents!’ And then the Who were staying right next to us, getting all upset, the mud was getting all over their outfits. Yea they blew the helicopter budget on Arcade Fire so… it was cool. It was fun meeting them and hanging out.

~Interview by Abbey Braden

February 05, 2008

From Babyshambles to the Erasing of History
Hannah Bays on Pete, PPQ, & the Backlash of Progress

London has long been a city renowned for its eccentrics. From Oscar Wilde to Patrick Wolf, Charlie Chaplin to Billy Childish, it’s much like any other metropolis intertwined with the arts. But what sets London apart from your Berlins and New York’s is its abundance of young eccentrics—one of the most notorious of which being Pete Doherty. In fact, there’s seemingly nothing new to say about the man himself, except perhaps the equally eccentric company he keeps. Most are assumed to have had a negative effect, but in cases like that of London College of Communication graduate Hannah Bays, the opposite is true. It was in this young London-based illustrator (whose passion for Victoriana and love for London are unparalleled) that both Doherty and former bandmate Carlos Barat uncovered a like-minded gem of an artist. They subsequently enlist her help creating artwork for Babyshambles, Dirty Pretty Things and most recently, Libertines' The Best Of: A Time For Heroes. And, her collaborations haven’t stopped there. PPQ, a fledgling clothing label closely associated with the former Libertines, just featured a series of original Bays images on their ‘indie cool’ t-shirts. psychoPEDIA probed Bays after the launch and got her personal insight into the past, present and future:

How did the work for PPQ come about?
I first became acquainted with the duo when their associated record label, 1234 Records, released Babyshambles’ first single. I suppose it was back then they became aware of what I did, and more recently I believe someone recommended me to them. I like the fact that there’s a musical link to the association… it fits nicely with the work I normally do.

What are your aims for the future?
Recently turning 25 has had a profound effect on my ambition. It feels like the dawning of some sort of maturity and I can’t fuck about any more. I feel like I’ve been too lax for too long and now some hard graft is on the cards.

Do you think its harder now than ever for young illustrators to achieve success?
Probably. But it’s never been easy. Ten years ago on choosing GCSE [General Certificate of Secondary Education] options I remember various teacher’s attempts to deter me from art on the grounds it was unstable and a ridiculous pursuit for one with academic ability. As a teenager my mother was banned from doing art other than as a hobby as it wasn’t a serious vocational choice. I think that’s what made her support me in my own decision. I knew it wouldn’t be easy but that’s not the point is it? You’ve got to be true to yourself and hope for the best.

You’ve been described as a ‘cult artist’ how do you feel about this?
I’m not sure where you’ve picked that up from but I’d say it was immensely flattering. Kind of what I’d aim for.

Your work is clearly inspired by the past. Do you ever feel pressured to keep up with the present to adhere to the future?
Uh-uh. There’ll always be a backlash against ‘progress’. With increased computerization it only makes the handcrafted image more poignant in my book.

Can the past ever go out of fashion? And, if it did, what would you do?
History repeats itself. The past is vast to put it mildly. It encompasses everything that has ever gone before and is pretty much all we know as we attempt the present. In that sense it can never stop being the source of inspiration to those who ‘create’. It’s how the past is regurgitated and reinterpreted that matters in keeping things fresh. In terms of my personal work I often retain a certain aesthetic of nostalgia and decay as I’m drawn to things with a sense of history, and how things are created from destruction. I’m more interested delving into an old tin and finding the detritus of past owners than I am perusing the aisles of Ikea. My personal inspiration comes largely from the Victorians. They built my city after all, and now it’s being destroyed in the name of progress (‘luxury’ anyone?) it sickens me. I think there’ll always be revolt against the erasing of history.

Having done artwork for Babyshambles, Dirty Pretty Things and the Libertines who did you prefer musically?
Well I’ll side with the most diplomatic and most people’s opinion and say the Libertines.

Did they give you creative freedom or were there guidelines you had to abide by?
Actually the lack of any guidelines can be a hindrance. Some things I put forward for Babyshambles, Pete didn’t like. But it’s always a last minute thing with him. When you’re not sure what someone wants that can be mighty difficult. When I spent more time with him it came quite naturally – I guess I tapped into the essence of what he was about. But on the other hand Carl and his band pretty much accepted what I gave them. I hope that was because they liked it rather than a respect thing.

Did you personally witness Pete’s fall from grace or was it something you tried to stay out of?
Pete’s fall from grace? I thought he was getting higher.

Do you perceive it as something mystified by the media to make his story more interesting, or was it pretty close to the truth?
Do the red-tops have a commitment to truth, sincerity and real insight? Me think not. Truth is subjective and the media constructs realities - they get what they want. Angle a lens unflatteringly and ‘hey presto’.

Were you at all part of the Libertines gang that got libertine tattooed on them?
I’m not sure any of the girls (and I hasten to add – boys) who got that tattoo were actually in the band’s close group of friends. Though I guess it’s fair to say that the ‘branding’ made them a gang of followers. I wouldn’t put myself in that bracket.

What was your impression of them?
I have no reason to think anything of them. Young people since the dawn of the teenager have always sought a sense of belonging. Any subculture will tell you that. Music can provide this and the tattoo has long been an emblem of unity and tribal affiliation. It makes sense.

~Kevin Soar

Roots Restaurant

This aint HOJO's! Street cred begins ground floor of San Francisco's first and only "green" hotel - The Orchard Garden. It's Cinderella's cozy (56 seats) pumpkin transformed into luxuriant stagecoach; fall squash colors, turret like mirrors, soft coach seating which invite a new gastronomic ritual -- enmeshment into the joyous labor-intensive artistry of Chef Rummer (MC2_). Sustainable, local, organic means nothing without lick your plate and beg for more artistry. Scallop Ceviche with Blood Oranges and Buddha's Hand Oil?! The carpet is low VOC, ready made dropping to ones knees in prayer for more.

Roots Restaurant, 466 Bush Street (at Grant Avenue, in the Orchard Garden Hotel), (415) 659-0349

~Laura Albert

February 04, 2008

Shop Guide: Valentine’s Day
The Dos and Don’ts of Gifting

Valentine’s Day is arguably one of the most difficult holidays to endure…that is, if you’re lucky enough to have procured a date. Truth be told, facing the holiday solo isn’t exactly ideal, but shopping for your significant other (no matter how significant they may be) is never an easy feat. In fact, it can be an especially crucial day for a fledgling relationship.

Women instinctually judge new mates in order to determine if they’ll make a suitable long-term partner. For some, a bad V-day present can go so far as to shatter any hope of a relationship escalating to the next level. And, for some odd reason, men are under the impression that women are happy to receive just about anything for Valentine’s Day. So, if you don’t want to end up on the top of any femme’s shit list this Hallmark holiday, keep reading:

Don’t: Bouquet of Red Roses
Do: Custom Floral or Plant Arrangement
Despite what you may have heard, most women don’t care for red roses. In fact, they typically find them mundane and cliché. So, at the very least, why not consider choosing a less traditional shade? Purple roses signify having fallen in love at first sight, while coral signals desire, and yellow expresses joy and friendship. Better yet, create a customized arrangement of exotic flowers. Fine NYC floral shops like Bloom and Polux Fleuriste specialize in elegant, exotic bouquets. And such a gesture is sure to impress. We recommend opting for an orchid from the former (ideal for those with somewhat of a green thumb), or a custom bouquet from the latter (ask for Paris-bred shop owner Anouchka Levy’s advice and there’s no going wrong).
*Also be sure to check out Aedes Floral Giftwrap, which uses real flowers for its high-end wrapping paper.
Polux Fleuriste, 248 Mott Street, (212) 219-9646

Don’t: Victoria Secret
Do: Unique Lingerie
While Agent Provocateur and Kiki de Montparnasse may be at the top of many women’s wish lists when it comes to lingerie, their provocative styles aren’t for everyone. So, if you’re in need of a selection, why not check out Union Square’s newly opened boutique Journelle? The beautifully decorated shape boasts nearly a dozen different designers; not to mention, if you stop by Tuesday, February 12th from 6-8pm they’ll quench your thirst with bourbon and beer while they help you find the perfect bra/panty set. Other lingerie options of note include Letters of Marque—designed by non-other than Stacey Dash of Clueless fame (the actress played Dee)—and The Lake & Stars—a luxury lingerie line that’s as beautiful as its designers, Nikki Dekker and Maayan Ziberman.

Don’t: Stuffed Animals
Do: Adopt-a-Lovebird
If your Valentine is over the age of seven years old, don’t even think about getting some cutesy stuffed animal. If you are considering gifting a creature, it better be the breathing variety (and one that your giftee is prepared to care for). So, how about adopting a pair of real live lovebirds? This vibrant and colorful species of parrot is famous for its social and affectionate nature. In French their name, “les inseparables” (“inseparables”), describes their caring character. Many believe lovebirds should always have a companion; otherwise they become heartbroken. Not a bad symbolic gift for a serious sweetheart.

Don’t: Generic Jewelry
Do: Unique Jewelry
Women can spot cheap jewels from a mile away. So, unless you’re ready to drop some major cash, opting for a piece from an independent designer is a much cooler choice. Besides, receiving anything wrapped in baby blue Tiffany’s box is a just plain boring. Not sure where to look? Check out downtown-based designers Ryan Kearney and Christine J. Brandt. The former specializes in inimitable gold and silver, gem-embellished animal rings, while the latter creates beautiful, handcrafted wood and gemstone accessories. Or, try something equally unique from Williamsburg’s Lisa Levine, whose Southwestern style pieces and silk and gold-wrapped necklaces are sure to put a smile on any girl’s face. Plus, you’ll score major points for originality.

Don't: Book a Massage for One
Do: Book a Couples' Massage
Sending your sweetie off for a luxurious, relaxing rubdown is no doubt a fantastic gift. But, if you want to do something truly original, why not book a couples’ massage so you’ll never have to leave each other’s side? At Manhattan’s Brigitte Mansfield European Day Spa you can book a couples massage ($280), which also includes individual treatments (reflexology or scalp massage for the men, and a manicure for women). Or, if you’re more the wine before you wind-down type, make an appointment at the Delluva Vinotherapy Day Spa. This Tribeca-based spa utilizes skin care products and treatments derived from the by-products of grapes and winemaking process. To boot, you can sip on the real stuff while indulging in waxing, facials and massage, including one specifically for couples.
*Brigitte Mansfield European Day Spa, 37 Union Square West, (212) 366-0706

Don’t: Pre-packaged Candies
Do: Gourmet/Customized Chocolates
If you're looking to please the palate of your chocoholic lover this Valentine's, a standard box of grocery store chocolates just won't do. Instead, step outside the heart-shaped box, literally, to explore some of the more luxurious options available for this holiday's sweetest gift. For the truly decadent, Debauve & Gallais, the official chocolatier of the French Royal court in the 1800s, meticulously arrange each set of L'Amour Royale Collection. While Meduri World Delights offers boxed tins of mouth-watering, chocolate-covered dried fruits from orchards around the world (from Chinese Yantai peaches and Chilean red raspberries, to Scandinavian lingonberries), John & Kira's offers a more adorable option of hand-crafted "Valentine Lovebugs"– ladybug and bee-shaped, dark chocolates in mint, raspberry, and honey-lavender, packed into special wooden gift boxes. But, if your love likes it simple, opt for a customized bag of M&M's adorned with a personalized message.

~Joanna Kunze

February 01, 2008

New York Fashion Week: Who to Watch
The Next Generation of Designers Packing Staying Power

Navigating Bryant Park during New York’s Mercedes Benz Fashion Week can arguably require as much energy and focus as braving a Barneys Warehouse Sale. Big names abound, but finding a true diamond in the rough is next to impossible. Thus, it’s long been true that editors and fashionistas alike have to search farther than the 42nd street runways to find something truly refreshing.

As New York’s Autumn/Winter 08 Fashion Week is now fully underway, psychoPEDIA is highlighting some of the most surprising, noteworthy young designers at work today. You won’t find them at the tents, or, in some cases, even sending their looks down a runway. But that’s not to say these talents are anything to scoff at. Here, the leaders of the pack:

Telfar
Since 22-year-old Telfar Clement first registered on the NY fashion scene a few seasons back as a model, and then as an assistant at the now defunct menswear house Cloak, his deconstructionist namesake line (launched back in 2004) has become somewhat of a cult-coveted phenomenon. The designer, who’s dressed MIA and whose sport-meets-streetwear designs are sold at avant-garde minded boutiques like Eva and Oak, showed a collection of exoskeleton-inspired looks yesterday at St. Marks Church. Entitled “Urban Jungle,” the show featured jumpsuits, suits and business coat combinations, as well as accessories created in collaboration with Converse, among other pared pieces. And, good news for guys and gals, Telfar’s A/W 08 collection, as always, is unisex.

Liz McClean
Hollywood stylist-turned-designer Liz McClean is making a splash this NY Fashion Week, and it’s not just thanks to her designs and celebrity clientele… though those never hurt. Rather than taking a traditional approach to the presentation of her flow-y, textile-friendly, feminine collection, McClean has instead chosen to exhibit her looks in a gallery setting, with photographs of pieces on friends (some famous, Keri Russell and Maggie Gyllenhaal included, some not) in their natural environment. The show opens February 7th at Openhouse (and is sponsored by Cover Girl), with all featured “models” on site wearing the McClean frock in which they were photographed. Considering the presentation will be less costly and more ecologically friendly than any other runway show, McClean seems to have all of her bases covered.

Jeremy Laing
This 28-year-old, self-taught designer has gained quite a reputation for his breezy, feminine looks. Not bad considering his first fashion project was done “on a whim.” Based in Toronto, Canada (by way of Berlin), Laing honed his patternmaking and design skills watching his mother sew when he was a child and, later, working as an apprentice to Alexander McQueen. Now in his seventh season, Laing’s NY Fashion Week presentation this time around proves especially interesting; his collection was created in collaboration with fellow Canadian (and former Olivier Theyskens associate) Calla Haynes. Expect colorful, "I can’t wait to get my hands on it" panic-inducing pieces.

Built By Wendy: Wendy Mullin
Built by Wendy: Wendy Mullin, best known for her quirky ‘it’ girl loved line, Built by Wendy, is no newcomer to NY Fashion. But that doesn’t mean her appearance at this year’s fashion week is any less anticipated. After a four-year hiatus, Mullin is returning to the catwalk with a slew of celebrity followers and a sough-after musical guest. Specifically, friends (and fans) Parker Posey, Amy Sedaris and Jason Schwartzman were on hand yesterday to cheer on Mullin’s presentation, while her muse, Joanna Newsom, provided a live folk-infused soundtrack. Talk about a comeback.

Jonathan Saunders
After graduating from the famed fashion design program at Central Saint Martins, Scottish-born Jonathan Saunders followed suit with many of classmates, making a sizeable impression on the London fashion scene. But this season, he’s bringing his (often ultra-bright, graphic) womenswear stateside, with his first foray this side of the Atlantic: NY Fashion Week. Considering the strength of his designs, which are currently sold at Bergdorf Goodman, he may take the title of London’s hottest export… that is, until Topshop finally lands in the stateside too. And, one step behind seasoned veterans like Proenza Schouler, and up-and-coming designers like Erin Fetherston and Loeffler Randall, Saunders is rumored to be the next guest designer to team up with Target.

Richard Chai
The acclaimed womenswear designer who’s been garnering acclaim for his sophisticated designs (often outfitted with hand-stitching, bias tapes, French seems and origami tailoring) for several seasons now, is currently shaking things up a bit. Specifically, he’s making his way into menswear. While the move may come as a bit of a shock to all of the femmes who have feverishly followed the designer’s eponymous label, Chai is no stranger to designing for men. Chai cut his designing chops as the former design director at TSE, not to mention he launched Marc by Marc Jacobs' menswear line. And that’s not even taking into consideration Chai’s family connections—his brother, Edward, is co-owner of the influential Manhattan boutique Odin.

~Alisa Gould-Simon