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September 30, 2008

Timothy Moore: The Architecture of Homosexuality
The Australian Mag Editor Talks Hygge, Rainbows, and Bavo Architects

Timothy Moore is a young Australian with a post-post in architecture and work that revolves around “everything buildings.” His work life has serendipitously twisted with his passion to travel, and thus Moore has never stayed anywhere long enough to wear out his welcome. While it may have had to do with growing up a great distance from the rest of the world or simply his innate inquisitive nature, as soon as he could discuss the pros and cons of Dutch "radical architecture,” Moore was stepping onto the next flight to somewhere else. Less up front, however, is his passion for popular culture. Starting with local street press and zines, he has moved on to become the editor of the cool queerzine, They Shoot Homos Don't They? (TSHDT?). Between the somewhat conservatism of architecture and the “no limits” of independent press, Timothy Moore balances both in one easy movement.

psychoPEDIA joined Moore to find out how he mixes his two passions:

Having lived around the world, are there a few specific places that have impacted your life and loves?
Cities like Sydney and Rio can rely on their natural beauty alone to charm me over. For other cities, it’s not so much the consumptive aspects of the city-- you know, the things marketed in the hipster bibles, like the fab café off the tourist track [Cafe Nagel, Amsterdam], or the Picknick club you just have to go to at 4am if you’re in Berlin before doing the Berghain/Bar 25 tandem until 8 am Monday. In the end, I remember relationships I have with the city and the people-- like the cold Prussian bartenders in Berlin, or the aloof Nordic charm of a sober Stockholmare.

Does living any varying cities effect your view on architecture?
Each city is unique with its own relationship to an increasingly complex environment, so, there’s a lot to learn, good and bad. Bad: Rotterdam. I lived in the inner neighborhood of Coolhaven there for six months. Rotterdam was flattened by the Germans in WWII. So the city, known as "Manhattan on the Maas," was rebuilt with wide, open, 1960s urban spaces, and one just gets blown around in the wind between the skyscrapers. It’s also an industrial, working class port city and the home of gabba music. And, from all this, I know that a certain typology will create a certain condition, mixing in all the socio-eco factors. Due to the ground zero – it’s also a haven for architects. Anything is possible, there is no history. It’s also the home of MVRDV and Office for Metropolitan Architecture, and my favorite radicals – BAVO Architects - who have taken advantage of the conditions. It also has one of my favorite markets in Europe – Blaak –complete with a clown costume secondhand stall.

If Rotterdam is the worst, what is the best designed city?
You can’t go past Copenhagen. I lived half an hour from there - in Lund, Sweden - several years ago. It doesn’t have the touristic fanfare of the London skyline but it’s what’s on the inside that counts. The Danish have a word for it, hygge (pronounced whoo-guh) which translates as cosiness. So everything is designed for keeping one warm on the inside. From the meandering pedestrian networks where one falls in love a hundred times a day, to the civic architecture for the people that live there: Larsen's Opera House, PLOT's Maritime Youth Centre or the "Black Diamond" (The Royal Library).

Any other structurally interesting cities?
I also like cities that are not (really) designed. When over one billion people live in non-designed or informal settlements (i.e., favelas), it’s one of the biggest typologies of urbanism. Check out some city edges on Google Earth, like Caracas, Rio, or Lagos. These settlements are formed by their own logic, not by ruling grid lines on the computer screen. There’s a lot one can learn from the ground up. clubs of the world. These people had their own ingenuity, because they had to deal with the fact the government does not recognize them. This brings up unexpected results.

How did you get from working and studying architecture to editing queerzine TSHDT?
While studying architecture, I was writing for different magazines, like VICE and Oyster in Australia. So, it’s a part of my make up to not only make things, but to talk about things.

Do you have to organize time to work between these two seemingly unrelated jobs/careers, or do they somehow collapse into one?
My last architectural job, running a small project team with several consultants to make a gallery space is not dissimilar to being editor of the magazine, in terms of management. The approach is the same, although the content is different. I’m not going to laminate penises onto the facades of buildings. The beauty of architecture is that it gave me an inroad to various disciplines, like physics, engineering, fine art, design, and the ability to move between these; an architect is a jack-of-all-trades, and certainly has less ego than gay males I’ve met in the magazine world.

TSHDT? has a certain sharp and grid like aesthetic to it. Is this due to your architectural influence?
I am anal. Yet, although there is a set of rules to the design of the magazine, they are used generatively, so it all becomes a pretty mess in the end. This analogue process has been influenced by the idea of algorithm in design, which can be witnessed in the architectural studios of: Ocean North, Aranda/Lasch, and R&Sie(n), for example. A good open source example of this method in graphic design is the Scriptographer plug-in for Illustrator.

What do you see in the future for TSHDT?
TSHDT launches issue 005 at the New York Art Book Fair in October 2008, followed by viral parties in Melbourne, Athens, and Berlin. However, as every issue is dedicated to one color of the gay rainbow flag, the next issue – with purple – completes the set. I may be a friend of Dorothy, but I’m so not over the rainbow just yet. I imagine the magazine emerging into something new mid-next year. But no promises. I don’t want to jinx anything.

~Ilirjana Allushaj

September 29, 2008

Shop Guide: Best of David Foster Wallace
Five Must-Reads by the Late Writer

Throughout literary history, names like Hemingway and Plath glamorize the extensive collection of brilliant minds who have taken their own lives. On the September 12, 2008, conjuring another handful of discussions on the link between creativity, mental health, and suicide, one of the most talented young writers of his generation, David Foster Wallace, passed away. Having fought a long battle with depression, sustaining his ability to write with prescription antidepressants and even electroshock therapy, Wallace eventually lost the battle with his mental illness by hanging himself.

Wallace was not just a brilliant wordsmith, stamping fiction and non-fiction with his unique brand of humor, spiraling factual footnotes, and breathless narrative, he was a great mind who explored the human condition, venturing deep into the minds of the subjects that affected his work. Whether he liberally analyzed John McCain’s first presidential race, the forehand of Roger Federer at a Wimbledon final, or even inhabited the difficult minds of his fictional protagonists, it seemed there was no piece of writing he couldn’t turn into a modern marvel.

Whilst psychologists, journalists, literature fans, and international bloggers chatter over the most recent writer’s suicide, psychoPEDIA set out to celebrate Wallace’s finest work by compiling a short list of his top fiction and non-fiction:

Oblivion- "Incarnations of Burned Children"
A short story from his collection Oblivion that documents the panic surrounding the utter vulnerability of seeing your world (your child) suddenly burned, the breathless childlike narrative captures the guilt of being unable to protect your child with unconsciously spiraling sentences that confine complete desperation.

"If you’ve never wept and want to, have a child. Break your heart inside and something will a child is a twangy song the Daddy hears again as if the radio’s lady was almost there with him looking down at what they’ve done, though hours later the Daddy most won’t forgive is how badly he wanted a cigarette right then as they diapered the child as best they could…."

A Supposedly Fun Thing I'll Never Do Again- "Tennis Player Michael Joyce’s Professional Artistry as a Paradigm of Certain Stuff about Choice, Freedom, Discipline, Joy, Grotesquerie and Human Completeness"
Forget the forehand and perfect pose of Roger Federer’s supreme skills, here David Foster Wallace follows another of his passions-- tennis-- and in particular, the fair talents of Michael Joyce. A half-decent amateur himself, Wallace captures with precision the punishing dedication and skill it takes to even compete at a general professional level in his humorous essay collection.

"When Michael Joyce of Los Angeles serves, when he tosses the ball and his face rises to track it, it looks like he’s smiling, but he’s not really smiling – his face’s circumoral muscles are straining with the rest of his body to reach the ball at the top of the toss’s rise."

Consider the Lobster - "Certainly The End of Something Or Other"
In his essay collection Consider the Lobster, Foster Wallace takes on Updike’s protagonist in the novel Toward the End of Time. Updike is taken to sword on the sexist and blunt machismo used in the novel to explain a male's decline while involved in some futuristic apocalypse.

"Updike makes it plain that he views the narrators final impotence as catastrophic, as the ultimate symbol of death itself, and he clearly wants us to mourn it as much as Turnbull does. I am not shocked or offended by this attitude: I mostly just don’t get it. Rampant or flaccid, Ben Turnbull’s unhappiness is obvious right from the novel’s first page. It never once occurs to him, though, that the reason he’s so unhappy is that he’s an asshole."

Consider The Lobster- "Up, Simba"
It seems hard to imagine, but John McCain was once seen as a fair and liberal Republican. In this great essay, commissioned by Rolling Stone and replenished again in Consider the Lobster, David Foster Wallace follows McCain around during his 2000 Republican nomination race, where he pitted his wits against Bush and somehow came cross as human.

"The fact is that John McCain is a genuine hero of the only kind that Vietnam now has to offer, a hero not because of what he did but because of what he suffered – voluntarily, for a Code. This gives him the moral authority both to utter lines about causes beyond self-interest and to expect us, even in this age of Spin and lawyerly cunning, to believe he means them."

Shiny Adidas Tracksuits and The Death of Camp- "Hail the Returning Dragon, Clothed in New Fire"
The bastardized but familiar knight, fair maiden and dragon tale took on a new meaning in the '80s according to Foster Wallace. With AIDS ruining the hard work the kids of the sixties did for promoting sex, Wallace considers the implications of having such an "impediment," and whether it is actually beneficial in understanding what sex actually constitutes to the human.

"There’s a new dragon to face. But facing a dragon doesn’t mean swaggering up to it unarmed and insulting its mum…. Fire is lethal we need it. The key is how we come to the fire."

~Matthew Gilbert

September 27, 2008

Sleepless in Shoreditch
Comanechi's Akiko on Love & Sex

Akiko is a young Japanese punk rocker living in Dalston – London’s creative hub of designers, photographers, writers, and of course, punk bands. Making her start in the legendary club 333 (a dark and dirty hole on Old Street famed for breaking many a band), and wearing nothing but a bikini, a shimmery gold cape and smudged red lipstick, Akiko was screaming at the top of her lungs and writhing around like she was possessed by the devil and Grace Jones. Dividing her band duties between Comanechiand underground screamo bands like PRE and Trencher, she recently started drumming for dreamy new industry love The Big Pink. Akiko can be seen out on many a night enjoying a beer (and a few other things that we’d get in trouble for mentioning) with bands like Klaxons or video director Kinga Burza. But, with spending most of her time rocking out with her many bands, the question is: has she found love yet?

Where are you right now?
I’m waiting for my house mate to get out of the bathroom, because I really need to take a piss.
How exactly would you describe what you do?
I'm saving the world. Seriously, no bullshit…

How do you plan on doing that?
Being me is gonna save people. It's difficult to explain, but I'm giving everyone hope. I'm hoping to fill the hole in people’s souls when they hear my bands.

That’s deep. Do you get a lot of guys from other bands hitting on you?
Deep? Do you think I'm some stupid girl? That questions a bit tricky to answer, cuz I don't wanna get into trouble. I’m already in enough trouble as it is! Yeah, I get boys from other bands hitting on me. It's rock n' roll, you know? Relationships are a weird thing. I don’t judge things or people; what's good or bad, or right and wrong. Some people would get freaked out if I exposed the kind of stuff I've done. [But] I believe in love.

Could you live without sex?
I love your question. Here's my ultimate answer: I couldn't live without good sex. Love me or love fucking me. It would be perfect if I could get both, but if I was with somebody that loves fucking me and I love fucking them and it's fun - then I’d take fucking over love. It's that important.

They say that food is the way to a man’s heart. What does it take to get to yours?
Yeah, I heard that, but I don't know if it's true. What does it take to get to mine? I don't know. I can't tell you. That's kind of like a band going to a label and asking, “Hey, how can my band get released on your record label?,” isn't it? The label can't tell you exactly what you need to do to get signed, you just have to be the right band for the label at that time.

What do you think of the London punk scene at the moment?
There's no London punk scene anymore. It's dull. PRE, Comanechi, Trencher, and some other bands are keeping the scene alive.

What women do you look up to?
Why only women? I'm not a feminist or sexist. I respect Bruce Lee, Yayoi Kusama, and some other Japanese artists like Hiroto Komoto and Taro Okamoto.

What was the last thing that got you so mad that you wanted to cry?
I can't tell you, because it's personal, but I never cry in front of people. Especially not boys. I hate it and not fair to them. It's such a girly thing to do, unless you’re watching a sad film or something. I wanted to cry a couple of hours ago over some love problems, actually. People think I'm a strong bitch, but I'm not. I get upset and hurt, I just never tell people.

~Donald Crunk @ Styleslut

September 25, 2008

My Town: Moscow
Jabagh Kaghado on His Inspirational Adopted City

As most of the western world runs heads into recession, causing general panic amongst the usually smug city boys, the creative and artistic youth of the English speaking West ignore the impending threats and bathe in their bubbles of alcohol and promiscuity-induced ‘experimentalism.’ And in the midst of a rising "Ruski-Bit" youth movement, Moscow also has the much-publicized nouveau money-juggling generation currently enjoying their spoils in Russia’s capital. The current crisis not only reflects the financial problems the world faces in the next few years, but also the general apathy towards it by the young, artistic generation, whose repercussions it will most likely effect. Moscow is similarly undergoing a time of uncertainty and contradictory artistic experimentalism and economic recession: just last week the domino effect hit Russia as its stock market regulator momentarily ceased trading and all seemed to implode on Russia’s earlier predicted immune market.

Photographer Jabagh Kaghado grew up in New Jersey and studied in New York before becoming the assistant to the acclaimed Roxanne Lowit. Since relocating to Moscow and becoming one of the city’s hottest young properties, Kaghado found his photography and documentation of the new Russian youth in great demand, prompting work for big guns such as Vogue and Harpers Bazaar. Following the formation of his own photography and production business Brainstorm Management, he has plunged face-first into the cut-throat world of advertising, taking shots and directing commercials for the likes of MasterCard, Sony Ericsson and Coca-Cola. Kaghado has recently self-published his book MOSKVA RAW, a collection of photographs that documents this new Russian youth movement which won him the honor of being the youngest person to have an exhibition in the Moscow Museum of Modern Art.

In the midst of working on his feature film based on experiences in Moscow and intent on increasing the social awareness of personal problems he’s faced there, psychoPEDIA quizzed the super suave photographer on his current home-town and what he really thinks of this ultra-hyped, glamorous, big spending New Russian youth.

Do you feel this new Moscow generation has become apathetic to the problems of Russian society?
In a way, yes. The youth are so caught up with fashion and trying to be cool that they forget they are part of a bigger picture. Yet, many of them are actually aware and well informed. When you are young, you tend to be self-contained. This luxury lifestyle everyone talks about is not for the youth but it’s for the so-called “New Russians,” and even they are trying to remove themselves from that cheesy “I’m Rich” image to a more hip, relaxed attitude about their wealth.

As someone with a keen eye for the interesting and beautiful, where in Moscow would you go to find these characters?
That is one thing Moscow doesn’t have… districts with specific types of people, like what used to be Alphabet City, Camden Town, Marais, etc. There is no real downtown. But interesting people and beauties can be found all over the place.

Does this apply to artistic and creative areas, too?
Art in general is really thriving now; new galleries are popping up everywhere. People with money are either opening galleries or buying art. The film industry is also growing with bigger budgets. But I believe this is taking away from the Russian cinema characteristic. They are looking more like cheap, badly made Hollywood Blockbuster types with a lot of special effects, explosions, muscular dudes. This is not the direction I like in Russian cinema.

If you owned the keys to the city, where would you most like to shoot?
Moscow has great locations, especially when you are coming from the West. This may sound typical, but I would say the old KGB building.

You wouldn’t need the keys for this, but where do you go to eat most?
Moscow has lots of great places to eat out. Of course, I love my good old cheeseburger, super well done, and that’s at Starlite Diner.

What made you move from NYC to Moscow when so many people are going the other way for opportunities?
I wanted to provide and do something that has not been developed. Yes, Moscow is an old, historical city, but the industry is very young and I wanted to grow with something that is young and genuine. I knew NYC is not a place for experimentation and Moscow was. When you are young, you are always looking for a challenge and Moscow was my challenge.

~Kevin Soar

September 24, 2008

Cosmetics Road-Test: Sophia Lamar's Secrets
Downtown's Party Princess Keeps it Chic & Simple

Sophia Lamar, downtown New York’s essential nightlife personality and model/party promoter extraordinaire, knows a thing or two about looking good. From hosting blow-out bashes with her Misshapes BFFs, sitting front-row at Fashion Week, or being featured in the pages of Vanity Fair and iD, this tall brunette never appears without a flawless face to complement her often outrageous ensemble.

While Lamar has never considered herself an artist— despite the fact that painting her face is a staple of daily ritual— she was recently invited by Terrence Koh to participate in a group show at the Asia Song Society— "I Want a Little Sugar in My Bowl" —with a collage she’d composed using the most unlikely materials: used make-up tissues. Having collected them over the past 18 years, she explains, “I kept the most relevant ones, folded them inside books and boxes. I noticed they were so beautiful, like art in the making.”

While she doesn’t plan to pursue an artistic career, even though her first ever installation sold for a grand, Lamar’s face will continue to be her best canvas. To find out what products are in her palette, psychoPEDIA spoke with Lamar to find out her beauty secrets:

Which single cosmetic product do you use every day?
I don’t use any facial creams, because I only use Retin-A, by prescription. I swear by that. It’s my favorite thing in the world. It takes away all the dead skin from your face and accelerates the birth of new cells and skin. A lot of people freak out when they start using Retin A, but you have to keep using it. The only thing you have to do is moisturize with olive oil. I also buy this wonderful cream in Paris that you can get at any pharmacy, Embryolisse, to make new or dry skin very moist again. You let the new skin form, make it very moist, then go back to Retin A. It’s a cycle.

What's your favorite cosmetic line?
I use a lot of MAC—I really love them.

Favorite place to shop for new products?
The beauty supply store on 14th Street between 5th and 6th Avenue. They sell products for face and hair. They have everything, and it really works.

What do you always carry in your purse emergencies or touch-ups?
The only thing I bring is a lip gloss—MAC in Bare Truth.

Your favorite daytime look products?
I always wear sun block and powder on top to matte the shine. I use 45 or 50 Coppertone. You have to make sure it has the ingredients that are actual sun block. You can buy any brand— Walgreens, Nivea— and don’t have to spend lots of money on sun block.

You’ve said that you can't leave your house without eyebrows, so what do you use on yours?
I’ve been coloring my eyebrows since I was 13. I think eyebrows are the frame of your eyes. Even if you don’t wear mascara or anything else, if you frame your eyes well, it’s what matters. I use a pencil that’s not too oily. If you use a soft, oily pencil, it will run. I paint them, powder them, brush them a little bit, then paint them again. Then I use a shadow that’s a same color as the eyebrows so it looks natural. I buy it from the beauty supply, 2 for a dollar, and they work really well for me.

If you want to do dramatic look for nighttime parties, what do you use?
It depends where I’m going to be. If I’m going to be on stage doing anything in the spotlight, I always use a shimmering shadow at the base of my eyelid. I use MAC Paint, it comes in a small tube. The silver one is really beautiful-- it gives you this “Boom! Show business. I’m here, look at me!” effect.

Favorite foundation?
I love powders and oil-free foundations from NARS, particularly Mont Blanc Oil-Free. For powders, I always choose dark colors. I mix it up with baby powder, because it gives you this really natural look and absorbs the oil.

Lipstick?
The new pinks from MAC are really beautiful. I tend to use less lipstick, because if you paint your eyes—shadow, eyeliner, eyelashes—and then paint your lips, you look too made up. What I do is balance my lips and eyes. I’ll only use something clear, nothing too shocking.

Mascara?
Maybelline Great Lash, because the cheaper they are, the better. It’s only five dollars. When you compare it with a lot of other brands at $25 dollars, you think,”who buys this?”

Makeup remover?
I clean my face with MAC Cleanse Off Oil, and then regular soap and water. It’s the best way, because you take off all the residue.

Best advice to have glowing skin?
Eat right. It’s the most important thing, no matter how many creams or things you put on your face. Drink water, and always clean your face before you go to bed, because that’s when your skin breathes, and you see the results of the previous night.

What type of water is your favorite?
I actually drink water from the tap. In every place, the water tastes different. The water in San Francisco tastes much better than in LA. But when I moved here, the water actually tastes great! People are too panicked about what they drink. I think all bottled waters are from the tap. They say it comes from this spring or that spring, but I’ve been to those places and I don’t see springs anywhere! It’s all marketing, and I guess some people have money to burn.

~Leann Peterson

September 22, 2008

Shop Guide: Home Accessories
Highlights From London's 100% Design

Just in time for the Fall, when hoardes of people are moving into new apartments or dorms and looking for ways to accessorize their living spaces, came the UK's leading contemporary interior design event, recently held in Earls Court London-- 100% Design. Featuring both established and up-and-coming international figures in the industry, this year's event showcased hundreds of exhibitors and over a thousand new product releases. Besides presenting innovative items for the home, office, and outdoors that combine appearance with functionality, the event also featured revolutionary products and materials in sustainability.

Taking out the leg work, psychoPEDIA pilfered through the event's many lines and products to offer some of the best highlights. From custom wallpapers or home organizers, to unique lighting, here are our picks:

Planika- Fire in a Jar
Planika Fires' aim is to bring the age-old spirit of fire together with modern design. Their smokeless design by Christophe Pillet allows indoor fire pieces to stand alone anywhere within or outside the home. With the use of FANOLA liquid, the fire contained within a glass cylinder lights without smoke, smell, ash, or soot. And leaving no residue of any kind, the jar is perfect for an apartment setting-- as it can be inset into a coffee table, fireplace-frame, or on its own totem-- and requires only one open window for ventilation. Using a combination of glassfire technology and concrete, the jar design utilizes the ambiance of primeval fire-- as a setting for communal bonding-- as well as being an elegant sculptural piece.

Noodle Design- Digitally Printed Wallpaper
Taking inspiration from the outdoors, Noodle designs uses photographic images in home wares to enhance an organic feeling in interior design. Through her own photographs taken during travels, award winning designer Sally Hudson’s inspiration comes from bringing what people may be missing out on the outside to the inside. Most known for her digitally-printed lampshades, the concept has since grown to include window blinds and wallpaper. With over 100 designs offered by Noodle Designs, the digitally-printed wallpaper can also be tailor-made with your own images for the ultimate in home customization.

Vitamin Living- I.V. Plant Pot
Many people don't possess the green gene to successfully keep their house plants alive. Luckily, the Vitamin Living I.V Plant Pot takes the guess work out of the upkeep. With a focus on extraordinary designs, Vitamin uses innovative as well as fresh takes on everyday living design. The plant pot comes with an adjustable rod with an I.V attached to the fiber glass pot, using a flow regulator to allow custom settings for the watering rates, which may vary with each plant. While the drip feed provides a unique design aspect, it's also a functional way to know when to re-fill when the bag when the plant is nearly running out of water.

Designchain
Merging style with function, the Designchain is a sculptural shelving product that provides a multitude of storage solutions. New Zealand-based Hucks Design keeps the element of fun in design as well as pushing boundaries in innovation and functionality with this product. Created by Alan Hucks with the concept of a bike chain in mind, it has endless useful options-- as it can be used vertically and horizontally, mounted on a wall or sitting on a flat surface-- to store wine bottles, kitchen supplies, bathroom towels, or even small electronics.

Mathmos Lighting- Airswitch
With two-pronged mission statement, Mathmos focuses on new light technologies with a host of guest designers to design their unique products. Mathmos makes use of Airswitch technology in one of their new products, which uses a sensor to control the on, off, dimmer, and brightness function of the light, making it hassle-free when trying to adjust light settings in the dark. By moving your hand toward to the light vertically, it will dim, and moving away vertically will brighten it. And to switch the light on, you simply wave your hand horizontally, using the same action for turning it off.

Mimuun- Measuring Towel
Mimuun consists of award-winning Korean designers Changduk Kim, Jinsoo Jean and Yougki Hong, who have been exhibiting at international shows since 2006-- inspired by encouraging people to think about happiness, consideration, and the dignity of humans. The Measuring Towel has the dual use of not only drying yourself, but also measuring your body in your most natural state-- straight out of the shower. More of a tongue-in-cheek design, it’s underlying message from the designers is to promote self-love in an image-obsessed world. The use of an old-fashioned measuring tape is also a rebellious attempt against a digitally-obsessed society.

September 21, 2008

Hospitality Service Interruptus
Doug Aitken's Applause Machine

Doug Aitken’s new work in concurrent exhibitions at 303 Gallery’s 22nd and 21st spaces opened September 20 in NYC with an ancillary, yet not readily discernable disjunctive presence to the work’s sadly conspicuous aims, a rather pedagogical term for an artistic rendering, but so warranted in the 21st space’s inaugural exhibition, Migration, part of a 3-part cycle of installations titled, Empire.

That side-show alluded to above addresses intent’s unleashed movement when hospitality services overwhelm talent, not quite the scenario Doug Aitken believed proffered in his 24 plus minute film on three rather sturdy billboards. However, gradations of motel performance are addressed in his film and it acknowledges that hotel advertised self-congratulatory accommodation feats are wide-spread, but the best of any lodging would be compromised by an adolescent thematic and Aiken does provide such.

A romanticized perspective resting on a smudged storyline hinders the film’s singular beauty resulting in disjoined compositions: a moose (assuming I got the animal right, but it was big, too big) in an immaculate motel room; the blatantly unlocked room with its open door policy for the local wilderness inhabitant, rabbits, for instance, or one initially, and then many on two beds: we get it, they procreate. A ventured deer’s presence and subsequent warning upon looking up at mounted antlers that migratory yearning can only go so far.

The rooms are vacant and the land and interiors are uninhabited, but so what. The animals run their course. A fox disregards jig-saw puzzle pieces as such on a bed: symbols run their fragmented tracks. Animals knock phones over, a phone’s red light blinks and alienation wants call waiting. Lamps are overturned, shades find new untenable positions and bulbs glow while the animal in question does its deal whether it be the raccoon in tub or owl traversing across bedspread, releasing an eventual pillow feather snowstorm.

The wilderness intruders have accompanying mysterious music, and the degrees of respective animal’s innate aggressiveness correlates with the music’s vehemence. Not unexpectedly. However, this banal series of transgressed spaces provides its own extraordinary reprieve, a dislocation from its thematic continuum: for instance, that toppled lamp, the shade, the bulb within and then a magnificent “still” of a lit bulb. The film has countless such examples and, therefore, argues against itself: Aiken promotes what the film does not provide, exceptional images, nuanced production stills that have migrated from contextual obstructions, a dressed up beauty.

~Alan Nadler

Introducing Ruski-Bit
The Sound of a New Russian Underground

Something is rearing its neon head in Moscow. While thinking of a Russia from the past, imagine clusters of concrete monstrosities and children in bare feet and rags kicking a can through snow-driven streets as their fathers trudge to work in factories and fields. Or perhaps flashy oligarchs spooning caviar from nubile bodies and having more fun than anyone else in the world.

Think again. This is a New Russia, and with it comes the New Russian Underground– a collective of DJs and promoters are running nights where 1500 people squeeze into 800-person capacity venue’s just to get shit-faced to the sound of typical banging party tunes while still trying to look sexy, all to the sound of acts like Diplo and Filthy Dukes. But this is the New Russian Underground, so of course it wouldn't be complete without some Russian acts.

At the head of the current Russian club scene acts are Zhiguili, a two-piece DJ act, and Yogo Yogo – think the Klaxons, but with songs that start with lyrics such as "we are Russian, from Siberia, we drink vodka every day!" Along with two embryonic nights called OPA-OPA! and Odyssey, the events are run by a core of four promoters and DJs, Roman Mazurenko, Sergey Poydo, Dima Ustinov, and Igor Kompaniets.

The New Russian Underground's popularity has grown steadily due to its commitment to transcending and amalgamating genres and create something new. The four party-goers-in-chief explain, " we are moving into a new direction of space disco, space techno, kraut-rock, art-rock, italo-disco, noir disco and lo-fi," of which they call this futuristic blend "Kosmos," which is becoming popular among young hipsters and Ruski-Bit media dolls."

Eclectic to say the least, these business yet party-minded promoters are the driving force of this new creative movement that embraces very different sounds. OPA-OPA! "keep[s] a good party going" with music from Sepultura, AC/DC, the Whip, and Foals, whereas Odyssey takes on a "truly Ruski-Bit" attitude. While the promoters profess to "hate labels, personally," they describe ‘Ruski-Bit as term that “characterizes a typical Moscow look and period of society's transformation from glamorous narrow-mindedness pregnant with the comfort of 00's, into arbitrariness of individuality-- vulgarized with technology and futurism." In essence, it’s "a very Moscow thing, and you must live here to fully feel it." What they mean by a "Moscow thing," is that, "Ruski-bit has nothing to do with something 'Russian' in general... It's more a Moscow look, and Moscow is a highly cosmopolitan city with many immigrants."

Will Webster, a photographer who has been atttending the parties organized by Mazurenko in an attempt to document the rise of this youth phenomenon, considers it to be "a lot of bright young things who have mentally shaken off lots of the hang ups about their grim old days and are forging ahead doing various interesting things." Meanwhile, Mazurenko is enjoying himself as much as possible, stating, "it's just pure fun to witness the whole city switching from electro to italo, from italo to nu-disco, from nu-disco to something else." Moscow is a city in transition, and these "bright young things" wouldn't have it any other way.

~Chris Harding

September 18, 2008

My Town: Ghent, Belgium
Murielle Schelle on Lingerie, Liberalism, & Throwing Out the Sex Toys

Murielle Schelle is responsible for Belgium’s most feather-ruffling export since Guylian shaped chocolate into little shells. The glamorous madame is the creator of La Fille D'o, a lingerie line as refreshingly honest and open as its creator. With a regard for the all the various wonderful shapes of the human body, La Fille D’o is lingerie that enhances the female form by tickling the curiosity of the mind rather than the unnatural pushing up, pulling in, and pumping out lingerie more suited to the top-shelf glamour model than the everyday working girl.

Schelle’s home is the Belgium city of Ghent-- a medieval city noted for its busy port and fine architecture that plays host to Murielle’s industrious lifestyle, which has not just seen her command the rise of La Fille D’o, but also pen a couple of books [Lingerie and Lollipops and Cross Examination], co-ordinate a handful of successfully sensuous events, gather a host of intrepid and creative like-minded females to create the ‘De Ville Harem girls’ while still having time to fend off most of Ghent’s male population and plan her forthcoming shoe collection.

Intrigued by Schelle’s wonder-world of work, psychoPEDIA joined her on a tour of her hometown, to find out what tickles her fancy, where she goes when the passion takes hold and if liberalism has gone too far:

How would you describe Ghent?
We still have the castle in the city center and De Boekentoren, a building by Henry Van de Velde and we have cobblestone roads and one-way streets that are easy to get into but never to get out. I love Ghent’s social history, but I’m sad people have forgotten we were a working class town. Bars tend to be posh, where they should [instead] be uniting our party creatures from the old days. We have this small community which contains super smart and creative cats, but no one seems to get along with all of them. Divided we fall, right?

Where would you take Betty Page if she were still alive today?
If she were here last year, I’d take her to a shop that’s sadly now close called Bloch. It was a Jewish pastry place where all the decent old ladies went for there afternoon tea. I loved it there! The walls were heavy with stories of whispering gossip and a past filled with rich cream and roasted almonds. She’d love it there! Then I’d take her shopping in my own store Bien Sur. She’d find her happiness there too I guess since most of my stuff was created with her body and attitude in mind!

Where are the most erotic spots to go in Ghent?
I have seen some of the more unexpected places in my town in a different light, but they could be utterly boring to someone else. To name but a few, the dead end street towards the ice skating rink, the side of my car parked in front of my house, the little yacht harbor and then some…

What part of town you could wear your lingerie creations without a raised brow?
That would be the Blaameersen! It’s a man-made pit filled with water. It’s like a poor man’s beach but it’s a super nice hang out in summer! Like the back yard of all this town’s kids. With a huge lake. And a shop that sells ice-cream! And since it carries a pretty high hippie factor you can pretty much wear anything out there.

Most outrageous nightspots?
Vlasmarkt, the last Monday at 11am the last day of our famous Gentse Feesten. That is when you can meet the ghost of you and your friends. Happy ghosts, but still ghosts. It’s an event of ten days of partying, and on the last day… that is when the drama begins. I have seen couples break up or get together or cheat or whatever and it’s all permitted. It’s the perfect excuse for a whole town or generation to come out and play-- hard.

On that note, do you think with our generation’s obsession with sex, have we forgotten about the simple pleasures in life, like a first kiss or romantic river walk?
It’s no longer about the number of times you get laid. We know we are all doing it two or three times a week, but what about quality? A lot of women I know still aren’t really getting off at the sex available to them, which seems surreal considering we have all the toys and therapists we can imagine to come until we cant come anymore.

What’s your solution?
I think it should all get back to basics, and we should provide ourselves with a decent dose of serious kissing at least 3 times a day. I don’t mean no Hollywood make believe. And throwing out the toys and the ghosts that haunt our heads and the how-to books on sex and just ask ourselves one question: what do I like? Forget about everything you learned that day straight after you learned it. And start anew the very next day. I just love that about sex with someone new: the discovery. Being pretentious or thinking you have seen it all is an attitude that should be banned from the bedroom. I prefer to be like a kid (again) in all this debauchery: I know nothing. I am curious. I am willing.

~Kevin Soar

September 17, 2008

Restaurant Road-Test: Matsugen
Is Jean-Georges' New Japanese Thrilling or Underwhelming?

Soba’s a big thing in New York, and one of the best places out there to get it, is Soba-ya. That East Village restaurant is one of the city’s tops for excellent soba at an affordable (if not super-cheap) price. But that’s NOT the restaurant being reviewed here. Instead, because the soba craze overtaking New York is beginning to infiltrate the high-end, psychoPEDIA checked out a new one, called Matsugen. The brand-new restaurant has a top-flight name behind it: Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of the eponymous Central Park restaurant, and others around the city and world.

Soba is homestyle Japanese cuisine; and, to that end, a lot of soba restaurants look homey, a little frayed around the edges maybe, as Soba-ya is, despite its excellent food. But Matsugen, befitting both its Tribeca neighborhood and its star owner – is city-slick all the way… a long, high-polished wood table punctuated by shiny steel and chrome accents. The look is Asian in its combination of simplicity and classic style. As soon as you go in, you feel like you’re entering a quietly fashionable event.

The chefs here are Japan’s Matsushita brothers, entrepreneurs there, which Vongerichten has brought here to oversee the menu. And they’ve brought plenty in their suitcases from Japan, both ingredients and ideas. The menu’s huge, divided into more than a few sections – sushi, tempura, cold soba, hot soba, kamameshi (rice cooked in an earthenware pot), and grilled meat entrees from pork belly to wagyu beef. We selected two pieces of sushi - a red snapper ($8), and sea urchin ($10), a toro scallion roll ($12), the homemade tofu appetizer ($9), and chilled asparagus with sesame sauce ($15). The sushi was just fine – not near Nobu, but certainly good. Same with the toro roll. The tofu was delicious though – fresh, milky, creamy and decadent. Unfortunately, the chilled asparagus was flat and uninspired, with a peanut-buttery taste that was unsophisticated and one-dimensional.

For the main course, we chose two soba entrees – one cold (called “rin”, a delicate, no-husk version, $15), one hot (hot noodles with ebi prawn tempura, $26), along with a simple black cod with miso ($22). The cod was good, if a bit bland, but certainly a quality piece of fish, without too much fishiness. The hot soba was very good, if also a little bland, but the cold one was extremely disappointing. One word: mush. We understand it was listed as a ‘delicate” soba but it was so mushy that the noodles were virtually indistinguishable from each other and it was sort of a salty clump. Extremely upsetting, and a glaring error considering how much good soba there is in New York.

Considering that disappointment, we’re feeling a little taken, especially remembering the restaurant that previously occupied this spot – “66,” Jean-Georges’ failed effort at a five-star Chinese restaurant, where the food was OK but about five times too expensive for what it was. That one burnt out, and this one emulates its raison d’etre – Asian cuisine with the high style and high price (ordering conservatively, we still hit $135 not counting drinks) loudly usurping the power of the food. That’s not a great combo – especially given the fact that we are currently in a recession – so perhaps fewer folks will, quite literally, buy it. While it had its bright spots, Matsugen didn’t rise above pretty good overall. We’ll head back to un-fabulous yet delicious Soba-ya.

~Stephen Milioti


Matsugen, 241 Church St (at Leonard St), phone 212.925.0202

Final Rating:
Taste, 5/10
Looks, 8/10
Value, 3/10

Total, 16/30

September 16, 2008

Beyond McQueen and Marc
Introducing London Fashion Week's Freshest Faces

It's hard not to get bored day after day, reading about what’s on trend, who’s sitting in the front row of whose show and whether or not size zero, fur-wearing 12-year-olds will be able to walk down the catwalk of next fashion week. Quite frankly, who really wants to see another Vivienne Westwood or Marc Jacobs collection that will just be a tweak on the last? But if repetition–- the flogging of a dead horse and the desperate clawing of past “it” designers trying to match their younger more original counterparts-- is your thing, this week is London Fashion Week.

This season will essentially be no different from previous fashion weeks-- bringing the usual dosage of staples such as Alexander McQueen and Paul Smith. But if you are a real fashion-head, what you should really be on the look out for is this year’s generous splattering of next generation, cutting-edge and boundary-breaking young designers. Last year, names like Louise Goldin and Danielle Scutt created the biggest stirs, and like them most of London's pretty young things, will present their S/S 09 collections on schedule. If you really want to find the juiciest new slabs of talent, though, you would do well to look in more unexpected settings during off-kilter shows in clubs or galleries.

psychoPEDIA grants you a little helping hand with our alternative, off schedule hot list for London Fashion Week:

Maaike Mekking for N O W
Since completing a Women's Wear MA at the Royal College of Art, things have gone well for the Dutch designer. Gaining press coverage from prestigious publications such as The Guardian, Style and i-D, Mekking has also worked closely with Alberta Ferretti, Aganovich and Alexander McQueen. Now in her fourth season, the Dutch designer has continued her trademark of updating and reworking classics. For her S/S09 collection, named "The Girl With The Perpetual Nervousness," you should expect nothing less than hand crafted showpieces and surrealistic exploding tutus. The collection is at once directional and elegant, yet has vibrancy that gives it a timeless edge. Inspired by her adopted city of London and urban cityscape, Mekking's collection has been selected to show as part of the newly-formed N O W collective, a platform to support young talent, that is set to launch with an off-schedule show in a gallery at London Fashion Week.

Natascha Stolle for Fashion East
Describing her style as “Clothes for girls who wish they’d been sluts in high school,” Stolle's collection promises to be a hit at this season's Fashion East, mostly due to the fact that we all really do wish we had been sluts in high school. When asked if she belonged to the 'slut-clan' or the wallflowers, she responds: "I wish! All those lost years!" Inspired by the way she dressed as a child, Stolle's playful and colorful designs combine teenage sexuality that aspire’s to be grown-up. Fashion East director Lulu Kennedy discovered Stolle when she presented her graduate collection after finishing her MA at Central St. Martins, complimenting her by saying, “The character she was sending out was someone I could believe in and relate to; the kind of girl I’d be friends with…who’d lend me her clothes!” This is what to expect from her S/S09 collection: wearable designs with a quirky twist. Other Fashion East designers that will be showing are and print master David David.

William Tempest for Fashion Fringe
At only 23, having scored numerous A's in school, and having a pretty baby face and a dazzlingly impressive CV, Tempest is the cutest kid on the block at London Fashion Week. Not only did he work for Giles Deacon while studying at London College of Fashion, he also moved to Paris to work for Jean-Charles de Castelbajac where he designed showpieces for Madonna. Once graduated, his collection was chosen to promote Graduate Fashion Week and in an exhibition at the Royal Academy of Art. In addition, Vogue rated his work “the most exciting collection at this years graduate fashion week.” Back in London, he took the helm of his own label, which he is now launching at Fashion Fringe-– an initiative to support young designers, with Donatella Versace as the competition’s head of jury-– in West Ends Covent Garden. His S/S09 collection is inspired by a trip he made to Eltham Palace in London, a glamorous Art Deco house. The finals will take place during London Fashion Week. And along with Tempest, this year’s fellow finalists are Go By a Secret Path’s, LF Markey, and Sarah Easom.

Mark Fast for On|Off
Fast grew up in the woods in Canada, but fled to London six years ago to find some action and study Fashion Design at Central St Martins. Half a year ago, he finished his MA with a spectacular knitwear based collection for his graduation, which had critics praising him as the new Alexander McQueen. His dark but elegant designs are all handmade and created on a magical machine that he once found in a London charity shop (a sign from heaven, he says). His work lies on one’s body as a second skin, while relying on links with goth culture and blatantly flirting with H&M. As a true craftsman’s label and with a strong belief in anything that goes against fast fashion, Fast's S/S09 is said to be inspired by the eroding and exploding Emerald City, so expect the dark and sexy craftsmanship. Fast will be showing during On|Off, an on schedule initiative that presents new names alongside more established names.

September 15, 2008

Shop Guide: Fall Gadgets
Electronics That Go From Function to Fashion

Now that it’s the season to buckle down and go back to school and work, it’s time to pick up the latest new electronics that offer the best in efficiency and organization for the rest of the year. However, being technologically prepared doesn’t have to equate to being boring, as companies are now developing intelligent, functional devices, but making them aesthetically stylish as well. While it seems new gadgets are released on a daily basis, it can be daunting trying to keep up with what should be on your list of future purchases. psychoPEDIA looks into five innovative products to keep the rest of your year efficient, organized, safe, and sleek:

SAFEGUARD
Personal Pocket Safe ($49.95)
What can be described as a high-security, advanced USB, the Personal Pocket Safe is a PIN-number activated portable record holder. Once connected to a computer, it has files for organizing all your important records– making personal information available from bank accounts, vehicle records, passport and social security number– all safe in this key. Small enough to fit in a pant’s pocket, the Personal Pocket Safe can not only gives immediate access to vital information but can also store others documents and photos. Another safety bonus is that it leaves no trace of your private information on the last computer used.

LaCie Golden Disk ($149.99)
Photo albums are important for preserving sentimental family memories, although years of accumulation can often take up lots of space on your bookshelves. The LaCie Golden Disk is a beautifully designed USB that holds 500GB that can hold thousands photos in one small drive. The high-speed data holder with a 2.0 interface, is an original design by Ora-Ito in a chic liquid gold color that is modern, yet as classic as a leather-bound album. Also, preserving your memories by digitally, rather than risk having photos disintigrate with natural wear and tear over time, will ensure that your important moments last even longer.

PROTECT
Envelope
For many professionals, work on the run is a part of everyday life. Which is why it’s important to make sure you’re keeping your mobile electronics safe from the daily grind. While neoprene laptop bags prevent scratches on the computer, they don’t prevent breakage. The Envelope, designed by highly-acclaimed European designer Christiane Hoegner, is a durable laptop protector. Light and thin as an envelope, it has high-density foam that is used in professional packaging– wrapped with textile on each side to absorb shock– therefore preventing breakage.

HP Laptop with Messenger Bag ($900)
HP is leading the environmentally-friendly pack, promising to do away entirely with boxes, plastic wrapping, and Styrofoam in their products, start with the packaging of their laptops. Available now are HP laptops sold in a messenger-style bag that fits the computer and all its accessories. Although the computer is still protected with bubble wrap, the bag is made of recycled materials and contains no cardboard or molded plastics. With this purchase, you’ll not only be helping to save the environment, but also time and money to find another all-purpose laptop carrier.

ORGANIZE
Load-Ding ($15)
With so many mobile devices utilized daily—from digital cameras to iPods– it’s important to keep them charged and organized. Load-Ding is a German-designed product, that holds that gadget you are charging by cradling the cord and device off the surface the electrical socket is near, so that the cord doesn’t get tangled or tripped over. Great for traveling, it makes a convenient gift idea as comes in red, black and pink, and is specially gift-wrapped. Keeping your gadgets organized and clean, Load-Ding is both a clever and attractive looking accessory for your organizing all your tech devices.

Solar Bonsai Tree
Besides adding a conversation piece to your desk, the Solar Bonsai Tree USB Charger is also an eco-friendly device, using solar powered energy to re-charge your gadgets such as your iPod, cell phone, and camera. Designed by Vivien Muller, this tree contains fifty-four adjustable photovoltaic panels that can be adjusted to get better sun light exposure. Once your gadgets need re-charging, you place the tree in a sun-exposed area and connect your devices, which will then be recharged during the day. With form meeting function, cords can be discreetly tucked under the tree for a tidy appearance and multiple devices can be charged at once.

September 14, 2008

Divided Self of David LaChapelle
Traveling Along the Potholed Road to Social Guilt

David LaChapelle in his exhibition of new work, “Auguries of Innocence,” which opened September 12 in New York City at the Tony Shafrazi Gallery, crashes his artistic vehicle on his way to profundity, via a detoured path strewn with social commentary as original as a gallery viewer’s overheard laudatory statement that LaChapelle’s show “presents the symbolism of modern times.”

Appropriated strategies need evaluative reconsiderations. LaChapelle uses William Blake’s poem’s title, “Auguries of Innocence,” as his show’s reference point to provide a thematic precedent, a validation of artistic worth for his series of juxtaposed incongruities— evil versus innocence; war versus holiness— supposed paradoxes, but actually just the same old scene, which are meant to reconfigure in the viewers an alignment, a shared social/political awakening; however, the side-by-side strategy falters in a swamp of artistic innocence.

Lachapelle’s Holy War sings its song to a lost subtlety, a heavy handedness on corrugated cardboard that needed to ride over to gallery three to borrow the show’s only ostensible editing equipment, a rather large scissor, assuming that automobile repair employees are willing to address, let alone mend, the crashed, jig sawed puzzle auto ruins hanging in Holy War’s proximity. Nevertheless, mechanics might shy from pastiches of auto ruination with titles that hurt, crash an allowance to take all this seriously: High Performance Elegance; Luxurious Power; Boundless Freedom. Taxi.

Holy War is a study in what not to juxtapose. Under Holy lies the war scenario. Crossing the Holy “H” is a gun. Wow. Men die and die. Blood runs its course. Oil rigs have their presence, but all know, men and extraneous infringements know, not to smudge the warrior’s Blackberry. The scissor from gallery two never arrived and, therefore, War, the other half, works untiringly its social commentary on innocence, religion, docility; children’s storybook pop-up simplicities: sheep are a plenty, a symbol here and there. An earnest concern can create artistic tragedy.

And via heaven, as in LaChapelle’s Art in Heaven, near death, suicidal doings are correctable with modern day medical tubing. What is not immediately correctable is a series of ironic social tableaus that make the viewer wonder what car crashed to an even remotely sophisticated intent. Art in Heaven’s electronically functioning scissor is job misassigned. Cut the life support on the already dead.

However, when David LaChapelle allows the artist within to reign and the world’s serious subjects are permitted to rest fallowed, he, as in Small World, can flip any criticism of his current show: Small World in twelve squares defines heaven in art— unless one addresses that poorly chosen title— the sting of social concern.

~Alan Nadler

September 11, 2008

My Town: Southampton, New York
LOLA's Emmett Shine on Skating, Stepford Wives, and Breaking Barriers

New York City clothing brand LOLA, despite having only made its appearance on the scene in 2004, has been over 15 years in the making, as a product of core members and designers Emmett Shine, James Cruickshank, and Alexander Young— childhood friends born and bred in Southampton, New York. Having started out as scraggly teenage skateboarders plagued by boredom, passing the time in makeshift skate parks (from which their moniker evolved), the current twenty-somethings now have a line of shirts and skate decks that sell at boutiques like Charlotte Ronson and Bodega, sported by the likes of celebs from Jay-Z to Lindsay Lohan.

The constantly-expanding lifestyle brand has since grown to a solid collective— including models Suzanne Diaz and Amanda Shine, musicians DJ Vibe and Max Barbaria, and a handful of other multi-genre artists— and even have a recently-established agency, Gin Lane Media, that offers creative consulting to clientele like Rocawear and SeamlessWeb.

With the tourists quickly emptying out of the popular summer vacation destination, psychoPEDIA spoke with Shine— who recently completed a portraiture photography exhibition called Hamptons’ Youth held in Bridgehampton— to get a dose of the local scenery of his often misunderstood hometown:

How is Southampton unlike the image outsiders have?
It’s a small community comparable to Indiana– not what you’d think of as Long Island, removed from the reality of “normal” American life.

Who are the real local community?
There’s a native American reservation in the town–- like the Wild West, with 10-year olds running around in stolen cars and living in dilapidated homes. There’s a huge migrant worker population, from Honduras, Guatemala, and Mexico. There’s an area called North Sea and Springs with extremely dense woods, where all the kids have monster trucks with confederate flags and listen to Lynard Skynard. Then you have Puritan farmers who’ve been there since the 1600s—whose land is amongst the most valuable in the world. We also have a substantial ocean community—a ton of surfers. It’s a rag tag motley crew of races and nationalities. All the places are segregated, but when you grow up there, you’re in small classes where everyone’s friends with everyone.

What’s the most underrated aspect of the area?
The natural beauty— because these places have been stereotyped for the social aspects. There’s a reason Willem de Kooning and Jackson Pollock are out there painting. The pure white light that the East End gets in the winter months is bar none the best for that kind of painting. And Sag Harbor is where a whole population of influential thinkers and artists would write and hang out during the ‘70s.

How did the LOLA collective emerge out of this community?
While everyone was in organized sports, we were skateboarding all over the place when we were 10 yrs old– the equivalent of pink-haired punks in Stepford Wives Land. There were no movie centers, nothing to do, because it caters to an older, affluent summer community that wants peace and quiet in their secondary home. We organized, went to the mayor’s office, and brokered a deal to get a skating area on the outskirts of the village. The abandoned plot of land was called Lola Prentice Memorial Park. And in ’94, what just started and reshaping the landscape, is zoning laws opened up in Southampton, allowing a boom in construction. We went and stole wood from sites and built up a whole skate park from scratch.

Did the Hamptons environment foster your go-getter attitudes?
I think that DIY-mentality of LOLA, in the grander scheme, probably stems from our parents not forcing us to do anything— a laissez-faire type of upbringing. Growing up was like Lord of the Flies—10 guys who hung out every day and night and figured out things on our own.

What are the best skate parks now?
Out there, you find an abandoned house and it becomes the defacto skate spot. Everyone follows suit, and it gets quarantined off. There’s a skate park in Hampton Bay, a multi-million dollar rec center, in direct response to what we put forth. When they shut down Lola, it was a compromise that the town made.

How is the emerging surf scene?
Usually summers aren’t that good for waves. In the wintertime, the waves are really big, so there’s a strong localized surf community. Everyone knows in Montauk, Turtle Cove and Ditch Planes are amongst the five best in the Eastern coast of America. Also, The Bathing Corporation, W Scott Cameron Beach, Sag, and Flies—where nasty flies will eat the shit out of you.

Favorite feeding gounds?
When we were younger, we used to go to IGA and A&P and steal sodas and boxes of crackers and eat them for an entire day, or put our money together and get 20 cheeseburgers from McDonalds. Now, we’re a little more cultured, so it’s fun to explore the nice restaurants. The East End has amazing places to eat— especially Gosman's.

Stores where LOLA’s gang would shop?
We had a store there 2 summers ago, a partnership with Blue & Cream. This summer, these kids started up their own store, L.A.B.L.. And Flying Point is a cool surf shop that we’re doing some marketing stuff with.

Best place to chill during the day?
Southampton Cultural Center, out in the rooftop.

As a small community unto yourselves, do you feel LOLA has had it’s own impact on the town?
We started up with no seed money, and what I’m most proud of is that it’s given a voice to local kids in the Hamptons to pursue their dreams, other than working for dad’s construction company or marrying a high-school sweetheart. We’ve kind of bucked that trend and opened the gates. I go back now, and there are 10 crews with their own T-shirt or skateboard companies. Stuff you would see in London, Toyko, and L.A. is in the Hamptons now.

Best thing about being able to go back home as a retreat from the city?
To be able to say, I live in the city and go out to the Hamptons, is a pretty desirable sentence. I know what’s good about it, and can keep myself protected from the craze it shouldn’t be. The sky is clean and quiet, and the birds are chirping.

~Leann Peterson

September 10, 2008

Accessories Road-Test: Fall Fashion Must-Haves
Insiders Dish Out Their Picks

While this summer saw the heyday of gladiator sandals and wayfarer sunglasses, the fall is sure to usher in an entirely different set of staple pieces. The colder months mean bundling up in layers of clothing, in which accessories become even more essential to accent an ensemble. So whether it's conversation piece jewelry or functional handbags, who better to know the new Fall must-haves than the industry insiders themselves?

With Fashion Week coming to a close, and the temperature swiftly lowering, psychoPEDIA took to the streets to find out what New York's trendsetters can't live without this season:

Lara
Jewelry Designer for Kelacalaq

My essentials for this fall are jewelry pieces with brass (Subversive Brass Cuff, $1105) . Also, different things that are purple—from gloves to fringy bags (Chloe Purple Slouch Bag) and ponchos. I also love this purple Smashbox Photo Finish Lipstick (Enchanting, $22) I got in a gift bag at the Ports 1961 fashion show.


Maxime
Russian PR Manager for Carolina Hererra, Nina Ricci, and Prada

My favorites would be Calvin Klein rings, and Ray Ban glassses, for the moment. For watches, it depends on your budget, but Charmex (Milano Gent) makes great ones for men.


Ariela
Editor at InStyle

I think this fall, the most popular accessories will be a statement necklace or big earrings, like the ones Subversive makes (Cluster Bracelet, $1800). And for a fragrance, Anouk Eau de Toilette ($74) perfume is great for the cooler season.


Elissey
Fashion Director of Citizen K Magazine

During the summer, carrying smaller lighter bags is great. But in the fall and winter, larger bags are more convenient– I love ones from Lanvin. As for shoes, I like Pierre Cardin and Yohji Yamamoto. More generally, fall essentials would be spacious clothing, to feel more comfortable. I’m also really liking futuristic accessories like bags made of plastic or fake leather and transparent sunglasses, like ones from Balenciaga.

Esti
Owner of online retail store, Buy Definition

For shoes, lace-up and rugged boots will be great this fall. I really like the “Crushed” style by Devotte. I also think tie-dyed and hand-dyed scarves will be a big look this fall–- Sunshine & Shadow makes one. And for necklaces, Fenton/Fallon makes great larger, chunky necklaces.

Rochelle
Jewelry Designer for Ralph & Duchess

This fall will be all about outrageous statement jewelry and metal and feather headpieces-– things that aren’t normal for jewelry to be made of. Catherine Holstein’s show had really cute hats, and I also love the Kate Spade mock crocodile gloves. I’m also planning to be wearing my Rick Owens leather jacket.


September 09, 2008

It's All in Your Blood
The New Horoscope

Astrology has long been an integral part of many people’s lives, who live and die by their daily horoscopes. But just as common as the Western habit of someone asking to know the star sign of a new acquaintance, the Asian practice looks to a more medically-based system: blood types.

Other than the fact that you may need your blood type in the rare occasion of an emergency blood transfusion, this Asian belief— since derived from the studies of Japanese professor Furukawa Takeji in 1927— have been a necessary aspect of daily life. The cultural phenomenon that originated in Japan of reading blood types for personality traits and even matching romantic relationships with appropriate blood types is taken as seriously as Astrology, and is believed to be able to determine three of the most important aspects of modern day life: compatibility, career prospects, and diet.

This phenomenon is so ingrained in the lifestyle that there are special products offered for all the different types (from condoms to baby socks) and candidates are even asked for their blood types at job interviews and typecast into respective categories. Solidifying its position in popular culture, the Korean romantic comedy My Boyfriend is Type B follows the blood type theory, following a Type A protagonist whose love interest is an incompatible Type B. And moving to the Western hemisphere, following suit just over ten years ago, even dietician Dr. D’Adama published a New York Times' best-seller Eat Right 4 Your Type, which created a mainstream interest in the connection with blood type and diet, in which Singapore has even opened a My Blood Type Restaurant and Store earlier this year.

Following this developing trend, psychoPEDIA looks into this blood type theory and the traits associated with each:

TYPE A
The sensitive one of the bunch, Type A’s are also passionate and creative. But don’t be quick to write off Type A as the airy fairy kind, as they are perfectionists who are clever and cooperative. This enables them to be great leaders, although they can often become overhwhelmed by stress. Roles such as research and jobs that are reliant on being very meticulous such as careers in electronics will be a type A’s forte. While they are mainly calm and don’t like to take center stage, their worst traits include being extremely picky nature and sometimes overly honest. Type A’s have a tendency to have low stomach acid from birth and should be careful when having too many animal proteins in their diets. To help this, A’s should regularly include digestive enzymes that can be found in dairy. As for friendship or love matches, A’s are most compatible with other A’s and type AB’s.

TYPE B
Type B’s are hard workers, enthusiastic and relentless about getting the job done right. Despite these positive attributes, however, Type B can also be irresponsible, selfish, and arrogant. To balance their qualities a bit, though, they are also prone to empathy and always try to understand someone else’s point of view. Type B’s make excellent friends because they know when to keep in their boundaries, without being confrontational and always being flexible. Suitable jobs for B’s are: detective, artist, journalist, and psychiatrist. In terms of health, this type has a strong immune system, but is prone to diseases like Lupus, MS, and chronic fatigue. Typical B problems like hypoglycemia and imbalanced blood sugar levels can be alleviated with a good diet. Romantically, B’s are most compatible with other B’s and AB’s.

TYPE AB
With characteristics such as being cool, controlled, and rational, this rare blood type is easy to dismiss as the most favorable of them all. Under enormous pressure, Type AB is the last to crack. However, on the opposite end, Type AB can be critical, indecisive, and flaky. Apparently the most fun of the blood types, in orderly-loving Japan, they would once ostracize these types from jobs, as no one wanted to work with AB’s. They could be referred to as the lose cannon or the life of the party, depending on someone’s taste. Jobs in which Type AB’s will excel are public relations, negotiators, attornies, and company managers. While AB”s are known for having strong immunity, stress can have a strongly negative effect. Thus, special care in stress management is needed. With similar needs to A and B (just as A needs dairy in their diets), some type AB’s might also, or sometimes, have none at all, without a happy medium. Perhaps signifying this blood type as the luckiest, appropriate matches for Type AB are every other blood type, including themselves.

TYPE O
The most common blood type O’s are money hungry, relentlessly power-hungry, and ruthless and vain. However, Type O’s are also busy being agreeable, sociable, and optimistic. Using their skills of intuition, focus and self-reliance, they often get their way in situations. As O’s are mostly not in the business of making friends, purely connections, these types are often loners and leaders in occupations such as accounting, business and sales, and politics—as they are always craving to be the center of attention. Extremely confident due to well-developed physiques, O’s don’t worry much about dietary restrictions and eat whatever they want. However, blood circulation in a Type O is often sluggish, which can be corrected with regular one-hour workouts. In relationship terms, O is most compatible with other O’s and type AB.

September 08, 2008

Shop Guide: Collapsible Bikes
Fashion Week's Newest Accessory

Quickly evolving as a must-have accessory for this Fashion Week is not the expected latest handbag or high heels, but collapsible bikes that make commuting easy–- an ideal gadget for models, fashionistas, and the like to get from show to show. Not only have model/actress Joy Bryant and stylist Luis Rodriguez been spotted riding their foldable bikes throughout New York City streets, but even Soho’s popular menswear boutique Odin has placed a shiny Strida in its window display.

So while Fashion Week’s insiders are on board this eco-friendly form of transit, the city is just warming up for a list of bike-centric events, including the Twin Lights Ride (a road tour through Monmouth, New Jersey that ends in a post-ride festival), Bicycle for a Day (to raise awareness of non-gas-powered vehicles), and Bike MS (a charity event for multiple-sclerosis).

So whether you’re gearing up for the next showing in the Bryant Park tents or practicing for a charitable marathon, psychoPEDIA looked into some of the best folding bikes for your buck:

Dahon Speed TR ($1040)
Best for Traveling/Touring
For jetsetters who enjoy exploring foreign settings at their own leisure, the Dahon Speed TR is an ideal touring accessory. This 24- speed chrome bike, which weighs 29 pounds, can be folded down in approximately 30 seconds and easily packed into luggage, or into its own Airporter carrying case for convenient travel (staying under 50 pounds to avoid excess weight charges). The bike’s Schwalbe Big Apple tires help to create a smooth ride even on bumpy surfaces and its 21’’ low gears make uphill and downhill climbs an easy feat. To boot, the Speed TR includes dynamic LED and halogen lights for night rides and a rear rack for carrying luggage or camping gear, making it suitable to ride it up the slopes of the Alps or through the back roads of Paris.

Strida 5.0 ($800)
Lightest
Perhaps the most unique and simple to use of the foldable bike breeds is the Strida 5.0, from British designer Mark Sanders-- uniquely triangular-shaped and offered in a choice of 10 different colors, from a basic silver chrome to fire-engine red—making it a veritable fashion favorite (seen with stylist Luis Rodriguez and carried in men's boutique, Odin). Also, the Kevlar belt-- instead of a typical bike chain-- not only guarantees a smooth and quiet ride, but that designer outfits will not be ruined by grease from lubrication or rust. Not only does the one-speed Strida, with its aluminum frame and alloy hubs and rims, weigh the least of the foldable bikes at 19 pounds, but can be folded in a matter of 5 seconds.

Biomega Boston by Puma ($1158)
Most Durable/Sporty
Biomega, Danish bicycle manufacturers, and PUMA, known for their athletic gear, have collaborated to create a foldable bike model called the Boston—which is already being hailed as the “ultimate urban bike.” Besides being a light 37 pounds, and when folded, measuring less than half of its expanded size, it’s easy to tote on subways for commuting or store in small apartment spaces. However, the most useful urban feature about the Boston is its unique DT wire lock-- integrated into the actual frame of the bike-- which loses its structural integrity if tampered with, making it virtually theft- proof. Combining the features of a BMX bike with the one-speed easy handling for navigating crowded city streets, this bike is durable and perfectly suited for a cramped and hectic cosmopolitan lifestyle.

Mobiky Genius ($699)
Fastest Folding
With developers having spent over two years to perfect the unique and revolutionary mechanisms behind the Mobiky Genius, it’s no wonder that this folding bike can be collapsed more effectively than most of its competitors at a shockingly speedy 3 seconds-- not that this smart bike’s features end there. Other aspects earning this transportation tool its name include a dual chain link, which creates two tire rotations for the effort of one pedal motion, and its adjustable height for riders of almost any age or size. While it’s only suited for light commuting, this little 3-speed, low-maintenance red or green gadget is a favorite with boaters and aviators for its ultra-compact size (that can be easily stowed away into ship decks and airplanes), and women for its sleek French design.

Kent Compact Aluminum Folding Bike ($250)
Most Affordable
While not cutting corners on convenience, the most affordable folding bike is undoubtedly the Kent Compact. Made up of a lightweight aluminum frame and alloy wheels—making it a portable 25 pounds-- the Kent not only fits well into a student’s budget, but also in cramped dorm-room spaces. In addition to having a rack for holding books or groceries, this six-speed bike with 16” wheels includes front and rear linear pull brakes for safe acceleration and breaking in congested city traffic.

September 07, 2008

Tarot by Dante
A Session With Fashion's Favorite Reader

Being a psychic is not a pretty job. Seeing death and destruction while tapping into that invisible chamber in people's minds takes a soft touch. Entering the front room of psychic Dante Sabatino's New York apartment, it has rich purple walls, a velvet curtain, and shelves filled with books on the occult and tiny monkey talisman. Whatever sort of dirt he may uncover about his subjects will be interpreted with a careful eye. As Dante assures, "I do my best to support. I'm an optimistic holistic reader. It's about what the spirit needs to grow."

With 25 years of experience, Dante's interpretation of the cards is grounded. His readings focus on the upcoming six to nine months. This is one reason he has become a favorite of the fashion industry, which relies heavily on thinking ahead to the next season. Dante does not allow sessions to be recorded, but will hand you a pad and pencil. Cards are cut nine times with a new subject for each pile such as: pile two, future consciousness-- things you are aware of, or pile six, my mind-- things you think about and analyze. The information is practical, and good news is followed by Dante taking a moment to look up and say, " Nice. Isn't it?" There are no big surprise moments, and the delivery is steady, wise, and at times specific. After a private reading, psychoPEDIA talked to Sabatino about why he’s fashion favorite and how we can all attempt to tap into our psychic side:

Why do you think you attract fashion industry clients?
I actually went to school for design and have worked in fashion PR. I read designers, production people, trend setters, textile designers, and marketing people. I attract people I can relate to. There's always movement in fashion, and I look at the cards as a form of movement. Fashion design is an applied art, and reading tarot is an applied occult art. A lot of them come to make sure their creative spirit is free.

Why are your readings for the near future as opposed to some who read years ahead?
My reading style is kind of based on your next psychic trend. I read your next season, I don't read your life. When things start to happen, people come back. I have people I've been reading for ten to twelve years that still come every six months.

For a psychic tune up?
Exactly. It's instant gratification. It's New York-- it's here and now. But I also give people path illumination for what's ahead of them. What the truth is will help bring them if they choose to work on a certain areas, where it can lead them down the road.

Would you agree that everyone has some psychic abilities, but it's just a matter of developing it?
It's sort of a talent. And some people are born with a little more talent then others. As we evolve as a species, we return to a more psychic place. But I think it's takes a lot of energy for people to plug into it. I have a whole library of books on how to develop your psychic abilities that I've read and reread.

What are some favorites?
I like older books from the 70's. The Pictorial Key To The Tarot is also a good one. I like the more academic books to develop psychic energy. Tarot cards are meditation tools, so meditation is very important. It's a way of seeing and hearing, a more subtle form of understanding. You can practicing different psychic exercises, especially ones like “who’s going to call today?” Also, dream analysis-- looking at your dreams and seeing how they relate to certain events. Eating healthy and avoiding putting toxins in the body is important to developing psychic abilities. And not having people in your life that drain or stop you from exploring possibilities.

Are there any dangers in tapping into these psychic abilities?
What you see psychically can be very unattractive or very frightening. You have to have a fun element, or it will turn people off and they will never want to look at it again. Prophecy is not an exciting field. You have to be very careful about how you treat your body, because people who enter into occult work can become insane from not taking care of themselves.

What is most important aspect to having a psychic practice?
The main thing about working in this field is it's a service. That is the primary focus and intention-- to heal, help, and clarify by bringing light to a situation. I've been to too many readers myself, and I work on myself and have high ethics. It's always to serve others.

Can you read yourself?
It's like giving yourself a message. I can, but isn't it better when someone else does it?

~Sara Costello

September 04, 2008

My Town: NYC Hotels
Exploring the Fashion Week Favorites

Prepare for the invasion of the well-dressed, as Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week descends upon New York City today-- making it the most high-density town of trend-setters in the world (if not already) for seven action-packed days of shows, parties, and flashing lights. With a flood of models, designers, editors, press, buyers, and party-crashing hopefuls, the question is, where will all the out-of-towners stay?

Fashion's elite are not checking into the Holiday Inn, but at strategic swanky pinpoints around the city. Whether chosen for their amenities or atmosphere, almost to a science, these industry insiders separate into their respective temporary residences, a hotel choice that could be used to define their distinct personalities. psychoPEDIA explores where fashion’s most fabulous are crashing for a week when New York becomes home-away-from-home:

While the younger fashion generation will no doubt opt for their trendier options, the established industry insiders and European fashion heavy-hitters will most likely seek out a more elegant atmosphere. Home to more high-society than hipper-than-thou, one particular staple of high-class for the past 70 years is the The Carlyle—an Upper East Side hotel nestled right on Madison Avenue. Not only has it been the choice amongst countless American presidents and European royalty like the late Princess Diana, but figures like Carine Roitfield also frequent the art-deco style establishment-- which includes 187 comfortably-sized rooms, views of Central Park, and the famed Bemelman’s Bar. And for the others wishing to venture downtown, the Mercer Hotel—an Andre Balazs counterpart to LA’s popular Chateau Marmont, also hosts heavy-hitters right in the heart of SoHo. Despite having a reputation for providing celebrity lovenests celebrities (like the now defunct Jessica Simpson and John Mayer) the guests still enjoy the Mercer for 75 cozy rooms and American Nouveau cuisine offered at its street-level eatery, Mercer Kitchen.

Setting their sights more on the downtown landscape, the younger crowd of starlets and models flock to two locales: The Bowery Hotel in the East Village and the Chelsea-situated The Maritime Hotel From supermodel Agyness Deyn, to actresses Lindsay Lohan and Gwyneth Paltrow, The Bowery brings in an A-list crowd that counts Anjelica Huston and Adrian Brody as regulars. Its patrons are no doubt attracted to its dynamic offerings, starting with a lobby that provides a cozy, private living room atmosphere, while the second floor buzzes with weekly parties and music events, including monthly residencies by different musicians. Similarly, the nautically-themed Maritime, also has the best of both worlds. By day, residents can enjoy views of the Hudson River from their quiet rooms, then party by night at the hotel’s popular Japanese-themed nightclub, Hiro Ballroom, where indie bands and DJs abound.

Needless to say, no-fuss Fashion Editors are fans of the conveniently-located gothic-exterior Bryant Park Hotel in midtown, directly across from the tents where most of the shows are held. Set in the center of all the action, and in close proximity to 5th Avenue Shopping, the 129-room hotel not only hosts many Fashion Week events, but has two bars-- the Cellar Bar and Lobby Bar— as well as five-star dining its in-house restaurant, Koi, where editors can review their notes from each collection. And down in Soho’s Thompson hotel, they don’t just appreciate each room’s Dean and Deluca stocked minibars, but luxuries like the VIP rooftop lounge and Kittichai, where they can dine on authentic Thai cuisine. Also just in time for this season’s Fashion Week, and sure to be another favorite post for editors, is the Thompson’s 140-room location on the Lower East Side.

For press and buyers, many start with one of the most affordable options, the Hudson Hotel in Hell’s Kitchen. This Philippe Starck-designed, 23-story building is set up capsule-style, packing in an almost inconceivable 1000 guest rooms. While rooms come more quaintly-sized than average, Hudson still provides the same comforts—and measures up in areas like their sky terrace on the 15th floor with views of the Hudson, and possibly most distinctive feature, a private indoor park. For those on a higher budget, writers and execs also book themselves into the Meatpacking District’s Hotel Gansevoort, to enjoy a heated rooftop pool, basement G Spa and Lounge, and Japanese restaurant, Ono. While the hotel plans to expand its name with future branches targeted in locations from Las Vegas to London, a sister site is slated to open on Park Avenue South as early as next year. And for final favorites, the sibling hotels of Soho Grand and Tribeca Grand, are two other choices, as these hotels provide ample amenities for the business-minded, and to boot, offer pet-friendly services.

If you’re looking to rub elbows with Hollywood’s movers and shakers, you’d be hard-pressed to not spot them at the Gramercy Park Hotel, or one of NYC’s newest hotspots, The Greenwich Hotel. A long-time favorite amongst Hollywood’s elite, Gramercy Park was not only the chosen site for J Lo and Marc Anthony’s rooftop baby shower, but is a staple for actors such as Sienna Miller, Eva Longoria, and Kate Hudson. Since its renovation in 2003 by hotelier Ian Schrager in collaboration with artist/filmmakerJulian Scnabel, its warm Bohemian décor and cozy Rose and Jade Bars have attracted plenty of A-listers through its doors. And as for the buzzworthy new venture in Tribeca by one of Hollywood’s biggest names, Robert Deniro, the Greenwich Hotel—having only opened in April—is already rumored to be booked solid for the next three years. In addition, the in-house restaurant, Ago, co-owned with film producer Harvey Weinstein, pulls in a crowd of its own to sample its Tuscan cuisine. Including a drawing room, arcade, and two-century old Japanese farmhouse (delivered from Kyoto and reconstructed on site for the hotel’s pool area), Greenwich’s 88-room hotel is especially unique for its usage of mostly reclaimed elements in its construction, an aspect partially attributed to its architect David Rockwell-- and sure to be a hit with the eco-friendly celebrities.



Fashion Week Room Rates:
The Carlyle- Classic Suite, $1135; Deluxe Suite, $1900
Mercer Hotel- Standard, $535
Bowery Hotel- King, $575; Suites, $725-$1200
Maritime Hotel- Standard, $435
Bryant Park Hotel- Standard, $672
60 Thompson- Standard, $702
Soho Grand- Standard, $582
Tribeca Grand- Standard, $556
Hudson Hotel- Standard, $469
Hotel Gansevoort- Standard, $601
Gramercy Park Hotel- Standard, $721
The Greenwich Hotel- Standard, $635; Suite, $1300

September 03, 2008

Road-Test: Tim Hamilton's Playlist Favorites
The Designer on His Musical Inspirations

New York City-based designer Tim Hamilton is undeniably one of fashion’s rising stars. Besides having experience at classic labels like J Crew and Ralph Lauren to his credit, he has also earned two nominations for CFDA’s prestigious Swarovski Award for Menswear in both 2007 and 2008 for his eponymous line. This Iowa native has also had a hand in a series of recent outside projects-- partnering with luxury eyewear designer Linda Farrow for a Special Projects’ sunglass and invited to create a special edition pant for Topman’s Black Trouser designer project, to coincide with the upcoming opening of the chain’s first New York flagship store.

While his past collections have reinvented eras of iconic American sportswear from the past three decades, he cites that his upcoming Spring/Summer season is inspired by the minimalism of artist Frank Stella, flawlessly combining basic hues with an irreverently playful details. The constantly evolving designer, despite being a relative fresh face in the industry, is a name that already equates with meticulous tailoring and flattering men’s silhouettes— establishing his position as a budding staple of fine American menswear.

Not only does Hamilton possess a unique palate for fabrics and silhouettes, but also for music. psychoPEDIA caught up with the designer while preparing for his Spring/Summer showcase this Sunday to find out what’s playing in his iPod:

What did you listen to while preparing for your Spring/Summer collection?
There’s a lot of random music that I play. While I was designing this collection, it was around April. I was listening to Santogold, Sebastian Tellier, Holy Ghost, Digitalism, Cut Copy, Hercules and Love Affair, and Fleet Foxes. Sometimes I make playlists for each month.

Which are your favorites?
Grace Jones, Lou Reed, New Order, Joy Division, Nina Simone, Gary Nuwman, and some old Prince.

Top five in your iPod?
Crystal Castles has been on a lot, [as well as] Cut Copy, Hercules and Love Affair, Pylon, and New Order.

What is the best music to de-stress or wind down?
I love the Fleet Foxes and Sebastian Tellier’s albums, specifically “White Winter Hymnal" by Fleet Foxes and “You Belong” by Hercules and Love Affair. I really like “Tell Me What It’s Worth" by Lightspeed Champion. And there’s a Blue Noise remix of Cut Copy that’s mellow—it’s nice.

Most soothing music to mend a broken heart?
Fleetwood Mac is nice for that.

Best music for love-making?
Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young.. I love “Our House.”

Who is the ultimate musician you'd like to dress?
MGMT, in modern time gypsy dress. I’d keep their style, but give a little more refinement to it.

Musician you need to give a makeover?
Any of those pop indie bands. I would like a go at Prince. Obviously he’s very in control of his look and probably has all of his clothes custom-made and works with a tailor, but it’d be nice to get him in a contemporary world.

Do you switch up your soundtrack drastically to inspire different collections?
No. My music’s just what I like, so it doesn’t affect my drive or creativity. It is what it is.

What music did you choose for your showcase this season?
LCD Soundsystem is going to DJ, and I trust whatever he plays will be great. I love what James [Murphy] does with his music.

What is your one guilty pleasure song?
A Madonna track. I’ve been playing “Give it to Me" a lot in the office. It gets everyone going.

Biggest difference with your upcoming collection from previous seasons?
I feel like it’s really focused. Now that it’s my fourth season, I have a really strong handle on what I’m doing as far as menswear. And I know my customer. I feel with menswear, not too many people like to push it. And I like to push it, as well as bring a newness to something that had felt stale. I feel like I have the balance in my head, where I know how I can push it and keep it steady. I have a solid platform now.

~Leann Peterson

September 02, 2008

New Kids on the Blog
Fashionstas of the Internet

This Friday marks the beginning of New York Fashion Week, where designers will debut their latest collections for the Fall/Winter season.

While most will look to these runways to uncover the industry's upcoming trends and find inspiration for new additions to their wardrobes, others could check out an unlikely batch of young girls who have popped up on the internet-- some as young as 12 years old-- who've started a veritable phenomenon of fashion blogging. Despite their age, these fashion fanatics post on everything from critiques of avant-garde to mainstream designers, to showcasing their own distinct styles that have established their positions as style icons themselves. Some have even garnered enough attention through their posts to be considered legitimate fashion critics, invited to attend shows and sent free clothes to feature on their sites.

psychoPEDIA looks at five stand-out fashionistas that are invading the blogosphere:

Style Bubble
Susanna Lau, aka Susie Bubble, is a UK-based fashion blogger who began her popular site, Style Bubble, over two years ago as a hobby. The 24-year-old petite Brit, via Hong Kong, not only updates her site daily with entries on every fashion genre and subject-- from the best local boutiques and vintage shops, to commentary on ad campaigns, editorials, collections, and even store window displays-- but has also become somewhat of a fashion icon, posting photographs of herself wearing favorite new styles (or those she covets from a dressing room). With a keen eye for budding industry trends, from couture to the commercial, she's now become a legitimate fashion critic, even invited to designer shows from Chanel to YSL. Having quickly taken her site from a hobby to one of the 50 top blogs on the internet (receiving approximately 10,000 visitors per day), she's also earned a spot as Commissioning Editor at Dazed & Confused's online publication, Dazed Digital. And with a distinct personal style, which cleverly mixes high and low-end garments, that has garnered the attention of many fashion photogs like FaceHunter, she has even inspired a spin-off site, Style Bubble Daily Wear, to document her day-to-day ensembles.

Fashion Toast
Mentioning early on in her blog she use to be a clothing store manager, 25-year-old old Rumi Neely of Fashion Toast has come a long way from her days in retail. Starting her site as an off-spin of her popular Ebay store, Treasure Chest Vintage, her blog’s fame quickly escalated. Rumi’s blog now consists of a regular photo journal of her high-end fashion inspired ensembles, accompanied by witty musings on her life and love of fashion. Soon after, she was featured on WhoWhatWear Daily as a MySpace muse, and due to her rise in popularity, was then offered an Assistant Fashion Editor’s job and regales in her newfound career adventures on her blog-– all the while keeping readers diligently informed of the outfits she sports. To add to her success, Rumi has also been featured in Teen Vogue, and clothing labels like RVCA and American Apparel now send her free clothes to showcase on her one-year-old blog-- making her one of the toast of fashion blog town.

Childhood Flames
Citing designers Alexander Wang, Rick Owens, and Christopher Kane as her favorite designers, not to mention Chloe Sevigny and Charlotte Gainsbourg as style inspirations, given her refined fashion palate, it’s only natural that Camille maintains her own fashion blog-- Childhood Flames. What is surprising, however, is that Camille is only 15-years-old. Her blog contains regular updates on magazine editorials, runway looks, and inspirations from her icons. She then translates her references to her own wardrobe with homemade versions, chain store replicas of designer pieces, and a select few actual designer pieces-- photographed by her mother in what appears to be her own living room. Having only began Childhood Flames this March, the Portland-based blogger has already gained the attention of Teen Vogue as well as fashion connoisseurs twice her age.

Style Rookie
Tavi Gevinson, the face behind the budding fashion blog, Style Rookie, is a mere 12-years-old-– although her posts would suggest otherwise. While most teenage girls are shopping at the local mall and scribbling in their diaries, this young fashion fanatic who started her blog less than 6 months ago, is posting about designers like Chris Benz and Matthew Williamson, photographing herself in her favorite thrift-store finds and parents' vintage clothing, and referencing indie music and '80s films that pre-date her lifetime. With a maturity that registers far beyond her age, Tavi even found herself plagued with a few negative critics, who questioned the truth behind the actual age of this precocious personality after she gaining notoriety through feature interviews in Associated Press and the New York Times. Brushing the comments off her shoulders, Tavi took a brief hiatus before returning to her online fashion adventures and updates her blog frequently, while still attending junior high school.

Chictopia
Lulu Chang began her rise to blog fame through her own self-styled fashion diary, Everybody is Ugly. Only having started her blog earlier this year, like her blogging contemporaries, Chang’s site is not only showcases her own fashion sense accompanied by her stories of triumphs and failures in dating, but critiques the bad fashion of strangers-- even posting photographs of said crimes on her blog. When not blogging, Lulu maintains a day job as an arts editor. But now expanded her ventures beyond the blog Everybody is Ugly, she recently combined it with another online project, Chictopia-- a fashion networking site for everyday boys and girls of all body types and styles to feature their own fashion and receive feedback from their peers.