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November 30, 2008

Gift Guide: Men's Scarves
Our Fave Neck-Wrappers for Guys

The scarf is one of those holiday gifts that's extremely common, but also a huge risk for yawn inducement if you get the wrong one. If you're going to give a scarf to a guy - or you're a guy buying one for yourself, to pepper up your accessory drawer - it's integral that you think out of the box, and find something that reveals your signature style, rather than just coiling around your neck. (It's kind of like sweaters, which we detailed in a recent story - you have to do a little editing to get something out of the ordinary.) Here, we did the editing for you: Below are seven scarves, in all price ranges, that'll set a guy apart. (And by the way, ladies, these are all pretty much unisex, i.e., if you buy one for him you can borrow it whenever you want.)

Lucien Pellat-Finet Skull Scarf ($625)
This is no ordinary scarf – mostly due to its other-worldly fabrication. Lucien Pellat-Finet is all about cashmere, and the finest kind at that – incredibly light and soft, yet strong and well-constructed one-ply fabric. But besides that fabric, the design’s a big draw – it’s done in a dark cherry red, with a really cool black skull print that’s one of Pellat-Finet’s design signatures. It’s ultra-luxurious and cheeky at once, a true fashion feat.

Loro Piana Winston Mink Scarf ($4,655)
Available at Neiman Marcus and Loro Piana, NYC
Loro Piana is one of those brands that quite simply defines luxury – and this breathtaking piece has the distinction of being one of the world’s finest men’s scarves. Rendered in a rich dark brown dyed mink fur from Denmark, and made in Italy, it features a cashmere inner lining and a 59-inch length. It’s a scarf that’s not just an accessory, but the center of your wardrobe.

Antik Batik Flits Scarf ($202)
This one differentiates itself by design: from afar it’s a restrained grayish scarf but up close it’s hugely detailed: each of the two ends has a print loaded with ebullient swirling dots, and the middle is done in a lotus-flower pattern. On the surface it sounds busy, but it’s all done in a neutral color palette that makes the aesthetic on this lightweight wool scarf work perfectly.

Tod's Miky Striped Scarf ($445)
The collegiate striped-scarf thing can look amateurish if done in a cheap fabrication or pattern. Tod’s has one of the most elegant striped scarves we’ve seen, with a subtle fringe at the end, and a great color combination of soft and dark grays, with a purple that’s fun but not too out-there. And the cashmere it’s made of is both ultra-warm and supremely soft.

3.1 Phillip Lim "Scharf" ($375)
What do you get when you cross a shawl with a scarf? That’s right – a Scharf. Phillip Lim’s ultra-creative design (for his line 3.1) has almost turtleneck-like coverage around the neck – ideal on windy days – and a scarf extension from there, which you just slit through and wrap around. It adds up to one really versatile piece. The gray mélange cashmere, rolled edges and engraved P.L. make it a true luxury item, to boot.

American Apparel Sheer Jersey Scarf ($15)
Not only is this one of the best under-$20 gifts out there, this one fills the need on those days where the temp hovers around 40 degrees – too warm for a wool scarf, but too chilly for no scarf. Best of all, it comes in over 30 colors, as many hues as American Apparel’s basic 2001 T-shirts boast. At this price, you can get someone their two or three favorite colors. It’s a modern classic that everyone can afford.

Ralph Lauren Cashmere Cable Knit Scarf ($325)
Honestly, a chunky cashmere cable knit is as good for the soul as six psychotherapy sessions. When done by Ralph Lauren in your choice of three insanely beautiful colors – cool emerald, azure blue or plum – you have a classic piece that never went out of style, and will always stay in fashion. It’s a smart old-money-set type of choice, which works well on all ages.

~Stephen Milioti

November 27, 2008

My Town: Dallas, Texas
Priestess NYC Designer Cody Ross on Thinking Globally & Living Large

Cody Ross has no hesitation welcoming guests to his West Village fortress of madness— joint home and studio workspace— where he’s hosted celebrities like Cassie and M.I.A., and fashion-industry insiders. Filled with knick-knacks from severed prosthetic hands, and porcelain statues of E.T., to stuffed skulls and Hello Kitty pillows, his surroundings fuel the quirky gears that constantly turn in his head. But amidst the kitschy chaos, unlike the mad fashion scientist he appears to be (with bright blonde upturned bangs and piercing green eyes), Ross is the bright mind behind cult fashion label Priestess NYC, a line of edgy yet elegant streetwear which flawlessly blends classic silhouettes with a touch of his own eccentricity.

Now in the middle of designing his fourth collection, the 30-year-old’s distinct aesthetic— a happy medium between avant-garde and commercial, self-described as “not too Jeremy Scott, and not too BCBG”— has garnered an underground following, as well as the attention of such contrasting celebrity personalities like Bjork and Tyra Banks.

This native Texan (and former financier-turned-designer) has no trace of a Southern drawl, but he can whip out impressive Mandarin Chinese skills with ease, not only denoting his international lifestyle, but his forward-thinking dedication to a global fashion point of view. True to that, his womenswear and accessories have made their way to 55 stores worldwide, from NYC’s Neiman Marcus and London’s Harvey Nichols to boutiques in China, Prague, and Dubai.

Amidst tchotchkes, inspiration boards, and fat-free biscotti, psychoPEDIA joined Ross to talk about his roots in punk rock and cowboys, and find out if everything really is bigger in Texas:

How have you seen Dallas change since you were a kid?
It’s turning into a rich melting pot. The demographic is shifting. It’s dynamic, and people are embracing all kinds of references and ethnicities. It’s geographically in the center [of the US], so you get spill-over from the East and West coasts, and it becomes a hybrid of those ideas. But it’s not super-pronounced, because it still is Texas. It’s not a London, Tokyo, or New York.

What fashions do you associate with Dallas?
There’s a cowboy, Wild West frontiersmen aesthetic— the chaps, spurs, cowboy boots. It’s like wearing a trench coat when it rains in New York. It’s institutionalized dressing there— the whole rodeo theme. Even in Dallas, a thriving metropolis where people are urban, sophisticated, and well-off, they’re still very cowboy-esque.

Did you ever get into the hometown style?
Sometimes I wear cowboy boots, but only when I go back to Dallas!

If not gun-slinging cowboys, what hometown influences set the foundation for your fashion sense?
I got into skateboarding when I was young, which morphed into punk rock. Punk rock morphed into anarchy, chaos, pierce everything, and die your hair pink. Then that got me into Malcolm McLaren, the Sex Pistols, Vivienne Westwood. I became interested in a whole international perspective from the point of punk rock.

Was there a big punk rock scene there?
You always have people who resist in the sub-cultural elements. When you’re in a place that conventional, and it’s so traditional and powerful, you try to accentuate what you’re doing in terms of rebelling.

How true is the slogan, “Everything’s bigger in Texas?”
In terms of consumer goods and food portions, that’s very accurate. Cars are definitely bigger, driveways are longer, and houses are gargantuan. Everything seems to be a little bit bigger.

How would you describe the city’s character?
It’s a generally ambitious town without the global perspective— very American-centric.

There’s a new Dallas slogan, “Live large. Think big.” Did you feel it always had this ambitious attitude?
Everyone in Texas aspires to be quite big. There are many huge companies headquartered in Texas, so they’re already thinking big in terms of business. I think that mentality was amongst all my friends. But after doing their stints in Europe or Asia, they went right back to Dallas, because they felt at home with those roots.

Are there core Texas values that helped you succeed in a global way?
Being honest is really important there, relative to other parts of the world. Generally, everyone I’ve encountered in Texas has a lot of integrity and character. Texans are pretty straightforward and transparent and will state their aims. If they say they’re going to do something, they’re consistent. There’s a community feel to Texas values.

Do you still incorporate Dallas influences into your designs?
Dallas is the very meat-and-potatoes-style American frontiersmen. It’s kind of wild in that sense, which I incorporate a bit of in my aesthetic, but my work is more about an attitude.

Having lived all over the world, what’s the biggest thing you miss about Dallas?
The grandiosity. Living in small compressed cities where density is so high, you’re bumping into people all the time. Texas is so spacious and very clean. You feel like more of an individual, because you’re not constantly interacting with other people. If I wanted to make a family, it’s ideal. It’s a very comfortable lifestyle.

~Leann Peterson

November 26, 2008

Spa Road-Test: Mandarin Oriental's NYC Marathon Pedicure
The Fab Foot Fix Puts Pedi on a Higher Plane

“Welcome! We’ve been expecting you,” said the employee at the front desk of the Spa at Mandarin Oriental, located in the top-flight New York hotel. The woman’s tone was genuine, almost as if her whole day was geared specifically toward anticipating my visit. Then she emerged from behind the counter with a wooden tray. “You can put your socks and shoes here,” she said, and offered me slippers to change into. As I did that, she imperceptibly bounced to the back of the spa and was instantly back to greet me with a cup of delicious red berry-flavored tea.

The incredible part was that I wasn’t even booking a massage – just a pedicure. But at the Mandarin Oriental Spa, no treatment is a plain deal. The one I was about to get is called the NYC Marathon Pedicure – it’s a new addition to the hotel’s spa menu, designed to coincide with the recent 26-mile marathon (which I very much did not run), and be a suitable foot treatment to sporting types who are active on their feet -- or just shop a lot. It will likely live long, as an 80-minute treatment that’s basically the more luxurious pedicure you can get anywhere in the city.

I was led in my slippers to a beautiful wood-paneled pedicure room by my therapist, Cecilia, who held my hand as I stepped up into a comfy chair with a basin underneath that she filled with hot water and green menthol salts. The bubbly fizz was rejuvenating and enlivening. Next to me were fresh flowers and bowls of little snacks – banana chips, dried cherries, all good healthy stuff.

Being 80 minutes, it’s obvious this treatment was to have many steps. First, Cecilia worked on filing the calluses off my feet, which in itself radically transformed them from gnarly man-feet to pretty model peds. Then she worked on the cuticles, pushing them back and smoothing them out.

Next step: the product. This treatment makes use of GEHWOL products – they’re from Germany, and they’re hard-core, originally designed to remedy soldiers’ feet in WWII. First, she rubbed on a Callous Softener, then a Bamboo Peel & Scrub, which sloughed off the dead skin and made my feet feel half as light as they used to. After a thorough scrub, she wrapped them in hot towels and plastic wrap. I sat for 10 minutes staring at my mummified feet, feeling warm and content.

Cecilia unwrapped my feet, and the final step was the Vitality Cream, which she rubbed on my feet and legs. The minty scent was refreshing, and it felt tingly. “You should do this every six weeks,” she said, as she buffed my nails to a natural shine, and I felt like a supermodel (albeit a slightly hairy one).

At $150, this treatment isn’t cheap, but think of it this way: it’s way more involved than a regular pedicure, and a good option for people who don’t want to sit down in a streetside nail salon and get poked and prodded with metal implements of unknown origin. You get the general feeling of a massage-type treatment, without having to get naked and lie on your stomach. And the best part – after the treatment, I was allowed to linger in the spa, where I took advantage of the “heat experience” – a rejuvenating combination of hot jet tub, crystal steam room, and a shower with varied temperature buttons and pulsating settings, alternating cool and hot, for a true relaxing, naturally detoxing effect. This “heat experience” alone puts this spa easily in the running for the nomenclature of New York’s best spa. And it’s all grandly set 35 floors above Central Park, off the hotel’s lobby. And, note: the above treatment is completely suitable for men, as much as for women – there’s nothing frilly or feminine about it.

When I came back to the front desk, my shoes were presented back to me on the wood tray, and I had the always-unfortunate experience of having to go back out into the real world.

~Stephen Milioti

Spa at the Mandarin Oriental, New York
80 W 60th St, 35th Floor
(212) 805-8800


Rating:
Looks- 9/10
Quality- 10/10
Service- 9.5/10
Value- 7/10

Total ... 35.5/40

November 25, 2008

Fashion's New Garde
The New Muses Influencing Today's Fashion Icons

Muses have long played an essential role in the creative process of a fashion designer. From Yves Saint Laurent and Catherine Deneuve, Hubert de Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn, to the decidedly more contemporary Alexander Wang and Erin Wasson, sartorial sirens are often as imperative to a collection’s evolution as color palette or cultural inspiration. And this is exactly the reason that the Metropolitan Museum’s annual star-studded Costume Institute Gala has selected as its 2009 theme, "Model as Muse: Embodying Fashion." In light of our anticipation of the event, which takes place in May, we figured it prime time to address the new garde of muses currently rocking the fashion world’s boat. They’ve been termed trendsetters by many a fashion blog, and they’ve collectively caught the eye of Donna Karan, Karl Lagerfeld, and Alexander McQueen. Without further ado, fashion’s new muses:

Leila Moss, Musician
As lead singer of the rock group The Duke Spirit, Moss has, since the band’s inception, been following in the footsteps of another blond, Brit fashion icon with the same last name and causing quite a sartorial stir all over the UK. And fans aren’t the only ones taking note of Moss’ unique Debbie Harry-meets-Patty Smith fashion sense (her wardrobe consists of tuxedo jackets with rolled up sleeves, skinny jeans, flat boots and a come-hither, libido-igniting stare). In fact, Alexander McQueen channeled the frontwoman as inspiration for his debut Designer Collaboration collection for Target, out this spring. The punk rock-infused SS09 line includes a poplin black trench, a men’s wear-inspired tux blazer and a t-shirt silk-screened with the lead singer’s likeness—all of which we’re sure Moss would approve.

Daisy Lowe, Model
With campaigns for everyone from Burberry and Agent Provocateur to Converse under her belt, not to mention already having walked the catwalk for Chanel, Henry Holland, and Vivienne Westwood, this 19-year-old is well on her way to becoming a fashion mega-force. Daughter of rocker-turned-fashion designer Pearl Lowe and Gavin Rossdale, this girl-about-town has been romantically linked to Mark Ronson, and is often photographed with fellow new muse Peaches Geldof. And, considering Lowe’s slender yet curvaceous figure has led the likes of New York Magazine to anoint her the catalyst of the end the too-skinny model trend, there’s plenty of evidence this barely legal brunette will be making waves in the fashion world for some time to come.

Harley Viera-Newton, Student and Musician
Considering Harley Viera-Newton has already completed an internship with Mario Testino, plays bass in Lissy Trullie’s much-hyped band, not to mention takes a full class-load in Egyptology at New York University, she’s far from just another pretty face. But, that’s not to say her good looks have gone overlooked by a fair number of fashion heavyweights. In fact, the 20-year-old London-bred brunette has just inked a deal to star in DKNY’s SS09 campaign, which will be shot by the king of street style himself, Scott Schuman. As long as her studies don’t land her digging in Luxor for the indefinite future, expect to see a lot more of this rising fashion star.

Peaches Geldof, Journalist and Sometimes Designer
To say that in all Peaches Geldof’s 19 years she has been prolific seems an understatement. Back in 2005 the scion of Bob Geldof and Paula Yates penned her own reality TV program in which she starred; she then worked as a guest reporter for various media outlets. But, more recently, the pint-sized trendsetter has dived in headfirst to the fashion world. While just one year ago Geldof made her catwalk debut for PPQ, this fall welcomed the debut of her first ever capsule collection for the British brand. The newlywed and star of a recent MTV documentary is also an active fashion contributor to Nylon and is sure to continue extending her inimitable sartorial influence over the industry in years to come.

Alice Dellal, Model
This half Brazilian, half British 20-year-old made a splash in the fashion industry when, recently, she replaced model Erin Wasson as muse to fashion designer Alexander Wang (who won CFDA/Vogue’s Fashion Fund last week, and true to form, chose Dellal as his date). With her long, dirty blond locks half shaven, a nose ring and piercing wide, typically kohl-lined eyes, Dellal exudes a punk rock sensibility and aesthetic, but not without an undeniable element of elegance. Her looks can in large part be attributed to her mother, Andrea Dellal, a former model. Considering the beauty has already starred opposite Helena Christensen in a campaign for Agent Provocateur and graced the pages of French Vogue (not to mention she’s survived her own cocaine scandal à la Kate Moss, the heiress is poised to become a frequent fixture on the fashion scene.

Tallulah Harlech, Actress
This brunette beauty is quite literally following in the footsteps of her mother, Lady Amanda Harlech—a longtime muse to Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, and, before that, John Galliano. An aspiring thespian, the younger Harlech recently starred alongside her mother in a film directed by Karl Lagerfeld, which celebrates the anniversary of Chanel. Slated to debut just before Chanel’s pre-fall presentation in Moscow next month, the silent film features the young Harlech as a hat saleswoman. While the young actress is focusing on her theater and film work for the time being, there’s no doubt she’ll continue dipping in to the sartorial pool when the right opportunity arises.

~Alisa Gould-Simon

Meet the Locals
Jim Denevan's Homegrown Food Events Take Off

Many New Yorkers’ kitchens are often barren, even dust-covered – due to the fact that we all eat out so much. With the amount of food we consume in restaurants, it’s odd that we don’t often think about where it actually comes from. But with tighter budgets, home cooking is making a comeback. And locally grown food from city farms may be one of the most efficient ways to stay on a budget while meaningfully investing in your community.

Enter Jim Denevan -- artist and eco-chef -- who has been bringing people together to dine on food that’s grown and harvested by local farmers and food artisans since 2000, when he started Outstanding in the Field, a for-profit event with tickets selling for about $150 each, featuring locally-grown selections by star chefs. The gatherings have taken place in farm fields, gardens, on mountain tops, sea caves, museums, ranches – and, most recently, Rockefeller Center in New York City. Notable chefs and restaurant owners Mario Batali and Tom Colicchio, along with 100 other socially-conscious foodies, were invited for a dinner prepared by Brown Café’s owner Alejandro Alcocer, made from locally-grown treasures: beets from Brooklyn, collards from the Bronx, Rockaway bass -- and a pig from Queens.

The first Outstanding in The Field event started with a dinner in Denevan’s hometown of Santa Cruz, CA, where he had worked as a chef since he was 17. “We had this idea from the beginning that the farmer should be the star - and the chef should be of secondary importance. The farmer really wasn’t talked about. Maybe that’s because people didn’t see farming as a creative pursuit. But I argue that it is,” he says. “I identify with focus and passion. Origin stories are interesting. I’m concerned with origins,” he continues.

Just as fleeting as the traveling diners are Denevan’s signature large-scale beach-sand drawings. “People always ask how it feels to have them wash away. But who would want it not to wash away?” says Denevan, whose work has been exhibited at P.S.1.

Wearing his customary cowboy hat at the Rockefeller Center event -- at a loft and garden space overlooking the midtown skyline -- Denevan had few words, letting the farmers do the talking for the night. What they said was enlightening: If New York City used the 14,000 acres of available rooftop for farming, it could feed as many as 20 million people. The environmental, nutritional, and socioeconomic benefits would include providing fresh fruits and vegetables to areas that have been historically malnourished; reduction of the worldwide carbon footprint; generating new sources of wealth to communities; and recycling city resources, like turning compressed garbage into soil fertilizer and using water run-off to cool buildings. We might not have the roof gardens yet, but we can make a small change now by supporting our local farms (if you’re in New York, there’s a list of some just below) – a social goal which Denevan has brought plenty of awareness to.

~Sara Costello


Taqwa Community Farm
90 West 164th street (at Ogden Avenue)
(718) 542-2700

Queens Country Farm
73-50 Little Neck Parkway
Floral Park, New York, 11004

East New York Farm
631 New Lots Ave
Brooklyn, NY
(718) 649.7979

East New York Farms
Just Food
Eat Well Guide

November 23, 2008

In Pursuit of the Bronze Horse
Stockholm Film Festival Has Heavy-Hitting Talent

The Stockholm International Film Festival is held every year in the second half of November, just when the cold Swedish winter kicks in – it isn’t unusual to see snow falling the day of the red-carpet opening. But the aforementioned carpet is one of the only actual similarities between this festival and more mainstream ones. Case in point: the winning film each year wins the festival's Bronze Horse Award -- literally the world's heaviest prize, weighing over 15 pounds. Previous winners have been Quentin Tarantino's Reservoir Dogs, and Lars von Trier's Europa.

This year's special guest is Wong Kar Wai, with his Asian saga Ashes of Time Redux; and, for the delight of Stockholm's fashionistas, Matt Tynauer, with his film Valentino: The Last Emperor, will join. But the most renowned is probably Roberto Saviano, author of the book Gomorra, about the Mafia in Naples. He’ll hold a conference, and attend the red-carpet showing of Matteo Garrone’s movie based on the book.

What’s the cultural weight of all of the above? Well, the Stockholm Film Festival is the pride of the Swedish cultural year, according to its organizers. But in reality, it’s overshadowed by the Gothenburg festival elsewhere in the country -- because of that festival’s focus on Scandinavian productions, it’s more of a gathering of the local industry greats. Stockholm is more of an international best-of list.

Ever since cinema went digital, though, the Stockholm festival has grown. This year, there are 170 movies from 40 countries. Minister of Culture Lena Adelsohn Liljeroth likened the event to a "Swedish smorgasbord where the visitors can have a delightful dish of their own taste." Last year, 125,000 visitors came.

What are some of the ones to watch this year? One of them, Mr. Governor, is a sharply unique take on the documentary genre, shot in black and white with barely a spoken word. Still, it’s an interesting, humorous take on the everyday life of a top politician. During one year, director Måns Månsson follows the long and grey working days of Anders Björck, the Swedish Governor of Uppsala Län, and former Minister of Defense. Without any interviews, it uses long screenshots to tell the life of Björck. This is the first documentary to be nominated for the Bronze Horse.

Another film, Downloading Nancy, is Johan Renck’s disturbing snuff-drama about a woman haunted by past abuse. When cutting her arms with a razor don't give Nancy, played by Maria Bello, a euphoric effect anymore, she flees into the arms of a friend from a sexual webchat. As Nancy is exploring the world of sadomasochism, her confused husband is alone at home trying to figure out how to use the computer. Renck has a background doing music videos for demanding artists such as Madonna – perhaps that’s why nearly every frame in the movie is shot nearly perfectly: Even a tied-up and tortured Maria Bello is beautiful to watch. But there is no feeling transferred. Renck could have shown picture postcards just as well.

Finally, Disappearing is one of the mysteries of the festival. Is it a short movie or an art film? Through fashion, young director Emil Klang tells the story. But it’s not a conventional story -- just moving pictures. Models are posing in landscapes dressed in the prime of Swedish fashion designers to the tunes of El Perro Del Mar. Klang’s previous film 5 Positions was shown at both film festivals and fashion shows. Maybe this is the missing link between catwalk, film and magazine photography. Or maybe Emil just doesn’t have a clue. It’s up to you.

~Aaron Eklof

November 20, 2008

My Town: Aspen, Colorado
Designer Lindsey Thornburg on Her Beloved Vegas on Ice

“Fashion is so important to me because of people more than trends. Everything I have on is collected. It tells a story about someone,” says the 23-year-old brunette Lindsey Thornburg— who wears floral leggings, a wool Pendleton, worn tee, and plaid blue cloak. True enough, the designer’s ensemble conveys remnants of a rebellious youth influenced by skate and punk culture, and of her visit to Machu Picchu, where she first gained the inspiration for her eponymous cloak label. As she explains of her South American travels, “Once I went to Peru, I was overwhelmed by how people dress. Even though they’re living in what would be considered a barrio, they manage to create the most amazing textures with their fabrics.” Translating this style for a high-fashion audience, Thornburg’s luxury cloaks, combining colorful novelty prints with lush silk linings, can now be found draped on the shoulders of trendsetters from New York to Paris, as well as the racks at Oak and Barneys.

But what someone might not infer from her defining multi-layered aesthetic is that this current bi-coastal beauty— who splits her time between New York and Los Angeles— grew up on the scenic slopes of Aspen, Colorado, where she spent her days snowboarding and breathing the crisp, fresh air. However, as her mantra follows: “Function comes first, then fashion will bloom out of it,” it’s no wonder that Thornburg’s design evolution led her to a unique brand of outerwear befitting the snowy setting of her childhood.

Joining Thornburg on a cloak-appropriate brisk day, psychoPEDIA met the designer at her Lower East Side studio to reminisce on her idyllic Aspen memories:

First scent you associate with Aspen?
Pine. You get off the airplane, and it’s a saturation of pine.

Most picturesque memory?
After it snows heavily, just sitting in trees, surrounded by powder— it’s the most silence you could imagine.

How did you view it as a teenager?
You couldn’t ask for a better surrounding to grow up in. To be able to let your teenage angst out on mountain sports was amazing.

Is the local experience very different from that of tourists?
Of course, but I think that adds to the beauty of it. When I was growing up there, the live-in population was 2,500, with a transient population of 30,000 in the winter. It had a worldly feeling, even though it was a small town. It has so much art and culture because of everybody going in and out. I was exposed to a lot, but kept sheltered at the same time. Not a lot of people get to grow up like that.

Who is the real community?
It’s an amazing mish-mash, similar to New York in a sense that random people have all shown up there. Anything from 60s hippies to old coal miners. Really wealthy people that come from everywhere, people that work at bars, and ski bums— a whole culture just there to utilize the mountains. The dichotomy between the poor and the rich there is weird. It was the kind of money where somebody’s grandfather has the patent on the toothpick or shopping cart. Being able to launch a rocket out of your backyard kind of money.

Is there a big snowboarding culture?
When I lived there, Aspen Mountain didn’t allow snowboarders. But there were three other mountains that did— Highlands, Buttermilk, and Snowmass, which is the best.

Was there a rivalry between snowboarders and skiers?
There’s always been. Teenagers are rabble-rousers. At the time, snowboarding was only about 10 years old. It took time for it to acclimate into ski culture and share the same mountains because they each had different affects on the snow. It’s indicative of having a younger culture move in on an older culture’s territory. It’s better now, especially since skiers are getting more tricky and aerial.

How would you spend a regular day with friends?
The center of the town was a place called The Popcorn Wagon— an actual caboose from a train that was open. There was a guy there who’d make flavored popcorn. It was also a creperie, open all day until 4 in the morning. It’s where we would gather, the whole sixteen people in my class, and then go up into the mountains.

Best sights that tourists might not know about?
Smuggler Mountain and The Grottos. There’s a pass only open three months of the year called Independence Pass— the most windy, scary road— only open in the summer, because it’s really treacherous. It’s where you find the Continental Divide, where the continent physically splits. There are communities back there, pretty much shut-ins, that only get traffic for those months. They’re like little archives, frozen in time.

Any notable locals?
Hunter S. Thompson lived there on Woody Creek Ranch until he died. He would come out with a shotgun if you went on his land and fire it in the air. Everybody messed with him. He was the legendary drunk getting DUIs every week. Growing up, he was known as the grumpy old man.

If you were to design cloaks around Aspen fashion, what would you create?
Probably something with fake fur. The style in Aspen is really showy and gaudy— rich skiers all glammed out. It’s like Vegas on ice sometimes.

First place you’d take a friend that’d never been?
Up the gondola to the top of Aspen Mountain to sit on the sundeck, and then snowboard. Then we’d go to the spa at The Little Nell hotel at the bottom of the mountain.

Anything you appreciate about Aspen in retrospect that you couldn’t then?
In your teenage years, you take some things for granted. You just have that innate want to escape. But I never took it for granted. I always knew it was an amazing place.

~Leann Peterson


See more of Aspen with Lindsey’s suggestions:
Cooper Street; "The best for beer and shuffleboard— the stand-up kind with sandy tables."
Montagna Bar
Alternative Edge

Road-Test: Late-Night Vyner Street
Finding the New Gen of Young British Artists in Six Steps

With the fantastical claim of having the “highest concentration of artists in the world,” Hackney, East London still remains the advertising agencies’ main port of call to head-hunt graphic designers, illustrators, filmmakers and many other creatives to push their wares. This geographical focus of artists developed itself in the ‘80s, when cheap rent and large amounts of empty warehouse spaces made Hoxton Square, Curtain Road, and Charlotte Road in Shoreditch the adopted home of British artists.

Things rapidly changed when the White Cube opened its large, fancy doors on Hoxton Square in 2000; the area was then transformed into the condition we find it in now: ‘cool.’ But with that tag the inevitable came -- where the ad agencies first came to headhunt, they now came to home-hunt. The yuppies flooded into this quirky newly-discovered area, rents went up, and artists were forced to move to a cheaper and (back then) more unattractive area. Most of them only managed to budge less than a mile further east, and the key result of that is the rise -- and rise -- of Vyner Street.

In the same way the yuppies looted their beloved Hoxton, the artists frog-marched themselves into Vyner Street, and what had been the epicenter of London’s rag trade was quickly transformed into a hotbed of over a dozen galleries and studios.

Time Out magazine, in conjunction with the British Arts Council, has recently come up with the idea of First Thursdays, whereby every first Thursday of the month, East London opens its galleries and museums till late at night. This December 4th sees Vyner Street as the place to be: It will host what can be best described as its own mini art festival: there is free beer, a pub and loads of exhibitions. Despite this, there doesn’t usually tend to be much artistic debate and consideration going on-– it’s more hanging out, drinking and flirting. Free booze+artists+locals+street usually equals trouble -- but to make your experience as a Vyner first-timer a perfect one, and a lot less scary, stick with these below steps, and you shall surely experience Vyner Street to the max, and discover a new generation of artists along the way.

1: Get started
Get all your friends together. You’ll probably lose them all, as this just happens in festival situations like these. But the idea of going with a big family is fun, right? Make sure to get to Vyner Street in time, and start your Vyner-walk at 7pm the latest. Galleries close at 9ish, so you should get the most out of it and visit all of them.

2: The Off License (for drink)
Since we all love a bargain (and because free beers run out quickly at the galleries), buy your beers at the Off License. It’s half the price of the beer at the pub, and you will appreciate the helping hands of the local shopkeepers later on as you stagger home. Don’t feel bad about drinking on the street either; everyone on Vyner Street walks around drinking out of cans and wine bottles. It’s a hedonist feast.

3: Art
With a continuously changing program of up-and-coming as well as established artists, we advise you to not just stick to two or three galleries, but devote your entire evening to Vyner Street, and check out all the galleries from top to bottom of the street. In case you want to check in advance which exhibitions are currently on, websites such as Art Rabbit and First Thursday are very useful.

4: Drink (again)
There is a great traditional British pub on Vyner Street -- The Victory. With its free jukebox, dusty carpet, pool table, rather smelly half outside-half inside toilets and drunk regulars at the bar, it might not be the classiest place in the world, but it sure is fun. Lots of the gallery people and local artists hang out here on First Thursday evenings, so it’s a great spot for people watching, networking and general schmoozing.

5: Eat
A small glass of beer might be equal in calories to eating two whole Subways with extra cheese, but since you skipped your dinner to rush to Vyner Street, you’ll probably be starving by now. Around the corner from Vyner Street, on Mare Street, are hundreds of great cheap Vietnamese restaurants. Our own favorite is Tres Viet, which also has a Bring Your Own booze policy. (PS: go for the salt and pepper squid and dry papaya salad here; they’re both fab.)

6: The after party (drink again, again)
There are three things you can do now: go home, get even more drunk and head back to the Victory, or drink cocktails in style and dance with the avant garde at the super-cool Bistrotheque around the corner from Vyner Street. This bar/restaurant/theater happens to be run by the same people that turned the East London boozer The Bricklayers Arms into the hangout for the YBAs (Young British Artists) in the ‘90s. Launching in 2004, The Bistroteque offers arty dinners, burlesque and tranny shows, not only to the now older and more successful group of artists to whom you should cling to for free drinks; but also to the new generation of cool kids, such as Mika Doll, Ryan Styles, Jodie Harsh, Scottee, and hubby/artist/printmaker James Unsworth-- who you should cling to for, well, another after-party.

~Freddie Janssen


For more info, see:
artrabbit.com
firstthursdays.co.uk
bistrotheque.com

November 19, 2008

Road-Test: Late-Night Vyner Street
Finding the New Gen of Young British Artists in Six Steps

With the fantastical claim of having the “highest concentration of artists in the world,” Hackney, East London still remains the advertising agencies’ main port of call to head-hunt graphic designers, illustrators, filmmakers and many other creatives to push their wares. This geographical focus of artists developed itself in the ‘80s, when cheap rent and large amounts of empty warehouse spaces made Hoxton Square, Curtain Road, and Charlotte Road in Shoreditch the adopted home of British artists.

Things rapidly changed when the White Cube opened its large, fancy doors on Hoxton Square in 2000; the area was then transformed into the condition we find it in now: ‘cool.’ But with that tag the inevitable came -- where the ad agencies first came to headhunt, they now came to home-hunt. The yuppies flooded into this quirky newly-discovered area, rents went up, and artists were forced to move to a cheaper and (back then) more unattractive area. Most of them only managed to budge less than a mile further east, and the key result of that is the rise -- and rise -- of Vyner Street.

In the same way the yuppies looted their beloved Hoxton, the artists frog-marched themselves into Vyner Street, and what had been the epicenter of London’s rag trade was quickly transformed into a hotbed of over a dozen galleries and studios.

Time Out magazine, in conjunction with the British Arts Council, has recently come up with the idea of First Thursdays, whereby every first Thursday of the month, East London opens its galleries and museums till late at night. This December 4th sees Vyner Street as the place to be: It will host what can be best described as its own mini art festival: there is free beer, a pub and loads of exhibitions. Despite this, there doesn’t usually tend to be much artistic debate and consideration going on-– it’s more hanging out, drinking and flirting. Free booze+artists+locals+street usually equals trouble -- but to make your experience as a Vyner first-timer a perfect one, and a lot less scary, stick with these below steps, and you shall surely experience Vyner Street to the max, and discover a new generation of artists along the way.

1: Get started
Get all your friends together. You’ll probably lose them all, as this just happens in festival situations like these. But the idea of going with a big family is fun, right? Make sure to get to Vyner Street in time, and start your Vyner-walk at 7pm the latest. Galleries close at 9ish, so you should get the most out of it and visit all of them.

2: The Off License (for drink)
Since we all love a bargain (and because free beers run out quickly at the galleries), buy your beers at the Off License. It’s half the price of the beer at the pub, and you will appreciate the helping hands of the local shopkeepers later on as you stagger home. Don’t feel bad about drinking on the street either; everyone on Vyner Street walks around drinking out of cans and wine bottles. It’s a hedonist feast.

3: Art
With a continuously changing program of up-and-coming as well as established artists, we advise you to not just stick to two or three galleries, but devote your entire evening to Vyner Street, and check out all the galleries from top to bottom of the street. In case you want to check in advance which exhibitions are currently on, websites such as Art Rabbit and First Thursday are very useful.

4: Drink (again)
There is a great traditional British pub on Vyner Street -- The Victory. With its free jukebox, dusty carpet, pool table, rather smelly half outside-half inside toilets and drunk regulars at the bar, it might not be the classiest place in the world, but it sure is fun. Lots of the gallery people and local artists hang out here on First Thursday evenings, so it’s a great spot for people watching, networking and general schmoozing.

5: Eat
A small glass of beer might be equal in calories to eating two whole Subways with extra cheese, but since you skipped your dinner to rush to Vyner Street, you’ll probably be starving by now. Around the corner from Vyner Street, on Mare Street, are hundreds of great cheap Vietnamese restaurants. Our own favorite is Tres Viet, which also has a Bring Your Own booze policy. (PS: go for the salt and pepper squid and dry papaya salad here; they’re both fab.)

6: The after party (drink again, again)
There are three things you can do now: go home, get even more drunk and head back to the Victory, or drink cocktails in style and dance with the avant garde at the super-cool Bistrotheque around the corner from Vyner Street. This bar/restaurant/theater happens to be run by the same people that turned the East London boozer The Bricklayers Arms into the hangout for the YBAs (Young British Artists) in the ‘90s. Launching in 2004, The Bistroteque offers arty dinners, burlesque and tranny shows, not only to the now older and more successful group of artists to whom you should cling to for free drinks; but also to the new generation of cool kids, such as Mika Doll, Ryan Styles, Jodie Harsh, Scottee, and hubby/artist/printmaker James Unsworth-- who you should cling to for, well, another after-party.

~Freddie Janssen


For more info, see:
artrabbit.com
firstthursdays.co.uk
bistrotheque.com

November 18, 2008

The Nurturer
Platon's "Nutopia" Encourages Up-and-Coming Photogs

One day, two assistants of the photographer Platon came to him and said, “We’re lost. Can we show you our work?” Platon, who has gained fame with bold, graphic portraits for the covers of Time, the New York Times Magazine, Rolling Stone and portraits for the New Yorker, reflects on that moment today: “There is a whole world of underground photography,” he says. “I was amazed at how good the work was. And it’s inspiring for me to talk to them about it.”

A month later four photographers showed up to discuss their work, then six. “I had to formalize it. Now we have a whole organization in place.” To that end, the Nutopia Forum was created. Although the group’s manifesto says “Nutopia has no lands, no boundaries, and no passports, only people,” membership is by invite only -- and if Platon doesn’t feel you’re working hard enough, you’re kicked out. There are currently 20 core members (and a long waiting list to join) who meet once a month at Platon’s Soho studio.

Platon’s intent for Nutopia is to change the photography industry’s lack of nurturing young and emerging talent. “I feel there is something wrong with our industry, where no one celebrates up-and-coming photographers. Those who are established, are celebrated like rock stars,” he says. Trying to break into an industry that, as Platon says, “will abuse you if you let it” can seem impossible, especially at a time when clients are taking little risks and are less inclined to give jobs to new talent: “There is no better time, then, to impart wisdom and knowledge to those starting out.”

So, we asked him: how do you establish yourself as a photographer? “One of the things you need more than anything is a sense of confidence. Raise the bar, and work your ass off. I know my strengths and my weaknesses and what I’m capable of giving. That’s the greatest philosophy I can give the members, “ says Platon. “If you’re going to say you can do it all, then you have to back it up. I’ve spent my whole career fighting out of pigeonholes.”

Forum member Andreas Laszlo Konrath, 27, who has been a member since 2005 and a former Platon assistant, has gone on to shoot for Interview, New York Magazine, and Wonderland. The London native credits the collective with helping him gain confidence in his work. “The Forum is a testing ground and an intimate setting. Whatever path you want to take, fine art or advertising, you have to show your work to the world.” Although Konrath put in time in as an assistant, he doesn’t believe it’s required (Platon himself never assisted). Of assisting, he says, “I think it can be detrimental. They may be assisting a big name and get flown across the world and get trapped in this rut. They get used to that kind of lifestyle… You end up assisting one guy for 7 years and taking one picture. I always found time to shoot my own stuff. You just have to be clever about it.”

While Platon and the noted industry agents and art directors he invites to speak with the group stress knowing what you want and where you want your career to go, Konrath has other ideas: “You have to practice and experiment, as long as you’re not lazy. My advice is to not feel too much pressure. Some people really want to chase fame. The industry can take away the naïve, innocent feeling that you have when you first pick up a camera. You have to say, ‘This is about me and the camera and the subject. I just want to take good pictures. That’s when I’m happy.’”

Platon sees Konrath as an example of someone who has made great strides in the Nutopia Forum, and how it can benefit others. “Andreas has flourished in the Forum. He’s given so much back. I believe he’s going to be a superstar.” Probably not the only one Nutopia will nurture.

- Sara Costello

November 17, 2008

Shop Guide: Men, Get a Better Sweater
From Cardigans to Crewnecks, Our Favorite Options

Sometimes, guys have problems buying sweaters for themselves. It isn’t their fault, just a little shopping anxiety that’s inherent in the genes. The weather gets colder, they want a new sweater, so they just open the J. Crew catalog they get in the mail and pick the first thing they see. There’s nothing wrong with the J. Crew sweater – but we at psychoPEDIA recommend that if you’re getting one or two new sweaters for fall, it makes sense to shop around a bit. Or just let us do it for you: To jog your brain, we’ve picked a few of our favorite options below, in all shapes and price ranges:

Uniqlo Merino wool cardigan ($39.50)
Ah, the cardigan – so retro, so preppy, so frumpy - if done the wrong way. Every guy should have a cardigan, but the problem is getting one to fit right, that’s not too long and not too bunchy in the back. That’s where Uniqlo comes in. Their cardigan’s a great one – it fits slim, but not gay-disco slim. The V comes down deep enough in front but not too far. The colors are great (our favorite is the rich wine color). And the $39.50 price is a welcome tiny dent on your credit card statement.

Theory 'Harmony' long-sleeve sweater ($225)
Theory does simple better than anyone else. We’re talking simple in the good way – a wardrobe basic taken to its softest, most elegant, well-made power. This one, from their current collection, is a twist on that simple aesthetic, with a gradated stripe pattern that gets darker as it goes down, from light and dark gray, to black. In lesser hands this kind of design can easily go wrong, but it all melds perfectly together here. It’s slim, sexy and sophisticated.

Billy Reid Wool half-zip sweater ($275)
The half-zip sweater is a wonder of nature – allowing you to look buttoned- (sorry, zippered) up at will, then casual on the weekends with a T-shirt. Head down to Billy Reid’s ultra-inviting Bond St. store for one of the best examples of the genre, a wool version made in Italy, coming in several colors (our favorite is the gorgeously autumnal nutmeg). Or stay at home and purchase it on his website. It makes you accessible in a shirt and tie, or gives you a dash of elegance on casual days. And the styling is superior, with tone-on-tone chest stripe seaming detail, and an antique brass zipper. Classic.

Engineered Garments 'Bedford' Merino wool sweater jacket ($400)
This line, made in New York, is a fascinating anomaly – Japanese designer Daiki Suzuki has brilliantly interpreted outdoorsy-inspired American sportswear in this upscale line. To that end, the designs are rugged and masculine, with tailoring that’s neat, tidy and modern. One of our favorite examples of what Suzuki does so well, is this beautiful sweater coat, which is so soft, it’s all but guaranteed to inspire hugs. And it’s way stylish: A notch collar, slightly curving front and rounded corners make it look sophisticated and rugged at once.

Tim Hamilton Hand-knit multi-stitch cardigan ($2,000)
You gotta have dreams. And they all needn’t be about spiritual fulfillment, love and good health. Some can just be about … stuff. This cardigan’s tacked to our mental dream bulletin board, as a worthy prize for hard work. What we love about it is that, though it costs a lot of money (and looks it), the sweater isn’t showy or logo-ed out. It’s just pure quality – entirely hand-knit in ultra-soft gray cashmere, it’s true workmanship defined, a lifetime piece. If you’re ready to make your dream come true, head up to Bergdorf’s and get this true work of art from designer Tim Hamilton, who used to work for Ralph Lauren and now is defining a neo-classic American fashion aesthetic with his own, very-Clark-Kent line. And if you can’t spend the four figures, hit up the Tim Hamilton sample sale this coming Saturday and Sunday (12-6pm, 195 Chrystie St., #502-E).

~Stephen Milioti


First photo by The Facehunter

November 16, 2008

I Art in My Control
Marco Perego: Foul and Fair Realities

It’s a tilted pinball world at Marco Perego’s show which opened November 14th with Italian subtitles at Half Gallery, LES, New York City. Perego, a former soccer player, is acknowledged in the Euro lingo chatter as one with artistic accomplishments, (Adam, Eve, and Me, for instance), a series of impressive endeavors, precedents to expect this half space, retitled Half Gallery to house for a few weeks works of merit, even originality. However, this shared space dictates a restart menu, the genesis of which plausibly emanates from the non-curatorial past of its three owners: Andy Spade, Bill Power, and James Frey.

And, even if the limited square footage presents space hindrances, the selective possibilities are endless. Three inconsequential ink drawings, oozing from that open goal called not remarkable, along with a predictably attired, seated William Burroughs resting a rifle upon lap, one presumably used to have shot Amy Winehouse, whose splattered brain stuff decorates the wall to the left of one of the three drawings do not coalesce with Perego’s prior work’s originality, cleverness. Attesting to this appraisal is the dead self destructive singer, on the floor holding the ubiquitous starter of the world’s troubles and William Burroughs’, the apple. He did after all kill his wife after placing this nasty fruit upon her head. We get it.

That is it: sin and masking and life’s Mickey Mouse divertissements, all referred to in summary form in the already noted drawings. Perego gave nothing but the remembrance of what he did and could provide.

Prego provides a text presumably summing up the show’s theme: The truth is all of these things/The truth is none of these things/The truth is some of these things; however, Macbeth’s witches said it better, “Fair is foul/Foul is fair. Once again, he reroutes reader/viewer to the assumed, that real and currently missing reference.

To give via not giving is easily installable. Perego's art, past and present, is one of redirected allusions. The references-- immediacy's slammed shut tease titillation-- are available, but the compositional intelligence presents viewers with extraordinarily structured accomplishments, a term that synthesizes the finality of each work, nothing to edit; he knows what he is doing. "I art in my control," he plausibly would phrase in the not articulated vernacular. Perego presents the totality of what is left out. His subject matter generates framed realities that abstract themselves to a gift boxed admiration.

The unformulated is a subject matter that does have an open door policy and Half Gallery does not diminish Perego’s predilection to fit in what he leaves out.

~Alan Nadler

November 13, 2008

My Town: Amelia Island, Florida
Abigail Lorick on Fashion & Her Picturesque Retreat

Spotted: Blair and Serena running through Manhattan in matching Lorick originals-- or at least, that's what the unnamed narrator of the hit show Gossip Girl should be reporting to the audience in her popular tell-all source for Manhattan's elite.

While the fashion world may have just been introduced to Lorick, the eponymous collection by Abigail Lorick, in her latest Fashion Week Spring '09 presentation, hoards of Gossip Girl addicts are already familiar with the work of the young model turned designer-- whose looks could have her mistaken for one of the show's own starlets. Her designs, in fact, play the part of Eleanor Waldorf's high-end line, featured throughout the season on the likes of GG's leading ladies.

Perhaps an ode to her former days as a model on the runways of Milan and Paris for designers like Alberta Ferretti, her own collections feature flattering, feminine silhouettes for the modern girl that revive an old-world, sophisticated elegance–- yet always with a flirty edge. However, while the designs might suggest she spent her youth with pinkies upturned and ladies sipping tea on the Upper East Side, this current New York City resident and frequent globetrotter didn't always start out as the big city type, but claims her roots in the small-town Florida atmosphere of Amelia Island.

Now working on her next collection in Delhi, India, psychoPEDIA caught up with the designer to capture some treasured hometown memories and unveil her list of fashion favorites:

How would you describe Amelia Island to an outsider?
Heaven. Huge live oak trees with Spanish moss hanging all about, oysters, salt, the ocean, fishing, bicycles, golf carts, tennis, quiet peace, warm slow time. It’s the kind of place that gives you the impression you are standing still, which allows you to stop and breath in– which at that moment, you look up and realize life is pretty great.

What was your experience growing up there?
It was a child's dream. We had so much freedom and were always outside. Going to the beach was an everyday affair in the summertime. We practically lived in the water. Golf, tennis, sailing–- these activities were always accessible. But at the same token, I knew that there was more. At seven years old, I decided one day I would live in New York.

Did you miss anything once you left for the brighter lights of Milan and Paris? I always missed the ocean but didn’t really miss Amelia until I became settled in New York– when I understood the beauty of quietness and how lucky I was to grow up in such a natural haven.

Now that you've made a life for yourself in NYC, what do you find keeps you connected to Amelia Island?
I always need to go home for the peace, quiet, and rejuvenation. Going home is always a retreat for me. I love going back to Amelia.

What bits of inspiration for your designs have you taken from each city in all of your travels?
The subtle chicness of the women in Paris, the draping of India, the elegance of the last generation of elders in Milan, the old hollywood glam of L.A., the clean architecture lines in the Greek Islands, and the lighting in Buenos Aires.

As someone drawn to India, would you ever integrate their traditional fashions into your line?
I am in love with India. The sari is the most elegant ensemble a woman can wear. To take a piece of fabric and drape it into a perfect outfit is truly amazing. Each woman literally makes it her own, and she looks elegant in every situation.

Were there teen dramas you grew up watching, and did they influence your own style?
My So-Called Life and 90210. I didn't really get the fashion in My So Called Life, which made me understand I had a lot to learn. 90210– not so inspiring.

Which fictional character's closet would you like to raid?
Miss Holly Golightly.

Do you feel like the "uptown girl" persona portrayed in Gossip Girl fits your designs, or do you have another personality in mind when creating your collections?
I don’t think of the uptown girl. In the past, I’ve thought of Gossip Girl, especially when they opted to do an Eleanor Waldorf (Lorick) fashion show. But going forward, I’m seeing that our Lorick lady is growing up and finding herself in more sophisticated attire. I’m creating an ideal woman and working to accommodate her needs and desires.

Who’s the best-dressed Gossip Girl character?
Serena's mom.

Which show or movie would be your dream to costume design?
8 1/2 by Federico Fellini.

Oppositely, which show is totally out of touch and needs you to provide a makeover?
Honestly, I don’t have cable.

Number one fashion icon?
Anna Karina in all the Godard films. Her fashion came from within, she wore the clothes-they never wore her.

What’s the inspiration behind your upcoming collection?
La Mariee Etait en Noir (The Bride wore Black), the textures of Anselm Kiefer. Our Lorick lady is standing in the midst of melting ice caps this season and looking better than ever.

~Leann Peterson


Discover more of Amelia Island with Abigail's personal recommendations:

Moon River Pizza
Le Clos; "Not so low key"
The Book Loft, 214 Centre St. (904) 261-8991
Eight Flags Antique Market, 604 Centre St, (904)277-8550; "During the day, if you are lucky, you will have the opportunity to buy peanuts from Felix on his bicycle. And if you are really lucky, he will play you a tune on his harmonica."
Palace Saloon, "Must see Get Low. He is a regular."
Date Spot; "The sun setting on the marsh. I know it's cliche, but you have to do it!"

November 12, 2008

Restaurant Road-Test: Sheridan Square
Classic Eatery Favors High-End Hush over Celeb-Grabbing

The West Village has gone through a radical transformation in just 40 short years. In the ‘60s it was filled with hippies, war protestors, and gay and lesbian couples happy to live their lives relatively free from street-side discrimination. Today it still has all of those groups – but it also contains Cosmo-sipping Sex and the City girls, celebrity residents, baby carriages a plenty, about 1,000 Marc Jacobs stores, and designer cupcakes.

At the crux of this historic area is Sheridan Square – it’s actually sort of a triangle, really, down around 7th Ave. in the West Village’s literal heart. Nearby, many chic restaurants (remember Moomba?) have lived and died in the past decade and a half, and the latest outpost in this area is called, quite simply, Sheridan Square. The restaurant features chef Franklin Becker, who did time both at the uber-successful Brasserie in the Seagram Building in midtown, as well as a stint as Ron Perelman’s personal chef.

Design-wise, this place is about longevity rather than flash-in-the-pan: multi-toned wood planks, black and white photography, brown leather banquettes and a panoply of masculine earth tones give off a vibe that’s unexciting yet also unpretentious and somewhat elegant. It’s not really the best for a hot date or business dinner where you want to impress ten over-the-top clients, but for a quiet upscale dinner with someone you like, it fits the bill.

On a Saturday night, the restaurant was happily crowded (which isn’t the case everywhere in NYC these days) – the maitre’d and waiter were downright St. Louis-friendly. “If you have any questions, ask me – we want you to be happy,” the waiter said – and they had no idea my friend and I were in reviewing this place.

We started with an escargot appetizer, which was good but not quite as garlicky and slap-your-butt-with-your-tongue good as in the best French places. A special soup of chicken stock, delicate sweet sausage and leeks was much more successful – a real autumnal joy. The menu touts its “cherrywood-grilled” items as an entrée option – my friend had a medium-rare rib-eye steak, and I had the trout. My fish was really well done, oily enough to have a lot of flavor, but not too much; the steak, said my friend (and I agreed), was just average. That wood-burning oven just made it taste too -- woody. Finally, a foie gras torchon was a well-oiled machine from this former Brasserie alum, and would do great in any good French restaurant in the city. The flavor here – vibrant American with a tinge of French – is well-executed – but, to be honest, it has been done before.

Dessert was very good – a delicate strawberry shortcake that was feather-light, and the perfectly-executed S’mores – about the highest-end version you’ll ever find, with thick chocolate ganache. That dessert says pretty much everything you need to know about this place – everything is well-executed – it just doesn’t hit you over the head as new or innovative. If you’re the type to wear a flashy baguette-diamond Rolex, it’s not for you. If you’ve got a vintage Patek Philippe on your wrist with nary a logo, though, you’ll appreciate this place’s very classical, un-Sex and the City, non-blingy vibe.

~Stephen Milioti

Sheridan Square, 134 7th Ave. South (at W. 10th St.), 212.352.2237

Rating:
Looks- 8/10
Taste- 7/10
Value- 7/10
Service- 8/10

Total ...30/40

First photo by Kreiger for Eater
Second photo via New York Journal
Third photo by Steven Richter for Insatiable Critic

November 11, 2008

Pardoning of the Witches
Historian John Callow on the Landmark New Case

Halloween sales figures in America cackled in the face of the economic downturn this year as Fox News reported a healthy increase in sales-– around 5.7 billion dollars–- on outfits for the popular holiday. However, the fact that these days, children and adults alike can adorn the now benign garb in public, shrouds the harsh reality that thousands of innocent women and men across Europe and America were once accused, tried, and executed for being witches in the late 16th early 17th centuries.

This year, the UK’s major manufacturer of Halloween goods and costumes, Angels, got involved by creating a petition to pardon those wrongfully accused–- burgeoned by last years’ parliamentary motion when a group of Swiss MPs pleaded with their government to pardon the last witch executed in Europe, Anna Goeldi. To handle the case, Angels brought in an expert–- renowned witchcraft historian John Callow, author of Witchcraft & Magic in Sixteenth and Seventeenth Century Europe, as well as radio host and university lecturer. Callow retrieved eight cases of historical importance in England, detailing the accounts of the victims, that highlighted the plight and unfair treatment of these men and women. And the stories, along with a public-signed petition, was then put forward to UK home secretary Jack Straw in the hopes of clearing their names.

Angels support of this case however, raises the question of whether it was an honest attempt to raise awareness and remove the suspicion and fear surrounding those who fell victim to miscarriages of justice, or if a mere extravagant ploy to bolster Angels' public image and improve sales. psychoPEDIA huddled round the fire with Callow to find out his take and discuss propaganda, Sarah Palin, and Angels' profit:

Didn’t you feel suspicious of Angels real reasons behind this petition?
Angels are pretty shrewd business people and took their opportunities, but they did it in a way that had a positive spin– if you want to look into the notion of enlightenment and justice for people.

Why was it that you chose only eight witches to pardon?
The eight were picked for geographical reasons, and people like a story to hang upon. It’s senseless to go for the eight and ignore the others, but you have to start somewhere. Essentially, they seemed like the ones who were archetypes. It’s not complete, and it’s not perfect, but you have a framework if people want to get involved or develop their interest.

Why not take it worldwide?
You have to start things and see how they go; there are times when you run things up the flagpole and see who salutes.

And has the flag been acknowledged in America yet?
Stirrings of it. I have had emails from people on the pagan circuit in America who are interested in doing a similar thing after this. And my line is, if they want to go out and do it, they are more than welcome. It’s the sort of thing that would take off in America.

Are you surprised it hadn’t been done before there?
In some ways– because their view of restitution for past wrongs appeals to a lot of the retrospective ideas in American popular culture. An example of this is the atonement being given very late to the Native Americans. Maybe the reason petitions about witchcraft haven’t been passed there is because the most immediate political issues are about slavery and the Native American struggle. The UK doesn’t have that experience of a near genocide like what happened to the Native Americans. It would be rather strange if the English got cross about what the Normans did to king Harold, or what the Romans did to Boudicca.

Do you see the rustling up of public fear via propaganda in any way similar to the 17th century witch hunts?
Societies do have this awful urge to find scapegoats. Some of the ideas about the others in society and the enemy within are almost perennial. You can see that in the McCarthy witch hunts, which were called “witch hunts” for good reason in the 1950’s. America has this strange mixture of the liberated and the enlightened, which can be really scary. For instance, the clip on YouTube of Sarah Palin getting blessed by a pastor against witchcraft, you think to yourself, “How does this stuff happen?”

~Kevin Soar

November 10, 2008

Shop Guide: Online Magazines
The Fold-Epidemic Brings Readers to Cyberspace

As if the current national financial crisis weren’t enough to throw a wrench in people’s everyday lives, the recent list of print magazines folding at an exponentially alarming rate threatens to even disturb the routine experience of subway commuting and lobby-waiting.

However, with the fall of print comes the rise of online media—which in each magazine’s wake, leaves a host of qualified alternatives. So whether it be filling the void in cultural, fashion, celebrity scandal, or lifestyle news, readers who’ve lost their print companions can now look to the dot-coms for their much needed fix:

POP
Whether the rumors are true that POP is hitting a year-long snooze-button, slated to reawaken next fall under new editorial leadership (with the departure of founder and EIC Kate Grand)— the hiatus will likely take a toll on dedicated readers who yearn for a bi-annual supplement of high fashion from the British mag, which has been serving the style-hungry community since 2000, offering an edge that acted like fellow glossy Vogue’s younger (and fresher) sibling. As Pop-sters mourn the “temporary” last, and appropriately enough, 20th Anniversary issue with a grunged-out Drew Barrymore on the cover—or wait for Grand’s new project launching early next year simply called Love– they can read up on cyber-alternatives:
Hint- With columns like “Model Mania” highlighting the latest model darlings, “Supernova” for designers on the rise, and “Hint TV” for a backstage look at designers at work, readers can also subscribe to the daily updated blog that documents everything from world street style to profiles and “Hintnterviews” with fashion’s elite and underground subjects.
Fashion156- This London-based daily fashion and style blog aims at both a male and female audience, supplying everything from that month’s must-have grooming products to obscure designers that should be on an insiders’ radar.

Radar
Despite the fact that Radar had already gone through several pseudo-demises, the sudden (and permanent) death of the magazine came just as shockingly to its readers as its own employees—while the most disappointed of all was likely the last issue’s cover girl, long-time Hollywood bad girl Shannon Doherty, whose face will never hit the newsstands. While there’s talk that the site will be revamped for a more TMZ-friendly audience, and be renamed Radar Online, fans of the now deceased source of celebrity updates and scandal, can now browse the internet’s equally scandalous and informative replacements:
Nerve- Doing double-duty as an online magazine focused on sex, arts, and pop culture– with original content like the “50 Worst Sex Scenes” or “Dating Confessions”– as well as a social networking site where users can post personal ads, Nerve has since expanded from its days as a mere dispenser of contemporary sex and relationship advice to including relevant reviews of varying topics in books, music, film, and television.
Slate- Founded by Michael Kinsley, formerly of the New Republic, this more politically-driven daily webzine offers fresh updates in current affairs and culture and coverage on topics from the arts to sciences.

Mass Appeal
Only a month after celebrating its 50th issue release, the 12-year-old publication founded by Adrian Moeller and Patrick Elasik sadly shut down their Brooklyn-based shop. While it once filled a once unrepresented niche market, providing a go-to source for all the latest in hip-hop and graffiti culture, the iconic bi-monthly magazine has since inspired both its female equivalent and spin-off, Missbehave, as well as a long list of online blogs and sites centered around this urban lifestyle:
Hypebeast- Cited by Time as being one of the 50 best websites, the three-year-old website offers street fashion freaks a look at hard-to-find and limited edition gear, as well as an inside look at prominent figures in street culture.
High Snobiety- With both a men’s and women’s version (to which the latter is called HighSnobette), this online lifestyle magazine features highlights in street style and features with urban designers and musicians on the rise.
Vapors- Although it’s still available in print for West Coasters, the magazine also offered in a digital edition acts like the Los Angeles cousin to Mass Appeal, toting the slogan “street couture.”

CosmoGirl
The pet project of founding editor Atoosa Rubenstein (also of Seventeen fame), CosmoGirl, the little sister to Cosmopolitan, was a cherished monthly magazine for teenage girls to get their healthy dose of celebrity, beauty, and fashion news and lifestyle advice they couldn’t ask their own parents. Now with the disappearance of CosmoGirl, two years after ElleGirl’s demise– and not to mention, only one of the many closings of older girl-centric publications like Sassy and YM– a new generation of iPhone-wielding, savvy internet experts can now look to their online options:
AlphaKitty– Rubenstein’s new venture, a You-Tube-based video network aimed at 15 to 30-year-olds, will provide two episodes a week, featuring the dark-haired editor herself, providing direct musings and advice to her dedicated viewers and toting the same uplifting messages to young women who followed her magazines from teenagers into adulthood.
Fashion Tribes- A blogroll providing daily news bites on style, beauty, and luxury lifestyle, Fashion Tribes offers a grown-up option for young female readers to segue into the harder-to-pronounce designers, while still getting a dose of styles from the latest episode of Gossip Girl.

Men's Vogue
While Men’s Vogue-– which had since expanded from its American edition to offer versions in France, Italy, and China alike-– won’t be removed from the market just yet, the magazine’s scale-back to a bi-annual publication will likely have its well-dressed readers shaking in their designer boots. Luckily, a few evolving online men’s publications guarantee that deprived Men’s Vogue readers will still get their internet updates:
Men's Flair- Documenting everything from menswear maintenance basics, the latest men’s fragrances, to the evolution of men’s style through film and historic icons, it’s easily understood why the site’s motto states “Men’s Style as Seen by those living it.”
Valet- For men who need to be on constant notice of style developments like the latest blazer of the moment can even have Twitter updates from this online men’s style site, which includes features like “How to Dress Like Don Draper” to ranging topics in travel, food, tech gear, literature, and movies.

November 09, 2008

A Trip to The Candy Store
Streetwear Shop's Ian Cumberbatch on Sweet Threads

If unsuspecting Londonites walked into The Candy Store expecting to find M&Ms and lollipops, what they’d end up finding is just as sweet-- as this new Birmingham-based streetwear shop stocks staple goodies from the The Hundreds and Mishka to Kid Robot. Founder Ian Cumberbatch set up the boutique in response to a severe lack of the clothing genre in Birmingham and to fulfill his vision of providing a bridge to that stylistic gap in his own hometown. In just eleven months since opening, The Candy Store has already established itself as one of Northern England’s finest purveyors of streetwear gear. Just in time for their one-year-anniversary celebration, psychoPEDIA had a chat with Ian to find out more about his shop and style:

Where did you get the name for the shop?
From where I grew up, to where I am now, I’d say life is a lil’ sweeter. A bit of a cliché, I know. Also, when you go shopping for streetwear in Hong Kong, you’re just like a kid in a candy store!

What do you think of the current streetwear scene?
I hate and love the scene. I love the fact brands are expanding themselves with cut-and-sew garments, accessories, and footwear. But I hate the explosion of shit t-shirts claiming limited-edition status, when really they’re only limited edition because they have a lack of funds and originality. They’re basically in it to make a quick buck.

What are your favorite brands?
The Hundreds are killing it with whatever they do, from tees to footwear. 10 Deep are up-front with their bold tee designs. Their cut and sewn game is picking up fast, so keep an eye out as it grows. Trapstar are holding it strong for the UK scene – they’ve got the game locked out here man! Award Tour is a small but fast growing US brand I love. They don’t get the recognition for their shit, but they’re ahead of the game with their season concepts. Hellz Bellz for me is the strongest girls brand out. Everything from their tees to denim is on point! The girls in Birmingham are just a lil’ slower than the London bunch to realize how hot the brand is.

Why do you think your shop has been so successful?
Basically, our shit tastes better! For real, any love is welcome and returned even more. We support any local streetwear boutique, because we all need to support each other in this game. At the dnd of the day, it helps to grow streetwear in the UK. That’s one thing we could learn from the States.

Favorite item of clothing that you own and why?
My woman’s edition Jordan Spikes. I even had Skateboard P himself drooling over them.

Your biggest selling brands?
The biggest sellers for the past three seasons has to plaid shirts. No matter what brand, they fly out! The Hundreds, 10 Deep, or Trapstar, that shit is gone first.

Which brand used to be good but is now kind of wack?
Carhartt. Maybe it’s because I haven’t seen too much of it around recently. Another would have to be Addict. Their over use of one particular print has bored me a little - even though the guys down there are cool and I have no beef with them. This answer is bound to get me in some bother…

What’s next for the shop?
Branding myself, a move to Hong Kong, and my own Diner!

~Donald Crunk @ Styleslut

November 06, 2008

My Town: Lexington, Kentucky
These United States on Hot Browns & Deliquency

This week's historical landmark, the election of Barack Obama for President, invites an inspirational surge for citizens across the United States. And it's with this renewed spirit that the aptly-named band, These United States, embark on their "Post-Election Tour" around the country. Possessing an Americana vibe, the six-piece– comprised of Jesse Elliott, David Strackany, J Tom Hantow, Mark Charles, Josh Read, Robby Cosenza, and Justin Craig– create old-school rock-and-roll combined with country-flavored vocals. And in their newest, sophomore release, Crimes, they reach back into the country's past to create an atmosphere colored by characters like the vagabonds and whiskey-drinking ruffians of the dusty, Wild West.

Splitting their time and their members, in two different cities, These United States draws from distinctly American influences of their contrasting hometowns of Washington, DC and Lexington, Kentucky. But to find out more about the city known as the “Horse Capital of the World” and home to Bluegrass music, psychoPEDIA caught up with the band, in the midst of a cross-country road-trip to their next destination, to get the scoop on Lexington and their take on this major moment in US history:

What inspired your band’s name, These United States?
I’ve always been fascinated with this idea of a hodge-podge of different places and people combined under one idea or flag. It’s really strange, historically and culturally. We’re a weird, mutated beast—these United States, and I like that. The name came from a fascination with that mish-mash.

How has your image of the US changed after this week’s historic election?
I’m pretty happy right now. It goes with our vision of what the United States can be. It’s a strange feeling too, because music has always had an element, whether it’s trying to be aesthetically different or not, that’s put in the position of being counter-cultural, even in mainstream music—in the sense of what most people would consider the status quo. We feel we’ve moved more towards the status quo in the last couple of days.

Is there an idea you want to promote on your post-election tour?
It’s kind of just a factual statement, not necessarily an assertion of a particular ideology. Sometimes the most powerful stuff can just come from an observation like that. We’re not trying to teach anyone anything, but reminding ourselves that’s where we are in history.

Has being dually-located in DC and Kentucky affected the sound or tone of your music?
They have a lot in common but are very different in the way things move, and how people move. It’s a happy accident that DC and Kentucky are our two hometowns, because our music combines an Americana, folky, country– that sort of back-porch rock, which at least on preconceptions, Kentucky can represent, while on the DC side, we have roots in pop music, dancing, and urban culture. I think all of that comes out in different places in our music. It’s a decopage.

Your music sounds like the soundtrack for a Western saloon. Are there any local spots like that the band goes to?
We hung out a lot at The Dame. A lot of our social structure was there. It was the only original music club and part of the historic block that was just torn down. They’ve just relocated in an entertainment complex, but it’s different. About six new music venues have opened up in the last few months– a lot of them in big complexes, so there’s not as much a feel of community. It will probably take a couple of years for things to get worked out.

How would you describe the Lexington social scene?
It’s pretty much your basic college town– a small town where you can’t go and drink a beer without having to talk to someone for 20 minutes. But our whole historic block of downtown has been demolished to make room for the 2010 Equestrian Games, so Lexington is kind of bleak right now.

What’s a luxury you have in Lexington that you can’t get in DC?
The best thing about living there is we're affiliated with a studio where we recorded the last record. Our buddy Dwayne owns Shangri-La, located between campus and downtown. It’s a dream place you can’t get in the big city without playing thousands of dollars a month to use. I know lots of people living in New York or San Francisco who move to places like that so you don’t have to practice in a 5x5 concrete shell.

What’s the local cuisine?
There’s a dish called the “hot brown” which started at the Brown Hotel in Louisville in 1943. It’s a pretty disgusting meat-filled Southern fatty dish. The base is two slices of thick bread covered in country gravy, with pieces of ham, turkey, bacon– then smothered in cheese and tomatoes. You can get a veggie hot brown, but it’s just as dangerous. There’s a good place called Ramsey's that has just about the best hot brown you can get for $10. It’s super-sized proportions.

As home to the Festival of the Bluegrass, does the band feel inspired by that genre?
Pretty much all aspects of American music are influential. Tom is into bluegrass. He has a banjo in the van somewhere. And he looks good in a bowler hat because he a misshapen head.

Your latest album is called Crimes, so is there any criminal activity you’d like to fess up to now?
I jaywalk sometimes, I’m pretty bad ass. We all commit crimes of the mind. We also commit a lot of crimes of the liver.

On that note, who is your favorite American villain?
Hunter Thompson, and a lot of people from ‘60s counter-culture who were considered villains at the time— living against the established order. You can even look as Jack Karouac as a villain. And Gonzo, from The Muppets.

With your music taking inspiration from American folklore, do you know many local folk-tales?
John Hardy. There’s a famous folk song—like Stagger Lee— which is an open-ended song everyone from Bob Dylan to the Carter Family have done with their own take on this myth¬– basically the story of this guy who killed someone.

What are you looking forward to most on this tour?
We’re excited to be back in our other hometown of DC, because it will be a radically different place soon.

~Leann Peterson

November 05, 2008

Venue Road-Test: The Bell House
Gowanus Welcomes Its New Hideaway Hangout

Over the last decade, New Yorkers have witnessed the gentrified waistband of Williamsburg nightlife bust its gut. Spilling over into the Greenpoint, Bushwick and Bed-Stuy areas, everyone has unfortunately seen the rise of the term "hipster" in vernacular. With so much in flux, one time honored question still remains: Does anyone know where a girl can get a decent drink around here?" The best advice: Go west-- southwest, to be exact.

Welcoming a solution to the pervasive problem, the people behind Union Hall, purveyors of the cozy library-themed pub, basement music venue, and indoor bocce ball court, teamed with the owners of Brooklyn Height's Floyd for a larger endeavor-- The Bell House, which opened mid-September. As their respective reputations had swollen, so had the crowds. And the bottlenecks one had to maneuver seemed impenetrable, especially if coupled with thirst. Not to mention, just the caliber of the bands booked for Union Hall alone merited a larger space. So they looked towards the previously uncharted territory of Brooklyn's Gowanus Canal.

Perched on the timberline between Park Slope's classic brownstones and the starker warehouses of industrial Red Hook, this location feels tucked away yet is actually located conveniently only two blocks from the 4th Avenue F train. Once crowds hang a left onto 7th Street, residences peel away on the walk downhill. After crossing 3rd Avenue, the reaction may be a nervous "Do I have this address right?" but continuing west leads right to the doorstep of this burgeoning new space. If anything, the deserted atmosphere makes the actual entry into the Bell House more dramatic.

After an ID check with one of Union Hall's trademarked good-natured security guys, duck into a spacious lounge with no bottleneck in site. While this 1920s structure was formerly the storefront that housed a printing press, the new setting eradicates any memory of heavy metal equipment with the wainscotting, gentle lights, and cushy seats tucked around the perimeter. The bar runs the entire width of the front so there is room for everyone. In house special concoctions, named in honor of landmark indie albums ($6 to $8) are for the taking-- and specifically notable choices include in the Pinkerton (a la Weezer), Parklife (courtesy of Blur), and the piece de resistance White Light White Heat (inspired by the The Velvet Underground, $13). Draft, can, and bottled beers abound-- and the wine list (mulled included) is set to expand this winter. Pad your stomach lining with fresh handmade DUB Pies from the Down Under Bakery, and special events and concerts bring huaraches and pupusas from the famous Red Hook Vendors, with more menu offerings on the horizon.

After grabbing round two of drinks, patrons can head towards the second part of the venue: a true one-two-punch to the incredible setting. Pass the ticket booth, obtain the magic hand stamp, and enter the true heart of Bell House: Arched wooden ceilings that reach heights of 25 feet preside over a grandiose stage set off by the Twin Peaks-influenced red drapes. And even more conveniently, the stage right holds yet another bar-- this one slightly elevated, appropriate for vertically-challenged spectators to perch on the steps for a better view-- or for the slightly inebriated to lean against the railing. Unlike many venues, there are no columns to obstruct the view, and all audience members are privy to a sweeping vista lit by giant chandeliers. Holding close to 350 concert-goers (or 200 seated for mellow events) the sound system is state of the art. Opening weekend offered free shows by Matt Pond PA and the The Lilys (hot off their All Tomorrow's Parties appearance). Since then, the Born Ruffians, The Veils, Liam Finn, Plants and Animals, and Grizzly Bear side project Department of Eagles have graced the stage, along with Eugene Mirman, Michael Showalter, and Aziz Ansari bringing up the comedy end.

With room for everyone now that Union Hall's Secret Science Club will take place at this new venue, Bell House will continue with the popular Outsmarted: Music Trivia Night series, hosted by Indie Rock icons. And as for the house specialty, drinks will rotate on a seasonal basis, with a Daydream Nation cocktail (for fans of Sonic Youth) in the near future. Overall, the venue leaves little reason to not partake-- providing 3-hour-long 2-for-1 happy hours on weekdays and an ample host of cabs on 4th Avenue at all hours heading back into Manhattan.

The Bell House merits a standing ovation right out of the gate-- not only for the affable staff, large and well-lit (if only to show an uncharacteristic cleanliness) bathrooms, well-chosen soundtrack pumping in the front lounge, or even the stellar lineups offered in the back. It's the overall spirit of the place, derived from the creators who stuck out their necks with a vision to create one of the most welcoming spaces in the city from scratch. And the fact that patrons might bump into Carl Newman or David Cross is icing on the cake.

~Abbey Braden

The Bell House, 149 7th St, Brooklyn NY. (718) 643-6510


First and fifth photos by Sam Horine
Second, fourth, and sixth photos, courtesy of The Bell House
Third photo by Abbey Braden

November 04, 2008

La Roux
This Redhead is Not The Average Pop Star

Say the word “pop music” to most, and flashbacks of an overweight Britney, lip-synching badly to "Gimmie More," comes to mind. Luckily, La Roux-- a 20 year old singer from Brixton, South London, is here to erase all thoughts of every crappy pop song you’ve ever had to endure. Drop her name into a conversation with most, and they’ll probably scratch their heads in confusion, but La Roux is making her mark with industry insiders to become a blogger’s wet-dream—where her fame currently lies on electro-pop blogs and message boards frequented by acute-music nerds.

Her songs are like mini-soap-operas: full of drama and emotion, but that will all change soon, though, as she now shares the same management as Brit heavy-hitters Klaxons and her new single ‘Quicksand’ is making every club-hitting hipster go giddy.

How does it feel to be getting such positive attention?
I saw a feature on me in NME last week, but I did it ages ago, so it wasn't even like "Oh my God, I'm in NME."

Despite all the hype, a lot of people haven’t actually heard your music. Describe your sound for someone who's never heard you…
Pop. I don’t like describing the music, as it always puts you in a box.

Who inspires you to make music?
My album is about someone. I’d rather not say who, but that person inspires me to make music. I’m also inspired by listening to music I love.

How's the biz treating you so far?
Everyone has a different experience with "The Industry." Essentially, you have to treat it like a business, because that’s what it is. If you go into it blinded by lights, you will end up being just that. I must say, I am extremely blessed with the people I work with. They are all fucking good at what they do and let us lead the way. With a few exceptions, generally, if you have good ideas and good music you can have a great time. Without a doubt, it's the best job there is.

Where would you take someone on a 24-hour London tour?
I’d take them for a walk in Brockwell Park; we’d go see a film at the Ritzy Cinema in Brixton; then for several mojitos at “Mango Landing. It's just Brixtonites there. It's pretty small, but it's got a brilliant atmosphere and you always end up really drunk dancing with an old rasta. It's top.

Where are your favorite places to shop?
I hate shopping. I can never find anything I like. Kokon To Zai on Greek Street is good and there’s a shop on Brick Lane, I forget the name of it – but it has some weird Japanese designers and stuff. And Portobello Road-- I like those places because they have clothes that are completely unique. But, I put off shopping for as long as possible, because I tend to just get stressed.

How would you describe the music scene in Brixton?
Loads of reggae and then some really varied stuff at venues like Mass and Dogstar. Obviously, Brixton is home of the Academy (Brixton Academy), too.

And the nightlife?
The Effra is nice, because it's one of the only pubs that hasn't turned into a "gastro pub." But, I like house parties best because you can play whatever you want and no one disappears to have a fag!

Why should we believe in La Roux?
Because I’m ginger.

~Donald Crunk @ Styleslut

November 03, 2008

Shop Guide: Super Tuesday Events
Election Day Parties Across the Country

Super Tuesday is finally here, and all across the country, citizens are poised on the edge of their seats to know who will be the next president of the United States. Whether Obama or McCain steps into office in January ’09, this election will still prevail as one of the nation's most historic elections to date—in which the first African-American President or first female Vice President will take stage.

Once the polls close down, the lights go up at community centers, churches, restaurants, and bars, where people will crowd in to celebrate the official countdown to declaring our future 44th President. So, after casting your ballot, head over to one of the many events held across the nation where you can go eat, drink, and cheer for your candidate of choice:

Chicago
If you are lucky enough to score a ticket to Obama’s Campaign Election Night Party, held in the city where he served in the Senatorial office for 8 years— you’ll be in the company up to 70,000 supporters in Grant Park’s Hutchinson Field. While the free event will offer classic “American” hot dogs and pizza, unlike many other election parties, will purely consist of all-ages-friendly fun (meaning, no alcohol or live music). For last minute tickets for the event, interested participants can still register on the Democratic Party's campaign website in the hopes that they can close out the night with America’s possible newest President. And for the others looking to stay attune to the night’s developments, they can also check out the Election Night Viewing Party co-hosted by Metromix and the Chicago Tribune at the House of Blues' Back Porch Stage, for which $5 (with RSVP) gets you entry, a buffet, and drinks, and featured performances by DJ Sye Young, DJ Jem, the RichKiddz, and Cary Kanno of Abstract Giants.

Philadelphia
Celebrating Super Tuesday in style (and all for free) is Philadelphia Weekly's Election Night Party at the luxury Loews hotel, beginning at 8 pm, complete with live raffle, food-- compliments of the hotel’s in-house restaurant Sole Food, and drinks. For the university crowd, students can hop over to White Dog Cafe at 9 to watch live coverage on the big screen while enjoying the full menu selection (until 1 am) and politically-themed drink specials (served late until 2 am). And for the rowdy crowd who can’t sit still while the results broadcast, TwoOneFive Magazine, in conjunction with Cosmo Baker, will be hosting a Bowl for Pres event at North Bowl, beginning at 9 pm, for a 9 to 11 pm open bar, free hor d’oeuvres, auction prizes, and of course, bowling—all free for subscribers.

Boston
Bostonians looking to keep an eye on the score while partaking in customized election-day food and beverage can join in the festivities at the Four Seasons' Bristol Lounge, hosting a post-election party, complete with cheeky appetizers like the “Rockspublican running mate” (an Alaskan salmon dish, a la Sarah Palin), and Democratini (an Ahi tuna cooked Hawaiian style, as a nod to Obama’s roots), and similarly themed cocktails. But if you’re looking to laugh your way through the night (whether to stay in high spirits for your winning candidate or subdue your angst as your candidate lags behind), Improv Boston is hosting an election night event—including live music, food and drink, and constant coverage by comedians from Boston News Net, the city’s only live satire show. And finally, only a skip outside the city in Cambridge, the scenester crowd can join in on the Vote for Change Party at music venue T.T. the Bears for election coverage and live performances from Blow Up Dads and The Modern Elite.

Los Angeles
The leading publication in imaginary news coverage and political fodder, The Onion, and Scotch whiskey brand Dewars, will host a free, light-hearted event, complete with $3 drink specials, some of course offered in red and blue, to ring in the night with laughter at the Redwood Bar and Grill. While for those looking to socialize with the attractive Hollywood crowd while they sneak glances at the election score card can mingle at free events including CineSpace’s Election Day Mixer (which anticipates an appearance from Katie Couric) or the Edison’s elite “I Voted” Party.

Washington, DC
While impromptu election night events in the nation’s capital will more than likely pop up in many downtown pubs, one of the more eventful options could be just outside the city in neighboring Arlington, Virginia, where Arlington Cinema N Drafthouse will host a free event where audiences can view up-to-the-minute coverage broadcast from 4 stations on an actual movie screen, for full cinematic effect. And in other free events complete with food and drink, the Sixth & I Historic Synagogue, in addition to having cardboard cutouts of both candidates for photo-ops with your choice, will also provide political commentary from Georgetown and GWU professors to offer insight into the night’s outcome.

New York City
Offering events throughout all 5 of its boroughs, the selection of Super Tuesday parties has an option for every crowd and political affiliation. Beginning with a more upscale, 21-and-over event, Grand Life, in conjunction with StyleRepublic.com will host a free Election Night Gala at downtown’s Tribeca Grand Hotel, beginning at 10 pm, with the DJ stylings of Surface 2 Air Gordon Hull. Tim Gunn, of "Project Runway" and "Guide to Style" fame, will also host the New York Gay Election Night Party at the LGBT Community Center (beginning at 6:30 pm), which will include a raffle, food, and drink while they project the night’s updates. Those looking for a more casual, out-of-Manhattan Super Tuesday experience, can venture to Astoria’s Bohemian Hall & Beer Garden Election Day Bash, with ballot bashing starting at 6 pm and Comedyland later performing in the Beer Cellar. And finally, Brooklinites can partake in the Red & Blue Party (doors at 6 pm) at The Bell House, the new venue from Union Hall's owners. Hosted by Eugene Mirman, food and drink options will include all-night $4 drink specials, homemade red and blue cupcakes, in addition to papusas, tacos, and huaraches, courtesy of Red Hook Vendors, and a live performance by Weezer cover band The Blue Album Group, who will play the entire set list from the band’s classic Blue Album.

November 02, 2008

A Calling of the Wild
Taxidermy Artist Melissa Dixson on Her Animalistic Art

Seeing the 5-foot-something, small-framed blonde Melissa Dixson, one would never expect that her profession of choice involves handling electric drills and animal carcasses. But the 30-year-old Pratt graduate and former painter, who works by day in interior design for a luxury textile company, can now count herself one of New York City’s exclusive, and perhaps only, taxidermists.

Having just gotten her start in the art two years ago, Dixson learned through a combination of self-instruction with “Introduction to Taxidermy” manuals and CDs and later attended the Second Nature School of Taxidermy in Montana. And while she may have been a child living a sheltered life in the indoor comforts of suburban Washington, DC— afraid of cats, dogs, bugs, and even grass— her recent career path shows her crossing over to a fascination with the wild side. She now lives and works out of her Brooklyn studio, shared with her artist husband and cat— as well as a host of creatures, from small chickens and foxes to exotic zebras and mountain cats, adorning her apartment walls— and recently displayed her work at the renowned SoHo design store, Moss.

psychoPEDIA joined Dixson in her studio to talk credibility, criticism, and dreaming of the pastoral:

What do you think is the image of taxidermists in general?
I think society views taxidermists as coots who work in their studio and hack up an animal and then butter their bread with the same knife.

Do you see your work as different from a hunter who’d display it as a trophy of his accomplishments?
The ultimate goal is the same. I want to do an accurate reproduction of an animal. I’m not interested in the movement coming out of Minnesota right now—the Rogue Taxidermists— who take different animals and sew them together to make jackalopes, or two headed squirrels. I want to make taxidermy available to people in the city that don’t want sticks and leaves in their homes, like the things I see in middle America.

As a perpetual urbanite, have other taxidermists questioned your credibility?
I just went to the New York Taxidermy Convention and competition, where I’m the only one from New York City. They will ask, “Can you do taxidermy in Brooklyn?” because I don’t have the same reference. I can’t just look outside my window or have a trail cam. That’s why I go to farms—where I can stick my finger in a deer’s ear and see how it turns—and that makes my work better. A lot of them don’t get what I’m trying to do, but I feel like taxidermy can be something precious and valuable to live with, whether or not you killed the animal yourself. If you were to have a fox in your house next to your sofa, that’s a piece of wildlife that softens up the city.

Any criticism from humane societies?
Some people called Moss angrily saying they’d never shop there again. There was also a jewelry designer who shows there that threatened to pull her line. Meanwhile, she’s wearing calf-skin Italian boots. I understand it’s not for everyone, and I don’t even make a comment on whether what I’m doing is humane or right. Before I started learning about it, the idea of killing animals bothered me more than it does now, because I know that hunters pride themselves in clean kills. If you do injure something and it doesn’t die, you have to follow it—that’s the law. Hunting licenses are thousands of dollars, and every bullet is taxed. All of that money goes back into wildlife preservation. In the city, we’re so far removed from wildlife. We don’t realize the people that love the wildlife are the ones using it.

Do you see owning a piece of taxidermy the same as owning a fur coat?
The fur for stoles are farmed. I only get materials from licensed trappers or taxidermists who make their living from trapping, and not farming animals. Milk cows have horrible lives. Farmed chickens never get to move. But walking down the street drinking a milkshake doesn’t bring the same kind of ire. I really believe in ethical farming practices, but I also support hunter’s rights.

How do you feel about gun control?
I’m not a voracious, meat-eating, NRA gun-toting Republican. I’m very liberal on a lot of social issues. With the upcoming election, if gun laws were to change, that would change the way I operate. The Supreme Court just voted it unlawful to have a handgun in Washington, DC. I’m glad, but at the same time, I support being able to protect yourself. I can’t choose a side, because I would be a hypocrite. I’m kind of a hypocrite already, because I don’t shoot and eat my own meals. I’m scavenging off someone else’s discards.

Were you always comfortable handling the remains of dead animals?
When I first started, it grossed me out. I got a little squirrel frozen in the mail, and I just stared at it, not knowing how to attack it. Once I started looking at it as a project, it was no different than cutting up a turkey or a chicken for a meal. I especially liked doing the Yorkie puppy, an 8-week-old that died of hypergylycemia and was donated to me by a breeder, and a fawn that was stillborn which I got from a farm. Its back legs were totally broken and died as soon as it hit the ground. The little guys that didn’t have a chance become a labor of love for me. I feel like I’m giving it a chance of being seen in some way where it wouldn’t be otherwise.

What are the strangest requests you’ve gotten from customers?
I get calls from people that want me to stuff their dog. I always turn them down. Except for one time, there was a young girl. She liked taxidermy and had a pet rat that died. I could tell that she knew what she was getting and what to expect. But I get calls from ladies on Long Island grieving because they found out their dog has two days to live. Stuffing somebody’s pet is kind of barbaric. You skin the pet, but you still have the carcass. At the same time, the fawn and dog never had a life, so I became attached to them, and it’s probably not my best work because of it. I was too worried about doing them justice. I’m interested in making the animals look better in death than they ever did in life, idealized and almost a caricature of the animal itself. You can’t bring life back to it, but you can sure try to tint your resin to get that eyelid to look right on a deer.

How do you think people view buying a piece of taxidermy?
Probably like owning a piece of art. That’s what’s interesting about selling it at Moss, because you’re buying it with a Hella Jongerius vase or a piece of Nymphenburg porcelain. I see them as priceless objects someone made-– a craft just like making perfect little porcelain busts of Marie Antoinette.

Could you see taxidermy evolving as a form of trendy home décor?
American taxidermy for the most part is tacky. But I look more at the type in old hunting lodges in Germany. I have been noticing a lot of Belgian and Dutch designs using antlers and bones, and I think that’s a fad. But I’ve also noticed in shelter magazines, things like zebra skin rugs with modern furniture. I want to present [my work] in a minimalist way.

Are you more connected to nature since you’ve been producing your work?
Every time my husband and I go somewhere, we go on hikes or to farms to get reference pictures. We’re always doing something with wildlife when we get out of the city. I get something out of it for work, but I also feel I’ve had an experience that will change my approach in the studio. And I still fantasize every day about buying a place out in the country and raising a herd of goats and renting them out to eat the kudzu.

~Leann Peterson