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August 13, 2009

Beauty Road-Test: KO Nailpolish
Paint it Black

A spiked black-leather band around the wrist or neck -- that was all it took to freak the heck out of your average New Yorker in late '70s, early '80s. We laughed at the pet-shop owner’s scowls as we appraised the fit of a choker and spiked dog collars on one another, adding to their dismay with an occasional woof woof. There were no “Punk Outfitters.” We got our combat boots from Army surplus stores, and the rest of our paraphernalia we made ourselves.

Back in them olden days, the desire was for a look that made people shudder, or at least notified clearly in no uncertain terms that we were not one of “Them”! We were not part of their system of conformity. Everyday household items became a means to expressing these sentiments. Our rage combined with our fashion, and safety-pins that had once held up our diapers were now appropriated as accessories to hold together clothes or an earlobe. No-income sensibilities found creative usage for sharpies beyond tagging up LOUD FAST RULEZ on subway walls. A quick scribble on fingernails was decorative but did not accommodate a manicured pampered look. These nails were Mad Max’ish FLAT BLACK, no glitz, no gloss. And for a change-up, painting WhiteOut was the perfect antidote to those preppy girls being pretty in pink. For spice, a bit of yellow highlighter leant an ambiance of, “we will survive in the gutter better than you yuppie scum!”

Eventually, black nailpolish became the Vogue must have, but for us early punks who got our asses kicked for daring to sport dry marker on their nails, seeing models pose in Chanel’s black-polish felt somehow heathen! But we also knew, they still didn’t get it right. Our nails weren't a mirror for the soul -- all shimmer and shine with their glossy counterfeit black. Our ink was the certitude of tenebrous bleakness. Ours was the dead end we felt was offered us -- as the Sex Pistols gospel held it, “No Future For You!”

But then, something happens if you don't hit an early extermination. Suddenly you find yourself in your 30s or 40s and pink doesn't look so bad anymore. Actually it’s kinda cute. Maybe. And coating your nails with sharpies just doesn't have the same Raison D'Etre when you’re helping your child with homework and preparing school lunches. And you start to care that walking around with the scent of WhiteOut on your fingers might make other parents think you are a low-rent glue sniffer.

When my son was five and his new playground pals gathered round me to point at the piercings in my nose, eyebrow, under chin, and around my ear, and inquire loudly why I had metal in my face, the last bit of visual punk in me stepped aside. I always thought I’d raise a punk rock kid, but this is not how my punk ethic needed to express itself -- humiliating my son.

I have had only two manicures in my life, when it was a gift from someone else. I found it painful to sit and have someone I didn't know hold my hand with the touch of a loved one. They didn't want to converse, they wanted me to soak my hands in the pretend Palmolive, act pampered, and shut up. I didn't dig any of the colors they had on their wall for me to pick either. I suppressed the desire to ask for the marker that the receptionist was using to label plastic bottles. I just did cliche red and felt like a harlot sell-out.

Then one day my friend, the iconic makeup artist Mike Potter, pops on me that he is making nailpolish, and before I can sputter, “Et Tu, Bruté,” he pulls out what looks like a small flashlight. He says nothing, just takes my hand in his as a beloved would, twists the top, and the magic wand is painting. And it's a Proust Madeleine moment, I was a teen living by wits in New York City with street punk on my finger. I look up with him, tears welling in my eyes. He smiles, the arch grin of Gene Wilder’s Willy Wonka: I make the impossible possible. This is necromancy in a bottle -- pure flatte black is here! It even applies like the spongy sharpie head, uniform, no brush strokes. It’s so innovative that if your nails were painted with this stuff and Matisse happened to time travel and was strolling by a café where you happened to be nursing a macchiato, well, he would stop dead in his tracks and do a portrait of the being who had managed to display gouache on, as the dictionary calls it, “the flattish horny part on the upper surface of the tip of each finger.”

It wasn't a stunner to find out Potter was christening his line K.O. -- as in Knock Out. It was Rock'em Sock'em Robots to me, I was floored.

And then it got better.

He took out another flashlight. He took my other hand. I closed my eyes.

I felt the vague dampness glaze my fingernail. After I opened my eyes the tears jumped ship and gushed down my cheeks.

“OH, oh! It’s WhiteOut! With highlighter mixed in" -- but not the look of yellow snow. It’s called Powder and it glows, but in a matte way.

“Who can take a rainbow...”

The punches kept ah’coming. He did my pinkies in Liberty-– the color of an old school oxidized penny or our lady of the harbor.

The sound of flip-flops, the pungent scent of chlorine filled my nostrils as the color of damp cement was spread on my middle fingers, it is called Flatte Top.

The Coup De Grace hit my toenails, red of the cheap splatter film color, getting its point across, vivid but no gratuitous shine. It is fittingly named after its inspiration, Karen O of the Yeah Yeah Yeahs.

For the first time I have given a gift of PINK nailpolish to a grown woman. But with KO’s Calamine, I did not have the icky feeling that I was colluding against the feminist movement. It’s a decoration in remembrance of things past -- when that pigment of red mixed with a lot of white covered all mosquito bites. I could feel my momma dabbing it on with a cotton ball and uselessly admonishing, “Don’t scratch.”

With his his trunk-sized Louis Vuitton suitcase of makeup and brushes spread before him, Mike Potter conjures legends. He is the artist that created the famous Hedwig look for the film Hedwig and the Angry Inch. He’s the one who makes the lives of photoshop experts at Vogue a lot simpler. The only problem with being a patron of Potter is that there's no way you could ever try this at home. Potter doesn't just apply makeup, he transforms you. “How can I bottle you?!” was the constant plea his clients would pout, knowing they'd return to postmidnight Cinderellas.

Somehow Mike Potter found a way to bottle the reconstructing of who we are through our memories. I look at my nails, and it is the richness of printing ink dried. It is a teen girl encountering the world with the same passion that black absorbs in the universe and hides within. It was punk, it was a communal sense of hope within despair, a reminder that anything is possible. We will be heard. All captured in a bottle that looks like a flashlight.

~Laura Albert

August 09, 2009

The Breakfast Club
Rickie & Melvin on Teamwork, Radio & Underwear

Whoever said that two heads are better than one definitely had the right idea. Proof: The two-headed media monster that is Rickie & Melvin have been consistently terrorizing the world of U.K. radio with their anarchic humor. The comedic pair currently host the popular “Breakfast Show with Rickie & Melvin” on London’s Kiss FM, and have now joined the esteemed list of featured personalities over at MTV UK. We spoke to Ricky about how the two of them met and why he thinks their show’s so popular:

Give us the story of how you two met…
We first met at university. All the new students were taken to a local club. I remember thinking that I had to make as many friends in my first year as possible, if I wanted to have a good time. I just walked up to Melvin and introduced myself. That was 11 years ago and we've been friends ever since.

Let us know more about your new show on MTV…
Our new show MTV Digs is a continuity show. It’s a series of short studio-based links of banter, tomfoolery, and general chat. It’s on every afternoon on MTV-1 between the hours of 4-7pm. It's designed to create interaction with our audience and give the channel more faces and personalities for their audience to relate to.

How long has your radio show been running?
Our current radio show is in its second year, but we've been on KISS for three years. We started on the weekend breakfast show, because it was a good time slot for us to learn our trade, without causing too much damage to the station’s listening figures! After 10 months of doing that, we were asked to make the step up to the weekday breakfast show.

Why do you think your show is so popular?
The reason I think people listen to our show is because we play a lot of music, but we also have a lot of fun during our links. It's literally a group of friends on the radio listening to music, taking the mick out of each other and having a laugh. I think people buy into the fact that Melvin and I are genuine friends and have been for a long time.

Which do you prefer doing, TV or radio?
I don't love one more than the other. They're two different disciplines, which I think complement each other. Trying to master each of them ultimately helps us to become more than just presenters. Hopefully, we’ll end up being good broadcasters.

Who is your favourite duo of all time and why?
My favourite duo of all time would have to be my Mum and Dad. They’ve supported me for years, when I was just some kid who said he wanted to be a presenter. They never once told me I couldn’t do it.

How come you guys make such a good team?
I reckon we make a good team because we're friends just doing stuff we love doing. It doesn't feel like work when we’re presenting together. It feels more like people are peering into our lives and there just happens to be a microphone or camera there.

Tell us the one thing you believe two people should never share…
People should never share underwear! That’s just nasty.

What’s next for Ricky & Melvin?
To get everyone to know which one of us is which, because we look so similar.

~Donald Crunk

August 06, 2009

Denim Road-Test: Bzen
Fashion Designer Rebecca Turbow's Monochromatic Moment

Many fashion-conscious folks would be resistant to going gray, finding it too safe. Not New York City-based designer Rebecca Turbow, who has designed an all gray line of clothing called… Safe. This spring, the designer showed her Fall/Winter 2009 collection during New York Fashion Week at the downtown Moeller Snow Gallery. The models stood on white cubes, donning the mod clothing done in all gray (with a bit of black thrown in).

When it comes to personal style, Turbow practices what she preaches. For years she has only worn monochromatic color combinations, even going as far as dying all her clothes and painting the bottoms of her shoes. Therefore, she was a perfect fit for our latest denim road-test. To wit, we asked Rebecca to test out a pair of Bzen's "Nathalie" tapered jeans. We thought this might meet her design expectations, since this Montreal-based premium denim line produces 100% hand-stitched, hand-sanded products. Constructed of black Japanese fabric, the style is washed down until it reaches a soft gray color: a perfect fit for Turbow’s own wardrobe. We asked her 10 questions:

Tell me about Safe.
The original concept of the line is about clothing and how it keeps you safe.

What’s your latest collection about?
It’s a little more grown-up, more sophisticated. I was calling it “’80s prep school.” It’s got a ‘80s vibe mixed with the ‘60s-mod era.

For a long time you only wore the colors green and white. And now you only wear the color gray. Explain?
It started about nine years ago, and I was really drawn to this shade of green. I started dying everything that color, and before I knew it, everything was green. It wasn’t even intentional, it just sort of happened, and then I became the girl who wore all green and white. Then last year, I needed a change in my life and I switched to gray. It’s great because I got to look forward to a whole new color.

What did you think of the Bzen jeans?
I think they are great. The color is really good. I’m really into cool grays, and these are a really nice cool gray in a medium shade.

Where did you wear your new Bzen?
I wore them all day doing errands, and I ended up going out all night in them as well! I went to a birthday party at the bowling alley Lucky Strike. Then I went to the Beatrice Inn, and I was there all night!

What did you pair with the denim?
I wore a silk, sort of oversize T-shirt, from my Fall 09 line. It almost acts like a dress because it’s pretty big and long. It looked really cute, because the jeans are really tight and skinny. Also, I wore my favorite little leather scrunch boots.

How did they fit and feel?
I love the fit and they look awesome! And they are really skinny, which I really like. My only issue is the waist was so low on them that they cut into my hipbone, which was kind of uncomfortable. But, I definitely got a ton of compliments …

Do you ever feel stifled by only wearing gray?
It can be so difficult. I’ve been trying to find winter boots this year and it’s impossible! It’s so much harder than you think it would be.

~Meredith Craig de Pietro